Mushroom Culture Part 8

_Modes of Cooking Hydnum repandum._--The hedgehog mushroom is dense in structure, and in whatever way it may be cooked, all authorities agree that it must be done slowly at a low temperature until it is tender, and with plenty of stock or white sauce to supply its deficiency in moisture.

_Stewed Hydnum._--"Cut the mushrooms in pieces and steep for twenty minutes in warm water; then place in a pan with b.u.t.ter, pepper, salt, and parsley; add beef or other gravy, and simmer for an hour."--_Trans.

from M. Roques._

"Stew in a brown or white sauce."--_Mrs. Hussey._

"Cut up in bits about the size of a bean, and stew in white sauce, when it will almost pa.s.s off as oyster sauce."--_The Rev. W. Houghton, F.L.S._

_Agaricus orcella_ (Orgelle or Vegetable Sweetbread).

_Pileus_ thin, irregular, depressed in the centre, lobed, with undulated borders, from two to three inches across. In colour clear white, sometimes tinted with pale brown on its prominences, and occasionally with a grey centre or even lightly zoned with grey. Its surface is soft and smooth to the touch, except in wet weather, when it becomes soft and sticky. The flesh is soft, colourless, and unchangeable. _Gills_ crowded, decurrent, at first nearly white, then pinkish grey, taking at length a light brown tint. Spores pale brown. _Stem_ smooth, solid, short, decreasing in size; central when young, but becoming eccentric from the pileus growing irregularly. _Odour_ pleasant, usually compared to that of fresh meal, but Dr. Badham and others think it resembles more closely the smell of cuc.u.mber or syringa leaf.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 41. (1) _Agaricus orcella_ and (2) _Agaricus prunulus_ (Plum Mushroom). Woody places, in autumn; colour, snow-white, with pale rose gills; diameter, 2 to 4 inches.]

_Agaricus prunulus_ (Plum Mushroom).

_Pileus_ fleshy, compact, at first convex, then expanded, becoming depressed in the centre, irregularly waved, and slightly pruinose; from two to five inches broad; surface dry, soft, white, or sometimes grey.

The flesh thick, white, and unchangeable. _Gills_ crowded, deeply decurrent, at first white, then a pale dull flesh-colour, or yellowish brown. Spores pale brown. _Stem_ white, solid, firm, slightly ventricose, an inch or more long, and half an inch thick; naked, often striate, and villose at the base; often eccentric. _Odour_ like that of new meal, but usually too strong to be agreeable.

There has been considerable confusion, writes Dr. Bull, between the two Agarics _orcella_ and _prunulus_; some thinking that we have only _orcella_ in England (_Dr. Badham_); and others only _prunulus_ (the _Rev. M. J. Berkeley_), and others again that they are both the same fungus, differing only in size. Dr. Badham and some others again confuse _prunulus_ with _gambosus_, the fungus of early spring, and this has arisen from the French term _mousseron_ being often applied to both these funguses; but they are so essentially different as not to be liable in any way to be mistaken for each other. _Agaricus orcella_ and _A. prunulus_ are both placed on the same page in the ill.u.s.tration, so that their close alliance may be seen at a glance. Fries treats them as separate funguses, "in deference to ancient authority, since their differences are chiefly in degree." These differences are, nevertheless, so well marked, that they are kept separate here. _Orcella_ is a smaller and more delicate fungus than _prunulus_. It is thinner and less fleshy, more undulated in its borders, and has a lighter and more agreeable odour. _Orcella_ grows in more open glades than _prunulus_; it is usually much whiter in colour, sometimes in high situations white and glazed as an egg-sh.e.l.l, or even pottery. _Orcella_ grows more solitary than _prunulus_, in light, scattered groups, showing an inclination for the neighbourhood of oak-trees, and where it does grow it may be found year after year in the same place, but seldom more than two or three in a spot. Last year, 1869, when _orcella_ was pretty plentiful, _prunulus_ was not to be found in the situations where it grows usually most abundantly. _Prunulus_ is the reverse of all this. It prefers more shaded places, is larger, more fleshy, and with a strong odour rather heavy and overpowering. It grows in greater quant.i.ties together, and not unfrequently in crowded rings from four to six feet in diameter.

