Hand Craft Part 5

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 19._

_Yard Measure._]

NO. 20. SCOOP.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 19, 12, 9, 14, 7, 15, 26, 32, 33, 29, 28, 13, 18, 6, 16, 2, and 24.)

Cut from Beech a carefully-selected piece 11 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 3 in. thick. Plane one side and one edge at right angles, with exceptional care. Then, on the smooth edge sketch the outline of the upper side _a_ to _a_ of Fig. 1 of drawings No. 20. Saw to the outline at right angles throughout, afterwards correcting inaccuracies with chisel and plane. On the smooth shaped side thus produced, sketch the outline of Fig. 2. With 1-1/2-in. centre bit drill the holes indicated by _b b_, right through.

Saw to the outline all round, carefully maintaining right angles throughout and, as before, correcting inaccuracies with chisel and plane.

Then, at the upper edge of the invisible end at the bottom of Fig. 2, find the centre represented by _c_ in Fig. 3. Fix compa.s.ses to a radius from _c_ to _d_, and, from the centre before found, describe a semicircle, and from the same centre another semicircle with a radius about 1/8 in. longer. The centre of the inner of those semicircles represents the bottom of the inside of the Scoop at _f_ of Fig. 1, and the outer one represents the bottom of the outside at the same point.

Next, with 1/8-in. gouge, make a furrow just inside the outline of the face of the scoop, as previously recommended for Model No. 17. Then, from that furrow as a starting-point, in all directions, with 7/8-gouge, scoop out from back to front, to the depth indicated by the dotted line of Fig. 1, and to the width at front of the semicircle previously drawn on the end, but gradually diminishing the inner capacity so as to make it smallest near the handle, in about the same proportion as indicated for the bottom by the dotted line in Fig. 1. Then file and sc.r.a.pe inside where required, and finish so far with sand-paper.

Then, upon each edge, draw the outline of the bottom of the Scoop, shown in Fig. 1. Saw throughout that outline at right angles. Then from _e_ to _f_ plane all round to the semicircle indicated by the outer line of Fig. 3 previously described on the end. Then, with the knife, cut the handle to the section indicated by Fig. 4, and continue the shaping to _e_ as indicated by the shaded lines of Fig. 1. File the handle and outside of Scoop where required, and finish with sand-paper.

[***] The most difficult part of this model is that shaded in Fig. 1, which requires special attention and care.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 20._

_Scoop._]

NO. 21. HANGING PEGS OR RACK.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 26, 13, 18, 4, 26, 37, 29, 35, 39, 40, and 42.)

From Deal cut out two pieces, one 18 in. long, 3-1/2 in. wide, and 7/8 in. thick; the other 15 in. long, 1 in. wide, and 7/8 in. thick.

Commencing with the larger piece, plane one side and one edge at right angles. Then gauge-mark to a width of 3 in., and plane the rough edge down to that mark. At the centre of the width draw a line from end, as shown in Fig. 1, _f_ to _f_. On that line, with compa.s.ses, mark the points indicated by _a_, _b_, _c_, of Fig. 1 of the drawings No. 21. At each point drill a 5/8 in. hole right through, taking great care to drill vertically. With the square, draw the cross lines at _d d_, the intersections with the central line forming additional central points.

Set compa.s.ses to a radius of 7/8 in., and, from each of those central points, describe a semicircle as shown in the Fig.; then from each of the same central points describe an outer semicircle as also shown in the Fig. With tenon saw make a nick at each of the four points _g_, in each case reaching to the outer of the semicircles, each nick being strictly at right angles. Then, with turning saw, follow the line of each of the outer semicircles. Then dress the edges all round with chisel and file as required. Then gauge-mark all round for a thickness of 3/4 in., and plane the rough side down to the mark, evenly throughout. Gauge-mark all round for the chamfer, in the proportion shown in Fig. 1, and chamfer to the mark accordingly, using the plane for the sides and the knife for the curves and corners. File throughout where necessary, and finish with sand-paper.

The smaller piece of Deal being to make the pegs with, plane it on one side and one edge at right angles, then gauge-mark for a width of 3/4 in. and for a thickness of 5/8 in., as ill.u.s.trated in section by Fig. 4.

Saw across into three lengths of 5 in. each. Place them together on their sides, and sketch one side of each as shown from _j_ to _k_ and _l_ in Fig. 3, leaving the s.p.a.ce from _j_ to _m_ untouched. With the try square repeat the lines of this sketch on both sides of each. With saw and knife cut each peg to the sketch, finishing the whole, excepting the circular plug. Then at the inner end, find the centre as denoted in Fig.

