History of Linn County Iowa Part 62

_Cedar Rapids_

Cedar Rapids is not a new town. True, it has not been flourishing for centuries, like the old European cities, with histories which reach back several centuries, but as cities and towns in the middle west are spoken of, it has a lengthy history and one of more or less interest.

Young as it is, Cedar Rapids has no definite chronicle as to who was the first actual settler. Dyer Usher claimed that he and a companion gazed upon the beauty of its banks and admired the river at the upper falls as early as 1836. Osgood Shepherd maintained that he was the first actual settler, and that he opened a tavern here in 1837 or 1838.

He, at least, sold his squatter right in the embryo town, and made the first property deal involving landed rights in what later became the city. J. Wilbert Stone, also known as Bill Stone and William Stone, was here as early as any white man. He was born in the state of Rhode Island about 1803, and emigrated to Iowa Territory in the early thirties. Stone was a well educated, quiet, and refined man, who possessed all the traits of a trader. He drifted into Davenport and Rock Island, and came to Westport some time after William Abbe. No doubt he came from Rockingham up along the river looking for a place to barter with Indians, and the few white men who might come along as hunters and trappers. He conducted a small trading post at Westport some time in 1837, but whether he was the first storekeeper in the county is not known, as this honor has also been accorded to John Henry. Whether Henry bought Stone out or not is not certain, but this is true, that Stone disposed of his interests and removed ten miles by trail up to the lower rapids, at the bend in the Red Cedar river, where the large packing plant of the T. M. Sinclair Company now stands, and here laid out a squatter town, which he called Columbus. This town site is supposed to have been staked out on the east side of the river. The time must have been in 1837. He quarreled with Shepherd, who either came about the same time, or closely followed Stone. Stone, being a quiet, peaceable person, still single, was compelled to cross the river and take up a claim on the west side. Robert Ellis a.s.serts that he found the first small hut on May 8, 1838, on what became Cedar Rapids, and that it was located on the east side near the packing plant, and was occupied by Philip Hull. Had Shepherd sold this cabin to Hull after having driven Stone across the river? That might be probable, as Shepherd tried the same dodge on Ellis a few months later when he was building a cabin on his claim on the west side of the river. In that instance Shepherd had a prospective purchaser who was willing to go into Ellis's shack, and but for the nerve and presence of mind of Ellis, Shepherd might have succeeded. From Stone's daughter, still living, it would seem that Stone was the first actual settler who came here to trade with the Indians, and the first to lay out the squatter town which later became Cedar Rapids, and that this plat or staking out was on the east and not the west side of the river, all of which would be natural as all the other squatter towns had been staked on the east side, and thus were better defended from an attack of Indians or border ruffians, who were apt to congregate more frequently on the west side of the stream.

Robert Ellis walked into the town and found Hull, and later Shepherd, located in a small cabin, which he called a tavern situated on the river bank on what is now First avenue. Mr. Ellis also found at this time John Young, a Scotchman, Granger, Fisher, and another Scot by the name of Galloway. Shepherd laid claim at that time to nearly all of the land on the east side of the river and especially the land adjoining the dam site and the slough now called Cedar lake. A few hunters and trappers came now and then and remained at the Shepherd cabin for days at a time and then would depart as quietly as they had entered the crude hotel on the river bank. It has been reported that Shepherd harbored border ruffians and it has been said of him that while "he did not willingly steal, he had not scruples about harboring those who subsisted from that kind of traffic." So far as authentic records indicate, we have no written or reliable sources of information except hearsay, till Robert Ellis walked up the river and found the cabins of Hull and Shepherd on the east side of the river, which property rights were claimed by these parties as squatter owners. By this time Stone had removed to the west side of the river and had already erected a cabin. Being a single man he was not at home at all times, and thus might have been away at the time Ellis arrived. Ellis soon discovered from what Shepherd said as well as from what Stone had intimated, that these men were at outs, and the best way to keep peace was to have the river between them. Ellis had been out in the world long enough not to mix in the quarrels of other men and to keep as close-mouthed as possible about the troubles between sworn enemies. They never a.s.sociated after their quarrel. The daughter of Stone claims that her father told her many times that the reason he sold out and removed to the Iowa river bottom was on account of Shepherd's att.i.tude and that of the members of his gang toward him. These men feared that Stone would inform on them and wanted him out of the way so long as he refused to become an a.s.sociate of theirs or in any way to approve of their actions.

