History of Linn County Iowa Part 63

"The first brick building was erected in 1844, on the northwest corner of Iowa avenue and Washington street, by P.

W. Earle, and is now occupied by him. The Union House, on the northwest corner of Adams and Market streets, was the first hotel. It was destroyed by fire early in 1865. The first school house was erected in 1847, and the first school taught by Nelson Felch. This structure is now occupied as a dwelling on the north side of Eagle street between Jefferson and Madison. The first white child born was the daughter of John Vardy, now removed to Texas. The first church erected is that commonly known as the 'Muddy,' and is still used as a house of worship. It is a small 'grout' building at the southeast corner of Eagle and Adams streets. The first death was that of a young man by the name of William Brookey, some time in 1843. The first frame building was built by John Vardy.

"The lodge of Free Masons was established in 1850, and James Keeler, an Episcopal minister, was the first W. M. The lodge took the name of Cedar Rapids Lodge No. 25. Its name was changed in 1864 to the more euphonious and Masonic name of Crescent.

"The first newspaper was established by D. O. Finch, in 1854. Three volumes only were issued. D. O. Finch, James J.

Child, and James L. Enos, were successively its editors. The _Era_ was purchased in 1854 by James L. Enos, and the name changed to the _Cedar Valley Times_, by which name it still flourishes. C. M. Hollis, Esq., is the present editor. The second paper was the _Cedar Valley Farmer_, J. L. Enos, editor. The _Cedar Rapids Democrat_ was the third paper established, by W. W. Perkins & Co., in 1856. The _Voice of Iowa_ was commenced in January, 1857, by the Iowa State Teachers' a.s.sociation, and J. L. Enos elected editor. This journal reached a large circulation, and did much to give form to the school system of the state. The present public school edifice was erected in 1856-7-8, at a cost of some $15,000. It has six departments, and employs seven or eight teachers.

"Cedar Rapids was incorporated as a city in 1856, and Isaac Newton Whittam, Esq., was chosen the first mayor. A free bridge was constructed across the Cedar in 1855-6, but was soon carried away by the ice. As it fell, a large number were standing on the banks watching the ice as it rapidly tore the stone piers from their positions. Two sisters, daughters of Mr. Black, pa.s.sed by the guard, which was stationed at the end of the bridge to keep the people from pa.s.sing on, and had reached about the middle, when the frail fabric went down. Both young ladies were drowned, and the body of one was never recovered. A toll bridge was erected the following year, and though a slender structure, has thus far withstood the action of the ice, though occasionally broken down by cattle pa.s.sing over it.

"KINGSTON CITY

"Is a place of about 350 inhabitants, situated on the west side of the Cedar river, opposite the city of Cedar Rapids.

It is connected with this city by a wooden bridge, and is about one-quarter of a mile from the Cedar Rapids depot of the Chicago and Northwestern railroad. In the year 1838 Robert Ellis and O. Bowling settled on land in the vicinity, and in the year following Messrs. Isaac, John, and Joseph Lichtebarger settled where Kingston now stands. During the summer following David W. King and Thomas Gainor arrived here. The first child born was Mary Jane, daughter of T. and R. Gainor, on the 15th of May, 1840. Rosannah Gainor died on the 8th of June, 1840. This was the first death in the place. There is in the place one paper mill, one saw mill, two blacksmith shops, two groceries, and one dry goods store. There are three religious societies, Methodist Episcopal, Congregationalist, and United Presbyterian. There is also a commodious building for school purposes, and three libraries. This region of country is especially adapted to growing grain. Large quant.i.ties are annually shipped to Chicago from this place. The immense water-power will at no distant day make this a large manufacturing town."

The following as to early things in Cedar Rapids is taken from a copy of the _Cedar Valley Times_, J. L. Enos, editor, in 1865:

"On the 4th day of July, 1841, N. B. Brown began construction of a dam for utilization of the power. Carson, Gray and Roach soon sold their interests to Messrs. Brown and Greene, who became the sole proprietors of the water-power, and constructed the first saw mill in 1842-3.

This mill is yet standing in the rear of Brown's flouring mill, which was also the first grist mill, and erected in 1843, and extensively enlarged by the present owner in 1854-5.

