The Journals of Lewis and Clark, 1804-1806 Part 113

As we could not set out we thought it best to send out some hunters and accordingly dispatched Sheilds and Collins on this side the Netul for that purpose with orders to return in the evening or sooner if they were successfull. The hunters returned late in the evening unsuccessfull. we have not now more than one day's provision on hand.

we directed Drewyer and the Feildses to set out tomorrow morning early, and indevour to provide us some provision on the bay beyond point William. we were visited to day by some Clatsop indians who left us in the evening. our sick men Willard and bratton do not seem to recover; the former was taken with a violent pain in his leg and thye last night. Bratton is now so much reduced that I am somewhat uneasy with rispect to his recovery; the pain of which he complains most seems to be seated in the small of his back and remains obstinate. I beleive that it is the rheumatism with which they are both afflicted.

[Clark, March 21, 1806]

Friday March 21st 1806 as we could not Set out we thought it best to Send out Some hunters and accordingly dispatched Shields and Collins on this Side of the Netul for that purpose with orders to return in the evening or Sooner if they were Successfull. they returned late in the evening unsuccessfull. we have not now more than two days provisions on hand. we derected Drewyer and the two Fieldses to Set out tomorrow morning early, and indevour to provide us Some provision on the Bay beyond point William. we were visited to day by Some Clatsops who left us in the evening. our sick men willard and Bratten do not Seem to recover; the former was taken with a violent pain in his leg and thye last night. Bratten is now so much reduced that I am Somewhat uneasy with respect to his recovery; the pain of which he complains most Seems to be Settled in the Small of his back and remains obstenate. I believe that it is the Rheumatism with which they are both affected.-.

[Lewis, March 22, 1806]

Sat.u.r.day March 22cd 1806.

Drewyer and the Feildses departed this morning agreably to the order of the last evening. we sent out seven hunters this morning in different directions on this side the Netul. about 10 A.M. we were visited by 4 Clatsops and a killamucks; they brought some dried Anchoveis and a dog for sale which we purchased. the air is perefectly temperate, but it continues to rain in such a manner that there be is no possibility of geting our canoes completed.--at 12 OCk. we were visited by Comowooll and 3 of the Clatsops. to this Cheif we left our houses and funiture.

he has been much more kind an hospitable to us than any other indian in this neighbourhood. the Indians departed in the evening. the hunters all returned except Colter, unsuccessfull. we determined to set out tomorrow at all events, and to stop the canoes temperarily with Mud and halt the first fair day and pay them. the leafing of the hucklebury riminds us of spring.

[Clark, March 22, 1806]

Sat.u.r.day March 22nd 1806 Drewyer and the two Fieldses departed this morning agreably to the order of last evening. we Sent out Six hunters this morning in different directions on both Sides of the Netul. about 10 A.M. we were visited by Que-ne-o alias Commorwool 8 Clatsops and a Kil-a-mox; they brought Some dried Anchovies, a common Otter Skin and a Dog for Sale all of which we purchased. the Dog we purchased for our Sick men, the fish for to add to our Small Stock of provision's, and the Skin to cover my papers. those Indians left us in the evening. the air is perfectly temperate, but it continues to rain in Such a manner that there is no possibillity of getting our canoes completed in order to Set out on our homeward journey. The Clatsops inform us that Several of their nation has the Sore throat, one of which has laterly died with this disorder. the Hunters Sent out to day all returned except Colter unsessfull.

[Lewis, March 23, 1806]

Sunday March 23rd 1806.

Half after 9 A.M. Colter arrived, having killed one Elk but so distant that we could not send for the meat and get arround Point William today, we therefore prefered seting out and depending on Drewyer and the hunters we have sent forward for meat. the wind is pretty high but it seems to be the common opinion that we can pa.s.s point William. we accordingly distributed the baggage and directed the canoes to be launched and loaded for our departure.--at 1 P.M. we bid a final adieu to Fort Clatsop. we had not proceeded more than a mile before we met Delashelwilt and a party of 20 Chinnooks men and women. this Cheif leaning that we were in want of a canoe some days past, had brought us one for sale, but being already supplyed we did not purchase it. I obtained one Sea Otter skin from this party. at a 1/4 before three we had pa.s.sed Meriwethers bay and commenced coasting the difficult sh.o.r.e; at 1/2 after five we doubled point William, and at 7 arrived in the mouth of a small creek where we found our hunters. they had killed 2 Elk, at the distance of a mile & 1/2. it was too late to send after it this evening. we therefore encamped on the Stard side of the Creek. the wind was not very hard.

