Old Mackinaw Part 3

The "New Mackinaw," as it is called, distant seven miles from the Old, is on an island about nine miles in circ.u.mference, and covers an area of six thousand acres. Its extreme elevation above the lake is about three hundred and twelve feet. The village and fortress are situated on the southeastern extremity of the island, where there is a good harbor protected by a water battery. The island remained in possession of the British until 1793, when it was surrendered to the United States. It was retaken in 1812, but restored again by the treaty of Ghent, in 1814. It is situated in North lat. 45 54', West lon. 84 30' from Greenwich, being 7 30' west from Washington. It is three hundred and fifty miles north of Chicago and about three hundred miles north from Detroit, and about two hundred and fifty miles west of Collingswood, Canada. The fort stands on an elevated ground about two hundred feet above the water. The town contains at present three hotels, six boarding houses, eight dry-goods stores, and seven groceries. Its public buildings are a Court House, Jail, Custom House, Post Office, and Express Office. There are two Churches, the Roman Catholic and Presbyterian.

The first thing we shall notice as a natural attraction on the island, is what is called "The Arch Rock." This is a natural arch projecting from the precipice on the northeastern side of the island, about a mile from the fort, and elevated about one hundred and forty feet above the level of the water. Its abutments are formed of calcareous rock, and have been produced by the falling down of great ma.s.ses of rock, leaving a chasm of eighty or ninety feet in height, and covered by the arch which spans it of fifty or sixty feet sweep. The scene presented by cliff and chasm is one of wild grandeur. Like the Natural Bridge of Virginia, it possesses an attraction to all fond of natural curiosities, sufficient of itself to justify a visit to the northern lakes. The view from the beach is particularly grand. Before you is a magnificent arch suspended in mid air. Indian tradition says that this wonderful arch was formed by the giant spirits who inhabited this island. Geological tradition, however, indicates that it was formed by the action of the waters, which were at a remote period much higher than at the present time.

The next object which strikes the attention of the visitors is the "Sugar Loaf Rock," a high, isolated, conical rock which, resting upon the elevated plateau that forms the next highest point of the island from that of Fort Holmes, exhibits a rise of some sixty to eighty feet. This is but little less than the elevation of the ridge which forms the crowning plan of the island, and upon which the dismantled post of Fort Holmes is seen, being separated therefrom by a distance not exceeding one hundred and fifty yards. By what violent throe of nature it has become severed from the adjacent ridge, of which it no doubt, formed a part, is matter of curious inquiry. Has nature done this by gradual recession, or by the slow upheaval of the land? On inspection, this rock is found cavernous, slightly crystalline, with its strata distorted in every conceivable direction. In its crevices grow a few cedars and vines. As the visitor approaches it by the road side its effect is grand and imposing; still more so, perhaps, when beheld from the top of the ridge, where its isolated position with its bold form, breaking the outline of the island, strikes the beholder with wonder and admiration.

Robinson's Folly is a high bluff, northeast from the village of Mackinaw, half a mile from the mission house. Soon after the settlement of the modern Mackinaw, Capt. Robinson, of the English army, then commanding this port, had a summer house built on the brow of this bluff, now called Robinson's Folly, for the purpose of enjoying the prospect from that cool and elevated spot. Often he and his brother officers resorted there during the summer days, to while away lonely and tedious hours. Pipes, cigars, and wine, were brought into requisition. No Englishman at that period was without them; in fact, no hospitality or entertainment was complete without them. They were indeed isolated; the nearest white settlements being then Detroit, Green Bay, Saut St. Mary, and Chicago. Communications with these places were not frequent.

A few years after, from the action of the elements, the brow of the bluff, where Robinson's Folly stood, was precipitated to the base of the rock, where the fragments can now be seen, which disastrous event gave rise to its name.

The "Scull Rock," half a mile or three quarters northwest from the rear of Fort Mackinaw, is chiefly noted for a cavern, which appears to have been a receptacle for human bones, many of which were still to be observed about its mouth a few years ago. The entrance is low and narrow, and seems to promise little to reward the labors of exploration. It is here probably that Alexander Henry was secreted by the chief Wawatam after the horrid ma.s.sacre of the British garrison at Old Mackinaw.

