Skinny Italian Part 6

Old World Pizza Step 4 Baking Your Pizza Baking Your Pizza Slide your pizza onto the pizza stone in your oven (or, if you're not using a stone, place the baking sheet with the pizza on it directly into the oven). Bake it for 8 to 10 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered. Now take it out, and let it sit for 3 minutes on your counter to set. Now cut and enjoy the best pizza of your life!

OLD W WORLD P PIZZA D DOUGH.

MAKES 6 PIZZA DOUGH b.a.l.l.s, ENOUGH FOR SIX 10-INCH PIZZAS.

Now that you know what to do with them, I can give you my secret ingredients for the best pizza crust this side of the moon.

cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for rising1 teaspoons instant (bread machine) yeast4 cups bread flour, as needed1 teaspoons salt 1. To make the dough by hand, combine 1 cups cold water, the oil, and the yeast in a large bowl. Stir in 1 cup of the flour and the salt. Gradually stir in enough of the remaining flour to make a sticky dough that is too stiff to stir. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough is smooth and elastic (this means that when you stretch the dough a couple of inches in opposite directions, it snaps back into shape), about 5 minutes. The dough will remain slightly sticky, so don't overdo it with the flour. To make the dough by hand, combine 1 cups cold water, the oil, and the yeast in a large bowl. Stir in 1 cup of the flour and the salt. Gradually stir in enough of the remaining flour to make a sticky dough that is too stiff to stir. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface. Knead, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough is smooth and elastic (this means that when you stretch the dough a couple of inches in opposite directions, it snaps back into shape), about 5 minutes. The dough will remain slightly sticky, so don't overdo it with the flour.

To make the dough in a heavy-duty standing mixer, combine 1 cups cold water, the oil, and the yeast in the work bowl. Attach the bowl to the mixer and affix the paddle attachment. With the machine on low speed, add 1 cup of the flour and the salt. Gradually add enough of the flour to make a stiff, sticky dough that clears the sides of the bowl. Switch to the dough hook. Knead on medium-low speed, adding more flour if necessary, until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly.

2. Cut the dough into 6 equal pieces and form each into a ball. Pour a couple of tablespoons of the oil into a 13 9-inch baking dish. Place each ball into the dish, turn to completely coat with oil, and turn smooth side up in the dish, leaving s.p.a.ce between the b.a.l.l.s. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate the covered dough for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days. (The dough can be frozen, each ball in its own small plastic freezer bag, for up to 3 months. Defrost in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours before using.) If you are really in a hurry, let the covered dough stand at room temperature until the b.a.l.l.s double in size, about 1 hours, and skip the next step. Cut the dough into 6 equal pieces and form each into a ball. Pour a couple of tablespoons of the oil into a 13 9-inch baking dish. Place each ball into the dish, turn to completely coat with oil, and turn smooth side up in the dish, leaving s.p.a.ce between the b.a.l.l.s. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate the covered dough for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days. (The dough can be frozen, each ball in its own small plastic freezer bag, for up to 3 months. Defrost in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours before using.) If you are really in a hurry, let the covered dough stand at room temperature until the b.a.l.l.s double in size, about 1 hours, and skip the next step.

3. About 3 hours before baking, pour a few tablespoons of oil in a clean bowl. One at a time, coat each ball in fresh oil, and return to the baking dish, smooth side up. Cover again with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until doubled in size, about 2 hours. If the dough is really chilled from the refrigerator, it could take a little longer. About 3 hours before baking, pour a few tablespoons of oil in a clean bowl. One at a time, coat each ball in fresh oil, and return to the baking dish, smooth side up. Cover again with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature until doubled in size, about 2 hours. If the dough is really chilled from the refrigerator, it could take a little longer.

4. One at a time, drop each ball onto a lightly floured work surface, and press on the dough to deflate it. Shape into a ball again, return to the dish, cover, and let stand at room temperature to relax for 20 minutes. The dough is now ready to become pizza! One at a time, drop each ball onto a lightly floured work surface, and press on the dough to deflate it. Shape into a ball again, return to the dish, cover, and let stand at room temperature to relax for 20 minutes. The dough is now ready to become pizza!

Teresa'sT I PPizza dough does take a bit of time and tender loving care-and two hours to rise-so I usually make a big batch and freeze the extra dough so I have it on hand for a quick meal another day.

Our Family's Favorite PizzasI love just adding some marinara sauce, fresh mozzarella, and fresh parsley to my homemade pizzas, but here are a few other faves in our house.

PIZZA M MARGHERITA.

MAKES ONE.

10-INCH PIZZA.

