Harper's Round Table, September 10, 1895 Part 12

PHILATUS.

ADVERTIs.e.m.e.nTS.

Highest of all in Leavening Strength.--Latest U. S. Gov't Report.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Royal Baking Powder]

[Ill.u.s.tration: If afflicted with SORE EYES USE Dr. ISAAC THOMPSON'S EYE WATER]

HARPERS NEW CATALOGUE.

Thoroughly revised, cla.s.sified, and indexed, will be sent by mail to any address on receipt of ten cents.

[Ill.u.s.tration: BICYCLING]

This Department is conducted in the interest of Bicyclers, and the Editor will be pleased to answer any question on the subject. Our maps and tours contain much valuable data kindly supplied from the official maps and road-books of the League of American Wheelmen.

Recognizing the value of the work being done by the L. A. W., the Editor will be pleased to furnish subscribers with membership blanks and information so far as possible.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Copyright, 1895, by Harper & Brothers.]

Continuing the two-days trip out of Philadelphia into New Jersey to Vineland, we start from Salem, where we stopped last week, and where the bicyclist stops for the night. From Salem the best route is the shortest. Moving southward out of the village from the Nelson House, you keep generally to the left, and run out over a straight road, over a gravel road in very good condition, to Quinton. Thence crossing the track, keep always on the main road, turning neither to the left nor right, though the direction is generally to the right immediately after crossing the track. From Quinton it is smooth sailing along a straight road past Bordens Hill into Shiloh. As shown on the map, you come into a road running into Shiloh from the north just by the town, and should turn right into this, being careful to keep to the left again at the meeting of several roads in the village. From this point the road is again direct to Bridgeton. The distance from Salem to Bridgeton is seventeen miles, and the road is all the way as good as a gravel road can well be. It is kept in good condition also, and if you do not have a strong wind against you, you are pretty sure to have a capital run.

If desired, a stop can be made at the c.u.mberland House in Bridgeton for lunch and a short rest, though the whole run to Vineland is not a long one to take at one stretch. On leaving Bridgeton, take the turnpike direct to Millville, a distance of eleven miles. It is a good road-bed, but not a particularly interesting road so far as scenery goes. Still, it is the shortest and best road to Millville, though hardly the shortest way to go to Vineland. The admirable condition of the road is enough to persuade many to go that way. From Millville to Vineland is a distance of six miles, also along a capital road, side paths being, of course, taken where possible.

The shorter route runs out of Bridgeton on the road to Finley, but the rider should turn off to the right shortly after crossing the railway about three miles out from Bridgeton, and keeping on into Pleasant Grove. Thence he continues to Rosenhayn and Bradway. Keeping to the left of Bradway, the best road-bed is found by keeping on towards the northeast, as shown on the map, until a fork--a meeting of roads--is reached just out of Mill Road. Here a very sharp turn is made to the right, and in less than a mile you come to the main road into Mill Road, whence the direction is straight into Vineland. The Baker House is a good stopping-place at Vineland, and the second night can be comfortably spent there. On the following day a run can be made into Philadelphia direct, or the wheelman can take a train back if he does not want to risk the chance of poorer roads. This whole run, as has been said, can be made in one day, since it is only sixty-two miles by the shortest and sixty-six miles by the Millville routes from Philadelphia. It is a pretty run through picturesque country, and makes one of the best trips out of Philadelphia. There are many other attractive trips out of Philadelphia, but it will be necessary for us now to move on towards Boston, and give some runs in and around that city. We shall begin next week, therefore, by starting from Stamford, Connecticut, and moving on towards Boston in easy stages.

NOTE.--Map of New York city asphalted streets in No. 809. Map of route from New York to Tarrytown in No. 810. New York to Stamford, Connecticut, in No. 811. New York to Staten Island in No. 812. New Jersey from Hoboken to Pine Brook in No. 813. Brooklyn in No. 814.

Brooklyn to Babylon in No. 816. Brooklyn to Northport in No. 816.

Tarrytown to Poughkeepsie in No. 817. Poughkeepsie to Hudson in No. 818. Hudson to Albany in No. 819. Tottenville to Trenton in 820. Trenton to Philadelphia in 821. Philadelphia in No. 822.