4, and, using the same centre-bit as for Fig. 1, describe a circle mark as dotted in Fig. 4. Then, with the tenon saw, cut by the "shoulder" to a depth of 1/8 in., and pare the circle with the knife to the shoulder _j_, so making a round plug, a little too large to go into the holes of Fig. 1. Then, with the file, carefully reduce the size of each plug so as to very accurately and tightly fit one hole at a time in Fig 1, where wedging must not be tolerated. The perfection of this part of the work is to be tested by ascertaining that the pegs are precisely in a line, and that each one fits all round to the face of the board into which it is inserted.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 21._

_Clothes Rack._]

Having thus fitted each plug to its own hole, and marked it for identification, the pegs may be completed. Cut down each one, with the tenon saw, from _k_ to _x_, and, with the chisel, pare down from _j_ to _k_, first making it square and afterwards slightly rounding it, as shown in section of Fig. 4. With a sharp chisel cut round to the outside of the semicircle for the top of the peg. File this round and then cut the chamfer with the knife. File as required, and finish with sand-paper.

The pegs being thus made ready for fixing, clean the face of the board (Fig. 1) with the smooth plane, and the edges and chamfers with sand-paper. Then glue in each plug, using the try square to make sure that they project at right angles. Then put the whole away for not less than six hours, to allow the glue to set well. Then, as each plug has been purposely made slightly too long, saw off each projection at the back, and smooth the whole of the back with the plane, so effecting the finishing touches.

To avoid the necessity for nailing to the wall, get two pieces of hoop-iron about 1-1/2 in. long and 1/2 in. wide. To adapt each piece for its purpose, cut one end round and punch in a nail hole and two smaller screw holes, as shown in Fig. 1. With a chisel cut a neat recess for each iron so that it can be sunk flush with the back, as shown in Fig.

2, and, inserting the screws, the work will be complete.

NO. 22. FLOWER-POT STAND.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 34, 20, 2, 1, 13, 41, 42, and 35.)

This is an especially good subject for straight sawing, straight planing, and nailing.

Cut from Deal a piece about 22 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.

With the jack-plane face one side and one edge perfectly straight and true at right angles. Gauge-mark for 13/16 in. thick, and plane the rough side down to the gauge-line. Square one end with the plane, mark to length shown in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 22, cut with tenon saw to mark, and square the end with smooth plane. Then gauge-mark for thickness of lath shown in Fig. 4, and saw off a shade inside the gauge-lines. In like manner cut five laths, and plane each to the gauge line.

The laths being thus made, sufficient wood will be left for the supports. Make the width of the supports the same as that of the laths.

After gauging and planing the supports to depth as Fig. 4, saw off to the 6-in. length. Square the ends with a chisel and set out on each the distance _a a_, Fig. 3. Gauge to _b b_, Fig. 4, and with the tenon saw, cut to the gauge-line at _a a_, and with the knife remove the piece between _a_ and _a_. Then mark on each lath the distance the supports are from each end of the laths, and nail on the laths--the outside laths first, then the centre one, and finally the other two.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 22._

_Flower Pot Stand._]

NO. 23. FOOT-STOOL.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 3, 4, 15, 44, 32, 29, 14, 13, 3, 5, 41, and 42.)

Cut from Deal two pieces, one 12 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 1-1/4 in.

thick; the other 18 in. long, 3-1/4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.

The former piece is for the laths, and it must be prepared and cut as in No. 22, making each lath to finish 1 in. wide, 1/2 in. thick, and 10-3/4 in. long.

The wood for the support must now be proceeded with. Plane one side and one edge at right angles, and gauge-mark for width of 3 in. and thickness of 1-7/8 in. Plane the rough side and edge down to the gauge-marks. Then saw through the centre so as to make two pieces of 7/8 in. thickness each. Place the pieces side by side, and nail them together with two 1-1/2-in. wrought nails, so that both pieces can be operated upon together. Then draw on one outer side the diagram shown on the unshaded part of Fig. 1 of drawings No. 23, and, with the aid of try-square and compa.s.ses, repeat the diagram on the other outer side.

Then cut off each end nearly to the end lines of the diagrams, and, with the smoothing plane, finish at perfect right angles. Then, with a 5/8-in. centre-bit, drill at the spots marked _a a_ on each diagram, penetrating on one side a little more than an inch, and finishing by drilling from the other side in precise unison. The drilling throughout must be exactly vertical. Then proceed with the arch shown in Fig. 1, with the turning saw cutting out the three semicircles, which finish with gouge and file, taking care to maintain right angles at every point. Then separate the pieces, smooth each face with the smoothing plane, and the circular parts with file and sand-paper.

The respective parts being now complete, mark on each lath the distance the supports are from the ends shown in Fig. 2. Then nail on the laths, _b b_ first, _c_ next, and the others afterwards. Then, having first taken care to punch down all the nails sufficiently, plane a few shavings off the tops of the laths to make them clean and level.

[***] If the laths are well and truly nailed on, their ends should be in perfect line. Any defect in that respect must be remedied by carefully and judiciously planing; but the perfection of work is when no such planing is necessary.

NO. 24. BOOK-CARRIER.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 12, 8, 9, 10, 3, 4, 15, 44, 32, 29, 14, 13, 3, 5, 41, and 42.)

This is made partly in hard and partly in soft wood.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 23._

_Foot Stool._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 24._

_Book Carrier_]

For the handle, cut from Beech a piece 8 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 7/8 in. thick. Plane one side and one edge. Then gauge-mark for 1-1/2 in.