McKinlay's Journal of Exploration in the Interior of Australia Part 7

The cart did not arrive last night as above-mentioned for the reason that one of the bullocks was taken with the staggers. They camped about two and a half miles back and arrived here this morning at 5.45 a.m.; turned the bullocks out for a time to get a drink and pick a few bushes, and started again at 7.48. Travelled for nine miles over desert stony plains and got to top of large sandhill. This hill is called Cannacannanthainya.

Some distance off another sandhill called Mallapoorponannie; and another not quite so far called Cookorda. Another long leading sand range in the distance called Goontyaerie, at the northern termination of which is at present a dry creek known by the above name. There is a native well there and another a little further west. To give the ailing bullock, as he is a good one, a chance of recruiting, I have dipped down the sandhill and camped at 11.35 a.m., and for another reason, it looks like rain. During the afternoon several nice showers.

Wednesday, February 12.

Steady rain for about four hours last night and this morning breaks fine and clear with a wind north. Plenty of water lying all over the desert.

Dray started at 7.40 a.m. and at six and three-quarter miles distant got to Mallapoorponannie sand range, the southern end of which is called Cookorda; about two miles off its northern end dwindles down to nothing in the desert. To the northern end of c.o.o.ntarie sand range a creek and well by the same name; about twelve miles off a detached sand range in the desert, at the north-west end of which are two waters named respectively Dhooramoorco and Moongaara; also on north-east side of sand range another water in creek called Caddryyerra, also a sand range about four to five miles distant. There was a number of small detached sandhills going round to the westward, then a perfect blank round to c.o.o.ntarie well. At about three to four miles struck the flooded flat from the main creek I am now going to. At eleven and a half miles further came to and crossed a deep creek crossing my course at rightangles. At two miles further came to water in Daeragolie Creek, same creek that I crossed before two miles from this; within this last two miles the whole flat is cut up into innumerable channels most difficult to travel over, I must therefore see and get a better road for the cart. Here there is not a green blade of gra.s.s to be seen; there are some green shrubs in the bed of the creek that the camels are fond of. I arrived at this camp at 2.5 p.m.; distance travelled today twenty-three and a half miles. This is an immense creek, timbered on its bank with box, bean, and other trees, the water is in detached holes but good and apparently plenty of fish and ducks. No natives seen yet although their tracks are fresh; the natives that are with me say a number of them have taken advantage of the rain lately fallen and gone out to the sandhills on both sides of this creek.

By native report the creek flows just here south and east, but within two miles from this it turns quite round by south-west and west, pa.s.sing c.o.o.ntarie. Neither cart nor sheep arrived in camp tonight.

Thursday, February 13.

The cart on its way here this morning had an upset in one of the creeks close by but fortunately little damage done. The road it appears to me from this on our course is much better than we have come over, if so we shall make good speed. I spell the remainder of today refreshing the animals. This creek is about eighty to ninety yards wide, very precipitous banks, and from fifty to sixty feet deep, with innumerable small creeks. About 400 yards from this, above us, a large creek leaves this one, heavily timbered and well-defined. Limestone crops out in many places. It is from fifty to seventy yards wide and from fifteen to thirty feet deep. It sweeps away to the west and south, close under some sand-ridges that are close by. Wind from south and west, very sultry.

There has been a good deal of rain here lately (and from the appearance of the country there has been none for some time previously). Nothing green except in the bed of the creek and the trees. The whole country looks as if it had been carefully ploughed, harrowed, and finally rolled, the farmer having omitted the seed. Two natives came into our camp at dark, apparently without any fear, and stayed with us for the night.

Friday, February 14.

Started at 8 a.m. On the west side of the creek Panbaera a large creek leaves it at about 400 yards from camp, and the ground heavy, with intense heat. I camped after a journey of fifteen and a half miles on same side of creek, close to a deep waterhole in the creek. Name of creek Toomathooganie. Immediately above the camp on opposite side of creek a large red sandhill comes right on to creek called Manganhoonie, from the top of which one gets an extensive view of such country as there is, the creek in the distance, north, it filling the valley with its timber bearing 340 degrees. On our way here today, about three miles from camp, pa.s.sed the remains of Burke's horse and saddle; they were recognised as his by camel dung being about the camp. No marks on any of the trees visible. Camel dung also close to our camp. Another of our best bullocks was obliged to be left, having been struck down with the sun as the other was a few days ago. Cart late in arrival at camp in consequence. One of our natives took French leave immediately after getting to camp; the other tried hard also but was too closely watched.

