In The Hands Of A Chef Part 21

2. Form the dough into a mound and then, using the heel of your hand, gradually push all the dough away from you, flattening out the lumps. Continue until all the dough is flat. Form the dough into a mound and repeat the process one more time. Do not work the b.u.t.ter completely into the mixture-the streaks of b.u.t.ter are what will make the crust flaky. Form the dough into a mound and then, using the heel of your hand, gradually push all the dough away from you, flattening out the lumps. Continue until all the dough is flat. Form the dough into a mound and repeat the process one more time. Do not work the b.u.t.ter completely into the mixture-the streaks of b.u.t.ter are what will make the crust flaky.

3. Shape the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate at least 1 hour to allow it to rest before using. Shape the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate at least 1 hour to allow it to rest before using.

Blind Baking-Prebaking Piecrusts and Tart Sh.e.l.ls Prebaking a piecrust or tart sh.e.l.l without the filling is called "blind baking." By baking the crust ahead of time, you avoid the problem of a juicy filling soaking into the raw pastry dough and preventing it from cooking thoroughly. sh.e.l.l without the filling is called "blind baking." By baking the crust ahead of time, you avoid the problem of a juicy filling soaking into the raw pastry dough and preventing it from cooking thoroughly.

1 recipe Basic Pastry Dough (page 343) 1. Place the dough on a floured pastry board, countertop, or plastic pastry sheet and roll it out to the desired size. Be sure to roll the dough to an even thickness, or the thinner parts of the crust will burn when baking. Place the dough on a floured pastry board, countertop, or plastic pastry sheet and roll it out to the desired size. Be sure to roll the dough to an even thickness, or the thinner parts of the crust will burn when baking.

2. Carefully fold the dough in quarters, transfer to the pie plate or tart pan, and unfold. Ease the dough into the corners of the pan; if you stretch it, it will tear. Pull the dough up over the edge of the pie plate or tin so it hangs over by about 1 inch. Then roll it to rest just over the edge and crimp the edge decoratively. The dough will shrink a bit as it bakes, so this slight overhang will help it from falling to the bottom. Put the crust into the fridge for at least 30 minutes or the freezer for 15 minutes. Chilling will help to keep the dough from shrinking. Carefully fold the dough in quarters, transfer to the pie plate or tart pan, and unfold. Ease the dough into the corners of the pan; if you stretch it, it will tear. Pull the dough up over the edge of the pie plate or tin so it hangs over by about 1 inch. Then roll it to rest just over the edge and crimp the edge decoratively. The dough will shrink a bit as it bakes, so this slight overhang will help it from falling to the bottom. Put the crust into the fridge for at least 30 minutes or the freezer for 15 minutes. Chilling will help to keep the dough from shrinking.

3. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

4. Line the dough with baking parchment or foil and then fill with weights. You can use uncooked beans, rice, ball bearings, loose change, or the marble-shaped ceramic pie weights designed specifically for this purpose. The point is to fill the pan with something that will keep the dough flat when it bakes. Line the dough with baking parchment or foil and then fill with weights. You can use uncooked beans, rice, ball bearings, loose change, or the marble-shaped ceramic pie weights designed specifically for this purpose. The point is to fill the pan with something that will keep the dough flat when it bakes.

5. Bake in the center of the oven for 15 minutes. Carefully remove the foil and weights. If the edges of the crust have already started to brown, cover them with foil. Continue baking until the crust is golden brown, about 8 minutes. Let the crust cool on a wire rack. Bake in the center of the oven for 15 minutes. Carefully remove the foil and weights. If the edges of the crust have already started to brown, cover them with foil. Continue baking until the crust is golden brown, about 8 minutes. Let the crust cool on a wire rack.

