Hand Craft Part 3

_Pencil Holder_]

NO. 6. PENCIL HOLDER.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 1, 11, 6, and 2.)

This model for the first time introduces the Brace and Bit. Saw off from Pine a piece 10 in. long, and 3/4 in. square. With the knife, cut one end across at right angles, and make it smooth. Find the centre of the end as for model No. 1. Fix the stem vertically in the Bench Screw, with the smooth end upwards. Fit a 3/16-Sh.e.l.l-Bit into the Brace, and bore a centre hole in the end of the stem as shown in Fig. 2 of drawings No. 6, and to the depth dotted in Fig. 1. Great care must be taken in drilling, so that the hole may be clean and perpendicular. With the knife, pare down each side so as to leave a 1/2-in. square, with the drilled hole in the centre. Find the centre in the opposite end. Mark a line about 2-1/4 in. from the drilled end, as shown in Fig. 1. From that line, shave each side down to the centre last found. Then take off the corners so as to make a tapered octagon. Then take off the corners of the octagon, so as to produce a round tapered rod. Measure from the thick end and mark the exact length, and, at the mark, cut across. Then round the end as shown in Fig. 1, and finish with sand-paper.

NOTE.--This is a repet.i.tion to a considerable extent of Model 1 on a larger scale. The student may be tempted to proceed without going through the processes described, but the temptation should be rigorously resisted, as a satisfactory result cannot be obtained except by adhering to all the details prescribed.

NO. 7. KEY LABEL.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 12, 8, 9, 10, 11, 6, 2, and 13.)

This is mainly intended for an exercise in planing, and it is better to get out a piece of Pine sufficient for two models--that is, about 9 in.

long, 1-3/4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.

Plane one side, and then one edge, perfectly straight and square to each other. Then set the gauge to 1-1/2 in. to fit Fig. 1 of drawings No. 7.

Apply the gauge to the straightened edge and mark off the width along the smooth side. Then plane that edge down to the line so made, using the try-square to keep the edge at right angles with the straightened side. Next find the centre 3/4 in. from the top end, as shown in Fig. 1.

From that centre describe with the compa.s.ses a semicircle. Then fit a 3/16-Sh.e.l.l-bit into the Brace, and bore a hole, at the centre of the semicircle, right through. Then set the gauge to 5/16 in. for the thickness, as shown by Fig. 2. Apply the gauge to the straightened side, and mark the line for thickness along each edge. Then plane the rough side down to those lines. Then, with the knife, cut round precisely to the semicircle, using the try-square frequently.

[If a double length is commenced with, as before recommended, the centering, marking, drilling, and rounding must be done at both ends.]

Measure from the rounded end, and rule with the square, the length of 4-1/4 in. Then, with Tenon or Dovetail Saw, cut off just outside the line. Then, with the knife, pare down to the line, and with a file, smooth that end as well as the rounded end, finishing throughout with sand-paper.

NO. 8. THREAD-WINDER.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 1, 6, 16, and 13.)

Beech is required, about 7 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 1/2 in. thick.

Plane one side and one edge. Draw the centre line _A_ to _B_ in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 8. With square and compa.s.ses draw all the other lines shown in the same Fig. Then fit a 3/4 in. Centre-bit to the Brace, and bore two holes, one at _A_ and the other at _B_. Then, with the smaller turning saw, cut the two outside curved edges as shown in Fig. 1. With the knife, trim to the lines, making the edges square, as shown in Fig.

3. Then shave and slightly round each semicircle, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, smoothing the edges with the file. Then set the Marking Gauge to 1/4 in., and, with the smooth side for a base, mark gauge lines on each edge for thickness, and plane the rough side down to those lines. Then set the plane very fine and take a shaving off the face side so as to remove the pencil and compa.s.s marks. Then finish with sand-paper.

NO. 9. DIBBLE FOR GARDEN.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 17, 18, 6, 2, and 13.)

Saw out from Fir a piece 14 in. long and 1-1/4 in. square. Plane one side straight and another side at right angles. Set the Marking Gauge to 1 in., and with the planed side as base, mark lines for thickness along each planed side. Then plane the rough sides down to those lines, using the Try Square frequently. Then, at each end find the centre thus [Figure] with additional lines showing octagons thus [Figure]. With the Marking Gauge draw lines from end to end of each side corresponding with the corners of each octagon. Plane the corners of the square down to those octagon lines, thus producing an octagonal rod, and completing the first exercise in bevel planing. Plane off the corners of the octagon throughout, thus producing a rod approximately round, shown in Fig. 2 of drawings No. 9, and so completing the first exercise in shaping with plane. Measure from one end for the point as shown in Fig. 1, and, with the knife, cut the point as roundly and symmetrically as possible, referring to the centre marked at the end as a guide for the precise place of the point. Then measure from the point and mark at 12 in. Cut across at that mark, and round the blunt end thus made, as shown at top of Fig. 1. With the file, dress the end and stray angles throughout, and finish with sand-paper.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 7._

_Key Label_]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 8._

_Pack Thread Winder_]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 9._

_Garden Dibble_]

NO. 10. PEN REST.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 8, 9, 10, 20, 1, 2, 18, and 13.)

