Guide to Yosemite Part 4

About a quarter of a mile westward is the old Mail Carrier's Cabin, the site of the ancient village of Ah-wah'-ma. Across the canyon the rugged ramparts of the south rim rise imposingly above and ~Meadow Brook~ pours over the edge to leap 1170 feet as ~Widow's Tears Fall~.

A small dam in the Merced diverts water for the intake of the two thousand-watt generators of the new government power house just below the road. South of the river is a grotesque promontory which is well named Pulpit Rock.

At the two small bridges about one and a half miles further down the canyon we pa.s.s the foot of ~Cascade Falls~ which, during the flood waters of early spring, is one of the most attractive scenic features of the El Portal Highway. From these bridges is also the best view of ~Elephant Rock~, down the canyon. Less than a quarter of a mile further, ~Wildcat Falls~ pour over the cliff at the right. A short distance beyond, stage drivers often point out the image of a white Persian cat on the wall above the road. The old ~Coulterville Road~ now branches to the right and steeply ascends the canyon wall. This was the first road into Yosemite and was completed in 1874. Just below Elephant Rock is ~Battleship Harbor~, a placid reach of the Merced in which fancied granite dreadnaughts ride anchor.

A little more than a mile further down the canyon ~Grouse Creek~ tumbles over the south wall in a series of cascades. We now pa.s.s beneath ~Arch Rock~, a natural tunnel formed by two huge granite talus blocks. The trail bridge across the Merced, a short distance westward, is the crossing of the ~Sunset Trail~, which pa.s.ses the mid-winter ranger station opposite and ascends past the foot of ~Avalanche Falls~ to the Wawona Road, 2500 feet above.

Two miles further down the canyon we pa.s.s out of the park and into the ~Stanislaus National Forest~ thru a region of gnarled oaks and silver-gray digger pines. During the early season ~Indian Creek~, across the canyon, forms the picturesque ~Chinquapin Falls~.

One mile below the park line is ~El Portal~, the terminus of the ~Yosemite Valley Railroad~. There is here a hotel and a small store.

On the opposite slope is the incline of the Yosemite Lumber Company down which flat cars loaded with logs are lowered. From El Portal a four-hour ride by railroad takes us to ~Merced~.

ROAD TRIP VI-A

YOSEMITE VILLAGE TO POHONO BRIDGE _via_ THE BRIDALVEIL ROAD

(5 miles--20 minutes by stage)

The ~Bridalveil Road~ parallels the south bank of the Merced from Yosemite to Pohono Bridge, five miles westward. This route is more attractive and more scenic than the northern, or El Capitan Road, which is often taken by the stages.

From Yosemite Village we bear westward across the meadows. The ~Sentinel~ towers above at the left and in the distance are the portals of the valley. About one mile takes us past a Park Ranger's cabin near the spot where Galen Clarke's house stood until 1919. Just northward, at the edge of a big meadow, was once the Indian village of Hoo'-koo-me'-ko-tah.

A little further and directly under the Sentinel stand the remaining buildings of old Camp Awahnee, occupying the site of the large and important Indian community of Loi'-ah. The name, which means "a long water basket," was also the Yosemites' appellation for the great rock tower above. The ~Short Trail to Glacier Point~ here turns to the left and begins its zigzag course up the canyon wall. The ~Ford Road~, a subsidiary route branching to the right, leads to ~The Big Pine~, which is the largest known specimen of western yellow pine in the park. During the flood waters of early spring, ~Sentinel Falls~ descend in a picturesque cascade at the western flank of the great obelisk.

Again continuing westward, we are treated to charming vistas across the Merced. Especially effective from this angle is the great triple pyramid of ~Three Brothers~ b.u.t.tressing the north wall. Just opposite them on the banks of the river was Kis'-se, the westernmost of the large Indian villages on the south or "coyote" side of the valley. To the west a splendid profile of ~El Capitan~ is revealed and suddenly at the left of the road the ~Cathedral Spires~, each rising 500 feet from its base, seem to tower above the south rim. The Yosemites called the latter Po-see'-na Chuck'-ah, or "mouse-proof rocks," from a fancied resemblance to their acorn caches. A village just below them in a small meadow near the river was called We'-sum-meh.