"The first blacksmith in the place was Harrison Campbell, who opened a shop in Shepherd's old cabin in 1843. Isaac Cook, Esq., was the first lawyer, John L. Shearer the first justice, and James Lewis the first constable. The name of the first physician seems to be lost from the memory of the 'early day,' though many of his peculiar traits of character are remembered. Like some others in the profession he was disposed to blow his own trumpet, and the stories he told to the uninitiated ones were marvelous in the extreme. Once when he had returned from Muscatine he claimed to have lost forty pounds of quinine in one of the streams which put into the Cedar below the city--the water being unusually high.

His credit was evidently then better than afterward, as was also his physical courage. Constable Lewis, at one time called upon him with an execution to secure a judgment, when the doctor becoming wrathy, threw off his coat for a fight.

The constable being more intent on collecting the claim than emulous for notoriety as a pugilist, seized the coat and made away with it--finding a sufficient amount of money to pay the debt. Dr. S. M. Brice remained here for a few months and then removed to Center Point. Dr. E. L. Mansfield was the first physician who made a permanent location in this city, and still enjoys a large and lucrative practice. He came here in 1847 and has ever since been engaged in the n.o.ble endeavor--to heal the thousand natural ills that flesh is heir to.

"The first brick building was erected in 1844, by P. W.

Earle, Esq., on the west corner of Iowa avenue and Washington street. This building is still occupied by Mr.

Earle, and shows but little the marks of age. A three-story brick store was erected the same year on the south corner of Iowa avenue and Commercial street. This building has since been removed to make room for the block of stores extending from Iowa avenue down the west side of Commercial street toward Eagle street. Greene's hotel, a fine-appearing brick hotel four stories high, also occupied a portion of this ground. It was erected in 1853-4 by George Greene, and was kept by various persons as a first-cla.s.s hotel until it was taken down to make room for a new brick block, which was erected in 1862.

"The first store proper was opened in the building now standing on the north corner of Iowa avenue and Washington street, by Joseph Greene. As early as 1842 Mr. Greene had a store in one part of a log building located on the north corner of Commercial and Sugar streets, the other end of the same building being occupied as a boarding house or hotel.

"The first building erected for a hotel was built by William Dwyer in 1847, James Gunning being the first landlord. The building was destroyed by fire in January, 1865. It was known as the Union House and was located on the west corner of Market and Adams streets.

"The Adventists held meetings here as early as 1842-3; a Mr.

Baker being the minister. The Protestant and Episcopal Methodists also had organizations at an early day. The Presbyterians organized soon after and erected the first church edifice, known as the 'Big Muddy,' taking its name from the material of which it was composed. It is a grout building, occupying the east corner of Eagle street and Adams street. The Universalists had an organization here quite early and were 'ministered unto' by Rev. Mr. Westfall.

In either 1843 or '44 a somewhat noted discussion was held between Mr. Westfall, the Universalist, and Mr. Roberts, Old School Presbyterian, at which Joseph Greene acted as umpire.

The discussion continued for four days and nights. The meetings were largely attended and the combatants were sharp and excited. The conflict ended as such discussions usually do--in the victory of both--and this was regarded by nearly all as a drawn game.

"The first school was kept by Miss Emily Coffman. The first school building was erected in 1846-7, by a company consisting of N. B. Brown, George Greene, Alex. Ely, and others, who sold it to the district, and had the satisfaction of being taxed to pay themselves for it. This building was on the north side of Eagle street between Jefferson and Madison. It is still standing and is occupied as a dwelling house. Nelson Felch was among the first teachers, also a Mr. Freeman, who has since been receiving instruction in a state inst.i.tution located at Fort Madison.

"The second saw mill was erected by Alex Ely in 1844 and the second flouring mill in 1844-5. Mr. Ely died shortly after the completion of this mill. In 1848 N. B. Brown built the first woolen factory. The first steam engine was put up here in 1855 by A. Hager, in his sash, door and blind manufactory. He had an extensive amount of machinery connected with it and employed a number of workmen.