Cut from Beech a piece 5 in. long, 1 in. wide, and 3/4 in. thick. Plane one side and one edge at right angles, then gauge and plane to thickness and height, as shown in Fig. 2 of drawings No. 10, but flat on all sides. Saw across both ends at right angles, so as to reduce the length to 3-1/2 in. Select one edge as the top, and, with the square, rule a central line from _e_ to _e_, and a line across at each of the places marked _a_, _b_, _c_, and _d_ in Fig. 1, continuing each line down both sides. Then, at each end, mark the central place represented by the dot in Fig. 2. From each of those central places describe the semicircle shown at top of Fig. 2. Then mark a line from end to end on each side half way between the top and the bottom.

Then, with the knife, and working to the semicircle at each end, take off the corners of the top, so making half an octagon, and, by taking off the corners of the half octagon, produce a top corresponding to the semicircle at each end, as shown in Fig. 2, taking care that the top of the semicircle throughout centres to the line previously drawn from _e_ to _e_. Then, with the tenon saw, at each of the places marked _a_, _b_, _c_, and _d_, saw across a right angle slit 3/16 in. deep. Then, with the knife or a chisel, cut out the s.p.a.ce shown in Fig. 1 from _a_ to _b_ and from _c_ to _d_, taking care that the side of each s.p.a.ce is true and square. Then, with the file, round each base as shown at the top of the shaded section in Fig. 2. Then smooth with the file where required, and finish with sand-paper.

NO. 11. FLOWER-POT STAND.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 2, 1, 6, 13, and 21.)

This consists of two pieces, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of drawings No.

11, each piece so made as to cross and fit the other at the centre, hence called a Flower-Pot Cross, the whole being a test of exactness and good work, surpa.s.sing any preceding model.

Cut from Pine a piece 12 in. long, 1-1/4 in. wide, and 1/2 in. thick.

Plane one side and one edge at right angles; then gauge for height and thickness, and plane the other side and edge as shown by the section represented in Fig. 3. Saw across the middle so as to make two pieces, and, from the end of each so cut, measure off and saw both to the equal length of 5-1/4 in. each, taking care that both ends of each are accurate right angles. Then place them on their sides and draw the centre line indicated by _A B_, continuing the line all round each piece. From the centre, mark off the places indicated by _e f_ and _g h_. At _c_ and _d_ of each, with the compa.s.ses, describe the quarter circle shown at each top corner of the figures, striking the segments from the respective dots shown for the purpose near each top corner.

Then, with the bottom edge for a base, draw a gauge line on each side of both pieces to the depth represented by _i j_, and with the tenon saw, make a slit at _e_ and _f_ to the depth of such gauge line. Then, with the knife or chisel, cut out the openings between _e_ and _f_ to the depth of the gauge line, taking care to finish the opening perfectly level and true. Then, at the bottom of one piece and the top of the other, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, gauge, saw, and cut out the s.p.a.ces from _g_ to _h_ in the same manner as for the s.p.a.ces before mentioned.

The openings from _g_ to _h_, if well done, will fit accurately in all directions, and, when put together, will form a firm cross. Then, with the knife, round the corners of each piece, at _c_ and _d_. Then smooth with file where required, and finish with sand-paper.

NO. 13. KNIFE REST.[3]

[3] No. 12 (Paper Knife) appears, for convenience of ill.u.s.tration, on page 41, but it should be proceeded with before No. 13.

(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 18, 26, 1, 2, 27, 13, and 24.)

Cut from Beech a piece about 5 in. long, 1 in. wide, and 7/8 in. thick.

Plane one side and one edge at right angles. Then saw across one end at right angles, and, measuring from that end, mark off the length at 4-1/4 in., and saw off that end at the mark, taking care to maintain right angles. Then gauge and plane the rough side and rough edge to a width of 7/8 in. and a thickness of 5/8 in. Then choose one edge for the top, and, along the centre of that edge, draw a line from _c_ to _c_, as shown in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 13, and continue the line to the extremities of both ends. Then, in manner described for No. 10, gauge, slit, and cut out with chisel the s.p.a.ces shown in the same Fig. 1 of drawings No. 13, from _a_ to _a_ and _b_ to _b_. Then, with compa.s.ses, as indicated in the same Fig., describe on both sides of each top corner, the segment of a circle represented in each case from _c_ to _d_. Then, for the first time, resort to Concave Chiselling, and with a broad chisel cut away the corners down to the segments previously described. This process requires great care and judgment. Fix one end of the work upwards in the bench screw, with the top side nearest to the operator, and, after taking off the corner to a considerable extent, with the bevelled side of the chisel towards the wood, shave small pieces away until the segment marks are reached, taking care to keep the whole curve at right angles to the sides throughout. Then, turn the work, and dress the corner at the other end in like manner. Then file judiciously where required, and finish with sand-paper.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 10._

_Pen Rest._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 11._

_Flower Pot Cross._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _No. 13._

_Knife Rest._]