Chimney Rock well repays the trouble of a visit, with the other points of interest on the island.

Dousman's Farm, two miles west from the Village of Mackinaw, consists of a section of land; the road to the English or British landing pa.s.ses through it, also to Scott's or Flinn's Cave, which is on the northwestern portion of the farm. There are three springs of cold delicious water on this farm, two of them are shaded by beech and maple trees. This farm yields yearly from eighty to one hundred tons of hay, besides a large quant.i.ty of potatoes and other farm produce.

Davenport's Farm, about one and a half miles from the village, is situated on the southwestern portion of the Island. At the base of the bluff, on the south part of this farm, is the Devil's Caves, and near them is a beautiful spring of clear cold water, shaded by evergreens and other trees. Half way up the bluff, which is nearly, if not fully, three hundred feet high at this point; stands out, detached from the limestone, an isolated rock, in appearance similar to the Sugar Loaf Rock, which some persons have called the Lover's Leap; it is worth the trouble of a visit, which a few minutes walk from the village accomplishes. There are several points called Lover's Leap, so called by romantic visitors, within the last few years. A gentleman from Chicago, has purchased this farm, and report says that several summer-houses are to be built upon it, which will enhance the beauty of this locality.

Wm. M. Johnston Esq., furnishes the following tradition of Lover's Leap:

"The huge rock called the 'Lover's Leap' is situated about one mile west of the village of Mackinaw. It is a high perpendicular bluff, one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height, rising boldly from the sh.o.r.e of the lake. A solitary pine tree formerly stood upon its brow, which some Vandal has cut down.

"Long before the pale faces profaned this island home of the Genii, a young Ojibwa girl, just maturing into womanhood, often wandered there, and gazed from its dizzy heights and witnessed the receding canoes of the large war parties of the combined bands of the Ojibwas and Ottawas speeding south, seeking for fame and scalps.

"It was there she often sat, mused and hummed the songs Ge-niw-e-gwon loved; this spot was endeared to her, for it was there that she and Ge-niw-e-gwon first met and exchanged words of love, and found an affinity of souls existing between them. It was there she often sat and sang the Ojibwa love song--

'Mong-e-do-gwain, in-de-nain-dum, Mong-e-do-gwain, in-de-nain-dum, Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, A-nee-wau-wau-sau-bo-a-zode, A-nee-wau-wau-sau-bo-a-zode.'

I give but one verse, which may be translated as follows:

A loon, I thought was looming, A loon, I thought was looming: Why! it is he, my lover, Why! it is he, my lover; His paddle, in the waters gleaming, His paddle in the waters gleaming.

"From this bluff she often watched and listened for the return of the war parties, for amongst them she knew was Ge-niw-e-gwon; his head decorated with war-eagle plumes, which none but a brave could sport.

The west wind often wafted far in advance the shouts of victory and death, as they shouted and sang upon leaving Pe-quod-e-nong (Old Mackinaw), to make the traverse to the Spirit, or Fairiy Island.

"One season, when the war party returned, she could not distinguish his familiar and loving war shout. Her spirit, told her that he had gone to the Spirit-Land of the west. It was so: an enemy's arrow had pierced his breast, and after his body was placed leaning against a tree, his face fronting his enemies, he died; but ere he died he wished the mourning warriors to remember him to the sweet maid of his heart. Thus he died far away from home and the friends he loved.

"Me-she-ne-mock-e-nung-o-qua's heart hushed its beatings, and all the warm emotions of that heart, were chilled and dead. The moving, living spirit of her beloved Ge-niw-e-gwon, she witnessed continually beckoning her to follow him to the happy hunting grounds of spirits in the west--he appeared to her in human shape, but was invisible to others of his tribe.

"One morning her body was found mangled at the foot of the bluff. The soul had thrown aside its covering of earth, and had gone to join the spirit of her beloved Ge-niw-e-gwon, to travel together to the land of spirits."

Another point of interest and curiosity is the Devil's Punch Bowl, situated south from the gateway, as you enter the farm of the late J.

Dousman, Esq.

