Molto Gusto_ Easy Italian Cooking Part 21

NUTS To toast nuts, spread them on a baking sheet and toast in a 350F oven, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the type of nut. (Pine nuts can burn easily, so check on them frequently.) Transfer to a plate to cool. To toast nuts, spread them on a baking sheet and toast in a 350F oven, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the type of nut. (Pine nuts can burn easily, so check on them frequently.) Transfer to a plate to cool.

OLIVE OIL The pressed extract of the fruit of the olive tree, olive oil is produced in nearly every province of Italy. Each has its own style and flavor, which in turn defines the style and flavor of the region's cooking. I recommend keeping at least two kinds of oil in the pantry: a boutique Tuscan or Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, for anointing both raw and cooked foods at the moment they are served, and a less expensive extra virgin oil from a larger producer-that is, a less distinctive but still high-quality oil, at a much lower price-for everything else, including frying and sauteing. That said, in my opinion, you simply cannot scrimp when buying extra virgin olive oil. Choose one that you like for general use and stick with it, but from time to time, try other oils from other areas, particularly when cooking dishes from those regions. Among my personal favorites are Tenuta di Cappezana, Castello di Ama, and DaVero, produced by my friends Ridgely Evers and Colleen McGlynn in Calfifornia's Dry Creek Valley from the fruits of trees transported from my grandfather's hometown of Segreminio, near Lucca. It has a rich and peppery intensity. See Pasta for a list of more of our faves. The pressed extract of the fruit of the olive tree, olive oil is produced in nearly every province of Italy. Each has its own style and flavor, which in turn defines the style and flavor of the region's cooking. I recommend keeping at least two kinds of oil in the pantry: a boutique Tuscan or Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, for anointing both raw and cooked foods at the moment they are served, and a less expensive extra virgin oil from a larger producer-that is, a less distinctive but still high-quality oil, at a much lower price-for everything else, including frying and sauteing. That said, in my opinion, you simply cannot scrimp when buying extra virgin olive oil. Choose one that you like for general use and stick with it, but from time to time, try other oils from other areas, particularly when cooking dishes from those regions. Among my personal favorites are Tenuta di Cappezana, Castello di Ama, and DaVero, produced by my friends Ridgely Evers and Colleen McGlynn in Calfifornia's Dry Creek Valley from the fruits of trees transported from my grandfather's hometown of Segreminio, near Lucca. It has a rich and peppery intensity. See Pasta for a list of more of our faves.

OLIVES The fruit of the olive tree must be cured-and, in the process, preserved-using salt, water, lye, or oil, or a combination before it is edible. Uncured olives contain a bitter component called glycoside that is leached out during the cure. All olives start green and eventually ripen to purple or black. Every olive-producing area in the world has its own variety of olives and seasoning profile, and I love them all. My favorites include Gaeta, Kalamata, and Alfonso, but I am happy to try any I encounter. I cure my own each year for gifts to fellow olive appa.s.sionati and for the restaurants. The fruit of the olive tree must be cured-and, in the process, preserved-using salt, water, lye, or oil, or a combination before it is edible. Uncured olives contain a bitter component called glycoside that is leached out during the cure. All olives start green and eventually ripen to purple or black. Every olive-producing area in the world has its own variety of olives and seasoning profile, and I love them all. My favorites include Gaeta, Kalamata, and Alfonso, but I am happy to try any I encounter. I cure my own each year for gifts to fellow olive appa.s.sionati and for the restaurants.

PANCETTA Pancetta, Italian bacon, is cured pork belly. In Italy it is available both rolled (rotolata) up into cylinders and unrolled, or flat (stesa). Here you are most likely to find the rolled version, which the butcher will slice for you. If you are unable to find pancetta, artisa.n.a.l-style American bacon, available in gourmet markets and some better supermarkets, makes an excellent subst.i.tute; www.gratefulpalate.com is a great online source for good bacon. Pancetta, Italian bacon, is cured pork belly. In Italy it is available both rolled (rotolata) up into cylinders and unrolled, or flat (stesa). Here you are most likely to find the rolled version, which the butcher will slice for you. If you are unable to find pancetta, artisa.n.a.l-style American bacon, available in gourmet markets and some better supermarkets, makes an excellent subst.i.tute; www.gratefulpalate.com is a great online source for good bacon.

PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO Parmigiano-Reggiano is the undisputed king of cheeses, and its production is strictly regulated under D.O.C. laws. In order to be considered true Parmigiano, the cheese must have been made entirely in a restricted area that includes only the provinces of Parma, Modena, and Reggio-Emilia and parts of Bologna and Mantova. And the cheese is produced only from April to early November. The rind of true Parmigiano is always imprinted all over with the term "Parmigiano-Reggiano," verifying its authenticity. There are just six hundred or so dairies authorized to make it, following the traditional method: Two milkings from the dairy's cows (and/or those from nearby farms) are used for each batch, and it requires about 160 gallons of milk for each huge wheel of cheese; the average weight of a wheel of Parmigiano is 80 pounds. The milk from the evening milking is left to stand overnight before it is turned into curds; the morning milk is allowed to sit only briefly before it is turned into curd, and then the two are combined. The milk used for the cheese is partially skimmed, as much of the cream is removed (and used for b.u.t.ter or another dairy product) before it is heated, fermented with some of the whey saved from the previous batch, and coagulated. The curd is then cut into tiny pieces and heated before it is finally wrapped in cloth and placed in large wooden molds. The cheese is left in the molds for several days, then it is soaked in a salty brine for about three weeks. Finally, it is aged for at least a year, and for up to 3, even 4, years, before it is marketed. Parmigiano-Reggiano is the undisputed king of cheeses, and its production is strictly regulated under D.O.C. laws. In order to be considered true Parmigiano, the cheese must have been made entirely in a restricted area that includes only the provinces of Parma, Modena, and Reggio-Emilia and parts of Bologna and Mantova. And the cheese is produced only from April to early November. The rind of true Parmigiano is always imprinted all over with the term "Parmigiano-Reggiano," verifying its authenticity. There are just six hundred or so dairies authorized to make it, following the traditional method: Two milkings from the dairy's cows (and/or those from nearby farms) are used for each batch, and it requires about 160 gallons of milk for each huge wheel of cheese; the average weight of a wheel of Parmigiano is 80 pounds. The milk from the evening milking is left to stand overnight before it is turned into curds; the morning milk is allowed to sit only briefly before it is turned into curd, and then the two are combined. The milk used for the cheese is partially skimmed, as much of the cream is removed (and used for b.u.t.ter or another dairy product) before it is heated, fermented with some of the whey saved from the previous batch, and coagulated. The curd is then cut into tiny pieces and heated before it is finally wrapped in cloth and placed in large wooden molds. The cheese is left in the molds for several days, then it is soaked in a salty brine for about three weeks. Finally, it is aged for at least a year, and for up to 3, even 4, years, before it is marketed.

PEPERONCINI Hot peppers are used mostly in southern Italy. The type varies from town to town, but the word Hot peppers are used mostly in southern Italy. The type varies from town to town, but the word peperoncini peperoncini generally refers to the same crushed red chile flakes we find at the pizzeria. Most of us know our own preference for heat levels-I like a lot. I also like to use fresh chile peppers, especially the Mexican varieties like jalapenos, serranos, and sometimes even super-hot habaneros, in many Italian dishes. generally refers to the same crushed red chile flakes we find at the pizzeria. Most of us know our own preference for heat levels-I like a lot. I also like to use fresh chile peppers, especially the Mexican varieties like jalapenos, serranos, and sometimes even super-hot habaneros, in many Italian dishes.

PIMENToN Pimenton is smoked Spanish paprika, and it's incredibly aromatic. The best comes from La Vera in Extramadura, and pimenton de la Vera is labeled Pimenton is smoked Spanish paprika, and it's incredibly aromatic. The best comes from La Vera in Extramadura, and pimenton de la Vera is labeled denominacion de origen denominacion de origen (D.O.C.), signaling its unique status. There are three types of pimenton: (D.O.C.), signaling its unique status. There are three types of pimenton: picante picante (hot), (hot), dulce dulce (sweet), and (sweet), and agridulce agridulce (bittersweet). Pimenton is available in many gourmet shops, or order it online (see Sources); La Chinata is one of the best brands. (bittersweet). Pimenton is available in many gourmet shops, or order it online (see Sources); La Chinata is one of the best brands.

PINE NUTS Pine nuts are the seeds from the pinecones of a stone pine, Pinus pinea. The best are the longer oval-shaped ones from the Mediterranean; try to get these rather than the more triangular-shaped variety from Asia. Because of their high oil content, pine nuts can turn rancid quickly. Store them in the freezer, and always taste one before adding the nuts to a dish. Pine nuts are the seeds from the pinecones of a stone pine, Pinus pinea. The best are the longer oval-shaped ones from the Mediterranean; try to get these rather than the more triangular-shaped variety from Asia. Because of their high oil content, pine nuts can turn rancid quickly. Store them in the freezer, and always taste one before adding the nuts to a dish.

