Textiles and Clothing - novelonlinefull.com
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Plainness, purity, softness of texture rather than elaborate ornament should be the main consideration for infants' clothes. The finest and softest of French and Scotch flannels, French linen, dimity, nainsook, and India silk are always dainty and they should be made up very simply with little tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, but that of the finest.
Hems and seams should be small and neatly done with, perhaps, the daintiest beading inset by hand and feather st.i.tched. Hemst.i.tching is always beautiful, but makes a weak spot which is apt to give out in the constant laundering necessary for children's clothes.
The skirt and shirt made in one piece, with sleeves to slip into the little outside garment, both to open down the back so that all may be slipped on at the same time without worry to either nurse or baby, will be found a great convenience.
[Sidenote: Stockinet Undergarments]
Stockinet or webbing, all wool, partly wool, or all cotton, is preferred by many to the plain cloth. The cotton is non-shrinkable, easily made, and finished. This garment fabric has reached such a high degree of perfection that for infants and children of larger growth nothing better can be desired for shirts, skirts, drawers, and tights. It may be had in either light or heavy weight, is easily laundered and elastic, having all the qualities desired in undergarments. Garments made of this material in the manner described give perfect freedom for all organs, besides evenness of covering for the body and lightness of weight--all important considerations in infants' and children's clothing.
There should be the same simplicity in construction and material in the garments of children of larger growth. The design should be smaller, more realistic and the color brighter than for grown people.
[Sidenote: Children's Dresses]
For children's dresses, the pretty ginghams in small checks, chambray, dimity, serge, flannels, cashmere are appropriate and serviceable.
In making up these simple materials nothing better can be suggested than the plain, straight waist, fitting easily, to which a full skirt is fastened. The sleeves may be of any fashion to add variety. Such a frock is simple and dignified and has a certain archaic beauty and quaintness that the huge, ugly collars and like ornament can never give.
With the plain body the grace of the childish form is not lost. The body may be short or long, with the tr.i.m.m.i.n.g at the bottom or edge of the skirt. The gathers fall in long lines or folds, no element of opposition destroying the rhythm and grace of the figure contour, when the tr.i.m.m.i.n.g is placed at the bottom of the frock instead of several bands dividing the skirt.
The waist should always be wider in front than in the back. The discomfort and injury caused by ill fitting garments, graded according to age instead of according to size, thus restricting the expansion of the chest and the play of the lungs, cannot be estimated.
With the proper kind of frock a child can indulge in any game without becoming in the least disordered. Dresses for little girls may have drawers made of the same material, thus permitting them the same freedom as the boys. The life of the child is play. Unfortunate is the child whose clothing is too good to play in. Of course there should be frocks for gala occasions. Children are sensitive to color and receive much innocent enjoyment from being prettily dressed. A child may be made unhappy and timid by ugly clothes, but plainness need not mean ugliness.
There are many artistic and simple patterns now being put on the market and many of the ready-made frocks found in the best shops are satisfactory.
CARE OF CLOTHING
Ruskin says, "Clothes carefully cared for and rightly worn, show a balance of mind and self respect."
[Sidenote: Little Attentions]
The freshness of gown or wrap may be preserved by the little attentions bestowed upon it each time it is worn, which take but a few minutes and mean so much in all departments of dress. By carefully brushing and shaking into folds, removing all spots, hanging right side out, picking and pulling straight flowers, bows, and ribbons as soon as removed, adding b.u.t.tons and taking up dropped st.i.tches when needed,--all these little attentions if given promptly will keep a wardrobe fresh and in good order. New braid on the bottom of skirts, sponging and pressing, little alterations and addition of new tr.i.m.m.i.n.g to collar and cuffs, will help to preserve the original freshness of the gown and cause the wearer to appear well dressed.
Waists should be turned wrong side out when removed and allowed to air near a window. Shields should be cleansed with alcohol and water.
Ribbons should be rolled up immediately when taken off and if treated in this way will last much longer and look much daintier.
Clothing if moist and dusty and tossed into a dark corner of a closet or trunk can never appear fresh again, and will betray the character of the wearer. It is not the wearing of clothes which tells so sadly upon them, but the manner in which they are cared for. A few garments nicely made, well fitted and properly cared for are far preferable to twice the number of inferior quality and make.
[Sidenote: Ruffled Skirts]
Skirts of thin material having ruffles around the bottom should be hung upside down by loops sewed under the ruffles at the seams. By hanging in the opposite direction from which they fall when worn, ruffles regain their freshness.
[Sidenote: Packing Away Clothing]
All clothing for the season should be put away in perfect order to be ready for any sudden emergency which may arise. No clothing of any kind should be stored for the season without thorough cleaning and repairing where necessary. Garments that are outgrown should be disposed of, instead of packing them away. Wool garments should be carefully brushed and hung in the sun to remove and destroy any eggs of moths which may be present. They may be hung in tight cotton bags or packed in tight boxes with all openings posted over as a protection against moths. Tailors'
boxes which come flat are not expensive and are useful for this. They should be plainly labeled with their contents.
[Sidenote: Folding Garments]
To fold, lay all articles on the bed or table and fold on the seams if possible. Particular attention should be given to sleeves and collars.
Coat lapels should be turned to lie flat, collars turned up, and the coat folded directly through the center seam.
Skirts and coats with bias seams are not improved by hanging as the bias parts are apt to stretch out of shape.
[Sidenote: Remove Pins]
No clothing should be put away for the night, even, without first removing all steel pins, as the least dampness may cause rust spots.
[Sidenote: Hangers]
Clothes forms and hangers are so inexpensive that every gown and coat should have its own. Skirts should be hung exactly on the form and no part of the band should be allowed to sag.
If fancy waists are put in drawers or boxes, they should have the sleeves filled with tissue paper and the collars and bows should be pulled straight.
CLEANING
Large garments require the greatest care in handling and in order to be done successfully, they should be sent to the professional cleaner.
[Sidenote: Fruit and Wine Stains]
All stains and spots should be removed as soon as possible. Fruit and wine stains may be removed by stretching the fabric over a vessel and pouring boiling water through the cloth from a height of a foot or two.
The water _must_ be boiling.
[Sidenote: Ink Stains]
Ink stains can be taken out of clothing by dipping the cloth in milk, squeezing the blackened milk into one dish and dipping immediately into clear milk until the stain has disappeared. Then finish by washing the cloth in warm water and in soapy water to remove the fat in the milk.
[Sidenote: Iron Rust]
Iron rust may be removed from linen and cotton by using lemon juice and salt. Wet the spot with the juice of a lemon, cover with salt and lay in the sun, repeating the operation until the stain is removed, then rinse out the lemon and salt thoroughly. This of course cannot be used on colored fabrics, as it fades the color.
[Sidenote: Grease Spots]
Grease is one of the worst foes to garments and the greatest care is needed to remove such spots from delicate fabrics. If not done at once, the dust and grease together often prove ruinous. When the color and fabric will not be injured by it, warm water and soap is the best agent, otherwise absorbents may be used. French chalk or magnesia powdered, placed upon the spot, and allowed to remain for a time will often absorb the grease effectually. If the first application is not effective, brush off, and apply again until the spot disappears. Where water can be used without injuring the cloth, the chalk or magnesia can be made into a paste and spread over the spot. When dry, brush off with a soft brush.
In removing fresh grease spots, blotting paper with a warm iron may often be used effectively. If the heat changes the color of the cloth, the iron should be held above the goods.
[Sidenote: Blood Stains]
Blood stains may be removed by making a paste of starch and applying it to the spot. Several applications may be necessary.
[Sidenote: Solvents]
[Sidenote: Cleaning Garments]