Lachesis Lapponica Part 16

I was afterwards conducted from one Laplander to another, till I came to a part of the river, about twenty-five miles above Lycksele. I shall not dwell on the inconveniences I was obliged to undergo every time we had to seek for any of the Laplanders, while I was quite dest.i.tute of provisions. These poor people themselves had, at this season, nothing but fish to eat, as they had not yet begun to slaughter their reindeer, nor to go a fowling; neither had they, as yet, milked any of their reindeer.

_June 2._

On coming to the place just mentioned, we found it impracticable to proceed by water, the river being so rapid, and so much impeded by falls, that we were obliged to undertake a walk of a few miles further, which I was told would bring us to a more navigable stream. After walking for some time, a fen or marsh lay before us, seemingly half a mile broad, which we had to cross. At every step the water was above our knees, and the ice was at the bottom. Where the frost was quite gone, we often sunk still deeper. When we had traversed this marsh, we sought in vain for any human creature, and were therefore under the necessity, a little further on, of crossing another bog, still worse than the former, and a mile in extent. I know not what I would not rather have undertaken than to pa.s.s this place, especially as the elements were all adverse, for it blowed and rained violently.

_June 3._

By four o'clock this morning, having conquered all our difficulties, we still could not meet with any Laplander. I was so fatigued that I could proceed no further without some repose. We therefore made a fire; and having dried my clothes, I lay down by the side of it, in hopes of taking a little rest. But in this I had no success. The fire scorched me on one side, while the cold north wind pinched me on the other; and the gnats so stung my hands, face, and legs, that it was impossible to sleep. Thus I remained in expectation of my Lapland conductor, who had set out in search of another, till two o'clock in the afternoon. I could not help thinking how miserably I might have to end my days here, in case he should think proper to desert me entirely. At length, however, he returned, bringing with him a little black-looking woman, whose hair hung loose about her shoulders, with a red cap upon her head. I scarcely think that any poet could have described a fury so hideous as this woman. She addressed me in Swedish to the following effect. "Oh, thou poor man! what misfortune can have brought thee into my country? Seest thou what miserable living we have? I have never yet seen any stranger here in summer. Whence dost thou come, and whither dost thou intend to go?" Having tasted nothing for four days past but a little fresh fish, without any bread, I asked her, seeing a small kettle in her hand, what she could give me to eat. She immediately set about boiling a pike which she had brought with her; but when I was going to taste it, I observed heaps of vermin between the gills, which made me loathe it altogether, and rather continue to fast, though my strength suffered much. This woman informed me there was no boat to be had on the next river, and that I had only to return the way I came; which words were like a stroke of thunder to me. I know not any thing I would less willingly have undertaken than to traverse again these Stygian marshes, which were now not to be avoided. However, this good woman conducted us to a side path, whereby we avoided about half a mile of the way we had come. In traversing the forest, we arrived at a shed, supported by four posts, and covered with a roof. Here hung some clothes, and a small rein-deer cheese, which last I immediately wished to obtain. But the woman refused, saying she should want it herself for the next holiday. My hunger was such, that I could not lose sight of this cheese, and I was induced to offer her any thing she was pleased to ask for it, telling her I verily believed I should hardly survive another day if I had it not. At length she complied, and the cheese proved afterwards of the most signal service to me. We then took leave of our female companion, and began to measure back our steps. I was thus obliged to return by the course of the river, having, with the thoughtlessness of youth, undertaken more than it was possible to perform.

We continued our voyage down the river, being carried with great velocity by the current, the whole of the next day. At length coming to an island, the Laplander failed in his attempt to weather it, and the boat, striking against a rock, was dashed to pieces. We both found ourselves in the water; but the depth being inconsiderable, we soon landed on the island. My conductor lost not only his boat, but a hatchet and pike. I lost two stuffed birds, one of them a large Heron (_Ardea cinerea_?) which was black with a white breast; the other a Red-bird, or _Gvousach_, as the Laplanders call it, (_Corvus_, or _Lanius infaustus_, see _v._ 2. 109.) It was with great difficulty we got from this island to the sh.o.r.e. The sun shone warm; and after having wrung the water out of our clothes, we walked on for about a mile, along the bank of the river, amongst thickets and bogs, till we came in sight of a colonist, who was fishing for pike. He gave me some provision, and conducted me to Grano, where I only stopped to rest one night, and on the evening of the 8th of June arrived at Umoea.

_June 12._

Early this morning I set out by land towards Pithoea, where I arrived after two days journey, for the night was as pleasant for travelling as the day. Here I met with kind entertainment from Mr. Solander, the princ.i.p.al clergyman of the place.

