The Ladies' Work-Table Book Part 11

A NETTED BAG, WITH RING.--On a foundation of sixty st.i.tches, net the bag to half the length required; then net in a gilt ring, and finish the bag. Draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk ta.s.sel at the bottom. You will require coa.r.s.e netting silk, and a No. 16 mesh. You may use union cord, or gilt twist, if you prefer it.

DICE PATTERN PURSE.--This is done in two colors, highly contrasted. You must have two skeins of second sized silk, and a No. 10 mesh. On a foundation of ninety-eight st.i.tches, net seven with the darkest color.

You net seven rows. Then introduce the lighter silk, by joining it to the seventh st.i.tch of the first row of the dark color, and net seven rows upon the succeeding seven st.i.tches of the foundation. You must be careful to loop in the last dark st.i.tch on each row: repeat this process until the purse is of the length you require; of course reversing the squares. In cutting off the silk, you must leave sufficient to make a weaver's knot, with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color.

HONEYCOMB MITTENS.--You commence by casting on fifty st.i.tches; the first four rows are to netted plain: after which, you net one row with the silk, twice round the mesh; again net two rows with the silk round the mesh once: you then commence netting rounds, and net rows as before. The first row is to be netted with the silk twice round the mesh, the second is in honey-comb pattern; the third round is executed as the first, and the fourth as the second; for the fifth round you net eleven st.i.tches with the silk, round the mesh, as in the first row, and make two increased st.i.tches in the twelfth loop; in the next row, you are to net five st.i.tches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row; net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the four succeeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately; in the next round, which is plain, pa.s.s the silk twice round the mesh, and net seven st.i.tches; increase two st.i.tches in the eighth round and net seventeen in plain and pattern, alternate rounds; in the eighteenth increase two, and net five rounds; again increase two, and net five; and on each side again increase two; net three rounds after the last increase, continuing to net till you arrive at the st.i.tch over the last st.i.tch you increased, and net it to the one corresponding to it on the other side of the thumb; if it does not fit as it ought to do, you must decrease, until that object is secured; you are to finish the thumb, by netting a round with the silk, put twice round the mesh, and two rounds in plain netting; the silk is to be fastened to the side of the thumb, in order to finish the hand: and you are to net plain and pattern rounds successively. When the mitten is nearly the length you wish, finish in the same manner you did the thumb, using double silk.

NETTED CUFFS.--The materials are German wool and French floss silk, and the work is executed with a mesh, No. 11, and a small steel one, No. 15.

You commence on a foundation of fifty-four loops; and in order to form the right side, you net one row of wool with the large mesh, and three rows of silk with the small one, alternately, till you have netted twenty four rows. Then you form the wrong side, by netting one row of wool with the larger mesh, and two rows of the same material with the small one. You will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, with two narrow rows between each. Then net one wide row with wool, having in each loop three st.i.tches; above this, knit one narrow row of silk, and do the same at the other end. You have only to double the cuffs, turning the plain side inmost, and the rows of wool and silk will form a kind of border and finish to the whole.

NETTED CUFF WITH SILK AND WOOL.--On a foundation of ninety-six st.i.tches, and with a No. 11 mesh, net one row plain in floss silk. Second row the same. Then with an ivory mesh of half an inch in width, net one row in German wool. The fourth row is to be done two st.i.tches in one, with wool, using a small mesh. Then for the inside half of the cuff, net fourteen rows with the large and small meshes, successively. These to be done in silk and wool alternately. The next three rows to be netted in dark wool. Then with the small mesh net two rows in silk, the same color as at the commencement, alternately, with seven rows of wool, in proper shades, and finish with an edge to correspond with the beginning.

NETTED FRINGE.--Use a mesh No. 18, and net the required length, dropping off the st.i.tches on the left. Net the next row the same. Then with a flat mesh, the width of the fringe, placing the grooved edge downward, net one row. These latter loops are to be cut, and either left as they are, or knitted two and two together, as the taste of the worker may dictate.

NETTED OPERA CAP.--Work with one mesh, half an inch wide; and another, smaller, of steel; and begin on a foundation of seventy-four st.i.tches.

