The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume I Part 9

Pleasures and Recreations commonly attend the Ladies so closely, that in treating of the one I can't but remember the other; and the Inhabitants of _Dresden_ are so much devoted to Pleasures, that I think I ought to put them into a separate Article. When the King is at _Dresden_ there are Pleasures in abundance, such as Plays, Masquerades, b.a.l.l.s, Feasts, Running at the Ring, and Races on Sleds, Turnaments, Hunting-Matches; but when the King is in _Poland_ there's a very great _Vacuum_. The Electoral Prince and Princess are often at _Wermstorff_, alias _Hubertsbourg_; and even when their Royal Highnesses are in Town, they are pretty retir'd: They see Company while they are at Dinner, but for the rest of the day none come near them besides the few that have the honour of their Confidence. The rest are scatter'd up and down the Town to the great Disappointment of Foreigners that happen then to be here; for there's no body keeps open House, they being all select Societies to which 'tis very difficult to gain admittance. If one is invited to dine with some Lord of the Court, one has a good Dinner 'tis true, but after Dinner is over a Man knows not how to bestow himself. One is sure of finding Company no where except at the Houses of Madame _de Brebentau_ the Widow of the great Treasurer of _Poland_, and of the Countess _de Lagnasco_; nor are their Houses always open, for Madame _de Brebentau_ is often sick, and Madame _de Lagnasco_ often abroad, or engag'd in Parties with the Electoral Princess, and then one knows not where to go; for there's no Play to be seen, and as for the young People, they amuse themselves with the common Pleasures of that Stage of Life; they drink, they game, and do something more.

When the King is at _Dresden_, the People partake in most of the Pleasures of the Court, the generality of the Entertainments which the King gives being public. Plays and Masquerades are free for any People of Fashion; there's nothing to pay, and all divert themselves as they like best. The Citizens Wives are more tractable here than in any Town in _Germany_: They love to imitate the Ladies of Quality, and 'tis sometimes as good as a Comedy to see what Airs they give themselves.

They are extremely fond of Dressing, which Luxurious Taste extends even to Wives of the Mechanics, and of the Livery; so that were a Stranger to come hither on a Sunday or a Holiday, when every body is dress'd, he wou'd be tempted to think that _Plutus_ had scatter'd all his Wealth among these People; and a very great n.o.bleman, who 'tis like was not acquainted with the G.o.d _Plutus_, returning home once from _Dresden_, told his Wife that he was come from a City to which the Devil had carry'd all the Money.

The Parsons here do indeed cry aloud against these Abuses, but the worst on't is, that like the Clergy in many other Places, they preach what they don't practise; and while they are declaiming against Luxury and new Fashions, they suffer their Wives and Daughters to be the first to set off their Charms with the gayest and the newest Patterns.

While I am speaking of the Pastors, I must be a little more particular.

These Gentlemen stand very high in the Opinion of the Laity, and are ready to think themselves Bishops. Having such Notions as these in their Heads, they anathematise all that are not _Lutherans_: The _Catholics_ and the _Reform'd_, or, to speak as they do, the _Papists_ and _Calvinists_, all Christians in short who are of a contrary Opinion to those charitable Ecclesiastics are d.a.m.n'd without Mercy. Yet by the Appearance of these severe Judges, one would think they preach'd only Peace and Paradise; and they have such a meek, humble, modest, and timorous Air, that you wou'd be apt to take them for Saints.

A few days ago I had an Adventure with one of those Clergymen, which I will acquaint you of, because I think it may give you an Idea of their Character; for he that sees one of them, sees all.

