The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume I Part 10

'Tis with these Persons that the Prince pa.s.ses his Time. He wakes early in the Morning, but makes it late before he rises; for he takes his Tea in Bed, and sometimes plays on the Violin. At other times he sends for his Architects and Gardeners, with whom he amuses himself in drawing of Plans.

His Ministers also come to him while he is in Bed to talk upon Business.

About Noon he gets up, and as soon as he is dress'd, sees his Guard mount, which consists of 33 Men, commanded by a Lieutenant or an Ensign. He exercises his Soldiers himself, and corrects them too when they commit any Fault. This done he takes the Air, and at two or three o'clock sits down to Table, where the two Maids of Honour, the Master of the Horse, the Major, the Officer of the Guard, and even Foreigners if any happen to be there, are of the Company. The Dinner holds a long while, and 'tis sometimes three, four, and five Hours before they rise from Table. The Gla.s.s never stands still hardly, and the Duke talks a great deal, but the Conversation is commonly on Subjects that are not very agreeable. When Dinner is over they drink Coffee, after which the Duke retires for a few Minutes, and then plays at Quadrille with his two young Ladies and the Major; but sometimes he does nothing but smoak Tobacco, and he often retires to his Chamber where he amuses himself with Drawing or else playing on the Violin till he goes to Bed.

There scarce a Week pa.s.ses but the Duke gives an Invitation at least once or twice to all the Persons of Quality of the Court, and all the Officers of his Troops, at which time there are two great Tables spread, where they dine, play, sup, and afterwards dance till next Day.

The Duke's Troops consist of a Battalion of 700 Men, a Squadron of 180 Troopers, and a Company of Cadets on horseback. His Infantry consists of pick'd Men. Since the famous _Bernard de Weimar_ who was Pensioner to _Lewis_ XIII. King of _France_, no Duke of _Weimar_ had so many Troops, and really they must be chargeable to the Duke whose Revenues 'tis said don't exceed 400000 Crowns. This Prince has made a Treaty with the King of _Poland_, whereby he engages to a.s.sist the King with his Battalion whenever his Majesty thinks it necessary for his Service; in which Case the King promises to give that Battalion the same Pay as he does his own Troops. Mean time the Duke is obliged to clothe them all according to the Pattern which is sent to him from _Dresden_; and indeed their Clothes are very rich, especially those of the Officers and Cadets, which are so bedaub'd with Gold and Silver Lace, that a Foreigner who comes to _Weimar_ cannot but admire it.

The Duke's Family is very numerous, for besides the Prince his Son and the three Princesses his Daughters, he has a Sister, and a Mother-in-law, who is a Princess of _Hesse-Hombourg_: Mean time he has a numerous Court, and may boast that some of them are Persons of very great Merit.

The Gentleman who is at the Head of Affairs is the Baron _de Reinbabe_, who has the t.i.tle of President of the Council of State. He is a Person of a good Family, in _Silesia_, has very great Abilities, and withal so much Good-nature and Modesty as are seldom to be met with. When he was young he travell'd very much abroad, where he learnt what was valuable in every Country that he came to. He speaks several Languages well, is a great Historian, a learned Civilian, and a good Poet. Notwithstanding the Business that goes thro' his Hands, and his Care of a numerous Family, he is always almost at his Studies, and never better pleas'd than when he is in his Library; yet he is no Enemy to Pleasures, but enjoys them without abandoning himself to them, and takes them as they fall in his way without pursuing 'em. To finish his Character I will add what was said of him by a Prince who knew him intimately: _If Probity was intirely lost in the rest of Mankind_, said he to me, _I think I shou'd be sure to find it again in the Baron_ de Reinbabe.

The Baron _de Schmiedel_ is Marshal of the Court and Director of the military Chest. He is a Person of great Piety, whose Aspect is not indeed the most engaging, yet a very good Man to have to do with. He is a sincere Friend, loves to do a kind Thing, is exact in the Duties of his Offices, an Enemy to Vice, and very much attach'd to the Interests of his Master, tho' he does not always please him because he has not the Talent of Dissimulation so necessary at Courts.

