Kathay: A Cruise in the China Seas Part 2

After exhausting my patience and finances at "Acow's," I returned to the ship to explore the environs of Whampoa. Our anchorage was at the head of the Reach, opposite a ship yard in "Newtown," where a large ship, the Prince de Joinville, was then in dock undergoing repairs. This yard was at that time in the possession of a Mr. Cowper, a yankee, if I am not misinformed, but had been originally established by a Chinaman. Every thing necessary for repairing a vessel appeared to be on hand, and Mr.

C. was then engaged in coppering the one on his dock.

Whampoa Reach is the anchorage for merchantmen, and is the most convenient place to Canton for that purpose. A large number of vessels were here receiving and awaiting cargoes, and the daily arrivals and departures of ships give it a cheerful aspect.

The old town of Whampoa is strictly Chinese, and separated from contact with the "outside barbarian," as much as is Canton, by its walls. It is true, you may be allowed to pa.s.s its gates, but run a risk of being hustled and pelted out of their vicinity.

Newtown is composed of traders, who are gradually leaving the "old town," which is some distance below, and is called Bamboo town. Both of these places are accessible, and have the interminable lane of shops, all the "same same," as in Canton.

Called upon Mr. Bonny, an American Missionary, who was then a resident at Newtown, but who hoped soon to settle in Whampoa, and was making arrangements for a house within its walls. He appeared devoted to his vocation, with strong hopes of success. Found him (it was night) engaged with several Chinese, the princ.i.p.al men of the village, to whom he was exhibiting a magic lantern, with which they seemed greatly pleased. It was a very superior instrument, and an excellent method of conveying to unpractised minds, many things, which otherwise must have remained mysteries to them. The motion of the earth, for instance, ill.u.s.trated by a ship rising above the horizon--the sidereal system, and the eclipses of the moon. He describes the population of this vicinity as being very dense, and ignorant. Their belief resembles the ancient mythology, for they have their Jupiter Tonans, or "thunder G.o.d," and other deities similar to those worshipped by the more cla.s.sical heathen of Rome and Greece. He has succeeded in partially disabusing the minds of some, but finds it requires great efforts to eradicate ideas so strongly implanted. May he have success in his disinterested labors! I should have earlier mentioned that Mr. Bonny speaks the Chinese language, and appears to convey his ideas with much fluency.

There is a bethel, or floating "seaman's chapel," anch.o.r.ed in the "Reach," which was presided over by the Rev. George Loomis, whom I had the pleasure to hear deliver an excellent discourse from the text: "And by one man sin entered into the world, and death by sin." In the course of his remarks he made a beautiful and touching allusion to the deaths of those two great men, Sir Robert Peel and General Taylor, the news of which had just reached us by mail.

Was pleased to see a numerous and attentive audience of shipmasters and seamen, and from the frank and pleasing address of Mr. L. cannot doubt but that he will have great success with this cla.s.s of men.

The bethel was in itself a very neat affair. The place devoted to public worship being about fifty feet by thirty, prepared with admirable adaptation for that purpose, and well ventilated. It contained, besides apartments for the pastor, a fine reading room, where a number of foreign papers were regularly filed, and a good library kept. Its roof was flat, and above this was another covering of matting which formed a fine sheltered promenade. Indeed, a building could hardly have been planned ash.o.r.e, comprising more commodious, convenient, or comfortable quarters, and I am indebted to its cool retreat for the remembrance of many an hour pa.s.sed pleasantly.

The Anniversary of our National Independence came round whilst we lay in Whampoa. It was recognized with due honor. The ship dressed with flags, and a national salute fired at meridian. A dinner was given to the officers by the American shipmasters and residents of the "Reach," which pa.s.sed off very pleasantly. The usual quant.i.ty of champagne and patriotism expended. Toasts proposed and drank, and the fact generally conceded that the United States were the greatest states on the face of the globe, and the "United Staters" the greatest people.

Our repairs completed we unmoored, and commenced to back and fill down the river until we had cleared the shipping, and then taking advantage of the tide, got into the bay and headed for Macao. Found the flagship at anchor in the outer roads, and after saluting and communicating with the Commodore, went into the Typa, and moored there.