This is a cla.s.sic Italian pizza named after Queen Margherita of Italy because it was her favorite. It's a simple, three-ingredient pizza that has all the colors of the Italian flag: red, white, and green.

Cornmeal, for the paddleBread flour, for shaping the dough1 ball Old World Pizza Dough (page 141)1 large plum tomato, seeded and cut into -inch dice2 ounces sliced fresh mozzarella, cut into 1-inch strips1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil3 large fresh basil leaves, chopped 1. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F.

2. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle.

3. Top the dough with the tomato and mozzarella, leaving a -inch border. Drizzle with the oil. Top the dough with the tomato and mozzarella, leaving a -inch border. Drizzle with the oil.

4. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Sprinkle with the basil. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Sprinkle with the basil. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot.

PIZZA G GIUDICE.

MAKES ONE.

10-INCH PIZZA.

This is how we do the queen's pizza in the Giudice kitchen.

Cornmeal, for the paddleBread flour, for shaping the dough1 ball Old World Pizza Dough (page 141)1 large ripe plum tomato, seeded and cut into -inch dice1 garlic clove, minced2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley 1. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F.

2. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle.

3. Mix the diced tomato, garlic, and oil together in a small bowl (yes, I do this with my hands). Scatter over the dough, then sprinkle with the Romano, leaving a -inch border. Mix the diced tomato, garlic, and oil together in a small bowl (yes, I do this with my hands). Scatter over the dough, then sprinkle with the Romano, leaving a -inch border.

4. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Sprinkle with the parsley. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Sprinkle with the parsley. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot.

PIZZA WITH A ANCHOVIES AND G GARLIC.

MAKES ONE.

10-INCH PIZZA.

I love-love-love anchovies, especially on a pizza!

Cornmeal, for the paddleBread flour, for shaping the dough1 ball Old World Pizza Dough (page 141)One 2-ounce tin flat anchovy fillets in olive oil, drained and minced2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil2 garlic cloves, minced 1. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F.

2. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle.

3. Mix the anchovies, oil, and garlic together in a small bowl. Spread over the dough, leaving a -inch border. Mix the anchovies, oil, and garlic together in a small bowl. Spread over the dough, leaving a -inch border.

4. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot.

PIZZA N NAPOLETANA.

MAKES ONE.

10-INCH PIZZA.

This is a well-known pizza in Naples, Italy, and it's one of my favorites.

Cornmeal, for the paddleBread flour, for shaping the dough1 ball Old World Pizza Dough (page 141)1/3 cup Milania's Marinara Sauce (page 119)3 drained anchovy fillets, coa.r.s.ely chopped1 tablespoon drained capers2 ounces sliced fresh mozzarella, cut into 1-inch strips1 teaspoon dried oregano2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil 1. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F.

2. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle.

3. Spread the marinara sauce over the dough, leaving a -inch border. The rest is like a school art project: dot the anchovies and capers all over the pizza, making a pretty design if you'd like. Sprinkle with the cheese, then the oregano. Drizzle with the oil. Spread the marinara sauce over the dough, leaving a -inch border. The rest is like a school art project: dot the anchovies and capers all over the pizza, making a pretty design if you'd like. Sprinkle with the cheese, then the oregano. Drizzle with the oil.

4. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot.

PIZZA AL P PROSCIUTTO.

MAKES ONE.

10-INCH PIZZA.

This is the Italian version of a Hawaiian pizza, only with beautiful prosciutto instead of just ham, and without warm, soggy pineapple.

Cornmeal, for the paddleBread flour, for shaping the dough1 ball Old World Pizza Dough (page 141)1/3 cup Milania's Marinara Sauce (page 119)2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, cut into 1-inch pieces2 ounces sliced fresh mozzarella, cut into 1-inch strips1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil 1. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F.

2. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle.

3. Spread the marinara sauce over the dough, leaving a -inch border. Top with the prosciutto, then the cheese. Drizzle with the oil. Spread the marinara sauce over the dough, leaving a -inch border. Top with the prosciutto, then the cheese. Drizzle with the oil.

4. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot.

PIZZA WITH I ITALIAN S SAUSAGE.

MAKES ONE.

10-INCH PIZZA.

Of course, sausage isn't the leanest meat, but if you're going to have it on a pizza (as a treat, not an everyday thing), at least do it up right, and make it healthier with the olive oil. You can also use turkey sausage, or do like Joe does, and mix the turkey sausage with the real stuff.