It would seem plausible that in a community where so many were law violators and enemies of law and order a man like Stone would not be tolerated and the ruffians would do all in their power to get him out of the way by intimidation or otherwise.

N. B. Brown, from what we have been informed by N. E. Brown and others, must have pa.s.sed through what became Cedar Rapids as early as 1839 but he did not locate here till the following year, when he first realized the full value of the falls and the feasibility of a plan to erect a suitable dam across the river which would furnish power to run saw and grist mills. Galloway, Young, Granger, O. S. Bowling, and a few others were here in the meantime, all holding down claims, but no one thought of any future city to be founded or of any valuable a.s.set in the water power which had never been harnessed to machinery. What appealed to them was the fact that the stream could be forded at this place, that the banks had plenty of timber, and that it was a sort of way station for straggling Indian trappers and hunters. Mr. Brown was not a frontiersman but a mechanic, who was a trained miller and looked into the future and saw that the location was ideal. While he had but little money, he could see far enough ahead that here would be the logical point for mills. Mr. Brown interested George Greene, H. W. Gray, A. L.

Roach, and S. H. Tryon, and they purchased from Osgood Shepherd an undivided three-fourths interest for $3,000. The other one-fourth interest was later sold by Shepherd to J. E. Sanford and Addison Daniels. Mr. Shepherd had nothing but a squatter claim to sell, but Brown and the others figured that it would be cheaper to buy him out than to make a fight on him, and so the bargain was made. From an old account book still in the possession of N. E. Brown, we cite the following:

"August 4, 1841. Commenced surveying 'Rapids City.' August 7, 2-1/2 days by N. B. Brown, same, S. Durham, same, J. W.

Carson, 1-1/2 days Geo. Greene, same, A. Daniels, 2-1/2 days O. Shepherd."

This proves that after the squatter right was purchased from Shepherd, and the embryo town was first named by Brown the actual work of surveying was commenced in August, 1841. All of the above named persons became later well known in the county. Greene and Tryon were clerks of court about this time, Durham was the newly arrived surveyor, while Daniels became a merchant and prominent business man. Sanford was an attorney and the owner of much land in this county, but died early leaving his estate to his widow and aged father, who resided in Connecticut. It would seem that Cedar Rapids was first called Columbus, next Rapids City, and finally Cedar Rapids, taking its name from the name of the river and the rapids which are formed here by the rock foundations in the river bed.

Shepherd lingered around the place till the next year, when he found that there was nothing further in his line, and that he was not interested in corner lots or in any enterprises such as appealed to Brown, David King, Greene, Sanford, Daniels, and many others. He disposed of all his remaining rights and left for Wisconsin with his family. He was later killed in a railway accident.

John Young also disposed of his squatter rights to Dr. J. R. Richey and J. W. Carson. These purchasers sold again to Brown the following year.

J. L. Enos, a newspaper man, has the following to say of Shepherd, writing in 1866: "The crimes committed by Shepherd and his gang were for years a constant annoyance. John Young and a man by the name of Granger were his immediate companions. The islands in the river, particularly the one above the dam, were used as places to conceal their plunder. A great many horses and much other property were stolen by them, and in many cases they succeeded in hiding their booty. It is known that this gang stole at one time six horses, getting away with four of them. Granger was later caught in Chicago and tried for pa.s.sing counterfeit money. He was sent to the Alton prison for four years.

Young, it is stated on reliable authority, was executed in a neighboring state, having been convicted of murder."

