The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Part 10

French-Style Omelets with an Oriental Flavor Serves 2 * Make a plain French omelet with 4 eggs: Beat the eggs lightly, and season very lightly with salt and pepper. Heat a skillet (about 10 inches). Add a tablespoon of b.u.t.ter and shake the pan to allow it to run all over the base. When it starts to sizzle, but before it has had a chance to brown, pour in the eggs, stir a little, and when they start to set on the bottom, lift the edge up with a fork and tip the pan to allow the liquid from the top to run underneath. As soon as the eggs are no longer liquid but still very moist on top, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the prepared filling on one half of the omelet and fold the other half over the filling. Serve at once. * Make a plain French omelet with 4 eggs: Beat the eggs lightly, and season very lightly with salt and pepper. Heat a skillet (about 10 inches). Add a tablespoon of b.u.t.ter and shake the pan to allow it to run all over the base. When it starts to sizzle, but before it has had a chance to brown, pour in the eggs, stir a little, and when they start to set on the bottom, lift the edge up with a fork and tip the pan to allow the liquid from the top to run underneath. As soon as the eggs are no longer liquid but still very moist on top, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the prepared filling on one half of the omelet and fold the other half over the filling. Serve at once.

Fillings for a 4-Egg Omelet Chicken Livers. Cut 3 chicken livers into small pieces, and saute gently in a little b.u.t.ter for 2 or 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a pinch of ground cinnamon.

Onions and Tomatoes. Saute chopped onion in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil until softened. Add 1 or 2 crushed garlic cloves. When the garlic just begins to color, add 3 skinned and chopped tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, or a pinch of ground chili pepper or chili flakes, and cook gently until the tomatoes are almost reduced to a pulp.

Spinach. Frozen spinach (defrosted), either leaf or chopped, will do. Fry 1 crushed garlic clove with -1 teaspoon ground coriander in 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil. Add about 2 ounces spinach and cook for a few minutes with the lid on until softened. Season with salt and pepper.

Fish and Seafood SAMAK.

"A remedy for a man who is 'tied' by his enemies, and made impotent. He must go to a quack, who will say: 'There is something written against you that has been eaten by a fish in the sea. I can release you from your trouble by obtaining the fish for a fee!' The quack finds a fish, writes a curse, perhaps on a piece of bread, puts it in the mouth of the fish, and delivers it to the patient. The latter will be cured."

FROM AN ANCIENT BOOK OF EGYPTIAN FOLK MEDICINE.

One of my great-uncles was a kabbalist to whom people came with all kinds of problems, such as impotence and sickness. He cured them with amulets and tiny scrolls of paper which he hung round their necks. Sometimes he got a fish to swallow his magic words and threw it back into the water. In some parts of the Middle East, fish is still believed to have magical properties. Tunisians in particular-who are the greatest fish-eaters-believe it to be highly beneficial. The day after their wedding,couples are encouraged to step over a large fish as an a.s.surance of happiness and a protection from evil. Today, the shape of a fish has become a symbol. Embroidered on material and carved in metal, it is believed to ward off the evil eye. In Egypt, one felt compelled to eat fish for the first meal in a new home. In Persia, fish is eaten on New Year's Eve to cleanse the people from evil, while Jews display the head alone in the center of the New Year table in the hope that Jews will always be at the "head."

The medieval cookery manual of al-Baghdadi gives a few recipes for fish, both fresh- and salt.w.a.ter, but without specifying any varieties. Even today, recipes for fish can usually be applied to any of a number of varieties. When I ask what fish to use for a certain recipe, the answer is usually "Any fish you like" or "Any fish will do." Nevertheless, certain fish are more suitable for a particular dish and method of preparation, because of their size and firmness of flesh or oiliness and flavor.