PIQUILLO PEPPERS Piquillos are triangular-shaped small peppers from Spain's Navarra region (although they are now grown in other countries, including Peru). They are roasted over hardwood fires, then jarred or canned in their juices, and the subtle smokiness of the roasted sweet peppers elevates them far above ordinary jarred roasted peppers. You can find them in gourmet markets or order them online; see Sources. Piquillos are triangular-shaped small peppers from Spain's Navarra region (although they are now grown in other countries, including Peru). They are roasted over hardwood fires, then jarred or canned in their juices, and the subtle smokiness of the roasted sweet peppers elevates them far above ordinary jarred roasted peppers. You can find them in gourmet markets or order them online; see Sources.

PORCINI POWDER Porcini powder imparts a deep, earthy fragrance to meats, stews, and other dishes. You can buy porcini powder at some gourmet markets and online, but we make our own at the restaurants by grinding dried porcini mushrooms very fine in a spice or coffee grinder. An ounce of dried porcini will yield about cup powder. Stored in a tightly sealed jar in a cool, dark place, porcini powder keeps almost indefinitely. Porcini powder imparts a deep, earthy fragrance to meats, stews, and other dishes. You can buy porcini powder at some gourmet markets and online, but we make our own at the restaurants by grinding dried porcini mushrooms very fine in a spice or coffee grinder. An ounce of dried porcini will yield about cup powder. Stored in a tightly sealed jar in a cool, dark place, porcini powder keeps almost indefinitely.

PROSCIUTTO Prosciutto is salt-cured, air-dried aged Italian ham. Until fairly recently, prosciutto di Parma, sometimes called Parma ham, was the only type known here, but now several other excellent types are also imported. Prosciutto di Parma comes from Emilia-Romagna and is succulent and delicious. Prosciutto di San Daniele, from Friuli-Venezia, has a slightly sweeter taste. Prosciutto de Carpegna, from a small mountain town in Le Marche, is especially fragrant and delicate. Domestic prosciutto is an unacceptable subst.i.tute, so bite the bullet and splurge. Prosciutto is salt-cured, air-dried aged Italian ham. Until fairly recently, prosciutto di Parma, sometimes called Parma ham, was the only type known here, but now several other excellent types are also imported. Prosciutto di Parma comes from Emilia-Romagna and is succulent and delicious. Prosciutto di San Daniele, from Friuli-Venezia, has a slightly sweeter taste. Prosciutto de Carpegna, from a small mountain town in Le Marche, is especially fragrant and delicate. Domestic prosciutto is an unacceptable subst.i.tute, so bite the bullet and splurge.

The most important tip is to buy your prosciutto from a shop that sells a lot of it-the less time that elapses after a ham is first cut into, the less chance it has to oxidize or dry out. The second most important tip is to have it sliced on a good machine and to have the butcher lay it carefully, not overlapping, on wax-coated paper, not parchment. Prosciutto does not hold well once it is sliced, even if done the right way, so buy just enough for a day or two-and return often to the shop, to help the prosciutto itself.

PROVOLONE Provolone, originally from southern Italy, is the Italian cheese with the greatest variety of shapes and weights, reflecting its ancient origins and deep roots. Each community that produces it has its own characteristic shape. The flavor becomes tangier and the texture flakier as the cheese ages. An excellent table cheese, provolone can be found in smoked versions as well. It is also a good cooking cheese because of its ability to stretch, melt, and flirt with other flavors in a dish. Be sure to buy Italian provolone, not the bland domestic version they slice at the deli. Provolone, originally from southern Italy, is the Italian cheese with the greatest variety of shapes and weights, reflecting its ancient origins and deep roots. Each community that produces it has its own characteristic shape. The flavor becomes tangier and the texture flakier as the cheese ages. An excellent table cheese, provolone can be found in smoked versions as well. It is also a good cooking cheese because of its ability to stretch, melt, and flirt with other flavors in a dish. Be sure to buy Italian provolone, not the bland domestic version they slice at the deli.