[Clark, March 23, 1806]

Sunday 23rd March 1806 This morning proved So raney and uncertain that we were undeturmined for Some time whether we had best Set out & risque the river which appeared to be riseing or not. Jo. Colter returned haveing killed an Elk about 3 miles towards Point Adams. the rained Seased and it became fair about Meridean, at which time we loaded our Canoes & at 1 P.M.

left Fort Clatsop on our homeward bound journey. at this place we had wintered and remained from the 7th of Decr. 1805 to this day and have lived as well as we had any right to expect, and we can Say that we were never one day without 3 meals of Some kind a day either pore Elk meat or roots, not withstanding the repeeted fall of rain which has fallen almost Constantly Since we pa.s.sed the long narrows on the ____ of Novr. last indeed we have had only ____ days fair weather since that time. Soon after we had Set out from Fort Clatsop we were met by De lash el wilt & 8 men of the Chinnooks, and Delashelwilts wife the old bond and his Six Girls, they had, a Canoe, a Sea otter Skin, Dried fish and hats for Sale, we purchased a Sea otter Skin, and proceeded on, thro Meriwethers Bay, there was a Stiff breese from the S. W. which raised Considerable Swells around Meriwethers point which was as much as our Canoes Could ride. above point William we came too at the Camp of Drewyer & the 2 Field's. they had killed 2 Elk which was about 11/2 miles distant. here we Encampd. for the night having made 16 miles.

[Lewis, March 24, 1806]

Monday March 24th 1806.

This morning we sent out a party of 15, at light, for the meat, and concluded to take breakfast before we set out. they soon returned. we breakfasted and set out at 1/2 after 9 A.M. Saw a white woodp.e.c.k.e.r with a red head of the small kind common to the United States; this bird has but lately returned. they do not remain during the winter. the country thick and heavily timbered. we saw very few waterfowl today, not a single swan, white brant nor a small goose is to be seen. a few Cormorant, duckinmallard, b.u.t.terbox, and common large geese were only to be found the tide being out this morning we found some difficulty in pa.s.sing through the bay below the Cathlahmah village; this side of the river is very shallow to the distance of 4 miles from the sh.o.r.e tho there is a channel sufficient for canoes near S. side. at 1 P.M. we arrived at the Cathlahmah village where we halted and purchased some wappetoe, a dog for the sick, and a hat for one of the men. on one of the seal Islands opposite to the village of these people thy have scaffolded their dead in canoes elivating them above tidewater mark.

these people are very fond of sculpture in wood of which they exhibit a variety of specemines about their houses. the broad peices supporting the center of the roof and those through which the doors are cut, seem to be the peices on which they most display their taist. I saw some of these which represented human figures setting and supporting the burthen on their sholders. at half after 3 P.M. we set out and continued our rout among the seal Islands; not paying much attention we mistook our rout which an Indian perceiving pursued overtook us and put us in the wright channel. this Cathlahmah claimed the small canoe which we had taken from the Clatsops. however he consented very willingly to take an Elk's skin for it which I directed should be given him and he immediately returned. we continued our rout along the South side of the river and encamped at an old village of 9 houses opposite to the lower Wackkiac.u.m village. the night was cold tho wood was abundant after dark two Chinnook men came to us in a small canoe. they remained with us all night. came 15 miles today.

[Clark, March 24, 1806]

Monday 24th of March 1806 Sent out 15 men verry early this morning for the flesh of the two Elk killed by Drewyer and Fields yesterday. they returned at 8 oClock, after taking a Slight brackfast we Set out at half past 9 a.m. and proceeded to the Cath lah mah Village at 1 P.M. and remained untill 1/2 after 3 p.m.at this village we purchased a fiew wappato and a Dog for our Sick men Willard and Bratten who are yet in a weak State. at this Village I saw two very large elegant Canoes inlaid with Shills, those Shills I took to be teeth at first View, and the nativs informed Several of the men that they the teeth of their enemies which they had killed in War. in examineing of them Closely haveing taken out Several pices, we found that were Sea Sh.e.l.ls which yet contained a part of the iner ____ they also deckerate their Smaller wooden vessles with those Sh.e.l.ls which have much the appearance of humane teeth, Capt Cook may have mistaken those Shills verry well for humane teeth without a Close examination. The Village of these people is the dirtiest and Stinkingest place I ever Saw in any Shape whatever, and the inhabitants partake of the carrestick of the Village. we proceeded on through Some difficult and narrow Channels between the Seal Islands, and the South Side to an old village on the South Side opposit to the lower War ki a com village, and Encamped. to this old villg. a very considerable deposit of the dead at a Short distance below, in the usial and Customary way of the nativs of this Coast in Canoes raised from the ground as before described. Soon after we made our Camp 2 Indians visited us from the opposit Side, one of them Spoke Several words of English and repeeted the names of the traders, and maney of the Salors.

made 16 Miles

[Lewis, March 25, 1806]

Tuesday March 25th 1806.

