Letters of a Diplomat's Wife, 1883-1900 Part 14

We are commanded to Windsor this evening to dine and sleep. It is inconvenient, as we have to put off a dinner of twenty-one people. The chef is tearing his hair, as of course all his dinner is ready. When my maid came to pack the trunks she had rather a fl.u.s.tered look; I thought it was on account of the Windsor visit. Not at all. It seems a friend of Juteau's (our chef), who is also a chef in one of the great houses, heard that we were going to Windsor, so he wrote him a note telling him that his wife (my maid) must be well dressed and take a low or open bodice to Windsor for their dinner. The maid was most indignant for being supposed not to know what was right, and answered the note saying, "she had accompanied her mistress to every court in Europe, and knew quite well how to dress herself."

#Windsor Castle#, March 1, 1884.

Our dinner last night went off very well, and was not so stiff as I had expected. We took the 6 o'clock train from Paddington, and found the Russian Amba.s.sador, Baron Mohrenheim, and his wife at the station. At Windsor two or three carriages and footmen were waiting, but no equerry as at Sandringham. We were driven to a side door at the Castle, where two servants in plain black were waiting, who showed us at once to our rooms. We had a pretty apartment furnished in yellow satin, with beautiful pictures, princ.i.p.ally portraits; a small salon with a bedroom on each side, bright fires burning, and a quant.i.ty of candles. They brought us tea, beautifully served all on silver, with thin bread and b.u.t.ter (no m.u.f.fins or toast), and almost at the same moment Sir John Cowell, Master of the Household, came to pay us a visit. He told us who the party was, said dinner was at 8.45, that a page would come and tell us at 8.30, and that we should a.s.semble in the great corridor. Quite punctually at 8.30 they notified us, and we proceeded down the long corridor, W. in black breeches and stockings (no order, as he hadn't the Legion d'Honneur, and couldn't wear a foreign order), I in white brocaded velvet and diamonds. We found the party a.s.sembled, the Mohrenheims; Lord and Lady Kimberley; Nigra, Italian Amba.s.sador; Lady Churchill (who was in waiting); Lord Kenmare (Lord Chamberlain), and Lord Dalhousie (Lord in waiting) and one or two other men. We moved up to a door just opposite the dining-room, and about 9 the Queen came with the d.u.c.h.ess of Edinburgh and Princess Beatrice. She shook hands with me and Madame Mohrenheim; bowed very graciously to all the others, and pa.s.sed at once into the dining-room alone. Mohrenheim followed with the d.u.c.h.ess of Edinburgh; Nigra with Princess Beatrice; W. with Madame Mohrenheim; and Kimberley took me. The table was handsome, covered with gold and silver plate, quant.i.ties of servants in red livery, plain black, and two Highlanders in costume behind the Queen's chair.

The conversation was not very animated. The Queen herself spoke little, and the English not at all--or so low that one couldn't understand them--however, my Amba.s.sador couldn't stand that long, so he began talking most cheerfully to the d.u.c.h.ess of Edinburgh about Moscow, Kertch, and antiquities of various kinds, and as the d.u.c.h.ess is clever and inclined to talk, that corner became more lively. I can't say as much for our end. I think most Englishmen are naturally shy, and the presence of Royalty (the Queen above all) paralyses them.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Windsor Castle]

After dinner, which was quickly served, we all went out as we had come in, and the Queen held a short cercle in the corridor, in the small s.p.a.ce between the two doors. She stood a few minutes talking to the two Princesses, while she had her coffee (which was brought for her alone on a small tray), and then crossed over to Madame Mohrenheim and talked a little. She sat down almost immediately, Madame Mohrenheim remaining standing. She then sent for me, Lord Dalhousie summoning us all in turn.

She was very gracious, saying that she could not yet stand or walk, which worried her very much--asked me a great deal about my life in London, did I find everything very different from Paris, and had I found little friends and a school for Francis? The conversation was not easy.

She sat on rather a low chair, and I standing before her had to bend down always. She was dressed in black, with her usual little cap and veil, opal necklace, diamonds and orders. While she was talking to the others the two Princesses moved about and talked to us. It was pleasant--the whole cercle lasted about an hour. The Queen and Princesses retired together, all shaking hands with me and Madame Mohrenheim, and bowing to the others. We finished the evening in the drawing-room with the household, staying there about half an hour, and a little after eleven we broke up. W. has gone off to smoke--at the extreme end of the Castle, as the Queen hates smoke and perhaps doesn't know that anyone dares smoke here--and I am writing with about twelve tall wax candles on my table.