We now skirt the powerfully outlined ~Cathedral Rocks~. At ~El Capitan Bridge~ one may cross to the north side of the river. Directly opposite is a ranger station at the foot of the ~Big Oak Flat Road~ (Road Trip IV). From that point the ~El Capitan Road~ (Road Trips I and VI) leads both up and down the valley.

Continuing along the shaded highway, we veer to the south, pa.s.sing close to the foot of ~Bridalveil Fall~, charming glimpses of which are here and there revealed between the trees. Just below a very large rock at the east margin of ~Bridalveil Creek~ is the site of the ancient village of Lem-me'-hitch'-ke. Perhaps the unspeakable awe with which the Yosemites were supposed to look upon Pohono, "the spirit of the evil wind," has been somewhat exaggerated in the past. A short subsidiary road turns to the left to the foot of the fall, a brief side trip which should be taken by all visitors.

A short drive now takes us to the junction with the ~Wawona Road~ (Road Trip III) which bears to the left at ~Bridalveil Checking Station~ and climbs thru the forests of the canyon-side. Turning to the right, we soon enter ~Bridalveil Meadow~. Near the river was once the Indian village of Sap-pah'-sam-mah. At the edge of the meadow, about 100 feet north of the road, a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, Rose and Shurban, who were ma.s.sacred here by the Indians in 1852. The view back across the meadows towards the ~Gates of the Valley~ is one of the best from this elevation. At the left is the great shoulder of ~El Capitan~, with the ~Ribbon Fall~ almost hidden in a deep recess at its west. At the right of the portal the beautiful ~Bridalveil~ leaps gracefully from its hanging valley between ~Cathedral Rocks~ and the ~Leaning Tower~.

Plunging again into the deep woods, we stop for a draught of ice-cold water at ~Fern Spring~, and a short distance beyond emerge at the beautiful border of the Merced. Crossing ~Pohono Bridge~ we join the ~El Portal Road~. El Portal is ten miles westward via Road Trip VI, and Yosemite five miles eastward via Road Trip I.

YOSEMITE TRAILS

For an ideal vacation-land, Yosemite could scarcely be surpa.s.sed. Of the 600 miles of trails in the park probably half are within two days walking distance of the valley. It is this portion of the park which is described in the following trail trips--the region which may be seen on walking tours from the valley as a base camp.

For the person whose days in Yosemite are limited, Glacier Point undoubtedly offers the most attractive one-day excursion. It is reached by a number of trails, chief of which are the beautiful Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail, the steep but thrilling climb up the narrow Ledge Trail, and the dusty, toilsome ascent of the Short Trail. Most thrilling of all Yosemite Trails is the ascent of Half Dome, made possible by the recent construction of a cable-guarded route up its north shoulder. Further northeastward is the commanding summit of Clouds Rest, a long one-day round trip, but well repaid by a magnificent panorama of the High Sierra. North of the Yosemite walls the most comprehensive views may be had from Eagle Peak. The top of North Dome is also a vantage point of the first order, but the round trip is a long one-day climb. The summit of El Capitan, although exceedingly lofty, is rather disappointing except for the view over its rim into the abyss below. Sierra Point is but one hour's climb above the valley and offers an especially good panorama.

Many ideal two-day walking trips from Yosemite are made possible by accommodations at the lodges in the High Sierra. Chief among these excursions are the trips to Lake Tenaya, Tuolumne Meadows and Merced Lake. Other charming trails are described in the following text.

TRAIL TRIP 1

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS AND RETURN _via_ THE SHORT TRAIL

Reverse of Trail Trip 2

(16 miles--8 hours)

If one were so time-poor as to have but one day in Yosemite, he should by all means climb to Glacier Point via Vernal and Nevada Falls and return via the Short Trail. This most scenic trip is easily made afoot in one day and should be taken as follows rather than in the opposite direction because (_a_) one faces the falls in ascending, and (_b_) the gradual ascent is less tiring. Early in the season it is a good plan to carry a sack or newspaper for protection while pa.s.sing thru the mist of Vernal Falls.

