Historic Highways of America Volume VII Part 4

Perhaps the earliest map showing a road throughout the Kennebec and Chaudiere valleys is "A New Map of Nova Scotia & Cape Britain" (1755) in the British Public Records Office.[39] The road bears the name "Kenebec Road."

Among the Haldimand Papers in the British Museum[40] is a most interesting "Journal from the last settlements on the Chaudiere to the first Inhabitants on Kennebec River kept by Hugh Finley, from the 13th of September that he left Quebec until the 30th that he arrived at Falmouth in Cas...o...b..y in the P[r]ovince of the Ma.s.sachusets Bay--1773."

Finley had been appointed "Surveyor of Post roads on the Continent of North America" and, in view of the tedious length and the common r.e.t.a.r.dments of the Lake Champlain route between Canada and New England, determined to explore the Chaudiere-Kennebec route. Four Indian guides accompanied the surveyor, who were "to mark (as they should pa.s.s along in their rough way) the Path by which a good road might be cut." The last farm on the Chaudiere was "52 Miles S. Easterly of Quebec." "The reaches in this river are long between rapid and rapid, but navigable for batteaus only." On the fifteenth the party had reached "Rapide du Diable;" seven miles further was "La Famine" River where were two huts.

Four miles further they arrived at "des loups" River. This was the common upward route of travel as the upper Chaudiere route was interrupted by ponds, swamps, etc. Concerning Indian maps Mr. Finley makes an interesting statement: "It is impossible to guess distances from an Indian draft, that people have no idea of proportion."

On the eighteenth the party encamped early in the afternoon "on purpose to pack up our Provisions &c in proper Packages to be distributed in proportional burthens to each of the party as we were next day to proceed thro the woods." Then came a desperate journey of nine miles in nine hours up steeps, over and under trees which tore the canoes and almost exhausted their bearers. At the end of two small lakes a half mile portage brought the travelers to another lake. "Half over this carrying place is the just hight of Land between Canada & New England,"

wrote Mr. Finley, "consequently the boundary line between the Province of Quebec and Ma.s.sachusets Bay will be a line drawn half way between the Lake we just left and this Lake."

According to Finley this portage was ninety-six miles from Quebec and forty-six from the last house on the Chaudiere--by the route he had traversed. He proceeded down the Kennebec, up the "Androcogkin" to Brunswick and across by land to Cas...o...b..y.

miles "It appears by this Journal, that the distance from Quebec to Launieres the last house on the River Chaudiere in a good road is 52

From Launier's house to carry a road in the best path through a country dry and level (as appears by the proper rout projected) down to Noridgiwalk, the first and nearest settlement in New England 150

From Noridgewalk to Oaks's or Wa.s.sarunset R 10

From Oaks's or Wa.s.sarunset to Cas...o...b..y 98 --- In all from Quebec to Falmouth [Portland] 310"

It is clear that the route from Quebec to the Kennebec was by way of "des loups" River to Moosehead Lake--named, writes Finley, "from a very remarkable Mountain [on] the S side about nine miles down. the Indians say that it resembles a moose deer stooping." It is equally clear that the route from the Kennebec to Quebec was by way of the western branch, the Dead River and the Chaudiere.

This route was made historic by Arnold's famous campaign of 1775 and has recently been described with intense feeling by Professor Justin H.

Smith.[41]

"Arnold's men found lower Dead River, as we can see from their journals, much as it now is. On both sides luxuriant gra.s.s covered the plain, or faded out in the reaches of poorer soil; tall evergreens, rather thinly planted, soughed and swayed above it; while here and there a glimpse could be had of goodly mountains, the confines of the valley." Professor Smith graphically describes the trials of those who traveled by water.