You must procure in double German wool, two colors that contrast well: commence with the darkest shade, and net with the wide mesh one row; the second is to be netted with the narrow one, and so on alternately: the sixth and seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh: then net five more rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately: this done, you commence with the other color, and net one row, having three st.i.tches on each loop of the row preceding: you now introduce silk of the same color as that of the wool first used, and net one row with the narrow mesh; in that row all the st.i.tches of the last row, netted in wool, must be taken up separately; the foundation is now to be removed, and rows of the lighter colored wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. Net another piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former, and taking one of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row with the narrow mesh in the centre row of knots; in the piece thus doubled, proceed to net a row with the wide mesh, then two with the narrow one, and again one with the wide mesh. The other piece is then to be folded in the same manner, and united to the former one by netting a row, taking up as before the centre row of knots. This makes the front of the cap appear in four pieces. At the back, in the centre row of knots, net a row with the narrow mesh, to keep it on an even fold. You draw up the cap at the end, and put the strings on. This completes it.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

NETTED SCOLLOP EDGING.--You work this with a flat mesh, and set on as many st.i.tches as you intend to have scollops. The flat mesh should be No. 3; and you will also require two round ones, one No. 14 and the other No. 18. Begin the work as follows. Net the first row with the flat mesh, and increase eighteen st.i.tches into each of the loops on the foundation. For the second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plain st.i.tch into each loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row in long loops, by pa.s.sing the material twice round the mesh; you are to increase two st.i.tches in the same loop, and so continue to the end of the row. In the fourth row you use the mesh No. 14 and leaving all the increased st.i.tches without netting them, net the long loops plain. The fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh No. 14, which finishes the scollop.

PLAIN NETTED GENTLEMAN'S PURSE.--Of coa.r.s.e netting silk, you will require five skeins, and a mesh, No. 13. You must have a foundation of eighty st.i.tches on which to commence, and you net to the length of ten inches. Net up the sides and damp it slightly, after which it is put upon a purse stretcher, where it is to be left for a few hours, then take it off and trim it as you please.

A LADY'S PURSE.--Net in the same manner seventy st.i.tches on the foundation, and nine inches in length is sufficient. Employ a mesh No.

10, and fine netting silk. Two colors may be used, netting five rows with one, and four with the other.

PLAIN NETTED MITTENS.--Begin on forty-eight st.i.tches as a foundation, and net four rows plain; then form the loops, for the ribbon, with a mesh double the size of that you work with. Then five rows more are to be netted plain; and in the next you must join both ends, and net one plain round, taking care in the twelfth st.i.tch to increase. Again net round, and increase as before. Net the remaining st.i.tches. You must then net sixteen rounds, increasing two st.i.tches, to form the thumb, in the same place as the other increased st.i.tches, every other round. Join the thumb st.i.tches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the thumb, decreasing a st.i.tch or two in every round. With the larger mesh you are to net two st.i.tches in every loop, and then net one round, taking the two together. Net two or three rounds with a finer mesh: this finishes the thumb. Net as many rounds as are wanted for the hand, and finish as before. Run in the ribbon, and edge with lace. You must have a No. 12 mesh, and five skeins of silk.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

A PLAIN SCOLLOP.--You must cast on one st.i.tch for each scollop: this is the first row. For the second, use a flat mesh No. 1, and increase twenty st.i.tches in each loop. Net the third with a round mesh No. 14, netting all the increased loops plain. The two next rows are netted plain, with the same mesh, which finishes the pattern.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

CAP BORDER SCOLLOP.--You commence with one st.i.tch for each scollop, as in last pattern. For the second row, use the flat mesh No. 1, and increase in each loop twelve st.i.tches. Net the third round with the round mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased st.i.tches plain.

The last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preceding one.

The cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should be about the size of what is called third-sized purse twist.

NET CRAVAT.--This is netted with German wool, and with a mesh No. 9.

Having cast on 400 st.i.tches, in the color you intend first to use, net twenty-three rows in plain netting. Then introduce the other color, or white; and again, in the same manner, net twenty-three rows. Proceed thus, till you have three stripes of each color: then net the two sides together, and draw up the ends. You may add ta.s.sels, if you choose.

A NET SCARF.--This is to be worked with two flat needles, No. 8 and No.

2, and in that kind of silk called _dockers_. You are to commence, by casting on 210 st.i.tches, and netting four rows with the smaller mesh, and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one. These repeated, six times, completes the scarf. You must add the four narrow rows, which will complete the edge. The scarf is to be drawn up at each end, and have ta.s.sels attached.

A LONG PURSE, IN POINTS.--Upon your foundation loops, put sixty st.i.tches in one of the colors you intend to use, and return on them. Then, in the next row, put on forty st.i.tches, the next forty, and so on to ten, always returning on the number last put on, and leaving the ten unnetted. You then, with another needle, introduce your other color, and put on ten st.i.tches upon the foundation loops, commencing ten loops from the sixty of the first color. When you have reached the last of the sixty, which you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw the mesh out, and pa.s.s the needle with the second color, through the concluding st.i.tch of the first, working back upon the second color the ten st.i.tches last introduced. The rest of the row is increased ten; and you must then decrease, as you did with the first color. One pattern is then complete; and you re-commence and proceed as before.

CHAPTER XVI.

CROCHET.

St.i.tCHES IN CROCHET.