The Baron _de Studenitz_ a _Silesian_ is a Privy-Counsellor, and President of the Chamber. He was formerly in the Service of the Duke of _Saxe-Barbi_, and afterwards he enter'd into that of the Duke of _Saxe-Hilburgshausen_, whose Finances he directed for several Years, in which he acquired a Reputation, and came to _Weimar_ where he was continued in the same Employment. He is a Gentleman of very great Learning and Integrity, and having travell'd a long time in his Youth, very well knows how to carry himself.

M. _de Hering_ is of a n.o.ble Family in the Country of _Anhalt-Cothen_. He is the Duke's Aulic Counsellor, a Gentleman of Worth, and both Learned and Polite. He is on the point of leaving this Court, which will be a Loss to the Duke that he will not easily repair.

M. _de Bruhl_ the Duke's Master of the Horse and Favourite, is a _Saxon_.

His Birth, good Qualities, and especially his sweet Temper render him very worthy of a Sovereign's Favour. Yet I doubt whether, notwithstanding so much Merit, he has a firm Footing in the Duke's Friendship; he has too much Candor, too much Sincerity, and is too zealous to do Services; and perhaps also too much attach'd to the Interests and Honour of his Master: for tho' these Qualities have the Appearance of Virtues, yet they are sometimes Errors in the Eyes of Princes.

Thus, Sir, have I given you the Names of the most distinguish'd Persons at the Court of _Weimar_. I set out to-morrow for _Gotha_. I hope for a Line from you at _Wurtzbourg_, and don't propose to write again to you till I know whether you are living or dead.

_I am_, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER VII.

_SIR_, _Gotha, Sept. 9, 1732._

I set out from _Weimar_ at 5 o'clock in the Morning, and by eight was at _Erfurt_, where I walk'd about an Hour, and came at Noon to _Gotha_.

'Tis all a flat Country abounding with Corn. In time of Rain the Roads are so bad that sometimes it takes up a whole Day to come from _Erfurt_ to _Gotha_. ERFURT is a City belonging to the Elector of _Mentz_, is the Capital of _Thuringia_, and may be rank'd among those of the second Cla.s.s in _Germany_. Its Inhabitants are almost all _Lutherans_, yet the princ.i.p.al Churches belong to the Catholics. _Erfurt_ is fortified with good Ramparts, and by a Castle on a Hill which absolutely commands the Town. There is always a good Garison in the Place, which consists of the Emperor's Soldiers and those of _Mentz_; and the Elector has a Governor here with the t.i.tle of _Stadtholder_, who presides in the Regency.

GOTHA, which is not near so big as _Erfurt_, is a City situate in the middle of a fine fruitful Plain, so that which way soever one approaches it, one always perceives the Castle or Palace of the Duke, which stands on an Eminence by itself, and has a Prospect of a vast Extent of Country.

This Castle, which is one of the biggest in _Germany_, was built by _Ernest_ Duke of _Gotha_, surnamed the _Pious_; who caused both that and the Town to be encompa.s.sed with Ditches and Ramparts. To the Glory of this Prince, he undertook and finished these Great Works, at a time when _Germany_ was so impoverished by intestine Wars that few of its Princes were able to erect Palaces[73].

As of all the _Saxon_ Princes of the _Ernestine_ Branch, the Duke of _Gotha_ is the most powerful, so his Court is of all the _Saxon_ Courts next to that of _Dresden_, the most Numerous and the most Magnificent.

