Picturesque Quebec : a sequel to Quebec past and present Part 7

We may add that Fort St. Louis, shown on the plan of Quebec of 1660, published by Abbe Faillon, and more plainly exhibited on Jeffery's map of Quebec, published in London in 1760, disappears after the conquest. No mention is made of it in 1775, and still less in 1784, as a fortress.

Champlain, in his deposition, [35] sworn to, on the 9th Nov. 1629, in London, before the Right Worshipful Sir Henry Martin, Knight, Judge of the High Court of Admiralty, describes minutely, the armament and belongings of Fort St. Louis, on the 9th August 1629, when he surrendered it to the Kirkes: cannon such as they were, and ammunition he seems to have had in abundance, without forgetting what he styles "the murderers with their double boxes or charges," a not excessively deadly kind of _mitrailleuse_ or Gatling gun, we should imagine; the Fort also contained a smith's forge, carpenter's tools, machinery for a windmill, and a handmill to grind corn, a bra.s.s bell--probably to sound the tocsin, or alarm, at the approach of the marauding savages of Stadacona, the array of muskets--(thirteen complete)--is not formidable. Who was the maker of his pistol-proof coats-of-mail?

_NEW CHaTEAU ST. LOUIS._

"Such dusky grandeur clothed the height Where the huge castle holds its state, And all the steep slope down Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky, Piled deep and ma.s.sy, close and high Mine own romantic town."

(Scott's _Marmion_.)

"Few circ.u.mstances of discussion and enquiry, says Hawkins, are more interesting than the history and fate of ancient buildings, especially if we direct our attention to the fortunes and vicissitudes of those who were connected with them. The temper, genius and pursuits of an historical era are frequently delineated in the features of remarkable edifices, nor can any one contemplate them without expressing curiosity, concerning those who first formed the plan, and afterwards created and tenanted the structure. These observations apply particularly to the subject of this chapter.

The history of the ancient Castle of St. Louis, or Fort of Quebec, for above two centuries the seat of Government in the Province (of Quebec), affords subjects of great and stirring interest during its several periods. The hall of the old Fort during the weakness of the colony was often a scene of terror and despair at the inroads of the persevering and ferocious Iroquois, who, having pa.s.sed or overthrown all the French outposts, more than once threatened the fort itself and ma.s.sacred some friendly Indians within sight of its walls. Here, too, in intervals of peace, were laid those benevolent plans for the religious instruction and conversion of the savages which at one time distinguished the policy of the ancient governors. At a later era, when, under the protection of the French kings, the province had acquired the rudiments of military strength and power, the Castle of St. Louis was remarkable as having been the site whence the French governors exercised an immense sovereignty, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the sh.o.r.es of that n.o.ble river, its magnificent lakes, and down the course of the Mississippi to its outlet below New Orleans. The banner which first streamed from the battlements of Quebec was displayed from a chain of forts which protected the settlements throughout this vast extent of country, keeping the English colonies in constant alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations. During this period the council-chamber of the castle was the scene of many a midnight vigil [36]--many a long deliberation and deep-laid project to free the continent from the intrusion of the ancient rival of France and a.s.sert the supremacy of the Gallic lily.

At another era, subsequent to the surrender of Quebec to the British armies, and until the recognition of the independence of the United States, the extent of empire of the government of which the Castle of Quebec was the princ.i.p.al seat, comprehended the whole American continent north of Mexico. It is astonishing to reflect for a moment, to how small, and, as to size, comparatively insignificant an island in the Atlantic ocean this gigantic territory was once subject. Here also was rendered to the representative of the French king, with all its ancient forms, the fealty and homage of the n.o.blesse and military retainers, who held possessions in the province under the crown. A feudal ceremony, suited to early times, which imposed a real and substantial obligation on those who performed it, not to be violated without forfeiture and dishonour. The king of Great Britain having succeeded to the rights of the French crown, this ceremony is still retained.

"Fealty and homage is rendered at this day (1834) by the seigniors to the Governor, as the representative of the sovereign, in the following form: His Excellency being in full dress and seated in a state chair, surrounded by his staff, and attended by the Attorney-General, the seignior, in an evening dress and wearing a sword, is introduced into his presence by the Inspector General of the Royal Domain and Clerk of the Land Roll, and having delivered up his sword, and kneeling upon one knee before the Governor, places his right hand between his and repeats the ancient oath of fidelity; after which a solemn act is drawn up in a register kept for that purpose, which is signed by the Governor and the seignior, and countersigned by the proper officers."

--(Hawkin's _Picture of Quebec_.)

