I'm Just Here For The Food Part 9

Fats for Sautes

You don't need a lot, but you do need some. A thin coating of fat brings out flavors and promotes caramelization. The trick is in using the right fats at the right time. Highly flavorful oils like extra-virgin olive oil, sesame oil, and nut oils provide an additional layer of flavor, but they burn easily. So do your cooking in a neutral oil like safflower and finish with a flavorful oil, or blend the two before adding them to the pan in the first place.

When picking an oil, consider the ingredients you're cooking. Asian ingredients will be complemented more by sesame oil than by olive oil, whereas foods with a Mediterranean slant will prefer the olive oil. French cla.s.sics like green beans and shallots lean toward walnut oil. That's just the way things work.

The Toss

The airborne food antics of many TV chefs are just that: antics. Your food doesn't need "big air" to saute properly, it only needs to move. Until you get the hang of it, concentrate on turning the food over itself by pushing the pan away from you, then snapping it gently back toward you. With a little practice you'll be able to turn everything in the pan over in a second or two without removing the pan from the heat.

Try this: Combine 1 cup of dry black beans and 10 individual white beans in your saute pan. Practice your toss and watch where the white beans go-can you gather them all together and then move them over every inch of the pan?

Building the Perfect Saute

1. Prepare all foods to be cooked: cut them into uniform, bite-size pieces. (Aromatics should be chopped smaller so that they release more flavor.)2. Add the cooking oil only after the pan is hot.3. Add the aromatics (onion, celery, garlic, ginger, and so on) and toss for 30 seconds or until fragrant. (If finely cut, aromatics can be added later in the process.)4. Add firm vegetables or meats and toss until half-cooked, then add quick-cooking or high-moisture ingredients like zucchini or tomato and toss for another 30 seconds to 1 minute.5. Add final flavors such as citrus juice or vinegar. If vegetables are still too firm, cover to steam briefly.6. Toss a final time with salt and pepper, taste, adjust seasoning if necessary, and turn out into a bowl or platter.7. Top with grated cheese, toasted nuts, bread crumbs, or additional herbs.

THE STORY OF TEFLON.

The year was 1938, and DuPont chemist Dr. Roy Plunkett was at work on the creation of a new type of Freon refrigerant. Plunkett plopped some down and left them in his lab overnight. The next day, he found that something had happened. The gas had somehow polymerized into a waxy, slippery substance, which with further testing proved to be almost utterly inert, chemically speaking. He called it Poly-tetra-fluoro-ethylene or Teflon for short. Some guys out at Los Alamos caught wind of the blunder/discovery and decided to order up some of DuPont's new goo. (Turns out they were working on something that required the containment of a uranium byproduct that's highly corrosive-Teflon was the only material that would hold it.) Once its slipperiness became celebrated, Teflon was used to coat the nose cones of missiles carrying later generations of the Los Alamos sp.a.w.n. Then, in the 1950s, a French fisherman came up with a method of applying Teflon to his fishing tackle, rendering it tangle-free. And when his wife got the idea of putting some on her pots and pans... well, the rest is non-stick history. Teflon is still considered the slickest solid on Earth.

b.u.t.ter

It is the fat most commonly called for in sauteing.

b.u.t.ter is a flavoring agent, and a little in the saute pan can go a long way. Because of its low smoke point, using b.u.t.ter in combination with a high smoke point oil can prevent burning. b.u.t.ter is made by churning cream until it reaches a semi-solid state. By United States law, b.u.t.ter must be at least 80 percent milk fat. The other 20 percent is made up of water and milk solids. Many high-end b.u.t.ters contain up to 88 percent milk fat. The USDA grades b.u.t.ter based on flavor, body, texture, color, and salt content. These grades are: AA (or 93), A (or 92), and B (or 90); AA- and A-grade b.u.t.ters are what are commonly found in the grocery store.

