The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume III Part 4

The King's Palace is also very magnificent; and the whole is so majestic, that it appears at the first sight to be the Residence of some great Monarch. Yet there's one fault in it, which is, that Uniformity has not been nicely observ'd in it, because it has been carry'd on by Fits and Girds, and every Architect has followed his particular Plan.

This Palace consists of four large Buildings, which forms in the middle a Court that is not so broad as 'tis long. The first Thing in the main Front is a great high Portico with two Gates Arch-wise on the two sides. The Proportions of the Columns and the Height of the Portico were copy'd from _Constantine_'s Triumphal Arch at _Rome_. On the two sides of the Portico there are twelve great Transom Windows encompa.s.s'd with Ornaments. The Fronts that are on the side of the Court are much more magnificent than the outer ones, but then they are more irregular. The Inside of the Palace is not executed much better. Two Grand Stair-Cases lead to the Guard-Room, the one on the Right and the other on the Left of the Entry. The Stair-Case on the Left-hand is of a particular Contrivance, being in form of a Glacis without any Step, so that a Coach may go up to it. The Guard-Room is long but narrow, and has no Light but what comes from the Windows on the Cupola over the Stair-Case. The Entry is in the middle.

There is a Turning on the Left to enter into the King's Apartment, which shews at first sight three Chambers in a Row. The third of these Rooms separates the least Apartment from the greatest, of which the former is on the Right and the latter on the Left. I will only speak to you of the last, which is the most magnificent. In turning therefore to the Left one perceives a long Suite of Apartments, which form a magnificent Point of View. The Furniture is surprizingly rich; nor is any thing to be seen, look which way you will, but Gold, Silver, Marble, Bra.s.s, Painting, Gla.s.s, China, _&c._ in a word, every thing that can be wish'd for, that is rich and elegant. At the end of this Suite of Apartments there is a long Gallery, the Cieling of which, like that of _Versailles_, represents the princ.i.p.al Actions of the King, and the sides are adorn'd with Pictures done by the most famous Hands, the Frames of which are of Bra.s.s gilt.

At the end of this Gallery there was formerly a great Amber-Cabinet, with divers Compartiments in Ba.s.so-Relievo, which perhaps had not its Fellow in the World; but the King being desirous to make the _Czar_ a Present worthy of his Acceptance, gave him this Cabinet and a Yatcht that cost eighty thousand Crowns.

Were I to enter into the detail of the Beauties and Magnificence one meets with at every step in this Palace, I should never have done; I believe it may be sufficient to say that the King, as far as possible, imitated the Inside of the Palace of _Versailles_. This great Prince took _Lewis_ XIV.

for a Model, and after his Example was intent on building magnificent Structures and establishing different Manufactures, whereby the Poor might earn their Living, and get for a reasonable Price those Commodities which heretofore they used to import from Foreign Countries, at a very great Expence. Thus, _Madame_, have I given you an account of almost all the greatest Remarkables at _Berlin_. I shall now let you know after what manner their Majesties are every day attended.[15]

I begin with the King's Levee. His Majesty commonly rose between five and six o'clock in the Morning, (I mean at the time that I have the Honour to speak to you of;) tho' formerly he rose at three or four o'clock. As soon as the King awak'd, the Page of the Back-Stairs who had watch'd with him went and gave notice of it to the Valets de Chambre and the Yeomen of the Wardrobe, who presently came in, undrew the Bed-Curtains, and open'd the Window-Shutters, after which they went out and declar'd that the King was stirring. Then the Chamberlain in waiting, the Gentleman of the Bed-Chamber, and the Officers upon Guard came in and made a very low Bow.

The next that enter'd were the Physicians, to whom his Majesty gave an account how he had rested. Then the Pages of the Back-Stairs brought a great Silver Table with Coffee upon it, which was presented to the King by the first Valet de Chambre in waiting upon a Gold Salver, and the Page presented it about to all the Persons of Quality that were at the Levee.

Every body was oblig'd to drink two Cups, or else they run the risk of being reprimanded. After drinking of the Coffee the Table was carry'd away, and the King convers'd half an hour or more with those that were present: Then he veil'd his Bonnet and all the Company retir'd. The Valets de Chambre and the Grooms of the Wardrobe stay'd to dress the King, which when they had done, his Majesty retir'd into his Closet, where was a Desk for Prayer, and there he commonly stay'd an Hour, while they made his Bed.

After this he return'd into his Chamber, and then the Prime Minister came in to give him an account of his Dispatches, which lasted till ten o'clock or thereabouts. After this the King went to Council, where he stay'd a little above an Hour. This Council consisted of the Prince Royal, the Margrave _Philip_ Brother to the King, and the Ministers. When the Council broke up the King went into his Closet, and there gave out his Orders.

Then two Kettle-Drummers plac'd in opposite Balconies that look'd into the lesser Court, gave notice by the Sound of their Kettle-Drums to the Officers of the Kitchen and b.u.t.tery to get everything ready for the King's Service. As soon as the Cloth was laid, the Kettle-Drums were sounded a second time. During this, the King accompany'd by the Prince Royal and the Margraves his Brothers, pa.s.s'd thro' the Guard-Room into the Queen's Apartment, where were all the Princesses. A few moments after, the Kettle-Drums and twenty-four Trumpets divided into two Bodies, gave notice for serving up Dinner. At the same time, two of the Life-Guards and six of the Guard of Hundred _Swissers_ took possession of the Room where the King was to eat. The two Life-Guard Men posted themselves behind the Arm-Chair of the King and Queen, and the six _Swissers_ encompa.s.s'd the Table three on each side with their Halberds in their hands. When Dinner was serv'd up, the Great Chamberlain with his Staff in hand went and acquainted the King of it, who immediately enter'd the Hall, follow'd by the Queen, who was led by the Prince Royal; as were the Princess Royal and the Margravines by the Margraves. At their entrance into the Hall, the King gave his Hat and Cane, and the Queen her Gloves and Fan, to the Chamberlains in waiting. Then two Gentlemen of the Bed-Chamber held out a great Silver gilt Bason for them to wash in, and when they had wash'd, the two Chamberlains gave them the Napkins. The two Gentlemen of the Bed-Chamber always offer'd the Bason in like manner to the Princes and Princesses to wash in, but they wou'd not accept it.

