The Fracture Zone Part 8

Effendi Sir, Master. Sir, Master.

Emir A prince, a Turkish military commander. A prince, a Turkish military commander.

Eothen Meaning "from the East," the t.i.tle of and only difficult word in Alexander Kinglake's magnificent book of travels in the Near East, published in 1844 and never since out of print. Meaning "from the East," the t.i.tle of and only difficult word in Alexander Kinglake's magnificent book of travels in the Near East, published in 1844 and never since out of print.

Fener The old Greek quarter of Istanbul, and headquarters of the Orthodox Church-the only surviving relic of old Byzantium. The old Greek quarter of Istanbul, and headquarters of the Orthodox Church-the only surviving relic of old Byzantium.

FYROM Acronym for the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, used in some quarters to soothe Greek anger at what they consider Skopje's illegal expropriation of the name of their eastern province. Acronym for the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, used in some quarters to soothe Greek anger at what they consider Skopje's illegal expropriation of the name of their eastern province.

Gheg A northern Albanian people and language, in constant rivalry with their southern neighbors, the Tost A northern Albanian people and language, in constant rivalry with their southern neighbors, the Tost (q.v). (q.v).

Grand vizier The Chief Imperial Minister of the Ottoman Empire, the hugely powerful right-hand man of the Sultan. The Chief Imperial Minister of the Ottoman Empire, the hugely powerful right-hand man of the Sultan.

Gurkha Diminutive Nepalese soldiers of fierce reputation, hundreds of whom have been a.s.signed since Indian independence to both the British and Indian armies, and claiming to be mercenaries in neither force. Their loyalty to the British crown is legendary, and they have won many battle honors in wars and skirmishes from Burma to the Falkland Islands. A Gurkha battalion a.s.signed to NATO was the first regular unit into Kosovo in June 1999. Diminutive Nepalese soldiers of fierce reputation, hundreds of whom have been a.s.signed since Indian independence to both the British and Indian armies, and claiming to be mercenaries in neither force. Their loyalty to the British crown is legendary, and they have won many battle honors in wars and skirmishes from Burma to the Falkland Islands. A Gurkha battalion a.s.signed to NATO was the first regular unit into Kosovo in June 1999.

Gusla A single-stringed bowed instrument of mournful sound used by Slavs to accompany the reciting of epic poems. A single-stringed bowed instrument of mournful sound used by Slavs to accompany the reciting of epic poems.

Halal Food prepared according to Islamic law and tradition. Food prepared according to Islamic law and tradition.

Halvah A Turkish sweet made of honey and sesame flour. A Turkish sweet made of honey and sesame flour.

Hammam The Turkish bath: communal, steamy, and dreamily erotic. The Turkish bath: communal, steamy, and dreamily erotic.

Hammer film Low-budget horror movie, after the somewhat-less-than-Oscar-standard s.e.x-and-gore films made at the London-based Hammer Film Studios. Low-budget horror movie, after the somewhat-less-than-Oscar-standard s.e.x-and-gore films made at the London-based Hammer Film Studios.

Hapsburg Great European sovereign dynasty, originating at Castle Hapsburg in Aargau, Switzerland, and ruling, through its Spanish and Austro-Hungarian branches, immense swaths of territory from Holland to the Balkans. Great European sovereign dynasty, originating at Castle Hapsburg in Aargau, Switzerland, and ruling, through its Spanish and Austro-Hungarian branches, immense swaths of territory from Holland to the Balkans.

Harem The family quarters or, more commonly, the female quarters of a substantial Turkish or Arab house or palace. The family quarters or, more commonly, the female quarters of a substantial Turkish or Arab house or palace.

Herzegovina The hot and dry southern portion-named for a German duke, or The hot and dry southern portion-named for a German duke, or herzog herzog-of the Bosnian Federation.

Hofburg Vienna's vast imperial palace, from which the Hapsburgs ruled for six centuries, until 1918. Vienna's vast imperial palace, from which the Hapsburgs ruled for six centuries, until 1918.

Hoxha, Enver Albanian leader and princ.i.p.al architect of the state's fiercely isolationist, rigidly xenophobic, and diehard communist policies. He died in 1985 and is little missed. Albanian leader and princ.i.p.al architect of the state's fiercely isolationist, rigidly xenophobic, and diehard communist policies. He died in 1985 and is little missed.

Humvee U.S. Armymade High Mobility Vehicle, with distinctive wide-track appearance. A civilian version, the Hummer, has found some limited appeal among the American rich. U.S. Armymade High Mobility Vehicle, with distinctive wide-track appearance. A civilian version, the Hummer, has found some limited appeal among the American rich.

