Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900 Part 22

Sat.u.r.day, July 27th.

Princess Louise of Wales and Fife were married this morning in the small chapel at Buckingham Palace. Very few people were asked, no diplomats except Falbe, Danish Minister, who is a great favourite at Court, and asked always. The streets, especially Piccadilly, were crowded with people. We had to go round by Belgrave Square and Buckingham Palace to get to Marlborough House. We were invited at 2 o'clock to see the bride and the presents. The wedding party drove up just as we arrived. Fife's coach, dark green with green and gold liveries, was very handsome. The Princess of Wales looked radiant, and the bride charming--beautifully dressed and just pale enough to be interesting. The King of Greece and Crown Prince of Denmark were both there. The presents were beautiful--every imaginable thing in diamonds and silver. The Prince and Princess's tiara very handsome--also Fife's. There was a buffet and tea in the garden, also in the drawing-rooms; and we waited to see the young couple start. They looked very happy and smiling. Their carriage was very handsome, with four black horses and an outrider. Everyone cheered and threw rice after them. They started with a Royal escort, but at the top of the park Fife sent it back, and they made their entry into Sheen in his carriage only. They said he made a condition that there should be no lady-in-waiting, that his wife should be d.u.c.h.ess of Fife only; but of course she can never lose her rank. None but Amba.s.sadors were asked to the reception at Marlborough House--no other diplomats.

July 30th.

We had our last dinner this season--musical and all Italians, Tosti, Vinci, and Picolellis. Mme. de Florian came in late with her dinner guests, among others the d.u.c.h.esse de Richelieu, who is very fond of music. Tosti is delightful once he gets to the piano, sings (with no voice) and plays whatever one wants--his own music, anybody's, and always so simply. It was very warm. We all sat and stood on the balcony when we were not playing and singing.

_To G. K. S._

#Hatfield#, January 8, 1891.

We came down last night for dinner. It was very cold, snow and ice in London, and skating everywhere. We are not a very large party--the family, some of Lord Salisbury's secretaries, Casa Laiglesia (just made Amba.s.sador--very happy. Spain had only a _Minister_ here till now), the Duke and d.u.c.h.ess of Newcastle, etc. After dinner the older members of the party played whist, and the young ones danced in the great hall.

This time we have King James I.'s rooms, an enormous bed (with a Royal crown on the top) where he really slept. We have been out all day; the gentlemen went off early to shoot, and I got down about 12. I found some of the young women, Ladies Cranborne and Northcote, in the hall and we decided we would go and skate. It was bitterly cold, but no wind, and the pond is not far, just at the end of the terrace. There was a little wooden house on the edge where we put on our skates, and plenty of chairs and canes. Ladies Northcote and Gwendoline Cecil skate very well.

Lady Salisbury came down to the pond, took a broom from one of the numerous sweepers, and swept hard to keep herself warm. After lunch I went for a sleigh ride with Lady Salisbury in a pretty little one-horse sleigh she had bought at the Exhibition. It was very good going in the park, but we b.u.mped occasionally going across the fields. To-night we broke up rather early; we were all tired with the first day's skating, and the men with their shooting.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Lord Salisbury From a photograph by Weston & Son Dover]

Friday.

It has been again a beautiful winter's day, and we have skated all the afternoon until dark. Lady Salisbury came again with her broom and swept vigorously. It seems many doctors recommend sweeping now for women who need exercise and cannot ride or walk. We tried hard to make Casa Laiglesia come down to the pond, but he refused absolutely--that was not at all his idea of pleasure. We spent some time in the library looking over some of the old ma.n.u.scripts of the time of Queen Elizabeth and King Philip of Spain, and we saw him taking a short, very short turn on the terrace in the sun, wrapped up so as to be almost "meconnaissable."

#London#, January 18th.

It is still very cold--the Serpentine is quite frozen, and quant.i.ties of people skating. The ice is very bad, rather like a ploughed field, but it is amusing to see all the people. We have been this afternoon to Wimbledon, and there it was delightful. There was quite a large part reserved and beautifully smooth, belonging to a club; so Comte de St.

Genys (one of the secretaries), who was with us, sent in his card, saying he was there with the French Amba.s.sadress; and they were most civil, brought us chairs, and begged us to come back whenever we liked.

We saw some beautiful fancy skating, both men and women. We skated afterward a little on the big lake to see the people. It was a beautiful day, and a very pretty sight, quite like a Dutch picture.