Sat.u.r.day, February 15.

Started some hands back to see if the bullock was still alive, if so and unable to travel, to kill him and have him jerked, and if dead to have him skinned. They brought back word that he was still alive and might get over it. Late getting ready to start owing to the uncertainty whether the bullock was to be jerked or not. Bullocks started at 10.35 a.m., and if I get feed must make a short day of it. If the road keeps as heavy as it has done since coming to this creek I shall have to abandon the cart, which for many reasons I shall regret. Wind north and disagreeable. Got to camp at five miles bearing 337 degrees. The heat so oppressive travelling completely out of the question. Will leave the cart and many sundries here. Seized with a violent attack of dysentery. Our remaining native quite broken-hearted at losing the other, shall be obliged to let him go this afternoon; it is a pity as he would have been of much service in giving me the names of the different waters and places which to someone in future might be of much use. However I may get another if I soon meet with other natives; but unfortunately at present, from the rain that has lately fallen, they have princ.i.p.ally left the creek and gone to the sandhills. Their habitations are very numerous on the creek so they must be pretty strong in number here. Lots of fish still in the holes; appear to be multa multa princ.i.p.ally. We got some from the two natives at our first camp on the creek, and lots of mussel sh.e.l.ls about their old fires.

Sunday, February 16.

In camp, very ill.

Monday, February 17.

In camp, very ill; still getting the gear ready for tomorrow, if I am able to start--pain slightly gone. Had the curiosity to weigh and found I had lost fourteen pounds in three days from the violence of the attack; when I left town I weighed fifteen stone eleven pounds, now I weigh exactly twelve stone. Clear but excessively hot with occasionally a little thunder and some showers this morning, and it looked as if we were going to have it heavy but it pa.s.sed off.

Tuesday, February 18.

With one thing and the other, and one of the bullocks absent, was late at starting. Pain gone today but excessively weak. Started at 11.30, course 340 degrees; flooded box-cracked land for one mile. At seven and a half miles further pa.s.sing over bare mud plain dest.i.tute of any vegetation, with a couple of sandhills and the main creek beyond them to the east. On this distance half a mile off is the bed of a large creek flowing to the south and west, no water at present in it. Close to this point one of our best bullocks was struck dead with the heat of the sun walking leisurely along carrying nothing; the rest of the party were much in advance and, as it was such a fearfully hot day and not a drop of water near, nothing could be done with the flesh of him unfortunately. At five miles further came to a large deep creek flowing westward, no water in it. Up to this point was to be seen in the distance westward apparent breaks in the sandhills with box timber in each; and I have no doubt many of those places form into large creeks by the terrific overflow of this main creek. At one mile further on (340 degrees) crossing this creek on to top of sandhill, changed course to 38 degrees, the creek from the sandhill bearing considerably eastward. At two and a quarter miles over flooded flats and at some rainwater where I afterwards camped; at two miles further struck the creek but not a drop of water; searched up and down for some distance but none to be found, so returned to the rainwater two miles back from the creek, where fortunately there was sufficient for all the animals. The flood here, when it does occur, fills the whole valley between the sandhills on either side of the creek, and after such occasions must appear a splendid country; but at present no country could possibly look more desolate. This cannot possibly be Eyre's Creek as it is much larger in the first place, and seems to bear away too much to the east ever to be a continuation of Sturt's Eyre's Creek. Traces of Burke's camels and horses are still to be seen on the creek; I fancy on his return from the Gulf. I feel very ill this evening, hardly able to sit in the saddle.

Wednesday, February 19.