_June 19._

I went out to sea in a boat for some miles, to explore the neighbouring coast and islands, and returned at length to the new town. Here however I made no long stay, but proceeded in one day from thence to Lulea. I was anxious to lose as little time as possible, being very desirous of reaching the alps of Lulean Lapland time enough to see the sun above the horizon at midnight, which is seen to greater advantage there than at Tornea.

_June 25._

Taking leave of the town, I embarked on the river of Lulea, which I continued to navigate upwards for several successive days and nights, having good accommodation both as to food and boat. The boats here are excellent, far unlike those in the district of Umoean Lapland, which are, in a manner, only sewed together, so that a foot set on one of their sides is sufficient to stave them; and if the pa.s.sengers are not careful how they sit down, the boat is overset. After three days and three nights, we reached Quickjock, situated close to the alps. Here I received from the famous wife of the curate Mr. Grot provisions sufficient to last me for eight days.

_July 6._

After several days' travelling, on the evening of July 6th I ascended _Wallavari_, the first mountain of the alps on this side, which is indeed of a very considerable height. My companion was a Laplander, who served me both as servant and interpreter. In the latter capacity his a.s.sistance was highly requisite, few persons being to be met with on these alps who are acquainted with the Swedish language; nor was I willing to trust myself alone among these wild people, who were ignorant for what purpose I came. I had already suffered much in the Lapland part of Umoea for want of knowing the language. Nor was my companion wanted less to a.s.sist me in carrying what was necessary, for I had sufficient inc.u.mbrances of my own, without being the bearer of our provisions into the bargain.

On my first ascending these wild alps, I felt as if in a new world. Here were no forests to be seen, nothing but mountains upon mountains, larger and larger as I advanced, all covered with snow. No road, no tracks, nor any signs of inhabitants were visible. The verdure of summer seemed to shun this frozen region, retiring into the deep valleys between the mountains. I saw very few birds, except some Ptarmigans, which the Laplanders call _Cheruna_ (_Tetrao Lagopus_), running with their young along the vales. The delightful season of spring, whose cheering influence on man and all living nature I had so lately experienced in the beginning of my journey, seemed an alien here. The declining sun never disappeared sufficiently to allow any cooling shade, and by climbing to the more elevated parts of these lofty mountains, I could see it at midnight above the horizon. When I cast my eyes over the gra.s.s and herbage, there were few objects I had seen before, so that all nature was alike strange to me. I sat down to collect and describe these vegetable rarities, while the time pa.s.sed unperceived away, and my interpreter was obliged to remind me that we had still five or six miles to go to the nearest Laplander, and that if we had a mind for any rein-deer meat, we ought to bestir ourselves quickly. We proceeded therefore up and down the snowy hills, sometimes pa.s.sing along their precipitous sides, which was the most difficult travelling of all, and for many a long way we walked over heaps of stones. About the evening of the following day we reached the nearest spot where any Laplander was at that time settled. The man we met with gave me a very good reception, and furnished me with a couple of rein-deer skins to sleep between.

Immediately after my arrival, the herd, consisting of seven or eight hundred head of rein-deer, came home. These were milked, and some of the milk was boiled for my entertainment, but it proved rather too rich for my stomach. My host furnished me with his own spoon, which he carried in his tobacco-bag. On my expressing a wish, through my interpreter, to have the spoon washed, my Lapland friend immediately complied, taking a mouthful of water, and spitting it over the spoon.

After having satisfied my hunger, and refreshed myself with sleep, I steered my course directly South-west, towards the alps of Pithoea, proceeding from thence to the lofty icy mountains, or main ridge of the country. A walk of scarcely above four or five miles further brought me to the western edge of this ridge, for I was desirous of examining that side of the mountains, to see how it agreed with the eastern part. I had no sooner arrived at the icy mountains than a storm overtook me, accompanied by a shower of thin pieces of ice, which soon formed an icy crust over my own clothes and those of my conductor. The severity of the cold obliged me to borrow the gloves and _lappmudd_ (coat of rein-deer skin) from the man who accompanied me. But the weather proved more favourable as soon as we had crossed the summit of the ridge. From hence the verdant appearance of Norway, lying far beneath us, was very delightful. The whole country was perfectly green, and, notwithstanding its vast extent, looked like a garden in miniature, for the tallest trees appeared not above a span high. As we began to descend the alps, it seemed as if we should soon arrive at the lower country, but our calculations were very inadequate to what we found its actual distance.