IFOR In Bosnia, NATO's Dayton-agreement Implementation Force. In Bosnia, NATO's Dayton-agreement Implementation Force.

Illyria Country north and east of the Adriatic, roughly congruent with the Dinaric Alps Country north and east of the Adriatic, roughly congruent with the Dinaric Alps (q.v.), (q.v.), and subsumed into the former Yugoslavia. and subsumed into the former Yugoslavia.

Imam The officiating leader of prayer in a Muslim mosque. The officiating leader of prayer in a Muslim mosque.

Istria A large peninsula on the eastern Adriatic coast, south of Trieste. A large peninsula on the eastern Adriatic coast, south of Trieste.

Ixarette Sign language, introduced for reasons of serenity and dignity to the Ottoman court by Suleyman the Magnificent ( Sign language, introduced for reasons of serenity and dignity to the Ottoman court by Suleyman the Magnificent (q.v.), and initially taught by a pair of mute brothers. and initially taught by a pair of mute brothers.

Janissary The Ottoman Empire's crack infantry soldiers, and Sultan's guard: often, and until their abolition in 1826, they were Slavs, tributary children from Balkan Christian families. The Ottoman Empire's crack infantry soldiers, and Sultan's guard: often, and until their abolition in 1826, they were Slavs, tributary children from Balkan Christian families.

Jasenovac Notorious Croatian concentration camp near Zagreb, where thousands of Serbs and Jews were butchered, often following forcible conversion to Catholicism. Notorious Croatian concentration camp near Zagreb, where thousands of Serbs and Jews were butchered, often following forcible conversion to Catholicism.

Juche North Korea's rigid policy, invented by Kim II Sung, of socialist self-sufficiency. North Korea's rigid policy, invented by Kim II Sung, of socialist self-sufficiency.

Kaaba The black dolerite cube at the center of the Great Mosque in Mecca, and thus the spiritual heart of the Islamic faith. The black dolerite cube at the center of the Great Mosque in Mecca, and thus the spiritual heart of the Islamic faith.

Kapia The wider central part of a Turkish-built bridge, where merchants might set up stalls, sentries might stand, and pa.s.sersby might rest or stop to gossip. The wider central part of a Turkish-built bridge, where merchants might set up stalls, sentries might stand, and pa.s.sersby might rest or stop to gossip.

Karst Porous limestone and the unusually dramatic topography that it and the erosive effect of rain- and stream-waters help create. Porous limestone and the unusually dramatic topography that it and the erosive effect of rain- and stream-waters help create.

Kastrioti, Gjerg The former name of the great Albanian warrior-hero, Skanderbeg The former name of the great Albanian warrior-hero, Skanderbeg (q.v.). (q.v.).

KFOR NATO's Kosovo Force. NATO's Kosovo Force.

Kismet The Turkish word for fate. The Turkish word for fate.

KLA Kosovo Liberation Army, a guerrilla group bent on securing an independent Kosovar state. Kosovo Liberation Army, a guerrilla group bent on securing an independent Kosovar state. See also See also UCK. UCK.

Krajina The old military frontier between the Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman Empires, populated on Hapsburg initiative by Serbian refugees, creating Serbian Orthodox enclaves in what later became Catholic Croatia. The old military frontier between the Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman Empires, populated on Hapsburg initiative by Serbian refugees, creating Serbian Orthodox enclaves in what later became Catholic Croatia.

Kukri The sharp curved knife traditionally carried by all Gurkhas ( The sharp curved knife traditionally carried by all Gurkhas (q.v.). The legendary sharpness of the weapons is such that, during the Falklands War, Argentine soldiers were led to believe they could have their heads cut off during the night and not know it. It briefly became part of the wake-up drill for some less intelligent conscripts to shake their heads to make sure this had not happened.

Lazar, Prince Heroic Serb leader, subject of countless epic poems, who was defeated by the Ottomans-choosing death rather than dishonor at Turkish hands-at the Battle of Kosovo Polje in 1389. Heroic Serb leader, subject of countless epic poems, who was defeated by the Ottomans-choosing death rather than dishonor at Turkish hands-at the Battle of Kosovo Polje in 1389.

Lok.u.m From the Turkish phrase for "comfortable morsel," the soft, gummy, and sweetly fragrant substance that came to be known as "Turkish delight." From the Turkish phrase for "comfortable morsel," the soft, gummy, and sweetly fragrant substance that came to be known as "Turkish delight."

Konditorei An elegant, mirrored Viennese coffeehouse, often frequented by middle-aged women. An elegant, mirrored Viennese coffeehouse, often frequented by middle-aged women.

