In The Hands Of A Chef Part 16

6. Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining tablespoon of oil. Give the oil a minute to heat, then add the carrot, celery, and diced onion, season with salt and pepper, and saute, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it becomes aromatic, just a minute or two. Cover the shanks with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then cover with a lid, and braise for 1 hour. Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining tablespoon of oil. Give the oil a minute to heat, then add the carrot, celery, and diced onion, season with salt and pepper, and saute, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it becomes aromatic, just a minute or two. Cover the shanks with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then cover with a lid, and braise for 1 hour.

8. Remove the veal from the pan. Add the flageolets, 3 tablespoons of the tarragon, the water, and 1 cup chicken stock to the pan. Return the shanks (opposite sides down) to the pan, setting them on top of the beans, cover again with foil and the lid, and braise for another hour. The meat should be meltingly tender. Remove the veal from the pan. Add the flageolets, 3 tablespoons of the tarragon, the water, and 1 cup chicken stock to the pan. Return the shanks (opposite sides down) to the pan, setting them on top of the beans, cover again with foil and the lid, and braise for another hour. The meat should be meltingly tender.

9. Remove the veal shanks from the pan; set aside. Add 1 cups chicken stock, the pearl onions, tomatoes, and 1 tablespoon of the tarragon to the pan. Cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes, or until the flageolets are tender and creamy. If there seems to be too much liquid, reduce the juices over medium heat until they thicken. Return the shanks to the pan and heat through. Remove the veal shanks from the pan; set aside. Add 1 cups chicken stock, the pearl onions, tomatoes, and 1 tablespoon of the tarragon to the pan. Cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes, or until the flageolets are tender and creamy. If there seems to be too much liquid, reduce the juices over medium heat until they thicken. Return the shanks to the pan and heat through.

10. Right before serving, add the parsley and the remaining 1 tablespoon tarragon to the beans, and season with salt and pepper. Place a veal shank and generous helping of flageolets on each of four plates. Sprinkle strips of the preserved lemon (or fresh lemon zest) over each shank and serve. Right before serving, add the parsley and the remaining 1 tablespoon tarragon to the beans, and season with salt and pepper. Place a veal shank and generous helping of flageolets on each of four plates. Sprinkle strips of the preserved lemon (or fresh lemon zest) over each shank and serve.

Preserved Lemons The skin of preserved lemon has a distinctive tangy quality that's both exotic and refreshing and is ideal for cutting through other strong flavors. The skin of half a lemon, sliced into thin strips, with all traces of pith or pulp removed, is more than enough to serve four people as a condiment for a rich braised-meat dish. You can also add preserved lemon to salads, but be discreet with them until you've become familiar with their effect. It's easy to inadvertently transform a dish into a "preserved lemon salad, " as their flavor overwhelms subtler ingredients. lemon has a distinctive tangy quality that's both exotic and refreshing and is ideal for cutting through other strong flavors. The skin of half a lemon, sliced into thin strips, with all traces of pith or pulp removed, is more than enough to serve four people as a condiment for a rich braised-meat dish. You can also add preserved lemon to salads, but be discreet with them until you've become familiar with their effect. It's easy to inadvertently transform a dish into a "preserved lemon salad, " as their flavor overwhelms subtler ingredients.

MAKES 4 PRESERVED LEMONS.

4 lemons cup kosher salt About 1 cups freshly squeezed lemon juice (from about 8 lemons) Extra virgin olive oil 1. Sterilize a gla.s.s jar large enough to hold 4 lemons (washing it in a dishwasher is fine). A 1-quart mayonnaise jar works well. Sterilize a gla.s.s jar large enough to hold 4 lemons (washing it in a dishwasher is fine). A 1-quart mayonnaise jar works well.

2. Scrub the lemons well, then slice them lengthwise almost in half, leaving a 1-inch section uncut at one end so the halves remain attached. Hold a lemon over a bowl and pour 3 tablespoons salt into the lemon cut, letting the excess salt fall into the bowl. Squeeze the lemon, rubbing the salted cut surfaces back and forth and releasing the juice into the bowl. Put the lemon in the jar. Repeat with the remaining lemons. Pour the salt and lemon juice from the bowl into the jar. Add enough of the 1 cups lemon juice to completely cover the lemons. Cover with plastic wrap. Scrub the lemons well, then slice them lengthwise almost in half, leaving a 1-inch section uncut at one end so the halves remain attached. Hold a lemon over a bowl and pour 3 tablespoons salt into the lemon cut, letting the excess salt fall into the bowl. Squeeze the lemon, rubbing the salted cut surfaces back and forth and releasing the juice into the bowl. Put the lemon in the jar. Repeat with the remaining lemons. Pour the salt and lemon juice from the bowl into the jar. Add enough of the 1 cups lemon juice to completely cover the lemons. Cover with plastic wrap.