It is a bright moonlight night, and the Castle looks enormous. A great ma.s.s of towers, vaulted gateways, walled courts, and the beautiful gra.s.s slopes that look quite green in the moonlight. The lights at the far end seem like twinkling tapers. It is certainly a magnificent Royal residence.

Sat.u.r.day, March 1884.

We got back for lunch, leaving the Castle at 10.30. We breakfasted with the household at 9.30; no ceremony, people coming in as they liked, and sitting down anywhere. We loitered a little in the corridor until it was time to start, looking at the pictures, portraits, and the curious cabinets and the bits of old furniture which are interesting.

_To H. L. K._

#Albert Gate#, March 14, 1884.

To-day was our first Drawing-room, and we turned out in great force, I had three secretaries' wives. We had out our two carriages. W. and I in the gala carriage with Count de Florian, Secretary of Emba.s.sy, Hubert driving us, and two English giants behind; then came the landau with merely one footman on the box, all in full dress livery, blue breeches, silk stockings, and powdered wigs. There was a great display of troops, and a crowd waiting on the pavement outside the door at the Emba.s.sy to see us start. There are no porte-cocheres in London, so you go straight out into the street to get your carriages, and a carpet is kept in the hall, which is rolled down the steps every time you go out. The streets were crowded as we came near Buckingham Palace.

We entered the Palace by a side entrance, leaving our wraps in one of the rooms, and went up the great staircase, which was a pretty sight.

Quant.i.ties of plants and flowers and a long procession of women with handsome Court dresses, splendid tiaras, and a few men in uniform--of course women preponderate. We walked through various rooms all filled with Court functionaries, officers in uniform, and finally arrived in the large salon opening into the Throne-Room where all the Corps Diplomatique and English people who had the entree were a.s.sembled.

Countess Granville, wife of the Foreign Secretary, Earl Granville, looked most distinguished, tall and fair, in black with a handsome tiara. Countess Karolyi, Austrian Amba.s.sadress, was beautiful in her Hungarian costume and splendid jewels. The Russians also most picturesque in their national court dress, red velvet trains heavily embroidered in gold, white veils spangled with gold, and the high head-dress (kakoshnik) in velvet studded with jewels.

When the doors were opened the Foreign Secretary and his wife pa.s.sed first and took up their station close beside the Princess of Wales, to name the members of the Corps Diplomatique. Then the Master of Ceremonies gave his hand to the Doyenne--the Austrian Amba.s.sadress--her train was spread out by two pages,--and they entered the Throne-Room, making low bows or curtseys on the threshold. One makes 3 curtseys; one on entering the room, one half way and a third as one gets close to the Princess. We followed quickly, I with my ladies coming directly behind the Russians. The Court was small--Princess of Wales, Princess Beatrice, Prince of Wales and Duke of Cambridge. The Princess, a charming graceful figure dressed in dark velvet with coloured embroideries and jewels and orders; Princess Beatrice in mauve, and the two Princes in uniform of English Field Marshal. The Princesses shook hands with us chefesses and bowed to the young ladies--the Princes the same. There was no sort of trouble about the train; they are down only for a moment, just as you pa.s.s the Queen or Princess--a chamberlain picks them up most adroitly, puts them in your arm, and one never gives them a thought. As soon as we had pa.s.sed the group of Princes we turned into a deep window recess and stood there until the end. That was most amusing, as we faced the door and saw everyone come in. It amused and interested me extremely to see how differently people pa.s.sed. Most of the women looked well, their fresh, fair skins standing the test--and a pretty severe one it is--of full dress, white feathers and veil at three in the afternoon of a cold March day. Many had been dressed since 12, first sitting a long time in their carriages, and then waiting a long time in the drawing-room at the Palace, until their turns came. They were generally timid and nervous when they pa.s.sed--some bracing themselves as if they were facing a terrible ordeal, some racing past very quickly, forgetting to take their trains in their arms, and pursued down the room by an impatient chamberlain, and some, especially the debutantes, making carefully and conscientiously the low regulation curtsey to each Prince, and trembling with shyness. When the last person had pa.s.sed the Court turned and made us bows and curtseys--the Princess' half curtsey is charming--and it was over. We all got away quickly.