Mamelukes Egyptian rulers, originally Caucasian slaves, who ruled from Cairo under the authority of an Ottoman viceroy. Egyptian rulers, originally Caucasian slaves, who ruled from Cairo under the authority of an Ottoman viceroy.

Marmite A dark and viscous yeasty delight much loved by Britons, and fervently missed by all expatriates; not to be confused with the similarly colored but feeble Australian imitator known as Vegemite. A dark and viscous yeasty delight much loved by Britons, and fervently missed by all expatriates; not to be confused with the similarly colored but feeble Australian imitator known as Vegemite.

Metternich, Prince Clemens von Austrian statesman, one of the great geopoliticians of all time, architect of nineteenth-century European stability and conservatism. Austrian statesman, one of the great geopoliticians of all time, architect of nineteenth-century European stability and conservatism.

Metropolitan A senior Orthodox cleric, senior in rank to an archbishop but inferior to a patriarch: addressed as "Your Beat.i.tude." A senior Orthodox cleric, senior in rank to an archbishop but inferior to a patriarch: addressed as "Your Beat.i.tude."

Milosevic, Slobodan The almost universally reviled bogeyman of the Balkan conflict since 1989, he remains indicted by the Hague War Crimes tribunal, though simultaneously remaining president of his country. Milosevic was born of a Montenegrin father and mother, both of whom killed themselves; he married and remains married to his childhood sweetheart, Mirjana, who, as is so often the case, appears to be the power behind this particular throne. Milosevic, a former official in the Yugoslav gas monopoly and an exceptionally skillful Communist Party boss, has managed to outflank almost all foreigners with whom he has had to deal, giving him a reputation as one of the craftiest and most difficult nationalist figures in postwar Europe. There is a belief abroad, almost certainly erroneous, that his removal from office would solve the Balkan problems for all time; most nations' foreign policies include his removal high on their global wish lists. The almost universally reviled bogeyman of the Balkan conflict since 1989, he remains indicted by the Hague War Crimes tribunal, though simultaneously remaining president of his country. Milosevic was born of a Montenegrin father and mother, both of whom killed themselves; he married and remains married to his childhood sweetheart, Mirjana, who, as is so often the case, appears to be the power behind this particular throne. Milosevic, a former official in the Yugoslav gas monopoly and an exceptionally skillful Communist Party boss, has managed to outflank almost all foreigners with whom he has had to deal, giving him a reputation as one of the craftiest and most difficult nationalist figures in postwar Europe. There is a belief abroad, almost certainly erroneous, that his removal from office would solve the Balkan problems for all time; most nations' foreign policies include his removal high on their global wish lists.

Muezzin The public crier who calls the Islamic faithful to prayer from the minaret of a mosque. The public crier who calls the Islamic faithful to prayer from the minaret of a mosque.

Mullah An Islamic scholar and divine. An Islamic scholar and divine.

MUP The Serbian special police, dark of uniform and, it is said, of intent. The Serbian special police, dark of uniform and, it is said, of intent.

Nansen pa.s.sport Identification papers issued to stateless persons following the ma.s.sive European refugee movements of World War I; named for Fridtjof Nansen (18611930), the Arctic explorer who championed the cause of the displaced. Identification papers issued to stateless persons following the ma.s.sive European refugee movements of World War I; named for Fridtjof Nansen (18611930), the Arctic explorer who championed the cause of the displaced.

Novi Pazar A fingerlike extension of onetime Ottoman rule between Serbia, Bosnia, and Montenegro, which housed many sacred Orthodox relics and churches. The people from this so-called sanjak A fingerlike extension of onetime Ottoman rule between Serbia, Bosnia, and Montenegro, which housed many sacred Orthodox relics and churches. The people from this so-called sanjak (q.v.) (q.v.) are invariably Slavic Muslim converts, reputed for their trading abilities and commercial cunning. are invariably Slavic Muslim converts, reputed for their trading abilities and commercial cunning.

Ocalan, Abdullah Kurdish guerrilla leader and terrorist fighter; Serb militants like to point to his violent predilections as an indication that, in the region, Milosevic and his allies do not have a monopoly on making mayhem. Kurdish guerrilla leader and terrorist fighter; Serb militants like to point to his violent predilections as an indication that, in the region, Milosevic and his allies do not have a monopoly on making mayhem.

Oslobodenje Sarajevo daily newspaper, published continuously during the city's three-year siege, 199295. Sarajevo daily newspaper, published continuously during the city's three-year siege, 199295.

