The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume III Part 5

After a few days stay at _Leyden_, I went to the HAGUE[26], which I think may well be call'd the princ.i.p.al Village of _Europe_, it having neither Walls nor Ramparts; but bating that, 'tis one of the pleasantest Places in all _Holland_; it being so delightful that the States-General have chose it, preferably to any other, for holding their a.s.semblies; and here also reside the Ministers of the Foreign Courts. There is not a Place in all _Holland_ that yields such fine Walks, and the People are polite and much more sociable than in any other part of the Country. Most of the People of Quality meet every Evening alternately at one another's Houses: These a.s.semblies would be much finer than they are in general, if the Company was not so promiscuous; but the Freedom of the Country, and the Wealth of the Inhabitants, very often set the Burgher upon a Level with the Man of Quality, and sometimes too above him.

The Houses at the _Hague_ are very fine, yet they are all without the Rules of Architecture, without Ornament, and in a manner without Regularity, excepting the Palaces of the Old Court and of Prince _Maurice_, and the House of M. _Obdam_. There's not a House in short that has the air of a great Man's House; the inner Rooms are commonly very mean, and not very commodious; they have no Notion of Anti-Chambers; the Domestics pa.s.s their Time in the Kitchens or the Entries; and, except at the Houses of Amba.s.sadors, what we call a _Swiss_ or Porter, is no where to be seen. There's a great Number of _Jews_ at the _Hague_, who make a fine Figure, especially the _Portuguese Jews_. These Gentlemen have the Equipages of Amba.s.sadors, with magnificent Houses and Gardens; and they often make Treats with the utmost Delicacy and Splendor. They are admitted into all Companies, and only differ from the Christians of this Country by being possess'd of much more Wealth, and living at a far greater Expence.

I knew one of 'em whose Name was _Duliz_, that was very much esteem'd: He was good-natur'd, generous, extremely charitable, and reliev'd all indifferently that were Objects of Compa.s.sion, without giving himself the Trouble of enquiring whether the Sharers of his Bounty were _Jews_ or _Christians_: And to my own knowledge he contributed as freely for the Maintenance of a Church, as if it had been his own Synagogue.

When I had staid about a Month at the _Hague_, I set out to see the chief Towns of _Holland_. The two first that one comes to are DELFT and _Rotterdam_. _Delft_[27] is a League from the _Hague_. They say that this Town was built by _G.o.dfrey_ the _Crooked_ when he had conquer'd this Country; and that _Albert_ of _Bavaria_ having made himself master of it, demolish'd its Walls and Castle. It was entirely burnt to the ground by Accident in 1536, and afterwards re-built. The like Misfortune happen'd to it again in 1654, when the Powder Magazine took fire, and the Town, tho'

not totally consum'd, was nevertheless very much damag'd. It was again entirely re-built in the general Taste of all the Towns of _Holland_, that is to say, with Ca.n.a.ls. There are two fine Churches at _Delft_, in the Chief of which there is the Tomb of Prince _William_ of _Orange_, who was a.s.sa.s.sinated in this Town in 1584, by _Belthazar Gerard_, a Native of _Franche-Comte_; and in the other Church there is the Tomb of the famous _Dutch_ Admiral _Martin Trompe_, which is of Marble, with a very fine Inscription, and beautiful Ba.s.so-Relievo's, which represent the princ.i.p.al Actions of that great Man. 'Twas in this Town, that the Plenipotentiaries of _France_ resided during the Congress of _Ryswic_. All Amba.s.sadors are receiv'd here on the part of the States, and 'tis here that they begin their March for their public Entry at the _Hague_. The Road which leads to it is lin'd with Elms, and entirely pav'd with Brick. There is not a Place in all _Holland_ where so many Pa.s.sage-Boats are continually coming and going. They set out every Half-hour for the _Hague_, and every Hour for _Rotterdam_. These Boats are the favorite Carriers of the Country; and they are the most convenient Pa.s.sage, not only for the Regularity of their Departure and Arrival, but because the Fare is settled. I forgot to tell you, that _Delft_ is the Place where they make the fine Earthen Ware.