Unsalted b.u.t.ter contains no salt. It's also referred to as "sweet b.u.t.ter," though it is not made with sweet cream (any b.u.t.ter made with sweet instead of sour cream is sweet b.u.t.ter). Since it has no salt, unsalted b.u.t.ter is more perishable than ordinary b.u.t.ter, which typically has a salt content of about 1.2 to 1.4 percent. contains no salt. It's also referred to as "sweet b.u.t.ter," though it is not made with sweet cream (any b.u.t.ter made with sweet instead of sour cream is sweet b.u.t.ter). Since it has no salt, unsalted b.u.t.ter is more perishable than ordinary b.u.t.ter, which typically has a salt content of about 1.2 to 1.4 percent.

Whipped b.u.t.ter has had air beaten into it, thus increasing its volume and making for a more spreadable consistency. has had air beaten into it, thus increasing its volume and making for a more spreadable consistency. Clarified b.u.t.ter Clarified b.u.t.ter, also known as drawn b.u.t.ter, is b.u.t.ter minus its milk solids. To clarify b.u.t.ter, melt it slowly, thereby evaporating most of its water and separating the milk solids (they sink to the bottom) from the golden liquid on top. Skim off the foam and pour off the clear or clarified b.u.t.ter. Because the milk solids have been removed, clarified b.u.t.ter has a higher smoke point and won't go rancid as quickly as regular b.u.t.ter. The down side is that it loses some of its flavor along with the milk solids.

Traditionally, b.u.t.termilk b.u.t.termilk was the liquid left after the b.u.t.ter was churned. Today, b.u.t.termilk is made by adding bacteria to low-fat or non-fat milk. was the liquid left after the b.u.t.ter was churned. Today, b.u.t.termilk is made by adding bacteria to low-fat or non-fat milk.

Margarine is a manufactured product made with vegetable oils; it was developed in the late 1800s as a b.u.t.ter subst.i.tute. It contains trans fatty acids, which result when hydrogen is added to a fat so that it will be solid at room temperature. Recent studies have linked trans fatty acids to health problems, including heart disease. is a manufactured product made with vegetable oils; it was developed in the late 1800s as a b.u.t.ter subst.i.tute. It contains trans fatty acids, which result when hydrogen is added to a fat so that it will be solid at room temperature. Recent studies have linked trans fatty acids to health problems, including heart disease.

b.u.t.tER FACTS AND TIPS.

* Two cups of cold heavy cream will produce about 6 ounces of b.u.t.ter. Two cups of cold heavy cream will produce about 6 ounces of b.u.t.ter. * * The color of b.u.t.ter is dependent upon the cow's diet. The color of b.u.t.ter is dependent upon the cow's diet. * * If mishandled, even top-grade b.u.t.ter will oxidize. The b.u.t.terfat reacts with the oxygen either in the air or in the water inside the b.u.t.ter itself to create butyric acid, which leads to rancidity. But if the b.u.t.ter contains salt, it will not be able to oxidize as readily. If mishandled, even top-grade b.u.t.ter will oxidize. The b.u.t.terfat reacts with the oxygen either in the air or in the water inside the b.u.t.ter itself to create butyric acid, which leads to rancidity. But if the b.u.t.ter contains salt, it will not be able to oxidize as readily. * * Check the expiration date on the package to make sure you're buying fresh b.u.t.ter. The date is almost always 4 months from the date the b.u.t.ter was made. Check the expiration date on the package to make sure you're buying fresh b.u.t.ter. The date is almost always 4 months from the date the b.u.t.ter was made. * * b.u.t.ter contains stearic acid, a substance known to be heart-friendly. b.u.t.ter contains stearic acid, a substance known to be heart-friendly. * * To cut b.u.t.ter without it sticking to the knife, chill the blade or wrap it in waxed paper. To cut b.u.t.ter without it sticking to the knife, chill the blade or wrap it in waxed paper.