This Island which rises like a gem on the brow of the lakes, is favored by the clearest and most healthful atmosphere, and washed by the purest and most transparent water in the world, imparting the most pleasurable sensations imaginable. When this enchanting region shall become fully known, Saratoga, Cape May, and Mount Washington will be forgotten by those who fly from the heat and dust of our inland cities, to breathe a pure air and drink health-giving waters.

A traveler in 1854, thus describes this interesting locality, "Everything on the island is a curiosity, the roads or streets that wind around the harbor or among the grove-like forests of the island, are naturally pebbled and macadamized, the buildings are of every style, from an Indian lodge to an English house, the island is covered with charming natural scenery, from the beautiful to the grand, and one may spend weeks constantly finding new objects of interest, and new scenes of beauty. The steamers all call here on their way to and from Chicago, and hundreds of small sail vessels in the fishing trade have here their head quarters. Drawn upon the pebbled beach, or gliding about the bay, are bark canoes, and the far-famed Mackinaw boats, without number. These last are the perfection of light sail boats, and I have often been astonished at seeing them far out in the lake, beating up against winds that were next to gales."

We are indebted to Mr. Johnston for the following official list, giving the number of sail vessels and steamers that have pa.s.sed through the Straits of Mackinaw during the _day time_, as reported to the Revenue department, for six months, ending September 30th, 1859.

Barques. Brigs. Schr's. Steamers.

April, 14 9 101 47 May, 9 11 177 82 June, 15 13 221 194 Next 3 mon's 98 61 764 353 --- --- --- --- 136 94 1263 586

Total, 2079.

It would be a pretty correct estimate to add at least one-third more of the total number for those that pa.s.sed during the night,--which would be a very low estimate of the shipping pa.s.sing through our straits.

But few of the vessels pa.s.sing through the straits leave the main channel, and go to the island some miles out of the way.

The lake traffic has of late years become perfectly enormous, the increase of the western navigation being unprecedented. For example, three thousand and sixty-five steamers pa.s.sed up from Lake Erie to Lakes Huron and Superior, by Detroit, in 1859, and three thousand one hundred and twenty-one pa.s.sed down. The greatest number up in a single day was eighty-five--down seventy-three. Detroit statistics show that five steamers, five propellers, four barques, seven brigs, and eighty-five schooners have been more or less engaged in the Lake Superior trade during the past season. Forty vessels left during the season for European and seaboard ports, some of which have returned, and one has taken her second departure. Navigation at Detroit opened March 14th, and closed December 15th.

William Johnston, Esq., who has long resided on the island, says: 'The Indians, from the earliest times, have always regarded the Island of Mackinaw with veneration. The Indian name is 'Moc-che-ne-mock-e-nug-gonge,'

which, as before stated, signifies Island of Great or Giant Fairies.

"Indian mythology relates that three brothers of great or giant Fairies, occupied different Islands in this section of the country.

The eldest occupied the Island Missilimackinac, the second lived on the Island Tim-au Rin-ange-onge, in Lake Michigan, now called Pottawattime Island, the youngest inhabited an Island called Pe-quoge-me-nis, in Lake Huron. The heathen Indians, to this day, look upon them with awe and veneration, and in pa.s.sing to and fro, by their sh.o.r.es, still offer to the Great Spirits tobacco and other offerings, to propitiate their goodwill. The stories they relate of these Great Fairies, are very interesting and worthy of record.

"The present southern gate of Fort Mackinac overlooks the spot, where in olden times a door existed, to the entrance of the subterraneous abode of these Giant Fairies. An Indian Chees-a-kee, or spiritualist, who once encamped within the limits of the present garrison, related, that some time during the night, after he had fallen asleep, a fairy touched him and beckoned him to follow. He obeyed and his spirit went with the fairy; they entered the subterraneous abode, through an opening beneath the present gate near the base of the hill. He there witnessed the giant spirits in solemn conclave in what appeared to be a large beautiful wigwam. After being there some time, lost in wonder and admiration, the chief spirit directed one of the lesser ones, to show the Indian spirit out and conduct him back to his body. This Indian could never be induced to divulge the particulars of what he witnessed in his mysterious visit.