From _Delft_ I went and lay at ROTTERDAM[28]. This City, which stands upon the _Maese_, is second to _Amsterdam_ for Trade, notwithstanding the Difficulty of entring the _Maese_, at the Mouth of which River Ships are oblig'd to stay for the Tide, and for a Pilot that knows the Coast. They say that _Rotterdam_ derives its Origin from _Ruther_ King of the _Franks_. This City is large and well built; and by its several Ca.n.a.ls has a convenient Communication with all the Towns of _Holland_. The only Monument at _Rotterdam_ is a Statue of Bra.s.s in the great Square, representing the famous _Erasmus_, to whom this City gave Birth.

From _Rotterdam_ I went to DORT, or DORDRECHT, which is a very ancient Town, and the first in Rank in the Dominions of _Holland_. It stands in an Island between the _Maese_, the _Merwe_, the _Rhine_, and the _Ling_, having been broke off from the main Land in 1421, by an Inundation, which laid almost all its Territory under Water, and drown'd about 100,000 Persons. All these Rivers form a kind of Sea; so that at a distance the Situation of this Town looks very much like that of _Venice_. This Place was anciently the Residence of the Counts of _Holland_, one of whom, _viz._ _Albert_ of _Bavaria_, founded a Collegiate Church here in 1363.

The Protestants a.s.sembled that famous National Synod here in 1618, which did not separate till the year following, after having establish'd that Religion which prevails at this time in the United Provinces.

When I had staid at _Dort_ as long as was necessary to see the Town and Parts adjacent, I return'd to _Rotterdam_, from whence I went next day in a Boat for AMSTERDAM[29]. This is the most famous City in all _Holland_, its Extent, vast Trade and Riches being the Admiration of all Foreigners; and what is more surprizing is, that it owes its Aggrandizement to itself, and its great Wealth to its Commerce. 'Tis said that this City was not known before the Year 1204; and that then it was no more than a little Castle call'd _Amstel_, from the Name of the River on which it was built.

The then Lord of it, _Gysbrecht van Amstel_ brought Inhabitants to it, who were for most part poor Cottagers, that carried on a small Trade with their Neighbours by means of their Fishery; and at last by the force of Industry throve so well, that _Amstel_ from a Village, became in a few years, a very considerable Town, which was always subject to its own Lords, till a second _Gysbrecht_ being concern'd in the a.s.sa.s.sination of _Florence_ V. Count of _Holland_, was oblig'd for some time to get out of the way, which prov'd to the Detriment of _Amsterdam_; but _Gysbrecht_ returning at length began to build Bridges and Towers, as he did several Houses at the same time in the neighbouring Country; and then they began to call the Place _Amsteldam_, by the Addition of the Word _Dam_, i. e. a _d.y.k.e_, to its former Name of _Amstel_. This little Town was united afterwards to the County of _Holland_. _William_ IV. Sovereign of the Country, gave it several Privileges in 1342. These _Albert_ of _Bavaria_ confirm'd afterwards, by giving the Inhabitants a Power also of enlarging the Town, which by its Situation, and the Industry of the Inhabitants to improve its Commerce, soon became considerable; yet it continued without any Walls, even so long as the Year 1482. In the 16th Century this City increas'd considerably in Power; and during the Troubles which arose on account of Religion, took great Care to preserve the Catholic Religion, and their due Allegiance to its Princes. It turn'd out the Ministers of the Reformed Religion, and all that had embrac'd that Doctrine several times. But at length finding its Trade decay; and that the Succours brought to it by the Duke of _Alva_, Governor of the _Netherlands_, were scatter'd, 'twas oblig'd to surrender to the Prince of _Orange_ in 1587, on condition nevertheless that the Catholics should not be molested. This indeed was promis'd, but not duly perform'd; for the Clergy and Friars were soon after expell'd, and the Altars demolish'd; the consequence of which was the putting an entire stop to all the public Exercise of the Catholic Religion. The War which the Inhabitants of _Amsterdam_ had upon their hands, and the Persecution of the Catholics had hurt its Trade very much, till the Civil Wars kindled in the neighbouring Provinces drove several Merchants from _Brussels_, _Antwerp_, _&c._ to _Amsterdam_, where these new Citizens contributed so much to the Revival of its Commerce, that they have render'd it one of the finest and richest Cities in Being; and 'tis commonly call'd, _The Warehouse of the World_.