Chicken in Garlic and Shallots This dish is an interesting hybrid. At first glance it appears to be a braise, but because it's cooked in fat, it's technically a fry. But nothing about the fragrant and amazingly flavorful results suggest frying. The oil itself comes out as the best garlic-herb oil you've ever tasted-perfect for sauteing greens or making garlic bread. Then there are the garlic cloves and shallots: soft, sweet, spreadable-stir them into mashed potatoes and prepare to amaze your friends and frighten your enemies.I have to say that this dish sums up everything I love about cooking-in fact it is my favorite dish of all time to cook because it is amazingly easy, requires only one pan, can be made with any chunks of chicken (though I prefer the thighs), and it makes the house smell the way I like to think the south of France smells.

Application: Slow-FryingPreheat oven to 350 F.Season chicken liberally with salt and pepper. Toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil and brown on both sides in wide frying pan or skillet over high heat. Remove from heat, add garlic, shallots, herbs, and remainder of the olive oil (there's no reason to chop the herbs, just distribute them around and in between the chicken chunks). Cover and bake for 1 hours.Yield: 6 servingsSoftware: 1 whole chicken (broiler/fryer) 1 whole chicken (broiler/fryer) cut into 8 pieces or 10 chicken thighs Salt Freshly ground black pepper cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil 10 peeled cloves of garlic 10 shallots, peeled and split in half from stem to root Several sprigs parsley, sage, and thyme (sorry, rosemary would put it over the edge) Hardware: Large ovenproof saute pan with Large ovenproof saute pan with tight fitting lid (Straight sides are needed. If you don't have such a pan you may need to brown the chicken in one pan then finish the dish in a ca.s.serole.) Tongs for handling meat

Carrots and Zucchini with Garlic and Ginger Application: SauteingHeat the saute pan and, when hot, add the oil. Add the garlic and ginger to the pan and toss for 30 seconds. Add the carrots and toss until they are half-cooked, about 2 minutes. Add the zucchini and toss for 30 seconds to 1 minute more. Add the mint and the vinegar; if carrots are still too firm, cover and steam briefly. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, toss, and turn out onto a serving platter. Top with the sesame seeds.Yield: 4 side servings Software: 1 tablespoon peanut or safflower oil 1 tablespoon peanut or safflower oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons fresh ginger, minced 2 large carrots, cut into 2-inch sticks 1 large zucchini (unpeeled), cut into 2-inch sticks 1 tablespoon mint, cut into fine chiffonade 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar Salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted in a dry pan over high heat until you just begin to smell them Hardware: Saute pan Saute pan

GARLIC.

Garlic wasn't grown commercially in the United States until World War I, when some farmers in California started doing so in response to a government call for garlic to ship to troops overseas for use as an antiseptic. By 1920, Gilroy, California, in the San Joaquin Valley, established itself as the nation's garlic capital. Today, more than 1 million pounds of garlic are processed there each day, and the town is the proud host of an annual three-day garlic festival that regularly attracts more than 100,000 people. An old folk saying goes "Shallots are for babies, onions are for men, garlic is for heroes."

Scampi V2.0 Application: SauteingChop the garlic together with the parsley until it almost reaches a paste-like consistency. (When salt is added, the French-yes, them again-call this mixture persillade persillade.)Heat the saute pan and, when hot, add the oil. Add the shrimp and toss. When halfway cooked, about 1 minutes, add the tomatoes and toss for 30 seconds to 1 minute more. Add the garlic and parsley mixture, the salt, pepper, b.u.t.ter, and lemon juice and toss one last time. Turn out onto a plate and serve.Yield: 2 servings Software: 2 cloves garlic 2 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound jumbo shrimp (headless) 2 ripe Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced Salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter Juice of half a lemon Hardware: Saute pan Saute pan

Believe it or not, you can subst.i.tute firm tofu (of all things) in this application. I'm told that crickets do well, too, although I haven't tried them.

Hot Melon Salad I also prepare this using a roasting pan on the grill. You really want to work with as much surface area as possible.