As edible funguses they should certainly be kept distinct. _Orcella_ is light and pleasant in odour, and excellent in flavour: it is so tender and delicate as to be termed, not inaptly, "vegetable sweetbread."

_Prunulus_, on the other hand, though always good, is to many people too strong in odour, and more coa.r.s.e in taste.

_Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus orcella and A. prunulus._--"A very delicate mushroom."--_Dr. Badham._ "The flavour of _orcella_ is very delicate, and equal to anything amongst fungi, or rather superior to the majority. The same remarks apply to _prunulus_, which I think is the same thing. It belongs to the first rank of edible fungi."--_Edwin Lees._

_Modes of Cooking Agaricus orcella and Agaricus prunulus._--_Orcella_ being usually found in small quant.i.ties, is best, perhaps, when broiled and served on hot toast. _Prunulus_ will yield an abundance for broiling or stewing, or both. "_Orcella_ should be eaten the day it is gathered, either stewed, broiled, or fried with egg and bread-crumbs like cutlets."--_Dr. Badham._ "However prepared, it is most excellent; the flesh is firm and juicy, and full of flavour, and whether broiled or stewed, it is a most delicious morsel."--_Worthington G. Smith._ "_Orcella_ will dry, and may be preserved in this way. It loses much of its volume, but it acquires _un aroma suavissimo_."--_Vittadini._ _From the Transactions of the Woolhope Naturalists' Field Club._

_Edible Fungi in America._--To give an idea of the rich stores of fungi that spring up in some distant parts of the earth, and in climes so different to ours that one would at first sight suppose such fragile and fugacious bodies as fungi would not abound in them, the following interesting communication from Dr. Curtis, of South Carolina, to the Rev. W. Berkeley is here given. It will prove well worthy the attention of American readers:--

"You have asked me to give you my 'experience with the eatable mushrooms of America.' This will be most satisfactorily done, I presume, in pretty much the same style in which I would narrate it to you at your own fireside. My experience runs back only about twelve or fifteen years.

You may remember that previous to this period I expressed a fear of these edibles, as I had grown up with the common prejudices against them entertained by most people in this country. Having occasionally read of fearful accidents from their use, and there being abundance of other and wholesome food obtainable, I felt no inclination to run any risks in needlessly enlarging my bill of fare. Thus I had pa.s.sed middle life without having once even tasted a mushroom.

"But as under your guidance and a.s.sistance my knowledge of fungi increased, a confidence in my ability to discriminate species grew up with it, and a curiosity to test the qualities of these much-lauded articles got the better of timidity; and now, I suppose, I can safely say, that I have eaten a greater variety of mushrooms than anyone on the American continent. I have even introduced several species before untried and unknown. From the beginning of my experiments, however, I have exercised great caution, even with species long recognised as safe and wholesome. In every case I began with only a single mouthful. No ill effect following, I made a second essay upon two or three mouthfuls, and so on gradually until I made a full meal of them. Fortunately, I have never blundered upon any kind that was mischievous, although I have eaten freely of forty species. This is due, perhaps, to my general acquaintance with species that have been long used in Europe, and hence I have made no experiments upon new species which had not some affinity or a.n.a.logy with them.

"For instance, _A. campestris_ and _A. arvensis_ being wholesome, I did not doubt but that _A. amygdalinus_ (a new species closely allied to _A.

arvensis_) might be safely attempted, and it has proved equally safe and palatable. Indeed, this may be regarded as the safest of all species for gathering, as it can be discriminated from all others even by a child or a blind person. Its taste and odour are so very like those of peach kernels or bitter almonds, that almost invariably the resemblance is immediately mentioned by those who taste it crude for the first time.

This flavour is lost by cooking, unless the mushroom be underdone. When thoroughly cooked I cannot myself distinguish it from _A. campestris_.

