Kathay: A Cruise in the China Seas Part 9

They have some very fine roads for drives, cut at a considerable expense through hills and boulders of granite. The "Victoria Road" leads out, about four miles to a place called East Point, and upon it, about two miles from the town, is a fine race-course. This course has been gotten up by subscription, and is situated in a large and beautiful valley, called "Happy Valley." It is well named, if beauty can confer happiness, and it certainly is a princ.i.p.al ingredient, for has not a poet said

"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."

Here are held periodical races, and the sport is much enjoyed, as it always is by Englishmen. No climate is too hot, none too cold to prevent it, and these trials of speed are characteristic of the nation. The Spaniard will have his bull-fight, the Mexican pits his c.o.c.ks, but John Bull selects the n.o.blest of quadrupeds, and infuses into him his own emulation for superiority.

Upon the evening of the 31st of March, had a little excitement to destroy the monotony of a life on shipboard. A report was circulated that a band of pirates had smuggled themselves on board the P. & O.

Company's steamer "Hong-Kong," which had left that day for Canton.

These boats are in the habit of taking Chinese pa.s.sengers at one dollar a head, a very low rate, and as such, it was said a number of desperadoes, armed, had embarked in her.

H. B. M. screw propeller "Reynard," immediately got up steam, thirty men and officers from our ship were transferred to the little American steamer "Spark," and both vessels started in hot pursuit.

The Reynard stopped at the Bogue, and her boats proceeded to scour those waters, whilst the Spark proceeded up the Canton river. She had not far to go, however, for about midnight the return steamer was hailed, which reported having pa.s.sed the "Hong-Kong," all right. So both vessels returned to Hong-Kong, upon the morning of the first of April.

But although the coincidence was ominous, they could not truly be said to have caught a "_poisson d'avril_," for there was doubtless a design against the steamer, which had on board a large amount of treasure, and some of these Chinamen were afterwards tried and condemned at Hong-Kong, for the attempt. Want of unanimity or some other cause having defeated their purpose.

Upon the second of April, left for Macao, there to await the arrival of our consort. Tried to get into our old anchorage in the Typa, and stuck upon the mud-bank again, where we remained until the fourth morning, kedging, hauling and warping, when succeeded in getting afloat by pumping out the water, and transferring shot, &c., into a lorcha. After reaching the anchorage, hoisted the Portuguese flag, and fired a salute of 21 guns in honor of the birthday of the Queen of Portugal.

Upon the 8th instant, our consort arrived, and anch.o.r.ed in the outer roads; by her I received old newspapers, and a letter seven months and seventeen days after date.

Had been ash.o.r.e several times in Macao, but found little to interest me until the evening before Good Friday, when there was a general turn out of the inhabitants, and all the churches were brilliantly illuminated, and the altars decked with flowers. Crowds went from one church to the next, and the princ.i.p.al object appeared to be that of visiting each and every church, a continuous stream being kept up between them.

Upon Good Friday the tragedy of the death of our Saviour was performed at the cathedral. After the crucifixion, the body was removed from the cross, and carried upon a bier, through the different streets in solemn procession. First came the host with its usual attendants, then followed the "accursed tree" with the b.l.o.o.d.y garment of Christ upon it. After it came ten beautiful children, personating angels; then was borne a waxen image to represent the corpse, followed by the virgin mother, and immediately succeeding the two other Marys. The bishop and suite were next, then the troops of the garrison, with arms reversed, and mournful music; the rear being brought up by male citizens in mourning dresses and heads uncovered. In this line of march the procession moved through the princ.i.p.al streets, and back to the cathedral, where the body was placed in the tomb with solemn ceremony.

On the first day of the week the resurrection was celebrated with appropriate joyful demonstration. At night, maskers went about the streets, stopping at intervals to have a dance, and entering houses, where after going through a performance, they would partake of refreshments.

Left Macao for Shanghae on the 25th of April, to beat up the China Sea against a strong N. E. monsoon. In this pa.s.sage our craft behaved remarkably well, and although quite wet, held her own, and diligently ploughed her way through all difficulties, amongst not the least obstructing was a heavy head sea, which made her very uncomfortable, also greatly impeded her progress.

Made the islands off the mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang on the 12th of May, and came to anchor in the river that night. Found the current very strong, and the wind being ahead, had to await a change of tide.

Weighed anchor with the first setting in of the flood, and got about eight miles up the river, when had to let it go again. Thus we continued until the 14th, when had worked our way into the Woo-Sung or Shanghae river, where, although the breeze was favorable, the water shoaled so suddenly, that we were forced to come to, just above the village of Woo-Sung. The Woo-Sung river empties into the Yang-tse-Kiang about 40 miles from its confluence with the ocean, and the city of Shanghae is situated upon the Woo-Sung, about three leagues above its junction with the Yang-tse-Kiang, which is one of the largest rivers in China, and washes the walls of the city of Nankin, formerly the southern capital of the Empire.