Application: SauteingHeat the saute pan and, when hot, add the oil. Add the onion and toss for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add the melon and toss until halfway cooked, about 2 minutes. Add the basil, vinegar, and pepper and toss for 30 seconds to 1 minute more. If the melon is still too hard, cover and let steam briefly. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately toss in the cheese. Turn out onto a serving platter and garnish with the pine nuts.Yield: 4 side servingsSoftware: 1 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoons olive oil 1 red onion, sliced Lyonnaise-style 2 cups diced a.s.sorted melon such as cantaloupe and honeydew 1 tablespoon basil, cut into fine chiffonade Splash of red wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper Crumbled feta cheese 1 tablespoon pine nuts, toasted in a dry pan over high heat until just browned Hardware: Saute pan Saute pan

I habitually burn pine nuts when I toast them this way, so I've recently switched to using a hot-air popcorn popper. No more burned nuts.

Miller Thyme Trout Somewhere between saute and pan-fry is a method the French call meuniere meuniere. The word means "miller's wife," who I'm betting could get her hands on just about all the flour she wanted. Unlike a saute, we're talking a large piece of fish here, but the procedure for building flavors is closer to the saute than to the pan-fry.In the cla.s.sic meuniere meuniere style, food is seasoned, dusted with flour, and sauteed in b.u.t.ter, with a pan sauce created by the addition of lemon juice and parsley. In the b.a.s.t.a.r.dization that follows, dried thyme is ground and added to the flour, then the b.u.t.ter is turned into a light mustard cream sauce at the last possible minute. Why did I go to the trouble of changing something that was already perfect? So I could call the dish "Miller Thyme Trout," of course. style, food is seasoned, dusted with flour, and sauteed in b.u.t.ter, with a pan sauce created by the addition of lemon juice and parsley. In the b.a.s.t.a.r.dization that follows, dried thyme is ground and added to the flour, then the b.u.t.ter is turned into a light mustard cream sauce at the last possible minute. Why did I go to the trouble of changing something that was already perfect? So I could call the dish "Miller Thyme Trout," of course.

Application: SauteingGrind the thyme to a powder in a coffee grinder and mix it into the flour. Season the mixture with salt and pepper and dredge the fish in it. Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat and add the b.u.t.ter. When the b.u.t.ter begins to foam, carefully lay in the fish, flesh side down. Cook until lightly brown, about 3 minutes, and then flip and cook the skin side for another 3 minutes. Remove the fish to a serving plate. Stir the mustard and cream into the pan and bring to a simmer to thicken. Pour over the fish and serve.Yield: 1 servingSoftware: 1 tablespoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon dried thyme 1 cup flour Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 whole b.u.t.terflied trout (about 8 ounces) 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard cup heavy cream or milk Hardware: Coffee grinder Coffee grinder Container for dredging Large saute pan

Bean and Garlic Saute Although the step known as "sauteing" is most often an opening gambit in a grander construction (how many recipes do you know of that don't don't begin with something like: "Saute the onion in the oil"?), sauteing can also be the finishing touch, as in this simple bean recipe. Although b.u.t.ter is notorious for burning, no other common fat browns food as well or brings as much flavor to the party. Tempering it with a heat-friendly oil will keep the b.u.t.ter in line. begin with something like: "Saute the onion in the oil"?), sauteing can also be the finishing touch, as in this simple bean recipe. Although b.u.t.ter is notorious for burning, no other common fat browns food as well or brings as much flavor to the party. Tempering it with a heat-friendly oil will keep the b.u.t.ter in line.