3. Allow the lemons to sit in a cool dark place or the refrigerator for 3 days, giving the jar a stir with a sterile spoon once a day to distribute undissolved salt. Allow the lemons to sit in a cool dark place or the refrigerator for 3 days, giving the jar a stir with a sterile spoon once a day to distribute undissolved salt.

4. After 3 days, carefully pour a thin ( inch) layer of olive oil on top of the lemon juice and replace the plastic wrap. Let the lemons cure for 6 weeks before using. Preserved lemons will keep for 6 months in the refrigerator. After 3 days, carefully pour a thin ( inch) layer of olive oil on top of the lemon juice and replace the plastic wrap. Let the lemons cure for 6 weeks before using. Preserved lemons will keep for 6 months in the refrigerator.

Braised Stuffed Veal Breast with Porcini Mushrooms Judging by the appearance of a raw veal breast-tough, fatty, and weirdly flat-you'd never know what a melt-in-your-mouth treat lies in store after it's braised. Lengthy slow-cooking breaks down the muscle fibers, inviting the flavors of porcini mushrooms and Marsala to penetrate the meat; the fat provides a kind of natural larding, so the end product is tender and succulent. The conveniently flat shape of a veal breast fairly begs for stuffing and rolling. I selected mushrooms and kale for the stuffing because both have earthy flavors and neither will break down during the long braising time. If you make this dish on a cold day when everyone's trapped inside, the aroma from the braising juices will drive everyone crazy as they keep asking, "When is it going to be ready?" a raw veal breast-tough, fatty, and weirdly flat-you'd never know what a melt-in-your-mouth treat lies in store after it's braised. Lengthy slow-cooking breaks down the muscle fibers, inviting the flavors of porcini mushrooms and Marsala to penetrate the meat; the fat provides a kind of natural larding, so the end product is tender and succulent. The conveniently flat shape of a veal breast fairly begs for stuffing and rolling. I selected mushrooms and kale for the stuffing because both have earthy flavors and neither will break down during the long braising time. If you make this dish on a cold day when everyone's trapped inside, the aroma from the braising juices will drive everyone crazy as they keep asking, "When is it going to be ready?"

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

STUFFING.

Kosher salt pound kale, hard center ribs removed 1 small carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice Freshly ground black pepper pound a.s.sorted mushrooms, such as shiitake, portabella, and/or chanterelle, cleaned and chopped into -inch dice 2 garlic cloves, minced teaspoon ground allspice cup dry bread crumbs cup freshly grated Parmesan 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano BRAISING LIQUID.

1/2 large boneless veal breast, trimmed of excess fat (about 3 pounds after tr.i.m.m.i.n.g; have your butcher point out which side of the breast was attached to the bone) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 small onion, chopped into -inch dice 1 small carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 ounce dried porcini, reconst.i.tuted in warm water (see page 271), and coa.r.s.ely chopped (soaking liquid saved) 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 cups dry Marsala 1 cup drained high-quality canned tomatoes, coa.r.s.ely chopped 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, or as needed 4 bay leaves 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano 1. To make the stuffing, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have a large bowl of ice water ready. Add the kale to the boiling water and blanch for 2 minutes. Add the carrots and blanch for an additional 2 minutes. Drain the vegetables and plunge into the ice water. Drain again and squeeze gently in paper towels to remove excess moisture. To make the stuffing, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have a large bowl of ice water ready. Add the kale to the boiling water and blanch for 2 minutes. Add the carrots and blanch for an additional 2 minutes. Drain the vegetables and plunge into the ice water. Drain again and squeeze gently in paper towels to remove excess moisture.

2. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook until mushrooms have released their moisture and it has been cooked off. Add the garlic and allspice and cook until aromatic, only a minute or two. Add the kale and carrots and toss well. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook until mushrooms have released their moisture and it has been cooked off. Add the garlic and allspice and cook until aromatic, only a minute or two. Add the kale and carrots and toss well. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

3. Add the remaining stuffing ingredients to the mushroom mixture. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if necessary. Add the remaining stuffing ingredients to the mushroom mixture. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper if necessary.