I happen'd to be making a Visit to a _Lutheran_ Lady, who pa.s.ses for a very devout one: There was already a pretty deal of Company, and who should come in to add to it but a Minister that was a Doctor, and by consequence a Man of Importance; as such too he was receiv'd by the Mistress of the House, who said to me as soon as she saw his Face, _You will now see a holy Man_. The good Man, or Saint, as he wou'd be reckon'd, enter'd the Room with his Eyes cast downward, making profound Reverences, and prostrating himself in such a manner as if he had said _Domine non sum dignus_. At last, after a great many Compliments, he sat down, was silent for a few Moments, and then he spoke. His Words were all sacred, and his Sentences such as if the wise Man himself had spoke with his Lips: _G.o.d be prais'd_ was in every Phrase, and he was hearken'd to with as much Attention as an Oracle. I listen'd to him first like the rest, but at length I thought I might as well talk to a pretty young Lady that sat just by me. The Doctor offended to see the little Regard I paid to what he said, enquir'd of the Mistress of the House who I was. She told him my Name, and withal that I was once a _Calvinist_, but that I was turn'd _Papist_. What a Thunder-stroke was this to the Doctor! He threw himself to the back of his Chair, lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, sigh'd, and cry'd out, _Das Gott erbarme_, i. e. _G.o.d help us_. Then transported by a Fit of Zeal, he turn'd about to me and ask'd me what had induc'd me to embrace a Religion which he treated as Idolatry? I told him that I did not think he need to give himself any Trouble about my Conversion, since according to his System I was d.a.m.n'd when a _Calvinist_ as well as when a _Catholic_.

_The Case is not quite the same_, said the Minister; but to turn _Papist_!

cry'd he, to _adore Baal! to become a Disciple of Antichrist! alas! it were better to be a d.a.m.n'd Calvinist!_ I own that I had much ado to help laughing outright at the Minister's impertinent Zeal: yet I had the Discretion to contain myself, for I had a mind to see to what length he wou'd carry his sanctify'd Rant. He said indeed a great deal, and because I made no Answer, he thought he had convinc'd me, if not touch'd me to the quick. He was actually applauding himself for the good Work he had wrought upon my Soul, when I told him that he ought not to conclude from my Silence that he had convinc'd me; that it neither consisted with my Character nor my Temper to dispute about Religion, that I left every Man to his own Opinion, and that I knew which to adhere to. _What Blindness is here!_ cry'd the Doctor again, _What a mad Papist are you? If you will not be of our Communion_, return to the _Religion which you have abandon'd, in which there are some Hopes at least that G.o.d will pardon you_.

The fanatical Doctor concluded his Exclamations by a Prayer, in which he begg'd G.o.d to preserve every good _Lutheran_ Soul from the Errors of Popery; and then he went away, leaving the Company more scandaliz'd than edify'd by his Zeal.

Formerly the Preachers had the pleasure of venting their Choler in the Pulpit, but the King by a wise Decree, which indeed ought to be followed in all Countries, has confin'd them to the Preaching of the Gospel, and to treat of Controversial Matters no farther than is merely necessary for the People's Instruction. For the rest, the Parsons need not fear being soon supplanted, for the _Saxons_ are hearty _Lutherans_; and if they tolerate the Catholics, 'tis because they can't help it. They have excluded them from Offices in the Courts of Judicature, and from the Privilege of enjoying Lands; but they have not been able to keep them out of Places in the Ministry, or at Court, nor from Employments in the Army, which are three very engaging Articles to make Proselytes among the Gentry.

Thus, Sir, you have all that I can say to you relating to _Dresden_ and _Saxony_. 'Tis now high time to put an end to my Legend. I kiss your hand, and am, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER VI.

_SIR_, _Weimar, Sept. 5, 1729._

Before I write you an account of what became of me when I left _Dresden_, I shall endeavour to give you the Intelligence you desire concerning the late Count _de Flemming_, Prime Minister and Velt-Marshal of _Saxony_.

That n.o.bleman was of a good Extraction, being descended of a Family which pretends to derive its Origin from that of _Flemming_, which has been of considerable Rank for a long time in _Scotland_, _Sweden_, _Germany_, and _Poland_. My Lord _Wigtoun_ is the Chief of that Family in _Scotland_.