Most of these dishes were, of course, originally evolved for fish from the Mediterranean and neighboring seas. Favorite fish are sea ba.s.s, called loukoz loukoz, which is the most prestigious and expensive; red mullet, called barbunya barbunya by the Turks and Sultan Ibrahim by the Arabs; sea bream or daurade, called by the Turks and Sultan Ibrahim by the Arabs; sea bream or daurade, called morgan morgan or or arous arous, of which there are twenty-two species, big and small; sole, called samak Moussa samak Moussa after Moses (because of its thinness, it is said to have been cut in half when Moses separated the Red Sea). Other popular fish are gurnard or sea robin, John Dory, hake and tuna, monkfish, swordfish, sardines, anchovies, ray, skate, eels, whiting, mackerel and gray mullet, turbot, flounder and grouper, snapper, blue-fish, and pompano. You can find most in America today, but you can anyway subst.i.tute fish from other seas. Freshwater fish like sturgeon, trout, salmon, eels, lampreys, and shad are also highly regarded. after Moses (because of its thinness, it is said to have been cut in half when Moses separated the Red Sea). Other popular fish are gurnard or sea robin, John Dory, hake and tuna, monkfish, swordfish, sardines, anchovies, ray, skate, eels, whiting, mackerel and gray mullet, turbot, flounder and grouper, snapper, blue-fish, and pompano. You can find most in America today, but you can anyway subst.i.tute fish from other seas. Freshwater fish like sturgeon, trout, salmon, eels, lampreys, and shad are also highly regarded.

The most common ways of cooking fish in the Middle East are to broil or roast it or to dip it in flour and deep-fry, and the usual dressing is lemon juice and a dribble of olive oil. But there are also many stunning special dishes. The only problem is that fish is usually overcooked. The cooking times I give are more in line with our tastes today.

Marinades, Dressings, and Sauces for Broiled or Grilled and Fried Fish Oil and Lemon Dressing Serves 4 * This is the common all-purpose dressing for fish. It can also be used as a marinade. * This is the common all-purpose dressing for fish. It can also be used as a marinade.

Juice of 1 lemon 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley to garnish Mix the lemon juice, oil, salt, and pepper. Soak the fish in the marinade. Or pour over the fish when serving and garnish with parsley.

Tomato and Chili Dressing Serves 4 * This is particularly delicious with grilled fish. * This is particularly delicious with grilled fish.

cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons lemon juice 4 tomatoes, skinned and diced red chili pepper, minced, or a pinch of ground chili pepper Simply heat the oil with the lemon juice and tomatoes, adding the chili. Do not cook them.

Chermoula Sauce and Marinade Serves 4 * This hot, spicy, garlicky mixture is the all-purpose, ubiquitous Moroccan sauce for fish. It goes on every kind of fish-fried, grilled, baked, and stewed. It is marvelous, and I strongly recommend it, but not for a fish with a delicate flavor. * This hot, spicy, garlicky mixture is the all-purpose, ubiquitous Moroccan sauce for fish. It goes on every kind of fish-fried, grilled, baked, and stewed. It is marvelous, and I strongly recommend it, but not for a fish with a delicate flavor.

Use half of it to marinate the fish in for 1 1 hour before cooking, and pour the rest on as a sauce before serving. hour before cooking, and pour the rest on as a sauce before serving.

cup chopped cilantro 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon c.u.min 1 teaspoon paprika - teaspoon ground chili pepper (optional) 6 tablespoons peanut or extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon or 3 tablespoons wine vinegar Blend everything together in the food processor.

Tarator bi Tahina Tahina Sauce for Fish Makes about 3 cups * A ubiquitous sauce in Syria and Lebanon, served with fried and grilled fish as well as with cold fish. * A ubiquitous sauce in Syria and Lebanon, served with fried and grilled fish as well as with cold fish.

1 cup tahina - cup lemon juice, or more 1-1 cups water teaspoon c.u.min Salt 2-4 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional) Blend the tahina with the lemon juice and water in the food processor. The paste will stiffen at first and then become smooth. Add enough water to achieve a light cream. Add c.u.min, season to taste with salt, and beat in the garlic.

Pour over cold fish or serve in a separate bowl. Garnish with parsley, if you like.

Skordalia Greek Garlic Sauce Makes about 3 cups * You have to love garlic to appreciate this most ancient of sauces. You have to love garlic to appreciate this most ancient of sauces.

3 thick slices white country bread, crusts removed, soaked in water cup mashed potatoes cup ground almonds 6-8 cloves garlic, crushed cup white-wine vinegar 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil A little salt Squeeze the bread dry, put it in a food processor with the rest of the ingredients, and blend to a smooth, creamy paste.

