Textiles and Clothing Part 11

Shoddy--Waste thrown off in spinning--shredded rags, and bits of cloth manipulated into new cloth.

Sicilian--A mohair fabric.

Silesia--A light, close-woven, fine twilled cotton fabric used for dress linings, etc.

Stockinet--A plain, elastic texture made on a knitting frame, used for underwear, etc.

Surah--A twilled silk similar to serge; first made in Surat, India.

Tricot--A double-twill cloth having both a warp and filling effect.

Tweed--Much like homespun in appearance, both being either twilled or plain. They are made from rough worsted yarn spun at home. In tweed the yarn is harder twisted, giving a more distinct twill. It is generally more compact, less rough, and better finished than homespun.

Uniform cloth--Cloth suitable for uniforms, usually a stout, fulled, woolen cloth, similar to kersey.

Venetian--A cloth milled and cropped bare in finish.

Vicuna--A soft twilled cloth similar to cheviot, made of the Andes vicuna, hence its name.

Whipcord--A worsted cloth having a small, prominent twill.

Yacht cloth--A flannel heavier than ordinary serge or flannel.

Cord--The general term is applied to any fabric in which the lines run in the same direction as the selvage.

Count--In spinning, the number given to any thread or yarn, except silk, to indicate its relative fineness, based on the number of yards required to weigh one pound.

Felt--A cloth of wool, hair, fur, etc., not woven, but felted together; used for hats, slippers, boot tops, etc.

Flock--Finely divided woolen waste used in finishing cheap woolens.

Kemps--Fibers or hair like structure that sometimes come in wool, always in goat hair. They do not take the dye.

Mercerized--A term applied to cotton fabrics of which the yarn is chemically treated with a strong solution of caustic soda, giving the appearance of silk, more or less permanent; named after Mercer, discoverer of the process.

Mill ends--Trade term referring to short lengths, seconds, damaged pieces, etc., of cloth, embroideries, etc., that acc.u.mulate in mills and shops and are usually sold at a nominal price.

Narrow cloth--Trade term for fabrics less than 29 inches wide.

Wider cloths are called broad cloths.

Oil-boiled--Trade term for colors so treated to insure permanence.

Oiled silk--The plain silk boiled in oil. Silk boiled in oil and dried, becoming translucent and waterproof; used as a perspiration guard.

Pepper-and-salt--A black and white or grayish mixture, effected in weaving.

Rubber cloth--Usually cotton sheeting or drilling with a coating of rubber on one side; used as a protective cloth for various purposes.

Shepherd check--Tiny checks, usually black and white.

Twilled--Woven in such a manner as to produce lines or ribs diagonally or across the surface of the fabric.

Woolens--Name of fabrics or carded wool, usually soft woven.

Worsteds--Fabrics made of combed wool, usually hard woven. The combing is the process of arranging the fibers of wool, mohair, cotton, linen, into a parallel condition, preparatory to spinning into a smooth, even and regular yarn. The perfected application of the combing principle.

BIBLIOGRAPHY ON TEXTILES

Historical and Art

Arts and Crafts Essays $1.00 Morris, Crane, et al. Postage .10

Colonial Days in Old New England 1.25 Alice Morse Earle. Postage .12

The Primitive Family 1.25 Starcke. Postage .12

Man Before Metals 1.75 Joly. Postage .14

Origin of Inventions 1.50 Mason. Postage .16

Woman's Share in Primitive Culture 1.75 Mason. Postage .16

Textiles--The Lesser Arts 1.00 William Morris. Postage .10

Industrial Evolution of the United States 1.25 Carroll D. Wright. Postage .16

Technical Books

Through a special arrangement with the American School of Correspondence we are able to lend or sell to our students some of their textile books, which are technical though simple. Price 50 cents per part, postage 4c.

Textile Chemistry and Dyeing. 4 Parts.

Part I. Textile Fibers.

Part II. Bleaching.

Part III. Mordants and Natural Dyes.

Part VI. Artificial Dyestuffs.

Cotton Fiber.

Cotton Spinning. 5 parts.

Weaving. 3 Parts.

Textile Design. 5 Parts.

Woolen and Worsted Spinning. 4 parts.

Woolen and Worsted Finishing. 4 parts.