4. Trim any excess fat from both sides of the veal breast and lay it on a flat surface in front of you, with the side that had the bones facing up. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Spread the stuffing evenly over the breast, leaving a 1-inch border. Make sure the kale is distributed evenly. Roll the breast up like a jelly roll, beginning with whichever side will produce the stoutest roll. Tie the roll together with butcher's twine, and season the exterior of the roll with salt and pepper. Trim any excess fat from both sides of the veal breast and lay it on a flat surface in front of you, with the side that had the bones facing up. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Spread the stuffing evenly over the breast, leaving a 1-inch border. Make sure the kale is distributed evenly. Roll the breast up like a jelly roll, beginning with whichever side will produce the stoutest roll. Tie the roll together with butcher's twine, and season the exterior of the roll with salt and pepper.

6. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan, with the onion, carrot, and celery; season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables start to brown, about 7 minutes. Add the porcini, garlic, and tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes. Add the reserved porcini soaking liquid (strained to remove the grit), the Marsala, and tomatoes. Sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve any crispy bits. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan, with the onion, carrot, and celery; season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables start to brown, about 7 minutes. Add the porcini, garlic, and tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes. Add the reserved porcini soaking liquid (strained to remove the grit), the Marsala, and tomatoes. Sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve any crispy bits.

7. Return the veal to the pan and add enough chicken stock to come a third of the way up the side of the roll (about 2 cups) and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Cover the veal tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then cover with a lid. Reduce the heat to low and braise for 3 hours, turning the roll several times during the braising so it cooks evenly. Add chicken stock as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the veal. The veal is done when a cake tester slides in and out of the roll with no resistance. Remove the veal to a platter and cover loosely with foil. Return the veal to the pan and add enough chicken stock to come a third of the way up the side of the roll (about 2 cups) and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Cover the veal tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then cover with a lid. Reduce the heat to low and braise for 3 hours, turning the roll several times during the braising so it cooks evenly. Add chicken stock as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the veal. The veal is done when a cake tester slides in and out of the roll with no resistance. Remove the veal to a platter and cover loosely with foil.

8. There should be about 3 cups of juices left in the pan with the vegetables. If the juices seem too thin for a sauce, increase the heat and reduce until they thicken. Remove the bay leaves, add the thyme and oregano, and season with salt and pepper. There should be about 3 cups of juices left in the pan with the vegetables. If the juices seem too thin for a sauce, increase the heat and reduce until they thicken. Remove the bay leaves, add the thyme and oregano, and season with salt and pepper.

9. Remove the string from the veal and cut into 8 slices, each about 1 inch thick. Pour the sauce onto a warm platter, arrange overlapping slices of the veal on top of the sauce, and serve. Remove the string from the veal and cut into 8 slices, each about 1 inch thick. Pour the sauce onto a warm platter, arrange overlapping slices of the veal on top of the sauce, and serve.

HOW TO RESTORE DRIED PORCINI MUSHROOMSDried porcini return more flavor bang per dollar than just about any ingredient I can imagine. The deeply resonant flavor of wildness gained from an ounce or two more than compensates for their expense. To reconst.i.tute dried mushrooms, place them in a small bowl and cover them with warm water. Use about 1 cup per ounce of dried mushrooms. Allow them to soak, covered, for 20 minutes. Some cooks like to use red wine, sherry, or Marsala for part or all of the reconst.i.tuting liquid, but I prefer to use only water if alcohol is included elsewhere in the recipe.After the mushrooms have soaked, lift them out of the liquid and gently squeeze them to remove the excess. Reserve the liquid. Carefully inspect the stems for any remaining dirt or grit. If the stems are still tough after soaking (or embedded with grit), slice them off. Chop the mushrooms or leave whole, as the recipe requires. Allow sand or grit to settle to the bottom of the bowl, then carefully pour off the liquid-through a coffee filter if you don't have a steady hand. The mushroom liquor is quite flavorful. If you are not using it in the recipe, it can be refrigerated for several days for use in a stock, soup, or sauce.

Grilled Maple-Brined Pork Chops with Roasted Pear Chutney One hundred fifty years ago, home cooks and commercial food processors relied on brining (along with salting and smoking) to prevent meats, fish, and vegetables from spoiling. Today, brining is making a comeback. Brined chicken and pork dishes appear on upscale restaurant menus. Cooks are rediscovering that brining is a simple way of improving texture and flavor. Since brining causes meat to absorb liquid, a seasoned brining solution makes meat juicier and tastier than it would be otherwise, a G.o.dsend for ultra-lean American pork and even for turkey.

My friend Nancy Oakes, chef-owner of the San Francisco restaurant Boulevard, gave me her recipe for brining, which I've adapted for this easy dish. I like to serve these pork chops with Versatile b.u.t.termilk Mashed Potatoes (page 107) and Fiery Garlicky Greens (page 91).

