The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Part 9

8 merguez sausages 3 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 3 or 4 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and pepper 4 eggs Fry the sausages in the oil in a large skillet, turning them over for 1-2 minutes. Add the garlic, and when the aroma rises, add the tomatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook for about 15 minutes, until the sauce is reduced.

Break in the eggs and let them cook, whole, in the sauce.

Serve hot with good bread.

Variation In Tunisia they add - teaspoon harissa (see page 464) to the tomato sauce. teaspoon harissa (see page 464) to the tomato sauce.

Fried Eggs with Chicken Livers Serves 4 8 ounces chicken livers 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Salt and pepper teaspoon ground cinnamon 4 eggs Toss the chicken livers briefly in hot b.u.t.ter or oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season with salt, pepper, and cinnamon. The livers must be brown outside but still pink and juicy inside and slightly undercooked.

Break the eggs over the livers, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook until set. You can leave the eggs whole or scramble them slightly until creamy.

Eggah bi Ba.s.sal Onion and Herb Omelet Serves 2 * A simple and delicious snack, it can also be served as an elegant appetizer (see variation). * A simple and delicious snack, it can also be served as an elegant appetizer (see variation).

1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 3 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 4 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 1 tablespoon chopped mint Salt and pepper Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil until soft and golden. Mix with the eggs and the other ingredients.

Heat the remaining oil in a preferably nonstick frying pan. Pour in the egg mixture and cook over medium heat. As soon as the bottom sets, put under the broiler and cook the other side until the top is firm and lightly browned.

Serve hot or cold.

Variation You can do tiny omelets like little pancakes to serve as finger food. Make a larger quant.i.ty and pour by the tablespoon, in batches, into the frying pan, turning over to brown the other side.

Eggah bi Gebna Cheese Omelet Serves 6 * This simple herby omelet is particularly delicious. Use a good-quality feta cheese, or try another cheese. It can serve as a main dish or an appetizer. * This simple herby omelet is particularly delicious. Use a good-quality feta cheese, or try another cheese. It can serve as a main dish or an appetizer.

6 ounces feta cheese, mashed with a fork ounces feta cheese, mashed with a fork 8 eggs, lightly beaten 6 scallions, finely sliced 4 or 5 sprigs of mint, finely chopped 1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Pepper 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Lightly beat together all the ingredients except the oil in a bowl.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large nonstick skillet. When it begins to sizzle, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the bottom sets.

Dribble the remaining oil over the top of the omelet and cook under the broiler for a few minutes, until lightly browned. Serve hot or cold, cut in wedges like a cake.

Eggah bi Betingan Eggplant Omelet Serves 2 * This is one of my favorites. * This is one of my favorites.

2 eggplants, weighing about 1 pound total 2 eggs, lightly beaten Salt and pepper Pinch of nutmeg 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Roast the eggplants under the broiler and mash them in a colander so as to get rid of the juices (see page 63). Then beat with the eggs and add salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

In a preferably nonstick skillet, heat the oil and pour in the egg mixture. Cook for a few minutes on low heat, until the bottom begins to set and feels loose from the skillet when you shake the pan. Put under the broiler and cook until the top is firm and lightly colored. Alternatively, turn the omelet over by slipping it onto a plate and dropping it back, upside down, in the skillet to cook the other side.

Variations For 6 servings, fry 1 chopped onion in 2 tablespoons of oil till golden, add 5 peeled and chopped tomatoes, and cook for 15 minutes, until reduced to a thick sauce. Mix with the mashed eggplants and 4 eggs and proceed as above.

For 6 servings, fry 1 chopped onion in 2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil until golden, and add 2 crushed garlic cloves. Deep-fry briefly or broil 2 eggplants cut into cubes (see page 63). Drain on paper towels, then mix with 4 lightly beaten eggs, season with salt and pepper. Then proceed as above.

Eggah bi Kousa Zucchini Omelet Serves 2 3 zucchini (about 1 pound total) Salt 1 large onion, chopped 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Juice of lemon Pepper Pinch of nutmeg or allspice Trim the zucchini and boil in salted water until very soft, then drain. Chop them and mash them to a pulp in a colander so as to get rid of the juices.

Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil until golden and mix with the zucchini, the eggs, and the rest of the ingredients except the remaining oil.

Heat the remaining oil in a preferably nonstick skillet and pour in the egg mixture. Cook over medium heat until the bottom sets. Then put under the broiler and cook until lightly browned and firm on top.

Serve hot or cold.

Variation You can do tiny omelets like little pancakes to serve as finger food. Pour the mixture by the tablespoon in the skillet and turn over to brown the other side. Do them in batches.

Eggah bi Eish wa Kousa Bread and Zucchini Omelet Serves 6 * Serve this as a main dish with salads and yogurt. * Serve this as a main dish with salads and yogurt.

1 medium-sized onion, chopped 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 pound zucchini cut into V-i-inch slices 6 eggs 3 slices good country bread, crusts removed, soaked in a little milk or water 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped mint Salt and pepper In a large skillet, saute the onion in 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil until soft and just beginning to color. Add the zucchini slices, and saute, stirring and turning them over, until soft and lightly colored.

Beat the eggs and add the soaked bread, squeezed dry, crumbling it in your hand. Stir in the fried onion and the zucchini, and the chopped parsley and mint. Season lightly with salt and pepper and mix well.

Heat the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil in the cleaned skillet and pour in the egg mixture. Cook gently over very low heat for about 20 minutes, until the eggs are set. Dry and brown the top lightly under a broiler; or invert the omelet by slipping it first onto a plate and carefully dropping it back upside down into the skillet to cook the other side.

Eggah bel Kharshouf Artichoke Omelet Serves 2-4 * An elegant and tasty omelet. Use the frozen artichoke bottoms from Egypt which you can find in Middle Eastern stores, or hearts, which are more common in supermarkets. * An elegant and tasty omelet. Use the frozen artichoke bottoms from Egypt which you can find in Middle Eastern stores, or hearts, which are more common in supermarkets.

7 ounces frozen artichoke bottoms or hearts ( of 14-ounce package), defrosted Salt 4 eggs Pepper 1 clove garlic, crushed A few sprigs of dill, finely chopped A squeeze of lemon juice 1-2 tablespoons olive oil Boil the artichoke bottoms or hearts in salted water to cover for a few minutes only, until tender, then drain. Chop and mash them, removing any tough fibers from the hearts.

Lightly beat the eggs with a little salt and pepper, the garlic, dill, and lemon juice, then mix in the mashed artichokes.

Heat the oil in a nonstick skillet, pour in the egg mixture, and cook over low heat with the lid on until the bottom sets. Put under the broiler and cook the top until lightly colored.

Serve hot or cold.

Variation For a fava bean omelet, replace the artichoke bottoms with pound fresh or frozen fava beans. I use a skinned frozen variety that you can find in Middle Eastern stores.

Eggah bi Korrat Leek Omelet Serves 4-6 * This is an Egyptian favorite. * This is an Egyptian favorite.

1 pound leeks 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or extra-virgin olive oil 1 or 2 teaspoons sugar Juice of lemon Salt and pepper 4 eggs Trim off the roots of the leeks and cut off the tough green tops. Make a slash along the leeks to the center to be able to wash carefully between the leaves. Cut into thin slices. Put the leeks in a large pan with 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter or oil. Add sugar, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Put the lid on and let the leeks stew in their own juice for 20 minutes, or until very soft, stirring occasionally.

Beat the eggs lightly with a little salt, then stir in the leeks.

Heat the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil in the cleaned skillet and pour in the leek mixture. Cook, covered with a lid, over low heat until the bottom sets. Then put under the broiler to cook the top until firm and lightly colored.

Serve hot or cold.

Variation Instead of sauteing, the leeks can be cut into large pieces, boiled in salted water until soft, and drained. Press the water out and chop in the food processor, then mix with the eggs.

Maacouda bi Batata Potato and Parsley Omelet Serves 4 * This Tunisian specialty is easy to make and quite delicious. * This Tunisian specialty is easy to make and quite delicious.

