Mellifont Abbey, Co. Louth Part 1

Mellifont Abbey, Co. Louth.

by Anonymous.

INTRODUCTION.

In the following pages an attempt is made to describe the ruins of Mellifont as they now appear, and to explain the uses, or probable uses, that the buildings yet remaining must have served when the monks dwelt there. Obviously, some important structural alterations were made when changing the venerable Abbey into a fortified residence; nevertheless the ruins exhibit, on the whole, the characteristics of the primitive plan and style in which Mellifont, as well as all the Cistercian monasteries both in this country and on the Continent, were built. The explanation is founded on reliable authority, being gleaned from most authentic sources, such as, _Les Monuments Primitifs de La Regle Cistercienne_, which is a copy of the Rule drawn up by the Founders of the Order; the _Monasticon Cisterciense_; _Violet Le Duc_; _Jubainville, Etudes sur l'Etat interieur des Abbayes Cisterciennes au XII. et au XIII. siecle_; _Meglinger, Iter Cisterciense_; _La Vie de Saint Bernard_, by Vacandard, etc.

As no Records, or Chronicles of Mellifont now exist, the historical part of the compilation has been derived from different sources, chiefly from our old Annals--_The Annals of the Four Masters_; those of _Boyle_, of _St. Mary's Abbey, Dublin_; _Clyn and Dowling's_; and of _Clonmacnois_; Ware's _Bishops_, etc.; _the Miscellany of the Archaeological Society_; Ussher's _Sylloge_; Morrin's _Calendars of Patent Rolls_, etc. The part relating to disciplinary subjects was drawn princ.i.p.ally from Martene's _Thesaurus Anecdotorum_, Vol. IV., which contains the Decrees of the General Chapter of the Cistercian Order, also, from the _Const.i.tutiones et Privilegia, Menologium_, and the _Fasiculus Sanctorum Ordinis Cisterciensis_, by Henriquez; _Originum Cisterciensium_, tom. I, Janauschek; _l'Histoire de La Trappe_, Gaillardin, etc. The vindication of monks in general, from the aspersions cast on them by their enemies, and the facts appertaining to the Rebellion of 1641, are borrowed exclusively from Protestant sources,--Dugdale's _Monasticon Anglicanum_, Tanner's _Not.i.tia Monastica_, Maitland's _Dark Ages_, Leland's _History of Ireland_, Temple's _History of the Insurrection_, 1641, Tichborne's _History of the Siege of Drogheda_, Carte's _Ormond_, etc.

These by no means exhaust the list of authors consulted and utilised, but they show how far apart the pieces lay which have been st.i.tched together to form a consecutive narrative. The compiler has endeavoured to compress the matter into the smallest possible s.p.a.ce in order to make the little book accessible to all at a moderate price; and he has preferred to allow others to speak rather than to thrust his own opinions on the reader.

Finally, he has borne in mind throughout, the trite saying, _Magna est Veritas et praevalebit_.

CHAPTER I.

THE RUINS.

"Look, stranger; where these stones in ruin lie.

Here in the old, grey times a holy thing Rose up--a cloistered pile; but time swept by And smote the sanctuary with his reckless wing."

(_From the Swedish, by J. E. D. Bethune._)

Of the many historic ruins which dot our country and attest its former greatness, few attract so much attention, and invite so close a study as our monastic remains, pre-eminent amongst which are those of the ancient historic Abbey of Mellifont. In countless pages of our Annals the name appears. In the records of sieges, battles and insurrections, from the day on which a colony of St. Bernard's monks from world-famed Clairvaux, came and settled in its tranquil valley, till having pa.s.sed through many vicissitudes, as an abode of piety and wide-spread beneficence, it became a baronial residence, and finally lost its prestige as the site of a mill, whose remains contrast incongruously with those of such a precious memorial.

And what was Mellifont? It was the first house of the Cistercian Order in Ireland; founded, endowed and enriched by native princes and saintly prelates; the mother of saints and scholars; and at one time, the admiration of our land, as a gem of rare architectural beauty.

Before going back to the shadowy past, let us endeavour to trace amongst its ruins the outlines of the ancient buildings, and to explain the special use and meaning of each in the monastic economy, when white-robed monks trod its cloisters, and knelt and prayed before the altars in its church. Each of the Cistercian churches and monasteries was built upon a uniform plan, with some slight modifications, arising perhaps in all instances from peculiarities of site and local difficulties. Around the whole pile of monastic buildings, and girdling an area of some thirty acres or more, comprising gardens, orchards, meadows, ran a high wall, called the "Enclosure Wall," which served to isolate the denizens of the cloister, and prevent as far as possible all ingress of the world.