Fish Kebab Serves 4 * Although Turkey is surrounded on three sides by sea, it is not very strong on fish dishes. Seafood has not been part of the old Anatolian cooking traditions. Even in the coastal resorts, where seafood restaurants have mushroomed with the tourist trade, locals are not interested. The exceptions are Izmir and Istanbul, both famous for their fish markets and fish restaurants. The usual fare, like everywhere in the Middle East, is grilled or deep-fried fish. Swordfish kebab is a Turkish specialty, but other countries use other firm-fleshed fish, such as monkfish and tuna. * Although Turkey is surrounded on three sides by sea, it is not very strong on fish dishes. Seafood has not been part of the old Anatolian cooking traditions. Even in the coastal resorts, where seafood restaurants have mushroomed with the tourist trade, locals are not interested. The exceptions are Izmir and Istanbul, both famous for their fish markets and fish restaurants. The usual fare, like everywhere in the Middle East, is grilled or deep-fried fish. Swordfish kebab is a Turkish specialty, but other countries use other firm-fleshed fish, such as monkfish and tuna.

1 pounds swordfish, tuna, or monkfish, cut into l-inch cubes Bay leaves (about 20) 1 medium onion 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil?

Juice of lemon Salt and pepper 1 lemon, cut in wedges, to serve Thread the fish cubes onto wooden or flat metal skewers, alternating with bay leaves. Liquidize the onion in the blender with the oil, lemon, salt, and pepper and marinate the fish on the skewers in this mixture for 20 minutes, leaving it, covered, in the refrigerator.

Cook over glowing embers or under the broiler for 4-6 minutes, turning the skewers a few times and brushing with the marinade.

Serve with lemon wedges.

Variations Marinate the pieces of fish, then thread them onto skewers with alternating pieces of bay leaf and slices of onion, pepper, and tomato, cut to the same size as the fish.

Moroccans cut their fish into smaller cubes. For a Moroccan flavor, marinate in and dress with the chermoula chermoula sauce (page 180), omitting the cilantro. sauce (page 180), omitting the cilantro.

For an exciting sweet-and-sour flavor of Syria and Iran, marinate in a tamarind sauce. For this, boil 2 tablespoons tamarind paste with cup water, stirring until the tamarind dissolves. Then beat in 3 tablespoons olive oil.

Grilled Tuna with Tomato and Caper Dressing Serves 4 * Tuna is usually overcooked in the Middle East. But the best way of eating it is seared on the outside and raw on the inside, which makes it deliciously, meltingly tender. Otherwise it quickly dries out. It can be brushed with oil and cooked on the barbecue or under the broiler, but an easy and perfect way is to pan-grill it. The dressing is a glamorized version of the ubiquitous oil-and-lemon one. It is good with all kinds offish. * Tuna is usually overcooked in the Middle East. But the best way of eating it is seared on the outside and raw on the inside, which makes it deliciously, meltingly tender. Otherwise it quickly dries out. It can be brushed with oil and cooked on the barbecue or under the broiler, but an easy and perfect way is to pan-grill it. The dressing is a glamorized version of the ubiquitous oil-and-lemon one. It is good with all kinds offish.

8 tablespoons mild extra-virgin olive oil 4 tuna steaks Salt and pepper Juice of 1 lemon 2 tomatoes, diced 2 tablespoons capers, soaked to remove excess salt or vinegar (optional) Film a grill pan or heavy nonstick skillet with oil. Put in the tuna steaks and cook over high heat for 1-2 minutes on either side, depending on their thickness. You should see the flesh still dark inside as it pales on the outside.

For the dressing, mix the rest of the ingredients with the remaining olive oil. Heat through to not-quite-boiling point and pour over the fish as you serve.

Variation Add cup chopped cilantro, or 2 crushed garlic cloves and - teaspoon harissa (page 464), to the dressing.

Levrek Izgarasi Broiled Sea Ba.s.s with Raki Serves 4I discovered it in Istanbul. I don't believe it is traditional, but the raki-the anise-flavored spirit-is a pleasing touch. You can use other fish too. discovered it in Istanbul. I don't believe it is traditional, but the raki-the anise-flavored spirit-is a pleasing touch. You can use other fish too.

2 sea ba.s.s, each weighing about 1 pounds 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper cup raki 2 lemons, cut in wedges, to serve Slash the fish in 2 places in the thickest part on either side. Brush generously with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on an oiled grill over glowing embers, or on a piece of foil in a heatproof dish under a preheated broiler. Cook for 8 minutes on either side.

Pour the raki over the fish at the table and light with a match. When the flames have died down, fillet the fish and place on 4 warmed plates.

Serve with lemon wedges.