Pumpkin and Apple Tart As soon as a holiday food tradition begins to feel oppressive, it's time to give it a rest, if only temporarily I love pumpkin pie, but I've grown to prefer it during pumpkin season in late October and early November rather than waiting until Thanksgiving (if I were king, Thanksgiving would be in October, but that's another story). By then, the experience of baking several dozen pies for charity has pretty much blunted whatever appeal a straightforward pumpkin pie might hold for me, and my dessert receptors are looking for a new thrill. This is a New England riff on a traditional Norman apple tart. Instead of the almond cream in the original, the tart uses pumpkin custard; the apples lend a slightly acidic quality, and amaretti crumbs add a little bit of crunch. It's an altogether sharper, lighter dessert that still tastes like comfort food, a necessary element for any holiday tradition. food tradition begins to feel oppressive, it's time to give it a rest, if only temporarily I love pumpkin pie, but I've grown to prefer it during pumpkin season in late October and early November rather than waiting until Thanksgiving (if I were king, Thanksgiving would be in October, but that's another story). By then, the experience of baking several dozen pies for charity has pretty much blunted whatever appeal a straightforward pumpkin pie might hold for me, and my dessert receptors are looking for a new thrill. This is a New England riff on a traditional Norman apple tart. Instead of the almond cream in the original, the tart uses pumpkin custard; the apples lend a slightly acidic quality, and amaretti crumbs add a little bit of crunch. It's an altogether sharper, lighter dessert that still tastes like comfort food, a necessary element for any holiday tradition.

MAKES ONE 11-INCH TART.

2 large baking apples, such as Macoun cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted 3 extra-large eggs, at room temperature 1 cup packed dark brown sugar 2 cups pumpkin puree 1 cup heavy cream, at room temperature teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground allspice teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract One 11-inch tart sh.e.l.l made with Basic Pastry Dough (page 343) and prebaked in a tin with a removable bottom (see page 344) 4 Italian amaretti macaroons, roughly crumbled Whipped cream or premium vanilla ice cream (optional) DO AHEAD: Make the dough and prebake the crust a couple of hours before a.s.sembling the tart. Allow time for all of the filling ingredients to come to room temperature before you use them, or the pumpkin custard won't blend properly. Make the dough and prebake the crust a couple of hours before a.s.sembling the tart. Allow time for all of the filling ingredients to come to room temperature before you use them, or the pumpkin custard won't blend properly.

1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Peel and core the apples, then cut them into Mi-inch-thick slices. Toss the apple slices in a bowl with cup of the granulated sugar, teaspoon of the cinnamon, tablespoon of the lemon juice, and the melted b.u.t.ter. Peel and core the apples, then cut them into Mi-inch-thick slices. Toss the apple slices in a bowl with cup of the granulated sugar, teaspoon of the cinnamon, tablespoon of the lemon juice, and the melted b.u.t.ter.

3. Beat the eggs and brown sugar together in a large bowl until the sugar is completely dissolved and the eggs are foamy. Add the pumpkin, cream, the remaining 1 teaspoons cinnamon, the ground ginger, allspice, pepper, the grated ginger, salt, the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and the vanilla and beat together until thoroughly mixed. Pour the pumpkin custard into the tart sh.e.l.l. Starting at the outside of the tart, arrange the apple slices in overlapping concentric rings, covering the custard completely. Sprinkle the apples with the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Beat the eggs and brown sugar together in a large bowl until the sugar is completely dissolved and the eggs are foamy. Add the pumpkin, cream, the remaining 1 teaspoons cinnamon, the ground ginger, allspice, pepper, the grated ginger, salt, the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and the vanilla and beat together until thoroughly mixed. Pour the pumpkin custard into the tart sh.e.l.l. Starting at the outside of the tart, arrange the apple slices in overlapping concentric rings, covering the custard completely. Sprinkle the apples with the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar.

4. Bake until the custard is set and the apples are tender and caramelized, about 1 hour. Discreedy lift an apple near the center of the tart and insert a knife into the pumpkin custard. When the custard is set, the knife will emerge moist but clean. You can broil the tart briefly if the apples haven't caramelized enough. Cool on a wire rack. Bake until the custard is set and the apples are tender and caramelized, about 1 hour. Discreedy lift an apple near the center of the tart and insert a knife into the pumpkin custard. When the custard is set, the knife will emerge moist but clean. You can broil the tart briefly if the apples haven't caramelized enough. Cool on a wire rack.

5. When the tart is cool, remove the sides of the tart tin. Just before serving, sprinkle with the amaretti crumbs. Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, if desired. When the tart is cool, remove the sides of the tart tin. Just before serving, sprinkle with the amaretti crumbs. Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, if desired.