Nankin is laid down in lat.i.tude 32 5' N., longitude 119 E., and is about 50 leagues from the ocean.

The meaning of the words Yang-tse-Kiang, is, Child of the Ocean, or more literally, "Son of the Sea;" it is about two thousand five hundred miles in length, and its breadth and capacity ent.i.tle it to the cla.s.sification of the third river of the world.[8]

As we ascended the Woo-Sung, found a marked difference in the face of the country. Our former stations in China had been amongst the rocky hills of the southern Archipelago, which scarcely allowed the smallest shrub to take root upon their barren sides, and the sight of trees had become rare to us. But here, upon either side, was stretched out a beautiful green plain, giving evidence of the most industrious cultivation, protected from encroachments of the river by strong and broad levees. Substantial, comfortable farm-houses meeting the eye in every direction, supplied the places of the insecure huts of the fishermen. Fruit trees were abundant, and the general aspect gave evidence of a genial soil, aiding the efforts of the provident husbandman.

The men, too, whom we could see at work beyond the embankments, were of a larger stature, and had a more healthy appearance than their southern brethren. Their complexions were of a lighter hue, and here, for the first time, I saw a Chinaman with rosy cheeks.

The invigorating effects of a northern climate were fully proven in the appearance of these people. They seemed to enjoy the roughest health, and were free from that care-worn look of the Chinese about Canton. They were clad more entirely than these also, and wore more of woollen in the material of their garments. Chow-chow appeared more abundant, and the children were the fattest little rascals I have ever seen. But I cannot commend them for cleanliness, and must admit that their countrymen nearer the sea make a better use of that cleansing element,--possibly because it was spread before them in larger quant.i.ties.

It was in the spring-time, in the "merrie month of May," when we approached Shanghae; every thing was in bloom. There had been the usual spring rains, and the weather had settled down to that delightful temperature, which has such a cheering effect upon the spirits. And as we dodged the tides in the winding Woo-Sung, spots would be descried which brought to mind some similar scenes at home: these would be pointed out. Another would find a resemblance in some grove, plantation, or clump of trees; and thus its banks were made sacred, and our Lares and Penates jostled the household G.o.ds that presided there.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 8: An English tourist, who found himself upon the Yang-tse-Kiang, compared it with the Thames, admitting its superiority.

I, as a Yankee, compare it with my own Mississippi; and place it next in rank to the "Father of waters," to which stream it hears some resemblance.]

CHAPTER XVI.

Shanghae--Immense number of Junks--Foreign Residences--Novelty of Chimneys--Revolting appearance of Beggars--Undertakers --Price of Coffins--Decline Trading--Description of City --Stagnant Pools--Tea Gardens--Sweet Site--The Taoutae-- Advantages of Shanghae--Departure--Ship Ash.o.r.e!--Sensation.

Shanghae is situated in about 30 26' N. lat.i.tude; longitude 120 48'

East. Reached it on the 16th of May, and came to anchor about one mile below its walls, off the dwellings of the foreign residents. As we approached, were struck with the appearance of a forest of masts, belonging to junks in front of the city; in fact, these were all we could see, as they completely shut out a view of the city from our position.

Although suffering from sickness, could not resist the desire to get on sh.o.r.e, and accordingly landed amongst the residents' houses the first opportunity. These are built entirely in the European style, and some of them present a fine appearance. The climate in the winter season compelling the use of fire, they are all provided with chimneys, which was a feature remarkable at once, it being unusual on the southern coast. From these houses, as you approach the city, you enter upon a scene of filth and dirt indescribable, and have to pa.s.s through a line of beggars, who exhibit the most loathsome and revolting sores, to excite the pity of the pa.s.ser-by.

In approaching the city, had to skirt a graveyard, where the coffins are placed above ground, and left there until their contents are decomposed, when they are removed, to make place for others. In the neighborhood are numerous coffin makers, and the trade appears to be thriving, from the numbers engaged at it. Our guide informed me that I could procure one of these "accommodations" at prices varying from five to five hundred dollars. I declined trading for them, however, considering _that_ a negotiation to be entered into by "sorrowing friends."

Entered the city through a double gateway, having had to cross a fetid, shallow ditch before the walls.

Shanghae is a walled city, and in its appearance much like other Chinese towns, only it was more filthy than any I had yet visited. Crossed a number of stagnant pools, over bridges much too good for such stinking streams, being, in their architecture, entirely out of keeping with the other properties. Saw a great many Tea Gardens, where the tea was dispensed by the cup; and when a Chinaman called for a cup, it was perhaps in the same spirit that some of our country men demand a "smaller" of brandy, rum, or gin, though the Celestial certainly imbibes the least noxious potion. One of these gardens formed the centre of a stagnant pool, and was reached by bridges from different points. A fantastic-looking temple appeared the rendezvous, and upon the whole the effect would have been pleasing, but for that sickly green water.

Visited several shops, and made a few purchases of "_curios_" and was then perfectly satisfied to get out of such a filthy hole.