Broiled Red Mullet Wrapped in Grape Leaves Serves 6 * Red mullet is so highly rated it is called Sultan Ibrahim in the Arab world. In Turkey it is called * Red mullet is so highly rated it is called Sultan Ibrahim in the Arab world. In Turkey it is called barbunya barbunya. In this dish, which is simple to make and beautiful to offer, grape leaves keep the fish moist and impart a delicate flavor. You may use fresh or preserved leaves. If the grape leaves are fresh, scald them in boiling water for a moment or two, until they flop, then dip them quickly in cold water so as to preserve their color. If they are preserved in brine, soak them in hot water for hour to remove the salt, changing the water once, then rinse them.

6 small red mullet, each weighing about 8 ounces 12 grape leaves Extra-virgin olive oil Salt 1 lemons, cut in wedges Ask the fishmonger to clean and scale the fish and to keep the heads on and give you the livers (they are a delicacy you can saute and eat while you're cooking).

Place 2 grape leaves shiny side down on a plate so that together they are large enough to wrap up a fish. Brush with oil. Place a fish across the leaves, and sprinkle lightly with salt. Roll up into a parcel, folding down the top leaf so that the head sticks out. Repeat with the remaining fish and leaves.

Cook on a barbecue or under the broiler for about 4-5 minutes on each side.

Serve with lemon wedges.

Variations Stuff the cavities with 4 crushed garlic cloves mixed with cup chopped flat-leaf parsley.

Sardines can be used instead of red mullet.

Roast Fish with Lemon and Honeyed Onions Serves 2 * The honeyed onions make an enthralling accompaniment to a delicate fish. * The honeyed onions make an enthralling accompaniment to a delicate fish.

2 whole sea ba.s.s, pompano, or red snapper, weighing about 1 pound each 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of lemon Salt and pepper 1 lemon, cut into wedges, to garnish FOR THE THE HONEYED ONIONS HONEYED ONIONS.

1 pound onions, cut in half and sliced 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons honey Juice of lemon Salt and pepper For the honeyed onions, cook the onions in the oil on very low heat, with the lid on, stirring occasionally, until very soft. Then remove the lid and cook, stirring, until the onions are golden. Add honey, lemon juice, salt, and pepper, and cook another 5 minutes.

Place the fish in a baking dish. Rub them with oil and lemon juice and season lightly with salt and pepper. Roast in a preheated 375F oven for 15-20 minutes, or until done, then put under the broiler for 2 minutes, until the skin is crisp and brown. Serve with the reheated honeyed onions and lemon wedges.

Variations Add 2-3 tablespoons of black or golden raisins to the onions.

A large, 3-pound fish (to serve 6) can be covered with the cooked onion mixture (make 2 or 3 times the quant.i.ty) and baked at 425F for about 30 minutes, by which time the onions will have turned into a golden crust.

Sultan Ibrahim Maqli Deep-Fried Red Mullet Stuffed with Garlic and Parsley A street vendor in Cairo used to sell these wrapped in newspaper, to be eaten on the spot or carried home. Other small or medium-sized fish can be used in the same way.

Rub the fish with crushed garlic, salt, and pepper, and stuff them with finely chopped flat-leaf parsley mixed with a little crushed garlic. Lightly flour and deep-fry in very hot olive oil. Serve garnished with parsley and lemon wedges.

Fried Marinated Fish Served Cold Serves 8 * This makes an exciting cold first course or buffet dish. The fish is fried, then marinated in a beautifully flavored dressing. Make it at least an hour before you are ready to serve. You can use Mediterranean fish, such as bream, or any firm-fleshed fish, such as cod or haddock. * This makes an exciting cold first course or buffet dish. The fish is fried, then marinated in a beautifully flavored dressing. Make it at least an hour before you are ready to serve. You can use Mediterranean fish, such as bream, or any firm-fleshed fish, such as cod or haddock.

2 pounds fish fillets, skinned and cut into 1-inch pieces Flour Olive oil for frying FOR THE THE MARINADE MARINADE.

cup chopped cilantro 1 onion, finely chopped 1 chili pepper, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed 6-8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of -1 lemon Salt Roll the fish fillets in flour, turning to cover them lightly all over. Then deep-fry briefly in hot oil till golden, turning them over once. Drain on paper towels.

Mix the marinade ingredients and turn the fish in this mixture. Leave for at least an hour before serving cold.

Fish in a Hot Saffron and Ginger Tomato Sauce Serves 2 * Fish cooked in tomato sauce is ubiquitous in the Middle East. This wonderfully flavored North African one may be used with all kinds of fish. Use whole fish such as red mullet, Caribbean goatfish, sea ba.s.s, or red snapper, or fillets such as haddock, cod, turbot, catfish, or salmon. * Fish cooked in tomato sauce is ubiquitous in the Middle East. This wonderfully flavored North African one may be used with all kinds of fish. Use whole fish such as red mullet, Caribbean goatfish, sea ba.s.s, or red snapper, or fillets such as haddock, cod, turbot, catfish, or salmon.