Nevertheless the Subjects of the Duke of _Gotha_[74] are the least burthen'd with Taxes of any in _Germany_. To this Prince's wise Management of his Finances is owing not only his own Happiness, but that of his People too, by whom he is ador'd; and really he treats them more like a Father, than a Sovereign; and never makes them sensible of his Power, but when he is to do them Justice. He is a kind good Master, easy of Access, temperate in his way of Living, gives very great Application to the Affairs of his Government, loves Reading, understands Books, and knows every thing which a Prince ought to be acquainted with. As to his Person, he is handsome and comely; is civil in his Deportment, but reserv'd; and therefore seldom speaks to Strangers, if he can help it; but endeavours first of all to know those he has Business with, and when he has found out their Character, talks with them upon such Subjects as he thinks they are best acquainted with. He keeps regular Hours, rises at seven o'clock, first spends an Hour in Prayer, and the reading of some pious Treatise; and then gets himself dress'd, and gives Audience to his Ministers, or to other Persons that desire it. At Noon he dines with the d.u.c.h.ess his Wife, the Princes his Children, and other Persons of Distinction; stays about an Hour and a half at Table, and then takes a Walk in the Gardens of the Palace, or if the Weather does not permit, he employs himself in his Closet, or spends the Time in reading till five o'clock. Then he goes to the House of some Person of Distinction at his Court where all the n.o.bility have an a.s.sembly, and plays at Ombre, after which he returns to his Palace, sups in the manner that he din'd, and at nine o'clock retires.

There is a Drawing-Room at Court three times a Week when the Company meets in a great Hall, where they make Parties at Ombre and Piquet. At seven o'clock a large Table is spread, which is free for all the Company. Then a Carver cuts up the Victuals, which are handed to that, and to all the Gaming-Tables that are cover'd with Napkins. Those who don't play may sit down at what Table they like best. The Duke, the d.u.c.h.ess, or the Princes, generally do Foreigners the Honour to admit them to their Table. During the Supper there is a Concert of Music, and at nine o'Clock all the Company retires.

The Duke by his Marriage with _Magdalen-Augusta_ of _Anhalt-Zerbst_, has seven Sons and two Daughters[75]: The eldest is the Hereditary Prince, who has been twice in _Paris_, and once in _Italy_, _England_, _Holland_, _Denmark_, _Sweden_, and at all the Courts of _Germany_, in which Travels he has acquir'd a great deal of Politeness and valuable Knowledge. I had the Honour of making my Compliments to him both at _Paris_, and the _Hague_, and found him of such a Temper as induces me to think that the Subjects of _Gotha_ will be as happy hereafter under his Government, as they are under that of the Duke his Father. He was lately married to his Cousin-German _Louisa-Dorothea_ of _Saxe-Meinungen_, a very lovely young Princess, who, with all her Graces and Charms, has abundance of Good-nature and Modesty[76].

The Duke has all the Great Officers common to other Sovereigns. The Count _de Ronaw_ is Great Marshal, and the chief Man at Court. They give him here the Character of Favourite; whether he is such I know not, but this I know, that he is not unworthy of it. I was very well acquainted with him at _Ratisbon_ in 1720; he was not then in any Place, and expressed a Friendship for me; and now that I see him here in a Post, I find him the same Man as at _Ratisbon_, always a Friend to his Friends; which for a Favourite is a very great Character.

The Duke's Revenues are computed at a Million of Crowns a year, with which he maintains near 3000 Men of regular Troops. His Family is large and his Livery fine; his Guards are very well cloath'd; his Table is serv'd with more Delicacy than Profusion; his Palace is well furnish'd; every body punctually paid; and no body dissatisfied.

I don't mention the Library to you, nor the Chamber of Rarities, because I am not yet well enough inform'd of such Things there as are worth observing. I propose to take another Round before I go hence, and shall not fail to transmit to you what Observations I shall make there. Mean time, I am, _&c._[77]

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER VIII.

_SIR_, _Wurtzbourg, Sept. 22, 1729._

When I came hither I had the very great Pleasure to find your Letters, and to hear that you enjoy perfect Health. Continue, I beseech you, to write to me; that being the only Means by which you can persuade me what I wish to be convinced of more than any thing in the World, that my Letters are acceptable to you.

I have been in one of the most disagreeable Roads in all _Germany_; and tho' the Country abounds with Provisions of all sorts, I had like to have been famished in the Public Houses.

From _Gotha_, I went to EYSENACH, thinking to pa.s.s a few Days at that Court, but I found the[78] Duke sick, and the Hereditary Prince and Princess[79] absent, so that I had only my Labour for my Pains.

