Odd People Part 19

Language, of itself, is no _proof_ of the natural affinities of two peoples. It is evidence of their once having been in juxtaposition,-- not much more. Of course when other points correspond, similarity of speech becomes a valuable corroboration. It is not our purpose, then, to inquire whence the Laplander came,--only _where_ he is now, and _what_ he is now. Where is he now?

If you take your map of Europe, and draw a line from the Gulf of Kandalax, in the White Sea, to the middle of the Loffoden Isles, on the Norwegian coast, you will cut off the country which is now properly called Lapland. The country at present inhabited by the people called Laplanders, will be found north of this line. It is a boundary more imaginary than real: for in truth there is no political division known as Lapland, nor has there been for hundreds of years. It is said there once was a kingdom of Lapland, and a nation of Laplanders; but there is no proof that either one or the other ever existed. There was a peculiar people, whom we now style Laplanders, scattered over the whole northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and wandering as far south as the sh.o.r.es of the Gulf of Bothnia; but, that this people had ever any general compact, or union, deserving the name of government or nation, there is no proof. There is no evidence that they ever enjoyed a higher degree of civilisation than they do at present; and that is not one iota higher than exists among the Esquimaux of North America,-- notwithstanding the advantage which the Laplander has in the domestication of a ruminating quadruped and a knowledge of the Christian religion.

The tract of country which I have above a.s.signed to the modern Laplander, is to be regarded rather as meaning that portion of Northern Europe, which can scarcely be said to be in the occupation of any other people. True Laplanders may be found dwelling, or rather wandering, much to the south of the line here indicated,--almost to the head of the Bothnian Gulf,--but in these southern districts, he no longer has the range clear to himself. The Finn--a creature of a very different kind-- here meets him; constantly encroaching as a colonist on that territory which once belonged to the Laplander alone.

It becomes necessary to say a few words about the names we are using: since a perfect chaos of confusion has arisen among travellers and writers, in relation to the nomenclature of these two people,--the Finns and the Laplanders.

In the first place, then, there is in reality no such a people as Laplanders in Northern Europe. The word is a mere geographical invention, or "synonyme," if you wish. The people to whom we apply the name, call themselves "Samlash." The Danes and Norwegians term them "_Finns_;" and the Swedes and Russians style them "_Laps_." The people whom _we_ know as Finns--and who are not Laplanders in any sense--have received the appellation of Finns erroneously. These Finns have for a long period been making progress, as colonists, in the territory once occupied by the true Finns, or Laplanders; and have nothing in common with these last people. They are agriculturists, and dwell in fixed settlements; not pastoral and nomadic, as the Laplanders eminently are.

Besides, there are many other essential points of difference between the two,--in mind,--in personal appearance, in habits, in almost everything.

I am particular upon this point,--because the wrong application of the name _Finns_, to this last-mentioned race, has led writers into a world of error; and descriptions given of them and their habits have been applied to the people who are the subjects of the present chapter,-- leading, of course, to the most erroneous conclusions. It would be like exhibiting the picture of a Caffre as the likeness of a Hottentot or Bushman!

The Finns, as geography now designates them,--and which also a.s.signs to them a country called Finland,--are, therefore, not Finns at all.

Where, they are found in the old Lapland territory as colonists, they are called _Quans_; and this name is given them alike by Russians, Swedes, Danes, and Norwegians.

To return to our Laplanders, who are the true Finns. I have said that they are called by different names; by the Danes and Norwegians "Finns,"

and by the Russians and Swedes simply "Laps." No known meaning is attached to either name; nor can it be discovered at what period either came into use. Enough to know that these are the designations by which they are now known to those four nations who have had chiefly to deal with them.

Since these people have received so many appellations,--and especially one that leads to much confusion,--perhaps it is better, for geography's sake, to accept the error: to leave the _new_ Finns to their usurped t.i.tle, and to give the old Finns that distinctive name by which they are best known to the world, viz _Laplanders_. So long as it is remembered, that this is merely a geographical t.i.tle, no harm can result from employing it; and should the word _Finns_ occur hereafter, it is to be considered as meaning not the Finns of Norwegian Finmark, but the Quans of Finland, on the Gulf of Bothnia.