I was interrupted by a visit from Mr. Bryce. He came really to ask about you and to know if you would stay on at Ala.s.sio. He spoke so warmly and admiringly of Schuyler that it was a pleasure to hear him. He said he was certainly the cleverest, most cultivated American he had ever seen, that he had never met anyone who knew so many things well. He couldn't conceive how any Government that had such a man to place could have let any party feeling prevent them from giving him a prominent place, in their own interest.

#Albert Gate#, Thursday, February 19th.

We have had a funny day. There was a sale of horses, hunters princ.i.p.ally, at Cricklewood, a place just outside of London, where they have very good horses. We have been there several times with Deichmann, who has always fine horses, and have bought two or three ourselves. I am looking for a saddle horse, so W. and I drove out the other day, and I tried two which I liked very much (there is a riding-school where one can try). Then Newman, the head man, rode them over some hurdles to show me how well they jumped. They promised to let us know when the sale would be, and yesterday sent word we must come to-day. I drove out with Hilda in her pony carriage. We drew up close to the ring and the auctioneer's stand and saw everything well. Her horses were taken out and we made ourselves as comfortable as we could with furs and couvertures. It was bitterly cold, with a high wind that cut one in two.

W. and Deichmann wandered about in the crowd. The collection of people was most amazing, horsey to a degree; horse dealers, trainers, jockeys, racing men and women--a few gentlemen here and there, not many. There was a champagne lunch going on at Newman's, but that we declined--so they brought us tea and excellent bread and b.u.t.ter to the carriage. The two horses I had tried were among the first and I hoped I should get one of them, but they brought much more than the dealers supposed they would. They looked extremely well when they were brought out first, galloped over the gra.s.s, and then jumping their hurdles beautifully, taking them easily in a long stride (of course they were beautifully handled, every point made the most of). W. made various bids, but when it got beyond a certain sum he wouldn't give any more, as it was a fancy price and could have gone up indefinitely. I was rather disappointed, as I had set my heart on the black horse. It was cold driving home in the teeth of the wind. We dined with the Deichmanns, with some of our colleagues, and everyone was discussing the Empress Frederick's visit to Versailles. Until then everything had gone most swimmingly, but of course all French people were "froisses" at that. I don't exactly understand her going. She is so intelligent, and had apparently realised quite well how difficult it would be for her ever to go to Paris. Years ago in Rome, where we met her almost every night, she told us she was so anxious to go to Paris, but she was afraid she could not manage it. She wanted very much to meet Renan--admired his books so much, and his great intelligence; and I think she would have been delighted with him. He was a charming talker on every subject, and so easy.

_To G.K.S._

#Albert Gate#, Tuesday, March 10, 1891.

We had an awful storm yesterday, a regular blizzard, and a terrible night in the Channel. One of the good boats, the Victoria, was out all night, not daring to land at either Dover or Calais. One of our young attaches was on board, bringing over despatches, and they say he looked green when he finally did arrive. The trains were snowed up everywhere, even between Folkestone and London, and the pa.s.sengers nearly frozen and starved. It seems incredible in such a short distance. The young men are generally rather eager to bring over despatches, but I rather think this one won't try it again, in winter at any rate. I am extraordinarily lucky in my crossings, because probably I am a good sailor. I go backward and forward in all seasons and always have good weather. The Florians have had some wonderful crossings, nine hours between Calais and Dover, both of them _tied_ in their chairs, and the chairs tied to the mast.

Thursday, March 12, 1891.

Yesterday we were at Windsor to dine and sleep. The party was small--Staal, the Russian Amba.s.sador, Lord Hartington, Sir Frederick Leighton, Lord and Lady Curzon, Countess Perponcher and Count Seckendorff in attendance on the Empress Frederick, and of course the regular members of the Queen's Household. Lady Antrim was in waiting. We a.s.sembled as usual in the long corridor close to the door by which the Royal party entered. We were all in black, as the Empress was there. The Queen and the Empress came in together. The Queen shook hands with me and the two Amba.s.sadors--the Empress with me only, bowing to the others.