Application: SauteingPlace the b.u.t.ter in a cold saute pan and place over high heat. As soon as the b.u.t.ter melts and stops foaming, add the pecans and toss until they darken slightly.21 Remove the nuts from the pan and set aside. Remove the nuts from the pan and set aside.Add the oil to the pan and swirl to coat the bottom. Add the beans, season with salt, and toss until the beans start to brown in places, approximately 2 minutes.Add the garlic and toss until fragrant.Toss in the nuts, remove from the heat, and drizzle with the vinegar.22Yield: 2 side servingsSoftware: 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter cup pecan pieces 1 tablespoon peanut oil pound slender green beans, blanched Kosher salt 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon sherry or red wine vinegar Hardware: 10-inch saute pan 10-inch saute pan

Sweet-and-Sour Tofu I'm a huge sweet-and-sour fan and, oddly enough, I think this dish captures what a sweet and sour should be about: contrasts of flavor and texture. Why the tofu? Why not? It absorbs flavor better than meat and fries beautifully. And it's better for you than meat, too.

Applications: Marinating, Immersion-Frying, SauteingDrain the tofu, slice each "brick" lengthwise into 4 equal pieces, and set on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Place a couple of paper towels on top, cover with a second baking sheet, and weight with cans of food. Set aside for at least 30 minutes, then cut into 2-inch cubes and place in a large mixing bowl. In a small mixing bowl, combine the soy sauce, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the ginger, cup flour, and the cornstarch. Pour over the tofu and allow to marinate, refrigerated, overnight. Drain off any excess liquid (there won't be much; it gets pretty sticky), and dredge the tofu in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. In an electric fryer, heat the vegetable oil to 350 F and fry the tofu until golden brown on all sides. Work in batches, setting the fried tofu aside on a warm plate.In another small bowl, combine the ketchup, sugar, vinegar, and honey, and mix to blend. Set the sauce aside.In a small roasting pan over medium heat, heat the canola and sesame oils. Saute the remaining ginger in the oil for 30 seconds, then add the vegetables and pineapple. Raise the heat to high; you should get a little caramelization without softening the vegetables too much. Work in batches if necessary. Add the tofu to the vegetables and pour in as much sauce as you like. Bring to a simmer and cook until the sauce is bubbling and has a nice shine. Remove to a platter and serve with any remaining sauce on the side.Yield: 8 servingsNote: Firm tofu is sold in 1-pound bricks. It is important to slice lengthwise so the pan will weight equally on each piece and the pieces will be pressed evenly. Firm tofu is sold in 1-pound bricks. It is important to slice lengthwise so the pan will weight equally on each piece and the pieces will be pressed evenly.Software: 2 pounds firm tofu 2 pounds firm tofu 1 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons minced garlic 3 tablespoons minced ginger cup flour, plus more for dredging cup cornstarch Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil for frying 3 cups ketchup cup sugar 2 cups red wine vinegar cup honey 2 tablespoons canola oil 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 cup chopped Vidalia onion 1 cup chopped celery 1 cup carrots, sliced inch thick on a bias 1 cup chopped red bell pepper 1 cup chopped green bell pepper 2 cups cubed (1-inch pieces) fresh pineapple (canned is too sweet) Hardware: 2 baking sheets 2 baking sheets Paper towels Cans of food for weight 2 small and 1 large mixing bowl Electric fryer or heavy Dutch oven fitted with a fat/candy thermometer< small="" roasting="" pan="" or="" large="" saute="" pan="" wooden="" spoon="" large="" serving="" platter="">

Artichoke and Feta Wontons Unlike ravioli, which are generally made with a mechanism of some sort, wontons are typically hand-filled and folded. If the wantons are seared only on one side and left to stick to the steel's steely grasp until the liquid sets them free, then you're making pot-stickers. If you prefer this method to the one detailed below, tear out this recipe and tape it into the searing section of this book. But if you like to shake the food in the pan and sear both sides as I do, leave it here.

Application: SauteingFire the hot-box to 200F.In a medium mixing bowl, combine the artichokes, feta, bacon, scallion, egg, salt, and pepper. Heat the 1 cups water or broth in an electric kettle.To form the wontons, remove one wonton wrapper from the package, covering the others with a damp cloth. Brush the edges of the wrapper lightly with cold water. Place 1 rounded teaspoon of the mixture in the center of the wrapper. Shape as desired. Set on a half sheet pan and cover with a damp cloth. Repeat procedure until the entire filling is gone.When you do this for the first time you'll swear that the wonton can take more. It can't.