The great hall was an interesting sight, filled with women and uniforms of every kind, and a band playing in the great square. We had the usual "Drawing-room tea" to show our dresses. I wore the blue embroidered Court dress I had made for Moscow, with blue feathers and diamond tiara.

All the English women wear white feathers and veils, which naturally does not suit everyone, particularly if they are not well put on. Some of the coiffures were almost eccentric, one rather high feather, and a long one very low running down one's back. The young men were pleased, as they had many compliments for our carriages and liveries. We were the only Emba.s.sy that had out two carriages.

_To G. K. S._

#London#, May, 1884.

We went to the Derby this morning with Lord Cork. I had never been, and W. not for many years. We went down by train--(special, with the Prince and racing coterie) and I enjoyed the day. We were in the Jockey Club box, and it was a curiosity to see the crowd on the lawn, packed tight, and every description of person, all engrossed with the race, and wildly interested in the horses. There was almost a solemn silence just before the Derby was run. This time there was a tie, which is rare, I believe.

It was rather amusing driving home from Victoria, as all the balconies along the road were decorated, and crowded with people, but I believe the great fashion of driving down had almost disappeared. Nearly everyone now goes down by train.

#London#, June 28, 1884.

This morning H. and I went to the second meet of the Coaching Club on D.'s coach. It was a pretty sight; a bright beautiful morning and Hyde Park crowded with equipages, riders, and pedestrians--quant.i.ties of pretty women all much dressed, princ.i.p.ally in white, with hats trimmed with flowers, and light parasols. The tops of the coaches looked like flower beds. Everyone engrossed with the teams, criticising and admiring with perfect frankness. The fly-drivers were killing, knew all the horses, and expressed themselves freely on the way they were handled.

We drove through the Park, and then on to Richmond (not all the coaches), where we breakfasted at the "Star and Garter." The breakfast was good, and at dessert we had "Maids of Honour," the famous cakes that one always gets there. We walked about the Park a little after breakfast; it was delightful under the big trees, and then mounted our coach again and went back by Hurlingham to see a polo match. The road was crowded and driving very difficult, but D. is a capital whip, and I wasn't in the least nervous, though sometimes it did seem as if the bit of road they left us was rather narrow. However D. drove straight on without slackening--and they do make way for a coach. I think it is a sort of national pride in a fine team.

Hurlingham is very pretty and there were quant.i.ties of people there. We saw very well from the top of the coach, and I must say the game was beautifully played. Of course the men all rode perfectly, but the ponies were so clever, quite as keen as the riders, and seemed to know all about it. We got back to the Emba.s.sy about 8, and happily had no one to dinner, but sat on the balcony all the evening, W. smoking, and talking about his conference, which is not going smoothly. The English are stiff, and the people at home unreasonable. I can't imagine how French and English can ever work together--they are so absolutely unlike.

#London#, July, 1884.

W. went to Paris this morning and H. and I are left to our own devices.

I dined alone at the Speaker's and it was pleasant. After dinner we went down to the terrace and walked and sat about. It was so warm that we all sat there with bare arms and necks. It was so pretty; boats pa.s.sing on the river, all the bridges lighted, and so cool and dark on the terrace that one could hardly recognise the people as they walked up and down. I went back to the Emba.s.sy to get H., and we went to Devonshire House, where there was a big reception--all the world there, and the house very handsome, a fine staircase; Lord Hartington receiving us, as the Duke is an old man and couldn't stand the fatigue.

[Ill.u.s.tration: M and Mme Waddington and Their Son

From a photograph by Cesar Paris]

_To G. K. S._

#Albert Gate#, February 9, 1885.

This morning we have the news of the fall of Khartoum and the murder of Gordon. W. is in the country trying horses, so I put on my hat and went out into the Row to hear what was going on. It was crowded with people talking and gesticulating. The Conservatives furious, "such a ministry a disgrace to the country," and a tall man on a handsome chestnut, talking to Admiral C. most energetically, "I am a moderate man myself, but I would willingly give a hand to hang Gladstone on this tree." They are much disgusted--and with reason.

Monday, February 23, 1885.

