The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 11

11. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully move the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully move the juanes de arroz juanes de arroz with tongs to a folded kitchen towel to drain. Once the excess water has been drained, place them on a large serving plate. Cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), unwrap, and serve. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating so that they stay moist and warm. with tongs to a folded kitchen towel to drain. Once the excess water has been drained, place them on a large serving plate. Cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), unwrap, and serve. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating so that they stay moist and warm. Juanes Juanes can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months. Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen juanes juanes, allow them to thaw before steaming.JulyBANANA CUPCAKES.

Apam Pisang (Malaysia) (Malaysia) PLANTAIN DUMPLINGS IN CHICKEN BROTH.

Sopa de Bolitas de Platano Verde (Puerto Rico) (Puerto Rico) "NAPKIN" BREAD DUMPLING WITH CHERRIES Kirschen Serviettenknodel (Austria) (Austria) FRESH CORN AND COCONUT "TAMALES"

Pamonhas (Brazil) (Brazil) FRESH CORN AND BASIL "TAMALES"

Humitas (Chile) (Chile) CABINET PUDDING, A CAKE AND ALMOND COOKIE PUDDING.

(England) SWEET AND DARK PEPPERPOT STEW AND DUMPLINGS.

(Guyana) BOTTLENECKED PORK AND SHRIMP DUMPLINGS.

Shao Mai (China) (China) RICE DUMPLINGS STUFFED WITH PEANUT AND COCONUT.

Nuo Mi Ci (China) (China) LIGHTLY SOURED RICE CAKES.

Sada Idli (India) (India) Banana Cupcakes Apam Pisang (Malaysia) (Malaysia) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These steamed banana cakes are as good as, if not better than, any baked banana bread we've ever had. They are moist and soft and have just the right amount of sweetness. Malaysia has a luscious pool of bananas to choose from, but the common yellow banana will work perfectly, as long as it is overripe. If you like nuts, you can mix cup of crushed pecans or walnuts into the batter.

For the Dumplings1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon baking powder Pinch of salt3 medium (very ripe) bananas teaspoon baking soda2 large eggs2 ounces hard palm sugar or cup soft palm sugar or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)1 teaspoon grapeseed or other neutral oil cup freshly grated coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients), or frozen grated coconut, thawed (optional)Equipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot8 individual baking cups8 paper baking cups 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt through a fine sieve into a medium bowl. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt through a fine sieve into a medium bowl.

2. Place the bananas in a small bowl and mash with a fork until mostly smooth and gooey (or lumpy if you like a more textured cake). You will have just over 1 cup of mashed banana. Mix in the baking soda and set aside. Place the bananas in a small bowl and mash with a fork until mostly smooth and gooey (or lumpy if you like a more textured cake). You will have just over 1 cup of mashed banana. Mix in the baking soda and set aside.

3. Whisk the eggs in a large bowl until light and foamy. If using hard palm sugar, chop it into bits and crush it as finely as you can. Add the palm sugar and the oil and continue whisking until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Whisk the eggs in a large bowl until light and foamy. If using hard palm sugar, chop it into bits and crush it as finely as you can. Add the palm sugar and the oil and continue whisking until the sugar has mostly dissolved.

4. Add the mashed banana to the egg mixture and fold together. Add half of the flour mixture, fold together, then fold in the rest. Do not overmix. Add the mashed banana to the egg mixture and fold together. Add half of the flour mixture, fold together, then fold in the rest. Do not overmix.

5. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the individual baking cups with the paper baking cups, then arrange as many lined cups in the basket as you can. Spoon in enough batter to fill each cup to just below the rim. Sprinkle about a tablespoon of coconut on the surface of each filled cup, if desired. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam for 20 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the individual baking cups with the paper baking cups, then arrange as many lined cups in the basket as you can. Spoon in enough batter to fill each cup to just below the rim. Sprinkle about a tablespoon of coconut on the surface of each filled cup, if desired. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam for 20 minutes.

6. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the apam pisang apam pisang to cool slightly. Lift them out of the individual baking cups and arrange them on a plate. Cook any remaining batter. Serve warm or at room temperature. to cool slightly. Lift them out of the individual baking cups and arrange them on a plate. Cook any remaining batter. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Plantain Dumplings in Chicken Broth Sopa de Bolitas de Platano Verde (Puerto Rico) (Puerto Rico) SERVES 5 5 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 30 30 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

This Puerto Rican chicken-and-dumpling soup is a cla.s.sic that delivers sunshiny flavors quite distinct from the other traditional chicken and dumpling dishes in this book, such as the Sopa de Bolitas de Masa Sopa de Bolitas de Masa (April), Chicken Fricot with Dumplings (September), and Chicken and Dumpling Soup (September). The dumplings are made from unripe green plantains, and they are cooked in a chicken broth flavored with a (April), Chicken Fricot with Dumplings (September), and Chicken and Dumpling Soup (September). The dumplings are made from unripe green plantains, and they are cooked in a chicken broth flavored with a sofrito sofrito of onions, bell peppers, culantro, of onions, bell peppers, culantro,* cilantro, and oregano. A generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese completes this soup. cilantro, and oregano. A generous sprinkling of Parmesan cheese completes this soup.

For the Soup1 recipe (2 quarts) Chicken Broth with Puerto Rican Flavors2 cups chicken meat from making the broth (optional)3 tablespoons olive oil1 recipe Sofrito SofritoFor the Dumplings3 green (unripe) plantains, peeled (see Glossary of Ingredients) and grated into fine strands through the smaller holes of your box grater3 garlic cloves, chopped very fine teaspoon salt1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dustingFor Serving3 to 4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: Pour the chicken broth into a medium pot, add the chicken if desired, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Pour the chicken broth into a medium pot, add the chicken if desired, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

2. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over high heat. Carefully and quickly pour in the Heat the oil in a small saucepan over high heat. Carefully and quickly pour in the sofrito sofrito. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring frequently until the mixture thickens and darkens in color, 4 to 5 minutes. Scoop all the sofrito sofrito into the simmering chicken broth. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. into the simmering chicken broth. Cover and cook for 10 minutes.

3. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

4. Combine the plantain, garlic, and salt in a medium bowl. Work in some of the flour, a little at a time, until the mixture is firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. Combine the plantain, garlic, and salt in a medium bowl. Work in some of the flour, a little at a time, until the mixture is firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s.

5. Pinch off a small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about 1 inch around, dust with flour, and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat the rolling steps with the remaining dough. Pinch off a small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about 1 inch around, dust with flour, and place it on the prepared tray. Repeat the rolling steps with the remaining dough.

6. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering soup and stir gently. Cook until all of them are floating, 3 to 5 minutes, and then cook for 3 minutes longer. Sprinkle Parmesan over each bowl of soup and serve. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering soup and stir gently. Cook until all of them are floating, 3 to 5 minutes, and then cook for 3 minutes longer. Sprinkle Parmesan over each bowl of soup and serve.

"Napkin" Bread Dumpling with Cherries Kirschen Serviettenknodel (Austria) (Austria) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

This large bread dumpling, like the Serviettenkloss Serviettenkloss (November), is an inspired use of fresh or leftover bread. Mixing the bread cubes with eggs, spices, and fruit creates a new, flavorful loaf, textured with all sorts of nooks and crannies. Chopped plums are traditional, but we found that cherries, preferably fresh ones, will provide spectacular swirls of color while retaining their pulpy bursts of sweetness. (November), is an inspired use of fresh or leftover bread. Mixing the bread cubes with eggs, spices, and fruit creates a new, flavorful loaf, textured with all sorts of nooks and crannies. Chopped plums are traditional, but we found that cherries, preferably fresh ones, will provide spectacular swirls of color while retaining their pulpy bursts of sweetness.

This dumpling is wrapped using the Pudding Bag Fold.

