Kathay: A Cruise in the China Seas Part 6

After the death of Magellan, and the defeat of his expedition, two more attempts were made, which also failed. A fourth expedition, under command of Villalobos, sent by Mendoza, then Governor of New Spain, in 1542, succeeded in reaching the islands, when was given to them the name of Philippines, in honor of Philip the Second, Prince of Asturias; but Villalobos dying, it was broken up, and the few Spaniards that survived, returned home disheartened.

It remained to Segaspi to establish permanently the Spanish power upon these islands, and in 1565 he planted successfully that flag upon Luconia, and became its first Governor. By a judicious policy the good will of its inhabitants was secured, and the successful attempts of priests in converting the credulous natives to Catholicism, cemented a conquest for Spain, the least stained of any in her sanguinary history.

In 1571 Manilla was formed into a city with a munic.i.p.al government, but it was not until 1795 that its charter received the royal seal, and only in 1638 that it obtained the privileges of the other royal cities of Spain.

"The ever loyal city" is supposed to be that portion inclosed by walls, but the suburbs are most interesting to a stranger.

The semi-circular s.p.a.ce called "Manilla," contains the dwellings of the full-fed drowsy officials, whilst surrounding it is a busy, active buzzing hive. The change from the bustle of the Binondo quarter to the dull torpor _intra murales_, strikes you at once.

Leaving the ship in one of her boats, we were pulled up the Pasig, a river which runs through the town, and connects Laguna de Bay with the Bay of Manilla, and is here between two and three hundred yards wide, protected by an extensive Mole, which projects some distance into the Bay, upon the extremity of which is a light-house.

A short distance from its entrance was the Hotel of San Fernando, situated upon its left bank, which we reached about noon, and finding the heat oppressive, gladly availed ourselves of the protection of its roof, and the refreshment of a shower bath, which no one can appreciate more than a person who has been confined on board a man of war, with "one wide water all around" him, and but few chances to use it.

Took dinner at the hotel, and having thus refreshed and fortified the inner man, hired a "piscante" (a carriage to contain two persons), and drove, through the suburbs, out to the Calcada, to reach which, had to cross a magnificent, but ancient bridge over the Pasig.

The Calcada is the fashionable drive, and the meaning of the word is a causeway, or raised road; it extends along the walls of the city, and its centre, as well as each of its sides, is planted with fine flowering trees. A s.p.a.ce is left between the double row of trees in the centre, in which are placed mounted guards, in showy uniforms, and mounted on splendid horses, to preserve order, and prevent collision of carriages, which are not permitted to pa.s.s out of a line, but must enter the pa.s.seo from the city at the left, and are obliged to follow each other at a slow pace and return upon the opposite side in the same order; the duty of the patrol being to see that no carriage leaves its place in the line.

This part of the road forms the chord of a semi-circle, whilst a continuation, not planted, is the segment, which turning round the walls of the city extends along the beach of the bay, giving a fine view of the shipping in the roads.

From the Calcada branch roads, leading to different points on this beautiful island, and these drives are truly magnificent. The roads are natural, and smooth as the most carefully kept lawn, your carriage rolls along them with so even a motion, and the scenery through which you drive is of such an oriental character, and the produce so luxuriant and rare, its fragrance so sweet, that one leans back in his easy-going piscante, totally forgetful of every thing but the present enjoyment, and almost realizing the ideas of fairy land which fancy wove

"In Life's young day."

On the evening of our first day in Manilla, after returning from our drive, directed the "cochero" to take us to the theatre; he accordingly drove us to the Carillo quarter, and to the theatre of that name. Were admitted on the payment of two reals each, and seated ourselves, patiently awaiting the withdrawing of a curtain, upon which was delineated an uncouth figure and accompaniment, supposed to represent the "divine Apollo" and his lyre.

The building was of bamboo, and, covered with leaves from the same tree, was cool and well ventilated.