Cornmeal, for the paddleBread flour, for shaping the dough1 ball Old World Pizza Dough (page 141)2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil2 links (4 ounces) sweet or hot Italian sausage, casings removed1 medium onion, cut into 1/8-inch half-moons red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/8-inch half-moons 1. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, and preheat the oven to 475F.

2. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle. Sprinkle a wooden baker's paddle with cornmeal. Following the directions on page 138, shape the dough into a 10-inch round. Transfer to the paddle.

3. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, breaking up the meat with the side of a spoon, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage to a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until limp, about 3 minutes. Using the slotted spoon, transfer to the bowl. Let cool. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, breaking up the meat with the side of a spoon, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage to a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until limp, about 3 minutes. Using the slotted spoon, transfer to the bowl. Let cool.

4. Scatter the sausage and vegetables over the dough, leaving a -inch border. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot. Scatter the sausage and vegetables over the dough, leaving a -inch border. Slide the pizza onto the baking stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown and slightly blistered, 8 to 10 minutes. Use the paddle to remove the pizza from the oven. Let stand 3 minutes, then cut and serve hot.

9 - Scratching It Up in the Kitchen .

I already taught you how to make amazing homemade sauces and perfect pizza from scratch. Now that you're all the way to Chapter 9, I think it's time to graduate. You are no longer a little kitchen b.i.t.c.h. You are ready for the big time: canning your own tomatoes. Conquer this and you have my full permission to call yourself a hot Italian mamma!

At the end of every August, Italians around the world prepare for their annual tomato canning ritual. And when I say "prepare," I mean, like, make a hundred freakin' jars of the stuff! Enough to last your family a full year.

There's a million ways to do it, but this is my way, and, of course, it's the best. In my family, we call it a celebration, rather than a ch.o.r.e, because sweating over a hot stove for hours making a year's worth of sauce is no walk in the park; but if you pour yourself a nice gla.s.s of wine, invite your friends over, and put on some music, you can enjoy this delicious day!

Tomatoes. Period.Remember, both my parents and my in-laws, as well as Joe, actually, were all born in Italy. And in Italy, we have tons of legends and stories and special ways of doing things. One of those "special ways" actually has to do with tomato canning and having your period.In Italy, it's widely believed that if a woman is menstruating, she can't be around the fresh tomatoes or they will all spoil. I know so many people in the old country who have stories about this, and my dad swears it's true. I think it's funny, but since I was pregnant, there obviously wasn't a problem this year. My dad, however, had to take a poll. He actually asked our babysitter if it was her time of month! Madonna mia!I'm not saying I believe it, but your Italian grandmother was right about the peels of potatoes and the crust of bread being the most nutritious parts . . .

The Tomato Canning Celebration My ma always comes over, and me and the girls have our little tomato-sauce party. This year was our biggest production ever because my entire family was there, including my in-laws, to help out because I was two weeks away from having my baby Audriana. And it was the first day Bravo decided to film us for Season Two of The Real Housewives of New Jersey, so my kitchen was full of canning equipment and camera guys, extra lights, and total craziness.

Thank goodness for my girls! No matter what chaos is going on around us, they just make me smile. Gia tied a bandanna around her head and she looked just like a little Italian country girl. She was so serious with the tomatoes. My mother-in-law told her she'd be a very good wife someday, and asked what kind of guy she wanted to marry. She's so cute, she said, "I'm too young to worry about who I'm going to marry!" Then she changed her mind and said an Italian man like her daddy. (More people quote Gia to me from Season One than anyone else. The favorite seems to be from when I put lip gloss on Gia for her dance recital, and she told everyone: "My mom did it!") It was a really great day-it always is-full of family and laughter and tomato juice everywhere. You should definitely get your friends or family together and try it just once. Just promise me that you'll all tie bandannas around your heads and quote Gia no fewer than thirty times.

The Tools of the Trade If you don't have them on hand, you're going to need a few items, but they aren't expensive, you can use them year after year, and the money you'll save (and the hearts you'll win) making your own sauce will be well worth it!

Boiling Water Canner A boiling water canner is a huge, deep pot with a tight lid and a rack that sits on the bottom inside (to keep the jars from touching the bottom of the pot and touching each other). You can find them at grocery stores or regular retailers, and, of course, on the Internet. They cost anywhere from thirty to ninety dollars, depending on how fancy you want the extras: some have racks that lift in and out of the water, some have silicone handles that don't get hot, some have see-through gla.s.s lids. Get what you like.

If you don't want to buy a boiling water canner, you can just use a really deep saucepan (it has to be deep enough to cover your jars with one to two inches of water and still have room for all the boiling) and place a circular cake rack on the bottom.