Sent Mr. Hodgkinson and Middleton off up the creek to search for water, and Middleton to return after travelling about eight miles if successful in finding a supply to enable us to proceed further up the creek; Hodgkinson to go further on and examine the creek and return in the afternoon to where it was arranged we should camp. Middleton returned about noon with the intelligence that about seven miles up there was abundance of water in the creek for our immediate wants; so we started late in the afternoon as the distance was short and the day fearfully hot, bearing of 350 degrees for four and a half miles, the creek appearing to bear too much east, change course to 360 degrees for two and a quarter miles further, and it getting late changed course straight on for the creek, bearing of 37 1/2 degrees for three-quarters of a mile, where I struck the creek with a little salt water in its bed; down the creek from this about half a mile is the water, and where we afterwards camped but without knowing (in the absence of Middleton, who was seized with a violent illness on the way here and did not get to the camp at all during the night). I went up the creek for two and a half miles, found it dry, and returned to water and camped.

Thursday, February 20.

Camp on east side of creek where the latter is upwards of 180 yards wide and about 80 feet deep, western banks very inaccessible, the east bank where we have camped less so with immense polygonum bushes. Very unwell still; we were not aware of the cause of Middleton's detention with the camels, on which was the food, till he and Davis made their appearance after the morning had somewhat advanced, when they arrived and explained the cause; Middleton was very ill indeed of dysentery and could scarcely crawl.

Friday, February 21.

In camp; I feel a little better, Middleton still very unwell; miserable camp but can't help it.

Sat.u.r.day, February 22.

Started Mr. Hodgkinson and Bell out on the west side of the creek to examine ranges that appear stony in the distance, and ascertain if this creek receives any tributary from the westward of north-north-west likely to be Eyre's Creek, as there is no doubt this is not it, and return by this creek to ascertain how the water lies in it. I am much better today and Middleton appears to be on the change for the better; wind south with a few clouds.

Sunday, February 23.

Middleton improving; I feel much better, so much so that, as there is a cool breeze from the south, I am induced to ride out to the eastward to examine the country between this and the stony hills visible from here on the east side of the creek; went four and a half miles course 135 degrees, over flooded flats and a couple of sandhills, from top of the highest sandhill changed course to 113 degrees for two and a quarter miles to top of another larger sandhill, pa.s.sing one other in my course, then on bearing of 15 degrees for six and three-quarter miles over flooded flats with a few smaller sandhills, but soon terminate on both sides of my course; the current over this tract of flat being to the south of east, then three-quarters of a mile on bearing of 15 degrees over one sandhill to top of rocky hill, from which the flooded flat I have just pa.s.sed gathers together in the distance to a creek, and goes off on course of 155 degrees, and no doubt is the feeder of the waters now in the creek to south and east of our present camp namely Barrawarkanya, Marroboolyooroo, Cadityrrie, Meincounyannie, and Gnappa Muntra; then two and a quarter miles on bearing of 10 degrees to top of sandy and stony hill, with four or five mallee trees and a few other shrubs; marked one of the mallee trees. From this hill the creek pa.s.sed end of table-topped stone range on bearing from six to nine miles distant north-west and round northward to east, peaks and hills of stone with intervening flats, some of earth, others of stone, are visible as far as eye can reach; from this hill our present camp bears about 227 1/2 degrees and distant about eleven and a half miles. In the evening Mr.

Hodgkinson and Bell returned having examined the hilly country, but could find no tributary joining the creek; saw water up some distance that will suit our purpose so far. I will in a day or two ride over to Eyre's Creek and ascertain if either of the northern search parties have got there yet, and deposit a memorandum for them there and see if a route be practicable westward to Stuart's country now, or if I shall have to wait for more rain: although we had such nice rain coming over the desert the excessive heat has absorbed most of it, and you may travel a day without seeing a drop; intend starting up the creek in the morning. Middleton much better. Mr. Hodgkinson saw one native and his lubra up the creek but had little conversation.

Monday, February 24.

Camped; the bullocks not found till too late to start. Mr. Hodgkinson tendered his resignation as second in command which I accepted, and from this date he holds no longer any position as officer in the party under my guidance. Poole had a sun-stroke during the day whilst out after the horses, but by cold application to the head he soon recovered.

Tuesday, February 25.