"An old Indian chief upon leaving this island, to visit his friends in Lake Superior, thus soliloquized, as he sat on the deck of McKnight's splendid steamer, the Illinois, while the darkness began dimly to shadow forth the deep blue outlines of the island:

"'Moc-che-ne-mock-e-nug-gonge, thou Isle of the clear, deep-water Lake, how, soothing it is from amidst the curling smoke of my opawgun (pipe), to trace thy deep blue outlines in the distance; to call from memory's tablets the traditions and stories connected with thy sacred and mystic character, how sacred the regard, with which thou hast been once clothed by our Indian seers of gone-by days; how pleasant in imagination for the mind to picture and view, as if now present, the time when the Great Spirit allowed a peaceful stillness to dwell around thee, when only light and balmy winds were permitted to pa.s.s over thee, hardly ruffling the mirror surface of the waters that surrounded thee. Nothing then disturbed thy quiet and deep solitude, but the chippering of birds, and the rustling of the leaves of the silver-barked birch; or to hear, by evening twilight the sound of the giant Fairies as they with rapid step, and giddy whirl, dance their mystic dance on thy lime-stone battlements.'

"Several old buildings are now standing, the frames of which were brought from old Mackinaw in the year 1764, which gives an odd and venerable appearance to the village. Mr. Schoolcraft had the door of Marquette's Chapel pointed out to him, which had been brought over from Mackinaw, and hung to one of the edifices of the town.

"The village formerly received its greatest support from the fur trade, when in the hands of the late John Jacob Astor, Esq., being, at that time, the outfitting and furnishing place for the Indian trade.

His outfits extended then to the head waters of the Mississippi, on the northwest, south to Chicago, southwest by the way of Green Bay, to the Mississippi, and Missouri Rivers, in fact his business was carried on throughout all the then northwest Indian country. This trade became extinct in 1834, when Mr. Astor sold out to Ramsey Crooks, Esq., of New York, and others, but it lacked the energy and controlling influence which had been characteristic of Mr. Astor's business, and after languishing a few years, the new company became involved and their outposts were discontinued.

"The place since then has been mostly supported from the fisheries, which are excellent and extensive. It is estimated that twenty thousand barrels of white fish and trout are exported from this country alone annually, estimated worth, at this point, about one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. A material support is also derived from the immense amount of trade.

"The population is fluctuating, owing to the influx of strangers seeking health, traders, and Indians; but the permanent inhabitants of the village are about one thousand and fourteen, as per census of 1854.

"Fort Mackinac stands on a rocky eminence immediately above the town, and is at present garrisoned by a company of United States troops: a chaplain (Episcopalian) is attached to the garrison, and services are held there every Sabbath. Fort Holmes occupies the highest bluff of the island, and is not at present occupied: this fortress was erected by the English, while they held possession of the island, during the last war, and by them named Fort George. But after the surrender of the island in 1814, the name was altered in compliment to the memory of Major Holmes of the United States Army, who fell in the unfortunate attack upon the island by Col. Croghan. The gallant Holmes was killed a little below the rise of ground, as you descend toward the Dousman farm-house, on your way to the British landing. On Fort Holmes is a triangular station for the government engineers, who have been at work some years in the straits.

"Visitors mounting the station on a still clear day, have a view of this island, the straits with its curves, islands and points, and the adjacent sh.o.r.es, which well repays them, especially on a calm day, for the lake and green woods lie in stillness before them, taking the mind for hundreds of years back, to the time when thousands of warriors occupied the prominent points brought within view.

"Off to the northwest, some four or five miles, lies the mixed Canadian and Indian settlement of Point St. Ignace and Moran Bay, with a few farms, which give a more agreeable view to the otherwise sameness of wood and water. There the Indians, called the Au-se-gum-ugs, lived until driven away by the Ojibwas and Ottawas, as they extended their conquests south and west. There also the Iroquois were permitted to locate and live before the French reached and settled on the St. Lawrence, there some of the Iroquois were ma.s.sacred and driven off by the Ojibwas and Ottawas. North of this can be seen the outlines of the bluff called "Rabbit Sitting," northeasterly the St. Martin Islands, the entrance of the Chenoux, and the dividing ridge between this and the Saut St. Mary. On the northeast can be seen the Detour, and to the south, Bois Blanc Light-House, and the Cheboy-e-gun; and on the west the Straits of Lake Michigan, with Waugoohance Point and Light-House.