It seems to be my week, Dear Gertrude, so I will at any rate begin this morning. We are now in full tide of dinners and routs, which last is the most frightful species of entertainment that the human mind has ever devised. They consist of 400 or 500 people packed close in a house which holds about 150--so warm in the rooms that you almost stifle--and so cold on the staircase and halls where the door is always open wide that I always wonder how I can escape without a fluxion de poitrine. We had a banquet ourselves last Tuesday, Harcourts Munsters, Corks, etc., followed by a mild dance, which was however successful, as Pourtales, who is a gay little fellow, led a spirited cotillon, and there were 22 couples. I performed 2 quadrilles, which, naturally, is the extent of my dancing now, unless I take a stray turn with an old partner.

Of course the great excitement has been the departure of the Guards for Egypt, as it takes the husbands, sons, and brothers of half London away.

It does seem such a useless campaign and sacrifice of human life.

There was a child's party at Marlborough House on Friday afternoon which was very successful. Mimi and I were bidden, or _commanded_, as the correct phrase is, at 4 o'clock, so we took ourselves off, he in his white sailor suit, with blue collar, and I in blue velvet. Both Prince and Princess were very amiable, and the d.u.c.h.ess of Edinburgh was very good to Mimi, as she always is, making him sit by her daughters to see the conjuror, and at her table for tea. The children had their tea in the dining-room, with a great many little round tables, we had ours with the Princess. It is very informal, she always makes it herself, and everyone sits down. The Princess Louise was also there, looking very nice, and such a pretty figure. After the tea the children had a fine romp, ending with a most animated Sir Roger de Coverley, in which all the Princes--I mean the 2 younger ones, Prince Eddy and Prince George--joined, and all the Aides-de-Camp. We didn't leave till 7--and the afternoon was rather long, but still I must say I enjoyed myself.

Yesterday we had a pleasant dinner at Lady Hayter's--a Liberal political salon. She has big dinners--receptions every Sat.u.r.day. It was pleasant at first, until many more people came than the house would hold, but that is what the "Maitresse de Maison" particularly aims at.

Everyone here sympathises with Lowell on the death of his wife. She was so very peculiar. I wrote him a little note, as he was always very amiable to me and complimentary about Father and Grandpa. This evening we had a dinner at Julia, Lady Tweeddale's, who is chaperoning her niece, Sir Robert Peel's daughter.

Tuesday.

I couldn't finish last evening, so take up my letter now at 7 o'clock, while I am waiting to dress for dinner. It is a quiet dinner at the Miss Monks'--two cousins, maiden ladies--and I shall wear a high dress, which is much easier to get into. Our dinner last night was pleasant and swell--Duke and d.u.c.h.ess of Leeds, Lord and Lady Delawarr, Lord and Lady Claud Hamilton (she a beauty, with a fine figure; he an attractive Irishman, son of the Duke of Abercorn) and others. They danced afterwards, and we stayed till 12 o'clock. The pose of the fast young married set is not to dance. There is no one to dance with, the Guards are gone. The Row was lovely this morning, like a May day, everybody out. I hope to begin to ride again next week. I am in treaty for a very handsome chestnut, if the man will come down a little in his price.

#Albert Gate#, February 25, 1885.

We have been to-day to the House of Lords to hear Lord Salisbury speak and the vote of censure pa.s.sed. The House was full--the Prince and Duke of Cambridge there. Lord Salisbury spoke well; very calm, very nasty for his adversaries, and as he had the beau role he was much applauded. The defence was weak, the orator feeling evidently that his cause was a bad one, and the temper of the House against him. I should think Lord Salisbury would be a most unpleasant adversary, though always perfectly courteous in manner.

_To J. K._

#Amba.s.sade de France a Londres#, Monday, March 9, 1885.

This is my week again, Dear Jan, and I will begin to-day.

We are going on in a wildly dissipated manner. Last week was very full.

We went to a very pretty ball given by the Artillery Company of London to the Prince and Princess. The Duke of Portland, a young fellow, is colonel of the regiment, and the thing was very well done. Both Prince and Princess danced several times. The supper was very pretty. When it was ready everybody made a line all down the ballroom, and then the procession, with the Princess first and the Duke of Portland, then the Prince with me and various other Princes and swells, walked down the long room, the band playing the "British Grenadiers," and all the people bowing and curtseying. The Royal party supped on a platform and there were 1,000 people seated at supper at long narrow tables, everyone looking hard at the Princess.