About fifty persons composed the audience, and these were princ.i.p.ally civilized Indians of the Tagalo tribe, a fine-looking race. They were remarkably well behaved, and listened with much attention and apparent pleasure, to some most execrable music, elicited by sc.r.a.ping "the hair of the horse over the entrails of a cat," to wit: fiddling!

which, ceasing at last, at a given signal, up rose the curtain, and with it Apollo took flight, and ascended to the clouds. The performance commenced, and lo! we found we had been beguiled into a puppet-show!--the actors being of pasteboard, and, although managed very well, we soon tired of them, and retracing our road to the hotel, took a shower bath, and turned in.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 7: Fernando Magelhaens, generally called as in the text, was the first who attempted the circ.u.mnavigation of the globe. He was a Portuguese by birth, and sailed from the port of St. Lucar, in Spain, with an expedition of five vessels, under the auspices of Charles V., on the 20th of September, 1519. But one of his vessels effected its object, the Vitoria, under Sebastian del Cano, which reached St. Lucar, the 6th of September, 1522, with but eighteen survivors, who made a pilgrimage barefooted to the Saints for their safe return. He gave his name to those Straits, through which he reached the East, a few years after his fellow-countryman, De Gama, had pa.s.sed around the Cape of Good Hope.]

CHAPTER X.

Drive to the Balsa--Meaning of the word--A Mob of Women--Nora Creena--Magic, slipper--Description of the drive--Ferryman of the Females--Decline the office--The Suburbs--A la Balsa-- Manilla, intra murales--The Mole by Moonlight--Friend in a fit--Circo Olympico--Scenes in the Circle.

Up betimes upon the morning of our second day on sh.o.r.e, for a drive to the Balsa. The word, in English, means pool or raft, and the road over which we drove led to a ferry over a stream, which you cross to reach the romantic village of Maraquino.

Met crowds of native women coming in from that neighborhood to commence their work at the tobacco factory. Had heard of _miles_ of girls at Lowell, greeting with smiles the n.o.ble father of the system which gave them employment, the honorable and the honest Henry Clay, but had never antic.i.p.ated meeting with so many of the s.e.x, within a mile, in these lat.i.tudes.

The crowd was so great as to materially affect our progress. We had often to haul up to allow them to pa.s.s, and when our cochero received the order "_ander_" it was coupled with the caution "_des.p.a.cho_" that he might drive carefully for fear of injuring some of them.

Did not count, but suppose there could not have been less than two thousand women in this mob; but, alas! though some were young, but few were beautiful, and, as they shuffled along, in their short jackets, and the ungainly _sciar_ wrapped around their nether extremities, they made a display of charms by no means attractive. Their style of dress differing from Nora Creena's in this, that whilst her gown was

"Flowing free as mountain breezes,"

their subst.i.tute for that portion of woman's apparel appeared as if the strongest kind of a "mountain breeze" had wrapped it tightly round their forms, and continued to keep them enveloped in its Laoc.o.o.n-like folds; and although "_every beauty_" was not left exactly "_free_" yet there could be no disputing the evidence of _sinking_ and _swelling_ so sweetly described by the poet, as the peculiar charm exhibited in the costume of his admired Nora. They were generally barefooted, and those whose feet were clad, had them covered with that wonderful slipper, which barely covers the extremity of the foot, and is kept in its place by the adhesion of the smallest toe to its neighbor.

Getting clear, at length, of this crowd of feminines, "presto" was the word, and away we bowled along one of the most beautiful roads I have ever seen. The foliage was luxuriant, the air of the early morning cool and refreshing, and filled with fragrance. The road (a natural one) even as a bowling green.

A drive of about one hour brought us to the river. I forget its name; it is a small stream flowing into the Bay of Manilla at Cavite, where we found the float formed of bamboo, which is drawn across by _ropes_ (?) made of the same material. By this means that immense concourse of women had been transported, and great as is my devotion and subjection to their charms, should have declined the office of ferryman, after the morning's rencontre.