For the Dumpling1 cup milk cup semolina flour4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks6 cups -inch crustless white bread cubes (see Glossary of Ingredients)1 large egg, plus 1 large egg yolk cup sugar teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon saltGrated zest of 1 lemon pound fresh sweet cherries, pitted and chopped coa.r.s.e (about 1 cup)For Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter to coat the muslin1 recipe Cherry Compote (recipe follows) or Cream SauceEquipment24-inch square of muslin or white cotton napkin8-inch length of kitchen string for tying the Kirschen Serviettenknodel Kirschen Serviettenknodel 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium heat just until the milk begins to bubble at the sides of the pan. Do not allow the milk to come to a full simmer. Immediately remove from the heat and pour into a large bowl. While the milk is hot, stir in the semolina flour and keep stirring until the mixture is a smooth thick batter. Cover and set aside. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium heat just until the milk begins to bubble at the sides of the pan. Do not allow the milk to come to a full simmer. Immediately remove from the heat and pour into a large bowl. While the milk is hot, stir in the semolina flour and keep stirring until the mixture is a smooth thick batter. Cover and set aside.

2. Melt half of the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add half of the bread cubes and stir occasionally until they are lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Scoop them into a bowl, carefully wipe the pan free of crumbs, brown the remaining bread cubes in the remaining b.u.t.ter, and scoop them into the bowl, and allow them to cool slightly. Melt half of the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add half of the bread cubes and stir occasionally until they are lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Scoop them into a bowl, carefully wipe the pan free of crumbs, brown the remaining bread cubes in the remaining b.u.t.ter, and scoop them into the bowl, and allow them to cool slightly.

3. Beat together the egg and the egg yolk. Stir the semolina batter once or twice and mix in the egg, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and lemon zest. Add the cherries and the toasted bread cubes and work everything together with your hands until the bread is thoroughly coated with the batter. Pack the bread mixture into a ball. Beat together the egg and the egg yolk. Stir the semolina batter once or twice and mix in the egg, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and lemon zest. Add the cherries and the toasted bread cubes and work everything together with your hands until the bread is thoroughly coated with the batter. Pack the bread mixture into a ball.

4. a.s.sEMBLE AND COOK THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND COOK THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the Kirschen Serviettenknodel, Kirschen Serviettenknodel, review the Pudding Bag Fold. review the Pudding Bag Fold.

5. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

6. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, and spread it out on a flat surface. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Center the cherry-bread ball on top of the muslin. Gather up the corners of the muslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag. As you collect the muslin and prepare it for tying, leave it slightly baggy so that the dumpling can swell as it cooks. Be certain, however, to grip the muslin low enough to leave no open gaps. Tightly tie the gathered muslin. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, and spread it out on a flat surface. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Center the cherry-bread ball on top of the muslin. Gather up the corners of the muslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag. As you collect the muslin and prepare it for tying, leave it slightly baggy so that the dumpling can swell as it cooks. Be certain, however, to grip the muslin low enough to leave no open gaps. Tightly tie the gathered muslin.

7. Carefully lower the wrapped dumpling into the simmering water, cover, and cook for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed. Carefully lower the wrapped dumpling into the simmering water, cover, and cook for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed.

8. Remove the Remove the Kirschen Serviettenknodel Kirschen Serviettenknodel with tongs and place it on a folded kitchen towel to cool slightly. Remove the strings, carefully unwrap it, and place it on a cutting board. If there is no naturally flat side, steady the dumpling with a fork and slice off just enough from any side to create a "foot," making it possible for it to sit steadily on a plate without rolling around. Serve warm topped with Cherry Compote or Cream Sauce. with tongs and place it on a folded kitchen towel to cool slightly. Remove the strings, carefully unwrap it, and place it on a cutting board. If there is no naturally flat side, steady the dumpling with a fork and slice off just enough from any side to create a "foot," making it possible for it to sit steadily on a plate without rolling around. Serve warm topped with Cherry Compote or Cream Sauce. Kirschen Serviettenknodel Kirschen Serviettenknodel is also good the next day, sliced and fried in a little b.u.t.ter or used as the bread for French toast. is also good the next day, sliced and fried in a little b.u.t.ter or used as the bread for French toast.

CHERRY COMPOTE.

MAKES ABOUT 1 1 CUPS CUPS.

1 cup dry white wine or unsweetened white grape juice2 tablespoons sugar1 cup fresh sweet cherries, pitted1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Combine the wine and the sugar in a small pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, until the liquid has reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, then stir in the cherries and the lemon juice. Cover and steep for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Scoop the cherries and all the liquid into a gla.s.s bowl or other container and set aside to cool. Once the compote has cooled, cover and keep refrigerated for 6 to 8 hours before serving.