"The second store was established by Mr. Cleveland, and the third by C. K. Mulford. Mulford's store was afterward occupied as a dwelling, on the east corner of Commercial and Linn streets, and was destroyed by fire in 1850. That was the first fire in Cedar Rapids, and none occurred after it until the autumn of 1855, when most of the block on the west side of Commercial street, between Iowa avenue and Linn street, was destroyed. No precautions have been taken to prevent the spread of the destroying element, and were a fire to occur tomorrow no more means would be found of subduing it than existed twenty years ago. It would seem that a wise people would not thus neglect what may at any moment be of such vast importance. But so it is, and so it is likely to remain until a fire shall occur that will lay in ruins a large portion of our city and destroy thousands of dollars worth of property. Personal insurance can best cover a part of this loss and perhaps not one-half are provided with this protection."

[Ill.u.s.tration: REPRODUCTION _of_ THE FIRST MAP OF CEDAR RAPIDS (Part 1)]

[Ill.u.s.tration: REPRODUCTION _of_ THE FIRST MAP OF CEDAR RAPIDS (Part 2)

The old map was made in 1859 and the only copy now in existence is the property of Mr. Lew W. Anderson. It is yellow, faded and dim and in many parts was difficult to trace. It has been used many times as evidence in court in legal contests over property rights. The reproduction shows clearly the original plat of the city including Kingston, the islands, parks, squares, blocks, additions, stations, streets, names, etc. The street names have nearly all been changed since that time.]

Dr. Seymour D. Carpenter, who came to Cedar Rapids in 1849, contributed the below quoted memoirs to a _History of Crescent Lodge_, J. E.

Morcombe, author, and published by the lodge in 1906. It is of value in the consideration of the history of early times in the city and county:

"I wished to read law, but there was a family prejudice against the profession, and I concluded to study medicine and accordingly entered as a student the office of Drs.

Boerstler & Edwards, who were among the leading physicians.

There for a year I read books that were full of what are now exploded theories and practice, at the end of which time I was sent to the University of Pennsylvania, where two years after I was graduated as a doctor of medicine. Returning home in the spring of 1849, I remained but a few months and then started west 'to grow up with the country.' I again rode to Cincinnati on horseback, took steamer to St. Louis, thence by another boat up the Illinois river to Haverville.

Not liking the place, I rode west and crossed the Mississippi at Quincy and went to Kirksville in Missouri.

Still not pleased, I turned north and went to Ottumwa, Iowa, where I met Judge Greene, then a member of the supreme bench of Iowa. He persuaded me that Cedar Rapids was in the near future to become a metropolis, and I decided to go there.

After four days' hard riding and swimming several swollen streams, I struck the town on the afternoon of the 14th of June, 1849. I crossed the river on a rope ferry operated by David King, who lived in a cabin on the west side. On the other side of the river stood the cabin once the home of a man named Shepherd, and said to have been the resort of thieves in an earlier day. I cannot say that I was very favorably impressed by the thirty or forty mostly one-story unpainted houses that were scattered about near the river.

There seemed to be a great deal of sand, and the houses were so situated that there was no sign of a street. There were three two-story houses, one on the river near the foot of what is now Third avenue, called the 'Park house,' in which the Greenes had their store; one on second street in which John Coffman kept a hotel, and one on Third avenue, back of the Dows & Ely block, also a hotel, but keeper's name forgotten. I was discouraged and would have traveled further but only had about ten dollars left, and from necessity had to stop. I put up at the Coffman hotel, which, as I have said, was a two-story structure with a wing. It had been built of unseasoned oak lumber and was not plastered. The whole of the second story of the main building was in one room, and contained eight or ten beds and was the common sleeping room of the guests. The lumber had shrunk and there could be no complaint as to ventilation, however short the accommodations might be in other respects. I had hardly got settled before I was interviewed by old Joe Leverich, a noted character of Linn county of that day. He was known as the 'Bogus c.o.o.n,' because, as was alleged, he had to do with counterfeiters. He was a power in politics and was the kind of a man from which the modern 'pop' has evoluted. Joe looked me over, asked where I was from, where I was going, what my business was, etc., etc. I was somewhat indignant and tried to be sarcastic, but Joe, in terminating his interview, squelched me by remarking: 'Young man, a fellow that wears such a hat as you do may pa.s.s in this country, but I consider it d--d doubtful.' I unfortunately wore a 'plug' hat which was not the style in Iowa a half century ago. In subsequent years Joe and I became fast friends, and I became quite convinced that the shady stories told of him were the talk of enemies who were jealous of him because he was smarter than the great majority of them. I was with him when he died, and, although a free-thinker, he pa.s.sed away with all the calmness of a stoic philosopher.