Those who attempted to travel the "Kenebec Road" suffered even worse: "The land parties fared no better. It was impossible to keep along the river. Detours and wide circuits multiplied all distances. Swollen rivulets had to be followed up until a narrow place was found and a tree could be felled across for a bridge. Once, if not more than once, a party marched for miles up a stream only to discover that it was not Dead River at all. At night many of the men were unable to find the boats and had to bivouac as they could, without supper and without breakfast." At last the brave band neared the portage to the north-flowing waters. Despite their distressing fatigues "there was only one thought:" writes Professor Smith, "advance; and the army set forward as rapidly as possible on the twenty-fifth and longest portage, four miles and a quarter over the Height of Land. For once their misfortunes wore the look of blessings: there was little freight. The provisions weighed only four or five pounds per man. A large part of the gunpowder proved to be damaged, and was thrown away.... The bateaux had broken up one by one, until some of the companies had scarcely any left.

Morgan had preserved seven, and was determined on taking them across, for there was no other way to transport his military stores down the Chaudiere; but resolution of such a temper was now beyond mere men. An attempt was made to trail the bateaux up a brook that enters Arnold Pond; but the attempt had to be given up, and each company, except Morgan's, took only a single boat over the portage.

"Even in this light order, the troops were hardly able to conquer the mountain. There was a trail, to be sure, and Steele's pioneers had bettered it; but a mountain trail, even when good, is not a highway, except in alt.i.tude. 'Rubbish' had been collecting here ever since creation, as it seemed to Morrison, and a handful of tired men could not remove it all in a few days' time. Ten acres of trees blown down across the path had to be left there. A wet place half a mile wide could not be rooted up. Rocks, dead logs, gorges, and precipices had to be stumbled over. The snow, hiding pitfalls and stones, betrayed many a foot into a wrench and a bruise. Those who carried the boats--and no doubt all carried in turn--suffered still more, for bateaux and carriers often fell together pell-mell down a slope into the snow. 'The Terrible Carrying-place'--that was the soldiers' name for it."

The portages between the Connecticut River and the Canadian waters were of great local importance during the Old French War and the Revolution; they were not as important to the country at large as those of the northeast. The two of special significance were routes to the St.

Francis River, Lake Memframagog and Otter Creek (flowing into Lake Champlain). Fort Number Four "had been built by Ma.s.sachusetts when it was supposed to be within its limits. It was projected by Colonel Stoddard, of Northampton, and was well situated, in connection with the other forts, on the western frontier, to command all the paths, by which the Indians travelled from Canada to New-England."[42] This fort was on the celebrated highway from the Connecticut across country to Fort Edward on the Hudson River, so largely traveled throughout the period of military operations. In 1755 during Sir William Johnston's campaign against Fort Crown Point, New Hampshire raised five hundred men, under the command of Colonel Joseph Blanchard. "The Governor," writes Belknap, "ordered them to Connecticut river, to build a fort at Cohos, supposing it to be in their way to Crown Point. They first marched to Baker's-town, where they began to build batteaux, and consumed time and provisions to no purpose. By Shirley's advice they quitted that futile employment, and made a fatiguing march through the woods, by the way of Number-four, to Albany."[43] The failure to capture Crown Point this year brought down a scourge of Indians upon New Hampshire, particularly from the St. Francis River, between which and the Connecticut there was "a safe and easy communication by short carrying-places."[44] But the white men found this route ere long and themselves carried destruction up the St. Francis Valley.[45]

When in 1759, General Amherst was preparing to complete Wolfe's victory by reducing the remainder of Canada, eight hundred New Hampshire men proceeded under Colonel John Goffe to Fort Number Four. "But instead of taking the old route, to Albany, they cut a road through the woods, directly toward Crown Point. In this work they made such dispatch, as to join that part of the army which Amherst had left at Crown Point, twelve days before their embarkation."[46] This road was built over the portage to Otter Creek. It "began at Wentworth's ferry, two miles above the fort at No. 4, and was cut 26 miles; at the end of which, they found a path, made the year before; in which they pa.s.sed over the mountain to Otter Creek; where they found a good road, which led to Crown Point. Their stores were brought in waggons, as far as the 26 miles extended; and then transported on horses over the mountains. A drove of cattle for the supply of the army went from No. 4, by this route to Crown Point."[47]