She is still in deep mourning--her dress black (woollen stuff of some kind) covered with crepe, and a crepe veil arranged in a point, or sort of Mary Stuart cap, on the top of her head, and falling behind to the edge of her skirt. The corsage was a little open, and she had a splendid necklace of pearls, also a miniature of the Emperor Frederick set in diamonds fastened on the front of her bodice. The dress was very becoming--she looked very stately and graceful as she walked through the corridor. She gave her arm to the Queen, and they walked in first to the dining-room, the Empress sitting next to the Queen on her right. W.

followed with Princess Beatrice, sitting on the Queen's left; Staal with Princess Margaretta, and sat on the right of the Empress. Lord Hartington took me. The Queen talked a great deal to W.--the Empress joined in occasionally. They were both much interested in the Protestants in France, and wanted to know if the feeling was as strong as in the old days of Huguenots and Catholics. I think there is a very strong feeling, and it is rare when a French Protestant marries a Catholic--rarer still when they become Catholics.

The dinner is always quickly served, and the conversation nil. n.o.body talks except those who are next the Princesses. The cercle was, as usual, in the corridor between the two doors. The Queen stood a little, but not all the time. She spoke to me about Johannes Wolff--admired his playing so much. The Empress talked a long time to W., and spoke immediately about her visit to Paris and Versailles, which was rather awkward for him, as he regretted very much that she had gone. All the first part of her stay went so well. She told W. she had had nothing but respect, and even sympathy wherever she had been, and that she was much astonished and distressed when she saw the papers and found what a storm was raging in the press. The Queen said a few words to me about the visit, and seemed to think it was a radical demonstration against the Government. I answered vaguely that all radicals made mischief--it wasn't a very easy subject to discuss. The cercle was not very long--about three-quarters of an hour--and then the Court retired, the two Sovereigns going out as they came in, together. We finished the evening in the drawing-room, but broke up early. W. went off to smoke, and I had a nice hour in the beautiful little yellow salon. I had a splendid fire, quant.i.ties of candles (always my mania--I hate lamps, particularly in these days of petroleum), and was quite happy. Adelade was very eloquent over the style of the housekeeper's room, and was funny over Charles, our French footman, and his indignation at being excluded from the society of the valets and ladies' maids. W.'s man was ill, so he took the French footman, who has often done his service. That gentleman being in livery was considered one of the lower servants (sat some way below the salt) and when the swells (Adelade, of course, included) retired to the housekeeper's room for dessert and coffee he remained with the under servants. All these domestic arrangements are quite unheard of in France--any distinctions of that kind would set the whole establishment in a storm.

It was a cold night, snow lying thick on the ground, clouds dark and low, and the great towers looked grim and formidable. W. came in about 12--said the talk in the fumoir was pleasant. He likes Count Seckendorff very much, finds him intelligent and moderate and sensible in his opinions--like all men who have knocked about a great deal and who know, not only other countries but the _people_ of the country. After all, churches, and palaces, and picture galleries have a certain "resemblance," but people are different, and sometimes very interesting.

We came away this morning at 10.30. I did not see anyone except Lady Antrim, as I never go to the dining-room for breakfast. I was ready a little before the time, and wandered about the corridor a little, looking at all the pictures. I met Staal doing the same thing. There is so much to see.

It is a beautiful bright day, and Hyde Park looked very animated as we drove through. Everyone was waiting to see the Queen pa.s.s. She arrived about an hour after us, as there is a Drawing-room to-morrow. We had some music this afternoon--2 pianos, 8 hands--and we play rather well a splendid symphony of Brahms'--not at all easy. We dined with Mr. Henry Petre, one of the most soigne dinners in London. It is always pleasant at his house--they say it is because he is a bachelor, which is not very flattering to _us_, but I think it is true, I don't know why. As we were out we _went on_, as they say here, to Lady Aberdeen, who had a small dance, but did not stay very long, as it was rather a young company.

People always say there is nothing going on in London before the season, but we dine out every night and often have (I at least) something in the afternoon--a tea, or music. I don't believe anybody ever dines at home in London. The theatres are always crowded, quite as much as in Paris.

Hilda and I went the other night with Count Seckendorff to see "Charlie's Aunt," a ridiculous farce which is having a great success. He protested at first at our choice--would have preferred something more cla.s.sic, but he was perfectly amused (though protesting all the time).

The piece is absolutely stupid, but so well played that the house was in roars of laughter, and that is always infectious. The man who played the part of the maiden aunt was extraordinarily well got up. His black silk dress and mittens were lovely--he looked really a prim old spinster and managed his skirts so well.

Sat.u.r.day, April 4, 1891.