Osmanlee Alternative spelling for the name of the Ottoman Alternative spelling for the name of the Ottoman (q.v.) (q.v.) dynasty. dynasty.

Ottoman The dynasty founded by Osman (or Othman) I, in or around 1300, whose forces swept through western Turkey to capture Byzantium in 1453 and thereafter conquered a vast region from Central Europe to Africa and the Middle East, which was known as the Ottoman Empire. Following the unsuccessful siege of Vienna in 1683, a long period of decay ensued, the empire eventually becoming known as "the sick man of Europe." The final sultan was forced to abdicate in 1922, ending the Ottomans' immense influence on world history. The dynasty founded by Osman (or Othman) I, in or around 1300, whose forces swept through western Turkey to capture Byzantium in 1453 and thereafter conquered a vast region from Central Europe to Africa and the Middle East, which was known as the Ottoman Empire. Following the unsuccessful siege of Vienna in 1683, a long period of decay ensued, the empire eventually becoming known as "the sick man of Europe." The final sultan was forced to abdicate in 1922, ending the Ottomans' immense influence on world history.

Partisans Antifascist liberation guerrilla fighters in wartime Yugoslavia, led by Josip Broz t.i.to Antifascist liberation guerrilla fighters in wartime Yugoslavia, led by Josip Broz t.i.to (q.v.). See also (q.v.). See also their Serbian counterparts, the Chetniks. their Serbian counterparts, the Chetniks.

Pasha A Turkish military commander, his rank noted by the number of horsetails-three being the highest-displayed as a symbol in war. A Turkish military commander, his rank noted by the number of horsetails-three being the highest-displayed as a symbol in war.

Pavelic, Ante Croatian fascist leader during World War II, whose irregular Ustashi Croatian fascist leader during World War II, whose irregular Ustashi (q.v.) (q.v.) troops committed a series of particularly dreadful atrocities against Serbs, Jews, and others, largely at the behest of the occupying n.a.z.is. Pavelic died in Madrid in 1959. troops committed a series of particularly dreadful atrocities against Serbs, Jews, and others, largely at the behest of the occupying n.a.z.is. Pavelic died in Madrid in 1959.

Porte, The Sublime Used allusively to mean the Ottoman Empire-in fact the gateway into the grand vizier's offices, and to the Ottoman divan. Used allusively to mean the Ottoman Empire-in fact the gateway into the grand vizier's offices, and to the Ottoman divan.

Portmeirion Holiday village in North Wales, designed in Mediterranean-fantasy style by the eccentrically brilliant architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis. The village was made famous as the setting for the 1960s television series Holiday village in North Wales, designed in Mediterranean-fantasy style by the eccentrically brilliant architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis. The village was made famous as the setting for the 1960s television series The Prisoner, The Prisoner, starring Patrick McGoohan. starring Patrick McGoohan.

Princip, Gavrilo Serb nationalist a.s.sa.s.sin of the Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Hapsburg throne, in Sarajevo, on June 28, 1914-the event that essentially triggered World War I. His blow against the Austro-Hungarian Empire was regarded as heroic until the mid-1990s, when Sarajevo's understandably altered mood toward all Serbs resulted in the plaque and his footprints, memorials to the event, being removed. Serb nationalist a.s.sa.s.sin of the Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Hapsburg throne, in Sarajevo, on June 28, 1914-the event that essentially triggered World War I. His blow against the Austro-Hungarian Empire was regarded as heroic until the mid-1990s, when Sarajevo's understandably altered mood toward all Serbs resulted in the plaque and his footprints, memorials to the event, being removed.

Rasputin Siberian mystic, healer, and philanderer who was introduced to the imperial Russian court by Militsa, daughter of the Montenegrin king. Siberian mystic, healer, and philanderer who was introduced to the imperial Russian court by Militsa, daughter of the Montenegrin king.

Raznatovic, Zeljko Serbian paramilitary leader also known by his Serbian paramilitary leader also known by his nom de guerre nom de guerre Arkan: viciously nationalistic, leader of a group of irregulars, the Tigers, and perpetrator of appalling atrocities. Arkan: viciously nationalistic, leader of a group of irregulars, the Tigers, and perpetrator of appalling atrocities.

Ricin Poison derived from the castor bean, used in the murder of the Bulgarian dissident Georgi Markov. Poison derived from the castor bean, used in the murder of the Bulgarian dissident Georgi Markov.

Sanjak (in Turkish, (in Turkish, sancak sancak) An Ottoman military district.

SAS Special Air Services, a British army unit often detailed for small-scale, undercover, deniable military operations. Special Air Services, a British army unit often detailed for small-scale, undercover, deniable military operations.