"Within a week I made the acquaintance of all the people of the town. Among the leading persons were William and Joseph Greene, brothers of the judge, Lowell and Lawson Daniels, Homer Bishop and John Weare, all of whom were merchants.

The three stores of which they were the proprietors would not compare well with the department stores of today, but all the same they were department stores, and in their miscellaneous stocks the customer could find all he wanted, from castor oil to broad-axes. Pollock & Stewart were the blacksmiths, and the carpenters and wagon-makers were also represented, but I cannot recall their names.

"Dr. Mansfield took me as a partner, and in company with Judge Cook, we had a room, 1016, in a small one-story building opposite the mill, the other part being occupied by S. L. Pollock and family. His blacksmith shop was near by.

Our medicines were kept on a shelf and a store box made a table. Our bunks occupied one side and a few stools and two split-bottomed chairs made up our furniture. We took our meals at the Coffman house. Our field of practice embraced the settlers, not numerous, in the valleys of the Cedar and Iowa rivers and their tributaries. We made very long rides.

I was called to see a patient two miles above the present town of Vinton, not then begun. I got lost in the night and waited for daylight under a tree on the bank of the river at the very spot where Vinton now stands. Bilious fever and ague were the prevailing diseases, all the newcomers having to undergo one or both. As patients and clients were not very numerous, we had a good deal of leisure. Judge Cook was a fine reader and we took turns at Shakespeare, a copy of which we fortunately possessed. During the summer Dr.

Mansfield and myself built a story and half office on Commercial street, about the middle of the block on which the Daniels store was located. We had a mail three times a week from Dubuque and Iowa City. The Higley brothers did the service in a two-horse hack. I think Joseph Greene was postmaster. John Weare, Sr., was justice of the peace. He was a very original character, fond of company and full of interesting reminiscences extending back to the war of 1812, in which he had lost a leg. His small office was in the rear of Mrs. Ely's residence, which stood on the ground where the Dows & Ely block now is. He gave 'nicknames' to many people and places which stuck to them like burrs. The first Presbyterian or Congregational church building was begun that summer, and as the walls were built of cement, old Mr.

Weare named it the 'Muddy,' which it retained to the last day of its existence. Many buildings were put up that year with a corresponding increase in population. All the people were full of hope and ambition. We began to talk of railroads. The people of Dubuque and Keokuk, the leading river towns, started a scheme for a road running through the interior and connecting them. The people along the line, at Cascade, Anamosa, Marion, Cedar Rapids, Washington and Fairfield eagerly endorsed the project, meetings were held and it was resolved to hold two delegate conventions, on the same day, one at Anamosa, the other at Fairfield. We had a rousing meeting in Cedar Rapids. There were nearly a hundred people present, and they resolved to have the railroad forthwith. From our standpoint it was the government's duty to donate land, and for eastern people to furnish the money.

Delegates were chosen to both conventions. Dr. John F. Ely and myself were selected to go to Fairfield. Both conventions were to be held on the 6th of December, 1849. We left Cedar Rapids on the 3d of December and after three days' hard and cold travel reached Fairfield. Marion sent Col. I. M. Preston and Dr. Ristine. The convention met in a small school house. All the counties were represented. The Hon. C. W. Slagle, of Fairfield, then a very young man, was chosen president. I was chosen secretary. The little school house was packed, and if any doubt the courage and scope of that convention, let him look up the old file of newspapers of that day and read. Dr. Ballard, of Iowa City, Stewart Goodsel, of Brighton, Joseph Casey, of Keokuk county, and General Van Plank Van Antwerp were present and took active part. We parted for our various homes, thinking the work half done, but sad to relate, Cedar Rapids had to wait ten years longer for the locomotive. These two meetings were, as I think, the first railroad conventions held in the interior of the state. Soon opposition schemes were started for east and west lines, and our project was ignominiously called the 'Ram's Horn.' The next year was quite a stirring one. New people were coming in great numbers, but many were leaving, for the California fever had broken out. Several outfits left Cedar Rapids, and with one of them Dr.

Mansfield, my partner, whose place was taken by Dr. S. C.