We lunched to-day with Ferdinand Rothschild to meet the Empress Frederick. We were a small party, princ.i.p.ally Diplomatists. The Deyms, Hatzfeldt, Soveral, Harry Whites, etc. The Empress came (punctually) with Countess Perponcher and Seckendorff. The lunch was very handsome, quickly served and very animated, everybody talked. I had Hatzfeldt on the other side (I sat between him and Rothschild) so I was quite happy--there is n.o.body I like so much to talk to. He is very clever, very entrain, speaks French beautifully and talks about anything--just enough "moqueur" to keep one's wits sharpened. We had a discussion as to what was the origin of "Mrs. Grundy." None of us knew. I must ask Jusserand, who will I am sure be able to tell us.

We were all dressed in black velvet, one would have thought it was a "mot d'ordre." The Empress is very easy and likes to talk. She asked me if I knew Deroulede, said she heard some of his poetry was charming. I told her the "Chants du Soldat" were delightful, but _I_ couldn't send them to her (they are all about the Franco-German War). One of the ladies, Mrs. White I think, said she would.

Tuesday, April 21, 1891.

We had a pleasant little dinner Sunday night for Wormser, the composer of "L'Enfant Prodigue," which has had an enormous success here. Wolff came too, and they played all the evening. I haven't seen the piece yet, so I was delighted to hear the music. I promised him I would go on Wednesday, my first free night.

Last night I went with Lady Northcote to the Opera; it was "Lohengrin"

with Miss Eames and the Reszkes. The girl looked beautiful, quite the patrician maiden, and sang very well; a little cold, but that was of less importance in that opera than in "Romeo and Juliet," which needs more pa.s.sion. The house was very full and she was much applauded. Jean de Reszke looked magnificent and sang divinely. What a voice it is, and how well he knows how to use it. I fancy Covent Garden is a much better salle to sing in than our great Paris Opera. The voices seem so far off there, and all the singers complain and get soon tired. W. came in late just as I did. He had had a delightful dinner at Mr. Murray's (the publisher) with Mr. Gladstone. He said Mr. G. was in great form, talking about everything: books, politics, theories, and always with a perfect knowledge of each subject expressed in beautiful English. He must have a marvellous memory.

_To H. L. K_.

#French Emba.s.sy#, June 6, 1891.

You will be amused, Dear, to hear that after all we have decided to have the children's comedy. The moment is not exactly propitious in the height of the London season when every instant is taken, but I think we can make something pretty, and Mdme. Thenard is very keen about it. We shall take the "Reine des Fees"--but very much changed, and parts added for every child--also a gavotte and a chorus. I saw some of the mammas, Countess Deym; Mdme. de Bille; Ladies Londonderry, Clanwilliam, etc., yesterday, and they will let me have their daughters. Thenard will direct the whole thing, with Count de St. Genys (Secretary of the French Emba.s.sy in London) as regisseur and also decorateur, as he has begun painting a charming decor (the interior of the bailiff's cottage). Mdme.

de Langhe will undertake the choeurs and lecons de diction, and I don't quite know yet whom we shall get for the gavotte, or how many children we must have. The dresses will be pretty--two sets--Marie Antoinette and all her ladies in powder--Trianon costumes--and peasants, market women, etc. Of course the boys are a difficulty. There are so few who are here of Francis's old friends--they are all at school. Thenard has a little friend (girl) whom she will dress as a Marquis--she says she will look the part very well. Francis is much excited--he is to be the cruel bailiff who takes all the money and everything else he can get from the poor peasants. St. Genys will see about his costume, and make a croquis from some picture of the period.

June 12, 1891.

We are all (except the Amba.s.sador) perfectly taken up with the comedie--and to-day we had our first repet.i.tion of the gavotte in the drawing-room. I hadn't thought of saying anything about the dancing to the young men, and it seems the "chancellerie" went nearly mad; their rooms being directly under the salons, they heard everything--the music beginning the same thing over and over again--and the heavy little feet that couldn't stay long on the tips of their toes. I had some trouble in finding a dancing-mistress--I thought first of the American who had that dancing cla.s.s here where all the children went, but she didn't seem to understand exactly what I wanted. Finally some one told me I had much better send for Mrs. Roffy--ballet-mistress at the Alhambra--who has sometimes arranged menuets and gavottes for "les femmes du monde"; so I wrote to her to come and see me. She knew exactly what I wanted, would undertake the whole thing--how many children--what sort of a dance--was most business-like--and we fixed the first repet.i.tion at once. There were about 20 children, of all ages and sizes, varying from 3 years to 14--Muriel White, Gay Edwardes and her brother, a little de Breunen, Elsa Deichmann, etc. Mrs. Roffy looked very nice. She is very tall, but rather graceful--she had a little black bag in which were her black silk stockings and pointed slippers, and asked if she might have a room to arrange herself--so Clarisse took charge of her. I took the piano--and most distracting it was--as no two of the children ever began their steps at the same time. It was amusing to see Mrs. Roffy. She moved extraordinarily gracefully for such a tall woman, and was so patient--holding up her dress, pointing her toes, and talking to them all the time--"Heads up, Dears--Heads up! Look at me--very proud, please." I should have given up in despair after a quarter of an hour.