NOTE: Tart sh.e.l.ls, with their exposed sides, seem much prettier to me than ordinary piecrusts, where the dessert often seems sunken into a pie plate. If you find piecrust easier, or you don't have access to a tart tin with a removable metal ring, you can make this recipe in a prebaked 10-inch piecrust. Add a few minutes to the pie's cooking time because of the greater depth of the custard. Tart sh.e.l.ls, with their exposed sides, seem much prettier to me than ordinary piecrusts, where the dessert often seems sunken into a pie plate. If you find piecrust easier, or you don't have access to a tart tin with a removable metal ring, you can make this recipe in a prebaked 10-inch piecrust. Add a few minutes to the pie's cooking time because of the greater depth of the custard.

Heather's Cranberry Chocolate Pecan Tart Heather Miller was my pastry chef for many years, and when she married and moved out of town, I lost a great talent. She invented this revisionist version of a Southern cla.s.sic for one of our winter menus. The addition of chocolate and cranberries are unexpected accents to this otherwise familiar flavor. chef for many years, and when she married and moved out of town, I lost a great talent. She invented this revisionist version of a Southern cla.s.sic for one of our winter menus. The addition of chocolate and cranberries are unexpected accents to this otherwise familiar flavor.

MAKE ONE 11-INCH TART.

1 ounce bittersweet chocolate, coa.r.s.ely chopped 2 cups pecan halves, toasted (see page 16) cup dried cranberries One 11-inch tart sh.e.l.l made with Basic Pastry Dough (page 343) and prebaked in a tin with removable sides (see page 344) 4 extra-large eggs, at room temperature 1 cups packed dark brown sugar cup light corn syrup cup mola.s.ses 6 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted 1 teaspoon vanilla extract cup dark rum teaspoon kosher salt DO AHEAD: Make the dough and prebake the crust a couple of hours before a.s.sembling the tart. Make the dough and prebake the crust a couple of hours before a.s.sembling the tart.

1. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

2. Distribute the chocolate, pecans, and cranberries evenly in the tart sh.e.l.l. Distribute the chocolate, pecans, and cranberries evenly in the tart sh.e.l.l.

3. Beat the eggs in a large bowl until foamy. Add the remaining ingredients and beat until the sugar dissolves and everything is well blended. Pour the mixture into the tart sh.e.l.l. Beat the eggs in a large bowl until foamy. Add the remaining ingredients and beat until the sugar dissolves and everything is well blended. Pour the mixture into the tart sh.e.l.l.

4. Bake until set, 35 to 40 minutes. Allow to cool for at least 30 minutes on a wire rack. Bake until set, 35 to 40 minutes. Allow to cool for at least 30 minutes on a wire rack.

5. When the tart is cool, remove the sides of the tart tin and serve. When the tart is cool, remove the sides of the tart tin and serve.

Mascarpone Fig Tart Figs come into season in August, at the end of our family vacation, when the start of school and return to work loom just around the corner. I a.s.sociate figs with sun and water and the sadness of saying goodbye. With their honey-like flavor, fresh figs require little enhancement. This is a rustic French-style tart that uses mascarpone as the base of a mild custard rather than cream. August, at the end of our family vacation, when the start of school and return to work loom just around the corner. I a.s.sociate figs with sun and water and the sadness of saying goodbye. With their honey-like flavor, fresh figs require little enhancement. This is a rustic French-style tart that uses mascarpone as the base of a mild custard rather than cream.

MAKES ONE 11-INCH TART.

8 fresh figs (about 1 ounces each), stems removed and cut in half lengthwise Grated zest and juice of 1 orange 3 extra-large eggs, at room temperature cup packed dark brown sugar 8 ounces (1 cup) mascarpone Juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon kosher salt One 11-inch prebaked tart sh.e.l.l made with Basic Pastry Dough (page 343) and prebaked in a tin with removable sides (see page 344) cup hazelnuts, toasted and coa.r.s.ely chopped (see page 16) 2 tablespoon confectioners' sugar, or as needed DO AHEAD: Make the dough and prebake the crust a couple of hours before a.s.sembling the tart. Make the dough and prebake the crust a couple of hours before a.s.sembling the tart.

1. Toss the figs in a bowl with the orange zest and juice and allow to macerate for 30 minutes. Toss the figs in a bowl with the orange zest and juice and allow to macerate for 30 minutes.

2. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

3. Beat the eggs in a large bowl with the sugar until the sugar dissolves and the eggs are thick. Add the mascarpone, lemon juice, flour, and salt and mix well. Beat the eggs in a large bowl with the sugar until the sugar dissolves and the eggs are thick. Add the mascarpone, lemon juice, flour, and salt and mix well.