When their Majesties had wash'd, the Grand Marshal who stood about the middle of the Table opposite to the King gave a Rap with his Staff; at the same time making a profound Obeisance; then a Page that stood by him did the like, and after saying a short Grace their Majesties seated themselves in their Arm-Chairs, and their Royal Highnesses in other Chairs, with only Backs. Then the Carver approaching the Table tasted the Provision, and therewith serv'd their Majesties, and the Princes according to their Rank.

When their Majesties call'd for Liquor the Chamberlain gave the hint to a Page, and he did the same to a Gentleman of the Bed-Chamber upon Duty, who then went to the Side-board and fetch'd Wine and Water in two Bottles upon a Salver of Gold. The Chamberlain tasted both, and then presented both to their Majesties. The King always drank the Queen's Health, and the Queen in like manner drank the King's. This done, their Majesties dismiss'd the Court by making a Salute to the Grand Marshal. Then the Court retir'd, and none stay'd but the Waiters. Before their Majesties rose from Table the Prime Minister as well as the Master of the Horse approach'd, with the Grand Master of the Wardrobe and the Captain of the Guards, to receive the King's Orders, in case his Majesty was willing to ride out. When the Dessart was ready to be serv'd, notice was brought to the Grand Marshal or to him that bore the Staff in his absence, who then return'd to the King's Table. When his Majesty rose from Table the Chamberlain brought him Water to wash his Mouth, and the Queen's Chamberlain and their Royal Highnesses Gentlemen attended the Queen and Princesses with the same. After this the King led the Queen into her own Apartment, where he stay'd a little time, then return'd to his own, and rested himself for an hour in his Closet.

When the King was awaked, the Chamberlain and the Gentleman of the Bed-Chamber enter'd his Majesty's Closet, where sometimes the Queen paid him a Visit, and at other times the Prime Minister came and talk'd with him about Business. In the Summer-time the King went abroad for the Air, or the Pleasure of Fishing or Hunting, especially the Heron, in which he took great delight. About six o'clock in the Evening his Majesty went to the Queen's Apartment, and stay'd there about an Hour, after which he return'd to his own, to that call'd _la Tabagie_ or the Tobacco-Room, because there he smoak'd his Pipe, and several of the n.o.bility had the Honour of smoaking there with him. The King never supp'd unless it was in extraordinary cases, but amus'd himself with a Game at Chess. When he had done playing he conversed very familiarly with the Chamberlain, the Gentlemen of the Bed-Chamber, and some privileg'd Courtiers; and when he had a mind to put an end to the Conversation, he gave his Orders to the Grand Master of the Wardrobe what Clothes to equip him with next day, and then every body retir'd, and the Valets de Chambre and the Grooms of the Wardrobe went and put his Majesty to bed. This, _Madame_, was the manner how the Service was perform'd at our Court. Never was there any Interruption in the Hours prescrib'd for his Majesty's Exercises, unless he labor'd under some Ailment. I thought that this Detail, tho' perhaps a little tedious, wou'd not be quite so unpleasant as the Recital of all the Litanies and other Prayers, in which the Queen was constant for the remainder of the Year.

In the beginning of the Year following, that is to say the 19th of _January_ 1710, the Count _de Lottum_ presented the King with eleven Pieces of Cannon, and several Colors and Standards that fell to his Majesty's share in the distribution that was made of those that were taken from the _French_, during the Campaign.

At the same time we lost the Duke of _Courland_ for ever. This young Prince was the King's Nephew by his Mother, who was his Majesty's Sister by the same Father, but not by the same Mother. He was but an Infant when he lost his Father the Duke of _Courland_, whose death was to him the greatest of all Misfortunes, because of the Misunderstanding which the Guardianship of this young Prince created between those who aspir'd to it.

The d.u.c.h.ess his Mother a.s.serted that she was the rightful Guardian of the Prince, her Son. His Uncle also pretended 'twas his Right. In short, the n.o.bility of _Courland_ disputed it with them both. During these Domestic Troubles, the several Parties, not watchful of their Neighbours Motions, quickly found they had powerful Enemies to cope with. The _Saxons_ being the nearest, were the most forward to take possession of their Country.

The _Muscovites_ were soon at their heels, and in concert with the _Saxons_ rush'd upon what they thought most convenient. But they were both soon oblig'd to abandon that Duchy to the King of _Sweden_, who came at the head of his Troops, and without much difficulty sent them going. But after all, Fortune being weary of seconding the Arms of the _Swedish_ Monarch, he was oblig'd not long after his Entrance into _Courland_, to yield the said Duchy to the _Muscovites_, who remain'd the sole Possessors of it.

All these Troubles had oblig'd the d.u.c.h.ess, with the Prince her Son, to retire. She came to _Berlin_ where she was present at the King's Coronation, and afterwards, as I have already had the Honor to tell you, she marry'd the Margrave of _Brandenburg Bareith_. This Princess followed the Margrave her Husband into his Dominions, and took the Duke of _Courland_ her Son along with her. There did this young Prince stay with the Margrave his Father-in-law, till after the King of _Sweden_'s Defeat at _Pultowa_ by the _Muscovite_ Army. When the latter were become Masters of _Courland_, the Duke flatter'd himself that he should be able to prevail on the Czar to restore him to his Dominions: nor was he deceiv'd in his Expectation; for the Czar was very ready to consent to it, on condition nevertheless that he should marry his Niece, the Daughter of the late Czar, his Brother. The Match was truly ill.u.s.trious, for the Princess was both the Daughter and Niece of a potent Monarch; but her Education had been very different from that of the young Prince, and there was all the Reason in the World to think, that they would not like one another long.