Entrance within the precincts of the monastery was obtained through a s.p.a.cious and lofty gate-house occupied by a trusty Lay-Brother, whose duty it was to receive visitors, and dispense hospitality to the poor and the way-farer; thus he formed a connecting link between his brethren within and the world without, from which they were cut off. Extending on either side of this gate-house, or "Porter's Lodge," as it was known in monastic language, was a range of buildings for the exclusive use of strangers of every grade. There were the Hospice proper, an infirmary for the sick poor, with stabling also, in the immediate vicinity, for the horses of travellers:--

"Whoever pa.s.sed, be it baron or squire, Was free to call at the abbey and stay; No guerdon or gift for his lodging pay, Though he tarried a week with its holy choir."

The old tower which is pa.s.sed as one approaches the ruins of Mellifont, was the "Porter's Lodge," and right under it ran the avenue which led to the abbey, but which was converted into a mill-race when Mellifont had reached its last stage of degradation. The present road-way was constructed in order to give access to the mill. The remains of old walls can still be traced stretching on both sides of the tower, and prove its ancient purpose in connection with Cistercian usage, as described above.

Some gate-houses of Continental monasteries, which have till now subsisted intact from the eleventh or twelfth century, bear a striking resemblance to this one at Mellifont. That of Aiguebelle, in particular, near Grignan, in the Department of Drome, France, most closely resembles it.

There can be no doubt that a pile of buildings once occupied and enclosed the whole s.p.a.ce from the old gateway to the church, forming a rectangle, of which the church was the fourth side. The precise purposes these buildings served at Mellifont can now be only conjectured; for, in different monasteries, local wants determined in a great measure the allocation of this site to uses which varied with the circ.u.mstances of each community. That is not, however, to be understood of what are called the "Regular Places;" for these were held to be indispensable, and occupied almost the same position in every monastery. The intervening s.p.a.ce here between the gate-house and the church is now covered over with the debris of ancient buildings, which local tradition says once occupied the side of the hill on which, and about where, a few modern cottages now stand.

Approaching nearer to the ruins, a modern mill obtrudes itself upon the scene, and one cannot help wishing it transported beyond the plane of his observation.[1]

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLAN OF CLAIRVAUX BY DOMMILLEY 1708

1. Entrance.

2. Abbot's House.

3. Guest House.

4. Stables.

5. Church.

6. Sacristy.

7. Cell for Books (Common Box).

8. Stairs leading to Dormitory.

9. The Chapter-House.

10. Parlour.

11. Former Novitiate.

12. Cloisters.

13. Stairs to Dormitory.

14. Calefactory.

15. Refectory.

16. Kitchen.

17. Lavabo (Octagon).

18. Cemetery.

19. St. Bernard's Cell.

20. The Prior's Chambers.

21. Chapel of the Counts of Flanders.

22. Scriptoria.

23. Lesser Cloister.

24. Hall for Theses.

25. Theological School.

26. Infirmary.

27. Common Room of the Infirm.

28. Novitiate.

29. Abbots' Council Chamber.

30. Garden.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: MELLIFONT ABBEY GROUND PLAN]

Arrived at what is now the entrance gate, the visitor beholds in front of him the four remaining sides of what was once an octagonal building, and somewhat nearer on his left, a small roofless edifice. These are commonly, but erroneously, called the "Baptistery" and "St. Bernard's Chapel." Their true purposes shall be explained further on. Immediately at his feet now, extend the sites of the church, and of the once magnificent cloisters. Of these latter not a trace remains, except a mere outline on the green sward, and a few squares of concrete to indicate the position once occupied by them. The plan of the church extends to right and left: the western portion of the nave running towards the river (see Plan), and the entire length is dotted at intervals with blocks which mark the sites of the piers. These concrete blocks were laid by order of Sir Thomas Deane, under whose direction the excavations were made here some few years ago.

The length of the nave cannot now be ascertained with certainty, but judging from the position occupied by some very old walls at the south-western side, it may be roughly stated to have been 120 feet; while 54 feet 6 inches was the width of the whole church, including the aisles.