The morning being disagreeably cold we remained and took break-fast. at 7 A.M. we set out and continued our rout along the South Coast of the river against the wind and a strong current, our progress was of course but slow. at noon we halted and dined. here some Clatsops came to us in a canoe loaded with dryed anchovies, which they call Olthen, Wappetoe and Sturgeon. they informed us that they had been up on a trading voyage to the Skillutes.--I observe that the green bryer which I have previously mentioned as being common on this river below tide water retains it's leaves all winter.--the red willow and seven bark begin to put fourth their leaves.--after dinner we pa.s.sed the river to a large Island 2 and continued our rout allong the side of the same about a mile when we arrived at a Cathlahmah fishing cam of one lodge; here we found 3 men 2 women and a couple of boys, who from appearances had remained here some time for the purpose of taking sturgeon, which they do by trolling. they had ten or douzen very fine sturgeon which had not been long taken. we offered to purchase some of their fish but they asked us such an extravegant price that we declined purchase. one of the men purchased a sea Otterskin at this lodge, for which he gave a dressed Elkskin and an handkercheif. near this lodge we met some Cathlahmahs who had been up the river on a fishing excurtion. they had a good stock of fish on board, but did not seem disposed to sell them.

we remained at this place about half an hour and then continued our rout up the Island to it's head and pa.s.sed to the south side. the wind in the evening was very hard. it was with some difficulty that we could find a spot proper for an encampment, the sh.o.r.e being a swamp for several miles back; at length late in the evening opposite to the place we had encamped on the 6th of November last; we found the entrance of a small creek which afforded us a safe harbour from the wind and encamped. the ground was low and moist tho we obtained a tolerable encampment. here we found another party of Cathlahmahs about 10 in number who had established a temperary residence for the purpose of fishing and taking seal. they had taken a fine parcel of sturgeon and some seal. they gave us some of the fleese of the seal which I found a great improvement to the poor Elk. here we found Drewyer and the Feildses who had been seperated from us since morning; they had pa.s.sed on the North side of the large Island which was much nearer. the bottom lands are covered with cottonwood, the growth with a broad leaf which resembles ash except the leaf. the underbrush red willow, broad leafed willow, sevenbark, goosburry, green bryer & the larged leafed thorn; the latter is now in bloom; the natives inform us that it bears a freut about an inch in diameter which is good to eat.

[Clark, March 25, 1806]

Tuesday 25th of March 1806 Last night and this morning are cool wend hard a head and tide going out, after an early brackfast we proceeded on about 4 miles and came too on the South Side to worm and dry our Selves a little. Soon after we had landed two Indians Came from a War kia c.u.m village on the opposit Side with 2 dogs and a fiew Wappato to Sell neither of which we bought. Som Clatsops pa.s.sed down in a Canoe loaded with fish and Wappato. as the wind was hard a head and tide against us we Concluded to delay untill the return of the tide which we expected at 1 oClock, at which hour we Set out met two Canoes of Clatsops loaded with dried anchovies and Sturgion which they had taken and purchased above we crossed over to an Island on which was a Cath lahmah fishing Camp of one Lodge; here we found 3 man two woman and a couple of boys who must have for Some time for the purpose of taking Sturgeon which they do by trolling. they had 10 or 12 very fine Sturgeon which had not been long taken; we wished to purchase some of their fish but they asked Such extravegent prices that we declined purchaseing. one of our Party purchased a Sea otter Skin at this Lodge for which he gave a dressed Elk Skin & a Handkerchief. we remained at this place about half an hour and then Continued our rout. the winds in the evening was verry hard, it was with Some dificuelty that we Could find a Spot proper for an encampment, the Sh.o.r.e being a Swamp for Several miles back; at length late in the evening opposit to the place we had encamped on the 6th of Novr. last; we found the enterance of a Small Creek which offered us a Safe harbour from the Winds and Encamped. the Ground was low and moist tho we obtained a tolerable encampment. here we found another party of Cathlahmahs about 10 in number, who had established a temporary residence for the purpose of fishing and takeing Seal. they had taken about 12 Sturgeon and Some Seal. they gave us Some of the flesh of the Seal which I found a great improvement to the poor Elk. here we found Drewyer and the 2 Fields who had been Seperated from us Since Morning; they had pa.s.sed on the North Side of the large Island which was much nearest. the bottom lands are Covered with a Species of Arspine, the Growth with a broad leaf which resembles ash except the leaf. the under brush red willow, broad leafed Willow, Seven bark, Goose berry, Green bryor, and the larged leaf thorn; the latter is Now in blume, the nativs inform us that it bears a fruit about an Inch in diamieter which is good to eate. the red willow and 7 bark begin to put foth their leaves. The green bryor which I have before mentioned retains leaves all winter. made 15 Miles

