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"I am your slave."
Jo spoke Serb, and they clearly said in Albanian--
"If only we could tell what you are saying."
After which every one sat and beamed, and they kept calling for somebody.
A plump dark-eyed girl came in, the first wife's daughter. She spoke Serb, and interpreted for the wives.
They wanted to know everything, but knew so little that they could grasp nothing.
Where had Jo come from? She tried London, Paris; no use, they had never heard of them--two weeks on the sea--they didn't know what the sea was, nor ships nor boats. They had never left Ipek and only knew the little curly river.
The girl said that "devoikas" did not learn to read and write. That was for the men.
Jo finally explained that she had ridden on horseback from Plevlie. Then they gasped--
"How far you have travelled! What a wonderful life, and does your husband let you speak to other men?"
She asked them what they did.
"Nothing." "Sewing?" "A little," they owned with elegant ease.
The chief wife had recently lost one of her children, but did not seem to know of what it had died.
"I should think a woman doctor would be useful here," said Jo.
They screamed with laughter. "How funny! Why, she would be _so_ thick!"
they said, stretching their arms as wide as they could.
They kept inventing pretexts for keeping her, but when she rose to go for the third time they regretfully bade her farewell, the daughter took both her hands and imprinted a smacking kiss.
Outside the healthy-looking wife emerged from the basket hut, where she was evidently preparing some delicacy to bring up, and showed signs of deep disappointment.
The responsible-looking man who let her out also expressed his regrets that she had not stayed longer. In the great street doorway was seated the husband, but no Jan, no Pavlovitch, so Jo sat with him, somewhat embarra.s.sed, eating bits of apple which he peeled for her.
In the afternoon we went to bid farewell to the Archbishop and took Pavlovitch with us. The Archbishop gave Pavlovitch a poor welcome until he heard his name.
"Are _you_ Nikola Pavlovitch, of whom I have heard so much from the Governor? I thought you were only a common soldier. I have met you at last."
We felt we were really consorting with the great.
Jo related her harem experiences, and he told of the attempts of the young Turks in Constantinople to abolish the veil, of how he had a.s.sisted at small dinner parties where the ladies had discarded their veils, and of the ferocity with which the priests and leaders had fought and quashed the movement.
One lady had ventured unveiled into the bazaar, and one of the lowest of women had given her a blow on the face. On appealing to a policeman she had received small comfort, as he told her she ought to be ashamed of herself.
As we went home we met women coming home from the fair with unsold carpets. They accosted us and wanted to know why we were writing them in the morning so that they could tell their relatives all about it.
When we reached our bedroom the old innkeeper came in. In dulcet tones she admired our purchases. We were rather stiff.
Suddenly she fell upon Jo's neck saying, "You mustn't be angry with me,"
and remained there explaining.
When she left, Jo looked gravely at Jan, took a toothcomb, let down her hair, and worked hard for a while.
Next day we went for a long walk. As we were returning a terrific storm burst over us. We had left our mackintoshes in the inn, and were soon wet through. We got back just at supper time, and after, as Jan had no change of clothing, he decided to go to bed in his wet things, heaping blankets and rugs over himself in the hopes of being dry by the morrow.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
CHAPTER XII
THE HIGHWAY OF MONTENEGRO--II
Jan awoke nearly dry, or in a sort of warm dampness, at 4.30 a.m. Not a soul was about, and we packed by candle. There was a purple dawn, and the towering cliffs behind the minarets glowed a deep cerise for at least ten minutes ere the light reached the town. The streets were still and deserted, but at last an old man with a coffee machine on his back, and a tin waistbelt full of pigeon-holes containing cups, took a seat at a corner. At six he was surrounded by groups of Albanian workmen drinking coffee, and he beckoned us to come and take coffee with him, but we were suspicious of the cleanliness of his crockery. A miserable-looking woman in widow's weeds was loitering about the door of the post office, and with her was a tattered girl surrounded by trunks, suit-cases, and bandboxes, so we guessed they were there to be fellow pa.s.sengers. A waggon loaded with boxes halted before them, but the widow declined to let _her_ baggage go by it.