Seselj, Vojislav Serbian ultranationalist paramilitary leader, a.s.sociate of Milosevic Serbian ultranationalist paramilitary leader, a.s.sociate of Milosevic (q.v.) (q.v.), though later imprisoned by him.

SFOR NATO's Stabilization Force based in Bosnia, successor to IFOR NATO's Stabilization Force based in Bosnia, successor to IFOR (q.v.). (q.v.).

Shqiperi Albania. Albania.

Sigurimi Albanian secret police. Albanian secret police.

Sigurnost Bulgarian secret police. Bulgarian secret police.

Skanderbeg Albania's best-beloved martial hero, 140568, given his name and t.i.tle- Albania's best-beloved martial hero, 140568, given his name and t.i.tle-Iskander-bey, Prince Alexander-by the Turks who raised him; he later embraced Christianity, returned to Albania, and successfully repelled thirteen attempted Turkish invasions. Prince Alexander-by the Turks who raised him; he later embraced Christianity, returned to Albania, and successfully repelled thirteen attempted Turkish invasions. See also See also Kastrioti, Gjerg. Kastrioti, Gjerg.

Slav An enormous eastern and southern European racial grouping that embraces, among others, Russians, Bulgarians, Serbs, Croats, Bosnians, Montenegrins, Slovenes, Poles, Czechs, and Slovaks. (But notably not Albanians, however.) The country known as Yugoslavia An enormous eastern and southern European racial grouping that embraces, among others, Russians, Bulgarians, Serbs, Croats, Bosnians, Montenegrins, Slovenes, Poles, Czechs, and Slovaks. (But notably not Albanians, however.) The country known as Yugoslavia (q.v.) (q.v.) was a loose union of the southern was a loose union of the southern (Jugo) (Jugo) Slavs. Slavs.

Sofa An elevated platform on which supplicants were permitted to sit during an audience with a high official of the Ottoman court. Sometimes the hall of audience itself. An elevated platform on which supplicants were permitted to sit during an audience with a high official of the Ottoman court. Sometimes the hall of audience itself.

Srpska, Republika The Serbian-dominated "ent.i.ty" within Bosnia, created in the wake of Dayton The Serbian-dominated "ent.i.ty" within Bosnia, created in the wake of Dayton (q.v.), (q.v.), and effectively ruled as a separate semiautonomous province, distinct from the Bosnian-Croat Federation that rules the remainder of the country. and effectively ruled as a separate semiautonomous province, distinct from the Bosnian-Croat Federation that rules the remainder of the country.

Stari Most The exquisite Turkish-built bridge (1566) over the Neretva river in Mostar (which derives its name from the Turkish word for bridge), destroyed by Croatian artillery in November 1993-ironically on the anniversary of the tearing down of the Berlin Wall. Its four centuries of existence stood as a symbol of the ethnic cohesion of Bosnia; its destruction showed that same cohesion's vulnerability and fragility. The exquisite Turkish-built bridge (1566) over the Neretva river in Mostar (which derives its name from the Turkish word for bridge), destroyed by Croatian artillery in November 1993-ironically on the anniversary of the tearing down of the Berlin Wall. Its four centuries of existence stood as a symbol of the ethnic cohesion of Bosnia; its destruction showed that same cohesion's vulnerability and fragility.

Stari Planina The Bulgarian name for the Balkan Mountains, which have given their name-the word The Bulgarian name for the Balkan Mountains, which have given their name-the word Balkan Balkan means simply "mountains"-to the entire region. means simply "mountains"-to the entire region.

Stepinac, Alojzije 18981960. The Roman Catholic archbishop of Zagreb reputed in some quarters to have given tacit ecclesiastical support to Ante Pavelic 18981960. The Roman Catholic archbishop of Zagreb reputed in some quarters to have given tacit ecclesiastical support to Ante Pavelic (q.v.) (q.v.) and his notorious Ustashi fighters during World War II; imprisoned for alleged war crimes. Catholic supporters claim he was a victim of Communist propaganda. Elevated to the status of Cardinal in 1952 by Pope Pius XII, and beatified by Pope John Paul in 1996. Jews and Serbs in particular, who suffered horribly at the hands of the Ustashi, find the Vatican's unyielding respect for Stepinac somewhat unseemly, and controversy about his wartime role-which, in the absence of several mysteriously missing records, is uncertain-continues. and his notorious Ustashi fighters during World War II; imprisoned for alleged war crimes. Catholic supporters claim he was a victim of Communist propaganda. Elevated to the status of Cardinal in 1952 by Pope Pius XII, and beatified by Pope John Paul in 1996. Jews and Serbs in particular, who suffered horribly at the hands of the Ustashi, find the Vatican's unyielding respect for Stepinac somewhat unseemly, and controversy about his wartime role-which, in the absence of several mysteriously missing records, is uncertain-continues.

