Handwork in Wood Part 17

In the case of a door, see that it fits its frame, evenly all the way around, but with a little play. To insure a tighter fit at the swinging edge this edge should be slightly beveled inwards.

In attaching a b.u.t.t-hinge, the essential thing is to sink the hinge into the wood, exactly the thickness of the knuckle. The gains may be cut in one or both of the pieces to be hinged together.

With these matters determined proceed as follows: In the case of a box cover, the hinges should be set about as far from the ends of the box as the hinge is long.

In the case of an upright door, locate the hinges respectively above and below the lower and upper rails of the door. Mark with the knife on the edge of the door the length of the hinge, and square across approximately the width of the gain to receive it. Do this for both hinges. Between these lines gage the proper width of the gains. Set another gage to one half the thickness of the knuckle and gage on the door face the depth of the gains. Chisel out the gains, set the hinges in place, bore the holes, and drive the screws. Place the door in position again to test the fit. If all is well, mark the position of the hinges on the frame, gage and cut the gains, and fasten in the hinges. Where the hinge is gained its full thickness into the door, no gain, of course, is cut in the frame. If the hinges are set too shallow, it is an easy matter to unscrew one leaf of each and cut a little deeper. If they are set too deep the screws may be loosened and a piece of paper or a shaving inserted underneath along the outer arris of the gain.

LOCKS

The chief parts of a lock are: the _bolt_, its essential feature, the _selvage_, the plate which appears at the edge of the door or drawer, the _box_, which contains the mechanism including the _tumbler_, _ward_, _spring_, etc., the key-pin, into or around which the key is inserted, the _strike_, the plate attached opposite the selvage, (often left out as in drawer-locks, but essential in hook-bolt locks, and self-locking locks,) and the _escutcheon_, the plate around the keyhole.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 235. Three Positions of Hinges.]

Locks may be cla.s.sified: (1) According to their _uses_, of which there are two types. (a), Fig. 236, For drawers, cupboards, tills, wardrobes, and doors. In these the bolt simply projects at right angles to the selvage into the strike, and resists pressure sidewise of the lock. (b), Fig. 237, For desks, roll-top desks, chests, boxes and sliding doors. In these, the bolt includes a hook device of some kind to resist pressure perpendicular to the selvage. In some locks, the hook or hooks project sidewise from the bolt, in others the bolt engages in hooks or eyes attached to the strike.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 236. Rim-lock, for Drawer. 1. Bolt. 2. Selvage. 3.

Box. 4. Key-pin.]

(2) According to the _method of application_, as rim locks, which are fastened on the surface, and mortise locks which are mortised into the edge of a door or drawer or box.

INSERTING LOCKS

To insert a _rim-lock_, measure the distance from the selvage to the key-pin, locate this as the center of the keyhole, and bore the hole.

If the lock has a selvage, gain out the edge of the door or drawer to receive it. If the lock box has to be gained in, do that next, taking care that the bolt has room to slide. Cut the keyhole to the proper shape with a keyhole-saw or small chisel. Fasten the lock in place, and if there is a strike or face-plate, mark its place and mortise it in.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 237. Mortise-lock, for Box.]

To insert a _mortise-lock_, locate and bore the keyhole, mortise in the box and the selvage, finish the keyhole, fasten in the lock, add the escutcheon, locate and mortise in the strike, and screw it in place.

WOOD FASTENINGS

REFERENCES:[*]

Hammacher & Schlemmer.

Catalog No. 151.

Nails.

Goss, p. 153.

Purfield, _Wood Craft_, 5: 181.

Park, pp. 129-135.

Griffith, pp. 75-78.

_Wood Craft_, 5: 103.

Wheeler, pp. 428-433.

Tacks.

Wheeler, pp. 429-433.

Sickels, p. 70.

Goss, p. 155.

Barter, pp. 84-86.

Screws.

Goss, p. 155.

Wheeler, p. 476.

Barter, p. 86.

Griffith, pp. 78-80.

Park, pp. 136-140.

Dowels.

Goss, p. 153.

Wheeler, p. 374.

Sickels, p. 104.

Griffith, p. 92.

Wedges.

Goss, p. 151.

Glue.

Goss, p. 156.

Rivington, III, p. 432.

Barter, p. 82.

Standage, _Wood Craft_, 7: 48.

Park, pp. 141-146.

Sickels, p. 106.

Wheeler, pp. 391-396.

Alexander, _Wood Craft_, 5: 168.

Griffith, pp. 80-83.

Hinges.

Sickels, p. 118.

Wheeler, p. 402.

[Footnote *: For general bibliography see p. 4.]

CHAPTER VI.

EQUIPMENT AND CARE OF THE SHOP.

_Tool equipment._ The choice of tools in any particular shop best comes out of long experience. Some teachers prefer to emphasize certain processes or methods, others lay stress on different ones.

The following tentative list is suggested for a full equipment for twenty-four students. One bench and its tools may be added for the teacher.

The prices given are quoted from Discount Sheet No. 1 for Catalogue of Tools, No. 355 issued by Hammacher, Schlemmer & Co., Fourth Avenue and 13th Street, New York City, dated 1908, and are correct at the present date (1910). Aggregate orders, however, are always subject to special concessions, and it is suggested that before ordering the purchaser submit a list of specifications for which special figures will be quoted.