If the Situation of _Amsterdam_ be duly considered, it may be said to be one of the Wonders of the World. It stands so low, that it wou'd be continually in danger of being drown'd, were not the Water kept out by d.y.k.es as high as the Waves. The River _Amstel_, so gentle that one can hardly perceive which way it runs, pa.s.ses thro' the whole City, and forms the great Ca.n.a.l over which there are two Bridges. That which is at the Mouth of the Sea, call'd the _Pont-neuf_, is one of the finest of the kind, not only for its Sluices, but for the n.o.ble View there is from thence of the Harbor, where Ships are continually going out or coming in from all parts of the World. Besides the Great Ca.n.a.l, there are others which deserve to be taken notice of, as, _The Emperors_ Ca.n.a.l, _The Lords_ Ca.n.a.l; that of the _Cingle_, and the _Princes_ Ca.n.a.l: All these Ca.n.a.ls are broad and deep, and furnish'd with great Kays. The Sides are fac'd with Free-stone or Brick, and adorn'd with Lime-Trees and Elms. Very fine Houses are built on most of these Kays, and especially upon the Kay of _The Lords_ Ca.n.a.l; and new ones are building every day, which are very beautiful; and tho' they are small, and not in the Rules of Architecture, have a certain Air of Neatness which is to be found no where else. Almost all the Houses have very fine Steps of shining black Marble, and n.o.ble Window-Frames, with very fine Panes, which are often of polish'd Gla.s.s.

The Streets of _Amsterdam_ are generally pretty narrow, yet very fine and neat; and on certain Days of the Week great Care is taken to wash them. I must tell you by the way, that there is not a place where the People are so fond of washing as they are at _Amsterdam_; for they scour the inside of their Houses every Week without fail, together with the Furniture of the Kitchen; so that they are always in the Suds. 'Tis true, that without this Care every thing would grow mouldy and spoil, as Foreigners have very often experienc'd, who, how loth soever to comply with this sort of Slavery, which they thought only the Fashion of the Country, were soon oblig'd to submit to it: And I believe, that were it not for this Necessity of always washing, the _Dutch_ wou'd not lose so much Time about it; for in other respects I have not observ'd 'em so nice. These People wear a Shirt for a Fortnight very well under a nasty, greasy Woollen Waistcoat: and their manner of eating is as slovenly; for the Generality know no Forks but their Fingers, wherewith they scoop up the Sallad swimming in the Vinegar, which is commonly their favorite Dish[30].

Of all the Public Buildings at _Amsterdam_, the Stadt-house is certainly the most magnificent. 'Tis a great Pile built of Free-stones very finely set, and forms a long Square. The 7 Porticoes which are in the main Front, and which the Architect has reduc'd to the number of 7, to denote the 7 United Provinces, are look'd upon as a defect in Architecture; for they are so narrow, that three Persons can scarce walk a-breast in them: which indeed is contrary to the Rules of Architecture, but yet no Fault in a Building, which like the Stadt-house is frequently expos'd to the Rage and Riots of a People as turbulent as the _Amsterdamers_. These seven Porticoes lead to two Gates at the Foot of the Grand Stair-Case. I don't pretend, _Madame_, to give you all the particular Beauties of this Structure, being not acquainted enough with the Rules, or even the Terms of Architecture, to presume to enter into any Description of this nature; therefore I shall confine my self to what most strikes the Eye.

The Pediment of the princ.i.p.al Front was to my mind well fancy'd. 'Tis adorn'd with a Relievo of white Marble, in which a Woman is represented supporting the Arms of the City. There is also a _Neptune_, some Figures of Heroes, Lions, Unicorns, and the whole is of admirable Workmanship.

This Pediment is crown'd with three fine Statues of Bra.s.s, which denote Justice, Power and Plenty. On the very Top of this whole Building there's a Tower in form of a Dome. Here is a very fine Clock with Chimes, which are a pretty Amus.e.m.e.nt for such as are fond of that sort of Music.

The Inside of this House is every part of it very magnificent. The Chamber where they pa.s.s Sentence on Criminals is lin'd throughout with Marble, and adorn'd with Ba.s.so-Relievo's, representing all the Emblems and Attributes of Justice. That which is most admir'd there is a fine Marble Statue representing _Themis_. This Room is rais'd very high, and a little too dark; yet 'tis so contriv'd, that all the People in the Square may see the Criminals try'd. The three Porticoes at the Entrance answer to the three Windows of this Hall, which Windows instead of Gla.s.s, have n.o.ble Bars of Bra.s.s curiously wrought.