4. Pour the custard into the tart sh.e.l.l. Remove the figs from the orange juice and drain well; discard or drink the juice. Arrange the figs cut side up in circles on top of the custard. Sprinkle with the hazelnuts. Pour the custard into the tart sh.e.l.l. Remove the figs from the orange juice and drain well; discard or drink the juice. Arrange the figs cut side up in circles on top of the custard. Sprinkle with the hazelnuts.

5. Bake the tart on the lowest oven shelf for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350F and bake for an additional 30 minutes, or until the custard is just set. It should still wiggle slightly in the middle. Cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes. Bake the tart on the lowest oven shelf for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350F and bake for an additional 30 minutes, or until the custard is just set. It should still wiggle slightly in the middle. Cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes.

6. When the tart is cool, remove the sides of the pan, sift a light dusting of confectioners' sugar over the tart, and serve. When the tart is cool, remove the sides of the pan, sift a light dusting of confectioners' sugar over the tart, and serve.

Prune Plum and Walnut b.u.t.ter Cake I'm a sucker for single-layer b.u.t.ter cakes, especially ones with fruit and nuts. Over the years, I must have tried a hundred different recipes and could never remember which I liked or which I had problems with. Finally I decided to sit down and figure out a recipe I could depend on. This is a great midsummer cake when prune plums (the small narrow plums that are turned into-surprise!-prunes) are available, but you can alter the recipe according to the available fruit-figs, regular plums, or peaches-as long as your choice is soft and ripe. b.u.t.ter cakes, especially ones with fruit and nuts. Over the years, I must have tried a hundred different recipes and could never remember which I liked or which I had problems with. Finally I decided to sit down and figure out a recipe I could depend on. This is a great midsummer cake when prune plums (the small narrow plums that are turned into-surprise!-prunes) are available, but you can alter the recipe according to the available fruit-figs, regular plums, or peaches-as long as your choice is soft and ripe.

All the ingredients should be at room temperature except for the b.u.t.ter, which should be a little cooler (about 65F).

MAKES 8 SERVINGS.

9 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour 12 prune plums, cut in half and pitted 1 cups sugar cup brandy 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt 2 extra-large eggs, at room temperature cup ground toasted walnuts (see page 16) 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Grease a 9-inch Springform pan with 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter and dust it with 1 tablespoon of the flour. Preheat the oven to 350F. Grease a 9-inch Springform pan with 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter and dust it with 1 tablespoon of the flour.

2. Toss the prunes with 2 tablespoons of the sugar and the brandy; set aside. Toss the prunes with 2 tablespoons of the sugar and the brandy; set aside.

3. Cream the remaining 8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a large bowl with 1 cup of the sugar, the lemon zest, and vanilla until light and fluffy. Sift the remaining 1 cup flour, the baking powder, and salt together and beat into the creamed b.u.t.ter. Cream the remaining 8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a large bowl with 1 cup of the sugar, the lemon zest, and vanilla until light and fluffy. Sift the remaining 1 cup flour, the baking powder, and salt together and beat into the creamed b.u.t.ter.

4. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs until they start to foam. Do not overbeat, or the cake will be tough. Add the eggs and ground walnuts to the flour and b.u.t.ter mixture. Mix well. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs until they start to foam. Do not overbeat, or the cake will be tough. Add the eggs and ground walnuts to the flour and b.u.t.ter mixture. Mix well.

5. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared pan. Arrange the plums on top in rings. Sprinkle with any remaining brandy-sugar syrup and the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared pan. Arrange the plums on top in rings. Sprinkle with any remaining brandy-sugar syrup and the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar.

6. Bake for 1 hour, or until the cake is golden brown on top and a toothpick inserted into the cake (not the plums) comes out clean. Let cool for 10 minutes before removing the sides of the Springform pan and serving. Bake for 1 hour, or until the cake is golden brown on top and a toothpick inserted into the cake (not the plums) comes out clean. Let cool for 10 minutes before removing the sides of the Springform pan and serving.