This carrying place is conspicuously marked on a Board of Trade Map of 1755 in the British Public Records Office and described "_From_ Crown Point _to_ Stephens Fort _about_ 60 _Miles_ N. 25 W _nearly_."[48] Fort Stephens is placed on the "Konektikut or Long R." near the mouth of Black River. "A Survey of Lake Champlain" by William Bra.s.sier dated 1762 shows the line of this road southeast of Crown Point pa.s.sing up Otter Creek. The legend reads "The Road was opened by the New Hampshire Regiments during the last War."[49]

CHAPTER III

NEW YORK PORTAGES

The strategic value of the "Great Pa.s.s" from New York by way of the Hudson, Lakes George and Champlain, and the Richelieu River has already been emphasized. The important military points on the route were the portages from the Hudson to Lake George, from Lake George to Lake Champlain, the narrows at Crown Point, and the portage from Chambly to La Prairie on the St. Lawrence. These portages are marked on numerous early maps; the Hudson-Lake George portage is quite accurately drawn on Colonel Romer's Map of 1700.[50] From that year on throughout the century the greater accuracy with which it is mapped ill.u.s.trates its growing importance.

One of the most interesting early descriptions of this famous pa.s.s is given on a "Map of part of New York, comprehending the country between New York and Quebec, the river Connecticut, &c., to shew 'the way from Albany to Canada ... part by land and part by water;' drawn about 1720."[51] The route is thus described:

Miles "The Way from albany to Canada described we goe part by land & part by water

1. To Sprouts or first landing by water :10

2. To fort Ingoldsby by land when [?] rivers low 14

3. To a falles by water first carrying place of 1/2 mile over 17

4. To falles by water 2^d. carrying place of 1/2^m :4

5. to fort niccolson by water 12

this is the 3^d. carrying place now we leave Hudson's river

6. goe to the Camp att wood creeke 16:

From [?] Camp down the Streame.

1 To a falle carying place is 1/4 m over by water 30

2 To Crown point begining of corlaers lake 33

3 To end of a lake begining Chamly river 40 (?)

4 To a rift in [?] River 24

5 to Rocke, a carying place of two Miles over 9

6 to chamly either by land or water 2

from chamly to Montreall by land is 18 miles by water 108 Miles

from Mont royall down the great river of Canada

1 to Sorell at the Mouth of Chamly river 54:

2 to trois river it comes allmost from hudsons bay 36:

3 to Quebec the chief place in Canada 90:"

Another itinerary is given in a "Sketch of the Indian Country on the north of New York" presented "to the board by Maj^r. gov^r.

Winthrop:[52]

"The Several Distances from Albany to Cubeck Leagues

From Albany to Saragtoqua 12 From Saragtoqua to ye carrying place 6 The Carrying place over 4 From ye Carrying [place to the] Falls 11 From the Falls to [chambly] 12 From Chambly to Sorel 18 From Sorel to S^t. Fransoy 4 from st Fransoy to Troy [Trois] River 9 From Troy River to Champlain 5 From Champlain to Batishan 2 From Batishan to Lovenjere 10 From Lovenjere to Cubeck 12 Colaers Lake long 30 From y^e End of y^e Lake to Chambly 12"

Perhaps the most detailed description of the Pa.s.s is given by a former prisoner among the French who has written the following observations on a copy of a "French Draught of Lake Champlain & Lake George."[53] The text shows that the date of the observations is about 1756:

"From Fort Edward to Fort William Henry, on Lake George fifteen Miles good Road. This Lake is thirty Six Miles Long, and in the Widest part not quite three, all very good Navigation But for two miles at the farther End Becomes a Narrow Winding Creek, Very Mountainous on Each Side particularly the East, the Landing place is within three Miles of Ticonderoga, where the Lake Begins to Discharge itself into Champlain over Several Little Falls which Interupt the Navigation for a mile & half, where every thing is Carried over Land for that Distance, on the Eastern Side, to a Saw Mill the French have there, from the Mill to Ticonderoga is a mile & ahalf more, water carriage only dry a very narrow Creek Overlook'd by Steep Mountains on each Side, this is the only Communication their is from Lake George to Ticonderogo for Artillery, and heavy Baggage and is altogither one of the most Difficult and most Dangerous Pa.s.ses in North America.