The Great Hall is another stately Room, to which there's an Ascent by a large Stair-Case with two Flights. All the Walls are lin'd with Ba.s.so-Relievo's of Marble, intermix'd with fine Paintings. There are two Galleries or Corridors at the two ends of the Hall, which lead to Apartments on the right and left. In these Chambers are kept the several Offices relating to Affairs of the City. The Jurisdiction or Province of each Chamber is inscrib'd over the Door; and the Affairs there treated, are represented in magnificent Ba.s.so-Relievo's. In one of these Rooms, such Persons as are not of the Reform'd Religion are oblig'd to be married before the _Echevin_, or else they are condemn'd in a Fine; and according to the Laws, their Marriage is to be reckon'd null and void.

In the Town-House is kept the famous Bank, which is the Repository of such a vast Treasure. Prodigious Arches and huge double Bars of Iron before the Windows, render it inaccessible. The Vaults are admirable, being built upon Piles in the middle of the Water, and yet so dry as if they were cut out of a Rock. One part of these Vaults serves for containing the immense Wealth, the other for confining Criminals. I had the Curiosity to go and see those Dungeons, which are all very lightsome and kept very neat; and in spite of the Proverb, they may be said to be very fine Prisons.

After I had been at the Town-House, I went to visit the Square where the Merchants a.s.semble about the Affairs of their Trade from Noon till half an Hour past one o'clock. This Square, which is longer than 'tis broad, is surrounded with a large open Gallery or Corridor, supported by Free-stone Pillars, for shelter in case of Rain; and is call'd the _Bourse_ or _Exchange_. Here are Merchants of all Nations, the diversity of whose Habits and Languages is as pleasing as the Beauty of the Place; and especially the Hurry those People are in that are call'd _Brokers_, who are the Men employ'd by the great Merchants to traffick the Bills of Exchange, or to transact their other Affairs. To see them scowering from one to the other all about this Square, there's no body but wou'd think they were mad.

The _India_-House and Admiralty-Office are also worth seeing. The first serves as a Warehouse for laying up such Merchandize as comes from the _Indies_. In the latter there is all the necessary Rigging for fitting out a Fleet to Sea. The _India_ Company have their separate a.r.s.enal, which is in nothing inferior to that of the States. In this City there are Hospitals also of every Kind very well maintain'd, and Houses of Correction for both s.e.xes. _Amsterdam_ is the Place of Refuge for Sects of all Denominations, who have their several Chappels or Chambers there, wherein they exercise their Religion, but the _Calvinists_ and _Lutherans_ only are allow'd the Liberty of Public Worship. However the _Jews_ have two fine Synagogues here; the one for the _German_, and the other for the _Portuguese_ Nation. Of this Sect there are great Numbers, and they live in a particular Quarter, which is not the most inconsiderable of the City.

But notwithstanding all this Magnificence of Buildings, and the Concourse of so many Nations, I was quite out of conceit with _Amsterdam_. Every body sticks to Trade, and the Gratification of their Avarice is their whole Study. The Generality with their immense Wealth live like Misers; and all their Happiness, their Pleasure and their Pride consists in having a great deal of Money: They think of nothing but how to acquire Riches; and they look upon every Man that lives genteelly as a Prodigal. As to the _Dutch_ Freedom, I don't believe there's a Place where it bears greater Sway than at _Amsterdam_. 'Tis true, that this so much boasted Liberty serves very often but to render the Citizens insolent with Impunity; for there is not a Scrub but thinks himself as good a Man as the best in the Country: Foreigners have sometimes much ado to bear it, they being often abus'd without daring to complain; for it costs so much to obtain Justice here, that People had rather put up with an Insult, than seek a Remedy by due Course of Law. The Attorneys and Solicitors of this City outdo those of all other Countries in flattering their Clients to their Ruin, and most of this Gentry cut a great Figure, have n.o.ble Houses and Gardens, and some too have very spruce Equipages.

From _Amsterdam_ I went to HARLEM[31], which is but three Leagues.

