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Grey seals are hunted in winter till Lady-day. They lie upon the ice, often in great numbers, close to a hole which they have made in it. When they come out of the water by this opening upon the surface of the ice, the water they bring with them freezes about its margin, so that in time the edges become elevated, and it looks like a well. If it should freeze over, they travel to the south-west, till they can get at water, always proceeding straight forward, even though they meet with mountains in their way; and they return in the same direct line back again. The hunters go with large poles, carefully approaching the creek seal till they get near enough to fire at him before he is aware. The grey seal is taken with a sort of hook or harpoon.
The seals are able to penetrate through the ice from beneath, lying on their backs under water, be it ever so thick, but cannot make their way into it from above.
END OF THE TOUR.
APPENDIX.
N^o I.
A BRIEF NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY TO LAPLAND,
Undertaken with a View to Natural History, in the Year 1732, at the Expense of the Royal Academy (of Upsal); by CHARLES LINNaeUS, Student of Physic and of Natural History, as drawn up by Himself to lay before the said Academy.
The Royal Academy of Sciences having, last Spring, permitted my humble memorial to be laid before them, respecting the project of a journey to Lapland, with a view to the improvement of natural history, and having honoured the same with their approbation, appointing me to undertake the expedition. I feel it my duty, after having accomplished my journey, most respectfully to present to the Academy a narrative thereof.
For the sake of brevity and clearness I shall divide my subject into three parts.
1st, A journal of my tour.
2d, The expenses incurred.
3d, The advantages likely to accrue.
I. THE JOURNAL.
_May 12, 1732._
Having received my instructions from the Royal Academy of Sciences, with a pa.s.sport from the Government, and having prepared every thing necessary for my journey, I set out immediately at eleven o'clock, from this place (Upsal), carrying with me nothing but what was absolutely necessary, in order that I might not be detained or interrupted, in case of not being able always to procure a horse, but might occasionally pursue my way on foot. As the summer seemed to be fast advancing, I thought it not advisable to lose time by the way, nor to stray far from the road, in the early part of the tour, but only to observe attentively what readily presented itself, that I might reach Lapland with all possible dispatch.
_May 13._
By eleven o'clock I arrived at Gefle, where I was obliged to stay all that day, for it was evening before I received from the governor of the province (of Gestrickland) the requisite pa.s.sport, which was accompanied by orders to all the public officers in his district to give me all requisite a.s.sistance to penetrate, if possible, into Asila Lapmark.
_May 14._
Owing to the above delay, and my attending morning service the next day at Gefle church, I could not quit that place till one o'clock.
Proceeding without stopping to Hudwickswald, I there merely spoke a few words to Mr. Broman the clergyman, and pursued my way to Knorby Knylen, the highest mountain in Medelpad, from whence I went to Sundswall, and further. In my way I examined a cave formed by nature in a very hard rocky mountain, formerly a retreat for thieves and highwaymen.
I was so unfortunate, in my journey through Medelpad, as not to meet with a single horse that did not tumble with me several times, in consequence of which I was at one time so severely hurt as to be scarcely able to remount. Having already collected together a number of stones and minerals, which were no less burthensome than unnecessary to carry along with me further, I rode to Hernosand, where I left these inc.u.mbrances. I did not, however, stay there above two hours.
_May 20._
At length I reached the famous mountain of Skula in Angermanland, at the very top of which is a large grotto, so neatly formed by nature that art could scarcely have excelled it. This grotto was represented to me as quite inaccessible, and it was said that not more than two or three persons had ever been there; nor was it without great difficulty that I prevailed on two men to accompany me, every body deeming the project impracticable. As we climbed up towards it, we sometimes crept forwards, sometimes slid back again. Now we mounted a considerable way by catching hold of branches and roots of trees, and then, meeting with steep inaccessible rocks, were obliged to turn back. After following one of my guides for about two hours, I thought the other seemed to make more progress; which induced me to go after the latter. I was scarcely got two ells out of my former path, than the man whose track I had left loosened a large stone with his foot, which fell on the very spot I had quitted, with such violence, that I was surrounded by fire and smoke, and should certainly, but for the protecting hand of Providence, have been crushed to pieces. We reached the grotto at length, after much labour and trouble, and descended the mountain with much greater facility. Laying hold of the tops of spruce firs which grew close to the rocks, we slid down upon them, dragging them after us down the precipices.