To prove that there is more or less truth in the stories as written of Shepherd by Enos, Mr. Ellis says that shortly after he had located on his claim and while he was building a cabin so as to hold his land, Shepherd and some stranger came along one day and Shepherd insisted that this was his claim and that Ellis should vacate as soon as he could, as there would be trouble in store for a newcomer who had the cheek to jump a claim of this kind. Ellis was much surprised and could not believe that Shepherd, with whom he had stayed for a short time, would come at him with such unfounded accusations. He had heard of the trouble with Stone and knew from Hull that Shepherd was not a very good man. Hull seemed to be all right. Ellis made up his mind that in a game of bluff he would not take a back seat, and that he had not come all the way from Pennsylvania on foot for nothing. He got mad and then did not stop to count noses, but raised his ax and came towards Shepherd, saying in his most emphatic way that the claim was his and that some one would get killed before he gave it up. He said he had picked out and improved the land and by right owned it till such time as the government saw fit to throw it open for settlement. He then accused Shepherd of some of the things he had heard and offered to back it up by proof if he wanted it. He said further, "You have bluffed others out of their claims, but you can't bluff me. You get off my land or I shall be compelled to use my ax." Shepherd moved away and the stranger turned pale and was uncertain whether he should run or stand there with his hands raised. He had never been in such a place before. Never again was Ellis molested, nor did Shepherd again refer to the unpleasant incident.

It was later rumored that Shepherd for a consideration was to locate the stranger on a good claim. He figured that as Ellis had already a cabin partially built this would be a good chance to get a bit of money and he reasoned that a stranger in the country would soon give in. He had not figured on the fact that Ellis was "the bravest of the brave,"

when it came to a question of a.s.serting his own rights, which he knew were just. From this little episode as to the character of Shepherd as displayed toward Ellis it would seem that Shepherd might have gone at Stone in the same manner in which he tried to treat Ellis, and by force and intimidation made him give up his claim. Shepherd's course while a citizen of Linn county was not an honorable one and few, if any, of his a.s.sociates speak of him except in an unfavorable light.

In April, 1839, arrived Joe and John Listebarger, who erected a small log house at what is now 818 North First street west and owned by Ferdinand Uebel. A younger brother, Isaac, arrived later the same summer. William Knowles erected a house on what later became known as Mound Farm. John Stambaugh built a log house in what is now Bever Park, which later was disposed of to John G. Cole. The upper part of the west side was settled by Farnham Colby, who came shortly after Ellis had staked out his holdings. During the years 1838-39 came others, such as Thos. Gainor, Joel and James Leverich, P. W. Earle, and many others. It was in July of this year that the family of Isaac Carroll arrived and located a little to the east of what is now Cedar Rapids. A son of Isaac Carroll, the Rev. George R. Carroll, writes as follows in his _Pioneer Life_: "I cannot now recall anything of importance on the way until we reached Linn Grove, where we found a few log cabins. In conversation with one of the women who occupied one of these primitive abodes we found that her language was so different from anything we had heard, that it left a decided impression on our minds and was a source of no little amus.e.m.e.nt to us children. Some of her peculiar expressions were by-words with us for many years. She seemed very cordial and ready as everybody was in welcoming newcomers, and she was quite communicative, although her accounts were not always of the most encouraging and inspiring character to the new arrivals.

"It was in the afternoon of July 4th, 1839, when we reached the county seat and the only thing to mark the spot was a bower of bushes under which our nation's birthday had been celebrated in primitive style and in which, judging from hilarious demonstrations of two or three men that we met on the way, whiskey must have played a somewhat conspicuous part. A little at one side of the town L. M. Strong had a little cabin. I do not remember of having seen either the cabin or the tenants at the time but Mr. Strong was for many years after a well known and highly honored citizen of this place. Pa.s.sing on beyond Marion we crossed Indian creek about a mile north of the present crossings and where there was a beautiful crystal spring, near which was a little cabin occupied by Mr. James W. Ba.s.sett. From this point, turning in a southwesterly direction, we found our way by a dim track through the woods reaching, towards night, the little bark shanty of Ephraim T. Lewis, near where now stands the stone barn just south of the boulevard two miles west of Marion.