Heretofore, while the Catholic Religion subsisted in this Country, it was a Bishopric, Suffragan of _Utrecht_. The Town stands but a League from the Sea, or rather upon its Sh.o.r.e, the Sea having overflow'd a considerable part of the Country, which forms a Lake, now call'd the _Harlem Meer_, or Sea of _Harlem_. This Town communicates by its Ca.n.a.ls both with _Amsterdam_ and _Leyden_. They pretend it was founded by the _Normans_ in the ninth Century. Pope _Paul_ IV. erected it into a Bishopric in 1559, at the Request of _Philip_ II. King of _Spain_. In 1572 the Bishop was turn'd out by the Protestants, not long after which the Town was besieg'd and taken by _Frederic_ of _Toledo_ Son to the Duke of _Alva_, who oblig'd the Inhabitants to surrender at Discretion, and caus'd them to be treated in the most barbarous manner in the World. The _Dutch_ retook it afterwards, and have held it ever since. There are very fine Walks in this City, and especially a Grove which is deem'd a charming Place by the Citizens of _Amsterdam_, who come hither in the Summer to make their Parties of Pleasure.

After having seen what was most remarkable at _Harlem_, I return'd by the way of _Leyden_ to the _Hague_, where I had not been many days, before the King arriv'd, having pa.s.s'd the same day before _Rotterdam_, where he had been saluted with a triple Discharge of the Cannon, as he was also at _Delfshaven_, where he found his Yatcht, follow'd by several others that had been sent to him from the _Hague_. These attended the King to _Delft_, where his Coaches staid for him, with which he came to his Palace of the _Old Court_.

There he found a Guard of fourscore Men, with a Captain and a Pair of Colors. His Majesty caus'd his Arrival to be immediately notify'd to the President of the a.s.sembly of the States-General, and next day, after Sermon time, he receiv'd the Deputation from the said States, consisting of nine Members, who when they arriv'd at the King's Palace found the Guard under Arms, Colors flying, and the Drum beating, and were receiv'd at the bottom of the Stairs by the Grand Marshal and several Gentlemen of the Chamber, and introduc'd into the King's Bed-chamber, who receiv'd them bare-headed and standing before an Arm-Chair. As the Audience was only to compliment his Majesty upon his Arrival, it was very short; and the States returning to the usual Place of their a.s.sembly, went afterwards and din'd with the King.

Some days after this his Majesty set out for _Honslaerdyk_, a Place two Leagues from the _Hague_, which he enjoy'd by Inheritance from the late K.

_William_ of _England_. Thither I follow'd the King, who staid there till he had receiv'd Advice, that the Prince of _Na.s.sau_, Governor of _Friseland_, was to come from the Army in _Flanders_ to the _Hague_, there to make an end of the Differences betwixt him and his Majesty about the Succession to the Family of _Orange_, of which that Prince took the t.i.tle, by virtue of the last Will and Testament of the late King of _England_, the last Prince of the said Family. The King had been expecting him for some days, when a Courier arriv'd with the News, that the Prince was drown'd in the Pa.s.sage of the _Moerd.y.k.e_. Having embark'd there with his Retinue to pa.s.s the _Stryen-Sas_, he was not got above thirty or forty Paces from Sh.o.r.e, when a furious Gust of Wind arose, by which the Vessel was overset and lost. As the Sea swell'd at the same time, and the Prince knew not how to swim, he could not get ash.o.r.e. Colonel _Hilkes_ who accompanied him was drown'd with him, and none but his Domestics escap'd.

The unfortunate Prince was seen to hang by the Mast of the Vessel for some Moments, and there were some hopes of relieving him, had it not been for a Wave, which drove by a Blast of Wind carried him off from the piece of Wood he clung to, and cast him away. The Body of this Prince, who was very much regretted, was not found till about a Week after, in the very same place where the Vessel happen'd to be cast away. 'Twas carried to _Dort_ where 'twas embalm'd, and then remov'd to _Lewarden_, there to be interr'd in the Tomb of his Family.

The King was the more afflicted at this sad Accident, because the News was told him too hastily, by a foolish Courier, who, for want of knowing his Master's Temper, thought that the News of the Prince of _Friseland_'s Death wou'd not be disagreeable to him; but the King gave public Demonstration how sorry he was for his Loss, and sent a Gentleman of the Bed-chamber to the last Princess-Dowager of _Na.s.sau_, to a.s.sure her how much he sympathiz'd in her loss.