If there are leftovers, cooked chops will keep for several days in the refrigerator. Their low fat content makes it too easy to dry them out during reheating, so I prefer to use them cold. Trim the meat off the bone, remove any of the fat remaining along the outer edge, and then slice the meat as thin as possible. Use in a sandwich or a salad, or as part of a cold meat plate, with Roasted Pear Chutney (page 274) or Herbal Mayonnaise (page 14).

Twelve hours is the optimal time for brining the chops, so plan on making the brine and marinating the chops the night before you intend to grill them. Brining them for slightly less time is fine, but longer than 12 hours, and the chops will start to take on the texture and flavor of ham. Once brined, however, they can be refrigerated for several days before cooking.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

BRINE.

1 cup kosher salt VA cup sugar 1 cup Grade a maple syrup 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons juniper berries teaspoon whole cloves VA cup fresh rosemary, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 12 garlic cloves, smashed 2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger 8 cups water 4 center-cut loin pork chops, 1 inches thick Freshly ground black pepper cup vegetable oil for grilling Roasted Pear Chutney (recipe follows; optional) 1. Mix all of the brine ingredients together in a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and stir the brine to ensure that the salt, sugar, and maple syrup have dissolved. Let the brine cool, then put it in a large nonreactive container and add the pork chops. Cover and refrigerate for no more than 12 hours. Mix all of the brine ingredients together in a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and stir the brine to ensure that the salt, sugar, and maple syrup have dissolved. Let the brine cool, then put it in a large nonreactive container and add the pork chops. Cover and refrigerate for no more than 12 hours.

2. Remove the pork from the brine and pat dry (without rinsing). Remove the pork from the brine and pat dry (without rinsing).

3. Prepare a grill with hot and medium cooking areas (see page 265). A grill is hot when you can't hold your hand near the grill surface for longer than 2 seconds without pulling it away; it's medium when you can't hold your hand there for longer than 4 seconds. Prepare a grill with hot and medium cooking areas (see page 265). A grill is hot when you can't hold your hand near the grill surface for longer than 2 seconds without pulling it away; it's medium when you can't hold your hand there for longer than 4 seconds.

4. Season the chops with pepper (not salt-remember, the brining solution is salty) and brush with the oil. Sear the chops directly over the hottest part of the open grill for about 1 minutes on each side. Then move the chops to the medium area of the grill, cover the grill, and cook to the desired doneness. Use an instant-read digital thermometer to check the internal temperature of the center of the chops. A reading of 145 to 150F will give you a pink, moist chop, 160F is well-done. Serve immediately, accompanied by the chutney, if using. Season the chops with pepper (not salt-remember, the brining solution is salty) and brush with the oil. Sear the chops directly over the hottest part of the open grill for about 1 minutes on each side. Then move the chops to the medium area of the grill, cover the grill, and cook to the desired doneness. Use an instant-read digital thermometer to check the internal temperature of the center of the chops. A reading of 145 to 150F will give you a pink, moist chop, 160F is well-done. Serve immediately, accompanied by the chutney, if using.

WHERE'S THE FAT?The American pig began slimming down in the 1950s, but the lean pork we know today really only emerged over the last twenty years. Since the 1970s, a growing public awareness of the link between saturated fat and heart disease has pumped up the demand for leaner meat products. Pork producers have been happy to comply. The result: "the other white meat. " A 3-ounce portion of pork loin today contains just under 7 grams of fat. If you'd sat down to a dinner with the same serving back in 1963, you would have been consuming almost 30 grams of fat. This is why cooking a pork loin or pork loin chops today requires a slightly different approach than it did several decades ago. Less fat means the meat dries out more quickly during cooking.There are several measures you can take to avoid overcooking pork. First, never cook pork beyond an internal temperature reading of 150F, at which point the pork is still pink and juicy. I prefer to cook pork only to 140F, a.s.suming there's going to be a rest period when the temperature will continue to rise to around 150F. The trichina parasite, considered a low risk these days because of improvements in sanitation and production methods, is killed at 137F. Cooking pork to 150F won't kill salmonella, if that's a concern to you, but it wouldn't kill salmonella in veal or beef at that temperature either. The USDA recommends that the internal temperature of pork be 160F for medium, but at that temperature, pork tenderloin begins to taste like shoe leather. Try cooking it to the lower temperature range first; then, if it's not done to your satisfaction, put it back in the oven.Second, cook thick, cook fast. Buy thick center-cut loin chops, at least 1 to 2 inches thick. Cook them no more than 6 minutes per side on a grill, less if you're sauteing them. Their thickness will help keep the center of the meat moist. If you have time to brine them beforehand, all the better; their increased moisture content will further decrease the risk of drying the meat out (and add a minute or two to the cooking time). Finally, keep in mind that the leanest cuts of pork are the tenderloin and the other loin cuts. Other cuts, like the Boston b.u.t.t used in Red Clay's Roasted Spice-Rubbed Pork (page 328), have more fat in them. You can cook them longer with less chance of drying them out.

