The "Ladies of Llangollen" Part 4

"The cottages, bridges, villas, towers, rocks, and dark ruins of Gothic antiquity, are in unison with the surrounding objects, and the attention is frequently called from beholding the beauties of nature to pause on the works of art. In the centre of the long valley which stretches to Llangollen, is erected a most stupendous aqueduct, by which the ca.n.a.l is conveyed from a lofty hill over a wide chasm in the mountains; the length of this amazing work of art and human industry, is, I was informed, three hundred yards, the aqueduct composed of cast iron, is supported on fifty stone pillars and arches, and the view of this immense pile bestriding the valley is grand beyond description, and contributes much to heighten the effect produced by the whole scenery; for here grandeur and sublimity sit enthroned on the mountains, and solitude and human privacy, with their attendant charms, have fixed their abode in the vallies.

"The beauties of the Vale of Llangollen certainly exceed every idea I had formed of their grandeur, and on my arrival at the inn in the village, the muse embodied the following

"LINES ON VISITING LLANGOLLEN.

'Much have I heard, Llangollen, of thy scenes, And the wild landscapes of thy mountain greens, The rushing streams, that dash thy rocks among, Thy snow-topt mountains, thy wild harper's song, Thy fruitful vallies deep, where oft between Rise hamlets, rocks, and tow'rs to grace the scene.

Where solitude and calm contentment dwell, And contemplation roves each rocky dell, Or climbs the snow-topt mountain's cloudy height To watch the sinking shades of evening light; To view the foaming torrent's misty shower, To list' the brooding tempest's rising roar, Mark the blue mists the silvery moonbeams shroud, Or golden ev'ning edge the dusky cloud; Yet, till this hour my doubting heart has thought Thy glowing scenes by fancy's pencil wrought, Or drest in poetry's enchanting hues, And all the flatt'ring colours of the muse; But if in winter's storms thy beauties charm, If the cold breast thy varying landscapes warm, In summer's smiles it surely stands confest, That he who draws thee fairest paints thee best.'"

Having thus seen the various amusing and interesting records, which so many of our most popular authors have given to the world, respecting the once famous "Ladies of Llangollen," curiosity induced us to pay a visit to this much frequented abode of ancient friendship. Accordingly in March, 1847, we made an excursion, in company with our respected Publisher, to the celebrated retreat of Plas Newydd; and through the favour of Mr. Jacques, an intelligent and hospitable gentleman resident at Pen-y-bryn, Llangollen, we were introduced to the present owners, Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, and met with a most courteous reception. Their manners are easy, dignified, and lady-like; totally free from all affectation, and in nowise marked by that frigid stateliness and pedantic formality, which a censorious world proverbially attributes to a state of elderly maidenhood. In all its characteristic particulars, the cottage remains in the same condition as in the days of Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby; but its present possessors have introduced several judicious alterations in the interior, which, though carried out in strict harmony with the general design of its former occupants, exhibit an improved taste and a cultivated judgment. The house is delightfully situated, and is well-adapted to realize the notion of the poet--

"'Tis pleasant from the loop-holes of retreat To look at such a world; to see great Babel And not feel the crush;"

but the site is not well chosen for developing the many charming prospects which the vale of Llangollen affords; and, indeed, the entire arrangements, both of dwelling and pleasure grounds, seem to be suggestive rather of another poetical maxim in great favour with anchorites and recluses--"Retire, the world shut out." We cannot agree with Miss Seward, who describes this hermitage as "a retreat which breathes all the witchery of genius, taste, and sentiment." It is rather fantastical than tasteful, and savours more of eccentricity than sentiment. In the Gothic entrance, there are undoubtedly many fine specimens of carved wood-work, some of which we suspect were the plunder of despoiled convents and churches during the continental wars of the last century; but cla.s.sical, mythological, and scripture subjects are intermingled in odd confusion, and with "most admired disorder." The rooms are small and comfortable, with very low ceilings; the prospect from the dining-room is flat and tame; but several of the miniature views, as seen through small openings of the painted window in the library, are remarkably picturesque, and reveal themselves with a pleasing effect to the eye of the artist or the admirer of natural scenery. The cottage yet contains many articles of furniture and choice rarities, which belonged to the former owners; whose portraits adorn the fanciful little boudoir. Disguised as they are by the strangeness of their costume, we should not like to hazard any opinion of our own as to their personal charms; especially as Miss Seward has been so minutely particular in telling us "all about them." That clever and amusing gossip says of the "ladies," whom she rhapsodizes as "the enchantresses"

of Plas Newydd--

"Lady Eleanor is of middle height, and somewhat beyond the _embonpoint_ as to plumpness; her face round and fair, with the glow of luxuriant health. She has not fine features, but they are agreeable; enthusiasm in her eye, hilarity and benevolence in her smile. Exhaustless is her fund of historic and traditionary knowledge, and of every thing pa.s.sing in the present eventful period.