The Duke for his part could have wish'd to be restor'd to his Duchy upon other Terms; but at length, thinking he could not do better than to accept of those, and to put himself again at the head of his Subjects, who had for several Years wish'd for his Presence; he set out for the Czar's Court, and there married the Princess. This Marriage, which was concluded with some Reluctance on the part of the young Duke, seem'd to portend him none but unhappy Days; and in short, he was scarce married, but he fell dangerously sick, and in a few days after died, which Illness they said was owing to his having been forc'd to drink to excess on his Wedding-Day.

This occasion'd a general Desolation throughout the Duchy of _Courland_, the poor People having entertain'd some Hopes that the Presence of their lawful Sovereign would make them forget the Evils they had suffer'd by several years continual Wars.

Towards the Conclusion of this Year, the famous Count _de Wartemberg_, Prime Minister and Great Chamberlain was disgrac'd; which, tho' it had been long wish'd for, was surprizing to all Mankind, who thought the Credit of that Minister too well establish'd, the chief Places of the Kingdom being in the hands of his Creatures, from whose Grat.i.tude there was nothing that he might not promise himself; besides, they did not think any Person would be so daring, as to cast the first Stone; the then recent Instance of the Count _de Wesen_ being a sufficient Warning to deter any Persons from entring into so dangerous a Combination. Nevertheless there were two Persons at Court who were not terrify'd by the Peril, to which an Enterprize of this nature expos'd them. The Name of both these Courtiers was _Kamcke_, and being Cousins into the bargain, they were only distinguish'd by the Appellations of _Great_ and _Little_.

The _Great Kamcke_ had been successively Page to the King, Page of the Bed-chamber, afterwards a declar'd Favorite, and at last Great Master of the Wardrobe, which Post he held at the time of the Prime Minister's Disgrace. The Favor with which the King honor'd him, was what made him esteem'd more than any thing else; for setting that aside, he was not remarkable for either the Virtues or the Vices which contribute almost in the same measure to the forming of Great Men. He was reckoned a Man of fine Parts, because he was fortunate enough to gain, and to preserve the King's Favor; and he had the Reputation of being good-natur'd, because having a place in which he might have done a great deal of Mischief, he did none at all. 'Tis true too on the other hand, that he did no body any Service; the Lethargy of his Temperament not permitting him to put himself upon those Motions, which are equally necessary to serve a Friend, and to ruin an Enemy.

The _Little Kamcke_, his Cousin, was of a Temper quite different. He was not only a Person of a piercing sparkling Wit, but had all the Politeness of the most elegant Courtier. Being ambitious and vain, but always with Temper; he was cut out for those delicate Undertakings to which the Success alone gives a Sanction; and what is seldom to be found in so young a Man, he had all the Management and Dissimulation necessary for Execution. The Count _de Wartemberg_ had always hated him; for he suspected him to have had a hand in those Ballads which _M----_, afterwards the King of _Poland_'s Minister, had made upon the whole Court, and in which the Count and Countess were very ill treated; but _Little Kamcke_, who never despair'd of his Success, still continued to make his court to the King, without seeming to take the least Notice of the Minister's Ill-will. His a.s.siduous Attendance was at length rewarded; the King begun by granting him the Honor of playing with him every Night at Chess; which was a Favor this young Courtier so artfully improv'd, that in a little time after, his Majesty made him a Minister of State. The Count _de Wartemberg_ was mortify'd in two Respects by the Advancement of _Little Kamcke_; for he did not expect such a Favor to be convey'd by any Ca.n.a.l but himself; and besides it was granted to a crafty Enemy, whose rising Credit might well give him Umbrage. _Kamcke_ for his own part believing that he was only obliged to his own Merit for his Preferment, had even less regard for the Prime Minister than before. They star'd upon one another at first, without venturing to make an Attack; but by degrees they came to high Words; and at length _Kamcke_ being puff'd up with his Favor; and being moreover supported by all good Men, he vow'd the Destruction of the Prime Minister, and his Creature, the Grand Marshal. He was so cunning as to engage his Cousin _Kamcke_ in the Scheme, because the latter being Great Master of the Wardrobe, cou'd give the Prime Minister the fatal Blow with more Ease than any other Person; and he succeeded happily; for he aggravated to his Majesty the Complaints of the People, and the Murmurings of the whole Court. The Queen too being prejudic'd by the _Kamcke_ spoke sharply against the King, who at last consented to the removal of a Minister, whom till then he had thought he could not be without.

This great Scene was open'd by the Disgrace of the Count _de Witgenstein_, the Grand Marshal of the Court, and the Prime Minister's Creature, who was arrested in his House on the 27th of _December_ at 10 o'clock at Night, by a Lieutenant of the Guards and ten Grenadiers. Next day, about 9 in the Forenoon, M. _de Gersdorf_, Colonel of the Regiment of Guards, accompanied by _Stoffius_, Treasurer of the Order of the Black Eagle, came from the King to demand his Ribban. He presently restor'd it, a.s.suring them that he was wrongfully maltreated; but that nevertheless he did not complain of the King, and that they were only his Enemies who had impos'd upon his Majesty's Goodness to ruin him. Not long after an Officer of the Guards came in and told him, that he had Orders to carry him to _Spandau_. He made answer, that he was ready to go wherever the King commanded him; only he desir'd Leave to write to his Mother-in-law, who was the Queen's Lady of Honor. The Officer told him, that he was forbid to let him speak or write to any Person whatsoever; and then he took him with him into a Coach that was attended by 12 Life-Guard Men.