The Typa is an anchorage inside the harbor, and is so called from an island which protects it from the sea. It has from four to four and a half fathoms water, and of course cannot be entered by very large vessels. Although in former times the largest sized East-Indiamen have gone in. They are now forced, if stopping at Macao, to anchor outside, abreast the town, and some four or five miles off.

Hong-Shan river, or the Broadway, commences here, and is a kind of a cut-off, navigated by junks from Canton to Macao.

The city of Macao, called first by the Portuguese, Port da Macao, from the name of a Chinese idol found there, is called Gaou, or Ou-moon by the Chinese, and occupies the southernmost point of the island of Heang-Shan.

After the discovery of the pa.s.sage to the East Indies around the Cape of Good Hope, by De Gama, who landed on the Malabar Coast in 1498, the Portuguese continued to navigate these seas, and were allowed by the Chinese a shelter on this point. In the year 1550, having obtained a foothold, by degrees they built themselves stone houses and forts, and commenced the foundation of a city.

About this time, they had established a profitable commerce with j.a.pan, China, and the Eastern Islands, and this settlement became the centre of an extensive trade, which increased until Macao grew into a place of considerable importance.

The Chinese government, however, in granting this favor to the Portuguese fenced it around with their usual caution, and placed many restrictions upon them. The point upon which Macao stands, is almost separated from the Island, the connection being an Isthmus of about three hundred feet; across which, about three miles from the Praya, a wall is built through which is a gateway, guarded by Chinese soldiers, and beyond which the Portuguese were not allowed to pa.s.s; and their munic.i.p.al government was restricted to the barrier. It was placed there in 1573.

When we were there the guard had been removed, and a part of the wall thrown down; the Governor Amaral having broken through more _barriers_ than this, previous to his murder--of which, anon.

CHAPTER V.

Pa.s.sage Ash.o.r.e--A-ti--The Praya--Forts--Governor's Road-- Description of Macao--Murder of Amaral--Manoeuvring of Seu and his Triumph--A new Governor--His Death--Council of Government--View from Guia Fort--Marques' Garden--Camoen's Grotto--Epitaph and Doggerel written there--A Beautiful Spot--Stealing Fire from the G.o.ds--Fate of Prometheus.

Leaving the Typa in a fast boat, we were soon opposite the town, when we were obliged to re-embark on board one of a fleet of Tanka boats, which put out from the sh.o.r.e as soon as our b.u.t.tons were discovered. Tanka means eggboat; they resemble an eggsh.e.l.l divided longitudinally, and are peculiar to Macao, the shoalness of the water preventing a landing in larger vessels. Were captured by A-ti, a laughing Chinese nymph, with a splendid set of the whitest teeth, and landed safely on the Praya, after purchasing our ransom with a Spanish coin, in value twenty-five cents.

The Praya is a fine promenade, extending in a semi-circle along the entire front of the city. On each of its points is a fortification, and at its right extremity the Plaza. On the part which winds past the Plaza, are placed stone seats, which are of a nature to retain much of the caloric dispensed by the sun during the hot days in summer.

This walk is well paved, with a stanch sea wall to protect it from the waves, which come in with considerable force, especially in the Typhoon season. It commands a view of the neighboring islands, the Typa and outer roads.

Back of the town, and overlooking it, is a hill, on which is placed an extensive work, called Fort Monte, which not only commands the town but the approaches from its rear.

From beyond the Campo gate, a fine, smooth, and well graded carriage way extends to the "Barrier;" and to the right of the "Gate," on an eminence, stands a well placed fort having guns bearing upon the Barrier.

There appear, indeed, to be forts wherever one can be stuck, and the wonder in regard to some of them is, how they ever got the guns into them, so inaccessible do they seem.

On the Governor's road, about three fourths of a mile from the town, is a fine garden, belonging to a French Abbe. It is arranged with much taste: in its centre was a small mosque-like temple, whilst at each corner of the enclosure were towers of the same style. The road is the favorite promenade and drive, and upon it, at the season when we were there, were to be seen some very fine equipages, princ.i.p.ally belonging to persons from Hong-Kong and Canton.