Roasted Pear Chutney The most difficult part of this recipe, other than a.s.sembling the ingredients, is marshaling the patience to wait while the chutney rests in the refrigerator. The chutney will keep for 2 weeks, as long as it's covered and refrigerated. this recipe, other than a.s.sembling the ingredients, is marshaling the patience to wait while the chutney rests in the refrigerator. The chutney will keep for 2 weeks, as long as it's covered and refrigerated.

MAKES 2 TO 3 CUPS.

2 ripe Bosc pears, peeled and cut in half 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon ground cloves 2 tablespoons vegetable oil cup pure maple syrup 1 small red onion, cut into -inch slices 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 3 tablespoons currants 3 tablespoons golden raisins cup white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1 cup diced mango (optional) 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Toss the pears with the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, the cinnamon, and cloves. Coat a sheet pan with half the vegetable oil. Set the pears cut side down on the pan. Brush the pears with the remaining oil. Roast until caramelized and tender, 40 to 50 minutes, depending on the degree of ripeness. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Toss the pears with the lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, the cinnamon, and cloves. Coat a sheet pan with half the vegetable oil. Set the pears cut side down on the pan. Brush the pears with the remaining oil. Roast until caramelized and tender, 40 to 50 minutes, depending on the degree of ripeness. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

3. While the pears are roasting, bring the remaining ingredients to a boil in a nonreactive saucepan. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. While the pears are roasting, bring the remaining ingredients to a boil in a nonreactive saucepan. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

4. Using a small spoon or a melon bailer, scoop out the cores of the cooked pears. Cut the pears into -inch slices. Using a small spoon or a melon bailer, scoop out the cores of the cooked pears. Cut the pears into -inch slices.

5. Combine the pears and the onion mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 day before serving. Combine the pears and the onion mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 day before serving.

Grilled and Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Toasted Pumpkin Seed Sauce This recipe matches the intensely nutty flavor of pumpkin seeds with the flavors of hot pepper, anise, and paprika in the marinade. The pork is seared in a grill pan, then finished in the oven. Given the willingness of various European regional cuisines to crush and mash seeds and nuts into sauces or condiments (pesto comes to mind, as do various Catalan condiments), it seems downright strange that no one hit on the idea of doing the same with pumpkin seeds, especially since pumpkin seed sauce is quite popular in Mexican cooking. Judge for yourself-the seeds make a great sauce. nutty flavor of pumpkin seeds with the flavors of hot pepper, anise, and paprika in the marinade. The pork is seared in a grill pan, then finished in the oven. Given the willingness of various European regional cuisines to crush and mash seeds and nuts into sauces or condiments (pesto comes to mind, as do various Catalan condiments), it seems downright strange that no one hit on the idea of doing the same with pumpkin seeds, especially since pumpkin seed sauce is quite popular in Mexican cooking. Judge for yourself-the seeds make a great sauce.

Supermarkets sometimes put whole pork loins on sale, a good time to consider using this recipe for a much larger group of people. Double, triple, or even quadruple the ingredients and cook the pork in a covered grill.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

2 tablespoons coriander seeds 1 teaspoon c.u.min seeds 1 teaspoon anise seeds 1 tablespoon paprika teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon brown sugar

1 pounds pork tenderloin, trimmed of all fat and silver skin SAUCE.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil small white onion, chopped into -inch dice 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1 teaspoon chopped serrano pepper cup pumpkin seeds, toasted and coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 2 cups high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth reduced to 1 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Kosher salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil GARNISH.

lime, cut into 4 wedges 4 sprigs cilantro DO AHEAD: Marinate the pork in the garlic and spice mixture for at least 12 hours; longer is fine. Marinate the pork in the garlic and spice mixture for at least 12 hours; longer is fine.

1. To make the marinade, toast the coriander, c.u.min, and anise seeds in a dry pan over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Grind the seeds in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle. To make the marinade, toast the coriander, c.u.min, and anise seeds in a dry pan over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Grind the seeds in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle.

2. In a small bowl, mix the ground spices with the paprika and cayenne pepper. Set aside 1 teaspoon of the mixture for the sauce. In a small bowl, mix the ground spices with the paprika and cayenne pepper. Set aside 1 teaspoon of the mixture for the sauce.