The Noise of his Confinement being presently spread throughout the Town, a Mult.i.tude of People gather'd in a trice before his House, every one crying out against the Grand Marshal, calling him the People's Blood-sucker, and the Author of all their Taxes. When they saw him put into a Coach to be carried to _Spandau_[16], their Shouts, were doubled; but the Grand Marshal, without being shock'd, let down the Gla.s.ses of his Coach, and told the furious Rabble, that he had been a faithful Servant to his King, and that he had never done any thing in his Administration that could be laid to his Charge; but the Clamours of the People hinder'd him from being heard, and he went out of Town, laden with Curses.

The Hatred that was manifested against him, came from a Source which always touches the People in the most sensible part; he was suspected to have had a hand in the Creation of several Taxes; and to have been the Projector of the Insurance-Office from Fire. The Establishment of this Office was very well design'd; for it undertook to indemnify private Persons for the Loss they might have sustain'd by Fire; and for this purpose, every one was tax'd in a certain Sum of Money, that there might always be a Fund sufficient to answer the Losses by Fires. Frauds were soon committed in the Management of the Moneys that seem'd to be appropriated for a very good Use; and by degrees that Establishment, which was erected for the Relief of the People in their extreme Necessities, serv'd only to oppress them.

The Disgrace of the Grand Marshal was soon followed by that of the Prime Minister. Two days after the Confinement of the former, the King ordered M. _d'Ilgen_ one of his Ministers, and princ.i.p.al Secretary of State, to demand the Seals of his Prime Minister, and to order him in his Name to have nothing more to do with the Affairs of the Government. He receiv'd this News with Courage, and said to the Secretary of State, that he never had any other Will but his Majesty's, and that therefore he was ready to obey his Orders. The next day he received Orders to quit the Palace, and to retire to his Estate at _Wolfersdorff_, a few Leagues from _Berlin_. He immediately made ready to be gone; but before he set out, he sent to desire the King to give him leave to wait on him, to thank him for all the Favors he had receiv'd at his Majesty's hands; to which the King consented, and the Prime Minister appear'd with an Air suitable to the situation of his Affairs. He put every Wile in practice that is possible to be of service to a Minister who has had long experience of a Court, and a perfect Knowledge of his Master's Temper; he pray'd, he wept, but contrary to his own Expectation and that of the whole Court, the King continu'd stedfast, and dismiss'd him, tho' with all the possible marks of Friendship and Affection; for when he was going out of his Closet the King call'd him back, and taking a Ring of twenty thousand Crowns from his Fingers, he gave it to him, and said that he desir'd him to keep it as a mark of his Esteem. Thus did the King to his regret dismiss a Person, whom if he had pleas'd he might still have kept in his Service.

The Prime Minister, the moment he went from the King, set out for _Wolfersdorff_, from whence he wrote a very moving Letter to his Majesty to desire him to accept of that Estate for a Present, together with his Wife's Garden which is now the Queen's, (they call it _Monbijou_[17]) and all his Porcellane Ware. The King return'd him a very obliging Answer, and accepted of the Presents he offer'd him, on condition however to pay him for them; and indeed not long after the Count _de Wartemberg_ receiv'd the Value of them. Yet notwithstanding this mark of Esteem he was on the brink of being arrested; and _T----_ who was near the King's Person at that critical Juncture, a.s.sur'd me afterwards that 'twas _Little Kamcke_ that had diverted the King from it. The Count's Enemies had so incens'd his Majesty against him, that the Order for his Arrest was just ready to be dispatch'd, when _Little Kamcke_ represented to the King, that all things duly consider'd, the Prime Minister was not so culpable as to deserve being arrested; that Banishment was sufficient; that however, if his Majesty was apprehensive, that the Count knowing the Secrets of the State would discover them to other Powers, the only way was to secure his Fidelity to him by a handsome Pension, on condition however that he should never lie out of _Francfort on the Main_, where he would be near his Majesty's Territories and out of a Capacity to give him any Umbrage. The King approved of this Advice, and sent to tell the Count that he would continue a Pension of twenty-four thousand Crowns to him for his Life, on condition that he would promise not to stir out of _Francfort_. This was a very advantageous Offer, to a Man who trembled every moment for fear of losing his Liberty, and therefore without much deliberation what to do, he thought of nothing but packing up and carrying off the Wealth he had heap'd together. When the Count and Countess came to Court they had not wherewithal to subsist; but they went away with Millions, and the Countess alone had as many Diamonds as were worth half a Million of Crowns. She was mortally uneasy for fear of being stripp'd of her Treasure, till she saw herself quite out of the King's Dominions, and then her Spirits began to rise. Upon the Road they were overtaken by an Express, who brought an Order to the Count _de Wartemberg_ to deliver up the Golden Key to the Great Chamberlain, together with the Commission of Hereditary Post-Master; which he obey'd instantly with very great Submission, and afterwards continued his Journey towards _Francfort_.

The King gave the Chamberlain's Key to the _Great Kamcke_, Grand Master of his Wardrobe, and the Office of Post-Master was executed in Commission by _Little Kamcke_. As to the place of Prime Minister, it was not fill'd up; and the King, lest it should be thought that he intended to be still govern'd as he had been all along, declar'd he would have no more Prime Ministers. Not long after the Count _de Wartemberg_'s Departure, the King sent for Count _Christoper de Dobna_, and the Count _de B----_, to come to _Berlin_. The former for some time made a Figure very like to that of a First Minister, but had not the t.i.tle. The Post of Grand Marshal was supply'd by M. _de Printz_, with the Applause of the whole Court. The Count _de Witgenstein_ was restor'd not long after to his Liberty, on paying down a Fine to the King of fourscore thousand Crowns. Thus, _Madame_, have you had the Catastrophe of the two chief Favorites of our Court.