The historian, Ferland, _Notes sur les Registres de Notre Dame de Quebec_, relates one of the earliest instances (1634) of the manner the _foi et hommage_ was rendered. It is that of Jean Guion (Dion?) va.s.sal of Robert Giffard, seignior of Beauport: "Guion presents himself in the presence of a notary, at the princ.i.p.al door of the manor-house of Beauport; having knocked, one Boulle, farmer of Giffard, opened the door and in reply to Guion's question, if the seignior was at home, replied that he was not, but that he, Boulle, was empowered to receive acknowledgments and homage for the va.s.sals in his name. After the which reply, the said Guion, being at the princ.i.p.al door, placed himself on his knees, on the ground, with bare head and without sword or spurs, and said three times these words: 'Monsieur de Beauport, Monsieur de Beauport, Monsieur de Beauport, I bring you the faith and homage which I am bound to bring you on account of my _fief_ Du Buisson, which I hold as a man of faith of your seigniory of Beauport, declaring that I offer to pay my seigniorial and feudal dues in their season, and demanding of you to accept me in faith and homage as aforesaid.'" (Parkman's _Old Regime_, p 246.)

"Of these buildings (says Bouchette), the Castle of St. Louis being the most prominent object on the summit of the rock--will obtain the first notice.

"It is a handsome stone building seated near the edge of a precipice, * * and supported towards the steep by a solid work of masonry, rising nearly half the height of the edifice, and surmounted by a s.p.a.cious gallery, * * * The whole pile is 162 feet long by 45 feet broad, and three stories high * * * Each extremity is terminated by a small wing, giving to the whole an easy and regular character.

"It was built shortly after the city was fortified with solid works, * * *--for a long series of years it was neglected, so much as to be suffered to go to decay, and ceasing to be the residence of the Commander-in-Chief, was used only for the offices of Government until the year 1808, when a resolution pa.s.sed the Provincial Parliament for repairing and beautifying it; the sum of 1,000 was at the same time voted, and the work forthwith commenced.

"The money applied was inadequate to defray the expenses--upon the grand scale the improvements were commenced, but an additional grant was made to cover the whole charge, * * *

"Sir James Craig took possession of it, etc.

"The part properly called the Chateau occupies one side of the square or court-yard; on the opposite side stands an extensive building (Haldimand Castle) divided among the offices of Government, both civil and military, that are under the immediate control of the Governor, it contains also a handsome suite of apartments where the b.a.l.l.s and other public entertainments of the court are always given. During the dilapidated state of the Chateau, this building was occupied by the family of the Governors. Both the exterior and the interior are in a very plain style, it forms part of the curtain that ran between the two exterior bastions of the old fortress of St. Louis, adjoining it are several other buildings of smaller size, appropriated to similar uses, a guard house, stables, and extensive riding house, of these works only a few vestiges remain, except the eastern wall, which is kept in solid repair. The new guard house and stables, both fronting the parade, have a very neat exterior, the first forms the arc of a circle and has a colonnade before it, the stables are attached to the riding house, which is s.p.a.cious, and in every way well adapted to its intended purpose, it is also used for drilling the city militia"-- (Bouchette's _Topography of Lower Canada_, 1815, p. 431-4.)

The brilliant biographer of "Frontenac" and author of the, "Old Regime,"

thus sums up from the official correspondence of the French Governors and Intendants the foundation, reconstructions and alterations in the Fort and Chateau.

"This structure," says Francis Parkman, "destined to be famous in Canadian history, was originally built by Samuel de Champlain. The cellar still remains under the wooden platform of the present Durham (now Dufferin) Terrace. Behind the chateau was the area of the fort, now an open square. In the most famous epoch of its history, the time of Frontenac, the chateau was old and dilapidated, and the fort was in sad condition." "The walls are all down," writes Frontenac in 1681, "there are neither gates nor guard-houses, the whole place is open."

On this the new Intendant Meules was ordered to report what repairs were needed. Meanwhile la Barre had come to replace Frontenac, whose complaints he repeats. He says that the wall is in ruins for a distance of a hundred and eighty _toises_. "The workmen ask 6,000 francs to repair it. I could get it done in France for 2,000. The cost frightens me. I have done nothing."--(_La Barre au Ministre_, 1682).

Meules, however, received orders to do what was necessary, and, two years later, he reports that he had rebuilt the wall, repaired the fort, and erected a building, intended at first for the council, within the area. This building stood near the entrance of the present St. Louis street, and was enclosed by an extension of the fort wall.

Denonville next appears on the scene, with his usual disposition to fault-finding. "The so-called chateau," he says (1685), "is built of wood, and is dry as a match. There is a place where with a bundle of straw it could be set on fire at any time,... some of the gates will not close, there is no watchtower, and no place to shoot from."-- (_Denonville au Ministre_, 20 _Aout_, 1685).