3. Stir the garlic, vegetable oil, and brown sugar into the remaining spice mix. Rub the pork all over with the spice marinade, cover, and allow to marinate for 12 hours in the refrigerator. Stir the garlic, vegetable oil, and brown sugar into the remaining spice mix. Rub the pork all over with the spice marinade, cover, and allow to marinate for 12 hours in the refrigerator.

4. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

5. Heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute, stirring periodically, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the serrano pepper and cook for 3 more minutes. Add the pumpkin seeds, chicken stock, and the 1 teaspoon of reserved spice mixture from the marinade. Cook for 20 more minutes, or until thickened, then remove from the heat. Puree the mixture in a blender or with an immersion blender, then set aside while you cook the pork. Heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute, stirring periodically, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the serrano pepper and cook for 3 more minutes. Add the pumpkin seeds, chicken stock, and the 1 teaspoon of reserved spice mixture from the marinade. Cook for 20 more minutes, or until thickened, then remove from the heat. Puree the mixture in a blender or with an immersion blender, then set aside while you cook the pork.

6. Season the pork with salt. Rub a large ovenproof grill pan with the vegetable oil and heat over medium-high heat. (Or heat the oil in a large overproof skillet or saute pan.) Put the pork tenderloin in the pan when the oil starts to smoke. Sear the pork, turning occasionally, until it has a nice crust on all sides, about 5 minutes. Season the pork with salt. Rub a large ovenproof grill pan with the vegetable oil and heat over medium-high heat. (Or heat the oil in a large overproof skillet or saute pan.) Put the pork tenderloin in the pan when the oil starts to smoke. Sear the pork, turning occasionally, until it has a nice crust on all sides, about 5 minutes.

7. Transfer to the oven and roast until done, about 5 more minutes. The internal temperature of the pork should read no more than 140F (see page 273). Allow the pork to repose for 10 minutes before slicing. During this time, the temperature will come up to about 150F. Transfer to the oven and roast until done, about 5 more minutes. The internal temperature of the pork should read no more than 140F (see page 273). Allow the pork to repose for 10 minutes before slicing. During this time, the temperature will come up to about 150F.

8. Reheat the sauce in a small saucepan while the pork reposes. Add the lime juice and cilantro and season with salt and pepper. Slice the meat across the grain on a diagonal. Arrange the slices on a warm platter. Drizzle with the sauce and garnish with the lime wedges and cilantro sprigs. Serve immediately. Reheat the sauce in a small saucepan while the pork reposes. Add the lime juice and cilantro and season with salt and pepper. Slice the meat across the grain on a diagonal. Arrange the slices on a warm platter. Drizzle with the sauce and garnish with the lime wedges and cilantro sprigs. Serve immediately.

Seared Loin Lamb Chops with Saffron and Roasted Garlic Pan Sauce During a trip to Spain, I kept encountering a combination of saffron and garlic used to flavor various lamb dishes. In this country, saffron is more often a.s.sociated with seafood than with meat and my Spanish experience was like discovering a new color in the crayon box. I've played with the formula by introducing basil, another herb not often a.s.sociated with lamb, and using roasted garlic rather than fresh. Roasting the garlic changes the flavor from sharp to mellow, and using the whole cloves helps to thicken the sauce, so less b.u.t.ter is needed. I kept encountering a combination of saffron and garlic used to flavor various lamb dishes. In this country, saffron is more often a.s.sociated with seafood than with meat and my Spanish experience was like discovering a new color in the crayon box. I've played with the formula by introducing basil, another herb not often a.s.sociated with lamb, and using roasted garlic rather than fresh. Roasting the garlic changes the flavor from sharp to mellow, and using the whole cloves helps to thicken the sauce, so less b.u.t.ter is needed.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

cup Roasted Garlic (page 119) teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Thai basil (subst.i.tute Italian basil if Thai basil is unavailable) 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Eight 5-ounce loin lamb chops cup vegetable oil Kosher salt SAUCE.

cup dry white wine Pinch of saffron 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups highquality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 2 tablespoons Roasted Garlic (page 119) 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Kosher salt 1. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Add the chops and turn to coat with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Add the chops and turn to coat with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in each of two large saute pans over medium-high heat. Season the lamb chops evenly with salt. (Don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade.) When the oil is hot, put 4 chops in each pan. Sear on both sides, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the chops to a plate. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in each of two large saute pans over medium-high heat. Season the lamb chops evenly with salt. (Don't sc.r.a.pe off the marinade.) When the oil is hot, put 4 chops in each pan. Sear on both sides, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the chops to a plate.