As the Town of _Eysenach_ offers nothing at all to View which is worth a Traveller's Attention, I set out the same Day for FULDE, where I arrived the next. You know, that this City is the Capital of the Princ.i.p.ality of _Fulde_, the Sovereign of which is an Abbot, a Prince of the Empire, and Chancellor to the Empress. The present Sovereign is _Adolphus_ Baron of _Bahlberg_, who was chose by the Chapter of the Abbey Church in 1726, in the room of _Constantine_ Baron of _Buthler_, who died suddenly, and not without suspicion of Poison. _Fulde_ is a dirty little Town open on all sides, and has nothing remarkable but the Abbey Church, and the Prince's Palace, which are two Freestone Buildings that make a very grand Appearance. The Apartments of the Palace are very richly furnish'd. The last Abbot being a Man of good Understanding and great Views, caused this Palace to be so adorn'd as to demonstrate the Wealth of the Abbey.

The Prince Abbot has a Grand Marshal, a Master of the Horse, a Marshal of the Court, several Privy and Aulic Counsellors, a Number of Gentlemen, a Company of Horse-Guards well cloathed and well mounted, a Regiment of Foot Guards, eight Pages, a Number of Footmen, and several Sets of Horses. He gives a rich Livery, and in a word, his Houshold is spruce and magnificent. There are very few Sovereigns in _Germany_ whose Table is better served; for there is plenty of every thing, particularly delicious Wines, of which they tipple to such Excess that in a very little time they are not capable of distinguishing their Liquor. There are, I believe, the hardest Drinkers here in _Europe_; and I being on the other hand but a Milksop, thought that _Fulde_ was not a Country for me to pitch my Tent in. I dined with the Prince, went home drunk to my Quarters, slept sound, and next day set out for _Wurtzbourg_, where I am happily arriv'd after having gone through such horrible bad Ways, and met with such dismal Lodging, that I wish my Enemies were but condemned to travel this Road four times a Year.

Here I make myself amends for the Mortification which I met with coming hither. WURTZBOURG is a considerable City though not very large. The _Main_ divides it into two Parts. It is the Residence of the Prince Bishop of _Wurtzbourg_ Duke of _Franconia_. The Person who now enjoys that great Dignity is _Christopher-Francis de Houtten_[80]. He was elected by the Chapter to succeed _John Philip Francis_ Count de _Schonborn_, who was one of the greatest and most magnificent Prelates that perhaps ever fill'd the Episcopal See of _Wurtzbourg_. This Prince, in the five Years time that he has been Bishop, has done more things for the Embellishment of _Wurtzbourg_ than ten of his Predecessors put together. He has furnished one Part of the Town with new Fortifications, and has laid the Basis of a stately Palace, which will be one of the greatest, the compleatest and most regular Fabrics that we have in _Germany_; he having for that end consulted the most skilful Architects, and sent for the most celebrated Sculptors from _Italy_. As he was a pa.s.sionate Admirer of the Arts and Sciences, and perfectly understood them, especially Architecture; he chose the best Parts of all the Designs that were presented to him, and from them he compos'd the Plan of the Work, which was executed with such diligence that in four Years time two thirds of the Building were rooft.

His unexpected Death put a stop for a while to this Great Work. The present Bishop took it in hand again, but after having made considerable Alterations in those great and magnificent Projects, the Work advances so slowly that when it will be finished no body knows.

The deceased Bishop _Schonborn_ has also caused a Chapel to be built near the Metropolitan Church, which he has lined with very uncommon Marble brought for the purpose from _Italy_ at a very great Expence. Bra.s.s, Gilding, and every thing that can render a Chapel superb, has been employed in it in a very curious manner. This stately Edifice is as yet imperfect, and will require great Sums to finish it. As it was designed for the Burial-Place of the Bishop and his Family, it is to be presum'd that the House of _Schonborn_, now so rich and so powerful, will not suffer a Monument to lie unfinish'd which is to perpetuate the remembrance of its Grandeur.

