Riding and Driving for Women Part 7

Women who are inclined to fatness may prefer equestrian tights, made of silk or wool, to breeches.

Riding boots for women are made either stiff legged, like a man's, or soft legged, and with or without tops. My preference is for a boot made throughout of one material, and, for some occasions, stiff legs are almost a necessity, while for others the soft legs are more comfortable.

For winter use, and for wear with black, blue, green, or very dark gray habits, black boots look much better than tan.

For the show ring and for park riding, patent-leather stiff-legged boots are correct, and are better suited to very formal occasions than plain calf boots. Patent-leather boots should always be made with stiff legs, as otherwise the varnish will crack. Plain calf boots are more serviceable and more comfortable than patent-leather for country riding, and are correct for the hunting-field. Patent-leather boots are not correct in the hunting-field, and, like most other matters of correct form, this rule is founded on common sense, for patent-leather boots tire the feet and legs, and with them the feet are apt to become very cold in bad weather. They are also easily scratched and damaged in riding over rough country.

For hunting and for polo, stiff-legged boots are correct, as they are a great protection for the legs.

Tan boots are not correct in the show ring, except for out-door shows in the summer, nor are they correct at any time in the hunting-field. They look better with summer habits, and with any light colored habit, particularly with light grays, browns, and khaki. Black patent-leather boots, hot as they are, look very smart with white linen habits.

The loose-legged boots, which resemble a jockey's boot, are being worn now by both men and women for park and country riding, especially in summer. They are cooler than stiff-legged boots, but give scarcely any protection.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _a_ STIFF-LEGGED BOOTS

_b_ FIELD BOOTS]

A very good type of serviceable boot for rough country wear, is one which laces over the instep and ankle, and, in its general cut, resembles the field boot or shooting boot. As these can be loosened over the instep, they do not bind the foot or bring discomfort after a long day's wear, and they are much more comfortable for walking. They have the same objection, however, as the loose-legged boots; that is, they do not protect the leg in rough work.

Many women wear, in the country, tan laced boots or leather leggings, either of the straight kind or what are known as leather puttees. These are the same as a man's except that the legging of the right leg should buckle on the inside, for the same reason as I have mentioned in respect to the b.u.t.tons on the breeches. It is, however, much more important in the case of the leggings, as the buckles, if placed on the right side, would come directly in contact with the saddle and cause the rider great discomfort.

Whether boots or leggings are worn, they should be of a length sufficient to come well up over the breeches, but should be about two inches shorter than a man's boot or leggings would be, because the right knee in the side-saddle is bent at much more of an angle than it is when riding astride, and if the boot is too long it is very apt to pinch the flesh between the pommel and the top of the boot.

The boots should be fastened with catgut or cord loops in the back, engaging with b.u.t.tons sewed in the breeches, and one may also have straps or "garters" pa.s.sing through loops in the back of the boots and attached in front by cord loops to the second b.u.t.ton on the breeches.

These loops and straps prevent the boots from slipping down and the breeches from slipping up, and from twisting.

Boots, if not made by one's own boot maker, should be a size larger than those ordinarily worn, as boots tight in the foot, particularly of the stiff-legged kind, are, at the end of a long day, instruments of torture, and I have known of many cases where they have had to be cut off because of the feet having swollen. Whatever kind of boot is worn, it should fit very closely about the calf and should be smaller at the top so as to conform to the shape of the leg. Many women consider the fit of the boots as unimportant, not realizing to what an extent they may be seen, and how uncomfortable, too, loose boots are for walking.

Under the coat should be worn a plain or plaited shirt of any pattern or material which may suit the wearer's fancy, provided only that it is in keeping with the general mannish style of the whole costume. Silk shirts are very suitable and quite correct at all times. The cuffs should be fastened with sleeve-links.

For neckwear I prefer white Ascot stocks. These stocks should be made of very thin material which is hard to find. The ready-made ones are usually much too thick and clumsy and cannot be tied neatly. They should never be laundered stiff, and in the front a piece of celluloid is inserted on the inside, or the stock may be worn over a stiff standing collar of the same height. The stock should be fastened with an appropriate pin. The bar pins look particularly neat.

Instead of white Ascot stocks, stocks in colors, tying in a bow, are very smart, particularly for summer, and they are not so warm as the Ascots. They come in plain colors and polka dots and are much worn in England. Of course, they look best when worn over a high standing collar.

Instead of a stock, it is equally correct to wear a high turnover or standing white linen collar with an Ascot or a four-in-hand tie, or a bow tie which is quite smart for almost any occasion. One should never wear a "ready tied" stock or tie. They are essentially bad form.

If a belt is worn it should be of plain calf leather or pigskin with a plain buckle.

While for city riding, whatever the weather, a coat must be worn; in summer in the country many women ride without one for coolness' sake.

When riding without a coat, it looks much better to wear a belt, which should pa.s.s through loops sewed on the band of the skirt.

The hair should be done plainly and low on the head, either braided or securely coiled. For young girls only, a hair ribbon, which should be black, is permissible. Be sure that the hair is arranged securely, for nothing looks worse or is more uncomfortable when riding than untidy hair.

The correct hat for use in winter is a black derby, except on very formal occasions, such as the show ring or formal park riding, when a silk hat should be worn, if becoming. If not, however, a derby is equally correct, but these are the only two hats which are correct for formal riding. A silk hat is also worn in the hunting field, where it is strictly correct. Many women wear in the hunting field a specially constructed stiff derby intended as a protection to the head in the case of a fall, or of coming in contact with branches.

Many women find the "Continental" hat more becoming than the derby, and it is perfectly permissible for all but very formal occasions. It is never, however, correct in the show ring or in the hunting field.