A twenty-one-quart pot-the average size for canning-will hold seven quart jars.

The Jars Get good thick jars made to withstand the heat of boiling. You can't just reuse an old mayonnaise jar or something. They're called canning jars, but also Mason jars, Kerr jars, or Ball jars, after the manufacturers who made them.

They come in many different sizes, with regular-sized openings or wide mouth (I like the wide-mouthed ones; they're less messy). They cost anywhere from fifty cents to a dollar apiece, and you can reuse them over and over.

The Jar Lids Sometimes the jars come with lids; sometimes you have to buy them separately. A jar lid has two parts: the dome lid (the flat part with the rubbery seal on the inside) and the canning band (the screw-ring part). The dome lid sits directly on the top of the gla.s.s jar. The canning band just holds it in place while you boil the jar.

You can reuse the screw rings every year, but you have to buy new dome lids because of bacteria and stuff.

Canning Tools You're also going to need a jar lifter because the gla.s.s jars will be hot (unless you have a rack that lifts out nicely, and then you can use an oven mitt). Save yourself the mess and get a canning funnel.

You don't need a magnetic lid lifter, bubble remover, heads.p.a.ce gauge, or any of that other c.r.a.p. Save your money; use a thin plastic spatula.

Food/Vegetable Strainer This isn't like a colander that you put in your sink to drain the water out of pasta. A food strainer is a machine that clamps to your kitchen counter and separates the skin and seeds from the cooked tomato pulp. It sort of looks like a meat grinder, but it's for vegetables. I have a hand-crank type, and it works well. There are also electric ones and ones that come as attachments to your kitchen mixer.

If you're only making a couple jars (and why go through all that trouble, really?), you can get by without a strainer. You can blanch and peel the tomatoes yourself. But when you're making 160 jars, you're gonna want this little machine. It's only like forty dollars and is well, well worth it!

JUICY B BITS FROM FROM Joe JoeIf you can believe it, many people think tomatoes are an aphrodisiac. I can kind of see why-they're all red and moist and whatnot.The Aztecs called them tomatl, or "the swelling fruit." In France, they were called pommes d'amour, or "love apples." But no one believes in their s.e.xual power like the Italians. In fact, at one time the Catholic Church actually banned eating ripe tomatoes in public because it was considered a "lewd and lascivious act."Where I come from, if you call a girl a "tomato," it's a compliment; means she's good-lookin'. I don't know if tomatoes are exactly the secret to all of mine and Teresa's kids, but she is definitely one hot tomato in my book!

The Tomatoes Now that we've got the tools, we need the food!

Start with a trip to your local farmer's market. Even if you've never gone at the end of August before, the vendors there are ready for the Italian sauce makers. The tomatoes are piled up, rich and juicy, ripe and beautiful, ready to be taken home. You won't have to sift through, squeezing and sorting out the c.r.a.ppy ones, like you do at the supermarket.

You only want to use big plum tomatoes: the long-looking, oval-shaped ones. Plum tomatoes are also called processing or paste tomatoes because they are the best for making sauces. They are harder than round tomatoes, and have way fewer seeds. They also handle really well.

There are a couple different varieties of plum tomatoes: Roma VF, San Marzano, Ropreco Paste, and Big Mama, to name a few. Whatever your local market has will work great. Just tell them you're making tomato sauce, and they'll take care of you.

My family of six goes through about 160 jars in a year. You can get around sixteen jars per bushel of tomatoes, so I usually buy ten bushels. Do your own math and buy what you need.

While you're at the market, also pick up some fresh basil, and a bunch of flowers to make yourself feel good. You deserve it for what you're about to do!

Ten Easy Steps Now, for all of my b.i.t.c.hing about the hot kitchen and having to fill millions of jars, it's really easy, really worth it, and it will save you tons of money and time throughout the year. It might look complicated at first (I know boiling a jar for the first time can be scary), but there are just ten super-easy steps. Stick with me and you'll have hungry guys eating out of the palm of your hand in no time!

Step 1 Wash the Jars and Lids Wash the Jars and Lids Wash them in hot, soapy water. Easy, right?

Step 2 Sanitize the Jars Sanitize the Jars Fill your boiling water canner (the big pot) halfway with water, and then place your jars (no lids) on the rack inside. Add more water until the jars are covered, and boil over medium-high heat for 10 minutes. Take the jars out and let them dry, but don't place them anywhere they might get too cold. You'll use that water again in Step 8 to seal the jars.

Step 3 Wash the Tomatoes Wash the Tomatoes Wash all of your tomatoes real nice. Take off the stems and remove any bad spots.

Ten Easy Steps!