Rather late getting the animals ready for a start, the feed being so scant; started on bearing of 40 degrees, on same side of creek as that on which we were encamped, over flooded flats and sandy terminations: at five and three-quarter miles pa.s.sed along and crossed a large deep creek in which there was a little water and a number of native wurlies. Course of creek nearly north and south, at seven and a quarter miles further over some abrupt sandhills, the summits of which had an almost perpendicular wall of pure drift sand, varying from two and a half feet to five feet in height and very difficult for the animals to get over, and flooded flats on same bearing; then changed course to 34 degrees for four and a half miles over similar country mixed with stone hills and flats, the creek being a long way to the west but now gradually approaching our course; then changed course to 14 degrees for one and one-sixth of a mile to creek, where luckily we found sufficient water for all purposes and in the bed of the creek a better supply of green gra.s.s for the animals than they have had for some time. Cloudy, wind north-east. The bullocks have not arrived tonight.

Wednesday, February 26.

Cloudy and threatening for rain; wind north-east. At 9.30 a.m. one of the men from the bullocks arrived and informed me that one of the pack bullocks had dropped and was killed to endeavour to make some use of his flesh. This is the same that had the sunstroke first but was apparently recovering; and another of our very best and generally quietest had that day bucked so much in endeavouring to get rid of his saddle that he disabled himself, fell down, and could not be got up; the remainder of the bullocks went off to feed but there he was where he fell in the morning beside his pack. Immediately on hearing of this disaster I forwarded some hands and packhorses out to convey to camp what was thought to be of any use. It has commenced raining and what little will be got cannot, I am afraid, be cured, as there is every appearance of a continuation of rain and there will be no chance of drying the flesh as we have no salt. If it was fair weather I would kill at once the disabled also, and have his flesh dried; but it would be no use at present and he may be able to get up after a spell and come in this length when, if the weather prove favourable, I will have him killed and jerked. The remainder of the bullocks (seven) arrived during the day and the detachment of the party with what was thought of use of the dead bullock; but I question much about its keeping as now it is raining steadily, but we will use as much of it as we can and save the sheep. None of our journeys appear to give the sheep the slightest inconvenience and they are as ready to commence their journey in the morning as the man that attends to them; in fact no party ought ever to go out exploring in the summer months without them. During the day I rode out to the tops of some of the stony ranges to get a view of the upward course of the creek; it seems to go off somewhere on a bearing of 50 degrees but I fancy will soon turn more to the north. It is quite astonishing to see the patches of beautiful green gra.s.s on the slopes of the stone hills in the small watercourses that fall down their sides; in fact the only thing like feed I have seen for some time, and what little there is, is in the bed of the creeks. The creek here has an anabranch that leaves it about half a mile above and joins again about half a mile below; width of island half a mile.

Thursday, February 27.

Rained heavily and steadily all night from the east-north-east; the ground at daylight a perfect bog. From the severity of the night some of our sheep got adrift but were recovered during the day. The creek, nine-tenths of which was yesterday dry, is now running a strong stream and momentarily increasing. Got all the animals across to this side during the forenoon as the rain appeared likely to continue; and now that it has set in will most likely inundate all the low flats and completely put a stop to further progress up the creek until the ground hardens a little. At such times the only place of safety hereabouts are the sandhills or stony hills; the latter I prefer, and will shift to one in the event of the rain continuing another night as steadily as it did last night as there, and there only, is there any feed to be had for our animals. They have fallen off considerably of late from the hot weather and the scantiness of good feed. As soon as they were taken over the creek they were taken out to one of the stone-ridges and there left in tolerable feed but not very abundant. The water is lying all over the flat in sheets and the creek rising rapidly. It must have been a very long time since this part of the country has been similarly visited with rain, as the country generally, the flats princ.i.p.ally, had not any vegetation upon them of any useful kind. As I said before the stone hills, or rather the small creeks on their slopes, are the only places where there was any feed excepting in the bed of the creek, and now that last supply was gone, as the creek by this afternoon was swimmable.

Friday, February 28.

Raining all night but not quite so heavily; still very considerably. Our camp is like a stockyard in the southern districts much used in the wet weather--over our boots in mud and water; although on some of the highest ground just about here pounds of mud and rubbish adhere to your boots every time you lift your feet. Creek considerably more swollen; and as every place is so saturated with water and mud will not move out of this till tomorrow morning. In the meantime, in hopes that it will clear up a little and make the ground firm enough to bear the weight of the animals.