1 pound mealy potatoes, peeled Salt 1 large onion, chopped 3 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 3 eggs, lightly beaten cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Pepper Boil the potatoes in salted water, then drain and mash them. Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil till soft and golden, stirring occasionally.

Beat the eggs into the potatoes, then stir in the fried onion and the parsley, and season with salt and pepper.

Heat the remaining oil in a preferably nonstick skillet and pour in the potato mixture. Cook, covered, over low heat until the bottom sets. Then put under the broiler to cook the top until firm and lightly colored.

Serve hot or cold.

Variations For a Persian version, kuku-ye sibzamini kuku-ye sibzamini, use 6 chopped scallions or a bunch of chives instead of the fried onions.

For a potato ojja ojja, fry the onion till golden, add 4 peeled and chopped tomatoes and the thinly sliced potatoes, and cook until the potatoes are soft. Then stir in the lightly beaten eggs and cook until set.

Tajin Sibnakh Haricot Bean and Spinach Omelet Serves 4 * In Tunisia, where egg dishes are ubiquitous, they call this a * In Tunisia, where egg dishes are ubiquitous, they call this a tajin tajin because it is cooked in a clay dish of that name. It can be eaten hot or cold. because it is cooked in a clay dish of that name. It can be eaten hot or cold.

1 pound spinach 1 onion, chopped 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons tomato paste 3 eggs A 15-ounce can haricot or cannellini beans, drained cup grated Gruyere cheese Salt and pepper Wash the spinach and only remove the stalks if thick and tough. Put the leaves in a large pan over low heat with the lid on and only the water that clings to them. They will crumple into a soft ma.s.s within a minute. Drain and press all the water out in a colander, then cut into ribbons.

Fry the onion in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil until golden, then stir in the tomato paste.

Lightly beat the eggs in a bowl. Add the spinach, onion, drained beans, and Gruyere. Season with salt and pepper and mix well.

Heat the remaining oil in a preferably nonstick frying pan and pour the mixture in. Cook over low heat, with the lid on, for 8-10 minutes, until the eggs set at the bottom. Then put under the broiler to dry and firm the top.

Kuku-ye Sab si Spinach and Herb Omelet with Walnuts and Raisins Serves 6 * The traditional Iranian New Year's Day specialty is made with a number of green herbs and leaves. Its greenness is a symbol of fruitfulness in the coming year, bringing prosperity and happiness. Any favored herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, dill, chervil, tarragon, chives, and cilantro, may be used. * The traditional Iranian New Year's Day specialty is made with a number of green herbs and leaves. Its greenness is a symbol of fruitfulness in the coming year, bringing prosperity and happiness. Any favored herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, dill, chervil, tarragon, chives, and cilantro, may be used.

6-8 eggs 4 ounces spinach, shredded 8 scallions, chopped - cup mixed chopped fresh herbs 3 tablespoons chopped walnuts (optional) 2 tablespoons raisins (optional) Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Lightly beat the eggs with the rest of the ingredients except the b.u.t.ter or oil.

Grease an ovenproof dish (about 10 inches) with b.u.t.ter or oil and pour in the egg mixture. Bake in a preheated 325F oven for 45 minutes, covering the dish for the first 25 minutes, until the eggs are firm with a golden crust on top. Alternatively, cook the kuku kuku in a large preferably nonstick skillet. When the eggs have set on the bottom, brown the top under a hot broiler. in a large preferably nonstick skillet. When the eggs have set on the bottom, brown the top under a hot broiler.

Serve hot or cold as a first course, accompanied by yogurt.

Variation Use lettuce leaves instead of spinach, and barberries (a sharp red berry) instead of raisins, and flavor with h h teaspoon cinnamon and a pinch of turmeric. teaspoon cinnamon and a pinch of turmeric.

Eggah bi Sabaneh Spinach Omelet Serves 6 * Here is a simple Egyptian omelet with a pleasant texture, to serve as a snack. * Here is a simple Egyptian omelet with a pleasant texture, to serve as a snack.