A sudden shower prevented our making a long stay at this romantic spot, and also interfered with a contemplated visit to a manufactory of Manilla cordage in the neighborhood.

Breakfast was awaiting our return at the hotel, at half-past nine, and this dispatched, spent some time expecting a permit to visit the "Fabrica del Tobago," in which being disappointed, made our cochero drive us through the suburbs. As I have before stated, these form the princ.i.p.al part of the town, and are of considerable extent, but the houses in them are generally constructed of bamboo.

There are a number built of stone, but many of them were in a dilapidated condition.

In the after part of the day drove again to the Calcada, where we spent the evening pa.s.sing up and down, and occasionally slipping out of place in the line when we could escape the vigilant eye of the guard, to enable us to pa.s.s the equipage and to see the face of "some gay beauty,"

the exquisite shape of whose neck and shoulders had tempted us to risk fine and imprisonment for the sake of a "front view."

After a refreshing sleep, which was superinduced by a glorious shower bath, and made doubly delicious by the remembrance of the glances of the beauties of the Prado, which, like fire-flies, flitted through our dreams, started again upon the Balsa road with an intention of visiting the "Rope factory," from seeing which the rain deterred us yesterday.

Our command to the cochero upon his mounting, was _a la Balsa_, trusting to be able to direct him on the way, but as we depended somewhat upon the fellow's knowledge of the proper place to turn off, found ourselves again disappointed, for the confounded postillion either could not or would not find the road, and out to the ferry again he drove us, in spite of my teeth, and all the Spanish I could get through them. I rather thought he made ignorance a plea for unwillingness, until I afterwards learned that these men, the cocheros, who are a cla.s.s _sui generis_, being of the Indian race, understand but little more of the Spanish language than what they pick up at hotels, in the way of their profession--their own tongue being the Tagalo, of which tribe they are generally natives. My vanity somewhat soothed by this information, after breakfasting drove within the walls of the city, and entered the "city of Manilla," little more now than a citadel for the surrounding population. These walls are in themselves thick and ma.s.sive, and cover a considerable s.p.a.ce in their foundation, although the area which they inclose is not so great as it appears from the bay. Within them the houses are of a better style of architecture than those of the suburbs, and the streets through which I drove were well graded, even and clean; but life was wanting here, and the solitary soldier at his post was the only thing human I saw; however, my visit was not well timed, being at the hour when the Senoras are supposed to be taking their siestas, and my object was merely to see what kind of a place it was. Upon a future occasion saw it to more advantage.

I refer to my diary, from which make the following extracts.

_Monday, the eighteenth of February._--Returned on board from another trip to the sh.o.r.e, last night at twelve, and have seen so many sights, that I scarcely know in what manner to record them; perhaps the best plan is to detail them, seriatim.

Left the ship on Sat.u.r.day morning, in the ten o'clock boat, and reaching the hotel, remained there until dinner, occupying time in reading and taking a bath. After dinner drove out to the Calcada, around it to the front of the city and the mole; walked upon the mole for an hour or more, when the moon rose. It was full and bright; never had seen such splendid moonlight. Had a sentimental friend with me, upon whom it operated powerfully. He remarked, "What a treat it would be to have by your side, in such a scene, one whom you loved, and who could love you!"

Finding the fit strong upon him, made the cochero drive off the Prado directly, and take us to the "Circo Olympico"--its opening night. Paid six reals each for admission and had our money's worth.

The performers were all Indians, excepting the proprietor, who was himself a native of _la belle France_. The horses were "_native_" if not to "the _manner_ born." Nice little nags, these ponies of Manilla. The Frenchman had trained the _menage_, both Indians and horses, and promised the enlightened public a treat such as had never been offered before. His place was well arranged, and we had tickets stamped _a la premiere lunette_--to the dress circle. In it were several very tastily dressed and rather handsome ladies--brunettes of course. The performance had commenced before we entered, and at that time the act in progress was that of jumping and turning somersets over a poor and patient quadruped of the equine species. There was no clown in "propria persona," but a poor _Mestizo_ supplied the place of one, for being so unfortunate as to make some awkward leaps at the commencement, and showing some concern at his failure, whenever his turn came, he was sure to be greeted with laughter and applause. The audience had elected him clown, nem. con.--thus proving the truth of the axiom,

"Some men have greatness thrust upon them."