Crochet has been long known, but it has only become a favorite with the fair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. It is very difficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be applied to a variety of useful and ornamental purposes. It is most frequently adopted in working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats, and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility. Silk, cotton, and wool, are employed, and the work is so easy, that a moderate share of attention to details, will make an expert workman.

St.i.tCHES.--These are called plain single crochet, plain double crochet, plain st.i.tch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety of st.i.tches.

It is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet st.i.tch, though it is easy of execution: perhaps the following will be found tolerably correct. Take a skein of wool, and having wound it, make a loop at one end, like the first link in a chain; through this draw another, and so on, until the chain is of the length required. Each must be made rather tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. This forms the foundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article she intends to make. She must pa.s.s the needle through the last loop of the foundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw it through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation, until the row is completed. Having thus formed the first row, she must proceed as before to form a second, and so on from right to left, and from left to right, until she has all the rows required. This is the most effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she will find that her work is the same on both sides, producing raised and depressed rows in alternate succession. In working she must not generally work backward and forward, but must finish each row separately.

PLAIN CROCHET.--Make only one loop in each st.i.tch. In making common purses in crochet, this is the st.i.tch generally employed.

PLAIN DOUBLE CROCHET.--Keep two loops on the needle before finishing the st.i.tch. This st.i.tch is more generally in use than any of the others described.

PLAIN St.i.tCH OPEN CROCHET.--This st.i.tch is done in the following manner.

To the last link of the foundation chain, crochet five st.i.tches, which must be again crocheted in the fifth st.i.tch of the chain. This is to be repeated to the foundation. The rest of the rows are to be done in the same way, attaching every fifth st.i.tch to the centre one of each loop in the row preceding. This looks extremely well for purses, and it can be varied by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

OPEN CROCHET.--This st.i.tch is difficult to describe; an attention to the following rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. First make a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work one st.i.tch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must be pa.s.sed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the material, and you will thus have three st.i.tches on the needle. Through the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two; through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one, through which you are to make one st.i.tch plain, as at the commencement.

You then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth link of the chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain st.i.tch between each two double ones, which will leave an open s.p.a.ce.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET.--This is a similar st.i.tch, only the single st.i.tch is omitted, and the two long st.i.tches are made together, by pa.s.sing the needle through the next loop without making a st.i.tch. Thus you will have two long st.i.tches and one open st.i.tch in succession.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.--This is exactly like the last, only making three long st.i.tches, instead of two, before every plain st.i.tch. It looks neat and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming effect. The following directions will enable the novice to work with beads with freedom and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, and pa.s.s one on to the middle st.i.tch of each of the three long ones.

This will, of course, place a bead in the centre of each square. Beads of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. A gold or polished steel one should form the centre of each diamond.

DOUBLE St.i.tCH CROCHET.--To work this you have only to take both meshes of the chain, instead of one, as in common crochet.

PLAIN St.i.tCH ELASTIC CROCHET.--Work backward and forwards, first taking one mesh of the chain, and then the other. The upper mesh must be taken first.

BEAD St.i.tCH.--If you wish to work with beads, you must thread all you intend to use, before you begin to work. Then when you wish to insert a bead, no matter what the pattern is you are executing, you have only to pa.s.s a bead down to the last st.i.tch you have worked, and to fasten it on by working the st.i.tch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrong side; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the front, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus keeping the bead in front, and inserting the needle from the back of the st.i.tch you are about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, and make the finishing loop in the common way: you will then find that the bead is on the right side.

EDGE St.i.tCH.--To work this st.i.tch you are to draw a loop through the first st.i.tch on the row, or on the round, if you work in rounds, then draw a second loop through the one last made. Thus the edge st.i.tch is formed. It is of importance to attend to the regular working of this st.i.tch, because if it is not done, you will lose in each row a st.i.tch.

On a round, it is not necessary to work the edge st.i.tch; but when the work has to be turned to work round the contrary way, the edge st.i.tch is indispensible.

A RAISED St.i.tCH.--Make this by pa.s.sing the needle through, both meshes of the chain, and working two st.i.tches instead of one, in the same s.p.a.ce or hole.

TO INCREASE OR DECREASE A St.i.tCH.--In the former case, make two st.i.tches in the mesh; and in the latter, take two st.i.tches together as one, or miss one.

TRUE St.i.tCH.--This means to keep the st.i.tches exactly over each other, when working in different colors, so as to conceal the half st.i.tch.

This must be done with care: and the more attention is paid to it, the more beautiful will the work appear.

TO FASTEN ON OR OFF.--The former is done by laying the two ends of the material contrary wise, and working a few st.i.tches with both. The latter process is performed by drawing the material through the last st.i.tch, which must be fastened at the back.