I have spoken of the country of the Laplanders, as if they _had_ a country. They have not. There is a territory in which they dwell; but it is not theirs. Long, long ago the lordship of the soil was taken from them; and divided between three powerful neighbours. Russia took her largest slice from the east; Sweden fell in for its southern part; and Norway claimed that northern and western portion, lying along the Atlantic and Arctic Oceans. This afterwards became the property of Denmark: when Norway herself ceased to be independent.

The country, therefore, which I have defined as Lapland, in modern times is so styled, merely because it is almost exclusively occupied by these people: it not being worth the while of their Danish, Swedish, or Russian masters to colonise it. All three, however, claim their share of it,--have their regular boundary lines,--and each mulcts the miserable Laplander of an annual tribute, in the shape of a small poll-tax. Each, too, has _forced_ his own peculiar views of Christianity on those within his borders,--the Russian has shaped the Lap into a Greek Christian; while, under Swedish influence, he is a disciple of Martin Luther. His faith, however, is not very rational, one way or the other; and, in out-of-the-way corners of his chaotic country, he still adheres to some of his old mythic customs of sorcery and witchcraft: in other words, he is a "pagan."

Before proceeding to describe the Laplander, either personally or intellectually, a word about the country in which he dwells. I have called it a _chaotic_ land. It has been described as a "huge congeries of frightful rocks and stupendous mountains, with many pleasant valleys, watered by an infinite number of rivulets, that run into the rivers and lakes." Some of the lakes are of large extent, containing a countless number of islands; one alone--the Lake Enaro--having so many, that it has been said no Laplander has lived long enough to visit each particular island. There is a great variety in the surface of the land.

In some parts of the country the eye rests only on peaks and ridges of bleak, barren mountains,--on summits covered with never-melting snow,-- on bold, rocky cliffs or wooded slopes, where only the firs and birches can flourish. In other parts there are dusky forests of pines, intersected here and there by wide mora.s.ses or bogs. Elsewhere, are extensive tracts of treeless champaign, covered with the white reindeer-lichen, as if they were under a fall of snow!

During summer there are many green and beautiful spots, where even the rose sheds its fragrance around, and many berry-bearing bushes blossom brightly; but the summer is of short duration, and in those parts where it is most attractive, the pest of gnats, mosquitoes, and gadflies, renders the country uninhabitable to the Laplander. We shall see presently, that, in the summer months, he flees from such lowland scenes, as from a pestilence; and betakes himself and his herd to the bleak, barren mountains.

Having given this short sketch of the country inhabited by the Laplander, we proceed to a description of himself.

He is short,--not more than five feet five inches, average height,-- squat and stoutish,--rarely corpulent,--though there is a difference in all these respects, between those who inhabit different parts of the country. The Laps of Norwegian Lapland are taller than those in the Russian and Swedish territory.

His features are small, his eyes elongated, or slit-like, as among the Mongolian tribes; his cheek-bones prominent,--his mouth large and wide, and his chin sharply-pointed. His hair is black, or sometimes brownish; though among some tribes settled along the coasts light hair is not uncommon. It is probable that this may have originated in some admixture of blood with Norwegian, Russian, and other fishermen who frequent these coasts.

The Laplander has little or no beard; and in this respect he resembles the Greenlander and Esquimaux. His body is ill-made, bony and muscular, and stronger than would be expected from his pigmy stature. He is active, and capable of enduring extreme fatigue and privation; though it is a mistake to suppose that he is the agile creature he has been represented,--this error arising no doubt from the surprising speed with which habit has enabled him to skate over the frozen snow; and which, to a person unused to it, would appear to prove an extraordinary degree of agility. The hands and feet are small,--another point in common with the Esquimaux. The Laplander's voice is far from being a manly one. On the contrary, it is of small compa.s.s, weak, and of a squeaking tone.

The complexion of the Laplander is generally regarded as _dark_. Its natural hue is perhaps not much darker than that of the Norwegian.

Certainly not darker than many Portuguese or Spaniards; but, as he is seen, he appears as swarth as an Indian. This, however, arises from the long and almost constant exposure to smoke: in the midst of which the miserable creature spends more than half of his time.