I had left _Berlin_ for some Months when this great Revolution happen'd, which I heard the first News at _Hanover_. I happen'd to be with the Electoress when she receiv'd the Letter from the King, that inform'd her of the Change he had made At his Court, and of his Intention to be for the future his own Prime Minister. For my part I was gone from _Berlin_ with a design to travel, because of some very harsh words which the King said to me one day when I had fail'd to pay my Attendance as a Gentleman of the Bed-Chamber. The a.s.siduity with which I made my Court to the Margrave _Philip_ subjected me to a very sharp Reprimand from the King. What gave occasion to it was this, I endeavour'd to be with the Margrave as often as possible, tho' indeed I was not there so often as I wish'd; for I don't think there was a Prince in the World to whom a Man could make his Court with so much Pleasure and Freedom. As the Margrave was almost always at _Schwedt_, it happen'd one day that when 'twas my turn to wait on the King, I took it in my head to stay at the Margrave's Court, so that a Man who happen'd to be then going out of the Service was oblig'd to be continu'd in it some time longer. The King asking him the reason, the Gentleman made him Answer that I was the cause of it, and that I had not so much as taken care to speak to any body to officiate for me. I arriv'd in two, or three days, and enter'd into the Service the Week following.

The King who knew very well that my Attachment to the Margrave his Brother was the only cause of my Absence from my Post, ask'd me as soon as I made my Appearance before him, whether I serv'd his Brother or him, and why I did not do my Duty better? I was so thunder-struck at the manner with which the King said these few words to me, that really I don't remember in the least what I said for my Excuse; but I don't forget, that whether he thought my Plea good or bad, he made me no Answer. I was so nettled at this Rebuke from the King in the presence of several Persons, that I resolv'd to be gone out of sight for a while, the better to digest my Resentment. I therefore ask'd his Majesty's Leave to travel, which I easily obtain'd, on condition however that I should not go to _France_.

For the King was then at War with that Crown, which besides did not look upon him in any other Light than as Elector.

As soon as I had obtain'd a Permission to travel, I prepar'd to set out, but after having taken Leave of their Majesties, I went to pa.s.s a few days more at the Court of the Margrave _Philip_: And the Margravine engag'd me to go to _Dessau_ to pay my Devoirs there to the Princesses her Sisters. I had the Honor to find them at ORANJEBAUM, a House built by the late Princess of _Orange_, their Mother; and 'tis a magnificent Palace, worthy of the Princess by whose Order it was erected. I stay'd there eight or ten Days, and then continu'd my Journey towards the Duchy of _Hanover_, where I wanted to go and see my Mother, before I engag'd farther in the great Journey that I had in my Thoughts.

From _Oranjebaum_ I went to[18]HALL in _Saxony_, which is a City that belongs to the King, and is a part of the Duchy of _Magdebourg_. The Courts of Justice and the Regency of the Duchy were formerly held in this City, but now they are kept in the City of _Magdebourg_[19]. And _Hall_ is only remarkable for its University which was founded in 1695, and for its excellent Salt-Works. From _Hall_ I went to HALBERSTADT, the Capital of a Princ.i.p.ality of the same Name. This City was for eight hundred Years subject to its Bishops till it was seculariz'd and yielded by the Treaty of _Westphalia_ in 1648, to the Electoral Family of _Brandenburg_. The River here is very small, for which reason the Trade of this Town is inconsiderable; but as it is the Seat of the Regency of the Princ.i.p.ality, and of the Courts of justice, 'tis much frequented. Its Cathedral Church, which is worth seeing, belongs to a Chapter wherein the Catholics and the Protestants are equally admitted, and both have the Liberty of their Public Worship. The Catholics have several Convents in the Town, of which that of the Recollets is the most beautiful, and their Church is very fine. These Fryars say they owe their Foundation to the ancient Counts of _Regenstein_, who were heretofore Feudataries to the House of _Brunswic_, and whose Lands belong now to the King, notwithstanding the very fair Pretensions of the Dukes of _Brunswic_, and especially of the Duke of _Blankenbourg_, Father to the Empress, to whose share those Pretensions devolv'd. In 1709 this Prince gave a Sum of Money for new vamping the Tomb of their Founder, which they have done, and moreover added a _Latin_ Inscription to it in Capital Letters of Gold. When the King went to _Halberstadt_ he honor'd this Convent with his Presence, on which occasion the Father-Guardian preach'd before him and gave the Sacramental Benediction, because his Majesty had a mind to see the Ceremonies of the Catholic Church.

From _Halberstadt_ I went to WOLFEMb.u.t.tLE[20], which City is the common Residence of the Dukes of _Brunswic_. Tis built only of Timber, and has no remarkable Structure but the Palace which is very fine, and the Library which is worthy of the Observation of the Learned and the Curious, not only for the Beauty of the Room and the regular Disposition of the Books, but for the Number of the Printed Volumes and Ma.n.u.scripts. As soon as I arriv'd I sent to know if I might have the Honor of waiting on the Duke, who was then at _Saltzdabl_, a League from _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_. From this City to the Castle the Road is lin'd with a very fine Row of Trees. His Highness having permitted me to pay him my Respects, I waited on him, and was receiv'd with extraordinary Kindness. This Prince, who was then fourscore Years of Age, had nevertheless all the Presence of Mind and all the Vigour of a Man of thirty. I believe it needless to observe to you that the Person whom I have the Honor to mention to you was the late Duke _Anthony-Ulric_. This Duke besides a superior Understanding knew many things, which Princes are glad to abandon to Persons of a mean Condition.