RICOTTA Fresh ricotta is not really a cheese, but a product of the cheese-making process. Its name means "recooked," and it refers to the fact that it is made from whey that is heated twice. The whey left over from the daily cheese making is heated until it forms curds that separate out and rise to the surface of the liquid. The curds are then drained, traditionally in rush baskets, and the result is ricotta. Italian ricotta is usually made from whey from sheep's or water buffalo milk (most American ricotta is made from cow's-milk whey). It has a mild, nutty, sweet flavor and a drier texture than typical American ricotta. Fresh ricotta is not really a cheese, but a product of the cheese-making process. Its name means "recooked," and it refers to the fact that it is made from whey that is heated twice. The whey left over from the daily cheese making is heated until it forms curds that separate out and rise to the surface of the liquid. The curds are then drained, traditionally in rush baskets, and the result is ricotta. Italian ricotta is usually made from whey from sheep's or water buffalo milk (most American ricotta is made from cow's-milk whey). It has a mild, nutty, sweet flavor and a drier texture than typical American ricotta.

In Italy, fresh ricotta is sold by weight and comes wrapped in wax-coated paper. If possible, ask to taste fresh ricotta before purchasing it to make sure it's fresh. If it feels p.r.i.c.kly on your tongue or tastes sharp and/or fruity, it's not.

Ricotta salata, which originally came from Sicily but today is also produced in Sardinia and elsewhere in Italy, is sheep's-milk ricotta that is salted, pressed, and aged for at least 3 months. It has a mild, sweet, slightly nutty flavor. It can be used in salads and pasta dishes or shaved or grated over bruschetta toppings, such as the broccoli rabe on Bruschetta & Cheese.

ROBIOLA There are two main types of robiola. Robiola di Piemonte is the name given to a category of soft creamy cheeses that may be made with cow's, goat's, or sheep's milk. These are rindless fresh cheeses that are allowed to age for about a week or so. Robiola di Piemonte is usually formed into cubes or disks and packaged in wax-coated paper. Robiola di Lombardia-rarely available here-has a reddish-brown rind and a much stronger flavor. The Piemonte is the type you want for the recipe on Insalata; look for it at a specialty market or good cheese shop. There are two main types of robiola. Robiola di Piemonte is the name given to a category of soft creamy cheeses that may be made with cow's, goat's, or sheep's milk. These are rindless fresh cheeses that are allowed to age for about a week or so. Robiola di Piemonte is usually formed into cubes or disks and packaged in wax-coated paper. Robiola di Lombardia-rarely available here-has a reddish-brown rind and a much stronger flavor. The Piemonte is the type you want for the recipe on Insalata; look for it at a specialty market or good cheese shop.

SALT There are now dozens of brands of great salt in the market. At Otto, we use Maldon sea salt in most dishes. Harvested along England's Atlantic coast, Maldon sea salt is a high-quality flaky sea salt with a delicate briny taste. Look for it in gourmet markets and some supermarkets. I also like sea salt from Sicily, both fine and coa.r.s.e. I use the coa.r.s.e salt, with its large, chunky grains, for finishing meat and fish, as well as for sprinking on focaccia and other flat-breads. There are now dozens of brands of great salt in the market. At Otto, we use Maldon sea salt in most dishes. Harvested along England's Atlantic coast, Maldon sea salt is a high-quality flaky sea salt with a delicate briny taste. Look for it in gourmet markets and some supermarkets. I also like sea salt from Sicily, both fine and coa.r.s.e. I use the coa.r.s.e salt, with its large, chunky grains, for finishing meat and fish, as well as for sprinking on focaccia and other flat-breads.

SEMOLINA Semolina is ground from durum wheat, a hard wheat high in protein. It comes in both coa.r.s.e and fine grinds; fine semolina is sometimes referred to as semolina flour. Semolina is used to make pasta and a version of gnocchi; it is also sometimes used in tortas or other desserts. Semolina is ground from durum wheat, a hard wheat high in protein. It comes in both coa.r.s.e and fine grinds; fine semolina is sometimes referred to as semolina flour. Semolina is used to make pasta and a version of gnocchi; it is also sometimes used in tortas or other desserts.

SOFFRITTO Soffritto is the flavoring basis of innumerable Italian sauces and other dishes, and it is found in many Mediterranean and Latin cuisines as well (the Spanish spelling is sofrito). It's typically a mixture of finely chopped onions and garlic, often with celery and/or carrots, and sometimes prosciutto or pancetta, which is sauteed gently in olive oil before the remaining ingredients are added. Soffritto is sometimes referred to as battuto. Soffritto is the flavoring basis of innumerable Italian sauces and other dishes, and it is found in many Mediterranean and Latin cuisines as well (the Spanish spelling is sofrito). It's typically a mixture of finely chopped onions and garlic, often with celery and/or carrots, and sometimes prosciutto or pancetta, which is sauteed gently in olive oil before the remaining ingredients are added. Soffritto is sometimes referred to as battuto.