Suleyman the Magnificent 14951566, ruled the Ottoman Empire as Sultan Suleyman I, from 1520 to 1566. It is generally recognized that during his reign, the Ottomans achieved the zenith of their administrative, military, and architectural genius. Istanbul's largest and grandest mosque, Suleymaniye, is a breathtaking reminder of his achievements. 14951566, ruled the Ottoman Empire as Sultan Suleyman I, from 1520 to 1566. It is generally recognized that during his reign, the Ottomans achieved the zenith of their administrative, military, and architectural genius. Istanbul's largest and grandest mosque, Suleymaniye, is a breathtaking reminder of his achievements.

Sultan The Turkish sovereign. The Turkish sovereign.

t.i.to, Josip Broz 18921980, the anti-Soviet Communist leader of Yugoslavia, whose skills in holding the fractious ethnic groups together in a single country are now regarded with nostalgia as a mark of rare political genius. t.i.to's father was a Croat, his mother a Slovene; and the young Josip Broz (the name 18921980, the anti-Soviet Communist leader of Yugoslavia, whose skills in holding the fractious ethnic groups together in a single country are now regarded with nostalgia as a mark of rare political genius. t.i.to's father was a Croat, his mother a Slovene; and the young Josip Broz (the name t.i.to t.i.to was added when he was forty-two) was apprenticed as a locksmith. His rise to power began when, as an antifascist communist leader, he led his Partisan was added when he was forty-two) was apprenticed as a locksmith. His rise to power began when, as an antifascist communist leader, he led his Partisan (q.v.) (q.v.) fighters to hara.s.s the occupying Germans. He ruled Yugoslavia as president from 1953 until his death, and remained a figure much respected by all sides in the later conflicts. fighters to hara.s.s the occupying Germans. He ruled Yugoslavia as president from 1953 until his death, and remained a figure much respected by all sides in the later conflicts.

Tost (or Tosk) Albanian tribal group, composed of peoples living generally south of the Shk.u.mbi River, most often landless and subsistence-level peasants. Albanian tribal group, composed of peoples living generally south of the Shk.u.mbi River, most often landless and subsistence-level peasants. See also See also Gheg. Gheg.

UCK Initials of the vernacular name of the Kosovo Liberation Army. Initials of the vernacular name of the Kosovo Liberation Army.

Ustashi Irregular Croat nationalist army, closely allied with the n.a.z.is in World War II, which committed appalling b.e.s.t.i.a.lities against Serbs, Jews and other minorities. Irregular Croat nationalist army, closely allied with the n.a.z.is in World War II, which committed appalling b.e.s.t.i.a.lities against Serbs, Jews and other minorities. See also See also Pavelic, Ante. Pavelic, Ante.

Vizier An Ottoman minister-administrator. An Ottoman minister-administrator.

VJ Vojska Jugoslavije-the rump Yugoslav army, generally now Serbian, with a number of pressed Montenegrin recruits. Vojska Jugoslavije-the rump Yugoslav army, generally now Serbian, with a number of pressed Montenegrin recruits.

Vlach The name for those Christian herdsmen who, along with the Serbs, originally populated much of the region between the Danube and the northern Adriatic. The name for those Christian herdsmen who, along with the Serbs, originally populated much of the region between the Danube and the northern Adriatic.

Wehrmacht The World War II name for the German army, and which after the defeat fell out of favor. It is now returning to more common usage, as for the German units recently attached to NATO in the Balkans. The World War II name for the German army, and which after the defeat fell out of favor. It is now returning to more common usage, as for the German units recently attached to NATO in the Balkans.

Yali An elegant waterside residence, often made of wood and with a formal tulip garden, on the sh.o.r.es of the Bosporus in Constantinople An elegant waterside residence, often made of wood and with a formal tulip garden, on the sh.o.r.es of the Bosporus in Constantinople (q.v.). (q.v.).

Yugoslavia A relatively short-lived and inherently unstable federation of southern Slavic peoples that was born after World War I as the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes, and which began to disintegrate after little more than seventy years, following the death of President t.i.to A relatively short-lived and inherently unstable federation of southern Slavic peoples that was born after World War I as the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes, and which began to disintegrate after little more than seventy years, following the death of President t.i.to (q.v.). (q.v.). The name is currently retained for the Federation of Serbia and Montenegro, but the name The name is currently retained for the Federation of Serbia and Montenegro, but the name Yugoslavia Yugoslavia-which means, literally, "the union of southern Slavs"-has very little semantic validity.