If you have read the Romance of _Octavia_, and his Translation of several of _Corneille_'s and _Racine_'s Tragedies, you will readily own that no Person ever wrote in our Language more politely. This Prince was also perfect Master of the _Roman_ History, which he had made his particular Study. He had moreover a wonderful Taste for every thing that was Elegant, and especially for the Liberal Arts. One may judge of the Skill he had in Architecture by his Castle of _Saltzdabl_, which is a Structure not inferior in Magnificence to any that has been rais'd by Sovereign Princes.

In this Castle, besides immensely rich Furniture, there is a numerous but choice Collection of Pictures that are put up in a great Gallery, which is one of the finest Rooms in all _Germany_. The Duke did me the Honor after I had din'd to carry me to it.

The Ducal Family of _Brunswic_ was at that time no more than the Duke _Anthony-Ulric_, and his two Sons, of whom the present Duke Regent was the eldest. Tho' this Prince has been three times married he has had no Issue, so that the only one of the Family that has had Children is the Duke of _Blankenbourg_, who marry'd a Princess of _Oetingen_, by whom he has had three Daughters, the eldest of whom wears the Imperial Crown, the second was marry'd to a Prince of the _Czarian_ Family, and the third to the Prince of _Brunswic-Bevern_ presumptive Heir of the Dominions of _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_.

The Ducal Family of _Brunswic_ is intirely _Lutheran_; yet the late Duke _Anthony_ died a Catholic, to which Religion he was converted a little before his Death. The Enemies of his Reputation affected to give out, that Ambition was the motive of his entring into the Pale of the Church, and that the Bishopric of _Hildesheim_ or the Electorate of _Cologne_, which were both vacant at that time by the Elector's being put under the Ban of the Empire, was the View of his Conversion: but 'tis easy to perceive that this Reproach is nothing but meer Calumny, if it be consider'd, that the Duke of _Brunswic_ consider'd only in that Quality had too high a Rank in the Empire to be flatter'd with the Episcopal or Electoral Dignity, especially at the Age of fourscore, and when he could not hope for Posterity to inherit either. 'Tis very certain that the Conversion of this Prince was the Effect of a long Examination which he had made of the Religion that he embrac'd, he having entertain'd Thoughts of it for several years. When he consented that his Grand-Daughter should be married to the Emperor, it was demanded of that Princess, that she should abjure the Religion in which she had been educated. There was at that time an a.s.sembly of the ablest Divines in _Germany_, who agreed as the _French_ Ministers did when _Henry_ IV. consulted them about his Conversion, that Salvation was to be had in the Catholic Religion. This Confession of the Ministers was some encouragement to the timorous Princess, who being but young and very tender-conscienc'd, thought there was Danger in taking such a Step. The Duke, in order to reconcile her thoroughly to it, promis'd her to turn Catholic himself; and _Imhoff_ his Minister did the same. As the latter was a Man of good Sense, and moreover of great Probity, he had acquir'd his Master's Confidence, and as Religion had for some time past the princ.i.p.al Share in their Conversation, _Imhoff_ after having weigh'd every thing well, could not deny, that the Catholic was the only true Religion; and he made his Abjuration of the Protestant, some time after the Princess. The Duke was a good while longer before he took this Step; for tho' he was a real Catholic in his Heart, he was willing to prepare his Subjects for this Alteration by gentle means; but when he receiv'd a Letter from his Grand-Daughter, he made no longer Delay. This Princess arriving at _Barcelona_, and hearing that the Duke had not yet perform'd the Promise he made to change his Religion, she wrote a long Letter to him, wherein she let him know how uneasy she was, for fear that the Religion which he had advis'd her to chuse was not the true Religion, because he was so long in embracing it himself. Then the Duke declar'd himself, and convinc'd his Grand-Daughter, that not content with having procur'd her one of the princ.i.p.al Crowns in this World, he had also done his Endeavor to secure her another that was more glorious and more durable.

After the Duke had embrac'd the Catholic Religion, he caus'd a Church to be built at BRUNSWIC[21], which is a City but two small Leagues from _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_, thro' a very strait Road, lin'd on both sides with Trees.

When I had taken a good View of all that was worth seeing at _Saltzdabl_, I came to this City, which I found did not come up near to the Notion I had of it; nevertheless 'tis the Capital of the Duchy of _Brunswic_. They say 'twas built _Anno_ 868, by _Bruno_ the Son of _Alphonsus_ Duke of _Saxony_, who call'd it after his own Name. It was afterwards very much enlarg'd by the Emperor _Henry_ the _Faulconer_. 'Twas formerly rank'd among the chief _Hanse_ Towns, and govern'd it self after the manner of a Republic, pretending to be independent of its Dukes, who always oppos'd it's Liberty Sword in hand, and 'twas not without great difficulty that they brought it in Subjection to them. _Henry_ Duke of _Brunswic_, surnam'd the _Young_, besieg'd it three times, but always in vain. At length in 1617, the City was compell'd to perform Homage to Duke _Frederic-Ulric_, the then Regent. Nevertheless it preserv'd its Privileges, which still gave it an Appearance of Freedom till 1671, when _Rodolph Augustus_, Duke of _Brunswic-Wolfemb.u.t.tle_, made himself absolute Master of it. Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ once had a Design to fortify this Place, and the Duke his Son seem'd at first to have the same Intention; but afterwards he chose rather to have n.o.ble Structures erected in it, amongst which there's a very great Palace, where ten Sovereigns might lodge without incommoding one another. This Prince caus'd it to be built for the d.u.c.h.ess his Wife, in case she should survive him; and no Cost was spar'd to render it one of the richest and most magnificent Palaces that was ever seen, to the intent that the Charms of so fine a Habitation might contribute in some measure to make the d.u.c.h.ess more cheerful in her melancholy State of Widowhood; which indeed could not but be the more so to the Princess, because by losing her Husband, she must also lose her Sovereignty; for they had no Children, and the Duke was too old for them ever to expect any.