It may again be observed, that those dwelling on the seash.o.r.e are of lighter complexion; but perhaps that is also due to a foreign admixture.

We have given a picture of the Laplander's person; now a word or two about his mind.

Both his intellectual and moral man are peculiar,--even more so than his physical,--differing essentially from that of all the other nationalities with which he is brought in contact. He is cold-hearted, selfish, and morose. To love he is almost a stranger; and when such a feeling does exist within his bosom, it is rather as a spark than a pa.s.sion. His courtship and marriage are pure matters of business,-- rarely having any other motive than self-interest. One woman will do for his wife wife as well as another; and better, if she be richer by half a dozen reindeer!

Hospitality is a virtue equally unknown to him. He wishes to see no stranger; and even wonders why a stranger should stray into his wild, bleak country. He is ever suspicious of the traveller through his land; unless that traveller chance to come in the guise of a Russian or Norwegian merchant, to exchange strong brandy for his reindeer-skins, or the furs of the animals he may have trapped. In his dealings he exhibits a sufficient degree of cunning,--much more than might be expected from the low standard of his intellect; and he will take no paper-money or any kind of "scrip" in exchange. This caution, however, he has acquired from a terrible experience, which he once had in dealing with paper-money; and he is determined that the folly shall never again be repeated. Even in _his_ out-of-the-way corner of the globe, there was at one time a bank speculation of the "Anglo-Bengalee" character, of which the poor Lap was made an especial victim.

He has no courage whatever. He will not resist oppression. The stranger--Russ or Norwegian--may strike, kick, or cuff him,--he will not return the blow. Belike he will burst into tears!

And yet, under some circ.u.mstances, he shows a feeling akin to courage.

He is cool in moments of danger from the elements, or when opposed to fierce animals, as the wolf or the bear. He is also capable of enduring fatigue to an extreme degree; and it is known historically that he was once warlike,--at least much more so than at present. _Now_, there is not a drop of warrior blood in his veins. On the contrary, he is timid and pacific, and rarely quarrels. He carries constantly upon his person a long ugly knife, of Norwegian manufacture; but he has never been known to draw it,--never known to commit murder with it.

These are certainly virtues; but it is to be feared that with him they owe their origin to timidity and the dread of consequences. Now and then he has a quarrel with one of his fellows; but the knife is never used; and the "punishment" consists in giving and receiving various kicks, scratches, pullings of the hair and ears: genuine blows, however, are not attempted, and the long knife never leaves its sheath.

In the olden time he was a great believer in witches; in fact, noted for his faith in sorcery. Christianity, such as it is, has done much to eradicate this belief; but he is still troubled with a host of superst.i.tions.

Of filial and parental affection his stock is but scanty. The son shifts for himself, as soon as he is able to do so; and but little anxiety is exhibited about him afterwards. The daughter goes to the highest bidder,--to him who is most liberal in presents of brandy to the parent. Jealousy is little known. How could it be felt, where there is no love?

One of the worst vices of the Laplander is his fondness for drink,-- amounting almost to a pa.s.sion. It is one of his costliest, too: since he often consumes the produce of his industry in its indulgence. His favourite beverage is strong, bad brandy,--a staple article kept by the traders, to exchange for the commodities which the country affords. As these men care little for the result, and have a far greater influence over the Laplander than either the government officials, or the lazy, timeserving missionaries, it is not probable that temperance will ever be introduced among these wretched people. Fortunately, only the coast Laplanders are at all times subject to this influence. The mountain people or those who dwell most of their time in the interior, are too distant from the "tap" to be so grievously affected by it. It is only on their short annual visits to the merchant stations on the coast, that they fall extensively into the jaws of this degrading vice.

The dress of the Laplander is now to be described.

The men wear on their heads tall caps, of a conical form, usually of a cloth called _wadmal_, or some species of kersey furnished by the merchants. This cap has a ta.s.sel at top, and around the bottom is turned up several inches,--where it is strengthened by a band of reindeer-skin, or the fur of the otter. The coat is a loose garment or frock: made of the skin of the reindeer, with the hairy side out, and fastened around the waist with a broad leathern belt.