To vary the scene, the manner of leaping was changed, and two men were placed upon the beast in a reversed position, which my sentimental friend, now becoming facetious, thought very peculiar; they were soon, however, both sprawling in the tan amidst screams of laughter, having been knocked off by this bungling individual.

This over, the music commenced. Such music! During the uproar an _attache_ of the establishment appeared all bespangled, with an implement such as haymakers use in the happy harvest time, with which he described eccentric circles round the ring, stepping gingerly backwards at each swoop. At this my sentimental friend became witty, and selling himself to Josephus Millerius Senior, inquired in a whisper if that act might not have been set down in the bills as "The Rake's Progress." Had no hopes for him now, but in a shaved head, low diet, and the _Water Cure_.

The proprietor stepped gracefully forth upon the smoothed tan to announce the grand scene--an act of riding two horses by himself, and a young lady--her first appearance in any ring! Indeed it appeared to be the first essay of all the performers.

With a grand flourish of the entire band, consisting of trombone, riddle and drum, two small Manilla ponies made their _entree_, accompanied by attendants enough to have borne them on bodily. Senor y Seniorita followed hand in hand, and introduced themselves, in character, with a graceful bow, a modest curtsy, and the disengaged hand on his heart, on the part of the gentleman as a token for both.

The lady was a.s.sisted to mount the inside pony, when the gentleman leaped lightly upon the off one. He was at first seated, as indeed was the female performer. At a sudden burst from the band, he started from his seat, _a la cavalier_, and bounding into the air, alighted upon the backs of the horses, a leg upon each. The lady was expected to have followed this graceful action, but its effect appeared to astonish the beasts, and the off steed, as mischievous a Mustang as ever munched at a manger, suspicious of a design to make him carry double, commenced curveting, and disturbed the equilibrium of the lady considerably. Then he seemed determined upon a separation "a vinculo," and spreading out, placed the gentleman in an awkward predicament, forcing him to make a stride like a pair of compa.s.ses in measuring a hemisphere, and stretching his tight and light-blue pantaloons to the very extent of their elasticity, a quant.i.ty of chalk from the saddle, marking the part which had come in contact with it. The disorganizing pony, after being well flogged, was forced back into his original position by his numerous attendants--_vi et armis_--and a.s.sisted in describing a semi-circle, with a few deviations, when suddenly stopping at the place of entrance, he caused the gentleman to perform an involuntary back somerset, and saluted him with a shower of kicks in his descent. But the undaunted Frenchman was soon upon his legs and the pony's back again, and then commenced a combat in which all the performers joined. The horses were whipped by the attendants, and kicked, plunged, and reared on their part. The proprietor expostulated with his lady co-actor, whom he threatened and coaxed in turn, but who evidently had a strong desire to discontinue the act; and it was amusing to watch the varying expression of his countenance, as, with frowning brow, and clenched hands, and such a grimace as a Frenchman only can produce, he menaced the lady, and "the pa.s.sing smile his features wore," when he turned round deprecatingly to the audience.

At last, a compromise having been effected, the horses were gotten fairly under way, and had attained considerable headway, but broaching to, the Senora was dismounted, and regaining her feet, made an exit with more speed than grace, and the performance was announced--concluded. But upon taking a peep, after the audience had retired, I saw one of the ponies, mounted by a Manilla man, running the gauntlet of four long whips around the ring, and felt certain his rider could not have enjoyed much pleasure from the act, for every now and then he caught a lash intended for the horse, and if the other naughty pony had to come in for a like portion, expect he had another rider.