1 pound spinach, fresh or frozen 6 eggs Salt and pepper Pinch of nutmeg A 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained (optional) 1 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Wash the fresh spinach thoroughly and drain it. Put it in a pan with no added water and the lid on, and cook over low heat until the leaves crumple to a soft ma.s.s. Drain and press the excess water out. Some people chop the leaves, but I don't. If you are using frozen spinach, allow to defrost, and press the water out.

Beat the eggs lightly with the spinach. Mix well, adding salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and the drained chickpeas if you like. Heat the b.u.t.ter or oil in a preferably nonstick skillet and pour in the egg mixture. Cook, covered, over low heat until the bottom sets. Then put under the broiler and cook until the top is firm and lightly browned.

Serve hot or cold.

Variation Add 3 peeled and chopped tomatoes, sauteed in a little oil with 2 or 3 crushed garlic cloves.

Eggah bi Lahma Meat Eggah Serves 6 * This substantial omelet can be served as a main dish accompanied by salad. * This substantial omelet can be served as a main dish accompanied by salad.

1 large onion, chopped 4 tablespoons vegetable oil pound lean ground beef or veal Salt and pepper teaspoon allspice 1 teaspoon c.u.min 6 eggs V4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 large potato, chopped or grated (optional) In a large, preferably nonstick skillet, fry the onion in 3 tablespoons oil until golden. Add the ground meat, crush it with a fork, and stir and turn it over for about 8-10 minutes, until it changes color, adding salt and pepper and the spices.

Beat the eggs lightly. Drain off any fat through a sieve from the meat and onion, then add them to the eggs along with the parsley. Add the potato, if you like, and mix well.

Heat the remaining oil in the cleaned skillet. Pour in the egg mixture, reduce the heat to as low as possible, and cover with a lid. Cook for about 20 minutes, until the eggs have set and only the top is still runny. Put the frying pan under a hot broiler until the top is firm and lightly browned.

Turn out and serve hot or cold, cut into wedges like a cake.

Variation Use a boiled and mashed potato instead of a chopped or grated one.

Eggah bi Ferakh wa Rishta Chicken and Pasta Cake Serves 6 * Cardamom gives a delicate Arab touch to this substantial Egyptian omelet which can be served as a main dish. * Cardamom gives a delicate Arab touch to this substantial Egyptian omelet which can be served as a main dish.

2 quarts chicken stock (see page 143) (or you may use 2 bouillon cubes) Salt 12 ounces dry tagliatelle, broken with your hands into small pieces 4 eggs, lightly beaten 12 ounces cooked and boned chicken, cut into small pieces 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds or powder Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Bring the chicken stock to the boil, adding a little salt. Put in the noodles or tagliatelle and cook until only just tender, then drain.

Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Add the chicken, noodles, and cardamom seeds or powder. Season with salt and pepper, and mix well.

Heat the b.u.t.ter or oil in a large, preferably nonstick skillet. Pour in the egg mixture and cook over very low heat for about 25 minutes, or until it is set and only the top is runny. Dry and brown the top under a hot broiler. Turn out onto a serving dish, and serve garnished with chopped parsley.

Variation Alternatively, you can bake the dish in a preheated 350F oven for about 30-45 minutes, or until firm and lightly browned on top.

Ojja bil Merguez Scrambled Eggs with Potatoes and Spicy Sausages Serves 6 * A hot and peppery Tunisian omelet. * A hot and peppery Tunisian omelet.

3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 medium potatoes, cubed or diced 1-2 tablespoons tomato paste teaspoon harissa (see page 464), or 1 teaspoon paprika and a good pinch of ground chili pepper 4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 teaspoons crushed caraway seed 6 small merguez or other spicy sausages, sliced 6 eggs, lightly beaten Salt Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the potatoes and saute lightly. Add tomato paste, the harissa diluted in a drop of water or the paprika and chili pepper, the garlic, and the caraway seeds. Pour in just enough water to cover, and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes. Add the sausages and cook for a further 15 minutes. Let the liquid evaporate over high heat.

Pour in the eggs, add salt, and cook, stirring, until the eggs set to a soft, creamy consistency.

Serve hot.