In this belt is stuck the pointed knife, and a pouch or two, for pipe, tobacco, and spoon, are also suspended from it. Breeches of reindeer-skin--the hide of the young fawns--reach to the ankles; and buskins, or rather stockings, of the same material cover the feet.

These are gartered over the ends of the breeches, in such a way that no snow can get in; and since there is neither shirt nor drawers worn, we have given every article of a Laplander's dress. No. There are the gloves, or mittens, which must not be forgotten,--as they are one of the things most essential to his comfort. These are also the universal deer-hide.

Simple as is this dress of the Lapland men, it is not more simple than that of the Lapland women, since both one and the other are exactly alike. A slight difference is observable in the shape of the bonnet; but for the rest, the lady wears the deer-skin frock, the breeches, and boots,--and like her liege lord, she scorns to include linen in her wardrobe. This plain dress, however, is the everyday _winter_ costume.

The summer one, and especially upon grand occasions, is somewhat different, and altogether gayer. The shape is much the same; but the tunic or frock is of cloth, sometimes plain, coa.r.s.e _wadmal_; but in the case of the richer proprietors, of fine coloured cloth,--even scarlet being sometimes worn. No matter what the quality of the cloth, however, the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs are always of rich, bright-coloured stuffs; and consist of bands or cords around the skirt, sleeves, and collar, elaborately st.i.tched by the females,--who are in all cases the tailors. The leathern belt, worn with this dress, is loaded with ornaments,--little square and triangular plates of bra.s.s or white metal, and often of heavy, solid silver. The belt is an esteemed article,--as much so as his wampum to a North-American savage,--and it requires a large sum to tempt a Laplander to part with the precious equipment. A finer cap is also worn, on these summer and holiday occasions. Not unfrequently, however, the Laplander--especially the mountain Lap--sticks to his deer-skin coat, the _paesk_, through all weathers, and throughout all seasons,--when it is too hot simply taking off the belt, and leaving the flaps loose and open. In cold weather, and especially when riding in his sledge, an additional garment is worn. This is a fur "tippet,"

which covers his shoulders down to the elbows. It is made from the s.h.a.ggy skin of the brown bear,--with the claws left on and hanging down in front of the breast.

Before proceeding to describe the mode of life and occupation of the Laplander, it is necessary to state that all of the people known as Laplanders, are not occupied alike. On the contrary, they may be separated into three distinct cla.s.ses, according to the lives which they lead; and it is absolutely necessary to make this cla.s.sification in the ill.u.s.tration of their habits. They are all alike in race and national characteristics,--all Laplanders,--and they differ but little in their-- style of dressing; but, in other respects, what might be said of one would not be true of the other two. I proceed, therefore, to point out the distinction.

The first to be noticed are those we have already mentioned under the t.i.tle of "Coast," or "Sh.o.r.e Laplanders." The name will give an idea of their _habitat_,--as also their mode of life and subsistence. They dwell along the Norwegian coasts, round to the North Cape, and even beyond it. They build their _gammes_, or sod-thatched dwellings, in little villages around the numerous creeks and "fiords" that intersect this rock-bound sh.o.r.e.

Their calling is that of fishermen. They subsist almost entirely upon fish; and live by selling their surplus to the merchants and Russian traders. They keep a few sheep, sometimes a poor cow, but rarely own the reindeer. The life they lead is entirely different from that of their kindred, who dwell habitually in the interior. As it differs little from that of poor fishermen elsewhere, I shall dismiss the coast Laplander without another word.

The second kind of Lap who merits our consideration, is that known as the "Wood Laplander," or, more commonly, "Wood Lap." He is less known than either of the two other varieties; but, as already stated, he differs from them princ.i.p.ally on account of his occupation. His home is to be found upon the extensive plain country of Russian Lapland, and not near the sea. He is a dweller in the pine and fir-forests; and builds him a rude hut, very similar to the gamme of the coast Lap; but he is in possession of some reindeer,--not enough, however, to support him,--and he ekes out a subsistence by fishing in the rivers and fresh-water lakes of the interior, by shooting the elk and wild reindeer, and trapping the fur-bearing animals,--the ermine, the sable, the miniver-squirrel, the badger, glutton, foxes, and wolves.

As his calling is chiefly that of a hunter and trapper, and therefore very similar to like occupations in many other parts of the world, we need not enter into details of it here. For the present, therefore, we must _shelve_ the _Wood Lap_ along with his kinsman of the coast.

This brings us to the third cla.s.s,--the "Mountain," or, as he is often called, the "Reindeer Laplander:" since it is the possession of this animal that chiefly distinguishes him from the other two cla.s.ses of his countrymen.

His mode of life is altogether different from either,--in fact, resembling theirs in but few particulars. True, he fishes a little, and occasionally does a bit of amateur hunting; but these are mere adjuncts or pastimes. His main support is his antlered flock: it would be more truthful to call it his sole support. By the reindeer lives, by the reindeer he _moves_, by the reindeer he has his being.

His life is purely pastoral; he is a nomade,--a wanderer. All the world knows this; but all the world does not know _why_ he wanders. Writers have a.s.serted that it was to seek new pasture for his flocks,--the old ground having been eaten bare. Nothing of the sort. He leaves the fertile plains, just as the willows are putting forth their succulent shoots,--just as the rich gra.s.s begins to spring fresh and green,--and betakes himself to the bleak sides of the mountains. That does not look like seeking for a better pasture. It has nothing to do with it.

Let us follow him, however, throughout his wanderings,--through the circuit of a single year,--and, perhaps, we shall find out the motive that inducts him into the roving habit.

First, then, to be a "Reindeer Laplander," he must be the owner of one hundred head of deer; fewer than that will be of no use. If he have only fifty, he must sell out, and betake himself to some settlement of Quans or Norwegians,--there to give his service for hire,--or else turn Coast Laplander and fisherman,--a calling which he despises. This would be a sinking in the social scale; but, if he has been imprudent or unfortunate, and his flock has got reduced to fifty head, there is no help for it. If he have one hundred, however, he may manage with great economy to rub on; and keep up his character as a _free Reindeer Lap_.

With three hundred he can live comfortably; better with five hundred; but a thousand would render him affluent. With fifteen hundred he would be a grandee; and two thousand would give him the rank of a millionaire!

There are very few millionaires in Lapland, and not many grandees.

Proprietors of even a thousand head are scarce; there are more whose herds number from three hundred to five hundred each.

And here, I may remark, that there is no government,--no tribal organisation. The owner of each herd is the head of a family; over them he is patriarch, but his power extends no further. It is not even great so far, if there chance to be grown-up unruly sons sharing the common tent.

I have used the word tent. That is the Reindeer Laplander's home,-- winter and summer alike. Notwithstanding the severity of his clime, he builds no house; and even his tent is of the very rudest kind known among tenting tribes. It consists of some birch saplings set up in the snow, bent towards each other, and then covered over with a piece of coa.r.s.e cloth,--the _wadmal_. This he prefers to a covering of skins; and obtains it from the Norwegian or Russ trader in exchange for the latter. The tent, when standing, is only six feet high, and not much more in diameter. In this circ.u.mscribed s.p.a.ce his whole family, wife, daughters, sons, often a retainer or two, and about a dozen dogs find shelter from the piercing blast,--seated, or lying beside, or on top of one another, higgledy-piggledy, any way they can. There is room found besides for a large iron or bra.s.s cooking-pot, some dishes and bowls of birch, a rude stone furnace, and a fire in the middle of the floor.

Above the fire, a rack forms a shelf for countless tough cheeses, pieces of reindeers' flesh, bowls of milk, bladders of deer's blood, and a multiplicity of like objects.

The spring is just opening; the frost has thawed from the trees,--for the winter home is in the midst of a forest,--the ground is bare of snow, and already smiling with a carpet of green, enamelled by many brilliant flowers. It is time, therefore, for the Reindeer Laplander to decamp from the spot, and seek some other scene less inviting to the eye. You will naturally inquire why he does this? and perhaps you will express some surprise at a man showing so little judgment as to take leave of the fertile plain,--just now promising to yield him a rich pasture for his herds,--and transport his whole stock to the cold declivity of a bleak mountain? Yes, it is natural this should astonish you,--not, however, when you have heard the explanation.