One or two persons have expressed the opinion that they can distinguish it, and that it is not quite so good. Others, again, are equally positive that it is better. In the crude state I deem it the most palatable of all mushrooms, as it leaves a very agreeable aftertaste upon the palate, fully equal to that of almonds. This is the thing I sent you some years since for cultivation, but which failed to grow. I very much wish it might be propagated in England, so that we might ascertain whether it would undergo any change of qualities in a different soil and climate. I have for some time been entertaining the suspicion that such is the case with many of our species. Thus, in European books the Morel is described as possessing a peculiar flavour, that has given its name to the Morello cherry. I can detect nothing of the sort in our morel. You speak of _A. Caesareus_ (in _Introd. Crypt.

Bot._) as being 'perhaps the most delicious of all fungi.' This grows in great quant.i.ties in our oak-forests, and may be obtained by the cartload in its season; but to my taste, and that of all my family, it is the most unpalatable of all our fungi, nor can I find many of our most pa.s.sionate mycophagists who will avow that they like it. I have tried it in almost every mode of cookery, but without success. There is a disagreeable saline flavour that we cannot remove nor overlay.

"In the _Tricholoma_ section, in which are several species long known as edible, I did not hesitate to experiment upon any that had the odour and taste of fresh flour. I began with _A. frumentaceus_, not learning from books whether it had been eaten in Europe. To this I subsequently added three new American species belonging to the same group. All are excellent when stewed, and are especially valuable for their appearance in late autumn, even during hard frosts, when other agarics are mostly out of season.

"Again, there seemed such a similarity of texture and habit between _A.

caespitosus_ (_Lentinus_, Berk.) and _A. melleus_, although the former belongs to _c.l.i.tocybe_, that the temptation to a trial of it was irresistible. As it is found here in enormous quant.i.ties, and a single cl.u.s.ter will often contain fifty to a hundred stems, it might well be deemed a valuable species in a time of scarcity. It would not be highly esteemed where other and better sorts can be had; but it is generally preferred to _A. melleus_. I have found this species very suitable for drying for winter use.

"Among the _Boleti_ I ventured, in ignorance if it had ever been eaten, to try _B. collinitus_, on account of its close relationship with _B.

flavidus_. I am not particularly fond of _Boleti_, but this species has been p.r.o.nounced delicious by some to whom I have sent it.

"So among the _Polypores_, I had no fear of harm from the use of a new American species (_P. poripes_, Fr.), on account of its relation to _P.

ovinus_, in its texture and its flavour. The taste of the crude specimen is like that of the best chestnuts or filberts. It has been compared even with the cocoa-nut, and is certainly of very agreeable flavour. It does not, however, make a superior dish for the table, being rather too dry, but it is innocent and probably nutritious.

"Of the '_Merisma_' group of _Polypores_, having already tried _P.

frondosus_, _P. confluens_, and _P. sulfureus_, I ventured, after some hesitation, and with more than usual caution, to test the virtues of a new American species (_P. Berkelei_, Fr.), notwithstanding the intense pungency of the raw material, which bites as fiercely as _Lactarius piperatus_. When young, and before the pores are visible, the substance is quite crisp and brittle, and in this state I have eaten it with impunity and with satisfaction, its pungency being all dissipated by stewing. I do not, however, deem it comparable with _P. confluens_, which is rather a favourite with me, as it is with some others to whom I have introduced it. _P. sulfureus_ is just tolerable; safe, but not to be coveted when one can get better. When I say safe, I mean not poisonous. I cannot recommend it as a diet for weak stomachs, which should be said of some other fungi of similar texture. I am here reminded of an experience I had three or four years ago with this species, which would have greatly alarmed me had it happened at an earlier date in my experiments, and which would probably have deterred anyone unused to this kind of diet from ever indulging in it again. I had a sumptuous dish of it on my supper-table, of which most of my family, as well as a guest staying with us, partook very freely. During the night I became exceedingly sick, and was not relieved until relieved of my supper. My first thought on the accession of my illness was of _Polyporus sulfureus_; but as I remembered that inflammation was one of the symptoms of fungus-poisoning, and I could detect no indications of this in my case, I soon dismissed the rising fear, did not send for the doctor, nor take any remedy. Others, who had partaken of the fungus more freely than myself were not at all affected; and I presume my sickness was no more induced by the _Polyporus_ than by the bread and b.u.t.ter I had eaten. And yet, had I alone partaken of the dish, or had one or two others been affected in like manner, doubtless the night attack would have been very confidently attributed by some to the mushroom; or had this been my first trial of that article, possibly I might ever after have regarded it with suspicion. I learned a few days afterwards from one of our physicians, that this kind of sickness was then somewhat prevalent in the community, and could be attributed to no known cause.