[Lewis, March 26, 1806]

Wednesday March 26th 1806.

The wind blew so hard this morning that we delayed untill 8 A.M. we gave a medal of small size to a man by the name of Wal-lal'-le, a princ.i.p.al man among the Cathlahmahs, he appeared very thankfull for the honour conferred on him and presented us a large sturgeon. we continued our rout up the river to an old village on the Stard. side where we halted for dinner. we met on the way the princ.i.p.al Cheif of the Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-woh-cap, who had been up the river on a trading voyage. he gave us some Wappetoe and fish; we also purchased some of the latter. soon after we halted for dinner the two Wackiac.u.ms who have been pursuing us since yesterday morning with two dogs for sale, arrived. they wish tobacco in exchange for their dogs which we are not disposed to give as our stock is now reduced to a very few carrots. our men who have been accustomed to the use of this article Tobaco and to whom we are now obliged to deny the uce of this article appear to suffer much for the want of it. they subst.i.tute the bark of the wild crab which they chew; it is very bitter, and they a.s.sure me they find it a good subst.i.tute for tobacco. the smokers subst.i.tute the inner bark of the red willow and the sacacommis. here our hunters joined us having killed three Eagles and a large goose. I had now an oportunity of comparing the bald with the grey Eagle; I found that the greay Eagle was about 1/4 larger, it's legs and feet were dark while those of the bald Eagle wer of a fine orrange yellow; the iris of the eye is also of a dark yellowish brown while that of the other is of a bright silvery colour with a slight admixture of yellow. after dinner we proceeded on and pa.s.sed an Elegant and extensive bottom on the South side and an island near it's upper point which we call f.a.n.n.y's Island and bottom.

the greater part of the bottom is a high dry prarie. near the river towards the upper point we saw a fine grove of whiteoak trees; we saw some deer and Elk at a distance in the prarie, but did not delay for the purpose of hunting them. we continued our rout after dinner untill late in the evening and encamped on the next island above f.a.n.n.y's Island. we found it difficult to obtain as much wood as answered our purposes. the hunters who had proceeded on before us after dinner did not join us this evening. some Indians visited us after dark, but did not remain long. agreeably to our estimate as we decended the river, we came 16 m. 23rd, 16 m. the 24th, 15 the 25th, and 18 m. the 26th, tho I now think that our estimate in decending the river was too short.

[Clark, March 26, 1806]

Wednesday March 26th 1806 The wind blew So hard untill 8 A M. that we detained, we gave a Medal to a Man by the name of Wal-lal-le a princ.i.p.al man among the Cath lah mahs, he appeared very thankfull for the honor Confured on him and presented us with a large Sturgion. we Continued our rout up the river to an old Village on the South Side where we halted for dinner. we met on the way the princ.i.p.al Chief of the Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-wah-cop, who had been up the river on a trading voyage, he gave us some Wappato and fish, we also purchased Some Wappato Soon after halted for dinner at an Old Village on the South point opposit the lower pt. of f.a.n.n.ys Island.