Mr. Lewis and his son-in-law, Nathaniel G. Niece, were there and gave us a most hearty welcome and most cordial invitation to share their hospitality over night, which we gladly accepted.

"The next day we pa.s.sed a half mile west to the little hut of Mr. Jewell, later occupied by Barnet Lutz. Pa.s.sing on sixty or eighty rods west of Mr. Jewell's through the tall gra.s.s we found Mr. A. B. Mason breaking up prairie on the higher ground just north of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway at a point forty or fifty rods west of the boulevard crossing at Kenwood. This, I think, was the first furrow plowed between Marion and Cedar Rapids. Pa.s.sing Mr. Mason, we found ourselves in a few moments on the ground which was to be our future home. At a point of the ridge near the mound, which in later years has been extensively known as Judge Greene's Mound Farm, we pitched our tent, the little brook near by affording us water, and the grove close at hand furnishing wood and poles and bushes for the erection of a bower, which for a few days were to serve us as a kitchen and dining room."

In this company came also B. F. and C. C. Cook, step-sons of Isaac Carroll, and Sarah Carroll, a step-daughter. There were also the following children: Isaac W., George R., and Julia Carroll.

Mr. Carroll, in his interesting recollections of pioneer days, speaks of a number of people who at this time and in the next few years resided in and around Cedar Rapids, such as William Vineyard, who married Sarah Carroll, and various members of the Lewis family, who arrived that same fall. James Ferguson and his family, the Weare family, William Stewart, A. Sines, Arvin Kennedy, Isaac and William Cook, members of the Ely families, Dr. J. W. Traer, J. F. Charles, the Daniels families, and many others came a little later.

Thus within a few years from the time that Brown and others purchased the claims of Shepherd, the scene along the banks of the Red Cedar had changed from an Indian wilderness and a resort of border ruffians to a landscape bearing all the evidences of a high degree of civilization.

The old Indian burial grounds became the place of a Christian cemetery, and the pole tepees covered with leaves and skins were removed to make place for commodious log houses, erected by the whites.

In a study of the beginnings in Cedar Rapids it has seemed to the writer that heretofore due amount of credit for his work has not been given to N. B. Brown. His was indeed a constructive genius. He early interested himself in and in many instances began businesses that gave employment to labor, the backbone of any thrifty community. His enterprises were not always successful ones, whose are? All of them, however, were busy inst.i.tutions for a time, and while they were going they gave employment to many people. It seemed to be the rule to send strangers in the city seeking employment to Nick Brown if no one else had use for their services, they being told that Mr. Brown was sure to give them something to do.

And he always did as it was intimated he would do.

His manufacturing industries were many and varied. He built and operated saw and flour mills, woollen and knitting factories, at one time conducting two saw mills in the city, one on each side of the Cedar. He also at one time ran a saw mill on Indian Creek, south of town. He built a starch factory at McCloud's Run, and when this failed owing to the dismissal by his foreman of the only man who knew the secrets of the manufacture he converted the mill into a distillery, thus making a market for the corn raised in the county.

Some of his early account books are now in the possession of his son, N. E. Brown. They show page after page of names of employes in his various manufacturing enterprises.

It is scarcely possible at this date to give a proper estimate to the value of his services to the infant city. Pioneers of the energy and public spirit manifested by Mr. Brown were indeed of great benefit to the community in which they wrought, and honor and credit ought to be extended accordingly.

We are glad here to testify to the great worth of Mr. Brown along industrial lines in the pioneer days of our beautiful and prosperous Cedar Rapids.

For the first few years the settlers got along as best they could. They had few if any luxuries. Dubuque and Muscatine were the nearest markets. It required from six to fourteen days to make the trip and frequently longer when the roads were bad and when fierce storms overtook the party. Robert Ellis built three flat boats in the winter of 1841 and took a cargo of wheat to Burlington, trading this for a cargo of flour which he delivered safely at New Orleans, in July of that year. He got back during the summer but did not make any money out of the enterprise and never again cared to try the experiment. Many years later he received a settlement with the Burlington firm which was hard pressed for money and could not pay for the 4,000 bushels he had delivered. So while he did not get a fortune he perhaps came out even on this hazardous trip.