The Great Hospital founded by a Bishop whose Name was _Julius_, is worth seeing. 'Tis a stately Building, which looks more like the Palace of a Prince than a Hospital. Four hundred Persons of both s.e.xes are maintained in it. There are two fine Halls which are particularly made use of upon _Holy Thursday_. In the one, the Bishop performs the Ceremony of washing the Feet of the Poor, who are afterwards sumptuously feasted in it; and in the other, he regales his Chapter, and all his Family.

The Castle stands upon an Eminence on the other side of the River which we pa.s.s over a Stone Bridge, adorn'd like that of St. _Angelo_ at _Rome_, with twelve fine Statues representing so many Saints. This Castle is a strong Place, and entirely commands the Town. The Form of it is quite irregular, it consisting of several Buildings erected by several Bishops.

Those Prelates always liv'd in it, till the last, who, while he was building a new Palace in the Town, lodged in a neighbouring Gentleman's House, from whence he could see how the Work went on. The Apartments of the old Castle are s.p.a.cious and n.o.ble. I found in them all that Furniture with which they were adorn'd for the Reception of the Archd.u.c.h.ess _Mary-Elizabeth_, when that Princess came to _Wurtzbourg_ in her way to the Government of the _Netherlands_. I have not seen richer Furniture at the Palace of any Prince of the Empire.

In this Castle there are two things that are well worth seeing; the a.r.s.enal and the Vault; the one full of all the Stores invented by _Mars_ and _Bellona_, for the Destruction of Mankind, and the other furnish'd with every thing to satiate the Thirst of an Army of Drunkards. If ever you come hither and should have the Curiosity to visit these Magazines of _Mars_ and _Bacchus_, I advise you to begin with the a.r.s.enal, especially if you can get some Courtier to go with you; for these Gentlemen, tho'

very civil, think, that the least thing which a Foreigner ought to do for them is to forfeit his Reason to them in this Vault. I am sure, I speak by dear Experience. Three days ago I told the Bishop that I had a mind to see the Castle. This Prince was so complaisant as to order one of his Gentlemen to go with me. My honest Companion fearing, 'tis like, that a Conversation _tete-a-tete_ would be too melancholy, chose two Topers to bear us Company, whom _Silenus_ would not have disown'd for his Children.

Being a stranger to the Virtues for which those Gentlemen were eminent, I put my self entirely under their Direction without the least Apprehension of my Misfortune. When they had shewed me the Apartments, the a.r.s.enal, Fortifications, and every thing, they carried me at last into the Vault, which I found illuminated like a Chapel wherein I was to lie in State; and indeed, my Funeral Obsequies were perform'd in Pomp, for the Gla.s.ses served instead of Bells, and Torrents of Wine gush'd out instead of Tears: At length, after the Service was over, two of the Prince's _Heydukes_ carry'd me to a Coach, and from thence to Bed; that was my Tomb. Yesterday I rose again, but scarce know at this Moment whether I am quite come to myself. 'Tis true that this does not give me much Concern, for ever since I have been here, I have followed the laudable Custom of getting drunk twice a day. You perceive that I am improv'd by my Travels, and that I am apt enough to learn the pretty Manners of the Countries where I make any Stay. I fancy that you will find me very much alter'd for the better. There is nothing that accomplishes a Man so much as travelling; judge you of this by the Life which I lead here.

I rise at ten o'clock, my Lungs very much inflam'd with the Wine I drank the Night before: I take a large Dose of Tea, dress myself, and then go to make my Compliments to the Bishop. The Baron _de Pechtelsheim_ the Marshal of the Court invites me to dine with the Prince: He promises, nay, and sometimes swears too that I shall not drink. At Noon we sit down to Table.