2 whole fish (about pound each) or about 1 pound fillets 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 chili pepper, finely chopped 2-3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and pepper 1 teaspoons sugar teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron 1 inches fresh gingerroot, grated or crushed in a garlic press to extract the juice (do small pieces at a time) Have the whole fish (if using) scaled and cleaned but leave the heads on.

In a frying pan, heat the garlic and the chili in the oil for moments only, until they soften. Add the tomatoes, salt, pepper, sugar, saffron, and ginger, and simmer 10 minutes.

Put the fish in the pan with the tomato sauce and simmer until done to your liking- about 3-6 minutes for fillets and about 6-10 minutes for whole fish (turning the whole fish over once), until the fish flakes but is still slightly underdone.

Pan-Cooked Fish with Preserved Lemon, Green Olives, and Capers Serves 4 * Preserved lemon and olives are a favorite combination for fish dishes in Morocco and other North African countries. * Preserved lemon and olives are a favorite combination for fish dishes in Morocco and other North African countries.

2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon powdered ginger teaspoon powdered saffron 4 fish steaks or fillets-you can use haddock, cod, turbot, hake, catfish, or salmon Salt and pepper -1 preserved lemon (page 459), rinsed and cut into small pieces 12 green olives 2 tablespoons capers, soaked to remove their excess salt or vinegar (optional) 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro Heat the b.u.t.ter with the oil in a large skillet and stir in the ginger and saffron.

Put in the fish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and add the preserved lemon, green olives, capers, and cilantro. Cook at a high temperature very briefly first, to seal the fish, then lower the heat to finish the cooking until done to your liking, turning the fish over once. Fillets take 3-6 minutes, steaks about 6-8. The fish should flake but still be a little underdone.

Pan-Cooked Fish Fillet with Chermoula Sauce Serves 4 * Pan-cooking with the famous marinade is the simplest and quickest way of preparing a Moroccan-style fish dish. * Pan-cooking with the famous marinade is the simplest and quickest way of preparing a Moroccan-style fish dish.

cup chopped cilantro 4 cloves garlic, crushed -1 teaspoon c.u.min 1 teaspoon paprika - teaspoon ground chili pepper (optional) 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon or 3 tablespoons wine vinegar 2 pounds fish fillets such as turbot, hake, or cod-skin on For the chermoula chermoula, blend everything except the fish together in the food processor. Marinate the fish in half the quant.i.ty of sauce for hour-setting aside the rest.

Put the fish in a large nonstick skillet filmed with oil over medium heat, skin side down, and cook, turning them over once, for 3-8 minutes, or until the fish flakes but is still a little underdone. If the fillets are thin, do not turn them over-they will cook through to the top.

Serve with the remaining sauce poured over.

Variation For another chermoula chermoula (every town, every family, has its own special combination) mix: cup chopped cilantro; cup chopped flat-leaf parsley; 3 large garlic cloves, crushed; I teaspoons ground c.u.min; teaspoon ground coriander; 1 teaspoons paprika; 1 good pinch of ground chili pepper; juice of 1 lemon or 4 tablespoons wine vinegar; and (every town, every family, has its own special combination) mix: cup chopped cilantro; cup chopped flat-leaf parsley; 3 large garlic cloves, crushed; I teaspoons ground c.u.min; teaspoon ground coriander; 1 teaspoons paprika; 1 good pinch of ground chili pepper; juice of 1 lemon or 4 tablespoons wine vinegar; and A A cup extra-virgin olive or other oil. cup extra-virgin olive or other oil.

Raya bel Batata Skate with c.u.min and Potatoes Serves 4 * Small skate, tender enough to fry quickly, should be used for this Tunisian dish. The wings are bought already dressed from the fishmonger. * Small skate, tender enough to fry quickly, should be used for this Tunisian dish. The wings are bought already dressed from the fishmonger.

4 small wings of skate, weighing 2 pounds 4 cloves garlic, crushed in a garlic press 1 teaspoons ground c.u.min0 Salt About cup olive oil 1 pound potatoes, peeled, boiled, and sliced Pepper 2 tablespoons capers 1 or 2 lemons, cut in quarters, to serve with Cut the fish into pieces about 2 inches wide, cutting in between the long soft bones. Rub the pieces with a mixture of garlic, c.u.min, salt, and 3-4 tablespoons of the olive oil.