Zupan Leader of a Leader of a zupa, zupa, a confederation of Serbian villages. a confederation of Serbian villages.

Suggestions for Further Reading TO ANYONE WRITING about the Balkans swiftly comes the sobering and humbling realization that there are already an immense number of books on the region-the shelves at the library of the Royal Geographical Society in London, where I always go first when embarking on a foreign trip, positively groan with tomes, but tomes that are, by and large, almost as unreadable as they are apparently indigestible. From the beginning of the nineteenth century every historian, every writer of letters to about the Balkans swiftly comes the sobering and humbling realization that there are already an immense number of books on the region-the shelves at the library of the Royal Geographical Society in London, where I always go first when embarking on a foreign trip, positively groan with tomes, but tomes that are, by and large, almost as unreadable as they are apparently indigestible. From the beginning of the nineteenth century every historian, every writer of letters to The Times The Times-every motorist, even-seemed to wanted to play a part in a debate on the Eastern Question, to have his say at great length, and then for posterity place his say between covers of red morocco. And the tradition continues to this day: Few regions of the world can have exerted-and continue to exert-such a magnetic pull on the world's literary drabs, and works of terrible dullness and labyrinthine sobriety continue to thunder from the presses, destined to win a few respectful and uncomprehending reviews and then to molder and gather eternal dust. Most deserve to go unread; and if this book suffers the same fate, then I can't say that I wasn't warned.

But a.s.suming that some readers remain engaged, as I surely am, by the infuriating enticements of the Balkans, I would direct their attention to just three books that stand out, head and shoulders, from all the rest. The familiar but little-read 1943 cla.s.sic by Rebecca West, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon, though far too long and far too full of amusing invention to impress purists and pedants, remains wonderfully readable and hugely wise. Robert Kaplan has done a splendid job with his though far too long and far too full of amusing invention to impress purists and pedants, remains wonderfully readable and hugely wise. Robert Kaplan has done a splendid job with his Balkan Ghosts, Balkan Ghosts, written in 1993, even though he deals more rigorously with Greece and Bulgaria than with the Balkans in the strictest sense, and even though his writing has been so lucid as to influence heavily President Clinton's policy caprices in the region. And finally, and most important of all, there is Ivo Andric, who won the n.o.bel Prize for Literature in 1961 in part for having written, in 1945, written in 1993, even though he deals more rigorously with Greece and Bulgaria than with the Balkans in the strictest sense, and even though his writing has been so lucid as to influence heavily President Clinton's policy caprices in the region. And finally, and most important of all, there is Ivo Andric, who won the n.o.bel Prize for Literature in 1961 in part for having written, in 1945, The Bridge on the Drina, The Bridge on the Drina, a work that captures the beguiling insanity of the Balkans like no other, and that will make even the sternest of historians weep at the madness of it all. a work that captures the beguiling insanity of the Balkans like no other, and that will make even the sternest of historians weep at the madness of it all.

All three volumes are still in print (in paperback, from Penguin, Vintage, and the University of Chicago Press, respectively), and should be devoured by anyone who wishes to take a further interest in what is, it has to be remembered, an unending story-a saga that will go on, I suppose, until the waters of the deluge finally submerge every last spire and minaret and steeple between the Danube and the Peloponnese.

For Help Along the Way FIRST, AND WITHOUT THE SLIGHTEST DOUBT, I want to thank quite unreservedly my good friend and helpmeet Rose George, who kindly took time off from a holiday in India to accompany me through a long spring and summer in the Balkans, and to apply her crucial linguistic and critical faculties to the successful completion of the adventure. We make in the best of circ.u.mstances a most unlikely couple: separated by more than two decades and living three thousand miles apart, we are perpetually and fundamentally at odds with one another on almost every level-we disagree on everything from politics to diet (she, an ardent vegetarian, facing something of a problem among the Slavic carnivores), from music to motor cars-and we spend much of our time fighting like furies. But we are somehow addicted to one another's company, and we remain at heart the best of friends. She is for me the ideal traveling companion, and I find it difficult to contemplate any journey to the faraway-as recently to the Corryvreckan whirlpool in Scotland, or to Manila, or the back streets of Osaka-without hoping that she comes along. She was of invaluable a.s.sistance on this occasion, and I doubt if I could have written the book without her. I want to thank quite unreservedly my good friend and helpmeet Rose George, who kindly took time off from a holiday in India to accompany me through a long spring and summer in the Balkans, and to apply her crucial linguistic and critical faculties to the successful completion of the adventure. We make in the best of circ.u.mstances a most unlikely couple: separated by more than two decades and living three thousand miles apart, we are perpetually and fundamentally at odds with one another on almost every level-we disagree on everything from politics to diet (she, an ardent vegetarian, facing something of a problem among the Slavic carnivores), from music to motor cars-and we spend much of our time fighting like furies. But we are somehow addicted to one another's company, and we remain at heart the best of friends. She is for me the ideal traveling companion, and I find it difficult to contemplate any journey to the faraway-as recently to the Corryvreckan whirlpool in Scotland, or to Manila, or the back streets of Osaka-without hoping that she comes along. She was of invaluable a.s.sistance on this occasion, and I doubt if I could have written the book without her.