The two Warkiac.u.ms who had been pursueing us Since yester day morning with two dogs for Sale, arrived. they wish Tobacco in exchange for their dogs which we are not disposed to give, as our Stock is now reduced to 3 carrots. our men who have been acustomed to the use of this article, and to Whome we are now obliged to deny the use of this article appear to Suffer Much for the want of it. they Subst.i.tute the bark of the wild Crab which they Chew; it is very bitter and they a.s.sure me they find it a good Subst.i.tute for tobacco. the Smokers Subst.i.tute the iner bark of the redwillow and the saccommis.

here our hunters joined us haveing killed 3 Eagles and a large Wild goose. I had now an oppertunity of Comparing the bald with the grey Eagle; I found the grey Eagle about 1/4 largest, its legs and feet were dark which those of the bald eagle were of a fine orrange yellow; the iris of the eye is also of a dark yellowish brown, while that of the Grey is of a light Silvery colour with a Slight admixture of yellow.

after dinner I walked on Sh.o.r.e through an eligant bottom on the South Side opposit to f.a.n.n.ys Island.

This bottom we also Call f.a.n.n.ys bottom it is extensive and an open leavel plain except near the river bank which is high dry rich oak land. I saw Some deer & Elk at a distance in the Prarie. we continued untill late in the evening and encamped on a Small Island near the Middle of the river haveing made 18 Miles. 2 Indians Visited us this evining

[Lewis, March 27, 1806]

Thursday March 27th 1806.

We set out early this morning and were shortly after joined by some of the Skillutes who came along side in a small canoe for the purpose of trading roots and fish. at 10 A.M. we arrived at two houses of this nation on the Stard. side where we halted for breakfast. here we overtook our hunters, they had killed nothing. the natives appeared extreemly hospitable, gave us dryed Anchovies, Sturgeon, wappetoe, quamash, and a speceis of small white tuberous roots about 2 inches in length and as thick as a man's finger; these are eaten raw, are crisp, milkey, and agreeably flavored. most of the party were served by the natives with as much as they could eat; they insisted on our remaining all day with them and hunting the Elk and deer which they informed us were very abundant in their neighbourhood. but as the weather would not permit us to dry our canoes in order to pitch them we declined their friendly invitation, and resumed our voyage at 12 OCk. the princ.i.p.al village of these Skillutes reside on the lower side of the Cow-e-lis'-kee river a few miles from it's entrance into the columbia.

these people are said to be numer-ous. in their dress, habits, manners and language they differ but little from the Clatsops Chinnooks &c.

they have latterly been at war with Chinnooks but peace is said now to be restored between them, but their intercourse is not yet resumed. no Chinnooks come above the marshey islands nor do the Skillutes visit the mouth of the Columbia. the Clatsops, Cathlahmahs and Wackkiac.u.ms are the carriers between these nations being in alliance with both.--The Coweliskee is 150 yards wide, is deep and from indian Information navigable a very considerable distance for canoes. it discharges itself into the Columbia about three miles above a remarkable high rocky vole which is situated on the N. side of the river by which it is washed on the South side and is seperated from the Nothern hills of the river by a wide bottom of several miles to which it is united. I suspect that this river waters the country lying West of the range of mountains which pa.s.s the columbia between the great falls and rapids, and north of the same nearly to the low country which commences on the N. W.

coast about Lat.i.tude ____ North. above the Skillutes on this river another nation by the name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside, who are said also to be numerous. at the distance Of 2 m. above the village at which we breakfasted we pa.s.sed the entrance of this river; we saw several fishing camps of the Skillutes on both sides of the Columbia, and were attended all the evening by parties of the natives in their canoes who visited us for the purpose of trading their fish and roots; we purchased as many as we wished on very moderate terms; they seemed perfectly satisfyed with the exchange and behaved themselves in a very orderly manner. late in the evening we pa.s.sed our camp of the 5th of November and encamped about 41/2 above at the commencement of the bottom land on stard. below Deer Island. we had scarcely landed before we were visited by a large canoe with eight men; from them we obtained a dryed fruit which resembled the raspburry and which I beeive to be the fruit of the large leafed thorn frequently mentioned. it is reather ascid tho pleasently flavored. I preserved a specemine of this fruit I fear that it has been baked in the process of drying and if so the seed will not vegitate. saw the Cottonwood, sweet willow, oak, ash and the broad leafed ash, the growth which resembles the beach &c. these form the growth of the bottom lands while the hills are covered almost exclusively with the various speceis of fir heretofore discribed. the black Alder appears as well on some parts of the hills as the bottoms.

before we set out from the Skillute village we sent on Gibson's canoe and Drewyers with orders to proceed as fast as they could to Deer island and there to hunt and wait our arrival. we wish to halt at that place to repair our canoes if possible. the indians who visited us this evening remained but a short time, they pa.s.sed the river to the oposite side and encamped. the night as well as the day proved cold wet and excessively disagreeable. we came 20 miles today.