The Death of the Prince of _Friseland_ interrupted the whole Treaty of Accommodation. The said Prince left a Daughter, and the Princess his Wife pregnant, who wrote to the States to desire them not to do any thing in prejudice of the Infant of whom she hoped to be deliver'd; and that as they were Executors Testamentary, they would preserve the Bulk of his Inheritance entire; and that otherwise she openly protested against every thing that might be done. This Demand did not hinder the States from granting the King a provisional Portion; and it was agreed, that his Majesty, as well as the Heirs of the Prince of _Na.s.sau_, now deceas'd, should be paid 150000 _Dutch_ Florins a year, out of the Estate of the _Orange_ Family: That the Palaces of Prince _Frederic-Henry_, of which the King was already in Possession, shou'd continue his; but that the _Dieren_ Palace shou'd be common both to the King and the Prince's Heirs; and that the rest should be referr'd to a definitive Accommodation, which is the Thing that still remains to be done. I had the Honor to pay my Court punctually all the Time that his Majesty spent at the _Hague_; and when he set out, I went with him to _Dieren_, where I took leave of the King, little thinking 'twou'd be the last Time I should see him.

I went thro' DUSSELDORFF[32], the Capital of the Duchy of _Berg_, which was then the Residence of the Elector _Palatine_, who, it must be noted, was the first of the _Palatine_ Electors that liv'd here; for the Electors commonly resided heretofore at _Heidelberg_ or _Manheim_. The Elector _John-William_ had preferred _Dusseldorff_ to all other Places, from an early liking that he took to that Town, of which he was Master, even in the Life-time of the Elector his Father; who when he married his Son to the Emperor _Leopold_'s Sister, yielded to him the Duchies of _Juliers_ and _Berg_, of which _Dusseldorff_ is the Capital City, and wou'd have been one of the finest in _Germany_, if the Emperor had liv'd long enough to put the great Projects which he had form'd in execution. This Prince had already begun to augment the City with one entire Quarter, the Streets whereof were as strait as a Line; and I saw the Plan of a new Palace that he intended to build, which wou'd certainly have been one of _Europe_'s Grand Structures. As to that now at _Dusseldorff_, the only beautiful part of it is that call'd the Gallery; tho' why it has that Name I can't imagine, since nothing resembles a Gallery less. It contains five Rooms, three of which are much bigger than the others. One of these Rooms is quite full of magnificent Paintings by the famous _Rubens_. In another there's a great number of Paintings by _Van der Werf_, a _Dutch_ Painter who died lately at the _Hague_. If a Man has ever so little Taste or Skill in Painting, 'tis impossible for him to be indifferent for such Pictures, which may be said to be all Master-pieces. Such are those representing the good old Man _Simeon_ holding the Savior of the World in his Arms; our Lord teaching in the Temple; and the Pictures of the Elector and Electoress, in two particular Rooms of the first Story of this Gallery, are the Models of the most magnificent Statues of _Italy_, sent for by the Elector from all parts of that Country at a vast Expence. The three others are full of modern Statues of Marble and Bra.s.s, which are for the most part done by the famous _Gripilli_ an _Italian_, and an excellent Artist, especially for Busts that require a Likeness.

In the Court-yard of the Palace there's an Equestrian Statue of the Elector arm'd cap-a-pee, with the Electoral Bonnet on his Head, and mounted upon a very fine Horse of yellow Copper. In the same Court there is likewise a very fine Fountain, the Group of which is of Bra.s.s very curiously wrought, but so inc.u.mber'd with Works of different Kinds, that 'tis difficult to distinguish them.

Five Leagues from _Dusseldorff_ there's a Hunting-Seat call'd _Bensberg_[33], which is built in a Forest on a Hill, from whence there's a fine Prospect of the City of _Cologne_, the _Rhine_, and all the flat Country. To this Castle there's a large Avenue, by a gradual Ascent, till one comes to the Grate of the first Court, on each side whereof there's a large Guard-House, the Front of which forms a Gallery supported by Pillars of grayish Marble, which is dug in this Country. The rest of this Seat has very much the air of the Castle of _Versailles_, only 'tis not so large or lofty. In the two Wings of this Building, there are two Stair-Cases which lead to the Apartments. 'Tis plain that this Structure was design'd entirely by an _Italian_; because, according to the Fashion of that Country, the Apartments consist of a great number of Rooms all upon one Floor too, but without any Closets or Conveniencies. The outside of this Structure is the oddest thing in the World. It consists of numberless Ornaments, which 'tis impossible to distinguish: And I think it no Injustice to the Castle of _Bensberg_, to say, 'tis a n.o.ble fine House full of Imperfections.