It is well we left the cart or we should not have been able to move it from this, and every probability of its being carried away by the flood now rapidly approaching. We are now in that position and not far from the place where Captain Sturt dreaded being overtaken by rain. It is fearful to travel over but must make the best of it. I am very glad indeed that we have been favoured with such a copious supply; although for a short time it may prevent my travelling it will be the means of enabling me to move about afterwards as I may think fit. I wish I had a couple of months' more rations of flour, tea, and sugar, as then I could thoroughly examine the country in this quarter; as it is I will do the best I can.

If this creek carries me much more to the north instead of going to the east as it now does I think it will take a run through to the Albert River; and if the steam-sloop Victoria, Captain Norman, has not sailed from there I think I will be able to get flour or biscuits in sufficient quant.i.ty to carry me back, and enable me to do all, or nearly so, that was required of me by the South Australian Government; if not at the Albert I will only be obliged to live the princ.i.p.al part of the return journey on animal food and what vegetables we may find from time to time--it won't be a very hard case but much more pleasant and agreeable if it can be obtained. It is very boisterous. Rain and wind from east-south-east. The creek rising steadily; by the morning it will be nearly or quite on a level with the way by which I shall have to travel in the morning for the high ground. It has a current of about three miles an hour, or similar to that of the Murray, for which reason I am led to believe that its chief source is some considerable distance away, although it receives innumerable tributaries on both sides above and below where I now am. The rain as it falls upon these stone-clad hills runs off at once into the small creeks, thence into larger ones on the flat land, then into the main creek after filling the waterholes in their respective courses. Towards evening it looks very dark and again threatens much for a quant.i.ty of rain; if so by morning we shall have the creek high.

Sat.u.r.day, March 1.

At first blush of dawn wind from same quarter (east-south-east). Rained heavily all night and to my astonishment, instead of the creek rising as usual (three and a half inches per hour) it was now rising five and a half inches and hourly increasing. Although the creek has in many places overflown its banks, and consequently a much broader channel, we are completely surrounded with at least five feet of water in the shallowest place that we can escape from this by. After a breakfast by daybreak the animals are immediately sent for and, as the men start for them, drive before them our sheep for more than half a mile through a strong current, and swimming three-fourths of the time; they went over splendidly and were left on a piece of dry land until our camels and horses came and removed the stores etc., which fortunately they did with not very many of the things getting wet. The camels being brought in and loaded and out to where the sheep were first, I had two of them unloaded and sent back to carry to the dry ground any of the perishable articles such as ammunition, flour, tea, and sugar, which they brought in safety; for had it been put on the horses as usual, and not being able to keep them on our track, the probability is they would have to swim and completely destroy the ammunition and injure the other stores; the camels acted famously and from their great height were as good as if we had been supplied with boats. After getting all onto dry land they were repacked and went on to a very good camp, now that there is water, on a sandhill about two and three-quarters to three miles distant in an east-south-east direction through a good deal of water and almost impa.s.sable flats--the sheep even sinking up to their bodies in the mud; however we got them all over safely by early in the afternoon. Still showery and how long we shall be weather-bound quite uncertain; however there is plenty of feed for the animals here which is a great comfort, and what is more they are in perfect safety, as well as we are ourselves, from the boisterous state of the weather. Whilst on the creek in the morning, had there been much difficulty in getting the animals, we should have had to hoist the things up into trees, and constructed a raft of dead timber, and rafted them off to dry land, which would have been a great deal of trouble. Squally still; wind continues from same quarter. Towards evening a great portion of the flat is being covered with water from the creek, beyond the creek there is nothing visible but lines of trees, marking the course of the lesser channels, and stone hills, all else is a perfect sea. We were very fortunate to be caught in it where we were; had we been caught thus in making this creek, or a day's stage up it, to a certainty we should all have been washed away, or what would have been just as bad, be perched on a small island of sand with all the animals round us and nothing but starvation staring us in the face--as on most of the sand-rises down near the creek there was no vegetation of any consequence upon them.

Sunday, March 2.