Philadelphia-Wissahickon Route in No. 823. Philadelphia to West Chester in No. 824. Philadelphia to Atlantic City--First Stage in No. 825; Second Stage in No. 826. Philadelphia to Salem in No.

827.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE CAMERA CLUB]

Any questions in regard to photograph matters will be willingly answered by the Editor of this column, and we should be glad to hear from any of our club who can make helpful suggestions.

SOME SUMMER USES FOR BLUE PAPER.

Blue paper is so easily made, and the materials are so cheap, that one can use a great deal of it and still not go to much expense.

Nothing is better for a photographic outing than the blue paper. The materials can be carried dry and made up as needed, all that is necessary being to mix them with clear water. Any good unglazed paper can be used for the solution, though, of course, the photographic papers are the best.

Blue prints do not curl or exhibit any of the disagreeable traits of other sensitive papers, and therefore are specially fine to ill.u.s.trate letters or journals, and being so cheap can be used profusely.

Letter-paper may be sensitized, and a picture printed at the top, making a very attractive and original letter-head. Use unglazed writing-paper, and sensitize a strip at the top a little larger than the picture to be printed on it. As all the sensitizing solution not exposed to the light washes off when placed in water, cover all parts of the paper to which it has been applied while printing. After printing put the whole sheet in the water and wash till clear. After it is washed, blot off the superfluous moisture, and place the prints between clean sheets of white paper, and put them under a press till dry. A letter-press is the best, though it must not be screwed down too tight. Several heavy books, a box half full of stones, or a smooth board with several stones laid on top make good presses.

Impressions of wood treasures may be taken on blue-print paper. The printing-frame must have a clear gla.s.s which just fits it. On this clear gla.s.s lay whatever flower, leaf, spray of which you desire to make the outline. Put a sheet of blue paper over it, and expose to the sun till the paper is slightly bronzed. Wash in several changes of water and dry.

When dry take a fine brush and a cake of French blue water-color and trace the veins of the leaf or flower in the outline. Moths and b.u.t.terflies can be photographed in this way. Lace patterns can be printed on blue paper. Designs for fancy or needle work can be made with leaves and flowers on blue paper, and are much prettier than those bought in shops, besides being true to Nature. If one has not the gift or accomplishment of drawing, this is an excellent way to make patterns, and they are sure to be correct.

Two formulas have been given in these columns for blue prints. We add one more:

No. 1.

Citrate of iron and ammonia 1-7/8 oz.

Water 8 "

No. 2.

Red prussiate of potash 1-7/8 oz.

Water 8 "

The iron mixture may be made up, and will keep for a long time. The potash mixture will not keep over five or six days. Place the paper on a flat board and dampen it with a sponge. Turn equal parts of each mixture into a saucer, mix thoroughly, and apply to the paper with a flat brush.

A letter-copying brush is the best kind of brush, as it is broad and soft. Put on just enough to cover the paper evenly without streaking it.

As soon as the solution has set, hang the paper up to dry. It should dry quickly, for if it is a long time in drying it will be streaked.

SIR KNIGHT MACM. TOWNER writes that a short time ago he made some blue-print paper from directions given in the Camera Club, and when finished the paper was yellow, with blue spots in it, and asks what is the reason. The trouble is in preparing the solution.

Mix the two solutions thoroughly before using, and apply lightly and evenly. Sir Kenneth says he prepared the paper by lamp-light, though the directions did not tell whether to do so or not.

Referring to the copy--No. 797--which contains the directions for blue prints, we find it reads, "The paper must be sensitized by gas or lamp light, and dried in a dark room." "To sensitize,"

means to apply the solution to the paper. If Sir Kenneth has any more trouble in preparing his paper, he is requested to send a sample to the Camera Club. The plain salted paper which Sir Kenneth asks where to buy can be obtained of any dealer in photographic goods, or if he does not have it in stock, he will order it. It should be freshly salted.

Natural History Morsel.

Have you ever noticed the caterpillar as it spins its tiny web from the branches of trees, descending as the web is completed to the ground and returning by its newly made ladder? If you have never noticed it, you would be well paid to watch caterpillars in their work. I have spent a great deal of time watching them, and find them an interesting study. I would like to have a few foreign correspondents, and have stamps to trade.