This is the only Palace in _Brunswic_ that is remarkable. The Duke of _Blankenbourg_'s, 'tis true, is very large, and has very fine Apartments, but is old, and has nothing extraordinary; it joins to the Church of St.

_Alaise_, which is the princ.i.p.al Church, and the Place where several of the Dukes are buried. On the Square over-against the Church, there's a Lion of Bra.s.s, on a very high Pedestal, representing that which they say was tam'd by the Duke _Henry_ surnam'd the _Lion_, to such a degree, that the terrible Animal follow'd him wherever he went; and even after the Duke's Death and Interment in the Church of St. _Alaise_, the Lion went towards the Church Door, try'd to break it open, stay'd there in spite of all the Attempts to take him off, and died on the very Spot, for Grief that he had lost his Master.

I afterwards went to ZELL[22], and from thence to HANOVER. The first of these Towns is small, and has nothing remarkable. It was formerly the common Residence of the Dukes of _Zell_, who had a very commodious Castle in it; but since that Country devolv'd by Inheritance to the House of _Hanover_, there's nothing remaining here but the Courts of Justice and the Regency.

HANOVER[23] is the Capital of the Electorate, and the Seat of the Electors. This Court was always one of the politest in _Germany_, especially during the Life of the late Princess _Sophia_, the Electoress Dowager and Mother. This August Princess, who was descended from the most ill.u.s.trious Blood in _Europe_, was the Daughter of the unhappy _Frederic_, the Elector _Palatine_, and of the Princess of _England_, Daughter of K.

_James_ I. by whom the Right of Succession to the Crown of _England_ devolv'd to the House of _Hanover_. This Princess, tho' she was full Fourscore when I was at _Hanover_, labour'd under none of those Infirmities, which one would think to be inseparable from so great an Age: She was really a Prodigy for Vivacity and Memory; she spoke _French_, _English_ and _Italian_ as well as her Mother-Tongue, and had moreover a wonderful just way of Thinking, which she had taken the pains to cultivate by great Reading. This Princess had been the Mother of several Children, of whom there were then but three Princes surviving, _viz._ the eldest, who was then the Elector, and afterwards King of _Great Britain_; the second whose Name was Duke _Maximilian_; and the third the Duke _Ernest Augustus_, afterwards Bishop of _Osnabrug_ and Duke of _York_.

Of the Electoress's three Sons, none but the Elector had any Children; and these are the Electoral Prince, now King of _England_, and the Princess Royal, now our Queen.

The Electoral Prince's Family was more numerous. He has had a Son and several Daughters by the Princess of _Brandenburg-Ans.p.a.ch_. I had the Honor of waiting on the Princes and Princesses the very next day after my Arrival, and was received very graciously, especially by the Electoress Mother, who all the Time that I staid at Court, honor'd me with her special Protection.

I spent all the _Carnival_ time at this Court, where 'twas open'd on the 2d day of _January_ by a _French_ Comedy, after which there was Play and a Drawing-Room at the Electoress's Apartment till ten o'clock at Night. Next day there was a Ridotto in imitation of that of _Venice_, that is to say, a public Ball, to which every body was admitted that had a Mask, but not with Arms. This Ball was held at the Town-House, every other day during the whole _Carnival_. In the same Room where the Ridotto was perform'd, they play'd at _Ombre_ and _Picquet_, and in another at _Ba.s.set_; there was a third Room in which the Tables were cover'd with a cold Treat; and next to this third Room there was a fourth, in which were distributed Coffee, Chocolate, Liquors, _&c._

I had a very great Share in all the Diversions of the _Carnival_, being then at an Age when nothing is so much minded as Pleasures; especially when a Person has Money enough to keep him from the Uneasiness, which is the necessary consequence of the want of that precious Metal. Of this I was now furnish'd with a handsome Stock, and therewith cut a very gay Figure; but was soon oblig'd to lessen my Expences, because nothing would serve me but I must try a fatal Experiment, in which I was bit. I had a mind to try Fortune at Gaming; and play'd at first with pretty good Luck; but afterwards the Chance turn'd, and I was soon in a very great Quandary what to do with my Person, being neither able to proceed in my Journey, nor return from whence I came; and much less to stay at _Hanover_, where I had always made some Figure. I then did what young Fellows us'd to do in such a Situation; that is to say, made several Bargains, but none to my Advantage. At last I was oblig'd to expose my Circ.u.mstances to my Mother, who was still my Guardian. I had much ado to get the Money of her that I wanted; but I wrote such moving Letters to her, that she was sensible at last that she was my Mother, and after having made me wait a little while, she was so good as to send me the necessary Sums.

This little Disorder in my Affairs happen'd at a very unseasonable Time: for the Electoress had been so kind as to get a Pa.s.sport for me to go to _Paris_, by means of the late Madame of _France_; but as the same was only granted for two Months, 'twas impossible for me to make use of it, having been oblig'd to spend almost all that time in contriving Expedients to retrieve my Finances.