Fresh Corn and Coconut "Tamales"

Pamonhas (Brazil) (Brazil) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These sweet dumplings feature the creamy essence and soft nibble of grated coconut and pulped corn. You can, of course, make them with frozen corn, store-bought grated coconut, and canned coconut milk, but if you want to taste the best pamonhas pamonhas possible, only fresh ingredients will do. These unusual dumplings can be so soft and custardlike that you may need to eat them with a spoon. possible, only fresh ingredients will do. These unusual dumplings can be so soft and custardlike that you may need to eat them with a spoon.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 2 (Long).

For the Dumplings6 large ears of corn with husks cup coa.r.s.e yellow cornmeal cup sugar1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon salt4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted1 cup fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or 2 2/3 cup canned coconut milk mixed with cup canned coconut milk mixed with 1 1/3 cup water cup water2 cups freshly grated coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients), or frozen grated coconut, thawedFor Serving4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted just before servingSugar for sprinklingFor a.s.semblySixteen 20-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the pamonhas pamonhasEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Remove the husks from the corn and separate them from the silk. Set aside the silk and a handful of the smaller husks for later use. Count out 32 of the largest husks, rinse them, pat them dry, and set aside. Remove the husks from the corn and separate them from the silk. Set aside the silk and a handful of the smaller husks for later use. Count out 32 of the largest husks, rinse them, pat them dry, and set aside.

2. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 5 cups of kernels. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 5 cups of kernels.

3. Process the kernels in a food processor until almost smooth, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Pour the pureed corn into a large bowl and mix in the cornmeal, sugar, salt, and melted b.u.t.ter. Mix in just enough coconut milk, a little at a time, to thin the batter out into a consistency that resembles the pureed corn before the dried ingredients were added. Mix in the grated coconut. Process the kernels in a food processor until almost smooth, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Pour the pureed corn into a large bowl and mix in the cornmeal, sugar, salt, and melted b.u.t.ter. Mix in just enough coconut milk, a little at a time, to thin the batter out into a consistency that resembles the pureed corn before the dried ingredients were added. Mix in the grated coconut.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the pamonhas, pamonhas, review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 2 (Long). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of batter by overlapping fresh corn husks. Dried husks are typically much larger than fresh husks so there's no need to overlap, but they will slightly alter the flavor of the dumplings. review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 2 (Long). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of batter by overlapping fresh corn husks. Dried husks are typically much larger than fresh husks so there's no need to overlap, but they will slightly alter the flavor of the dumplings.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, 32 husks, and ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, 32 husks, and ties.

6. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, overlapping their wider ends by about 2 inches. Center about cup of batter on top of the overlapping husks. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Tightly tie the open ends, but leave a little room at each end for the dumpling to expand into while it cooks. Using scissors, trim and neaten up the ends of the package and place it on the tray. Repeat until you have 16 packages. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, overlapping their wider ends by about 2 inches. Center about cup of batter on top of the overlapping husks. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Tightly tie the open ends, but leave a little room at each end for the dumpling to expand into while it cooks. Using scissors, trim and neaten up the ends of the package and place it on the tray. Repeat until you have 16 packages.

7. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and stir in the reserved corn silk. Bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning, or wedged loosely against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep them propped up if needed. Blanket them with the smaller, reserved husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and stir in the reserved corn silk. Bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning, or wedged loosely against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep them propped up if needed. Blanket them with the smaller, reserved husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the pamonhas pamonhas cool slightly, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), and serve topped with melted b.u.t.ter and a sprinkling of sugar. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. cool slightly, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), and serve topped with melted b.u.t.ter and a sprinkling of sugar. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. Pamonhas Pamonhas can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen pamonhas pamonhas, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Fresh Corn and Basil "Tamales"

Humitas (Chile) (Chile) SERVES 8 8 TO TO 16 ( 16 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The only obstacle to making a batch of savory and sweet humitas humitas can be finding the appropriate corn. These dumplings are made with a particular type of white, starchy corn not easily found. The solution is to use the freshest corn you can find and to mix in some white cornmeal to boost the starch content. Precooking the dough before it's wrapped in the husks helps to create fluffier dumplings. can be finding the appropriate corn. These dumplings are made with a particular type of white, starchy corn not easily found. The solution is to use the freshest corn you can find and to mix in some white cornmeal to boost the starch content. Precooking the dough before it's wrapped in the husks helps to create fluffier dumplings. Humitas, Humitas, flavored with generous amounts of basil, are often served with a flavored with generous amounts of basil, are often served with a pebre pebre sauce-an uncooked sauce of herbs, chiles, lime, garlic, and sometimes tomatoes-and a sprinkling of sugar. sauce-an uncooked sauce of herbs, chiles, lime, garlic, and sometimes tomatoes-and a sprinkling of sugar.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide).

For the Sauce1/3 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves1/3 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves1 small yellow onion, chopped fine1 garlic clove, chopped fine1 small hot red chile, preferably a red aji aji chile, chopped very fine chile, chopped very fine1 jalapeno chile, chopped very fine3 tablespoons olive oil2 teaspoons red wine vinegar2 tablespoons fresh lime juice teaspoon saltFor the Dumplings6 large ears of corn with husks cup finely ground white cornmeal1/3 cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves1 to 2 jalapeno chiles, cored, seeded, and chopped very fine1 teaspoon baking powder1 tablespoon sugar1 tablespoon salt3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks1 large yellow onion, chopped fineFor a.s.semblySixteen 20-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the humitas humitasEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE SAUCE MAKE THE SAUCE: Combine all the sauce ingredients in a medium bowl, cover, and set aside while you make the Combine all the sauce ingredients in a medium bowl, cover, and set aside while you make the humitas. humitas. (You can make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 week.) (You can make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 week.) 2. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Remove the husks from the corn and separate them from the silk. Set aside the silk and a handful of the smaller husks for later use. Count out 32 of the largest husks, rinse them, pat them dry, and set aside. Remove the husks from the corn and separate them from the silk. Set aside the silk and a handful of the smaller husks for later use. Count out 32 of the largest husks, rinse them, pat them dry, and set aside.

3. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 5 cups of kernels. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 5 cups of kernels.

4. Process the kernels in a food processor until almost smooth, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Pour the corn into a large bowl and mix in the cornmeal, basil, jalapeno, baking powder, sugar, and 1 tablespoon salt. Process the kernels in a food processor until almost smooth, about 3 minutes, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Pour the corn into a large bowl and mix in the cornmeal, basil, jalapeno, baking powder, sugar, and 1 tablespoon salt.

5. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. As the b.u.t.ter melts, add the large onion that's been finely chopped and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the pureed corn mixture and stir continuously until it begins to thicken, pulls away from the sides of the pan, and becomes more of a dough, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a medium bowl, and set aside to cool. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. As the b.u.t.ter melts, add the large onion that's been finely chopped and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the pureed corn mixture and stir continuously until it begins to thicken, pulls away from the sides of the pan, and becomes more of a dough, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a medium bowl, and set aside to cool.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the humitas, humitas, review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of dough by overlapping fresh corn husks. Dried husks are typically much larger than fresh husks so there's no need to overlap, but they will slightly alter the flavor of the dumplings. review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of dough by overlapping fresh corn husks. Dried husks are typically much larger than fresh husks so there's no need to overlap, but they will slightly alter the flavor of the dumplings.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the 32 husks, the ties, and the cooled dough. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the 32 husks, the ties, and the cooled dough.

8. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches. Center about cup of dough on top of the overlapping husks. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding and place it on the tray. Repeat until you have 16 packages. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches. Center about cup of dough on top of the overlapping husks. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding and place it on the tray. Repeat until you have 16 packages.

9. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and stir in the reserved corn silk. Bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep them propped up if needed. Blanket them with the smaller, reserved husks. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and stir in the reserved corn silk. Bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep them propped up if needed. Blanket them with the smaller, reserved husks. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the humitas humitas cool slightly, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing them), and serve with the sauce and a sprinkling of sugar. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm. cool slightly, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing them), and serve with the sauce and a sprinkling of sugar. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm. Humitas Humitas can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen humitas humitas, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Cabinet Pudding, a Cake and Almond Cookie Pudding (England) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

This eye-catching steamed pudding is made from layers of sponge cake and almond cookie crumbs. It can be made with cubes of cake, but thin, neatly layered slices create a more spectacular pudding, and that's how it's done here. You can leave the crust on the cake for a marbled appearance or cut it off for a cleaner, tidy look. This pudding can be made with different types of sponge cake or pound cake, such as chocolate and lemon, or any combination of leftovers. Ratafias, sometimes called almond macaroons, almond macaroons, are light, crisp almond cookies that are easy to make and delicious on their own. Store-bought amaretti cookies make a good subst.i.tute. are light, crisp almond cookies that are easy to make and delicious on their own. Store-bought amaretti cookies make a good subst.i.tute.

This dumpling is made using the Pudding Basin Setup.

For the Dumpling cup raisins2 tablespoons unsweetened dried sweet cherries, chopped coa.r.s.e1 cup milk4 large eggs, at room temperature cup sugar1 teaspoon Pudding Spice (recipe follows)Pinch of salt3 cups -inch slices sponge cake6 Ratafia Cookies (recipe follows), broken into small pieces (about 11/3 cups), or 1 cups), or 11/3 cups crushed amaretti cookies cups crushed amaretti cookiesFor Cooking and ServingUnsalted b.u.t.ter and sugar to coat the pudding basin1 recipe Vanilla Custard Sauce or Cherry CompoteEquipment24-inch square of muslin35-inch lengths of kitchen string4- to 5-cup pudding basinPot large enough to hold the basin when coveredParchment paper 1. SOAK THE FRUIT SOAK THE FRUIT: Place the raisins and the cherries in a small bowl, pour in warm water to cover by 1 inch, and set aside for 30 to 60 minutes. Place the raisins and the cherries in a small bowl, pour in warm water to cover by 1 inch, and set aside for 30 to 60 minutes.

2. MAKE THE CUSTARD MAKE THE CUSTARD: Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium heat just until bubbles begin to appear along the sides of pan. Do not allow the milk to come to a full simmer. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside. Heat the milk in a small saucepan over medium heat just until bubbles begin to appear along the sides of pan. Do not allow the milk to come to a full simmer. Immediately remove from the heat and set aside.

3. Whisk together the eggs, sugar, spice, and salt in a medium bowl until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Continue whisking the egg mixture while gradually drizzling in the warm milk. Cover the bowl to keep the custard warm while you a.s.semble the pudding. Whisk together the eggs, sugar, spice, and salt in a medium bowl until the sugar has mostly dissolved. Continue whisking the egg mixture while gradually drizzling in the warm milk. Cover the bowl to keep the custard warm while you a.s.semble the pudding.

4. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup.

5. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Have ready the cake slices, cherries, raisins, custard, and cookie pieces. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Have ready the cake slices, cherries, raisins, custard, and cookie pieces.

6. Divide the cake into 3 equal piles and the cookie pieces into 2 piles. Divide the cake into 3 equal piles and the cookie pieces into 2 piles.

7. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and set the pot aside. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and set the pot aside.

8. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Drain the raisins and the cherries, shake off any excess water, and scatter them around the bottom of the basin. Layer 1 pile of cake slices on top of the fruit. Spread 1 pile of cookie pieces on top of the cake, followed by another layer of cake, a second layer of cookie pieces, then a third and final layer of cake. Slowly drizzle the custard evenly over the top. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the custard-soaked layers. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Place the pudding basin in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Drain the raisins and the cherries, shake off any excess water, and scatter them around the bottom of the basin. Layer 1 pile of cake slices on top of the fruit. Spread 1 pile of cookie pieces on top of the cake, followed by another layer of cake, a second layer of cookie pieces, then a third and final layer of cake. Slowly drizzle the custard evenly over the top. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the custard-soaked layers. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Place the pudding basin in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

9. Bring the water in the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, like a standard white cotton napkin, into the water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Bring the water in the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, like a standard white cotton napkin, into the water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 1 hours or up to 2 hours for a pudding that's even richer in flavor and texture. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with Vanilla Custard Sauce or Cherry Compote. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 5 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve with Vanilla Custard Sauce or Cherry Compote. The pudding can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

PUDDING SPICE.

MAKES ABOUT CUP CUP.

2 tablespoons coriander seeds1 tablespoons allspice berries1 tablespoon whole clovesOne 3-inch cinnamon stick, broken into 2 or 3 pieces1 tablespoons ground ginger1 whole nutmeg, freshly gratedEquipmentClean spice or coffee grinder Place the coriander, allspice, cloves, and cinnamon in the spice grinder and grind into a fine powder. Mix in the ginger and nutmeg. Measure out what is needed for your recipe and keep the rest in a tightly sealed gla.s.s jar in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.

If subst.i.tuting ground spices, combine the following amounts. Measure out what is needed for the recipe and follow the storage instructions above.

2 tablespoons ground coriander1 tablespoons ground allspice1 tablespoon ground cloves1 tablespoon ground cinnamon2 tablespoons freshly grated nutmeg RATAFIA COOKIES.

MAKES ABOUT 12 12 COOKIES COOKIES.

2 large egg whites, at room temperature cup superfine sugar (or granulated sugar pulsed in a clean spice or coffee grinder for 1 to 2 minutes)1 teaspoon almond extract1 cup freshly ground blanched almonds 1. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

2. Whisk the egg whites in a medium bowl until very light and foamy. Add half of the sugar and the almond extract and continue whisking until the mixture forms soft peaks. Gently fold in the ground almonds and the rest of the sugar. Whisk the egg whites in a medium bowl until very light and foamy. Add half of the sugar and the almond extract and continue whisking until the mixture forms soft peaks. Gently fold in the ground almonds and the rest of the sugar.

3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Using a teaspoon, scoop up a well-rounded amount of cookie batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter off the spoon and onto the baking sheet. Continue until the sheet is full, allowing 2 inches between scoops so the cookies can spread out evenly while cooking. Use another baking sheet or work in batches if necessary. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Using a teaspoon, scoop up a well-rounded amount of cookie batter. Use another spoon or your finger to move the batter off the spoon and onto the baking sheet. Continue until the sheet is full, allowing 2 inches between scoops so the cookies can spread out evenly while cooking. Use another baking sheet or work in batches if necessary.

4. Bake until the cookies are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Place the tray on a rack and allow the cookies to cool completely before breaking them into small pieces for the cabinet pudding. Bake until the cookies are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Place the tray on a rack and allow the cookies to cool completely before breaking them into small pieces for the cabinet pudding.

Sweet and Dark Pepperpot Stew and Dumplings (Guyana) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

If you like the winning combination of sweet, sticky barbecue with slices of white bread, this dumpling dish is a chance to experience those flavors and textures in a new way. This extremely rich stew is made with soft, bready dumplings and shows off three different types of meat. Ca.s.sareep syrup is essential to the flavor of this particular type of pepperpot, because it's this ingredient that imparts the deeply caramelized barbecue flavor. Both sweet and bitter, it is made of a long-cooked reduction of ca.s.sava juice, sugar, and spices. Ca.s.sareep looks and behaves like mola.s.ses, but it has less of that mineral-rich medicinal flavor and more of a pure burnt sugar taste. It is found at many Caribbean markets.

For the Stew small bunch fresh thyme1 small cinnamon stick1 pound beef stew meat, cut into bite-sized pieces1 pound meaty oxtail pieces pound salt beef or corned beef2 small pig's feet or 1 pound pig's tail4 whole cloves, finely crushed, or teaspoon ground clovesOne 3-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces with backbone and skin removed cup ca.s.sareep2 tablespoons light muscovado or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients)1 Scotch bonnet or habanero chile*Grated zest of 1 lemonFor the Dumplings1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting cup finely ground white or yellow cornmeal1 teaspoons baking powder2 tablespoons sugar teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon saltEquipmentKitchen string for tying the thyme and cinnamon 1. MAKE THE STEW MAKE THE STEW: Tie the thyme and the cinnamon stick together and place them in a medium pot along with the beef stew meat, oxtail, salt beef, pig's feet, and cloves. Pour in 6 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Tie the thyme and the cinnamon stick together and place them in a medium pot along with the beef stew meat, oxtail, salt beef, pig's feet, and cloves. Pour in 6 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour.