In camp; light showers occasionally. The side creeks from the hills running themselves out and the upper parts drying; the line of creek visible in the distance through the trees during all its course now in view, and the flats considerably more covered. Thunder and lightning from north to north-east.

Monday, March 3.

Wind east-south-east; as usual squally. On turning in last night it had every appearance of rain and did rain steadily for some time but gradually held up for the night, and appeared as if we were to have a dry change to have all the things that got wet perfectly dry again. I shall get all the horses shod here as, from the soft nature of the flats for some time to come, they will be unfit to travel over the approaching stony country. Intend searching for the bullock that fell down the other day and ascertaining whether he is dead or alive; if alive to get him brought on here; and if much disabled to have him killed and jerked as soon as the weather clears and the sun shines out sufficiently for that purpose. Found bullock within a quarter of a mile of where he was left, able just to stand and no more; I will send out tomorrow afternoon and have him killed where he is and his flesh brought in here the morning following for the purpose of jerking it; he appears good beef. The country boggy; in the afternoon rode down to the creek through a good deal of water to ascertain the state of the flood, and had to swim some distance to get to the main creek; when I got there I was glad to find that not only had it, for the present, arrived at its height, but had gone down nearly nine inches. The last time this country was flooded it was about seven feet higher (perpendicularly) than it was this time, and the sand and stone hills were flooded for several feet up their sides from their base. Wind still from south-east by east, with an occasional slight pa.s.sing shower, but symptoms of clearing up. This country is perfectly infested with wild dogs; and fortunately for us it is that I happened to have some strychnine, it plays great havoc amongst them; so voracious are they that when one of their fellows die the others fall to and devour him; by this means many are destroyed. Middleton recovering but very slowly; he continues to have a very troublesome diarrhoea--aggravated no doubt by being obliged for the last few days to be nearly always wet; sometimes even to swim clothes and all, and remaining in that condition till the camp was brought here and fixed; I should be sorry if anything were to happen to him as he is an invaluable man in such a party as this.

Tuesday, March 4.

Wind a little more east; shod some of the horses yesterday and some this morning. Four of the party after dinner started to kill the bullock; camp there and return in the morning with the meat when cold. I with Poole rode out to some high stone hills eastward to endeavour to get a view of the creek and ascertain, if possible, from which quarter it princ.i.p.ally flows. After getting to top of the highest, from which one gets very extensive view to the north-east, there was a slight haze that prevented me positively ascertaining its actual course; there is very heavy timber on a bearing of 35 degrees, and appears surrounded by hills. The haze was so bad that I could not be certain; however I must travel in that direction first and trust that it suddenly turns round to the north; from this last point to a point 20 degrees west of north is a perfect sea, nothing but isolated trees showing above the water; I found the ground exceedingly soft, almost impa.s.sable in many places. On the tableland, at the foot of the high stone-hills I ascended, are lines of creeks forming the drainage of the country, thickly timbered with myall, and (for the place) a considerable quant.i.ty of good gra.s.s; abundance of water lying on the top of the tableland, with seagulls, ducks, cranes, etc., about and on the basins; seven black swans pa.s.sed over the camp in their flight on bearing of 335 degrees, no doubt to some lake in that direction. Some few days ago not a bird was to be seen scarcely, but a few kite, crows, and galahs; now the whole country seems to be alive with ducks of various kinds, macaws, corellas, c.o.c.katoo parrots, and innumerable small birds.

Wednesday, March 5.

Wind light from north-east and every appearance of a beautiful day; the country beginning to have quite a green appearance, and the valleys being covered with lilies in full bloom, birds singing and chirping all around as if in spring. I am quite shut out for the present from Eyre's Creek; so will not attempt it. At midday the party arrived with the meat of the bullock and shortly after, when cutting it up for jerking, the head of the axe accidentally flew off and inflicted a severe wound in the knee of Maitland our cook; I hope it won't disable him long, although it is deep and in a nasty place. Got all the meat jerked by evening and trust we may have dry weather to have it properly preserved; lots of bones and sc.r.a.ps, of which we shall make soup.

Thursday, March 6.

Wind more to the north and every appearance of a dry day; busy shoeing the horses although they make a slow and sorry work of it.