At length, however, we reached the plains of which we had enjoyed so stupendous a prospect. Nothing could be more delightful to my feelings than this transition, from all the severity of winter, to the warmth and beauty of summer. The verdant herbage, the sweet-scented clover, the tall gra.s.s reaching up to my arms, the grateful flavour of the wild fruits, and the fine weather which welcomed me to the foot of the alps, seemed to refresh me both in mind and body.

Here I found myself close to the sea coast. I took up my abode at the house of a ship-master, with whom I made an agreement to be taken in a boat, the following day, along the coast. I much wished to approach the celebrated whirlpool, called the _Maelstrom_, but I could find n.o.body willing to venture near it.

We set sail the next morning according to appointment, but the wind proved contrary, and the boat-men were, after a while, exhausted with rowing. Meantime I amused myself in examining various petrifactions, zoophytes, and submarine plants of the _Fucus_ tribe, which occupied every part of the coast. In the evening I arrived at the house of Mr.

Rask, the pastor of Torfjorden, who gave me a kind reception.

Next day we proceeded further on our voyage; but the contrary wind exhausted our patience, and we veered about, soon reaching the place from whence we had first set out, the wind being directly in our favour for that purpose.

On the following morning I climbed one of the neighbouring mountains, with the intention of measuring its height. While I was reposing in perfect tranquillity on the side of the hill, busied only in loosening a stone which I wanted to examine, I heard the report of a gun at a small distance below. I was however too far off to receive any hurt, so, thanks to Providence, I escaped, but my alarm may be easily imagined.

Perceiving the man who had fired the gun, I pursued him to a considerable distance, in order to prevent his charging his piece a second time, and I determined never to go there again without some protection. I inquired who it could be that had made this unprovoked attack, but I found it impossible to gain any information on the subject.

On the 15th of July[16] we set out on our return, and that whole day was employed in climbing the mountains again, to our no small fatigue and exhaustion, the ground we had to pa.s.s over being so extremely steep as well as lofty. When we reached the cold snowy mountains, indeed, we had sufficient opportunity to cool ourselves.

From hence we turned our course towards the alps of Tornea, which were described to me as about forty miles distant. What I endured in the course of this journey is hardly to be described. How many weary steps was I obliged to set to climb the precipices that came in my way, and how excessive were my perspiration and fatigue! Nor were these the worst evils we had to encounter before we reached Caituma. Sometimes we were enveloped with clouds, so that we could not see before us; sometimes rivers impeded our progress, and obliged us either to choose a very circuitous path, or to wade naked through the cold snow water. This fresh snow water however proved a most welcome and salutary refreshment, for without it we should never have been able to encounter the excessive heat of the weather. Water was our only drink during this journey, but it never proved so refreshing as when we sucked it out of the melting snow. Having nearly reached the Lapland village of Caituma, the inhabitants of which seemed perfectly wild, running away from their huts as soon as they perceived us approaching, from a considerable distance, I began to be tired of advancing further up into this inhospitable country. We had not at this time tasted bread for several days, the stock we had brought with us being entirely exhausted. The rich milk of the reindeer was too luscious to be eaten without bread, and the ordinary or second-rate cheese occasioned such a degree of costiveness as I could no longer endure. I determined therefore to return towards Quickjock, which was forty miles from this spot. In the course of my journey thither, walking rather carelessly over the snow, without noticing a hole which the water had made, I fell through the icy crust into the deep snow. The interpreter and guide were totally unable to a.s.sist me, the cavity in which I lay being very steep, and so hollowed out by the water that it surrounded me like a wall. It was not in their power to reach me without a rope, which they luckily were able to procure to drag me out of the hole. I had received a blow on my thigh in the fall, the effects of which I felt for a month afterwards. One of my guides had met with a similar accident but a week before.

At length we arrived at Quickjock, after having been four weeks without tasting bread. Those who have not experienced the want of this essential support of life, can scarcely imagine how hard it is to be deprived of it so long, even with a superfluity of all other kinds of food. I remained four days at Quickjock to recruit my strength, and afterwards descended the river again to Lulea. There being no boat to be had north of Purkijaur, we were obliged to construct a raft for ourselves. Our voyage was very perilous, for the wind and current both combined to overset us, so that it was not without the greatest exertion we saved ourselves, and it being night, n.o.body heard our cries for a.s.sistance.

The next day I was conducted to the river of Calatz, to see the manner of fishing for pearls, and on the 30th of July arrived at Lulea.