Heat a 10-inch nonstick saute pan over medium heat, and once hot, spread a tablespoon of oil around the bottom with the basting brush. When the oil just starts smoking, which will probably be about two seconds after you put down the brush, place 10 to 12 wontons to the pan and saute until golden; approximately 2 to 3 minutes per side. Gently add cup of hot water or stock per pan full of wontons. Cover and cook until liquid evaporates, approximately 2 minutes. Remove wontons to a heatproof platter and place in the warm oven. Repeat until all wontons are cooked. Serve immediately.Yield: 35 to 40 wontonsSoftware: One 14-ounce can artichoke hearts, One 14-ounce can artichoke hearts, drained well and chopped 4 ounces (approximately cup) feta cheese, crumbled 6 slices bacon, cooked until crisp and chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped scallion 1 whole large egg, beaten teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cups hot water, chicken broth, or vegetable broth 35 to 40 wonton wrappers 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil for sauteing Hardware: Cutting board Cutting board Chef's knife Digital kitchen scale Medium mixing bowl Electric kettle Bowl of water Small pastry brush Half sheet pan Two tea towels 10-inch non-stick saute pan with lid Heatproof platter Natural bristle basting brush

CLOSING WONTONS THE EASY WAY.

Remember, barely wet the edge all the way around.I use my finger, but you might prefer the brush.

Sauteed Popcorn When you consider that the French definition of saute is "to jump," this might be the most seriously sauteed dish of all.

Application: SauteingPlace the oil, popcorn, and salt in a large metal mixing bowl. Cover with heavy-duty aluminum foil and poke ten slits in the top with a knife.Place the bowl over medium heat and shake constantly using a pair of tongs to hold the bowl. Continue shaking until the popcorn finishes popping, approximately 3 minutes.Remove the bowl from the heat and carefully remove the foil. Stir in any salt that is on the side of the bowl.Melt the b.u.t.ter in the microwave and then slowly drizzle it over the popcorn while spinning the bowl. Serve immediately.Yield: 3 to 4 quartsNote: Although kosher salt works fine, popcorn salt-with its extremely fine grain size-will stick better. Does that mean you should buy popcorn salt? No. It means you should take some kosher salt (say, a cup) for a spin in ye olde food processor. I find that 10 to 12 two-second pulses do the job nicely. You'll be left with about cup of popcorn salt. Although kosher salt works fine, popcorn salt-with its extremely fine grain size-will stick better. Does that mean you should buy popcorn salt? No. It means you should take some kosher salt (say, a cup) for a spin in ye olde food processor. I find that 10 to 12 two-second pulses do the job nicely. You'll be left with about cup of popcorn salt.Software: 3 tablespoons peanut oil 3 tablespoons peanut oil 3 ounces (about cup) popcorn teaspoon salt (see Note Note) 3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter Hardware: 6-quart metal mixing bowl with 6-quart metal mixing bowl with sloping sides Heavy-duty aluminum foil Kitchen knife Tongs

Swiss Chard with Garlic and Tomato If you haven't made chard welcome at your table, you might want to do so. It tastes like a slightly bitter, slightly salty version of beet greens and it's packed to the gills with goodness, especially vitamins K, A, C, and magnesium, iron, and pota.s.sium. It's a super-food, all right, and this dish is designed to get more of it into you.

Application: SauteingBlend the b.u.t.ter and flour in a small bowl until a smooth paste is formed.Heat the olive oil in the saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes, and saute until the onions turn golden, about 7 to 10 minutes.Drop the heat to medium-low, whisk in the flour and b.u.t.ter mixture and cook for 5 minutes.Next, introduce the tomatoes to the party and keep whisking for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the chicken stock and whisk until the sauce is smooth and creamy. Add the cooked pasta and the chard and stir until heated through.Finish with the Parmesan and rosemary. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to your heart's content.Yield: 6 servingsSoftware: 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, softened 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, softened 2 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons olive oil cup diced onion 8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced teaspoon red pepper flakes 2 cups canned crushed tomatoes 1 cup chicken stock 16 ounces dry bowtie pasta, cooked 1 bunch Swiss chard, trimmed, blanched, and chopped cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped fine Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Hardware: Cutting board Cutting board Chef's knife Can opener 8-quart pot for blanching chard 6-quart pot for pasta Colander Small mixing bowl Whisk 12-inch saute pan Cheese grater

CHAPTER 5.

Boiling

Boiling . . . sure, you know it when you see it, but do you really know it?

Water Works

Dictionaries may define cooking as the application of heat to food, but there have been plenty of food thinkers through the ages who have postulated that cooking has less to do with heat than it does with water management. After all, there is no food that doesn't contain water and the changes that take place in food during cooking can largely be quantified by what happens to the water in question. Water is not only our most common cooking environment, it is the only one that can act as a heat conduit and a solvent at the same time, which is especially important in the making of stock. The stuff is everywhere and yet science has yet to get a good grip on water. You, as a cook, must get your head into water before you can get it around cooking. The stuff is everywhere and yet science has yet to get a good grip on water. You, as a cook, must get your head into water before you can get it around cooking.

What Is This Stuff, Anyway?

Begin by putting on a Mickey Mouse hat. Now stand in front of a mirror and take a serious look at yourself. Yes, you do look silly but you also look like a molecule of water-your head representing an oxygen atom and each ear a hydrogen atom. Each of these elements has a long and interesting career (being flammable helps), but what makes them particularly interesting here is how they're joined.

The reason the hydrogen atoms are attached Mickey Mouse-style to the oxygen has to do with oxygen's attraction to hydrogen's electrons. It pulls on their orbits so strongly that the hydrogens list to one side, resulting in an asymmetrical and electrically polar molecule. If oxygen weren't so greedy for electrons, your hydrogen ears would connect at 180 degrees (think Princess Leia). Of course, if that were the case water would boil at about 150 F; you wouldn't need a hat, because you wouldn't exist-nor would any other living thing. In short, the curious triangular configuration of the water molecule makes life (and cooking) on earth possible.

In its solid state, water's molecules are ordered and equally s.p.a.ced, as if taking part in a very slow line dance. As it warms up, the bonds that hold it in this rigid but open pattern release, and you've got something like a disco on your hands. Now the molecules are packed tightly together and every atom on each molecule is free to hook up with other atoms on other molecules via hydrogen bonds. At any given time, dozens of water molecules can be loosely bound together in a molecular group hug. A food item placed in this environment is going to come in contact with a lot of water molecules and will conduct heat from them while getting physically tossed around a bit.

WHAT'S IN YOUR BOTTLE?

Ever responsive to human needs, marketing mavens have made it possible for every American to pay a buck for a pint of water. Waterheads not only proclaim their favorite brands but their own ability to discern the differences between glacial water and mineral water.This is not to say that the flavor of water doesn't matter; it does. I'm just not ready to have a waiter hand me a water list along with my menu.The government, in its wisdom, recognizes and enforces the following designations.Aquifer (a large, naturally occurring underground cistern). Drill into it, and pump or lift the water out. That's well water.Aquifers often run with the strata of the land as they dip and curve and are perfect for an artesian well. If you drill into an aquifer at a particularly low point, the majority of the water will actually rest above the level of the well itself, so its own weight pushes the water out of the well. The only difference between a spring and an artesian well is that spring water finds its way to the surface unaided.Spring water must come to the surface under its own power. It can be drilled for, but only if the resulting supply is chemically identical to the natural flow. It can even be pumped from the ground, but only if the original spring continues to flow.Bottled water that contains at least 250 parts per million total dissolved solids can be called mineral water. Said minerals include calcium, magnesium, and sodium. Since it does contain minerals, mineral waters do possess actual flavors, even if they're unflavored by man.