For all occasions when a habit of a color other than black, dark blue, or dark green is permissible, a derby hat may be worn of a shade to match the habit. Thus, a light or dark brown derby, if becoming, looks very smart with a light or dark brown habit, and a gray hat with checks.

For summer wear the plain straw or black sailor or Panama is correct for all occasions, but the Panama, if worn, should be perfectly plain and, particularly, should have a plain ribbon. These styles of hats are much better suited for wear with linen or crash habits than derbys or Continentals. For wear in the summer the sombrero is comfortable, but I do not consider it very fit.

All riding hats should be large enough to set well down on the head, like a man's, and should be kept in place by a rather broad elastic. If this is sewn a trifle nearer the front of the hat than usual, it will hold the hat better than if sewn exactly in the middle.

Hat pins should never be used in riding. They look out of keeping, and in case of an accident are very dangerous. It is quite correct to wear a hat guard, but it should be of the kind that fastens to the back brim of the hat, with the hanger inside of the coat collar, and the hanger should be short enough to keep the hat, if blown off the head, from striking the horse. This precaution is very important, as I have often known of horses starting to run from being struck by the hat.

Riding gloves should either be tan, dog-skin, white buckskin, or white chamois. They should be heavy, hand sewn, have either one or two b.u.t.tons, and should be a size or two larger than those usually worn.

White gloves are correct for all occasions, and I think look smarter than tan. They should always be worn with white habits.

For the hunting field and the show ring, heavy white buckskin gloves are strictly correct, but they do not wash well and, as they have to be pipe-clayed to look white, the pipe-clay comes off on one's habit and proves very annoying. I have found white chamois gloves the best for use as they can be washed while on the hands in tepid water with a scrubbing brush and bath soap. When dry they should be put on, rubbed softly together, and they will then be practically as good as new. Buckskin gloves should be kept on trees to dry after washing or they will lose their shape and shrink.

Driving gloves which are reinforced over the fingers where the reins are held in driving, are not suitable for riding. They are too stiff and clumsy and one loses the "feel" of the horse's mouth.

It is always correct to carry either a whip, stock, or crop, and it is advisable to do so, both because the horse may need punishment and in order to give the right hand something to do.

Light cutting whips are best when riding a green horse or one that is apt to require punishment. Crops, of course, should always be carried in the hunting field, and for other occasions plain sticks are equally correct.

It is not safe for a woman, unless she is an experienced rider, to wear a sharp spur, and one should never be worn except with an open skirt, as it is almost certain to catch in a plain skirt. The spur, if worn, should be plain and of the same pattern as a man's.

No jewelry should be worn in riding except the pin in the tie and the cuff links.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PUTTEES]

The under dress for cross-saddle riding should be the same as for the side-saddle. For the outer dress the only style that I consider correct is loose riding breeches, polo legged boots, and a long coat. The divided skirt always looks to me out of place, and any woman who wants to wear a skirt had better ride in the side-saddle. For a long riding trip in the mountains or for roughing it or for any occasion when a woman is apt to have to walk as well as to ride, a short divided skirt, coming only to the knees, such as Western women wear, is appropriate, but I should not consider it appropriate for ordinary riding in the East.

Stiff boots are preferable to leggings because they do not show the shape of the leg and are more of a protection than soft legged boots.

The boots should be as long as a man's for cross-saddle riding and should show three b.u.t.tons on the breeches. They should be tight in the leg and fastened in the way I have described on page 121.

The breeches should be cut exactly like a man's except that they should be more baggy above the knees. They must fit very closely at the seat and about the waist and should fit very tightly below the knee. They should always be reinforced with buckskin on the inside of the knees.

Appropriate breeches are shown in the ill.u.s.tration on page 109.

The coat should be single-breasted, with three or five b.u.t.tons, according to the wearer's figure and personal fancy, and rather loose fitting, quite long, with very full skirts coming below the knee when mounted. The skirts of the coat are kept in place by a tab which engages with the third b.u.t.ton from the top on the breeches, just above the boots. The coat should be opened enough in the back to clear the cantle, so that the skirts will fall on either side of the horse. With the skirts so fastened at the knees, the thighs and upper legs are concealed and nothing is visible but a smart boot.

I consider this far the smartest, the most comfortable, the most modest, and the safest costume for cross-saddle riding.

In the following list will be found the average price for all riding clothes, etc., each good of its kind:

Cloth riding habit $75.00 to $100.00 Linen and flannel habit 45.00 to 60.00 Waistcoat 10.00 to 15.00 Covert coat 45.00 to 55.00 Rain coat 40.00 to 45.00 Tights 1.00 to 20.00 Socks, doz. pairs 1.50 to 6.00 Equestrian tights 1.50 to 2.50 Riding breeches 10.00 to 18.00 Boots (ready-made) 12.00 to 15.00 Boots (made to order) 20.00 to 35.00 Boots, laced and strapped 25.00 Leggings 10.00 to 15.00 Riding stocks, doz. 3.00 to 6.00 Shirt waists, doz. 12.00 to 30.00 Linen collars, doz. .75 to 3.00 Neckties (each) .50 to 2.00 Belt .50 to 2.00 Silk hat 8.00 to 10.00 Derby hat 4.00 to 5.00 Sailor hat 3.00 to 5.00 Panama hat 10.00 to 30.00 Sombrero 5.00 to 15.00 Hat guards .50 to 1.00 Gloves 1.00 to 2.50 Riding crops 2.00 to 10.00 Whips 3.00 to 5.00 Sticks 1.00 to 5.00

CHAPTER IX

SADDLES AND BRIDLES

Much discrimination is required in the selection of a side-saddle. In order to be comfortable it must fit both the rider and the horse, a condition harder to find than one would imagine.