The ~Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail~ starts near Happy Isles Bridge, 2.3 miles from Yosemite Village. The trail leaves the road at the right just beyond the bridge, or we may take the footpath through ~Happy Isles~, crossing the river on a foot-log and joining the main trail a quarter mile above. Ascending the canyon, the trail climbs 200 feet above the roaring Merced, which was here called by the Indians the "Yanopah" or "water cloud," referring to the mist of Vernal Falls.

A quarter of a mile from the bridge is a fine spring. Here the ~Sierra Point Trail~ (Trail Trip 12) turns left. Rounding the base of ~Grizzly Peak~ we pa.s.s opposite the mouth of ~Illilouette Canyon~ and see ~Illilouette Falls~ (Drop 350 feet) at its head. The name is a corruption of the Indian name, Too-tool-a-we-ack. The small dam in the river below diverts water to the Happy Isles Power House. To the left of Illilouette Canyon is ~Panorama Cliff~, along the rim of which our trail runs after a three-hour climb by the Mist Trail (one hour longer by horse trail).

Descending 100 feet the trail crosses ~Vernal Bridge~, from which is a fine view of ~Vernal Falls~, a half mile distant. Near this point was the old Indian Camp of Ap'-poo-meh. Straight ahead the horse trail climbs 1600 feet and then descends to the top of Vernal Falls.

Pedestrians should take the much more scenic ~Mist Trail~, which turns left just beyond the bridge, saving thereby one hour and several hundred feet climb. Paralleling the river we pa.s.s ~Lady Franklin Rock~, from whence may be obtained excellent photographs of Vernal Falls. The trail mounts thru the boulder-strewn forest and finally rounds a rocky point on a narrow ledge. Use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! We now enter the mist, traversing the luxuriant garden of flowers and gra.s.ses which gives the fall its name. Between 10 and 12 a.m. beautiful ~circular rainbows~ may be seen in the mist.

Climbing the steep slope at the right we obtain fine profiles of the fall. The trail then swings beneath an overhanging cliff and mounts a steep narrow ledge to the top of ~Vernal Falls~ (Alt. 5049, Drop 317 feet). The Indians called the fall "Yan-o-pah," or "water cloud,"

which was also the name for the canyon below. Over the rim of the natural granite parapet we have an excellent outlook down the canyon.

By climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and hanging trail descending to a grotto, from which a good view of Glacier Point is obtained.

Above Vernal Falls we pa.s.s a glacial tarn called ~Emerald Pool~, at the upper end of which the Merced rushes down over smooth granite, forming the beautiful ~Silver Ap.r.o.n~ and ~Waterwheel~.

Just above is the ~Diamond Cascade~ and bridge. Our trail now joins the horse trail, which descends from the slope above. Crossing the river at Diamond Cascade, the trail ascends to ~Snow Flat~ below ~Liberty Cap~ (Alt. 7072), which towers above to the left. This granite dome, the Mah'-ta, or "Martyr Mountain" of the Indians, can be ascended by a difficult climb up its eastern flank. Good rock-climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and ~Mt. Broderick~ (Alt. 6705) just northward. At the left of the trail is the site of the old La Casa Nevada Hotel (The Snow House), which was built in the early days and burned down in 1897. The old register is in the Yosemite Museum. The rockslide to the left fell from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918. Fishing is fair from Diamond Cascade to Nevada Falls. The trail turns left and mounts 500 feet by the famous ~Nevada Falls Zigzags~. When white men first visited Yosemite, part of the Merced descended in a cascade where the trail is now built. At the top of the switchbacks the trail to ~Little Yosemite~, ~Clouds Rest~, ~Tuolumne Meadows~ and ~Merced Lake~ (Trail Trips 13, 5, 8 and 7) continues up the canyon. There is here a government telephone (Central 1 ring). The new location of a refreshment stand and rest house in the vicinity is indicated by a sign.