Koontz, a cousin of mine, one well known to the old citizens. That year the first brick buildings were erected, a dwelling on Iowa avenue near Greene's opera house, and a three-story building on Commercial street, by Judge Greene, which for a long time was the show building of the town. We began to put on city airs.

"At this time Martin L. Barber was mayor of the village. It was before the present city organization. Barber was an eccentric character, a millwright by trade. He was nearly as wise as Solomon, with courage to match. A 'bad man' came to the town. He hung about the saloon. It was said he drew a knife and threatened to kill a citizen. The majesty of the law was invoked. It was night. The offender took refuge in the saloon and barricaded the door. The mayor called out the 'posse commitatus' numbering two or three dozen young fellows like myself. He pounded on the door, demanding admittance in the name of the law. No response. We got a piece of timber and battered down the door. The mayor collared the 'bad man' who offered no resistance. He was hurried towards the Coffman house, where the mayor proposed to deal out justice. As we neared the hotel he tore loose from the mayor and made for the river. We in full cry in pursuit. He plunged in just below the mill. We paused at the brink. Gradually he disappeared, and was never seen afterwards. It was the first and last exhibition of the mayor's power.

"In 1850 Miss Mary S. Legare, sister of the Hon. Hugh S.

Legare of South Carolina, came to Cedar Rapids. She was a woman of the highest culture, who had moved much in the official circles of Washington, and had considerable wealth.

With her came numerous relatives named Bryan, Storey, and McIntosh, the latter a well known lawyer of the early days.

She made investments in the town and took up large tracts of land. In the spring of that year we had a very spirited election. The people were divided into two factions, the 'codfish' and the 'catfish.' For mayor the former nominated N. B. Brown, the latter Jacob Bressler. I cannot recall the issues, but only remember that we almost came to blows during the canva.s.s. Less than one hundred votes were cast and Brown was elected. Brown was one of the original owners of the town site, and built the first mills. He was one of the prominent characters in the early history of the town, a modest, quiet, but genial man, with many friends.

"This year, on the 6th of July, I did one of the few wise acts of my life. I married Sarah Weare, the daughter of John Weare, Sr. We went to housekeeping in a small one-story house, near where the old pa.s.senger depot stood. It was then the only house east of the present railroad. The next year, 1851, was a very active one for the town. Judge Greene, who had lived in Dubuque, moved to the town. The same year came S. C. Bever, who had driven in a two-horse buggy from Holmes county, Ohio, to Cedar Rapids. By this time I considered myself an old citizen, thoroughly identified with the county and town, and devoted all my leisure time to meeting strangers and exploiting the town and county. I met Mr.

Bever soon after his arrival and spent several days with him riding about the country. He made large investments both in country and town. One was 160 acres about a mile from the ferry, at $5.00 per acre. I made the sale for Mr. Addison Daniels of Marion, who was so pleased with my effort that he presented me with a four-bladed penknife. Both Mr. Daniels and myself were satisfied and I have never heard that Mr.

Bever regretted the purchase. That same year my father, Mr.

Gabriel Carpenter, came out to see the country. After great effort on my part and many misgivings on his, he purchased of Mr. Levi Lewis 300 acres of land adjoining the town plat on the south, for which he paid $2,500. The land embraced the present cemetery. By this time Judge Greene had completed his three-story building, into which the Greene Bros. placed a large stock of goods. The most of their stock was brought up the river in a keel boat of forty or fifty tons capacity. It was rigged with a large square sail, but the princ.i.p.al power was men with poles, who shoved it against the current. They had loaded it with pork and sent it down the river in the spring.

"In 1851 occurred the great flood. Most of the lower parts of the town were under water. The grand lodge met that year at Ft. Madison, and at the time the river was at its highest point. We were cut off from all the neighboring country by the swollen streams, but the lodge thought it must be represented and I was chosen as the delegate. N. B. Brown suggested that I should go down the river in a skiff to a point opposite Muscatine, then by land to that place, which is only ten or twelve miles distant, then by steamer to Ft.

Madison. The lodge furnished the skiff. I found a companion.

We embarked in the morning and so swift was the current that we reached our destination by nightfall, and I was on time for the meeting. At the meeting I renewed my acquaintance with the grand master and the grand secretary, and met many brethren who became lifelong friends.

"In the spring of 1852 a steamboat came to Cedar Rapids. It was a great event, and brought in people from near and far.