For the credit of this species, therefore, we were fortunately able to distinguish the _post hoc_ from the _propter hoc_.

"There are families in America that for generations have freely and annually eaten mushrooms, preserving a habit brought from Europe by their ancestors. In no case have I heard of an accident among them. I have known no instance of mushroom-poisoning in this country, except where the victims rashly ventured upon the experiment without knowing one species from another. Among the families above mentioned, I have not met with any whose knowledge of mushrooms extended beyond the common species (_A. campestris_), called pink gill in this country. Several such families live near me, but not one of them was aware, until I informed them, that there are other edible kinds. Everything but the pink gill, which had the form of a mushroom, was to them a toadstool, and poisonous. When I first sent my son with a fine basket of Imperials (_A. Caesareus_), to an intelligent physician, who was extravagantly fond of the common mushroom, the lad was greeted with the indignant exclamation, 'Boy, I wouldn't eat one of those things to save your father's head!' When told that they were eaten at my table, he accepted them, ate them, and has eaten many a one since, with all safety and with no little relish. Since that time our mycophagists eat whatever I send them, without fear or suspicion.

"I have interested myself to extend the knowledge of these things among the lovers of mushrooms, and also their use among those who have not before tried them. In the latter work I am not always successful, on account of a strong prejudice against vegetables with such contemptible names, and an unconquerable fear of accidents. Yet, as in my own case, curiosity often conquers these errors. When away from home I have frequently obtained permission from a kind hostess to have cooked a dish of mushrooms that I have found on her premises. It has rarely occurred in such cases that the dish, then tasted for the first time, was not declared to be delicious, or the best thing ever put in the mouth. This latter phrase was once used in reference to so indifferent an article as _A. salignus_. Indeed, I have found several persons who cla.s.s this amongst the most palatable species. To such persons a dish of fresh mushrooms need seldom be wanting, as this one can be had every month of the year in this lat.i.tude. I am induced to believe that the quality of this species varies with the kind of wood it grows from, and that it is better flavoured when gathered from the mulberry, and especially from the hickory, than when taken from most other trees. Its fitness for the table seems also to depend much upon the rapidity of its growth; those which grow slowly, as is the case with some of our garden vegetables, being of tougher texture and of less delicate flavour. A warm sun after heavy rains brings them out in greatest perfection.

"I have several times been asked by persons eating mushrooms for the first time, whether these things belong to the vegetable or animal kingdom. There is certainly a very noticeable resemblance in the flavour of some of them to that of flesh, fish, or mollusc, so that the question, as founded merely on taste, is not an unnatural one. But I was much struck with its propriety when reading an article in 'Fraser's Magazine,' a few years since, written by the late Mr. Broderip, who therein says that mushrooms contain osmazome. If this be so, it accounts both for their flavour and for their value as food. Of this latter quality I had become so well convinced that, during our late war, I sometimes averred, and I doubt if there was much, if any, exaggeration in the a.s.sertion, that in some parts of the country I could maintain a regiment of soldiers five months of the year upon mushrooms alone.

"This leads to a remark which should not be overlooked, upon the great abundance of eatable mushrooms in the United States. I think it is Dr.

Badham who boasts of their unusual number in Great Britain, stating that there are thirty edible species in that kingdom. I cannot help thinking that this is an under-estimate. But if the Doctor is correct, there is no comparison between the number in your country and this. I have collected and eaten forty species found within two miles of my house.