All the little arms and legs went at wrong times in wrong directions, and no one seemed to have the slightest idea of time. She will give one or two private lessons to some of the very small ones.

Madame de Langhe, too, has her hands full with the chorus, "Vive la Reine"--but I think she must have some one behind the scenes to sing the solo, and then the children will come out strong in the chorus. The roles are all distributed--Bianca Deym--a tall handsome girl--is to be Marie Antoinette; and the various other Court ladies are Lady Helen Stewart (Lady Londonderry's daughter), Lady J. Meade (Lady Clanwilliam's daughter), Marguerite Phelps, Anna Lawrence, Elsa de Bille, etc. I think it will be pretty.

June 15, 1891.

Hilda and I have been half over London to-day for our stage scenes. We must have real ones representing a sort of wood where the market people have their stands, and the Queen and the ladies come to buy flowers--also sufficient s.p.a.ce for the gavotte. The man promises to send it all the day before, as the children must rehea.r.s.e at least once with the real scenes--for their entrees--that is always a little difficulty.

The bigger girls do all right, but the little ones rush in--speak very quickly--and _always_ to Thenard, who stands at one side--looking hard at her to see if they are doing right--and paying no attention whatever to Her Gracious Majesty Queen Marie Antoinette. Muriel White is very good, very deliberate, very careful, and taking all the French nuances and intonations very well. Gay Edwardes, too, is very good--her French is pretty and easy, she learnt it so young in Paris. One of the others (I forget which one) was having a private lesson in a corner with Francis, who was trying to make her roll her Rs in a proper French fashion. She had a complaint to make of her garden--all about "carottes"

et "giroflees," and the sentences had a true British ring. Francis is very important, takes himself quite "au serieux," and is most interested in the proper diction of all the young ladies. I sat some time in the drawing-room while St. Genys was painting his scenes. We had various visitors (even W., who was very complimentary over the decor), tea, and Thenard to settle about a rampe of flowers and tapestry curtain.

Sat.u.r.day, June 20, 1891.

I am rather lazy this morning and feel as if I had suddenly nothing to do. The comedie went off very well yesterday and was a pretty sight.

Until the last moment I was doubtful, as we had so many peripeties. At the dress rehearsal on Thursday, Bianca Deym (Marie Antoinette) was so hoa.r.s.e she could hardly speak. The girl looked very handsome and distinguished in powder (tres bien coiffee) and one of her mother's handsome Court dresses, but Thenard wouldn't let her speak--said all her part herself, and told Bianca to pay great attention to her voice and gestures. Toupet (Francis), the cruel bailiff, had such a stiff neck and sore throat that he could hardly move--so he was rubbed hard with Elliman's Embrocation and sent to bed as soon as the repet.i.tion was over. His costume was very good--coat and long waistcoat of prune cloth--lace jabot--tricorne and gold-headed cane lent by one of his English cousins--a wig of course--which quite changed him. The girls looked charming--I don't know which was the most becoming--the powder and Court dress or the short skirts and high caps of the paysannes. The gavotte went very well. The small children in front and the bigger ones behind. I never could have believed that anyone could evolve anything like a gavotte from the whirling chaos of arms and legs that was my first impression. M. Lecomte (Secretary of the Emba.s.sy), who is a very good musician, was at the piano, and marked the time very exactly, which was absolutely necessary for such young performers.

Various friends and Mammas came to look on and criticise--which was what we wanted--and all were pleased. Thenard and St. Genys were quite delighted--and as they have seen it from the first and noted the improvement, that was rea.s.suring. Henry Edwardes came, much amused and slightly astonished at his children's performance (the boy was so good).