SUNCHOKES Also called Jerusalem artichokes, sunchokes are small pale brown tubers with sweet, slightly nutty-tasting flesh. Despite their name, they have nothing to do with globe artichokes or with Jersusalem. In fact, they are related to the sunflower, and it's likely that their name comes from girasole, the Italian word for that flower-despite the fact that they are actually a North American native. Look for sunchokes at farmers' markets and specialty produce markets. Their season runs from fall into spring, although you may find them at other times of the year. Some varieties are very k.n.o.bby, others are smooth-the smooth ones are easier to clean. They can be eaten raw or cooked, and it is not necessary to peel their thin skins (though you may choose to do so)-just scrub them well. Also called Jerusalem artichokes, sunchokes are small pale brown tubers with sweet, slightly nutty-tasting flesh. Despite their name, they have nothing to do with globe artichokes or with Jersusalem. In fact, they are related to the sunflower, and it's likely that their name comes from girasole, the Italian word for that flower-despite the fact that they are actually a North American native. Look for sunchokes at farmers' markets and specialty produce markets. Their season runs from fall into spring, although you may find them at other times of the year. Some varieties are very k.n.o.bby, others are smooth-the smooth ones are easier to clean. They can be eaten raw or cooked, and it is not necessary to peel their thin skins (though you may choose to do so)-just scrub them well.

TOMATOES A perfectly ripe tomato is a beautiful thing. Unfortunately, tomatoes need to ripen slowly under a hot sun and have a short season. So, while a fresh tomato sauce made with ripe tomatoes may be perfect in the summer, it is always better to use high-quality canned or packaged tomatoes during the off-season. I like two types: Pom, packaged in shelf-stable pint containers, and canned San Marzano tomatoes. A perfectly ripe tomato is a beautiful thing. Unfortunately, tomatoes need to ripen slowly under a hot sun and have a short season. So, while a fresh tomato sauce made with ripe tomatoes may be perfect in the summer, it is always better to use high-quality canned or packaged tomatoes during the off-season. I like two types: Pom, packaged in shelf-stable pint containers, and canned San Marzano tomatoes.

Pom tomatoes, sold in most grocery stores, are simply delicious. You can buy them either chopped or strained (pureed); I often use the strained tomatoes for topping a pizza when I don't have a homemade sauce on hand, and, in fact, we use these for our Otto pizzas. Pear-shaped San Marzano tomatoes are a type of Roma, or plum, tomato. The real thing is grown only in San Marzano, near Mount Vesuvius, outside of Naples. They are available here in specialty markets and some supermarkets (check the label carefully to make sure they are real San Marzanos from Italy). I recommend buying these canned tomatoes and crushing them by hand for sauces, rather than buying crushed canned tomatoes.

Sources ARTHUR AVENUE CATERERS.

2344 Arthur Avenue, Bronx, NY 10458 866-2-SALAMI (272-5264); 718-295-5033.

www.arthuravenue.com Cured meats, specialty items, and cheeses

BIANCARDI MEATS.

2350 Arthur Avenue, Bronx, NY 10458 718-733-4058.

Fresh meat, game, and house-cured meats

CITARELLA.

2135 Broadway, New York, NY 10023 212-874-0383.

www.citarella.com Fish and sh.e.l.lfish of all types

D'ARTAGNAN 280 Wilson Avenue, Newark, NJ 07105 800-327-8246.

www.dartagnan.com Fresh meat, game, and poultry

DEAN & DELUCA.

560 Broadway, New York, NY 10021 800-221-7714; 212-226-6800.

www.dean-deluca.com Cured meats, cheese, olive oil, vinegar, and specialty produce

DIPALO.

200 Grand Street, New York, NY 10002 212-226-1033.

Italian cheese (including eighty-five types of pecorino), cured meats, olives, olive oil, vinegar, bottled amarena cherries, and pasta

FAICCO'S 260 Bleecker Street, New York, NY 10014 212-243-1974.

Cured meats, pasta, oil, and vinegar

FORMAGGIO KITCHEN.

244 Huron Avenue, Cambridge, MA 02138 888-212-3224; 617-354-4750.

Cheese, olive oil, vinegar, pasta, and other specialty foods

GRATEFUL PALATE.

888-472-5283.