There are some others within this limit which I have not yet eaten. In the catalogue of the plants of North Carolina, you will notice that I have indicated one hundred and eleven species of edible fungi known to inhabit this State. I have no doubt there are forty or fifty more, as the alpine portion of the State, which is very extensive and varied, has been very little explored in search of fungi.

"In October, 1866, while on the c.u.mberland Mountains in Tennessee, a plateau less than 1000 feet above the valleys below, although having very little leisure for examination during the two days spent there, I counted eighteen species of edible fungi. Of the four or five species which I collected there for the table, all who partook of them, none of whom had before eaten mushrooms, most emphatically declared them delicious. On my return homeward, while stopping for a few hours at a station in Virginia, I gathered eight good species within a few hundred yards of the depot. And so it seems to be throughout the country. Hill and plain, mountain and valley, woods, fields, and pastures, swarm with a profusion of good, nutritious fungi, which are allowed to decay where they spring up, because people do not know how, or are afraid, to use them. By those of us who know their use their value was appreciated, as never before, during our late war, when other food, especially meat, was scarce and dear. Then such persons as I have heard express a preference for mushrooms over meat had generally no need to lack grateful food, as it was easily had for the gathering, and within easy distance of their homes if living in the country. Such was not always the case, however. I remember on one occasion during the gloomy period, when there had been a protracted drought, and fleshy fungi were to be found only in damp, shaded woods, and but few even there, I was unable to find enough of any one species for a meal; so gathering of every kind, I brought home thirteen different kinds, had them all cooked together in one grand _pot pourri_, and made an excellent supper. Among these was the Chantarelle, upon which I would say a few words in confirmation of what I have already said upon the varying qualities of mushrooms in different regions and localities. You have somewhere written of this mushroom as being so highly esteemed a delicacy, that it is much sought for when a dinner of state is given in London. Can this be because it is a rarity?

(for nothing common and easily obtained is deemed a delicacy, I believe), or because you have it of finer flavour in England? Here, where it abounds, no one seems to care at all for it, and some would forego mushrooms entirely rather than eat this. It certainly varies much in quality, as I have occasionally found it quite palatable, and again, though cooked in the same mode, very indifferent. I have been unable to ascertain whether this difference is due to locality, exposure, shade, soil, moisture, or temperature. That soil has much to do with the flavour of some species of mushrooms I am well convinced. In a parcel of pink gills I have sometimes found one or two specimens, though perfectly sound, of such unpleasant odour and taste as would spoil a whole dish.

So also with the s...o...b..ll (_A. arvensis_), of which I annually find a few beautiful specimens growing near my residence, upon a gra.s.sy turf which covers a pile of trash made up of decomposed sticks, leaves, and sc.r.a.pings from the adjoining soil. Their taste and odour are perfectly detestable. I had one specimen cooked, but no amount of seasoning could abate the offensiveness of the odious thing; yet within a hundred yards of these I gather specimens of the same identical species, which are of fine flavour, equal to that of the best mushrooms. As I have before intimated the varying flavour of mushrooms growing on different kinds of wood, so here I suppose the unpleasant qualities of some specimens of these two well-known and favourite species, may be owing to something in the soil where they grow which they cannot a.s.similate, and so render a palatable and wholesome species totally unfit for the table. Whether such specimens, if eaten, would be poisonous or unwholesome, I do not feel any temptation to prove. It is not probable that they will ever do any mischief, for it is incredible that any human being should so pervert his instincts as to swallow such a villanous concoction.

"Experience and observations like these would perhaps justify the inference that an innocent species may sometimes be deleterious, on account of its taking up some bad element from the soil. But as I have never known a case of poisoning in families that are well acquainted with the common mushroom or pink gill, that gather the specimens for themselves, and have used this article of food annually for many generations, I cannot agree with a suggestion somewhere made by you, that perhaps all mushrooms contain a poisonous element, but some of them in such small quant.i.ty as to have no appreciable effect. Now, had you seen the quant.i.ties of stewed mushrooms swallowed at a single meal which I have seen thus devoured, and with no more harm than from the same amount of oyster or turtle soup, I think you would be forced to the conclusion that such an amount, even of poisonous infinitesimals, must have had some very unpleasant manifestations, or else be a very innocent diet.