Lemon-Almond b.u.t.ter Cake From, the standpoint of technique, this cake seems almost identical to the Prune Plum and Walnut b.u.t.ter Cake (page 349), but the subst.i.tution of homemade lemon curd for fresh fruit completely transforms its character. The fruit topping in the previous recipe moves it in the direction of a tart; here the lemon curd, cake, and whipped cream begin to operate like a fresher version of trifle, the traditional English dessert of strained fruit folded into ladyfingers or stale cake, where the juice from the fruit (or some sherry) revives the cake. this cake seems almost identical to the Prune Plum and Walnut b.u.t.ter Cake (page 349), but the subst.i.tution of homemade lemon curd for fresh fruit completely transforms its character. The fruit topping in the previous recipe moves it in the direction of a tart; here the lemon curd, cake, and whipped cream begin to operate like a fresher version of trifle, the traditional English dessert of strained fruit folded into ladyfingers or stale cake, where the juice from the fruit (or some sherry) revives the cake.

If you're in a hurry and can't spare 1 hours for the lemon curd to cool in the refrigerator, you can shave some time from the recipe by chilling a bowl in the freezer. Strain the warm curd into the chilled bowl-it will cool faster.

All the ingredients should be at room temperature except for the b.u.t.ter, which should be a little cooler (about 65F).

MAKES 8 SERVINGS.

LEMON CURD.

Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 4 extra-large eggs 6 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into -inch cubes CAKE.

9 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour 1 cup plus 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt 2 extra-large eggs cup ground toasted almonds (see page 16) 2 tablespoons sliced almonds, toasted (see page 16) GARNISH.

1 tablespoon almond liqueur (optional) cup heavy cream (optional) 2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar 1. Combine the lemon zest and juice in a nonreactive saucepan with the sugar and eggs and beat well. Add the b.u.t.ter and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture thickens into curd. Be sure to keep sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan during the few minutes this takes; you don't want the eggs to scramble before the curd forms. If you're the nervous type, make the curd in a heatproof bowl over a pot of boiling water (the bottom of the bowl shouldn't touch the water). The curd will just take a little longer to thicken, about 5 minutes. Strain the curd into a bowl and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface so a skin doesn't form. Refrigerate until cool, at least 1 hours. Combine the lemon zest and juice in a nonreactive saucepan with the sugar and eggs and beat well. Add the b.u.t.ter and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture thickens into curd. Be sure to keep sc.r.a.ping the bottom of the pan during the few minutes this takes; you don't want the eggs to scramble before the curd forms. If you're the nervous type, make the curd in a heatproof bowl over a pot of boiling water (the bottom of the bowl shouldn't touch the water). The curd will just take a little longer to thicken, about 5 minutes. Strain the curd into a bowl and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface so a skin doesn't form. Refrigerate until cool, at least 1 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 350F. Grease a 9-inch Springform pan with 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter and dust it with 1 tablespoon of the flour. Preheat the oven to 350F. Grease a 9-inch Springform pan with 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter and dust it with 1 tablespoon of the flour.

3. Cream the remaining 8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a large bowl with 1 cup of the sugar until light and fluffy. Sift the remaining 1 cup flour, the baking powder, and salt together and stir into the creamed b.u.t.ter. Cream the remaining 8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a large bowl with 1 cup of the sugar until light and fluffy. Sift the remaining 1 cup flour, the baking powder, and salt together and stir into the creamed b.u.t.ter.

4. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs until they start to foam. Do not overheat, or the cake will be tough. Add the eggs and ground almonds to the flour and b.u.t.ter mixture, mixing well. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs until they start to foam. Do not overheat, or the cake will be tough. Add the eggs and ground almonds to the flour and b.u.t.ter mixture, mixing well.

5. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared pan. Drop 8 individual tablespoons of lemon curd evenly around the outside of the cake, leaving a 1-inch border around the edge. Try to place the curd so there is an even amount of cake batter between each dollop of curd. Drop 3 tablespoons curd in the center. Refrigerate any remaining curd for another use (hint: breakfast toast). Sprinkle the top of the cake with the sliced almonds and 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, according to taste. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared pan. Drop 8 individual tablespoons of lemon curd evenly around the outside of the cake, leaving a 1-inch border around the edge. Try to place the curd so there is an even amount of cake batter between each dollop of curd. Drop 3 tablespoons curd in the center. Refrigerate any remaining curd for another use (hint: breakfast toast). Sprinkle the top of the cake with the sliced almonds and 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar, according to taste.

6. Bake until the cake is toasty brown on top and a toothpick or knife inserted into the cake comes out clean (be sure not to insert it near the curd), about 40 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes, then remove the sides of the springform pan and let cool completely on a wire rack. Bake until the cake is toasty brown on top and a toothpick or knife inserted into the cake comes out clean (be sure not to insert it near the curd), about 40 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes, then remove the sides of the springform pan and let cool completely on a wire rack.