_May 23._
I at length, after twelve days journey, reached Umoea.
It had originally been my design to go to Asila Lapmark, in order to observe what plants are able to endure the very hard winters of that region, but I was obliged to change my plan. The summer would not have been long enough, nor my stock of money sufficient to enable me to reach that most northern part of the country, where the severity of the climate is augmented by the cold north wind and the vast snowy mountains. I applied, therefore, to baron Grundell, governor of Umoea, for a pa.s.sport to the nearer parts of Lapland, which was immediately granted. This gentleman showed the greatest readiness to befriend me, and appeared to take much interest in the success of my undertaking. He gave such orders as might cause the public officers in Lapland to lay no obstacles in my way, but rather to a.s.sist me by every means in their power. He himself gave me much curious information, and showed me his own garden, that I might observe what plants would stand the winter here: concluding by expressing, in the most flattering terms, his approbation of my appointment.
_May 25._
The following morning I set out on my way towards Lapmark. Leaving the highway, I came to one of the most unpleasant roads I ever travelled. It was covered with stones, betwixt which were thick entangled roots of trees, and among them were deep holes full of water. The whole ground was a marsh, which the frost was at this time just about quitting. Large pine-trees, that had been blown down in the course of the stormy winter, frequently crossed my path; and the more flexible birches, weighed down by the snow, interrupted my course on all sides. I frequently came to such steep heathy places that my horse could scarcely climb or descend them, and in the bottoms between them were marshy tracts, with rivulets dest.i.tute of bridges, so that my beast slipped down several times; and as I pa.s.sed the streams, the water reached up to my saddle. I then regretted, what I had in the former part of my journey so much detested, travelling on the high-way on these stumbling horses, and would rather have descended the steepest hill in Angermannia than have chosen the present road, for at every step the horse took, I thought he would have fallen.
In the evening of
_May 28,_
however, I arrived at Genom, the last village in Westbothland, seven miles from the great road which leads westward from Umoea. Not having reposed since I left the place last mentioned, I slept here all night.
_May 29._
The next morning I proceeded in a boat up the river of Umoea as far as Lycksele church, which is the first in Umoean Lapmark, and situated five miles distant from Grano. This was Whitsun-eve.
_May 30._
Being Whitsunday, I determined to stay here. Indeed Mr. Gran the minister of the place[15] (Pastor Gran in the original) wished me to wait till the next Sabbath-day, as he did not think it advisable for me to proceed, so as to come suddenly among the Laplanders, before he had made my design known from the pulpit. He was apprehensive that I might meet with the same accident as his own wife had done, who coming unexpectedly upon these people, had a fire-lock presented to her breast.
Notwithstanding this, the rise of the water in the river, in consequence of the advancing summer among the Alps, was so rapid, that I was on that account induced to hasten my departure, after having engaged one of the colonists to accompany me by water to the nearest habitation of some one of the native Laplanders.
_May 31._
The divine service of this day being over, I left Lycksele, taking with me only three loaves of bread, and some rein-deer tongues, by way of provision. I presumed that I should procure among the Laplanders flesh of the rein-deer, cheese, milk, fish, fowl, &c. Nor, indeed, could I well take any thing more at present; for, whenever we came at any shoals or falls in the river, it was necessary for my companion to take our boat on his head, over mountains and valleys, so that I had not only my own luggage to carry at such times, but his likewise.
_June 1._
Having by morning come within the territories of the nearest Laplander, we left our boat on the sh.o.r.e of the river, and went in search of this man through the wild forests, where we saw no more traces of roads or enclosures than if the country were entirely uninhabited. We met, however, with several deserted huts, where he had at one time or other resided.
Being exceedingly tired with this walk, I was glad to repose myself here in the desert, while my Finland conductor went in search of my future guide. Nor was I without considerable fears that this man, when he had met with the Laplander, might not be able to find me again. However, about noon he returned, accompanied by a Laplander, who took charge of me, inviting me home to his hut, where he treated me with fish, and fresh water.