2. Stir in the chicken, ca.s.sareep, muscovado sugar, and chile. Cover and simmer for 1 hour longer. (You can also make the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, add a little water to thin it out.) Stir in the chicken, ca.s.sareep, muscovado sugar, and chile. Cover and simmer for 1 hour longer. (You can also make the stew in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. If the stew is too thick to stir easily, add a little water to thin it out.) 3. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Halfway through the chicken's cooking time, place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, nutmeg, and salt and mix well. Pour in cup water and stir until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Do not overwork the dough. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let it rest for 20 minutes. Halfway through the chicken's cooking time, place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, nutmeg, and salt and mix well. Pour in cup water and stir until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Do not overwork the dough. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let it rest for 20 minutes.

4. Sprinkle a large plate with a little flour. Place the dough on a floured work surface and divide it into 12 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and place them on the prepared plate. Sprinkle a large plate with a little flour. Place the dough on a floured work surface and divide it into 12 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and place them on the prepared plate.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Once the stew has simmered for 2 hours, remove the salt beef and the pig's feet with a slotted spoon and place them in a bowl. Remove half of the stew meat and place it in another bowl. The stew's sauce should reach at least two-thirds of the way up the remaining pieces of meat. Stir in a little water if the level of the liquid is too low, then let the stew come back up to a simmer. Once the stew has simmered for 2 hours, remove the salt beef and the pig's feet with a slotted spoon and place them in a bowl. Remove half of the stew meat and place it in another bowl. The stew's sauce should reach at least two-thirds of the way up the remaining pieces of meat. Stir in a little water if the level of the liquid is too low, then let the stew come back up to a simmer.

6. Drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering stew and stir gently. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Drop the dumplings, one by one, into the simmering stew and stir gently. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes.

7. Meanwhile, once the meat is cool enough to handle, tear the salt beef into bite-sized pieces and pull off any bits of meat from the pig's feet. Discard the bones and keep the meat in the bowl. Once the dumplings have finished cooking, mix both the pulled meat and the stew meat back into the stew and warm through. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon zest, and serve. Meanwhile, once the meat is cool enough to handle, tear the salt beef into bite-sized pieces and pull off any bits of meat from the pig's feet. Discard the bones and keep the meat in the bowl. Once the dumplings have finished cooking, mix both the pulled meat and the stew meat back into the stew and warm through. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon zest, and serve.

Bottlenecked Pork and Shrimp Dumplings Shao Mai (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 48 48 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

A familiar sight at dim sum parlors and dumpling stalls, shao mai shao mai are enticing little dumplings shaped like small, crinkly sacklike purses left open just enough to reveal a hint of filling. The filling, made from raw ground pork and shrimp, is mixed so well it takes on a whipped, almost cottony texture. Because the dough needs to be rolled out so thin, these dumplings are a challenge and a real source of pride. are enticing little dumplings shaped like small, crinkly sacklike purses left open just enough to reveal a hint of filling. The filling, made from raw ground pork and shrimp, is mixed so well it takes on a whipped, almost cottony texture. Because the dough needs to be rolled out so thin, these dumplings are a challenge and a real source of pride.

These dumplings are made using the Bottleneck Fold.

For the Dough2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 teaspoon salt1 large eggFor the Filling4 dried shiitake or black mushrooms, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes pound lean boneless pork loin, chopped very fine, or coa.r.s.ely ground pork pound fresh shrimp, peeled, deveined, and chopped very fine5 to 6 fresh water chestnuts, peeled and chopped fine, or canned water chestnuts, drained and chopped fine2 tablespoons cornstarch1 teaspoon sugar1 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper1 tablespoon rice wine2 teaspoons soy sauce1 teaspoon toasted sesame oilFor CookingSoft lettuce leaves, such as Boston, to line the steamer basketEquipment3-inch round cookie cutter8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the 1 teaspoon salt and mix well. Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the 1 teaspoon salt and mix well.

2. Whisk the egg with cup water in a small bowl and stir it into the flour mixture until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If it is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Whisk the egg with cup water in a small bowl and stir it into the flour mixture until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If it is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.