Before and during the journey we met a wide variety of helpful people (though occasionally, and especially in Kosovo, some who were very unhelpful indeed). Among those whom I wish to thank most particularly are Peter Anton, Patrick Bishop, Avis Bohlen, Daut Bozokurt, Robin Clifford, Guy Crofton, Zlatko Dizdarevic, Shaun Going, Peter Hunt, Danica Jankovic, Gunter Duriegl, Jorgen Grunnet, Pyotr Gwozdz, Sybilla Hamann, David Harrison, Mike Jackson, Peter January, Christian Jorgensen, Doris Knecht, Lejla Komarica, Lena Kovalenko, Dieter Lorraine, Jelka Lowne, Erwin Lucius, Sylvie Mattl, Simon Mann, Jean Meisel, Sarah Miller, Fritz Molden, Janet Rogan, Don Branco Sbutega, Mike Scanlon, Vesna Stamenkovic, Milena Stantcheva, Daliborka Uljarevic, Tom Wallace, and, as always, my friend Juliet Walker.

Larry Ashmead of HarperCollins was kind enough to suggest this book, after I had first visited Macedonia on a.s.signment for the genial and generous Con Coughlin, foreign editor of the Sunday Telegraph, Sunday Telegraph, and to whom I thus owe an immense debt. Juliet Annan of Viking Penguin in London was similarly enthusiastic about asking me to attempt the formidable task of making some sense out of the chaos of the Balkans. I did at first wonder if I was being handed the most poisoned of chalices; if there are errors of judgment, fact, or interpretation, they are very much my own and should in no way reflect on the eagerness of others that I attempt this book. and to whom I thus owe an immense debt. Juliet Annan of Viking Penguin in London was similarly enthusiastic about asking me to attempt the formidable task of making some sense out of the chaos of the Balkans. I did at first wonder if I was being handed the most poisoned of chalices; if there are errors of judgment, fact, or interpretation, they are very much my own and should in no way reflect on the eagerness of others that I attempt this book.

I wish to thank my agents, Peter Matson in New York and Bill Hamilton in London, as well as Agnes Krup and her tireless and adorable a.s.sistant at the time, Jenny Meyer. The tireless invigilations of Allison McCabe and Anya Waddington, my editors in New York and London, respectively, helped turned my unorganized scribblings into something approaching a coherent narrative-as did Sue Llewellyn's a.s.siduous copyediting-and for this I thank them wholeheartedly.

The editorial staff at Conde Nast Traveler Conde Nast Traveler in New York-Tom Wallace, Gully Wells, Lisa Hughes, Gerry Rizzo-were splendidly supportive, as they always manage to be when I absent myself for long periods of time. They were especially tolerant on this occasion, considering that I was writing about a part of the planet that currently, and for understandable reasons, attracts precious few tourists and hardly any people who wander the world for pleasure and enlightenment. My fondest hope, in the aftermath of this terrible little war, is that the Balkans may quieten themselves now, a quiet that will in time perhaps allow visitors to find their way into some of the loveliest countryside imaginable, and to encounter a people whose pride, history, and pa.s.sion render them, in more peaceful times, the most endearing, most fascinating, and most unforgettable Europeans of all. in New York-Tom Wallace, Gully Wells, Lisa Hughes, Gerry Rizzo-were splendidly supportive, as they always manage to be when I absent myself for long periods of time. They were especially tolerant on this occasion, considering that I was writing about a part of the planet that currently, and for understandable reasons, attracts precious few tourists and hardly any people who wander the world for pleasure and enlightenment. My fondest hope, in the aftermath of this terrible little war, is that the Balkans may quieten themselves now, a quiet that will in time perhaps allow visitors to find their way into some of the loveliest countryside imaginable, and to encounter a people whose pride, history, and pa.s.sion render them, in more peaceful times, the most endearing, most fascinating, and most unforgettable Europeans of all.