The Bishop does me the honour to drink two or three Healths to me. The Baron _de Zobel_, Master of the Horse, and the Baron _de Pechtelsheim_, toast the same number to me, and I am under a necessity of drinking to no less than fourteen Persons at the Table; so that I am drown'd in Liquor before I have din'd. When the Company rises, I wait on the Prince to his Chamber-Door, where he retires, and I think to do the same, but I find an Embargo put upon me in the Antichamber by the Master of the Horse, and the Marshal of the Court, who with great b.u.mpers in their Hands drink the Prince's Health to me, and _Prosperity for ever to the most laudable Chapter of +Wurtzbourg+_. I protest to them that I am the Bishop's most humble Servant, and that I have a very great Veneration for the most laudable Chapter, but that to drink their Healths wou'd destroy mine, and therefore I beg they wou'd excuse my pledging them; but I may as well talk to the Wind; these two Healths must be drank, or I shall be reckon'd no Friend to the Prince and his Chapter. If this were all my Task I shou'd be well off; but then comes M. _de Zobel_, one of the most intrepid Carousers of the Age, who squeezes me by the Hand, and with an Air and Tone of perfect Cordiality, says to me, _You love our Prince so well that you can't refuse drinking to the Prosperity of the ill.u.s.trious Family of +Houtten+_. And when he has made this moving Speech, he takes off a great Gla.s.s to witness his Zeal for the Life of his Master; after which an officious _Heyduke_ brings me a Gla.s.s, and being infected with the Goust that prevails at this Court, a.s.sures me that this Wine cannot possibly do me Harm, because 'tis the very same that the Prince drinks. By a Persuasion, founded on so just an Inference, I have the Courage to venture on t'other Gla.s.s, which is no sooner drank but I reel, and can drink no more; when in order to finish me M. _de Pechtelsheim_, one of the honestest Gentlemen living, but the staunchest Wine-bibber that I know, accosts me with a Smile and says, _Come_, dear Baron, _one Gla.s.s more to better Acquaintance_. I conjure him to give me Quarter, but he embraces me, kisses me, and calls me _Herr Bruder_, (his dear Brother.) How can a Man withstand such tender Compliments! At last I put myself in a fit Posture to run away; I sneak off, steal down the Steps as well as I can, and squeeze myself into a Sedan which carries me home; where my People drag me out like a dead Corpse, and fling me on a Bed, as if the next thing was to lay me out. I sleep three or four hours, awake in a perfect Maze, put myself to rights again, and prepare to make Visits, or to receive them; but whichsoever I do, I presently find my self in such a pickle again, that I cannot walk alone. There's no such thing as Conversation here betwixt one Friend and another without the Bottle; so that I am tempted to think the Inhabitants of this City are descended from _Silenus_, and that the old Sot left them the Faculty of hard drinking for a Legacy, as St. _Hubert_ bequeath'd to his Family the power of curing a Frenzy.

I din'd yesterday with the Reverend the _Scots Benedictine_ Fryars, who gave me a hearty Welcome, and an excellent sort of Liquor call'd _Stein Wein_, or Stone-Wine, probably because it grows on a Rock; which is the only time that I have departed from the Regimen I keep to here, I mean that I was not drunk. The House of these _Benedictines_ is one of the five Houses which form a sort of a Republic in their Order, and which, without depending on their General, chuse a President out of their number who has the direction of all their Affairs. These five Houses are in five different Towns, _viz._ at _Vienna_ in _Austria_, at _Ratisbon_, _Wurtzbourg_, at _Doway_ in _Flanders_, and at _Dieulegarde_, near _Pont-a-Mousson_ in _Lorrain_.

These _Benedictines_ put me in mind of the Reverend Fathers the _Jesuits_, who have a very fine House in this City: These are they who are Directors of the University, and instruct the Youth with a Zeal which cannot but confound their Enemies.

The Prince and Bishop lives in very great Splendor, and is one of the most powerful of our Spiritual Sovereigns. His Dominion includes seventy Bailywics, and his Country is the finest and fruitfullest in _Germany_.

The only thing that is scarce here is Money, and this is owing to their want of Trade, and to the great number of Monks and Priests who ingross all to themselves. The Bishop has 50000 Crowns a-year for his Privy-Purse.

The Chamber is oblig'd to maintain him in every thing. It furnishes his Wardrobe, his Table, and pays his Houshold and his Troops, which actually consist of 3500 Men, who are commanded by General _Eib_, the Governour of _Wurtzbourg_. In time of War the Bishop has no less than 10000.