After having given you an Account of the Elector's several Buildings, I fancy, _Madame_, that some short Memoirs of his Family will not be disagreeable to you. To be sure you are not ignorant, that the Succession of the _Neubourg_ Family to the Dignity of Elector _Palatine_, is owing only to the Extinction of the Protestant _Palatine_ Family, the last of which was the Elector _Charles_, who left but one Sister, married to MONSIEUR _Philip_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_ XIV.

_Philip-William_ Duke of _Neubourg_, the Father of him whom I have had the Honor of mentioning to you, was the first Elector of this Branch. This Prince, who had a numerous Family, match'd them to the chief Crowns of _Europe_, and he had no less than four Princes and five Princesses.

The eldest of the Princes was the Elector _John-William_ of _Neubourg_, who married to his first Wife an Archd.u.c.h.ess of _Austria_, Sister to the Emperor _Leopold_, by whom he had no Issue. He married to his second Wife _Anne-Mary-Louisa_ of _Medicis_, Daughter to _Cosmo_ III. Great Duke of _Tuscany_; but having no more Issue by this Match than by the former, he took the Hereditary Prince of _Sultzbach_ to his Court, where he was brought up as the Heir of his Family, in case that himself and the Princes his Brothers died without Male Issue. This young Prince was then look'd upon as the Electoral Prince, and receiv'd all the Honors as such. The Person who had the Care of his Education was the Baron _de Seckingen_; and it may be said, that he did his utmost to make a great Prince of him.

The second was _Charles-Lewis_, now the Elector.

The third _Francis-Lewis de Neubourg_, Elector of _Triers_ and Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ Order.

The fourth _Alexander-Sigismond_, Bishop of _Augsbourg_.

The Princesses were all married. The eldest, whose Name was _Eleonora-Magdalena-Theresa_ of _Neubourg_, married the Emperor _Leopold_, Father to the present Emperor, and died _Jan. 19, 1719_, aged 74.

The second was married to the King of _Portugal_.

The third, nam'd _Mary-Anne_ of _Neubourg_, was married to _Charles_ II.

King of _Spain_.

The fourth, _Dorothy_ of _Neubourg_ was married to the Duke of _Parma_, by whom she had among other Children Princess _Elizabeth Farnese_, the second Wife of _Philip_ V. King of _Spain_.

The fifth and last of these Princesses, _Hedwiga-Elizabeth_ of _Neubourg_, was married to _James-Lewis Sobieski_, by whom she had _Clementina Sobieski_, Wife to the Chevalier _de St. George_. The Mother died at _Olaw_ the 10th of _August_ 1722, aged 50.

After having pa.s.s'd some time at the _Palatine_ Court, I set out about the middle of _August_ for _Francfort_ on the _Main_, where I arriv'd a few days before the opening of the Conferences for the Election of an Emperor.

FRANCFORT[34] is one of the most considerable Towns of all _Germany_, has the t.i.tle of an Imperial City, and is a part of the Diocese of _Mentz_.

'Tis divided into two parts by the _Main_, over which there is a fine Stone Bridge. The frequent Fires which this City has suffer'd, and especially that of 1719, have contributed not a little to its Embellishment, all the Houses being re-built in a better Taste than before; yet most of the Buildings are still of Timber and fac'd with Plaister that is color'd, few private Men having been at the Expence of building with Stone. _Francfort_ may thank the _Jews_ for most of those Fires; for the _Jews_ who are very numerous here, live in a Quarter by themselves, which is shut up every Night; and being so narrow, that they are straiten'd for Room, they are oblig'd to lie in Heaps as it were upon one another, in very high Houses, which being moreover of Timber, easily catch Fire. They have seen their whole Quarter in Ashes twice successively, because they refus'd the a.s.sistance they might have had to extinguish the Flames; for they never wou'd open their Gates for fear of being robb'd, unless when they saw that the People were going to break them open by Force. Notwithstanding all the Reasons for not suffering them at _Francfort_, they have a better Toleration than the _Calvinists_, and have fine Synagogues; whereas the _Calvinists_ do not enjoy the free Exercise of their Religion, the Magistrates and most of the Inhabitants being _Lutherans_.