In a large frying pan, fry the fish pieces in batches in shallow oil, giving them about 4 minutes on either side, until the flesh begins to part from the bone. Remove to a baking dish.

Saute the potatoes slowly in the same oil, adding salt and pepper and more oil, and turning them over, until they are tender.

Add the capers towards the end. Reheat the fish in a 400F oven, covered with foil. Serve on a bed of the sauteed potatoes accompanied by lemon wedges.

Poached Fish with Saffron Vermicelli Serves 4 * For this delightful and simple Moroccan dish, use fish fillets-monkfish or any firm-fleshed fish such as bream, turbot, haddock, cod-and have them skinned. * For this delightful and simple Moroccan dish, use fish fillets-monkfish or any firm-fleshed fish such as bream, turbot, haddock, cod-and have them skinned.

1 pounds fish fillets, skinned Salt 10 ounces dry vermicelli Salt teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powdered saffron 4-5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Pepper 4 tablespoons chopped parsley or cilantro Poach the fish in barely simmering (not boiling) salted water for 5-10 minutes, until the flesh looks opaque when you cut into it.

At the same time, break the vermicelli in your hand into small pieces and cook in about 5 cups of boiling salted water with the saffron until just tender, stirring vigorously so that the vermicelli do not stick together. Drain, reserving about 1 cup of the saffron water to use as a sauce. (Keep the remainder if you like-there is very little left-to pour into a soup or a stew.) Beat the olive oil into the water, season with salt and pepper, and add the parsley or cilantro.

Serve the fish on a bed of vermicelli, with the sauce poured over.

Samak Tarator Cold Poached Fish with Pine Nut Sauce Serves 6 * * Tarator Tarator is the name used in different countries for sauces made with a variety of nuts. This sharp, garlicky one with pine nuts belongs to Syria and Lebanon. In Egypt it was served at grand buffet parties, where whole fish were entirely covered with it. For this simpler version you may use any white fish-fillets or steaks. is the name used in different countries for sauces made with a variety of nuts. This sharp, garlicky one with pine nuts belongs to Syria and Lebanon. In Egypt it was served at grand buffet parties, where whole fish were entirely covered with it. For this simpler version you may use any white fish-fillets or steaks.

6 fish steaks or fillets Salt Olive oil FOR THE THE TARATOR SAUCE TARATOR SAUCE.

1 slice white bread, crusts removed 1 cup pine nuts Juice of 1-2 lemons 1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed Salt and white pepper cup light sesame or sunflower oil Season the fish with salt and bake in foil (see "To Cook Fish in Foil," at right).

For the sauce, soak the bread in water and squeeze dry. Put it in the food processor with the pine nuts, lemon juice, garlic, a little salt and pepper, and enough oil to have a cream the consistency of mayonnaise.

Variations Another way of making the sauce is to use fish stock instead of the cup oil.

For a party dish, choose a large, delicate fish such as sea ba.s.s, hake, catfish, or salmon. Have it skinned and filleted and put the fillets together in a large piece of foil. Cook as described in "To Cook Fish in Foil," at right. Make 2-3 times the quant.i.ty of tarator tarator sauce. Serve the fish cold, covered with the sauce, with the head and tail in place. The fish is usually decorated with a crisscross pattern, using fried pine nuts or flaked almonds. Alternative garnishes are: lemon slices, flat-leaf parsley, sliced green pickles, olives, radishes, and pieces of pimento. sauce. Serve the fish cold, covered with the sauce, with the head and tail in place. The fish is usually decorated with a crisscross pattern, using fried pine nuts or flaked almonds. Alternative garnishes are: lemon slices, flat-leaf parsley, sliced green pickles, olives, radishes, and pieces of pimento.

L'Hout bel Shakshouka Fish with Onions, Peppers, and Tomatoes Serves 4 * Algerians serve deep-fried Dover sole over a bed of * Algerians serve deep-fried Dover sole over a bed of shakshouka shakshouka, but other flat fish, such as lemon or gray sole or flounder, are excellent with the sauteed Mediterranean vegetables-and they can be broiled.

4 soles, or other flat fish, each weighing about 12 ounces, skinned Salt 1 large onion, cut in half and sliced Extra-virgin olive oil 2 bell peppers, green or red-seeded and sliced 1 or 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tomatoes, quartered Pepper Juice of 1 lemon Season the fish lightly with salt.