When Frontenac resumed the Government, he was much disturbed at the condition of the chateau, and begged for slate to cover the roof, as the rain was coming in everywhere. At the same time the Intendant Champigny reports it to be rotten and ruinous. This was in the year made famous by the English attack, and the dramatic scene in the hall of the old building when Frontenac defied the envoy of Admiral Phipps, whose fleet lay in the river below. In the next summer, 1691, Frontenac again asks for slate to cover the roof, and for 15,000 or 20,000 francs to repair his mansion.

In the next year the king promised to send him 12,000 francs, in instalments. Frontenac acknowledges the favour, and says that he will erect a new building, and try in the meantime not to be buried under the old one, as he expects to be every time the wind blows hard.-- (_Frontenac au Ministre_, 15 _Septembre_, 1692). A misunderstanding with the Intendant, who had control of the money, interrupted the work. Frontenac writes the next year that he had been "obliged to send for carpenters during the night, to prop up the chateau, lest he should be crushed under the ruins." The wall of the fort was, however, strengthened, and partly rebuilt to the height of sixteen feet, at a cost of 13,629 francs. It was a time of war, and a fresh attack was expected from the English.--(_Frontenac et Champigny au Ministre_, 4 _Nov_, 1693). In the year 1854, the workmen employed in demolishing a part of this wall, adjoining the garden of the chateau, found a copper plate bearing an inscription in Latin as follows--

D. O. M.

Anno reparatae salutis Millesimo s.e.xcentesimo nonagesimo tertio Regnante Augustissimo Invictissimo ac Christianissimo Galliae Rege Rege Ludovico Magno XIIII Excellentissimus ac Ill.u.s.trissimus Dnus Dnux Ludovicus de Buade Comes de Frontenac, totius Novae Franciae Semel et iterum Provex, Ab ipsomet, triennio ante rebellibus Novae Angliae incolis, hanc civitatem Quebecensem, Obsidentibus, pulsis, fusis ac penitus Devictis, Et iterum hocce supradicto anno obsidionem Minitantibus Hanc arcem c.u.m adjectis munimentis In totius patriae tutelam populi salutem Nec non in perfidae, tum Deo, tum suo Regi Legitimo, gentis iterandum confusionem Sumptibus regies oedificari Curavit, Ac primarium hunc lapidem Posuit,

JOANNES SOULLARD, Sculpsit

(_Translation_)

"In the year of Redemption, 1693, under the reign of the Most August, Most Invincible, and Most Christian King of France, Louis the Great, fourteenth of that name, the Most Excellent Louis de Buade, Count of Frontenac, Governor for the second time of all New France, seeing that the rebellious inhabitants of New England, who three years ago were repulsed, routed, and completely vanquished by him, when they besieged this town of Quebec, are threatening to renew the siege this very year, has caused to be built, at the expense of the King, this Citadel, with the fortifications adjoining thereto, for the defence of the country, for the security of the people, and for confounding again that nation perfidious alike towards its G.o.d and its lawful King, and he (_Frontenac_) has placed here this first stone."

A year later, the rebuilding of the chateau was begun in earnest.

Frontenac says that nothing but a miracle has saved him from being buried under its ruins, that he has pulled everything down, and begun again from the foundation, but that the money has given out.-- (_Frontenac au Ministre_, 4 _Nov._, 1694) Accordingly, he and the Intendant sold six licenses for the fur trade, but at a rate unusually low, for they brought only 4,400 francs.

The King hearing of this sent 6,000 more. Frontenac is profuse in thanks, and at the same time begs for another 6,000 francs, "to complete a work which is the ornament and beauty of the city" (1696).

The Minister sent 8,000 more, which was soon gone; and Frontenac drew on the royal treasurer for 5,047 in addition. The Intendant complains of his extravagance, and says that he will have nothing but perfection; and that besides the chateau, he has insisted on building two guard-houses, with mansard roofs, at the two sides of the gate. "I must do as he says," adds the Intendant, "or there will be a quarrel."

(_Champigny au Ministre_, 13 _Oct._, 1697). In a letter written two days after, Frontenac speaks with great complacency of his chateau, and asks for another 6,000 francs to finish it. As the case was urgent he sold six more licenses at 1,000 francs each, but he died too soon to see the completion of his favorite work (1698). The new chateau was not finished before 1700, and even then it had no cistern. In a pen sketch of Quebec, on a ma.n.u.script map of 1699, preserved in the Depot de Cartes de la Marine, the new chateau is distinctly represented. In front is a gallery or balcony resting on a wall and b.u.t.tresses at the edge of the cliff. Above the gallery is a range of high windows, along the face of the building, and over these a range of small windows and a mansard roof. In the middle is a porch opening on the gallery, and on the left extends a battery, on the ground now occupied by a garden along the brink of the cliff. A water-colour sketch of the chateau taken in 1804, from the land side, by William Morrison, Jr., is in my possession. [37] The building appears to have been completely remodelled in the interval. It is two stories in height, the mansard roof is gone, and a row of attic windows surmount the second story. In 1809 it was again remodelled at a cost of ten thousand pounds sterling, a third story was added, and the building, resting on the b.u.t.tresses which still remain under the bal.u.s.trade of Durham (Dufferin) Terrace, had an imposing effect when seen from the river.

