The Cook's Oracle; and Housekeeper's Manual Part 53

Put an ounce of b.u.t.ter into a pint stew-pan: when it is melted, add to it half an ounce of onion minced very fine; turn it with a wooden spoon till it takes a light brown colour; then stir in a table-spoonful of flour, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup (with or without the like quant.i.ty of port wine), half a pint of broth or water, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, the same of salt; give them a boil; then add a tea-spoonful of mustard, and the juice of half a lemon, or one or two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar or basil (No. 397), or tarragon (No. 396), or burnet vinegar (No. 399).

_Obs._--The French call this "SAUCE ROBERT" (from the name of the cook who invented it), and are very fond of it with many things, which MARY SMITH, in the "_Complete Housekeeper_," 8vo. 1772, p. 105, translates ROE-BOAT-SAUCE. See _Obs._ to No. 529.

_Turtle Sauce._--(No. 343.)

Put into your stew-pan a pint of beef gravy thickened (No. 329); add to this some of the following--essence of turtle, (No. 343*), or a wine-gla.s.sful of Madeira, the juice and peel of half a lemon, a few leaves of basil,[252-*] an eschalot quartered, a few grains of Cayenne pepper, or curry powder, and a little essence of anchovy; let them simmer together for five minutes, and strain through a tamis: you may introduce a dozen turtle forcemeat b.a.l.l.s. See receipt, No. 380, &c.

_Obs._--This is the sauce for boiled or hashed calf's head, stewed veal, or any dish you dress turtle fashion.

The far-fetched and dear-bought turtle owes its high rank on the list of savoury _bonne bouches_ to the relishing and _piquante_ sauce that is made for it; without, it would be as insipid as any other fish is without sauce. See _Obs._ to No. 493.

_Essence of Turtle._--(No. 343*.)

Essence of anchovy (No. 433), one wine-gla.s.sful.

Eschalot wine (No. 402), one and a half ditto.

Basil wine (No. 397), four ditto.

Mushroom catchup (No. 439), two ditto.

Concrete lemon acid, one drachm, or some artificial lemon-juice (No. 407*).

Lemon-peel, very thinly pared, three-quarters of an ounce.

Curry powder (No. 455), a quarter of an ounce.

Steep for a week, to get the flavour of the lemon-peel, &c.

_Obs._--This is very convenient to extemporaneously _turtlefy_ soup, sauce, or potted meats, ragouts, savoury patties, pies, &c. &c.

_Wine Sauce for Venison or Hare._--(No. 344.)

A quarter of a pint of claret or port wine, the same quant.i.ty of plain, unflavoured mutton gravy (No. 347), and a table-spoonful of currant jelly: let it just boil up, and send it to table in a sauce-boat.

_Sharp Sauce for Venison._--(No. 345.)

Put into a silver, or very clean and well-tinned saucepan, half a pint of the best white wine vinegar, and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar pounded: set it over the fire, and let it simmer gently; skim it carefully; pour it through a tamis or fine sieve, and send it up in a basin.

_Obs._--Some people like this better than the sweet wine sauces.

_Sweet Sauce for Venison or Hare._--(No. 346.)

Put some currant-jelly into a stew-pan; when it is melted, pour it into a sauce-boat.

N.B. Many send it to table without melting. To make currant-jelly, see No. 479*.

This is a more salubrious relish than either spice or salt, when the palate protests against animal food unless its flavour be masked.

Currant-jelly is a good accompaniment to roasted or hashed meats.

_Mutton Gravy for Venison or Hare._--(No. 347.)

The best gravy for venison is that made with the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of the joint: if this is all used, and you have no undressed venison, cut a scrag of mutton in pieces; broil it a little brown; then put it into a clean stew-pan, with a quart of boiling water; cover it close, and let it simmer gently for an hour: now uncover the stew-pan, and let it reduce to three-quarters of a pint; pour it through a hair-sieve; take the fat off, and send it up in a boat. It is only to be seasoned with a little salt, that it may not overpower the natural flavour of the meat. You may colour it with a very little of No. 322.

N.B. Some prefer the unseasoned beef gravy, No. 186, which you may make in five minutes with No. 252.

THE QUEEN'S GRAVY OF MUTTON, as made by her Majesty's "_Escuyer de Cuisine_," Monsieur La Montagne. "Roast a juicy leg of mutton three-quarters; then gash it in several places, and press out the juice by a screw-press."--From SIR KENELM DIGBY'S _Cookery_, 18mo. London, 1669.

_Curry Sauce_,--(No. 348.)

Is made by stirring a sufficient quant.i.ty of curry stuff, (No. 455) into gravy or melted b.u.t.ter, or onion sauce (Nos. 297, 298), or onion gravy (No. 299, or No. 339).

The compositions of curry powder, and the palates of those who eat it, vary so much, that we cannot recommend any specific quant.i.ty. The cook must add it by degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take care not to put in too much.

_Obs._--The curry powder (No. 455) approximates more nearly to the best Indian curry stuff, and is an agreeable and well-blended mixture of this cla.s.s of aromatics.

N.B. To dress curries, see No. 497.

_Essence of Ham._--(No. 351.)

Essence of ham and of beef may be purchased at the eating-houses which cut up those joints; the former for half a crown or three shillings a quart: it is therefore a most economical relish for made-dishes, and to give _piquance_ to sauces, &c.

_Grill Sauce._--(No. 355.)

To half a pint of gravy (No. 329), add an ounce of fresh b.u.t.ter, and a table-spoonful of flour, previously well rubbed together, the same of mushroom or walnut catchup, two tea-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, one of made mustard, one of minced capers, half a one of black pepper, a quarter of a rind of a lemon grated very thin, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, and a little eschalot wine (No. 402), or a very small piece of minced eschalot, and a little Chili vinegar (No. 405), or a few grains of Cayenne; simmer together for a few minutes; pour a little of it over the grill, and send up the rest in a sauce-tureen. For anchovy toasts, No. 573, or No. 538. _Or_,

_Sauce a la Tartare._

Pound in a mortar three hard yelks of eggs; put them into a basin, and add half a table-spoonful of made mustard, and a little pepper and salt; pour to it by degrees, stirring it fast all the while, about two wine-gla.s.sfuls of salad oil; stir it together till it comes to a good thickness.

N.B. A little tarragon or chervil minced very fine, and a little vinegar, may be added; or some of the ingredients enumerated in No. 372.

_Obs._--This from the French artist who wrote the receipt for dressing a turtle.

_Mem._--These are _piquante_ relishes for anchovy toasts (No. 573, or No. 538); for BROILED DEVILS, &c. "_Veritable sauce d'enfer_," see No.

538; and a refreshing excitement for those idle palates, who are as incessantly mumbling out "piquante, piquante," as parrots do "pretty Poll, pretty Poll."

"For palates grown callous almost to disease, Who peppers the highest is surest to please."

GOLDSMITH.

_Sauce for Steaks, or Chops, Cutlets, &c._--(No. 356. See also No. 331.)