Macao, like other Portuguese towns, has many churches and its quantum of priests. The cathedral is the best looking building, although not so large as some of the others. It had lately been repaired, and both internally and externally presented a gay and gaudy appearance, in strong contrast with the decayed condition of the houses surrounding it.

There is the ruin of the church of "Mater Dei," which had been destroyed by fire, the entire front of which still stands, covered with carving, a majestic monument of the pride and power of Rome.

The other churches, although their interiors are kept in some repair for the purpose of worship, have crumbling and mouldering walls, proving that "_Tempus, edax rerum_" has not spared them, and in the absence of rejuvenating art, still uses his remorseless tooth upon the softening stone.

Indeed, what strikes the stranger most sadly and forcibly as he saunters through the streets, is the universal evidence of decay. It is melancholy to see buildings, which must once have been magnificent, slowly sinking into rain. The mind cannot help picturing these buildings, brilliant with beauty, and resounding with festivity, when Macao was the depot for the trade with China, with a fleet of all nations filling its harbor, and its storehouses teeming with the rich merchandise of the East.

But British perseverance, and Yankee enterprise, have a.s.serted the supremacy of the Anglo-Saxon race, and the vessels, which formerly made this their port after their voyage around the Cape, now discharge and receive their cargoes at Whampoa and Hong-Kong, whilst only occasionally the masts of a man of war, or of some straggling merchantman, are to be seen in the harbor of Macao.

The murder of Amaral in 1849, is said to have produced a prejudicial effect upon the interests of Macao, but I cannot see how that could have influenced it in this manner, as the difficulty had not extended to open war, and a Chinaman would have been willing to trade if he found it profitable, even should such have been the case; and had the Portuguese artillery been echoing amongst the rocky hills of Ou-moon, you would have found him seeking the almighty dollar

"Even at the cannon's mouth."

The particulars of the Governor's murder, as I could obtain them, are these: Ioao Maria Ferreira do Amaral, Governor of the provinces of Macao, Timor, and Solor, was a.s.sa.s.sinated near the "Barrier," on the 22d day of August, 1849. It appeared by the confession of Chang-asin, alias Chou-asin, that an acquaintance of his, named Shing-Chi-liang, on account of the Governor having made roads without the Campo gates, by which the _graves of his ancestors were destroyed_, was so enraged thereat, that he determined to murder him in order to satisfy his revenge. For the purpose of a.s.sisting in this design he hired two Chinese, Ko-Ahong and Li-Apau, and charged Chou-asin, together with two other Chinamen, Chou-ayan and Chen-afat, to act as guards to prevent people from approaching. To this they all agreed, and hearing that the Governor would go out on that day for recreation, proceeded to waylay him.

Towards evening, when it was twilight, Shing-Chi-liang seeing Amaral, the Governor, approach on horseback, went up to him under the pretence that he had a pet.i.tion to hand him, saying that he had a complaint to prefer, and whilst Amaral was stretching out his hand to receive the paper, Shing-Chi-liang drew a sharp knife he had concealed in the handle of his umbrella, and commenced stabbing him in the arm and shoulder, until he fell from his horse, when Shing-Chi-liang immediately cut off his head and hand, and they all ran, each his own way. Chou-ayan and Chen-afat were killed in an engagement with the English, having, with himself, fled to Hiang-Kang, a seaport, from whence they went over to the pirates, and he was afterwards seized by the Chinese government and taken to Canton, where, after making this confession, he prayed for mercy.

A long and not very amicable correspondence was held by a Portuguese Council of Government, formed at Macao upon Amaral's death, and Seu, Governor-General at Canton, in which the Council demanded the head and hand of their murdered Governor, and Seu required in return three Chinese soldiers, (arrested by the Portuguese authorities at the Barrier gate after the murder, and detained in prison at Macao, as accessory to the deed,) as an exchange for the remains of the Governor. The Council denounced this demand as infamous, denied the soldiers, and put the question to Seu, if he intended to keep possession of these mutilated remains of a brave man, cowardly slain, because he is conscious of having acquired them by means which, in his judgment, give him a right to traffic with them, regardless of const.i.tuting himself by this act a partic.i.p.ator in the crime which gave them into his possession; also adding, that, protesting against his conduct, they would hold him responsible for the a.s.sa.s.sination of the Most Excellent Governor Amaral, and for the retention of his hand and head, which they would make known to the world by means of a manifesto.