"To the northwest of the ridge, where the woods slope by a gradual descent to the sh.o.r.es of the Island, is the place at which the English in the last war (1812), from six to eight hundred strong, composed of a few English, Canadians, the majority being Indians, landed at night, and having secured Michael Dousman's cattle, at his farm adjoining the landing, and succeeded during the night in reaching the hollow, which may be seen on the way from Fort Mackinac to Fort Holmes, a little northwest of the present parade-ground, or nearly opposite the northwest rear gate of the present fort, with their cannon, which by daylight, was placed in battery on the knoll south of the hollow before alluded to, which by its position completely commanded the western gate and the garrison itself, took their station.

"At dawn the citizens of the village were roused, and told to flee to a place called the Distillery, west of the present village, as the English troops were about to attack the American fort, and that the English commanding officer had pledged his word for the safety of the lives of those citizens who would flee to the place designated. This was the first intimation the citizens had of war being declared between the United States and Great Britain. Soon a cannon shot was fired over the fort, its booming being also the first intimation the American garrison had of the country being in a state of war. An English officer appeared with a flag to summon the garrison to surrender, stating the overwhelming force they had in command. The American garrison, being short of one full company of men, was surrendered, and the few troops taken and sent to Detroit on parole.

After this the English built and occupied Fort George, (now called Fort Holmes) between the years 1812 and 1814. The English government paid ten thousand pounds as prize-money to the volunteers and soldiers, and merchandise and arms to the Indians. In the year 1836 I examined the list or pay-roll for this prize-money; the names of all those who partic.i.p.ated in the taking of Fort Mackinac were there enrolled, the money was divided according to rank, and each person receipted for his individual share.

"It is worth knowing, that by the treaty of Paris, of 1783, acknowledging the independence of the United States, and fixing its boundaries, Fort Mackinac fell under the jurisdiction of the United States, and was surrendered, according to McKenzie, in 1794. In 1812 it was taken, as before stated, by the English and their Indian allies. It resisted an attack from a strong detachment of the American army and navy in 1814, under Col. Croghan, and was finally restored to the United States by the treaty of Ghent.

"In 1814 Col. Croghan landed at the English Landing, under cover of the guns of the American vessels. The troops moved from the landing, and had reached Mr. M. Dousman's farm-house. The skirmishing with the English and Indians had already commenced. East from the house is a ridge over which the road lay. On this ridge and back of it, also on each side of the road, the English were posted in force. The gallant Major Holmes, on reaching the clearing near the house, formed his men for a charge upon the enemy posted on the ridge. To encourage his troops he led the charge. The English and Indians, seeing the strong force, had commenced retreating, when an English sergeant thought he might as well discharge the cannon before retreating with his comrades, so accordingly applied the match. At this instant, Major Holmes was either killed by a grape shot, or by an accidental musket ball. His death threw the Americans into a panic, and they immediately commenced a retreat, which ended in confusion.

"When the fleet first appeared before the island, there was only one company of troops in the fort--had Col. Croghan then summoned it to surrender, it would have been given up; but he sailed away, went and burnt the trading-houses at Old St. Joseph's Island, and from thence sent an expedition to the Saut St. Mary, under Major Holmes, who burned the North West Fur Company Houses on the Canada side, and carried away all the personal property of individuals on the American side. Thus ten or twenty days were lost. In the mean time, the Indians had come to the defense of Fort Mackinac, and, on the second appearance of Col. Croghan, they were prepared, and our troops shamefully defeated.

"This island, although the bluffs present the appearance of sterility, is covered with a strong soil, which is continually renovated by the spontaneous decomposition of calcareous rock. The common growth of trees on the island are the sugar-maple, beech, birch, white and yellow pine, white and red spruce, balsam fir, white cedar, iron wood, and the poplar; the trees now seen are the second and third growth. On the northwestern part of Mr. Dousman's farm, a few of the old patriarchs of the forest are still standing."