Here I rested for a day or two, then proceeded to Tornea, and from thence to Kimi, and some way up the river of that name. Afterwards I entered East Bothland; but not understanding the Finnish language, I found it inconvenient to proceed, and preferred returning four miles back again. I made several excursions to an adjacent island. At the town of Calix I became acquainted with the judge of a neighbouring district, and we accompanied each other to Tornea, from whence I proceeded in a boat to Kengis, Jonesvando, and within four miles of Juckesceni; but as the frost was beginning to set in very hard, it being late in autumn, and there being nothing, as far as I could discover, very remarkable to see, I descended the river again in the same boat, and had a quick pa.s.sage back. Having noted down the Finnish names for such articles as I should be most likely to want at the inns, I ventured once more to enter East Bothland, in order to pursue my journey that way homeward. I considered that in a new country there is always something new to be seen, and that to travel the same road I had come, would probably afford but little entertainment or instruction. I had still less inclination, at this advanced season of the year, to encounter the hazard of a sea voyage. Several merchants who wanted to sail from Tornea to Stockholm, had long been waiting for a fair wind.

I therefore pursued my way along the coast through East Bothland and Finland, visiting Ulea, Brakestad, Old and New Carleby, Wasa, Christina, Biorreborg and Abo, remaining four days at the place last mentioned. I then went by the post yacht to Aland, crossed the sea of Aland, and on the 10th of October reached Upsal.

The whole extent of my journey amounts to 633 Swedish miles (about 3798 English miles) as appears by my itinerary subjoined.

Miles.

From Upsal to Umoea 60 Umoea to Lycksele 12 Lycksele to the upper part of Lapmark 25 From thence again to Umoea 37 From Umoea to Pithoea 22 Pithoea to Longoen 3 Back again to Pithoea 3 From thence to Lulea 5 Lulea to Quickjock 33 Quickjock to the alps of Pithoea 25 From thence to the Norway coast 10 Excursion by sea, and back again, 14 From Norway to Caitum 40 From Caitum to Quickjock 40 Quickjock to Tornea 47 Tornea to Kimi 5 From hence to Maxaniemi 5 Maxaniemi to Calix 9 Calix to Kengis 32 Kengis to Jonesvando 40 Jonesvando to Tornea 26 Tornea to Abo 100 Abo to Upsal 40 ----- 633

(The account of the expenses of this journey, and observations on the advantages to be derived from it, both promised in the beginning of this "brief narrative," are not found in the ma.n.u.script.)

APPENDIX.

N^o II.

The following extract, from Dr. Wahlenberg's "Observations made with a view to determine the height of the Lapland Alps," p. 45, &c., was translated from the Swedish by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly communicated it to the editor, expressing a wish that it might accompany the present publication. To fulfil this desire is now become a duty. It is with a melancholy satisfaction I here subjoin the last communication I ever received from this excellent and learned pupil of Linnaeus, to the work of his master. Many remarks from him have a.s.sisted me in the course of this undertaking, and if I could have submitted the whole to his inspection before it went to press, many inaccuracies, which a foreigner could scarcely avoid, might have been corrected by a native Swede, a man too so supremely accurate, and so conversant with every part of the subject. But this the various and unremitting employments of my deceased friend rendered impracticable, and I could only take advantage of what he had it in his power to bestow, in casual conversations, or in answer to the questions I was now and then obliged to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on all occasions, to satisfy, because, to use his own words, he knew they were "likely to be of use."

The following remarks of Dr. Wahlenberg display a singular acuteness of observation. They are a complete picture, drawn by a masterly hand, not only to the adept in Natural History, but to every one who has the least taste for beholding the face of Nature, under its most striking and unusual aspects. The able author is, as yet, but slightly known to English readers, even in the more technical part of his science. What we are now to lay before them gives a promise of his taking a high rank amongst writers of a superior and more generally interesting cla.s.s, one of those in short who touch upon no subject without enriching it.

Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided into eight sections, each of which describes a separate line of elevation.

1. On approaching the Lapland Alps (_Fjall_), we first arrive at the line where the Spruce Fir, _Pinus Abies_, ceases to grow. This tree had previously a.s.sumed an unusual appearance; that of a tall slender pole, covered from the ground with short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy object in these desolate forests! The _Rubus arcticus_ had already, before we arrived at this point, ceased to bring its fruit to maturity.

With the Spruce we lose the _Rosa cinnamomea_, _Convallaria bifolia_, &c.; and the borders of the lakes are stripped of their ornaments of _Arundo Phragmites_, _Lysimachia thyrsiflora_, _Galium boreale_, and _Carex globularis_. Here is the true station of _Tussilago nivea_ (Willd. Sp. Pl. v. 3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are seen in the rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch is to be found in the lakes higher up.

The boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet below the line of perpetual snow, and the mean temperature is about 3 of Celsius's thermometer (37-1/2 of Fahrenheit).

2. Scotch Firs (_Pinus sylvestris_) are still found, but not near so tall as in the lower country. Their stems here are low, and their branches widely extended. Here are seen the last of _Ledum pal.u.s.tre_, _Salix pentandra_, _Veronica serpyllifolia_, &c. The bogs have already a very steril appearance. Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir grows _Phaca alpina_. Higher up are hardly any Bears to be met with, and the berries of _Vaccinium Myrtillus_ (the Bilberry) do not ripen well.

_Salmo Lavaretus_ (the Gwiniad), and _S. Thymallus_ (the Grayling), soon after disappear from the lakes. The upper limit of this zone, when the Scotch Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of perpetual snow, and the mean temperature about 2,5 of Celsius (36-1/2 of Fahrenheit.) A little below this point, or about 3000 feet before we come to perpetual snow, Barley ceases to ripen; but small farms, the occupiers of which live by grazing and fishing, are met with as far as 400 feet higher, for instance, Naimaka in Enontekis, and so far also potatoes and turnips grow large enough to be worth cultivating.

3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted forests consist only of Birch. Its short thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading, knotty branches, seem prepared to resist the strong winds from the alps. Its lively light green hue is delightful to the eye, but evinces a weakness of vegetation. These Birch forests soon become so low, that they may be entirely commanded from the smallest eminence. Their uppermost boundary, where the tallest of the trees are not equal to the height of a man, is 2000 feet below the line of perpetual snow. This zone is therefore much wider than the preceding. Long before its termination _Alnus incana_, _Prunus Padus_, and _Populus tremula_, were no more to be seen. A little before the Birch ceases, we miss the _Sorbus Aucuparia_ (_Pyrus Aucuparia_, Fl. Brit.) which for some time had not presented us with any fruit; the _Rubus arcticus_ already likewise barren; _Erica vulgaris_, _Aconitum lycoctonum_, &c. Where the Birch forest becomes thinner, the reflection of the heat from the sides of the mountains is the strongest.

Here in many spots we find the vegetation of _Sonchus alpinus_, _Struthiopteris_, and _Aconitum lycoctonum_ remarkably luxuriant. The drier spots now become covered with _Lichen rangiferinus_. _Tussilago frigida_ and _Pedicularis Sceptrum-Carolinum_ have their place to the utmost boundary of the Birch. Thus far only Charr (_Salmo alpinus_) is found in the lakes, and higher up all fishing ceases.

4. All mountains above this limit are called _Fjall_ (Alps). Near rivulets and on the margins of bogs only, is found a little brush-wood, consisting of _Salix glauca_, whose grey hue affords but little ornament to the landscape. The lower country is covered with the dark-looking _Betula nana_, which still retains its upright posture. A few Juniper bushes, and some plants of _Salix hastata_, are found scattered about.

Every hill is covered with _Arbutus alpina_, variegated with _Andromeda caerulea_ and _Trientalis europaea_. The more boggy ground is decorated with _Andromeda polifolia_ in its greatest beauty, and _Pedicularis lapponica_. On the sides of the mountains, where the reflected heat has the greatest power, grow _Veronica alpina_, _Viola biflora_, _Pteris crispa_, and _Angelica Archangelica_. This zone extends within 1400 feet of the line of perpetual snow. The Glutton (_Mustela Gulo_) goes no higher than this. The berries of _Rubus Chamaemorus_ still ripen here, but not at a greater degree of elevation.

5. Now no more brushwood is to be seen. The white _Salix lanata_ is not above two feet high, even about the rivulets, and _Salix myrsinites_ is of still more humble growth. _Betula nana_ occupies the drier situations, but creeps entirely upon the ground. The hills are clothed with the rather brown than green _Azalea proc.u.mbens_ and _Azalea lapponica_, which give this zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant spots between the precipices, where the sun has the greatest power, produce _Lychnis apetala_, _Erigeron uniflorum_, _Astragalus leontinus_[17] and _monta.n.u.s_, with _Ophrys alpina_. In boggy places _Aira alpina_, _Carex ustulata_, and _Vaccinium uliginosum_ are observable. The only berries however which ripen at this degree of elevation, are those of _Empetrum nigrum_; but these are twice as large as what grow in the woodlands, and better flavoured. The upper boundary of this zone is 800 feet below the line of perpetual snow. The Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents higher up, as the pasture for their reindeer ceases a very little way above this point. The mean temperature is about +1 of Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit).