I'm Just Here For The Food Part 8

Fats for Cooking

Fat is one of the body's basic nutrients. According to Harold McGee in his On Food and Cooking On Food and Cooking, fats account for about 10 percent of daily caloric intake in developing countries, while in affluent societies like our own the figure is more like 40 percent.

As consumers, we became saturated with fat talk years ago when doctors decided that fat was bad. Since Americans have been steadily plumping up for the last few decades, this wasn't a great leap of quantum thinking. But then somebody figured out that different fats elicit different responses in the body, depending on their saturation. Thus began the great dialogue and even greater confusion regarding the nature of saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated fats. As for cholesterol, well, let's just say that the amount of cholesterol in the foods we consume is not necessarily reflected in the amount of serum cholesterol in our bloodstream. But, just in case you've been buying one particular brand of vegetable oil simply because the container proudly proclaims it "cholesterol free," you can feel safe and secure in knowing that it's true. Of course, there's no such thing as a vegetable oil containing cholesterol. Only animal products, such as lard, contain cholesterol.

All culinary fats are called triglycerides. The term refers to the fats' molecular architecture, comprising three fatty acids that are esterified, or hitched, to a glycerine molecule. The structure of these fatty acids greatly determines how the fat is going to act when it gets into the culinary (and biological) food chain. Although there are a lot of different fatty acids (a whole lot actually), they all fall into one of three categories: saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated.

A fatty acid is basically a long chain of carbon atoms. Besides being anch.o.r.ed to the carbon in front as well as behind, each carbon has two chemical arms that can each hold a hydrogen atom. When all the carbons in a chain have their hands full of hydrogen, it is saturated, meaning that it can hold no more. Fats high in this kind of fat tend to be solid at room temperature, and they make cardiologists nervous.

If two adjoining carbons on a chain are lacking a hydrogen (this always happens in twos; there are never singles or threesomes), they join hands, creating a double bond.

FRY VESSELS.

Until recently I did all my frying on the cook top in a big Dutch oven. I still fry french fries there because I use a two-pa.s.s method, which requires a pa.s.s at 300 F, then another at 350 F. That said, I recently came into possession of an electric fryer and I have to say, I like it.I'm not talking about one of those fancy Italian numbers with the hinged lid and the "cool touch" cha.s.sis. This thing looks like a dark metal bucket with a cord coming out of the base. It's called a "Dual Daddy" and it's nice and wide but still deeper than wide, which is good. And get this: no thermostat. It shoots for about 380 F, then waits like a dog by the door. You put in the food, and unless you really overload it you'll never see the underside of 320 F. I've learned this with the help of a fat/candy thermometer, which comfortably fits on the side of the fryer. I never add food until the oil has reached its full 380 F and I never put in enough food to cause the oil to drop below 320 F.Using this device, I have gotten the cost of cooking a large bag's worth of potato chips down to approximately 22 cents. The only craft to using this device is knowing how much food to put in at one time. This simple frying device comes with a big snap-on plastic lid; the implication is that you store your cooking oil in the device itself, but this is not a good idea since the more oil/air air contact you have the faster the oil will oxidize and go rancid.

If this occurs just once on a chain, the fatty acid is referred to as monounsaturated, meaning that there is a vacancy, but only one. If there are more vacancies along the chain, it is polyunsaturated.

All fats contain all three types of fatty acids. What decides how a fat is to be cla.s.sified depends on how many of each kind there are (see ill.u.s.tration ill.u.s.tration).

Folks in lab coats are still duking out whether mono- or polyunsaturates are better for us. Culinarily speaking, things are a little more cut and dry. But there are still choices and trade-offs.

FRYING: THE WRAPAROUND PAN.

Frying works so well because it conducts high heat to the entire surface of whatever it is you're cooking. It's as if you had a pan that could wrap itself around the food. And when done right, very little of the fat is actually absorbed into the food being fried. The trick is to choose your fat wisely.

Fat Saturations

Fats high in saturated fatty acids create wonderfully crisp fried foods, but saturated fats have relatively low smoke points low smoke points so you don't get much use out of them and they're not very good for you. Saturated fats come from animal sources and can hold their shape at room temperature. The most commonly used saturated fats are b.u.t.ter, lard, and suet. so you don't get much use out of them and they're not very good for you. Saturated fats come from animal sources and can hold their shape at room temperature. The most commonly used saturated fats are b.u.t.ter, lard, and suet.

FAT FACTS.

* All oils are fats, but not all fats are oils. All oils are fats, but not all fats are oils. * * If a fat comes from an animal, it's considered a fat. If it's a liquid at room temperature, it's considered an oil. If a fat comes from an animal, it's considered a fat. If it's a liquid at room temperature, it's considered an oil. * * All animal fats are solid at room temperature, which is why we say "chicken fat" rather than "chicken oil." All animal fats are solid at room temperature, which is why we say "chicken fat" rather than "chicken oil." * * All vegetable fats (except coconut and palm) are liquids and therefore oils. All vegetable fats (except coconut and palm) are liquids and therefore oils. * * Since cooking fats degrade steadily once they cross about 140 F, I add the fat to a hot pan rather than heating it along with the pan. Since cooking fats degrade steadily once they cross about 140 F, I add the fat to a hot pan rather than heating it along with the pan. * * Shortening is great for frying. Since it's used as a baking ingredient, it's very refined. That results in a nice, golden-brown skin on chicken and, more important, no frying odor in the air. Shortening is great for frying. Since it's used as a baking ingredient, it's very refined. That results in a nice, golden-brown skin on chicken and, more important, no frying odor in the air. * * Lard is rendered or clarified pork fat, the quality of which depends on the area the fat came from and the method of rendering. Lard is richer than many other fats. When subst.i.tuting lard for b.u.t.ter in baking, reduce the amount by 20 to 25 percent. Lard is rendered or clarified pork fat, the quality of which depends on the area the fat came from and the method of rendering. Lard is richer than many other fats. When subst.i.tuting lard for b.u.t.ter in baking, reduce the amount by 20 to 25 percent. * * Suet is a solid fat found around the kidneys and loins of beef, sheep, and other animals. Suet is a solid fat found around the kidneys and loins of beef, sheep, and other animals. * * The Belgians are even more into The Belgians are even more into pommes frites pommes frites than we are and they swear by horse fat. I've been to Belgium, I've had the frites, and my money's on Mr. Ed. Horse fat is, however, oddly absent from the American supermarket shelf. than we are and they swear by horse fat. I've been to Belgium, I've had the frites, and my money's on Mr. Ed. Horse fat is, however, oddly absent from the American supermarket shelf.

Unsaturated fats don't fry up quite as nicely as oils high in saturated fats, but they have high smoke points so they can be used more than once (if you're careful with them). Unsaturated fats are primarily derived from plants and are usually in the form of an oil. Monounsaturated fats include olive oil and peanut oil. These fats are known to aid in the reduction of LDL cholesterol levels. Fats high in monounsaturates are ten times less shelf-stable than saturated fats and have low smoke points.

Polyunsaturated fats include safflower, sunflower, soybean, corn, and sesame oils. These fats are also better for your health but because their carbon chains have empty hands on them, nasty molecules (oxygen, for instance) can dock with the fat, making it go rancid quickly.

Just to make things a little more complicated, there are hydrogenated fats and trans fatty acids, both results of tinkering by the big, hairless monkey.

In order to make a polyunsaturated fat solid at room temperature or resistant to rancidity, hydrogen is pushed into the molecule so that those empty seats won't be taken up by undesirable substances. Fatty acids receiving this elemental transfusion straighten out physically, which makes it easier for the fat to lock up with its neighbor. The result is a fat that's solid at room temperature and opaque rather than clear. Vegetable shortening is a good example of this kind of fat. Unfortunately, any health advantage that might have been gained by the unsaturated nature of the fat is blown out of the water by the fact that the added hydrogen essentially saturates the fat. A trans fatty acid is simply a polyunsaturate that has been partially hydrogenated. Most nonb.u.t.ter, b.u.t.tery spreads employ trans fatty acids.

"Fat" here is a blanket term for triglycerides. Technically speaking any triglyceride that is solid at room temperature is called "fat." Any triglyceride that's liquid at room temperature is called an oil. There are two exceptions: palm oil and coconut oil, both of which are solid at room temperature but for some reason are still referred to as oils rather than fats.

Smoke Points

The smoke point is the temperature at which a heated fat starts to release smoke and acrid odors and lend an undesirable taste to food. When a fat reaches its smoke point, it is degrading very rapidly and certain compounds are escaping as vapor. This is why a thermometer should be used all the time, no matter what.

It seems pretty clear that if an oil's smoke point drops a few degrees (as much as 10 F) each time it's used, you're better off starting with an oil with a very high smoke point-either peanut, corn, soybean, or safflower.

Approximate Smoke Point Ranges for Common Fats

Fried Green Tomatoes Okay-so I'm Southern.

Application: Pan-FryingSlice the tomatoes into -inch rounds and spread out on paper towels. Top with another layer of paper towels and allow to drain. (The key to successful fried tomatoes is that they must be as dry as possible prior to breading; otherwise the coating will peel off in sheets after cooking.) Meanwhile, mix the flour and cornstarch and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. In a separate container, beat the eggs until slightly fluffy. Put the cracker crumbs in a third container. In a skillet, heat inch of oil to 350 F. Season the dried tomato slices with salt and pepper, dredge in the flour mixture, then dip in the egg, and then press into the cracker crumbs to coat. With tongs, working in batches, gently lay them in the pan and cook until crisp and brown on one side, then flip and brown the other side. Transfer to a rack as they are done. I eat my 'maters with hot-pepper vinegar and a gla.s.s of sweet iced tea.Yield: 4 side servingsSoftware: 3 green tomatoes, each about the 3 green tomatoes, each about the size of a baseball cup flour cup cornstarch Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Pinch of cayenne pepper 3 eggs 2 cups fine Ritz cracker crumbs Vegetable oil for frying Hardware: Paper towels Paper towels 3 containers for dredging 10-inch cast-iron skillet or heavy- bottom pan Oil thermometer Tongs Rack

Eggplant Parmesan Cheese provides a perfect moisture barrier between the crisp coating and the tomato sauce. But sauce lightly; too much liquid will destroy the crispness you've worked so hard to create.

Application: Pan-FryingCut the eggplant into -inch slices either crosswise (round slices) or lengthwise (long slices), depending on your preference. Liberally sprinkle the slices with kosher salt and lay out on a baking sheet lined with paper towels (stacking is fine as long as the stacks are equal in height). Top with another layer of paper towels, place a second baking sheet on top, and then weight it down. Allow to press for 30 minutes. Rinse away the salt and pat dry. Season the flour with teaspoon kosher salt and pepper, dredge the eggplant slices in the flour, then dip them in the egg mixture. Mix the panko and the Parmesan and coat the eggplant slices with the mixture.In a heavy-bottom pot, heat inch oil to 350 F. Fry the slices in batches until brown on the bottom, then turn and brown the other side, about 5 minutes total. Remove to a rack and hold in a warm (250 F) oven until all the slices are ready.Meanwhile, heat the tomato sauce. Pull the rack of fried eggplant slices out of the oven and crank the heat up to 375 F.To a.s.semble, in a gla.s.s baking dish lay one eggplant slice and top with provolone, spread a very thin layer of sauce over the cheese, and repeat with two more layers, or until all the eggplant has been used. Sprinkle with Parmesan. Bake until the cheese is melted.To serve, ladle a bit of sauce on the plate and place the hot stacks in it. (Or, you could build the stacks in small individual baking dishes and serve them right from the oven.)Yield: 2 entree or 4 side servingsSoftware: 1 medium to large firm eggplant, 1 medium to large firm eggplant, with tight, shiny skin Kosher salt for pressing the eggplant, plus teaspoon cup flour teaspoon freshly ground pepper 3 eggs and 3 ounces of water beaten together cup panko (j.a.panese breadcrumbs) cup grated Parmesan, plus additional for the table Canola oil for frying 1 cup tomato sauce cup shredded provolone cheese Hardware: 2 baking sheets 2 baking sheets Paper towels 3 containers for dredging Heavy-bottom pot or cast-iron pan Rack Gla.s.s baking dish

A Pack of Wild Corn-Dogs I really resent the fact that adults are supposed to give up certain foods, especially those that bring back fond childhood memories. I don't have any fond childhood memories involving fois gras or blowfish or caviar (other than as fishing bait). I do however have fond memories of corn dogs. When I was a kid the carnival came to town every year and each year I had to beg, and I mean beg, my dad to take me. He hated carnivals because he knew everything was a rip-off-the games, the shows, the rides, the food. But each year he'd eventually give in and each year I got a corn dog. Years later I came across a piece of Texas history that suggested that German sausage makers who settled in the San Antonio area came up with the idea of encasing their goods in cornbread batter. By the way, don't use skewers, they...oh just trust me.

Application: Pan-FryingHeat the shortening in an electric skillet. Set the thermostat to 350 F. (Do not go beyond this temperature or the shortening will burn.)Combine the flour, cornmeal, salt, baking soda, baking powder, and cayenne. In a separate container, combine the jalapeno, corn, onion, b.u.t.termilk, and cup water. Pour this wet mixture into the dry ingredients, stirring just to thoroughly combine. Allow the batter to rest for 10 minutes.Thoroughly pat the franks dry. Dredge the franks in cornstarch, being sure to shake off all the excess, then dip them in the batter. Immediately add to the hot fat. As soon as the batter is set on the bottom side, roll the corn dog over to cook the other side. Turn every minute until the outer skin is mahogany brown and crunchy, about 6 minutes total. Drain briefly on a draining rack. Grasp the corn dog firmly with a towel and push in a Popsicle stick for a handle. (Leaving the handles off until the cooking is over makes for a lot more room in the pan. Besides, there's no other way to keep the handle from getting greasy-and a greasy handle is the last thing you need when you're chompin' a corn dog.)Yield: 4 corn dogsSoftware: 4 cups vegetable shortening 4 cups vegetable shortening plus cup all-purpose flour cup yellow cornmeal 1 tablespoon salt teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder teaspoon cayenne pepper jalapeno chile, seeded and finely minced cup fresh corn kernels, pounded slightly cup grated onion 1 cup b.u.t.termilk cup water 4 franks or precooked sausages (I'm partial to buffalo sausages) Cornstarch for dredging Hardware: Electric skillet Electric skillet 3 containers Draining rack 4 Popsicle sticks

Chip Chop Application: Pan-FryingPreheat the oven to 250 F. Put the chips in a zip-top freezer bag, seal, and roughly crush them. Don't go for a uniform meal, just beat them up: you want a contrast of size and shape. Transfer the chips to a pie pan. Beat the egg together with 2 teaspoons water and place the mixture in a second pie pan. Place the chop in a third pie pan and dredge with seasoned flour. Shake off any excess flour and coat the chop in the egg mixture. Drain briefly, then transfer the chop to the chip pan. Press on the pieces so that the chop is completely coated. Place on a rack and let the chop rest for 20 to 30 minutes.In the meantime, in a skillet, heat enough shortening to come halfway up the side of the chop to 350 F (it's tough to take the temperature of such a small amount of oil, which is one reason I prefer to work in an electric skillet).Cook the chop for 1 minute on each side, or until golden brown. Transfer to the rack and place the rack in the oven. Bake for 27 to 30 minutes or until the internal temperature hits 145 F.Serve the chop with something else golden brown like mac and cheese and a side bowl of collard greens. Or, if you think your arteries are up to it, fried green tomatoes.Yield: 1 serving, easily multiplied Software: 1 (12-ounce) bag salt-and-vinegar 1 (12-ounce) bag salt-and-vinegar potato chips (such as Lay's) 1 egg 2 teaspoons water 1 rib pork chop (1 to 1-inch thick, bone on), at room temperature Shake of seasoned flour Shortening or canola oil Hardware: Large zip-top freezer bag Large zip-top freezer bag Rack set over baking sheet 3 pie pans or round cake pans 10- to 12-inch cast-iron skillet or electric skillet Meat thermometer This is trash cuisine at its best.

Calamari Crunch Fried calamari may be the most popular restaurant appetizer in all of Christendom. I'm amazed that McSquid hasn't started popping out of drive-thrus worldwide. And yet we never make it at home. I asked a calamari-crazed friend of mine recently why this was. He simply replied, "Man, that's strictly restaurant food."That's silly. Calamari is a great home dish for snacking or entertaining. What's more, it plays well with others. Top a simple plate of spaghetti and tomato sauce with a handful of these golden rings and you've got...restaurant food. (By the way, feel free to replace the secret ingredient, Rice Krispies, with any brand of puffed rice cereal.)

Application: Immersion-FryingClean the calamari, removing the head and ink sac if necessary, and then the cartilage; rinse thoroughly. Cut the tubes of calamari into rings and make sure the beak has been removed from the tentacles. In a mixing bowl, combine the b.u.t.termilk and water, then place the small hand strainer inside the bowl. Add the calamari and toss to coat with the liquid.Add only enough oil to fill the fryer half-full, then heat the oil to 350 F.Meanwhile, in the plastic container combine the cornstarch, flour, cereal, salt, and pepper. Close the container and shake to combine.When the oil is hot, use the strainer to lift the calamari from the liquid, let it drain, and then transfer to the dredge mixture, scattering the pieces so they do not clump. Reseal the container and shake until the calamari is evenly coated.Using the spider and working over a plastic placemat, lift the calamari from the dredge, gently shake off any excess flour, and drop into the oil. Once the first burst of steam settles down, gently push down on the calamari with the spider to make sure that the rings don't fuse together.Work in batches to avoid overcrowding the oil. Folding the placemat like a funnel, return any excess flour mixture to the container and add more as needed.Allow the calamari to cook until it is just golden in color and floats to the surface of the oil, about 30 to 45 seconds. Remove one ring, cool it briefly, and give it a taste. If the crust has crunch and the calamari feels soft, you can remove the entire batch to the draining rig with a sweep of the spider. If you want a little more color, let it cook a little longer, but remember that calamari gets tough when overcooked. Repeat with the remaining calamari.Yield: 2 servingsNote: If you're serving a crowd, fight the temptation to cook too large a batch. Move your draining rig to a warm oven and stockpile the calamari as it's cooked-it will keep for up to 30 minutes without becoming rubbery. If you're serving a crowd, fight the temptation to cook too large a batch. Move your draining rig to a warm oven and stockpile the calamari as it's cooked-it will keep for up to 30 minutes without becoming rubbery.Software: pound calamari pound calamari 1 cup b.u.t.termilk cup water 1 cup cornstarch 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup Rice Krispies, ground fine in a food processor 2 teaspoons table salt (kosher salt will sink to the bottom of the dredge) 1 tablespoon freshly ground white pepper 2 quarts safflower or peanut oil Small hand strainer Mixing bowl just large enough to hold the strainer Sealable plastic container Large, long-handled, wide-mesh hand strainer (referred to in the trade as a "spider") Clean plastic placemat Electric fryer or heavy Dutch oven fitted with a fat/candy thermometer Draining rig

Paper towels soak up oil but then the food has to sit in it. Newspaper also wicks oil well, but the food still sits in the grease. And, many inks are fat soluble, so you get a nice reversal of newsprint on the food. Yum.

Racks are great except that fat (especially used fat) hangs in droplets under suspended bars and slowly soaks into food. What then must we do? The drainage answer: Turn the cooling rack over so that it's in direct contact with newspaper. That way oil runs off food over bars and onto paper. The food stays above the fray and no droplets acc.u.mulate on the rack.

Quick-Dip Potato Strips Once you taste your own you may never go back to store-bought chips again. I don't peel my potatoes here, but it won't matter if you do.

Application: Immersion-FryingPlace the drain basket of a salad spinner in its base (the bowl) and fill halfway with cold water.Heat the oil. When it reaches 350 F, use a vegetable peeler to carefully carve long strips off the potato, moving straight from end to end. As the flat side becomes wider, rotate the potato a bit so that you don't end up with a surface wider than the cutting plane of the peeler. Repeat this so that you end up with three flat spots on the potato to peel from. This way most of your strips will be of uniform width-that is, as wide as the cutting area of the peeler, and about 4 inches long. Allow these strips to fall directly into the water in the salad spinner.When you've cut about 15 strips, remove the basket from the bowl, drain the water, and spin the strips in the salad spinner to dry them; do not skip this step under pain of death.Hold the strips in one hand just over the hot oil (its temperature should be between 360 and 380 F). Move your fingers back and forth so that the strips fall separately into the oil. Be ready with a splatter guard because the oil will bubble furiously for a few seconds. When the bubbles subside, use a slotted spoon to gently push down on the strips to keep them fully submerged and separate. Do not stir. As the strips dry and stiffen you'll be able to flip them over, which will help to ensure even doneness.When the strips are pleasantly golden brown and the bubbles start to slow noticeably, spread the strips on a draining rack and immediately season with salt and pepper.(If you use brand-new oil, the first batch of potato strips may be on the pale side. If this is going to bother you, make the first batch small and cook it a little past what you would consider done.)Start peeling the next batch into the water, and repeat. The oil will be back up to temperature and ready to go by the time you are. While the new strips are in the oil, stack the finished strips in a serving dish.You'll be shocked how many of these potato strips you can get out of one spud. You'll also be surprised by how great they look. Above all, you'll be surprised by the flavor.Yield: A stack o' chips (which no matter how many you make, should be considered a single serving; if there's more than one person, there's going to be a fight).Note: If your strips go a little stale on you after a day or two, lay them on paper towels and microwave on high for a minute or two to drive out the moisture. If your strips go a little stale on you after a day or two, lay them on paper towels and microwave on high for a minute or two to drive out the moisture.Software: 2 quarts canola oil for frying 2 quarts canola oil for frying 1 very large russet baking potato Coa.r.s.e salt Coa.r.s.ely cracked black pepper Hardware: Salad spinner Salad spinner Electric fryer or heavy Dutch oven fitted with a fat/candy thermometer Vegetable peeler Splatter guard (optional) Large slotted spoon Draining rig

This application is even better suited to sweet potatoes. Since they contain a higher amount of sugar, they will burn quickly, so pull them when they hit a light mahogany. Oh and, if you don't mind, leave the peels on.

Saute: A Toss in the Pan

At the lighter end of the frying continuum there is the saute. I say "the" saute because it is both a method of cooking and a type of dish based on that method-"waiters" will say "a saute of baby leeks," while "servers" will say "sauteed onions." Ah, nomenclature's a cruel mistress.

Literally translated, sauter sauter means "to jump" in French. A chef (yes, a French one) said that when trying to dance your way from the bar to your beach blanket on a summer day on the Riviera, the hot pebbles of the beach make you "sauter." means "to jump" in French. A chef (yes, a French one) said that when trying to dance your way from the bar to your beach blanket on a summer day on the Riviera, the hot pebbles of the beach make you "sauter."

So the logic here is flawed even if the method isn't. While it's true that food doesn't cook in the air, maybe that's the point. If it were to remain stationary on the bottom of the pan, the small pieces of food would probably reach a nice toastlike consistency while the inside was still raw.

What you need: * high heat * high heat* a heavy, wide pan with sloped sides* a small amount of heat-friendly fat20 * food cut into uniform shape and size * food cut into uniform shape and size* seasonings (from salt and pepper to dried and fresh herbs, flavorful liquids such as vinegars and juices, and flavorful oils such as sesame and chile)* tongs for playing with your food

The Pan Without the right pan you cannot saute, which is not to say you have to have a saute pan. As discussed in the section on searing, a dense pan is going to heat more evenly than a light one, especially if it's a metal sandwich of steel wrapped around a slice of aluminum or, even better (but more costly), copper. Since this pan needs to move during cooking, eschew cast iron unless you have anchor tattoos on each forearm and a girlfriend named Olive.

SAUTe TIPS.

* Always include aromatics such as onions, garlic, ginger and shallots, which release huge amounts of flavor and aroma when heated. Always include aromatics such as onions, garlic, ginger and shallots, which release huge amounts of flavor and aroma when heated. * * Don't skip a final touch. Fresh herbs, a splash of wine or vinegar, even a teaspoon of orange zest bring a lot of flavor to the party in a hurry. Don't add these early on, though, or their essential oils will go up in smoke (well, steam actually). Don't skip a final touch. Fresh herbs, a splash of wine or vinegar, even a teaspoon of orange zest bring a lot of flavor to the party in a hurry. Don't add these early on, though, or their essential oils will go up in smoke (well, steam actually).

Since crowding the pan leads to stewing rather than sauteing, go for a wide-open plane of metal. I've got identical All-Clad saute pans in both 10 and 12 inches. They cost a bundle but my grandkids will fight over them one day and darn it, that feels good.

Non-stick Saute Pans

Yes, you can cook with amazingly small amounts of fat if you use the right non-stick pan, and that can be a good thing...maybe. The problem is, fat clings and conducts heat. Non-stick coatings (I'm a Teflon man myself) may conduct heat well but they do not cling. Therefore, there will be no flavorful browned bits on the bottom of the pan to deglaze and convert to sauce. And that's just a shame. That said, if a sauce is not in the offing, non-sticks do a fine job.

In the last couple of years, Teflon has come under considerable fire for giving off dangerous fumes. I first became aware of this in 2003, when several bird owners filled me in on the fact that Teflon fumes can easily kill exotics like parrots and c.o.c.katiels.Although the verdict is still out on the general health hazards of Teflon, I've decided to play it safe and have discontinued its use for high-heat cooking like sauteing.