7. If serving the cake with whipped cream, add the almond liqueur to the heavy cream and beat until the cream is stiff. Sift a thin, even layer of confectioners' sugar over the top of the cake. If serving the cake with whipped cream, add the almond liqueur to the heavy cream and beat until the cream is stiff. Sift a thin, even layer of confectioners' sugar over the top of the cake.

8. Present the cake at the table, and offer the almond whipped cream on the side. Present the cake at the table, and offer the almond whipped cream on the side.

Sweet Grape Focaccia With focaccia as one of the standard options in hip sandwich shops, in bread baskets, and even on supermarket bakery shelves, it's difficult to imagine that before the 1980s it was all but unknown outside Italian neighborhoods. Although focaccia is made from yeasted dough, just like pizza, it's generally presented as a flavored flat loaf of bread rather than as a crust with toppings. When I was chef at Michela's, I began experimenting with flatbread and sweet flavorings, especially grapes and chocolate. Not too long ago, someone pointed out a grape focaccia recipe to me in Carol Field's the standard options in hip sandwich shops, in bread baskets, and even on supermarket bakery shelves, it's difficult to imagine that before the 1980s it was all but unknown outside Italian neighborhoods. Although focaccia is made from yeasted dough, just like pizza, it's generally presented as a flavored flat loaf of bread rather than as a crust with toppings. When I was chef at Michela's, I began experimenting with flatbread and sweet flavorings, especially grapes and chocolate. Not too long ago, someone pointed out a grape focaccia recipe to me in Carol Field's Celebrating Italy Celebrating Italy, which spoke of Tuscan vineyard workers pressing wine grapes into their own focaccia. (There really is nothing new under the sun.) This version makes a great picnic dessert-it's simple to make and travels well.

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS.

2 pounds green and red seedless grapes, stems removed (or wine grapes, for a more intense flavor, if you don't mind the seeds) cup sugar teaspoon crushed fennel seeds teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 recipe Basic Pizza Dough (page 123), at room temperature Flour for rolling out the dough 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

2. Toss the grapes in a medium bowl with the sugar, fennel seeds, and pepper. Toss the grapes in a medium bowl with the sugar, fennel seeds, and pepper.

3. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and roll it out into a rectangle, roughly the size of a 1417-inch sheet pan, and inch thick. Rub a sheet pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and transfer the dough to the pan. Rub the dough with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Dimple the dough with your fingertips. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and roll it out into a rectangle, roughly the size of a 1417-inch sheet pan, and inch thick. Rub a sheet pan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and transfer the dough to the pan. Rub the dough with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Dimple the dough with your fingertips.

4. Distribute the grapes evenly over the dough and sprinkle with any remaining sugar, fennel, and pepper. Distribute the grapes evenly over the dough and sprinkle with any remaining sugar, fennel, and pepper.

5. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. The focaccia should be caramelized around the edges and golden brown on the bottom. Allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. The focaccia should be caramelized around the edges and golden brown on the bottom. Allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving.

Ginger Shortbread Aside from my introduction of ginger, this is a cla.s.sic shortbread recipe. Because the flavors of b.u.t.ter and ginger are so unadulterated, shortbread is the ideal opportunity to exploit the taste of a fine unsalted European-style b.u.t.ter. The same is true of the ginger. Ground ginger ages rapidly, turning musty after a few months. Buy a small amount of freshly ground ginger at a whole-foods market for a bright sharp flavor. Shortbread will keep for 4 to 5 days in a tightly sealed container at room temperature and up to a month if frozen. ginger, this is a cla.s.sic shortbread recipe. Because the flavors of b.u.t.ter and ginger are so unadulterated, shortbread is the ideal opportunity to exploit the taste of a fine unsalted European-style b.u.t.ter. The same is true of the ginger. Ground ginger ages rapidly, turning musty after a few months. Buy a small amount of freshly ground ginger at a whole-foods market for a bright sharp flavor. Shortbread will keep for 4 to 5 days in a tightly sealed container at room temperature and up to a month if frozen.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) high-quality unsalted b.u.t.ter, at cool room temperature (about 65F) cup sugar 1 teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon fine sea salt 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Cream the b.u.t.ter in a large bowl with the sugar, ginger, and salt until light and fluffy. Stir in the flour until just combined. The dough will be quite stiff. Cream the b.u.t.ter in a large bowl with the sugar, ginger, and salt until light and fluffy. Stir in the flour until just combined. The dough will be quite stiff.