3. Set aside one of the pans. To make the sauce, deglaze the remaining pan with the wine, using a wooden spoon to make sure the crispy bits dissolve completely, and add the saffron. Reduce the wine to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and continue cooking until the liquid in the pan has reduced to cup, about 15 minutes. Do not overreduce. Set aside one of the pans. To make the sauce, deglaze the remaining pan with the wine, using a wooden spoon to make sure the crispy bits dissolve completely, and add the saffron. Reduce the wine to a glaze, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and continue cooking until the liquid in the pan has reduced to cup, about 15 minutes. Do not overreduce.

4. Off the heat, whisk in the roasted garlic and b.u.t.ter. Add the lemon juice and parsley; season with salt. Off the heat, whisk in the roasted garlic and b.u.t.ter. Add the lemon juice and parsley; season with salt.

5. Put 2 chops on each of four plates, sauce each portion at once, and serve immediately. Put 2 chops on each of four plates, sauce each portion at once, and serve immediately.

Seared Lamb Steaks with Balsamic Vinegar and Red Pepper Marinade Lamb steaks are cut from the sirloin end of the leg. Meaty, chewier than sirloin chops, they're an ideal cut for searing or grilling, especially if you marinate them first. Just be sure to buy them at least inch thick, or they'll dry out during cooking. After marinating in a highly seasoned puree of roasted red peppers, the steaks are seared for a few minutes on each side. Then the marinade is briefly reduced over high heat to thicken it into a sauce and poured over the meat just before serving. Primal ingredients, primal flavors. the sirloin end of the leg. Meaty, chewier than sirloin chops, they're an ideal cut for searing or grilling, especially if you marinate them first. Just be sure to buy them at least inch thick, or they'll dry out during cooking. After marinating in a highly seasoned puree of roasted red peppers, the steaks are seared for a few minutes on each side. Then the marinade is briefly reduced over high heat to thicken it into a sauce and poured over the meat just before serving. Primal ingredients, primal flavors.

Leftovers will keep for 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator. Rather than trying to reheat the steaks whole, slice them into thin strips, simmer briefly in tomato sauce, and toss with pasta.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

4 large red peppers, roasted (see page 99), peeled, stemmed, and seeded 3 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped teaspoon anise seeds 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 teaspoon dried oregano teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 lamb blade steaks, 1 inch thick (10 to 12 ounces each) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil DO AHEAD: The lamb needs to marinate for at least 3 hours; 12 would be ideal. The lamb needs to marinate for at least 3 hours; 12 would be ideal.

1. Puree the red peppers in a blender or food processor. You should end up with about a cup of puree. Combine the puree with the remaining marinade ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Put the steaks in the bowl and turn to coat evenly on both sides with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, ideally, 12 hours. Puree the red peppers in a blender or food processor. You should end up with about a cup of puree. Combine the puree with the remaining marinade ingredients in a large bowl and mix well. Put the steaks in the bowl and turn to coat evenly on both sides with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, ideally, 12 hours.

2. Remove the steaks from the marinade. Sc.r.a.pe the marinade off the lamb back into the bowl; reserve. Remove the steaks from the marinade. Sc.r.a.pe the marinade off the lamb back into the bowl; reserve.

3. Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the steaks and cook, turning once, until done, about Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the steaks and cook, turning once, until done, about 5 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the lamb steaks to a platter. minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the lamb steaks to a platter.

4. Lower the heat to medium. Wipe out the pan if there are any burned bits. Add the marinade to the pan and cook for 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until thick and bubbling. Spoon over the lamb and serve at once. Lower the heat to medium. Wipe out the pan if there are any burned bits. Add the marinade to the pan and cook for 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until thick and bubbling. Spoon over the lamb and serve at once.

Braised Rosemary-Stuffed Lamb Shanks with Roasted Fennel and Red Onions Usually you cut a pocket into a piece of meat and stuff it with herbs when you're going to roast the meat, but I've adapted the technique for this dish of braised lamb shanks. This recipe is also unusual in that its accompanying ingredients are cooked separately. Ordinarily a braised meat recipe would include all the vegetables in the braising pot, rather than cooking them individually, but roasted fennel is so appealing in its own right that it seems a shame to lose its distinct flavor in the braise. Why not let it stand as a complement to the rosemary-infused lamb? into a piece of meat and stuff it with herbs when you're going to roast the meat, but I've adapted the technique for this dish of braised lamb shanks. This recipe is also unusual in that its accompanying ingredients are cooked separately. Ordinarily a braised meat recipe would include all the vegetables in the braising pot, rather than cooking them individually, but roasted fennel is so appealing in its own right that it seems a shame to lose its distinct flavor in the braise. Why not let it stand as a complement to the rosemary-infused lamb?