She expresses all she feels with an ingenuous ardour, at which, the cold-spirited beings stare. I am informed that both these ladies read and speak most of the modern languages. Of the Italian poets, especially of Dante, they are warm admirers. Miss Ponsonby, somewhat taller than her friend, is neither slender nor otherwise, but very graceful. Easy, elegant, yet pensive, is her address and manner.

"Her voice, like lovers' watched, is kind and low."

A face rather long than round, a complexion clear but without bloom, with a countenance which, from its soft melancholy, has a peculiar interest. If her features are not beautiful, they are very sweet and feminine. Though the pensive spirit within permits not her lovely dimples to give mirth to her smile, they increase its sweetness, and, consequently, her power of engaging the affections. We see, through her veil of shading reserve, that all the talents and accomplishments which enrich the mind of Lady Eleanor, exist, with equal powers, in this her charming friend."

We commend these pen and ink portraits to the notice of our readers without controversy; and the more especially, as they may gratify their curiosity still more in this matter, by purchasing from our Publisher a well-executed engraving representing, with all due fidelity, excellent likenesses of the "Ladies of Llangollen;" each, as _Hamlet_ would say, "in her habit as she lived."

Among the treasured relics which the cottage now contains, we were shewn the veritable crutch-headed walking stick, on which Lady Eleanor used to support her aged steps, when rambling through the village on errands of mercy, or sauntering among the pleasure grounds of her mountain-home; and we also saw and handled the broad-brimmed hat worn by Miss Ponsonby, whose head we should judge to have been small and finely formed. O for the genius of a Seward, to have written an ode to that venerable head-dress! and in good truth, one might almost fancy we heard the spirit of that amiable enthusiast, bidding us, like _Gesler's_ captain, "bow down and honour it." Seriously, every little particular connected with the history and habits of the departed "Ladies" is so anxiously prized at Llangollen, that we felt very grateful for the prompt kindness with which the present worthy possessors of the unique residence contributed to our information and amus.e.m.e.nt. We may therefore tell, for the advantage of such of our readers as a.s.sociate their notions of "old maids" with an affectionate regard for the canine and feline tribes, that Lady Eleanor Butler possessed a favourite dog of the turnspit-breed, called "Trust;"

that Miss Ponsonby had a small white poodle, named "Busy;" and that they had a joint interest in a popular cat, answering to the name of "Meggins;" all of which four-footed domestics were especial pets in their garden walks or at their quiet fire-side.

The little domain of Plas-Newydd, if situated in some localities, would be esteemed a miniature paradise, but planted as it is amidst so many scenes of surpa.s.sing loveliness, its limited and somewhat formal characteristics suffer by comparison. The arrangement of the ground might have suited the peculiar tastes and habits of the "recluses;" but it is certainly very far inferior to the picturesque effect, which landscape gardening in the present day could _there_ produce. The prettiest portions of these much-vaunted precints are the shady knoll, overhanging a romantic glen, down which a brawling streamlet leaps its frothing course over a craggy bed; and the rural walk by the gothic fount, into which a pellucid mountain-rill pours its refreshing waters.

Among the remembrances of former days, is the effigy of a guardian 'lion,' (which, under the name of a 'bear,' has been noted by an author whom we have quoted;) the melancholy quadruped is now considerably "used up," and excites a laugh at the burlesque on the monarch of the forest, which his attenuated figure and shrivelled hide present. Plas-Newydd is unquestionably a delightful residence; and its adjacent pleasure grounds and gardens afford most inviting facilities for those who love to make a practical study of horticulture; to ruminate amidst its tranquil retreats over the published works of some favourite authors; or to "meditate,"

like the patriarch, at "even-tide" on the wonders and glories of Eternal Power. Apart therefore from the romantic recollections, with which the singular history of the "Ladies of Llangollen" has invested this fair spot of earth, it presents to the tourist certain attractions, which the reflective explorer of the lovely vallies of the Dee should not neglect.

We heard from some of the older inhabitants several anecdotes of the benevolence and charity of the departed "Ladies," whose memory is most affectionately cherished in the neighbourhood. It has been said that on religious subjects, these ancient friends were divided in opinion; one being a Roman Catholic and the other a Protestant; but the parish clerk, an intelligent old man who knew them well, a.s.sured us that they both regularly attended the services in the Church of Llangollen, and received the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, both there, and at their own cottage during the last illness of Lady Eleanor Butler, from the vicar. With all their eccentricity, their attachment to each other must have been of a pure, unchanging, and fervent character; else would they never have forsworn in the full bloom of youth and beauty, the gay fascinations or the elegant ease of courtly life for the dull monotony of seclusion and celibacy. Both in feeling and intellect, Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby were no common persons; it may of a truth be said of them, that "they lived to a good old age and died honoured and respected;" and if ever the beings of a brighter and holier sphere are permitted to cast back occasional glimpses on the world which they have left, their spirits may sometimes hover over the sacred spot where their ashes repose, and haunt the moon-lit banks of the silvery Dee, in its murmuring current by the lowly church-yard of Llangollen.

VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY.

The picturesque ruins of this venerable structure stand in a lovely and sequestered valley, about two miles from Llangollen, and are approached by as delightful and inviting road as ever rambler need wish to tread.

The Rev. John Williams, in his learned description of this ancient monastery, says:

"The abbey was founded about the year 1200, {58a} and in conformity with the rule {58b} of the Cistercian fraternity, was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. The names by which it was generally known to the Welsh had, however, a particular reference to the locality where it was situated: thus, 'Monachlog y Glyn,' 'Monachlog Glyn Egwestl,' 'Monachlog Pant y Groes.' And in Latin it was called 'Abbatia {58c} de Valle Crucis,' and 'Abbatia de Llanegwest.'

"The remains of the abbey extant at the present day consist of the church, and of a building on the southern side, part of which seems to have formed the Abbot's lodgings, and part to have been the refectory, with the dormitory above. The church is a cruciform building, of which the northern side has been almost entirely destroyed, and without any vestige remaining of its roof, except in the eastern aisle of the southern transept. In the midst of these hallowed precincts the rubbish is heaped up to a great height, caused, probably, by the fall of the northern wall, and by the remains of the roof:--the pavement, if there be any of it subsisting, is entirely concealed, and ash-trees grow luxuriantly upon the mounds, adding to the picturesque effect of the ruin, but saddening the heart of the antiquary. We are unable, therefore, to determine the number of piers that formed the side of the nave; but from the s.p.a.ce between the western end and the central piers, at the intersection of the transepts, we should conjecture this number to have been three, thus making four arches on either side. The choir was without aisles, but each transept had one on the eastern side, which seems to have been used as a chapel. The oldest portion of the church is the choir; the eastern end of which was lighted by three bold and lofty lancet arches, rising from no great height above the level of the pavement to half the alt.i.tude of the building, and by two proportionably smaller lancets above. In the apex of the gable was probably a small aperture, but of this no trace remains; the gable is mutilated, and we judge only from the a.n.a.logy of the western end of the nave. In each of the northern and southern walls of the choir is a lancet window; and two similar windows, but lower in height, occur in each of the eastern walls of the transept aisles.

High up in the southern wall, also, is to be seen a small loophole, communicating with a pa.s.sage which leads over the vaulting of the southern transept aisle to the abbatial building adjoining the church. This pa.s.sage is now blocked up, but it is conjectured to have served either as a closet wherein the abbot could attend service privately, or else as a place of confinement or penitence for the monks. The architecture of this portion of the church corresponds in its style with the date of the foundation,--the commencement of the thirteenth century: the lancets, with their mouldings, are strictly of that date, and the capitals of the shafts, which are worked with great boldness, are of the late Norman period, rather than of that which is called Early-pointed."

"Of all that portion of the nave which occurs between the central tower and the western end, nothing remains but the outer wall of the southern aisle; the western end of it, however, still stands, and is a beautiful example of the richest and purest architecture of the middle of the thirteenth century. Over a central doorway, with deeply recessed mouldings and shafts, and with a bold dog-tooth ornament, each projection of which is elegantly carved into four converging fleurs-de-lys, occur three lofty windows, the central one taller than those at its sides--all with remarkably bold splays, both internally and externally, enriched with shafts and mouldings. The central window appears to have been of only one light, though broad, and to have had its arch occupied by a foliation of six cusps, and therefore of seven recesses,--the foliating s.p.a.ces being solid. The side windows are each of two lights, the princ.i.p.al arch-head being solid, but pierced with a single aperture divided into six foliations. Above these three windows runs a kind of framework, a.n.a.lagous in some respects to that at the eastern end of the choir.

The gable is pierced above these windows with a small but beautiful wheel-window of eight pointed compartments, each trifoliated; the divisions being moulded in one order, and converging to a central ring, itself pierced to admit the light. Above all is a square quatrefoliated aperture in the very apex of the gable. On the external face of the western end are two bold b.u.t.tresses of a single stage, that on the south-eastern side being pierced with loopholes for a circular staircase formed in the thickness of itself and the wall."

The Abbey of Valle Crucis was dissolved in the year 1535, and is said to have been the first of the Welsh monasteries which underwent the doom of abolition.

Romantic Abbey! hallow'd be the rest Of those, who rear'd thee in this wild green vale A temple lovely as the place is blest-- And stern as beautiful:--but words would fail To paint thy ruin'd glories, though the gale Of desolation sweeps thro' thy h.o.a.r pile, And waves the long gra.s.s thro' thy cloisters pale Where the dark ivy scorns day's garish smile, And weed-grown fragments crown thy desecrated aisle.