The City of _Francfort_ is one of the first that embrac'd the Opinions of _Luther_, which presently occasion'd a Revolt: For the Inhabitants demanding the free Exercise of _Lutheranism_, and the Clergy and Senate vigorously opposing it, there was an Insurrection, in which the Inhabitants having the Advantage, they depos'd the Senate, and establish'd a sort of Magistracy compos'd of twenty-four, taken from the Body of the Populace. These Acts of Violence had such fatal Consequences, that at last in 1530 the City embrac'd the Confession of _Augsbourg_, enter'd into the League of _Smalcald_, and had a share in the other Calamities which afflicted the Empire. 'Twas besieg'd twice in 1552, by _Maurice_ Elector of _Saxony_, and by _Albert_ Margrave of _Brandenburg_, surnam'd the _Alcibiades_ of _Germany_, who made himself Master of it; but it soon after recover'd its Liberty, and since that time has increas'd very much.

The Elections and Coronations of the Emperors render it a very considerable Place. These two Grand Ceremonies are perform'd in the Church of St. _Bartholomew_, which is a vile, little, dark Building, very improper, in short, for Solemnities of that sort. The Imperial Feast is kept on the very Day of the Coronation, in the Great Hall of the Town-house, which is indeed a very wide but irregular Room. The Town-house is called _Romer_: They say 'twas anciently the House of a private Gentleman, who made a Present of it to the City. If that be true, it may be said the Gentleman liv'd at large.

This City has considerable Fairs, which draw a great Number of Merchants to it and People of Quality. The River _Main_ which falls into the _Rhine_ near _Mentz_, is a great Advantage to its Commerce. This, _Madame_, is within a Trifle all that can be said of _Francfort_. I am now to have the Honor of giving you a particular Account of the chief Circ.u.mstances that attended the Election and Coronation of the Emperor.

The Conferences for the Election were open'd on the 25th of _August_, and held from nine o'clock in the Morning till Noon. The Plenipotentiaries of the absent Electors therein communicated their full Powers, and referr'd them to the Elector of _Mentz_, who afterwards made a Speech upon what had given occasion to that August a.s.sembly. In this first Session it was resolv'd, that every thing there treated of shou'd be kept secret; and then they adjourn'd.

The March of the Electors of _Mentz_ and _Triers_ to and from the Town-house was very grand. The first was _Lotharius-Francis de Schonborn_, of the Family of the Counts of _Schonborn_; and the second was _Charles-Joseph de Lorrain_, who was of the _Lorrain_ Family, and died in 1715, on the 4th of _December_. These two Princes rode each in a great Coach, cover'd with black Cloth, attended by all their Houshold and Guards in close Mourning.

The Equipages of the Amba.s.sadors of the absent Electors were very spruce, especially the Equipages of the Amba.s.sadors of _Saxony_, who had also the Honor to have with them their Master's Son, who went by the Name of the Count of _Lusatia_. Besides, the King of _Poland_ had given them his own Equipage, and permitted them to cloath their Domestics in his Livery.

The Amba.s.sadors whom the King (of _Prussia_) sent in quality of Elector of _Brandenburg_, appear'd likewise with a Splendor worthy of the Prince whom they represented. They were the Count _de Dlona_ and M. _Henning_; but the former had the Honors of the Emba.s.sy. This Minister appear'd with a Train of 40 Gentlemen of the King's Bed-chamber; he had 5 Coaches drawn by 6 Horses each, 8 Pages, 36 Footmen and 2 _Swiss_. M. _Henning_, who was appointed to attend to the Business, had not the Satisfaction to see the Success of these a.s.semblies; for having in the very first Session spoke with great Zeal for the Interests of his Country, he heated himself to such a degree, that he found himself out of Order when he came home; and that very Night he had a Fit of an Apoplexy of which he died next day. The Count _de Metternich_ was appointed to supply his Place. No body was fitter to serve the King in the a.s.sembly at _Francfort_ than this n.o.bleman, who had in several Emba.s.sies acquir'd a great Knowledge of the Affairs of the Empire; and particularly in the Emba.s.sy at _Ratisbon_, in which he was employ'd a long time.

As soon as the Conferences were open'd, the Foreign Ministers, _viz._ the Pope's Nuncio, the Envoys of _Savoy_ and of the other Princes of _Italy_, the Envoy Extraordinary of the States-General, and those of the Princes of the Empire, notify'd their Arrival to the Electoral College, and sent their Credentials to the Chancery, which was kept at the Palace of the Elector of _Mentz_, that Prince being by Birth Chancellor of the Empire.