Braised lamb shanks are exquisite right out of the pot, but letting them rest in their braising juices for a day or two allows the other flavors to penetrate the meat more deeply. Reheat them, covered, in a 375F oven for 40 minutes. If you have leftovers, cut the meat off the bone (discard the bones) before refrigerating the meat in the sauce. Reheating is quicker that way, making it a simple step to serve the meat and sauce over fresh pappardelle noodles (see page 144) or rice.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

LAMB.

Four 1-pound lamb shanks (from the back leg-it's meatier) 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary (use any left over in the braise) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 medium carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch pieces 1 medium onion, sliced inch thick 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch pieces 6 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped 2 cups dry white wine 1 cup chopped drained canned tomatoes 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 2 bay leaves 6 anchovies, rinsed and chopped 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 8 allspice berries 1 cup chopped fresh basil ROASTED VEGETABLES.

1 fennel bulb, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut lengthwise into quarters, and cored 1 large red onion, cut into quarters 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons Pernod Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper DO AHEAD: Stuff the lamb shanks with the rosemary at least 6 hours, and preferably 12, before braising. The lamb can be braised up to 3 days ahead of time as long as it's kept tightly covered and refrigerated. This has the added advantage of making it easy to remove the fat, which, when chilled, forms a layer at the top of the dish. Roast the fennel and red onion on the day of serving. Stuff the lamb shanks with the rosemary at least 6 hours, and preferably 12, before braising. The lamb can be braised up to 3 days ahead of time as long as it's kept tightly covered and refrigerated. This has the added advantage of making it easy to remove the fat, which, when chilled, forms a layer at the top of the dish. Roast the fennel and red onion on the day of serving.

1. Using the tip of a sharp paring knife, make 12 small incisions, Using the tip of a sharp paring knife, make 12 small incisions, inch deep, in each shank. Push a couple of rosemary leaves into each incision. (Save any remaining rosemary.) Wrap the shanks tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or, preferably, overnight. inch deep, in each shank. Push a couple of rosemary leaves into each incision. (Save any remaining rosemary.) Wrap the shanks tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or, preferably, overnight.

2. Unwrap the shanks and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep braising pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the oil starts to smoke, sear the shanks until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Set the shanks aside. Unwrap the shanks and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep braising pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the oil starts to smoke, sear the shanks until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Set the shanks aside.

3. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pan. Lower the heat to medium, add the carrot, onion, celery, and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes; set aside the vegetables. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and continue cooking until it reduces by half, 6 to 8 minutes. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the pan. Lower the heat to medium, add the carrot, onion, celery, and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes; set aside the vegetables. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and continue cooking until it reduces by half, 6 to 8 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

5. Add all the remaining braising ingredients except the basil (including any remaining rosemary) to the pan. Take note of how high the liquid reaches up the sides of the pan, and cook until it has reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Return the shanks to the pan, along with half the basil. The liquid should reach one-third of the way up the shanks. If not, add enough water to make up the difference. Cover the shanks tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan. Add all the remaining braising ingredients except the basil (including any remaining rosemary) to the pan. Take note of how high the liquid reaches up the sides of the pan, and cook until it has reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Return the shanks to the pan, along with half the basil. The liquid should reach one-third of the way up the shanks. If not, add enough water to make up the difference. Cover the shanks tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan.

6. Put the pan in the oven. Braise until the meat is very tender, about 2 to 3 hours, checking the level of liquid every 30 minutes and adding water as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the shanks. After 1 hours, flip the shanks. Put the pan in the oven. Braise until the meat is very tender, about 2 to 3 hours, checking the level of liquid every 30 minutes and adding water as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the shanks. After 1 hours, flip the shanks.

7. Meanwhile, after the lamb has braised for 30 minutes, toss the fennel and onion quarters with the olive oil and Pernod in a small roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper. Put the vegetables in the oven. Roast until tender and golden, about 2 hours. If by some chance the lamb finishes cooking before the vegetables, remove the shanks from the oven, increase the oven temperature to 400F and continue roasting until done. Meanwhile, after the lamb has braised for 30 minutes, toss the fennel and onion quarters with the olive oil and Pernod in a small roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper. Put the vegetables in the oven. Roast until tender and golden, about 2 hours. If by some chance the lamb finishes cooking before the vegetables, remove the shanks from the oven, increase the oven temperature to 400F and continue roasting until done.

8. After the lamb has finished cooking, remove the shanks from the pan and keep warm. Strain the braising vegetables out of the juices. Puree them in a blender or food processor with the remaining basil and return them to the juices to make a sauce. After the lamb has finished cooking, remove the shanks from the pan and keep warm. Strain the braising vegetables out of the juices. Puree them in a blender or food processor with the remaining basil and return them to the juices to make a sauce.