"It is said that the sale of the pink gill (_A. campestris_) is forbidden in the Italian markets, because that species has often proved to be poisonous. May not this have been occasioned by ignorant and careless collectors or by worthless inspectors? To us in America, who use this species so freely and fearlessly, the Italian's curse, 'May he die of a Pratiolo!' would have no more terror than 'May he die of aromatic pain.'

"Our best and standard mushrooms are the pink-gill (_A. campestris_); s...o...b..ll (_A. arvensis_); peach-kernel (_A. amygdalinus_); nut (_A.

procerus_); French (_A. prunulus_); morel (_M. esculenta_); coral (_Clavaria_); and omelette (_Lycoperdon giganteum_). These are almost universally in high esteem. Yet tastes differ on these things as on fruits and vegetables; some putting one, some another, at the head of the list, though fond of all and ever ready to use any of them--as one who prefers a peach may yet relish an apple. There are some among us who regard _A. procerus_ as fully equal to _A. campestris_, and I am almost of the same opinion. When broiled or fried it truly makes a luscious morsel. I mention in this connexion, that this species here bears the name of nut mushroom, from a quality that I do not find mentioned in the books which describe it. The stem when fresh and young has a sweet nutty flavour, very similar to that of the hazel nut. Is this the case with you? Its flavour is so agreeable that I am fond of chewing the fresh stems. From this peculiarity in connexion with its movable ring, its form and colours, I deem it a perfectly safe species to recommend for collecting. We have no species likely to be mistaken for it, except _A.

rachodes_, and I fully tested the innocence of this before commending the first to others. This has been suspected by some, but I have found it harmless. Though pretty well flavoured, it is not comparable with _A.

procerus_, and the flesh is so thin and spongy that no one would choose it when those of more compact texture are to be had. _A. excoriatus_, of the same group, is a much preferable species.

"The Morel is one of my greatest favourites, but this is not found in quant.i.ty except in calcareous districts. A few days since (April 21) I had a dozen for supper, the largest number I ever had at one time.

"The _Lycoperdon giganteum_ is also a great favourite with me, as it is, indeed, with all my acquaintances who have tried it. It has not the high aroma of some others, but it has a delicacy of flavour that makes it superior to any omelette I have ever eaten. It seems, furthermore, to be so digestible as to adapt it to the most delicate stomachs. This is the South Down of mushrooms.

"In this lat.i.tude (about 36 degrees) we can find good mushrooms for the table during nine or ten months of the year. Including _A. salignus_, which some are quite fond of, we can have them in every month, as this species comes out during any warm spell in winter. _A. campestris_ makes its appearance here as early as March, but is not in full crop until September. Several excellent species of the _Tricholoma_ group do not spring up until after frost sets in, and continue into December. Such is the case too with _Boletus collinitus_, which sometimes emerges from the earth frozen solid.

"These observations and experiences are confined chiefly to the Carolinas; though I presume, from casual observations elsewhere, and from information derived from correspondents in other States, that, making some allowance for difference of climate and length of seasons, what I have said is generally applicable to the whole country."

_Why we should not eat Funguses._

The following interesting paper from the Rev. J. D. La Touche was read at a meeting of the Woolhope Naturalists' Field Club:--

"It is said that at Rome, when a mortal is about to be raised to the dignity of sainthood, the precaution is taken of providing a 'devil's advocate,' who, by pointing out as strongly as he can all the faults of the candidate, secures the fair discussion of both sides of the question, and is a guarantee, moreover, that no unworthy aspirant to such exalted honours should be rashly admitted to them.

"On the present occasion I make bold to present myself in this unamiable capacity. No member, indeed, of this respected Club is seeking canonization, yet, a step not less important is contemplated in the enrolment of a hitherto despised and even abhorred member of the vegetable kingdom among the list of its edible products; indeed, some may consider such a step as of more importance to our race than the apotheosis of a peccant mortal; and therefore it would appear that, if in the one instance it is desirable that all the peccadilloes of the candidate should be exposed, _a fortiori_, it must be so in the other.