She brought a full cargo of freight, among which was the household effects of Mr. Bever and my father, both of whom from that time forward became citizens of the town. This year also came Mr. Daniel O. Finch with a printing press and forthwith started the _Progressive Era_, the first paper in the Cedar valley. Ezra Van Metre, a talented young lawyer from Cincinnati, Ohio, also came that year. Every one was rejoiced that we had an organ and the editor was overwhelmed with original matter. There were at least a dozen young fellows in the town, myself among the rest, who thought they 'knew it all,' and anxiously rushed into print. The paper changed hands in a year or two, and became the _Cedar Valley Times_ and continued until a few years ago.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FEDERAL BUILDING, CEDAR RAPIDS]

[Ill.u.s.tration: AUDITORIUM, CEDAR RAPIDS]

"In the winter of 1852 I had a serious time in a professional way. A young man living at Quasqueton, Buchanan county, was riding across the prairie near that place and met a bear. The bear fled and he pursued. In crossing a strip of ice the horse fell. He was thrown and his foot stuck in the stirrup and he was dragged four miles over the snow, which was about six inches deep. In the mad flight the horse kicked and broke his right leg below the knee in two places. Finally the saddle turned, his foot was released and he was dropped on the lone prairie. The horse found his way home with saddle under his belly. This was on the evening of the 17th of December. A search was organized, but he was not found till the 21st, four days after the accident.

Fortunately the weather was not as cold as it sometimes gets, but his hands and feet were badly frozen. Cedar Rapids, about thirty-five miles distant, was the nearest point where doctors could be found. I was sent for and went by the way of Marion, and took with me Dr. Thomas Bardwell, who was then a student in Dr. Ristine's office. There was a road to Center Point. There we struck across the prairie to Quasqueton, eighteen miles distant, without a house. We reached there the evening of the 23d, nearly frozen ourselves, for the weather was bitterly cold. They had got the young man thawed out, but in a most miserable condition.

Mortification had set in, and there was no chance for the broken leg. Immediate amputation was the only hope, but I had no instrument but a small pocket case, and delay would be fatal. Necessity is the mother of invention. A butcher had just come to the place and had his tools. He sharpened his knives and filed his saw. A strong handkerchief was twisted, a knot made in the middle, which was placed over the main artery. It was tied tightly and a strong stick thrust under it and twisted till the circulation was shut off. Then with the butcher's tool I amputated the thigh four inches above the knee. Dr. Bardwell administered chloroform, which fortunately we had taken with us, and he encouraged me by word and deed. The young fellow, who was about 21, had never been sick a day in his life, rallied well and improved for about a week, but the other leg, which we hoped to save, began to mortify and there was nothing left but to amputate it. In the meantime we heard of a doctor about thirty miles away, in the direction of Dubuque, who had a case of instruments. I sent to borrow them. He refused to lend them but came back with the messenger and insisted, as he owned the instruments, he should perform the operation. That was not professional, but as I thought the patient had not more than one chance in ten to recover, I was not unwilling to divide the responsibility; so he amputated the other leg below the knee. During that winter I made eight trips between Cedar Rapids and Quasqueton on horseback, and the fellow recovered. He was the son of a well-to-do farmer in Harrison county, Ohio. His father came out in the spring, stole his son away without paying the doctors or the man in whose house he had been during recovery, and to carry ingrat.i.tude still further he procured a Methodist preacher to write his life, in which I was depicted as an ignorant butcher. This book he peddled about Ohio in person. I confess that when I heard he had been sent to the penitentiary for committing an aggravated rape I was not very sorry. This experience rather disgusted me with the practice of medicine in a new country. I was, however, in a way compensated, for I sent a history of the case to the New York _Tribune_, and its publication gave me quite a reputation as a fearless surgeon and thereafter I was called when surgery was required. As I have said before, I was in the habit of showing strangers about the country who wanted to buy land. In that way I became familiar with choice lots of vacant land. Greene and Weare dealt in land warrants, which they sold on a credit at three per cent per month interest. I knew of a section of land in the Iowa river bottom that I thought I should be able to sell. I borrowed the land warrants, entered the section and in less than two months had sold it for $3 per acre cash. That settled the matter. By one transaction I had made more than I had done in any year's practice. I sold out my medicines to Dr.