These latter were each 10 feet wide. The nave had seven bays, and like all Cistercian churches, it was divided into two parts by the Rood-loft and Choir-screen, which stood about midway. This Rood-loft served a twofold purpose; on it was a lectern, where the Lessons of the night-offices were read by the monks in rotation, and thereon the Abbot announced the Gospel proper to each festival, chanting or reading it, according as the office was sung or merely recited, after which, with crosier in hand, he gave his solemn benediction. It answered, too, as a part.i.tion between the choir of the monks and the stalls of the Lay Brethren; the former on the eastern, the latter on the western side of it. This Choir-screen formed a sort of reredos to the two altars, which were invariably found in this position in the churches of the Order. On these altars were offered up daily Ma.s.ses for living and deceased benefactors--a practice which continues in the Order and which dates back to the foundation of the Cistercian Inst.i.tute. Further west was a tribune or gallery, where guests and the dependants of the monastery a.s.sisted at Divine Service, Office and Ma.s.s. Inside the Rood-loft, was the Choir proper, which extended thence to the Chancel, or "Presbytery Step," as it is called in monastic parlance. A small s.p.a.ce was provided between the Choir and the Chancel, in order to allow a pa.s.sage to those who proceeded from the Sacristy to the High Altar within the Chancel. Two rows of stalls ran down on each side the length of the nave. These stalls were generally of carved oak, and were artistically finished. The outer rows were for the novices, and the backs of their stalls formed the desks used by the professed monks, whereon they rested the ponderous tomes containing the sacred psalmody. During the High Ma.s.s the stalls next the Chancel were used, and the place of honour, that is, the first stall on the Epistle, or south side, was given to the Abbot. The Prior, as second superior, occupied the first on the opposite, or Gospel side. The other monks according to seniority occupied the stalls on either side. On the other hand, at Matins and at all the offices, except that in connection with High Ma.s.s, the Abbot's and Prior's stalls were farthest from the Chancel, and next the Rood-loft, and the order of the monks was reversed. In token of his jurisdiction the Abbot's crosier was fixed at his stall. The Cistercian monks call this Rood-loft the "_Jube_," from the first word spoken by the reader when he asks the blessing before commencing the Lessons. The whole nave here at Mellifont seems to have been paved with beautiful tiles; a few of which may yet be seen in their position near the great pier on the north side. At the intersection of the transept with the nave, is the s.p.a.ce called the "Crossing," or "Lantern."

Over this rose the bell-tower, which was supported on solid piers, from two of which sprang the Chancel arch, and from the two others, that of the nave. These piers were formed of cl.u.s.tered columns, but their remains (about five feet high), vary both in dimensions and in style, manifesting, thereby, the partial renovation that took place from time to time. The material of which the whole building was constructed is a buff-coloured sandstone not found in the vicinity of Mellifont, but brought, it is said, from Kells, some twenty miles away; a thing not very difficult, seeing that the river is so convenient. Some, again, are of opinion that the stone was brought from Normandy; which seems to be improbable.

The total length of the transepts is 116 feet; the width 54 feet. The northern one is some four feet longer than the southern. They seem to have had aisles, an unusual arrangement in churches of the Order. In the northern transept were six chapels, the piscinas of which are still to be seen in the piers adjoining. The number of these piscinas cannot fail to strike one as something very singular. Their presence is accounted for in this way. At the date of the foundation of Mellifont and for centuries later, it was the custom for priests of the Order to wash their hands at the foot of the altar before commencing Ma.s.s, the server pouring water on his hands, which he dried with a towel that had been previously laid on the altar. The water used was then cast into the piscina. It was also the custom with them, at that time, to descend from the altar when they had consumed the Sacred Species out of the chalice and to wash their fingers over the piscina.

This northern transept seems to have been a favourite spot for interments; for during the excavations numerous skulls were found there. At Clairvaux, the corresponding site was strewn with the graves of bishops, who selected it as the place wherein to rest after life's weary struggle. No record or memorial of these survives, or of any of the dead interred at Mellifont, to point out the occupant of a single grave. In the northern wall of this transept is a beautiful door-way with jambs of cl.u.s.tered columns. Hard by, the wall was pierced to make a loop-hole when Mellifont was transformed into a fortress. On one side of the door-way are the remains of what must once have been a superb chapel; on the opposite side are a few steps of a spiral stair-case, formed in the thickness of the wall, which led up to the tower, as is to be seen at Graignamanagh, Co. Kilkenny, and other houses of the order in Ireland. The level of the floor here is some five or six feet lower than the adjacent road-way which was raised by the acc.u.mulated rubbish of former buildings that extended along the hill-side where the cottages now stand.