At last the post waggon came. It was a small springless openwork cart with a rounded hood on it, so that it could roll when it upset--which was the rule rather than the exception--luggage accommodation was provided only for the "soap and tooth-brush" type of traveller; but the widow insisted upon packing in all her movables, and after that we four squeezed into what room was left. The seat was low, one's chin and knees were in dangerous proximity, and a less ideal position for travelling some thirty-five miles could not be imagined. The widow's portmanteau, all k.n.o.bs and locks, was arranged to coincide with Jo's spine. The tattered maid was loaded with five packages on her knees which she could not control, so we looked as cheerful as we could and said to ourselves, "Anyway it will do in the book."
At the start Jan was rather grateful for the squash, for the air was chilly; soon the damp, exposed parts of his clothing cooled to freezing point, and it was lucky that they were not more extensive.
As we rolled over the craters and crests of the--what had once been--stone-paved streets, the driver halted, here to buy a large loaf of bread, there to purchase smelly cheese, and finally to pick up a gold-laced officer, whom we took to be the post-guard. The driver, who sat back to back with Jan, grumbled at him because he took up too much room. But Jan replied that it was his own fault for not making the carriage bigger, and that his knees were not telescopic. We received the post of Montenegro, for this was the only road out; it consisted of three letters and a circular, so we judged that Montenegrin censorship was pretty strict.
The road was flat, the surrounding country covered with little scrubby oak bushes, in and out of which ran innumerable black pigs who had long cross pieces bound to their necks to prevent them from pushing through hedges into the few maize fields. As the miles pa.s.sed Jan slowly began to dry, his temperature went up and his temper became better. The widow, we discovered, was the relict of a Greek doctor who had died of typhus in Plevlie, and she was returning to her native land.
Presently we came to a small inn, a hut like all others, and the driver commanded us to get out. By this time we were accustomed to the sight of n.o.bles kissing market women relatives, and it did not surprise us to see the officer embrace the rather dirty hostess of the inn and kiss all the children; but when he took his place behind the bar and began to serve the coffee!... It was a minute before we realized that he had not been guarding the three letters and the circular, but merely was returning home.
At the Montenegrin frontier, which was some hours on, a soldier asked us for a lift, as though he could not see that we were already bulging at all points with excess luggage; at the Serbian frontier Jan was asked for his pa.s.sport, and as they did not demand that of the widow, we concluded that they imagined her to be Mrs. Gordon, and Jo and the tattered one, two handmaids.
Immediately over the frontier the road began to be Serbian, but not as Serbian as it became later on, and we reached Rudnik--and lunch--in good condition. Another carriage similar to our own was here, containing a Turkish family. The father, a great stalwart Albanian, and the son a budding priest in cerise socks. The priest was carrying food to his carriage, and we discovered that a woman was within, stowed away at the back like the widow's luggage, and carefully protected by two curtains, so that no eye should behold her. Her sufferings between Rudnik and Mitrovitza can be imagined when you have heard ours.
From Rudnik we walked to ease our cramped limbs, and the road became so bad that the driver went across country to avoid it. Here is the receipt for making a Serbian road.
"The engineer in charge shall send two hundred bullock trains from Here to There. He shall then find out along which path the greater number have travelled (_i.e._ which has the deepest ruts), after which an Austrian surveyor shall map it and mark it, 'Road to There.' Should the ruts become so deep that the carts are sliding upon their bottoms rather than travelling upon their wheels, an overseer must be sent to throw stones at it. He and ten devils worse than himself shall heave rocks till they think they have hurt it enough, when they may return home, leaving the road ten times worse than before, for the boulders by no means are to fill the ruts, but only to render them more exciting."
Oh, we walked. Indeed, we walked a good deal more than the driver thought complimentary, we got out at every uphill, and put steam on so that we should not be caught on the downhills. By supreme efforts we managed to get in four hours' walking out of the torturous thirteen.
Once--when we were a long way ahead--we were stopped by a gendarme.
"Where are your pa.s.sports?" demanded he.
"In the post-waggon," replied Jan.
"Why did you leave your pa.s.sports in the post-waggon?"
"Because they were in the pocket of my great-coat."