It was destroyed by fire in 1834.--(Parkman's _Old Regime_.)

HALDIMAND CASTLE

After sketching Fort St. Louis, begun in 1624,--a refuge against the Iroquois, and whose bastions rendered useless disappeared shortly after the conquest, as well as giving the history of the Chateau St. Louis proper, destroyed by fire 23rd January, 1834, it behoves us to close the narrative with a short account of the origin of the wing or new building still extant, and used since 1871 as the Normal School. This structure generally, though improperly styled the _Old Chateau_, dates back to the last century. On the 5th May, 1784, the corner stone was laid with suitable ceremonies, by the Governor-General, Sir Frederick Haldimand; the Chateau St. Louis had been found inadequate in size for the various purposes required, viz.: a Vice-regal residence, a Council room for the Legislative, the Executive and Judiciary Councils, &c.

The Province was rapidly expanding, as well as the Viceroy's levees, official b.a.l.l.s, public receptions, &c.; suites of rooms and stately chambers, became indispensible.

The following incident occurred during its construction:--On the 17th September, 1784, the workmen at the Chateau in levelling the yard, dug up a large stone with a Maltese cross engraved on it, bearing the date "1647." One of Wolfe's veterans, Mr. James Thompson, Overseer of Public Works, got the masons to lay the stone in the cheek of the gate of the new building. A wood-cut of the stone, gilt at the expense of Mr. Ernest Gagnon, City Councillor in 1872, appeared in the _Morning Chronicle_ of the 24th June, 1880. Let us hope when the site shall be transferred, that the Hon. Premier will have a niche reserved for this historic relic as was so appropriately done by Sir H L Langevin, for the "Chien d'Or"

tablet when the new city Post Office was built in 1871-3.

Haldimand Castle soon became a building of note. On the 19th January, 1787, the anniversary of the Queen's Birthday--Charlotte of Mecklenburg, consort of George III., the first grand reception was held there. In the following summer, the future monarch of Great Britain, William IV., the sailor prince, aged 22 years, visited his father's loyal Canadian lieges.

Prince William Henry had then landed, on 14th August, in the Lower Town from H. M. frigate "Pegasus." Traditions repeat that the young Duke of Clarence enjoyed himself amazingly among the _beau monde_ of Quebec, having eyes for more than the scenic beauties of the "Ancient Capital,"

not unlike other worthy Princes who came after him.

"He took an early opportunity of visiting the Ursulines, and by his polite and affable manner quite won the hearts of those worthy ladies."--(_Histoire des Ursulines_, vol. III, p. 183.)

Sorel, in honour of his visit, changed its name into Fort William Henry.

Among other festivities at Quebec, Lord Dorchester, Governor-General, the successor to Sir Frederick Haldimand, on the 21st August, 1787, treated H.

R. Highness to a grand pyrotechnic display. "Prince William Henry and his company, being seated on an exalted platform, erected by the Overseer of Public Works, James Thompson, over a powder magazine joining the end of the new building (Haldimand Castle), while the fireworks were displayed on an eminence fronting it below the _old_ Citadel."--(_Thompson's Diary._)

_THE QUEBEC AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY._

In the stately reception room of the Castle was founded, in 1789, the _Quebec Agricultural Society_.

"On the 6th April, the rank and fashion, n.o.bility and clergy of all denominations, as well as commoners, crowded at the _Chateau St.

Louis_, to enter their names as subscribers to the Quebec Agricultural Society, warmly patronized by his Excellency Lord Dorchester, Hon.

Hugh Finlay, Deputy Postmaster-General, was chosen Secretary.

The _Quebec Gazette_ of the 23rd April, 1789, will supply the names, the list is suggestive on more points than one.

Rev. Philip Tosey, Military M. Pierre Florence, Riviere Chaplain. Ouelle T. Monk, Atty-Genl. T. Arthur Coffin G. B. Taschereau, Esq. Capt. Chas. St. Ours.

Peter Stewart, Esq. Aug. Glapion, Sup. Jesuites.

Malcolm Fraser, Esq. A. Hubert, Cure de Quebec.

William Lindsay, Esq. Juchereau d.u.c.h.esnay, Esq.

J. B. Descheneaux, Esq. L. de Salaberry, Esq.

John Lees, Esq. P. Panet, P.C.