The day after his arrival, our commander and suite paid an official visit to the Taoutae,--Lead man of the district,--and was well received.

The Chinese who held this office had been an old Hong merchant at Canton. He gave the entertainment in the European style; and from having consorted so much with "Fankwies," in his former capacity, he was quite at home; but you may depend upon it, it is always with much reluctance that these Celestial citizens of the Central Flowery Land dispense with any of their customs in our favor; and when they do condescend to lay aside their chop-sticks, and use the knife and fork, there is policy in it. What was the object in this instance, further than to honor a nation where "gold grows," I did not ascertain. But we have undoubtedly risen greatly in their estimation since the acquisition of California, and the appearance of our magnificent clipper ships in their waters.

The day following His Excellency, the Taoutae, sent on board numerous presents, amongst which were some early fruit, sweetmeats, and two very fine sheep. These latter, of the celebrated Shanghae breed, were the finest specimens I have seen for a long time; and the most striking peculiarity about them was the preponderance of fat to their caudal extremities, the tail of each being of an entirely different formation from that of the European breed; and I can compare it to nothing better than an immense woolly mop, "in the place where the _tail_ ought to grow." I do not know if any of these sheep have ever been imported into the United States, or whether they would endure the voyage, but understood the stock is not considered equal to our own. These certainly were covered with heavy coats of wool: of its quality I was unable to judge, having confined my examination entirely to what lay beneath, which I can unhesitatingly p.r.o.nounce to be as good mutton as I had ever eaten.

A very short stay, and an attack of sickness, prevented me from exploring much of Shanghae, or its environs, and I learned there are a thousand things worth seeing.

The Chinese call this province the Paradise of China, and if I am not mistaken, the word has this signification when interpreted: and they have a proverb, which runs in this wise: "See Shanghae, and die." I came very near acting up to their advice, for after seeing what is previously written, I was taken seriously ill; so that, had our stay been prolonged, I would have been unable to have gone on sh.o.r.e, unless, indeed, in one of their fancy coffins!

Learned, however, from one of the officers of Her Majesty's brig "Contest," who had been stationed here some time, that the climate is delightful to those who are able to withstand the cold of the winters; that the features of the country have not been misstated, but are equal to any representation made; that game is at all times abundant, especially in autumn, when fine sport is to be obtained by those who handle "mantons" with even moderate skill; furthermore, the followers of quaint old Isaac, the ancient angler, need but a t.i.the of his art to tempt the piscatory tribe from their native element. But he did affirm that in midsummer, the mercury in the tube scarcely ever gets below 100 Fahrenheit, and the action of the sun's rays upon the stagnant water before-named, gives such an intimation to the nostrils of the state of the atmosphere, as to render the use of the eudiometer unnecessary.

Got under way from our moorings early in the morning of Monday the 19th, and dropped down with the tide; getting out of the Woo-Sung, anch.o.r.ed in the Yang-tse-Kiang, on the 20th, pa.s.sed Saddle Island, and dismissing the pilot, headed for Amoy, at which port we were to look in on our return.

We had proceeded along pretty well until the morning of the 27th, when about three o'clock in the morning watch, as I was lying awake in my apartment, heard the officer of the deck give the order for tacking ship--"Ready about"--and after the boatswain's pipe to "Stations."

"Ready, ready," when she received a shock, as from the concussion of a heavy sea, then another, and another, which soon convinced me that the ship was ash.o.r.e. This was certainly unpleasant, as I had no doubt but that we were at that time twenty miles from land, and the idea of a coral reef in that position, was premonitory of a salt-water bath.

Before the call of "All hands save ship," was given, I was upon deck, and found that she had grounded upon a bank on the northern coast of the island of Formosa, having been swept by an unusual current over thirty miles in the course of twelve hours, an event altogether unlooked for, and which would have baffled the skill of the most experienced navigator; our chart, upon examination, also proving to be incorrect.

Luckily it was ebb tide when she went on, and after getting out all the boats, and lightening the ship by throwing overboard shot and starting water, she was got off, after having been aground about eight hours, and thumping terribly.

It was the first time I had ever felt the effects of a heavy sea upon a ship ash.o.r.e, and never wish to experience them again.

With our armament and stores we were probably as heavily laden as a merchant vessel of greater tonnage would have been with cargo, but being more strongly built, were of course better able to withstand the shocks.

Every time she struck, the top-gallant masts would sway like saplings, and the ship tremble throughout her whole frame, indeed, a homely remark of one of her crew was very expressive of her condition: "Why the old ship has got the hiccups," and her motions were truly resembling those of a human being in convulsive throes.

Notwithstanding we got off so easily, yet our situation had in it much of peril, and we were at one time in some danger.

The inhabitants of this part of Formosa are savages, some say cannibals.

They had gathered in great numbers on the beach, some two or three thousands, and appeared divided into different clans, awaiting our breaking up. Had we fallen into their hands, defenceless, there was but little chance of escaping, so greatly did they outnumber our crew.