_James-Henry_ Count _de Flemming_, whose Pourtraiture and Character you desire of me, was born the 8th of _March_ 1667. His Father was President of the Regency of _Stargard_, the Capital of _Prussian Pomerania_, who had three Sons, of whom this Count was the second. He had an Education suitable to his Birth. He study'd first at _Francfort_ upon the _Oder_, and afterwards at _Utrecht_ under the celebrated _Grevius_, where he learnt _Latin_ to such a degree that he always spoke it with very great Eloquence. After he had finish'd his Studies he enter'd into the Service of _Brandenbourg_, where the Baron _de Span_, his Uncle by the Mother's side, was Velt-Marshal. His first Preferment was to a Pair of Colours; but in a little time he had a Company given him, which he commanded at the Battle of _Orba.s.san_ in _Piedmont_. In 1694, he enter'd as a Lieutenant-Colonel into the Service of _John-George_ IV. Elector of _Saxony_; upon whose Death, and the Succession of _Frederic-Augustus_, _Flemming_ obtain'd a Regiment, and accompany'd the new Elector into _Hungary_, where he commanded the Emperor's Army against the Infidels during the Campaigns of 1695, and 1696. There it was that _Flemming_ kill'd in a Duel the Baron _de Lovel_, who was Lieutenant-Colonel in the Service of _Saxony_. In 1697, he was sent into _Poland_, where, by the Interest of his Cousin-german, the Daughter of Velt-Marshal _Span_ of _Berlin_, Wife of M. _Brebentau_ Palatine of _Marienbourg_, who died Great Treasurer of _Poland_, and by the Credit of _Benedict Sapieha_ he had the Happiness of getting his Master chose King of _Poland_. This Negotiation obtain'd him the Post of Major-General, and laid the Foundation of his Fortune. In 1700, he was made a Lieutenant-General, and in that Quality laid siege to _Riga_, which the King of _Sweden_ oblig'd him to raise. In 1702, he marry'd _Sapieha_, a Daughter of one of the chief n.o.blemen of _Lithuania_. He was wounded the same Year at the Battle of _Clischhoff_, at which time the King of _Sweden_ being every where victorious, demanded that the King of _Poland_ shou'd deliver up _Flemming_ to him. But upon this he retir'd to _Brandenbourg_, till King _Stanislaus_ had made _Charles_ XII. easy. _Flemming_ being return'd to _Saxony_, fought a Duel with M. _de Schulembourg_, who giving him a Fall, insisted that he should beg his Life; but _Flemming_ got out of this ugly Sc.r.a.pe by a scurvy Joke, and _Schulembourg_ gave him his Life. The latter was a younger Lieutenant-General than _Flemming_, but in every respect his Rival, and wou'd have been a Marshal if his Fortune had been as good as his Valour.

At the Battle of _Frauenstad_ in 1705, where he was defeated by the _Swedes_, _Schulembourg_ quitted the Service of _Saxony_ and went into that _of Venice_. By this means _Flemming_, who had now no Rival left, was made a Marshal, and happen'd to be at _Dresden_ when the King of _Sweden_ made that strange Visit to the King of _Poland_; at which time, if _Augustus_ had been as ungenerous as _Flemming_, _Charles_ wou'd have been detain'd. Many People accuse _Flemming_ of having persuaded the King his Master to deliver up _Patkul_: This I can't pretend to affirm, but that there was a mortal Antipathy betwixt him and the Minister of _Russia_ is certain; for the latter having presented a Memorial to the King of _Poland_, setting forth the wretched condition of the _Muscovite_ Troops in the Pay of _Saxony_, concluded it with these _Latin_ Words,

DIXI, ET SALVAVI ANIMAM.

Which Memorial, when _Flemming_ had read, and found himself not very well used in it, he took a Pen and underwrote these Words,

MALEDIXISTI, ET d.a.m.nABERIS.

After the Disaster which _Charles_ XII. met with near _Pultowa_, _Flemming_ contributed very much to the Re-establishment of King _Augustus_ in _Poland_. He confirm'd the Alliance betwixt his Master and the Czar, made Peace with the Confederates, and concluded another Alliance with _Denmark_. The Czar and the King of _Denmark_ honour'd him with their Orders of Knighthood, and he had that of _Poland_ before. He went Amba.s.sador to the unsuccessful Congress at _Brunswic_, and was afterwards at _Hanover_ to attend _George_ I. King of _Great Britain_. When the King of _Sweden_ return'd to _Pomerania_, _Flemming_ left no Stone unturn'd to draw the King of _Prussia_ into his Master's Alliance. He had some Years before procur'd him the Sequestration of the Town of _Stetin_, and 'twas lucky enough for him that the Pride and Obstinacy of the King of _Sweden_ obliged the King of _Prussia_ to declare himself his Enemy. At that time _Flemming_ was rather a Courier between _Dresden_, _Berlin_, and _Warsaw_, than an Amba.s.sador and Prime Minister, which Dignity he enjoy'd after the Death of the Prince _de Furstemberg_ his Predecessor. When the Peace of the North was settled, _Flemming_ went Amba.s.sador to _Vienna_, where he concluded the Marriage of the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_ with the Archd.u.c.h.ess, eldest Daughter to the Emperor _Joseph_, tho' the Contract had been settled before by the Count de _Wackerbarth_, who it may be said had the Pains to negotiate it, and _Flemming_ the Glory of finishing it.

At this time Count _Flemming_ had resign'd all the Salaries of his Employments in _Saxony_, and only reserv'd to himself the private Perquisites and the Franchise of the Post-Offices; and his Journeys, which were very frequent, were all at the Expence of the King. It was about this time that he caus'd his Marriage with _Sapieha_ to be dissolv'd, and marry'd one _Radzevil_, by whom he had a Son, who was but a Year and a half old when the Count died at _Vienna_, to which place he was return'd with the Character of Amba.s.sador. He left all his Estate to this Child, without making any Intail on his Family; so that when this Son died, who did not long survive him, his Estate went to Madame _de Flemming_, who by marrying again carry'd the Bulk of it into another Family. They say that his Inheritance was worth sixteen Millions of Crowns, exclusive of what he had expended during the Splendor of his Fortune, which lasted thirty Years, or thereabouts. Whether _Richelieu_ and _Mazarine_ got greater Estates, I cannot say; but in _Germany_ there is not an Instance of one sooner acquir'd, more resplendent, and better supported than his was. He was Prime Minister, Velt-Marshal of _Saxony_, and Master of the Horse of _Lithuania_; by which Offices he gain'd immense Sums. He made considerable Purchases in _Silesia_ and _Poland_, but very little in _Saxony_. Whether he left any thing to the King is not said; tho' he ought really to have made him some Rest.i.tution, and he might naturally have given up with a good Grace what he cou'd not but foresee wou'd be taken by force from his Heir. As it was just that his Succession shou'd pa.s.s thro' the Purgatory of a _Chambre Ardente_, the King establish'd one, which 'tis said has adjudg'd eight Millions to his Majesty, and the same to his Widow; which is a very fair Dividend.

Count _Flemming_ was taller than ordinary, but a handsome Man; he had very regular Features, a lively Eye, a disdainful Sneer, a haughty Air, and he was really proud, and beyond measure ambitious. He was generous to a degree of Ostentation, and always aim'd to do something to be talk'd of.

He was vigilant, laborious, indefatigable, allow'd himself little Sleep; and whenever he took a Debauch, a Nap of two Hours set him to rights again. It was no more for him to go from a Debauch to Business, than from Business to a Debauch; and he never fatigu'd himself, but dispatch'd the greatest Affairs with so much Ease as if they were only a Diversion. He lov'd to banter, but did not always make use of the Terms suitable to his Character; and Persons who did not dare to answer him again, were commonly the b.u.t.ts of his Raillery. He was polite when he had a mind to it, but in the general Course of his Behaviour he carry'd an Air fitter for a Captain of Dragoons than for a Marshal and a Prime Minister. He never did a thing for any body without some View; he scrupl'd neither Cunning nor even Perjury, and provided he could gain his Ends, all ways were alike fair to him. All his Life-time he took care to do his own Business first, and then his Master's the King's; and I question whether I do him any Injustice if I say that he was the King of _Prussia_'s Minister, much more than the King of _Poland_'s.

This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you concerning Count _Flemming_. I have told you very nakedly what I always thought of him, and I don't believe that I have mistaken his Character. Be this as it will, my Decision is of too little weight to do either Good or Harm; the Publick will always judge of him according to their best Information. I proceed now with the Narrative of my Travels.

After I had set out from _Dresden_ I went to _Altenbourg_ in hopes of finding the Court of _Gotha_ there, which I had been told, intended to spend the Remainder of the fine Season there; but it was set out the Night before for _Gotha_, where I hope to see it to-morrow.

The City of ALTENBOURG is the Capital of a County of that Name, of which the Duke of _Saxe-Gotha_ is the Sovereign. This Prince has a Palace there which makes a handsome appearance, but I shall say nothing more of it because I neglected to go and see it. The Peasants of the County of _Altenbourg_ are the richest in _Germany_, and may almost vye with those of _Holland_. I have been a.s.sur'd that some of them have given 20 or 30000 Crowns in Marriage with their Daughters; and like the _Dutch_ Peasants, they take care to match them to none but the Sons of substantial Farmers.

As I left _Altenbourg_ I came upon a fine Causey with a Row of Trees on each side, which brought me to the Frontiers of the County. I afterwards fell into very bad Roads all the way to _Leipsic_, where I stay'd but a very few Hours, and proceeded the same day to MERSEBOURG. This City was much more considerable formerly than now. It was the See of a Bishop, but was seculariz'd by the Treaty of _Pa.s.saw_ in favour of the House of _Saxony_. Its Situation is charming, with Gardens and Meadows all round it, and its Walls are wash'd by the River _Sala_. The great Church which was formerly a Cathedral is a _Gothic_ Building, where there is a stately Tomb of the Emperor _Rodolph_ of _Schwartzbourg_, who died after he had lost one Hand in a Battle he fought with the Emperor _Henry_ IV. with whom he was Compet.i.tor. This Prince a few Moments before he expir'd, took up his Hand that was cut off, and holding it up to those who were about him, said to them, _Behold this Hand; 'tis the same that I lifted up when I promis'd Faith and Allegiance to my Emperor and Lord; but by your Advice and Instigation I have not kept my Promise to him, for which you will one day give an account to G.o.d._ Some time after this unfortunate Prince's Death, the Emperor _Henry_ IV. coming to _Mersebourg_ and taking a view of _Rodolphus's_ Tomb, of which he admir'd the Magnificence, certain Flatterers told him that the Tomb ought to be destroy'd as too pompous for a Rebel; but the Emperor scorning such a pitiful Revenge, made answer, _Wou'd to G.o.d that all my Enemies were thus pompously interr'd_.

The City of _Mersebourg_ is the Residence of a Duke of the House of _Saxony_, who is Sovereign of all the Country that formerly const.i.tuted the Bishop.r.i.c.k, which enables him to keep a splendid Court[71]. The next day after my Arrival I had the Honour to pay him my Compliments, and had a very satisfactory Reception. The Prince conducted me into a Hall which was hung with Ba.s.s-Viols from the Bottom to the Top, in the same manner as an a.r.s.enal is with Helmets and Breast-Plates. In the middle of the Hall there was a Viol which was distinguish'd from the rest. It reach'd up to the very Cieling, and there was a Ladder set, which such as had the Curiosity to take a particular View of it were oblig'd to ascend, for surely it was the most stately Instrument of the kind that ever was made. The Duke made me take particular notice of it, and was pleas'd with the Admiration which I express'd of it. He regal'd me also with some Airs upon another Ba.s.s-Viol which he call'd his _Favorite_, and which was but one fourth part as big as the other.

After this Concert I din'd with the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess. This Princess is the Daughter of the late Prince of _Na.s.sau-Idstein_, than whom there cannot be a more amiable Lady. She has an Air of Mildness, Goodness and Prudence diffused over all her Features; and her Wit is of the same Stamp as her Beauty, amiable without Parade and Ostentation. Some of her Courtiers a.s.sur'd me, that her Mind is as charming as her Person. If that be true, which I am loth to doubt of, this Princess deserves a more splendid Fortune than what she enjoys.

After Dinner, I was one at a Match of Quadrille with the d.u.c.h.ess, and at night there was dancing, and I never saw any body dance with a better Grace than this Princess. The Ball held till the Night was far advanced, when there was a grand Supper, which was no sooner over than I took leave of the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess and retir'd to my Quarters, with a design to set out in a few Hours and proceed in my Journey. At my Lodging I found a Gentleman from the Duke, who said to me, 'That as he was pa.s.sing by he saw my Men packing up my things, and that therefore he came in purely to wish me a good Journey. He a.s.sured me that he had a secret Kindness for me; that I might safely take his Word; that he was Sincerity it self; and that he wish'd 500000 Devils might twist his Neck if he was not heartily my Friend: And to give you proofs of it, _said he_, I will treat you with some Trifle, such as a Dram of Anniseed, Orange-Water, or Ratasia. Upon my word my Apothecary has what is choice good; he lives but at the end of the Street; Come, I will shew you the way to his House.'

While he harangu'd me in this manner he reel'd, being so drunk that he cou'd not stand. I thank'd him therefore for his Love, and told him that I did not drink Drams, but that if he had a mind to any Liquor of that sort, I would send for some for him; and I bid my Landlord fetch it. The Apothecary, as ill luck would have it, was not yet got up. 'Soho, here, _said my new Friend_, there is nothing to drink but Aquavitae; here, Landlord, a Gla.s.s of Brandy, Pipes and Tobacco. You must have something, _said he_, to be doing.' Every thing he call'd for being brought, my Gentleman drank two or three Gla.s.ses of Brandy, and smoak'd as many Pipes of Tobacco. I hoped to see him tumble down, and by consequence to get rid of him, when he took it into his head to call for some Dishes of Tea that I had order'd to be made for my self, and which made him so sober that he recover'd his Reason. I laid hold of this happy Interval (for I heard him calling out for Brandy, which I apprehended would occasion a Relapse) and talk'd to him about his Master's Ba.s.s-Viols; upon which, without much Intreaty, he said to me, 'You know, Sir, that every Man almost has his particular Whim, Princes as well as private Persons. One is an Admirer of Magnificence, another of Troops, and a third of Mistresses. As for my august Master, his Fancy runs only on Ba.s.s-Viols, and whoever sollicits him for an Employment or any other Favour, can't do better than to accommodate his a.r.s.enal with one of these Instruments. That very large one, _said he_, which you saw in the Room where all his Viols are, was presented to him by one who wanted to be a Privy-Counsellor; his Pet.i.tion was granted, and had he ask'd for any thing else he might have had it.'

This officious Gentleman told me a great many other Particulars which let me into the very Chronicle of the Court of _Mersebourg_; but I don't trouble you with it, because the Truth is not to be told at all times.

My Equipage being ready, I set out for NAUMBOURG, where I arrived at Noon.

This City was formerly the See of a Bishop. Its ancient Cathedral is still standing, and tho' _Lutheran_, has a Chapter and Canons who must prove their n.o.bility both by the Father's side and Mother's side, by sixteen Descents. When this Bishop.r.i.c.k was seculariz'd it was said that no Catholic Prince could ever be possess'd of this State. Therefore when the last Duke of _Saxe-Zeits_, Administrator of _Naumbourg_, turn'd Catholic, the King of _Poland_ as eldest of the _Saxon_ Family and Executor of the _Pacta_ or Conventions made between the Princes of that Family, took possession of _Naumbourg_. The Duke's being reconciled to the _Lutheran_ Communion was to no purpose, the King did not restore his Dominions to him, but still possesses them, tho' he is more a Catholic than the Duke of _Zeits_ perhaps ever was. You know that this Prince has left a Nephew who wou'd have been his Heir, if he had not been a Catholic and a Priest. This is the Prince who, I acquainted you from _Dresden_, was Bishop of _Konigsgratz_ in _Bohemia_. He was born a _Lutheran_, as are all those of his Family. His Uncle the Cardinal of _Saxe_, Brother to the Duke of _Zeits_, made him embrace the Roman Catholic Religion when he was very young, and afterwards persuaded him to enter into Ecclesiastical Orders, by which step he deprived his Nephew of the glorious Prerogative of being a Sovereign Prince, and transferred his Rights to the King of _Poland_ his distant Cousin.

_Naumbourg_ is famous for its Fairs, which next to those of _Leipsic_, are the most considerable in _Saxony_. The Suburbs of this City are almost all Vineyards; but why, I know not, for the Wine is so detestably bad, that they give it away in a manner for nothing.

Finding nothing at _Naumbourg_ which was worth my while to stay there for, I only chang'd Horses and came hither. As one approaches this Place, we meet with Corn-Fields and Hop-Grounds instead of Vines, and the Country rises into Hills, so that one does not see the Town of WEIMAR till we are just upon it. The City, which is not more considerable than _Naumbourg_, is the Residence of the Duke of _Saxe-Weimar_, who has a Palace here which does not want for Magnificence, and tho' unfinish'd, has an air of Grandeur. The Connoisseurs in Architecture highly extol the grand Stair-Case there, which two Persons may ascend and descend at the same time without meeting one another, and yet always keeping each other in view. It consists of two Flights of Stairs upon one Spindle, laid one over the other in the same Well of a square Form. The Curious who have observ'd it, admire it, because there are few such to be seen.

The great Hall which is an oval, is beautiful, but not lightsome enough.

There are the Pictures of all the Dukes of _Saxe-Weimar_ at full length, from the first Duke that ever was down to the Father of the present. They are all drawn on Horseback, and done by no mean Hand.

In the same Palace is the Duke's Library, which tho' not very large, consists of sundry scarce Books. 'Tis open twice a week, when the Curious are not only permitted to peruse them, but even to borrow them, upon leaving a Note with the Librarian.

The Duke of _Weimar_ spends very little Time in his Capital, but commonly resides at a Seat which he has caus'd to be built about a League out of Town. He has given it the Name of _Belle-Vue_, because of the fine Prospect which it commands from the Apartments of the first Story. The House is small and not very commodious, so that the chief Beauty of it is its Situation, which is very charming. The Gardens which are begun upon very good Plans will be beautiful when finish'd, as well as the Pheasant-Walk and Menagerie where there are Turkeys and all sorts of Fowl.

The Duke of _Weimar's_ Name is _Ernest-Augustus_: He is the eldest of the _Ernestine_ Branch which lost the Electorate when _Charles_ V. was Emperor. He marry'd a Princess of _Anhalt-Cothen_, who I have been told, was a Lady of distinguish'd Merit. She died and left him a Son and three Daughters.

The young Prince is about ten Years of age[72]. He can neither hear nor p.r.o.nounce well, and is withal of a very tender Const.i.tution. The Physicians say it signifies nothing, and that as he grows up he will acquire a Freedom of Speech. But I question it, and am apt to think rather that those Disciples of _aesculapius_ will send him into the other World.

The only Hopes of any Male Issue of _Weimar_ are founded upon this Child.

The Duke of _Saxe-Eysenach_ who is the next a-kin has no Children; so that the Dominions of _Weimar_ and _Eysenach_ too are ready to devolve to the Family of _Saxe-Gotha_. The Duke of _Weimar's_ Subjects teaze him very much to marry, but the Prince does not seem to be in a Humour to satisfy them; for I have often heard him say that he can't bear the mention of Marriage.

No body presumes to go to _Belle-Vue_ without being sent for, except only on _Mondays_ when poor People are permitted to go thither with their Pet.i.tions which they deliver to the Secretary, and he gives them to the Duke. Persons of Quality, whether Foreigners or others, that have a mind to speak with the Duke, apply for it to the Marshal of the Court, but are seldom admitted to an Audience.

The Duke has rarely any other Company at _Belle-Vue_ but two young Ladies whom he calls his Maids of Honour, and three young Women, Citizens Daughters, who go by the Name of his Chamber-Maids; a Major of his Troops, and the Officer of his Guard, who is a Lieutenant or an Ensign. I had forgot to mention the Baron _de Bruhl_, who is the Duke's Favourite and his Master of the Horse.