The Money that my Mother was so kind as to send me, put me again into a Condition of travelling. The Emperor _Joseph_'s Death happening at that time, I resolv'd to go and see the Election of a new Emperor. This great Prince died at _Vienna_, the 17th of _May_, at 32 years of Age and nine Months. He left the Imperial Throne vacant, but his other Crowns devolv'd by Hereditary Right to his Brother. As soon as that Emperor died, the Empress Mother a.s.sum'd the Government of his Hereditary Kingdoms and Dominions, in the Absence of the King her Son, to whom she sent an Express to carry the News, as she did also to each of the Electors. The _Saxon_ and _Palatine_ Electors, as Vicars of the Empire, took Care of the Government of it during the Inter-regnum; and the Elector of _Mentz_, as Great Chancellor of the Empire, wrote circular Letters (which are call'd Letters of _Intimation_) to invite the Electors to the a.s.sembly that was to be at _Francfort_ for the ensuing Election.

As this a.s.sembly was not to be till _August_, I went in the mean while to _Holland_. The first Town I pa.s.s'd thro' after I left _Hanover_, was MINDEN, which is a Town upon the _Weser_, encompa.s.s'd with Walls, and defended by some Half-Moons, which nevertheless don't hinder one's seeing every thing that pa.s.ses in the Square from a Hill that commands the Town, and from whence 'tis an easy matter to beat it to the ground. 'Twas formerly a Hanse Town, being a part of _Westphalia_, and had always the t.i.tle of a Bishopric, till the Treaty of _Munster_, when it was seculariz'd, and given to the Family of _Brandenburg_, who settled a Regency here. It always retain'd two Chapters, one of Canons, and the other of Canonesses, into which the Ladies must make proof of their n.o.bility to be admitted. The famous Count _Tilly_, General of the Imperial Troops, when he was pursuing _Maurice_ the Landgrave of _Hesse-Ca.s.sel_, attack'd and took this Place in 1626, when the General, exasperated with the Town, which tho' extremely weak, refused to comply with the very advantagious Terms that he offer'd it, took it by Storm, and put near 3000 Men, Soldiers and Inhabitants, to the Sword.

As I proceeded, I pa.s.sed thro' HERVORDEN, which is an ill-built Town, in the County of _Ravensberg_. 'Tis an Imperial Town, and yet the King maintains a Garison in it. There's a Chapter of Ladies, the Abbess of which is a Native Princess of the Empire; and indeed this is what the Town is most remarkable for, it being otherwise not very considerable any more than the Towns of LIPSTADT and HAM. These belong both to the King, of which the first is fortify'd, and Justice is therein administer'd, in the Name of the King and the Count _de la Lippe_, who has half of the Revenue.

Every thing relating to the Fortifications or the Garison, is the King's.

The Baron _de Heiden_, General of the Horse, was Governor of it when I was there.

After having left these two Places, there is no considerable Town till we come to WESEL, which stands upon the _Rhine_, and is a part of the Duchy of _Cleves_. 'Tis now one of the strongest Places in _Europe_; for the King, who was about fortifying it when I was there, ordered that no Cost should be spar'd to carry the Works to the utmost Perfection. The Person he employ'd to direct them was M. _Bot_ a _Frenchman_, and Governor of the Place, one of the ablest Engineers now living. When I had rested a few days at _Wesel_ I fell down the _Rhine_ to _Nimeguen_, and by the way saw EMMERICK and SCHENK. _Emmerick_ is a Hanse Town upon the _Rhine_, which was taken by the _French_ in 1652, and restor'd two years after to the Elector of _Brandenburg_. _Schenk_, which is the first place in _Holland_, stands at the Point where the _Rhine_ divides it self into two Branches, one of which is call'd _Vahal_, and the other retains the Name of the _Rhine_. This Place was built in 1586, by _Martin Schenk_ a _Gueldrian_, from whom it took the Name.

NIMEGUEN[24] is built upon a Hill which rises by degrees to the very Centre of the Place, and is part of the Province of _Guelderland_. This Town is famous for having been taken and re-taken in the War the _Dutch_ carry'd on with _Spain_ for preserving their Liberty. That Crown was oblig'd at last to yield it to the _Dutch_, from whom _Lewis_ XIV. took it in 1672; but it was restor'd to them soon after. 'Twas in this Place that the Peace was concluded between _France_ and the Allies in 1678. At the beginning of the War for the _Spanish_ Succession, the Duke of _Burgundy_ endeavor'd to make himself Master of it, but he had not the Fortune to succeed. The _Dutch_ have made it very strong, it being their main Bulwark towards the Duchy of _Cleves_. To go by Land from _Nimeguen_ to UTRECHT, I cross'd the _Vahal_ over a Flying-Bridge. I shall not speak of this City now; for I did not stay there, but went strait to LEYDEN[25], a City in the Province of _Holland_, famous for its University, founded in 1575.

This is without dispute one of the finest Cities in all the United Provinces. 'Tis situate in the ancient Channel of the _Rhine_. The Streets which are broad and very long, are extremely neat, and are for the most part divided by Ca.n.a.ls, that are of a great Conveniency to its Trade, which consists chiefly in Woollen Cloth, whereof the City of _Leyden_ makes more than any other Town in _Holland_. There's a Library also in this City, which is a very good Collection of the most curious printed Volumes, and a great Number of very scarce old MSS. Here is likewise a Physic-Garden worth seeing, and especially a Hall for Anatomies, in which there is all manner of Curiosities. This City sustain'd a Siege by the _Spaniards_ in 1574, when the _Dutch_ shook off their Tyrants Yoke. During this the City was reduc'd to the last Extremity, the Siege having continu'd from _Easter_ to the 3d of _October_, when the _Spaniards_ were oblig'd to retire. Tho' _Leyden_ is a very pretty City, yet I take it to be one of the dullest Places in all _Holland_ to live in; for go where one will, we meet with such sickly Countenances as makes one melancholy to see them: not but that the Town's-People are as healthy here as elsewhere; only the Habit they have got of appearing always in their Night-Gowns, and of even walking the Streets in them, makes them look more like Valetudinarians, than People in Health.