While it is true this daring enterprise failed to make Robert Ellis a wealthy man it did stir people up to the possibility of river traffic and that of course helped. The venture was talked over and over time and again, flat boats were built now and then, and a little grain shipped. Small steamers made Cedar Rapids in the early spring of the year, bringing a few groceries and notions, and taking away wheat, oats, pork, and a little corn.

Artificial dams in the river were talked of but that was as far as it went. No one was able to have any pull with the legislatures. Robert Holmes, an old Marion resident, had a grain house at Ivanhoe, and took cargoes of grain down the river in 1844, '46 and '51; Henry Thomson also ran a few flat boats on the river as far as St. Louis.

In 1858 a body of enterprising young men had built the steamer "Cedar Rapids" at Beaver, Pennsylvania, at a cost of $20,000, the stockholders being Wm. and George Greene, J. F. Ely, H. G. Angle, L. Daniels & Co., and W. W. Smith. This steamer ran during much of the spring and summer and late into the fall, and did a big business. But within two years in an accident on the Mississippi river the "Cedar Rapids" ran into another steamer, litigation ensued, and the owners lost everything they had made as well as the steamer.

Thus ended the first big adventure of the Cedar Rapids spirit. In the same year another steamer, the "Black Hawk," was built to run up the river to Waterloo and for a time did fair business. This was owned by W. D. Watrous, J. J. Snouffer, W. W. Smith, J. Stanley, and several others. This steamboat was sold to the government during the war and used as a supply steamer on the c.u.mberland and Tennessee rivers. At one time N. B. Brown was the owner of the boat. Just as the people were demanding that another company be formed to invest in another steamer enterprise the railways came, and now these daring business men centered their efforts in developing railroads and won out, but not until after many struggles, and after many failures. The people of Linn county surveyed, planned, and talked about several lines before they could realize the benefits of any.

The Chicago, Iowa and Nebraska Railway was organized in what is now Clinton on January 26, 1856, the first officers being Charles Walker, of Chicago, president, James Purdy, of Mansfield, Ohio, vice president, T. T. Davis, of Syracuse, New York, treasurer, R. H. Norton, secretary, and Milo Smith, of Clinton county, engineer. Many Cedar Rapids residents put up money and notes to have the road come through the city. Most of the necessary means were put up by eastern capitalists and especially by John I. Blair, one of the most enterprising of the early railroad promoters in America. Mr. Blair was born in New Jersey in 1802 and pa.s.sed away in 1892, one of the most noted men of this country. He was at least in an early day the owner of more miles of railways than any other man in the world, and had laid out more town sites and villages in Iowa and Nebraska than any other person in the west. It was John I. Blair who first saw the opportunity of making Cedar Rapids a center on account of its progressive people, the water power, and other advantages which this practical, wide-awake railway man saw here, and which were lacking in other localities. In June, 1859, the road was completed to Cedar Rapids. Its coming was the most important event in the history of the city. It was the beginning of the end in the unique struggle for railways in Linn county, and marks an epoch in the history of the city.

The road was extended west, and by 1862 the trains were running as far as Marshalltown. By 1867 the road was completed to the Missouri river.

Both the Iowa and Nebraska and the Cedar Rapids and Missouri River railways have for many years been under one management and are now known as the Chicago and Northwestern Railway, which owns and operates nearly 8,000 miles of road with a capital stock of $130,121,838.

[Ill.u.s.tration: BIRDSEYE VIEW Of CEDAR RAPIDS IN 1889]

In 1865 D. W. C. Rowley began grading for the Burlington, Cedar Rapids and Northern Railway, which was organized in Cedar Rapids. A separate company, known as the Cedar Valley Construction Company, was organized to build this line to Waterloo. This company was composed of such men as Dr. J. F. Ely, president, William Greene, superintendent, D. W. C.