How sweet the sounds!--whose soft enchantments rose 'Mid those wild woodlands at the matin prime-- Or when the vesper song at evening's close Wafted the soul beyond the cares of time, To that Elysium of a brighter clime Where thro' heaven's portals golden vistas gleam, And the high harps of Seraphim sublime Came o'er the spirit like a prophet's dream, Till faded earth away on glory's endless beam.

Oft the proud feudal chief, whom human law Or kingly pow'r could bind not, nor control, Has paus'd before thy gates in holy awe, And felt religion's charm subdue his soul-- The heart that joy'd to hear the savage howl Of battle on the breeze, has soften'd been-- List'ning the hymns of peace that sweetly stole O'er this lone vale, where fancy's eye hath seen Forms bright and angel-like glide thro' thy vistas green:

And angel forms here at thy altar knelt, Fair dames, and gentle maidens whose bright eyes The sternest heart of warrior-mould could melt, Soft'ning grim war with gen'rous sympathy-- Pleading, like pity wafted from the skies To quell the stormy rage of savage man: And hence the gentle manners had their rise-- Hence knights for lady's praise all dangers ran-- And thus, the glorious age of chivalry began.

The Abbey derives its name (the Vale of the Cross) from a sepulchral monument commonly called "THE PILLAR OF ELISEG," which stands on an ancient tumulus in the middle of this beautifully secluded glen. It was erected by Cyngen ab Cadell Dryrnllug, in memory of his great grandfather Eliseg, whose son Brochmail Ysgythrog, grandfather of the founder of this rude monument of filial veneration, was engaged in the memorable border wars at the close of the sixth century; and was defeated at the Battle of Chester, A.D. 607. During the great rebellion this pillar was thrown down by Oliver Cromwell's "Reformers," who in their fiery zeal for destruction mistook it for a "Popish Cross;" and it remained for more than a century in its broken rec.u.mbent condition, when it was restored by the patriotism and intelligence of Mr. Lloyd of Trevor Hall, and replaced upon its pedestal with a suitable memorial to record the fact. It now forms an interesting relic of antiquity, and is probably the oldest British Cross (bearing a carved inscription) which exists in these islands. That said inscription has long been a puzzle to the learned investigator of archaeological remains.

Having wandered through the verdant meads of the "happy valley," the adventurous tourist may probably wish to climb the lofty hill, which is crowned by the romantic ruins of the Castle of Dinas Bran. This memorable fortress of the past, is a remarkable object from all parts of the vale; for whose safety and defence it was long the abode of a line of chiefs renowned in Cambrian lore. The view from the summit is exceedingly picturesque, grand, and imposing; and naturally prompts the exclamation of the Poet of the Seasons--

"Heavens! what a goodly prospect spreads around."

On descending the mountain-path, the traveller may perchance look round for a comfortable resting-place and good refreshment; he will readily find both, either at the Hand, or the King's Head Hotel. In the alb.u.m of the latter house of entertainment he may also peruse the following baccha.n.a.lian effusion in honour of "Llangollen Ale," which he will then be in the mood to enjoy; and as he quaffs this nectar of the valley, he may thus chaunt its praises, if in a convivial humour, to the music of a Welsh harp--

LLANGOLLEN ALE.

While other poets loudly rant About Llangollen's Vale, Let me, with better taste, descant Upon Llangollen Ale.

The daughters of the place are fair, Its sons are strong and hale: What makes them so? Llangollen air?

No, no!--Llangollen Ale.

And Nature only beautified The landscape, to prevail On travellers to turn aside And quaff Llangollen Ale.

For though the scene might please at first As charms would quickly stale; While he who tastes will ever thirst To drink Llangollen Ale.

From rock to rock the Dee may roam, And chafe without avail; It cannot match its yeasty foam Against Llangollen Ale.

The umber-tinted trees that crown Bron-vawr's ridge are pale, Contrasted with the nutty brown That tints Llangollen Ale.

Nor is the keep of Dinas-bran, Though high and hard to scale, So elevated as the man Who drinks Llangollen Ale.

Thy shattered arch, beside the way, Val-crucis, tells a tale Of monks who sometimes went astray To quaff Llangollen Ale.

And still upon the saintly spot The pilgrim may regale His fainting spirits with a pot Of good Llangollen Ale.

For though the ancient portress may Not offer it for sale, Yet cheerfully to all who pay She gives Llangollen Ale.

And, Eliseg, thy pillar rude Is merely--I'll be bail-- A monument to him who brewed The first Llangollen Ale.

In short, each ruin, stream, or tree, Within Llangollen's Vale, Where'er I turn, whate'er I see, Is redolent of Ale.