3. Press the dough into a 10-inch pie plate and smooth the top. Using the tines of a fork, p.r.i.c.k a pattern into the dough, dividing the shortbread into 8 wedges. Press the dough into a 10-inch pie plate and smooth the top. Using the tines of a fork, p.r.i.c.k a pattern into the dough, dividing the shortbread into 8 wedges.

4. Bake for 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the shortbread comes out clean and the shortbread is firm and lightly golden. While still warm, cut the wedges. Allow to cool. Bake for 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the shortbread comes out clean and the shortbread is firm and lightly golden. While still warm, cut the wedges. Allow to cool.

Crema Spessa with Caramelized Raspberry Sauce Crema spessa, literally, "thick cream" in Italian, is a rich baked custard with a silken, quivery texture. This is another recipe I inherited when I became the chef of Michela's, one of their dessert standards whose origins had been lost over the years. Northern Italians have historically had greater access to fresh dairy products than the inhabitants of the poorer South, and they use custard in all kinds of desserts, from the eggless panna cotta of Piedmont to tarts to this simple cream custard. In style, it's similar to a French creme brulee-with a caramelized raspberry sauce instead of the caramelized sugar on top. in Italian, is a rich baked custard with a silken, quivery texture. This is another recipe I inherited when I became the chef of Michela's, one of their dessert standards whose origins had been lost over the years. Northern Italians have historically had greater access to fresh dairy products than the inhabitants of the poorer South, and they use custard in all kinds of desserts, from the eggless panna cotta of Piedmont to tarts to this simple cream custard. In style, it's similar to a French creme brulee-with a caramelized raspberry sauce instead of the caramelized sugar on top.

You can prepare the uncooked custard up to a day ahead. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before baking so it comes to room temperature before entering the oven.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter for coating the ramekins CREMA.

2 cups heavy cream cup sugar Pinch of kosher salt 1 small vanilla bean, split lengthwise in half 6 extra-large egg yolks, at room temperature SAUCE.

1 cups fresh raspberries 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons water, or as needed 1 to 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, as needed GARNISH.

cup fresh raspberries 4 sprigs mint 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. b.u.t.ter four 4-ounce ramekins. Preheat the oven to 350F. b.u.t.ter four 4-ounce ramekins.

2. Mix the cream, sugar, and salt together in a large saucepan. Using a paring knife, sc.r.a.pe the sticky ma.s.s of tiny vanilla seeds out of the pod and into the pan. Take care to leave as few as possible on the knife blade, or on the sides of the saucepan. Add the pod. Steep over very low heat for 15 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. Mix the cream, sugar, and salt together in a large saucepan. Using a paring knife, sc.r.a.pe the sticky ma.s.s of tiny vanilla seeds out of the pod and into the pan. Take care to leave as few as possible on the knife blade, or on the sides of the saucepan. Add the pod. Steep over very low heat for 15 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

3. Beat the egg yolks in a large bowl until smooth, then beat in the room-temperature cream mixture. (If you're making the custard ahead, cover and refrigerate the mixture. Bring up to room temperature before proceeding.) Beat the egg yolks in a large bowl until smooth, then beat in the room-temperature cream mixture. (If you're making the custard ahead, cover and refrigerate the mixture. Bring up to room temperature before proceeding.) 4. Remove the vanilla pods from the custard, then pour the mixture into the ramekins. Place in a baking pan and add enough hot water to the pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 40 minutes, or until the custards are just set. They should still wiggle a little bit in the center when lightly shaken. Remove the vanilla pods from the custard, then pour the mixture into the ramekins. Place in a baking pan and add enough hot water to the pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 40 minutes, or until the custards are just set. They should still wiggle a little bit in the center when lightly shaken.

5. Allow to cool in the water bath for about 30 minutes. Then remove from the water bath, cover the cooled cremas with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours. Allow to cool in the water bath for about 30 minutes. Then remove from the water bath, cover the cooled cremas with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours.

6. Meanwhile, puree the raspberries in a food processor and strain into a bowl to remove the seeds. Meanwhile, puree the raspberries in a food processor and strain into a bowl to remove the seeds.