Seu answered, that the murderer of Amaral, Shing-Chi-liang, had been apprehended, tried, sentenced, and executed.

That in consequence of his confession, the place where the head and hand had been buried was discovered, and that a deputed officer had been sent to deliver them up, but the council still detaining the three soldiers apprehended at the Barrier, the officer did not dare to take upon himself the responsibility, and concludes his dispatch, with true Chinese sententiousness, in these words: "Here is the cause of the delay and of this confusion. All things should be managed with reflection, and in a proper way. Obstinacy cannot bring affairs to a conclusion," &c., &c.

Upon the 29th of the November succeeding, the Council published their manifesto, in which Seu and the Chinese authorities are accused of connivance in the murder of Amaral. This, Seu, who is evidently not to be written down, answers by accounting for the disposal of the murderer of the Governor, and his accomplices, and sends the confession of Chou-asin. Matters remained in this position until the 24th of December of the same year, when the Macao Council sent the three Chinese prisoners to Seu, and a.s.suming that these men, on duty at the time at the Barrier, were at least cognizant of the murder of Amaral, demand their trial, informing Seu at the same time, that in placing them in his hands, they hold him responsible for them. When Seu had obtained these men, after some delay, he sends the head and hand, which were delivered to a commission appointed by the Council to receive them, on board a Lorcha, off the Praya Grande. They were conveyed to the cathedral, and after funeral service had been performed, placed in consecrated ground with solemn ceremony. Thus His Excellency Governor-General Sen gained his point. What became of the three Chinamen I did not learn, but suppose they were allowed to escape.

A new governor was commissioned and sent out in the Portuguese corvette Don Joas Primero. Pedro Alexandrino da Cunha, captain in the royal navy, reached Macao on the second of May, 1850, and immediately a.s.sumed the reins of government.

It was now supposed that something more efficacious than writing would be resorted to; but he died very suddenly on the sixth of July following, within about one month before the anniversary of the a.s.sa.s.sination of his predecessor. A singular coincidence.

Some have been bold enough to a.s.sert that his sudden demise was to be attributed to the effects of poison administered by Chinese servants, bribed by their government, but I think that the report of his death from cholera is correct.

After the death of Da Cunha, the administration of government devolved again upon the "Council," of which D. Jeronimo Joze de Matta, Bishop of the Province, was the head, a.s.sisted by a Chief Justice, Mayor, Judge, Procurator, and Fiscal.

This was not very popular, as what government can be, to a declining people, who will not exert themselves, but complain to Hercules, without putting their own shoulders to the wheel.

The walks in the neighborhood of Macao are pleasant, and the views very fine; among the best are those from Penha hill on the southern point of the peninsula, and Guia fort on its northern side. From the latter position the entire possessions of this Portuguese province can be comprised at a glance, and Macao lies beneath you a miniature city, with pigmies moving along the Praya and its princ.i.p.al streets. This fort, from its commanding position, is used as a telegraphic station, and news of any unusual event is communicated to the town by signals.

From its elevated ramparts the eye takes in the course of the Hong-shan, or "Broadway;" Casa Branca; Ilha Verda; Camoen's grotto; the Barrier and Barrier forts; the harbors, both inner and outer; the Lapa hills, and numerous islands, as far as it can reach.

Camoen's grotto is situated on an eminence within the grounds of a Portuguese gentleman, Senhor L. Marques, which, without the attraction which would draw one to the poet's place of meditation, are themselves well worthy of a visit.

I went there in company with some Peruvian gentlemen, and was at first doubtful of the propriety of trespa.s.sing upon private property, but my scruples being overcome by my curiosity, and the a.s.surance of one of the Peruvians that his acquaintance with the Senhor Marques would be a sufficient pa.s.sport, we proceeded.