The southern transept may have had its six altars also. The aisle seems to have been built up, and when the alterations which took place in the whole fabric in the fifteenth century were made, a large portion of this transept would appear to have been allocated to the uses of a sacristy. No trace of a sacristy remains elsewhere, and this would be a very convenient place to utilise as one. The remains of some walls lead us to suppose such an arrangement probable. In Cistercian monasteries, a stair-case in this transept near the cloister led thence to the dormitory, but no remains of such a stairs have been discovered at Mellifont. When Sir Thomas Deane had the earth and rubbish, or, as he calls it, the "gra.s.sy mound,"

removed, he discovered the foundations of two semi-circular chapels in each transept, in a line with the site occupied by the High, or princ.i.p.al Altar. (See the dotted lines in the Ground Plan). Describing them, Sir Thomas writes: "Within the circuit of the external walls are the foundations of an earlier church which indicate four semicircular chapels, and two square ones between. Of this church we have no distinct record, but the bases of semi-detached pillars would indicate the date given for the erection of Mellifont." These four semi-circular chapels in line with the High Altar, formed an exact counterpart of the church of Clairvaux which was erected in 1135, and which by St. Bernard's express wish, served St. Malachy as the model for Mellifont.

The chancel terminated in a square end, and was 42 feet deep by 26 feet wide. It was raised about six inches over the floor of the nave, and a slab of limestone extended the entire width with which the tiled pavement was flush. Almost in the centre of the chancel, that is to say, nearly midway between the two piers, are two sockets sunk in sandstone blocks.

What uses they served cannot be affirmed with certainty. However, it may be conjectured that they served to receive the supports on which a violet curtain was suspended during Lent, screening the "Sanctuary." This curtain spanned the s.p.a.ce from pier to pier. The custom is still preserved in the Order. Here on this central spot, a lectern was placed, at which the sub-deacon at Solemn Ma.s.ses sang the Epistle. Here, too, the celebrant of the Community Ma.s.s on Sundays blessed the water with which he sprinkled the brethren, who presented themselves two by two before him. It was here, also, that the Abbot blessed the candles, ashes, and palms, on Candlemas-day, Ash Wednesday, and Palm Sunday respectively. This was called the "Presbytery Step," and the whole s.p.a.ce within the chancel, the "Sanctuary."

The basis on which the High Altar was built still remains. It is distant some few feet from the eastern wall, in order to allow a pa.s.sage for the monks, who on Sundays and Festivals received Holy Communion at this altar, after which they walked around it in single file, and pa.s.sing on by the Gospel, or northern corner, returned to their stalls in the nave. The basis is ten feet long by three and one half feet wide. On the Epistle, or southern side, are the piscina surrounded with a dog-tooth moulding, and the remains of the sedilia or stalls, which were occupied by the celebrant, deacon, and sub-deacon at High Ma.s.s. Under these sedilia a tomb was discovered during the excavations. A skull and some bones, together with a gold ring, were raised from their resting-place; the bones were replaced and covered with the slab of concrete now seen at this spot, but the ring was sold by a workman and could never be recovered. No inscription or tradition identifies the occupant of the hallowed grave.

Could it have been that of the famous Dervorgilla? She was certainly buried at Mellifont, but unfortunately, we do not know the spot where her remains were laid when "life's fitful fever" was over; or it may have been the resting-place of Thomas O'Connor, or of Luke Netterville, both, successively, Archbishops of Armagh; for they, also, were buried at Mellifont.

On the opposite, or Gospel side, is an arched recess having an ornamental moulding around it. This would seem to have been the Founder's tomb, or rather, the remains of it. In the Cistercian Const.i.tutions no special place was allotted for the tombs of Founders, and only the indefinite permission was given, that they, kings and queens, bishops and such like exalted dignitaries, might be buried within the churches of the Order. A general custom, however, prevailed in Ireland of appropriating to the Founder's tomb a s.p.a.ce in the northern wall of the chancel, and directly at right angles with the High Altar. Others, besides Founders, were buried on the north side in the chancel. Thus, in the Annals of St. Mary's Abbey, Dublin, we are told that Felix O'Ruadan, who had been a great benefactor to that house, was buried in the chancel of the abbey church, on the north side. And Felix O'Dullany, the first Abbot of Jerpoint, and afterwards Bishop of Ossory, was interred on the north side of the High Altar, at Jerpoint.