Rowley, secretary. In December, 1866, another road was incorporated, running to Burlington south via Iowa City. The men connected with this enterprise were J. H. Gear, Burlington, president, J. E. Putnam, Burlington, secretary, directors Dr. S. D. Carpenter, of Cedar Rapids, E. Clark and Peter A. Dey, of Iowa City, and John Bird, Louisa county.

This southern branch did not progress rapidly and there was more or less of a hitch with the plans, and a question as to how the road should run. The articles were changed, leaving out Iowa City, and the board increased to fifteen members, among whom may be mentioned N. B.

Brown, George Greene, and Charles Weare, who were added from Linn county. George Greene was elected president and Charles Mason, vice president. By June, 1868, the two roads were united under one name, the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Northern, Greene becoming president, and D.

W. C. Rowley secretary. By January 1, 1871, trains were running between Cedar Rapids and Burlington, and early the following year they reached to St. Paul, thus making one of the first great north and south roads in Iowa. For many years C. J. Ives was president of the road till it was absorbed by the Rock Island system, when the headquarters were transferred to Chicago, the Cedar Rapids office becoming merely a division point.

The Dubuque and Southwestern Railway was operated from Dubuque to Cedar Rapids in October, 1865. This was an important factor in the upbuilding of Marion and other towns along this road and in fact helped Cedar Rapids. Like all small roads, it was not a financial success, and in May, 1878, it was sold to the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway Company and new life put into it. The Milwaukee road in 1883 extended this line to Kansas City. The main line of the Milwaukee was extended to Omaha.

The building of the interurban to Iowa City, a distance of twenty-eight miles, a few years ago concludes the railway building in Linn county, with the exception of the Anamosa and Northwestern, which runs along the northern part of the county; and the extension of the Illinois Central, which runs down from Manchester, connecting with the main line at that place.

We are pleased to give s.p.a.ce here to the following account of beginnings in Cedar Rapids. It is from Bailey & Hair's _Gazetteer_ for 1865:

"D. W. King and T. Gainor were the first settlers of any advantage to the county. They reached here in 1839, and soon after made a permanent settlement on the west side of the river.

"The first white man, however, who pitched his tent on the ground, now occupied by the Valley City, was a notorious counterfeiter and horse thief by the name of Shepherd, who took up his abode and erected his cabin on what is now Commercial street, near the mills, in the year 1838.

"Thus early was this location selected as a central point for commercial operations with the surrounding country, and although the character of the operators was worse than some who have followed them in business, it nevertheless indicates their wisdom in making a good location for their enterprise.

"In 1849 D. W. King established ferries for crossing the river, and continued to run them up to the time of his death, in 1854. They were located at Iowa avenue and Linn street crossings. They were self-propellers, being forced across the river by the power of the current. A wire rope or cable extended across the stream upon which a pulley was placed, and connected by ropes to the boat. The first dam across the Cedar river was commenced in 1842, and the first saw mill erected in 1843.

"In March, 1843, the lands came into market. The first flouring mill was erected by N. B. Brown, in 1844-5, at a cost of $3,000. Extensive additions have been made to this mill since. It is still owned and run by Mr. Brown. In 1845, A. Ely erected the second saw mill and the following year the second flouring mill at a cost of $9,000. In 1848-9, the first woolen factory was erected by N. B. Brown. Cost, $10,000. The first steam engine was set in operation in 1855, in the machine shop of A. Hager.

"The first store was owned by J. Greene in the building now standing on the northeast corner of Iowa avenue and Washington street. The second store was opened by Mr.

Cleveland, and the third by Mr. Mulford. The proprietor of these stores have all left the city. Mulford's store was destroyed by fire in 1850, being the first building thus destroyed in Cedar Rapids. The second fire occurred in 1855, when the buildings on the west side of Commercial street, between Iowa avenue and Linn street, were mostly consumed.

The postoffice was established in 1847, and J. Greene appointed postmaster.