Our trail turns right and crosses a small bridge, thence turning southwest to the top of ~Nevada Falls~ (Alt. 5910, Height 594 ft.).

Nevada is "snow" in Spanish and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we.

Note especially the shooting spray rockets. These are most wonderful when painted by first rays of sunshine at 7.30 to 8 a.m. Many claim that, looking down from the rim, the Nevada is the valley's most fascinating and beautiful fall. Above this point the river was called by the Yosemite Tribe "Yo-wy-we-ack," or the "twisting rock" branch.

Crossing the river just above the falls, the trail climbs abruptly 700 feet by switchbacks. At the summit the ~Mono Meadow~ and ~Merced Pa.s.s Trail~ up ~Illilouette Creek~ turns left (Trail Trip 23). Our trail turns right and follows the rim of ~Panorama Cliff~ almost level for about one mile to ~Panorama Point~ (Alt. 6224). From here is a fine view of ~Royal Arches~, ~Washington Column~ and ~North Dome~ across the head of ~Yosemite Valley~, and of ~Half Dome~ and ~Grizzly Peak~ to the right. The trail descends 400 feet to the top of ~Illilouette Falls~ (Alt. 5850, Fall 370 ft.). Good fishing is reported in upper ~Illilouette Creek~. Exploration up this canyon will well repay those interested in glacial phenomena.

Climbing out of the ~Illilouette Canyon~, the trail runs north thru open forest. The fallen trees and prostrate bushes are caused by snow-slides from ~Illilouette Ridge~ above (Alt. 8250. Fine view from summit). As the trail climbs, the view of ~Mt. Starr King~, ~Mt.

Clark~ and the ~High Sierra~ gradually unfolds. The trail joining from the south leads to ~Buena Vista Lake~ and ~Royal Arch Lake~ (Trail Trip 22). From one point in the ascent is an especially good profile of ~Half Dome~ across the canyon. Following along granite ledges the trail pa.s.ses ~Glacier Point Hotel~ (Alt. 7200), from which is a most comprehensive panorama of the High Sierra. Accommodations are excellent and one should remain here over night if possible to see the sunrise. ~Glacier Point~ and the overhanging rock are about 200 yards beyond the hotel. This lookout point was called Patill'ima by the Yosemite Tribe. From here we obtain what is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring view readily accessible to tourists. The valley floor is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.

The descent from Glacier Point to Yosemite is generally made by the ~Short Trail~ (5 miles, 1-1/2 hour walk). From the hotel the trail follows westward along the canyon wall. Rounding a point we get an excellent profile view of the ~Gates of the Valley~ with ~Sentinel Rock at~ the left and ~El Capitan~ at the right. Descending 900 feet by switchbacks thru a forest of fir, sugar pine, yellow pine, Douglas fir and incense cedar, we reach ~Union Point~ (Alt. 6314--2350 feet above the valley floor). There is here a refreshment stand where cooling drinks and light lunches may be obtained. A short distance from the point is a shelter cabin and a government telephone (Central 1 ring).

Descending past ~Aga.s.siz Column~, a huge balancing shaft of granite, the trail zigzags down the mountain side, emerging at several vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of ~Half Dome~ and the north end of the valley. The character of the forest now changes, oaks and laurel entering to replace the diminishing fir. The trail terminates at the foot of ~Sentinel Rock~ at the site of the old Camp Awahnee and the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Yosemite is 1.3 miles distant by road to the right. During the season a regular auto-bus service is maintained between this and other valley points.

TRAIL TRIP 2

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ THE SHORT TRAIL AND RETURN _via_ VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS

Reverse of Trail Trip 1

(16 miles--8 hours)

The Glacier Point excursion is a most scenic one-day trip and this is the most widely used of Yosemite trails. Parties are advised to take the reverse of this trip (Trail Trip 1) thereby obtaining views of the falls which are unnoticed on the down trip. The ascent is also more gradual and therefore less tiring.

The ~Short Trail to Glacier Point~ starts from the Bridalveil Road 1.3 miles west of Yosemite at the site of old Camp Awahnee and of the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Turning southward we ascend abruptly thru a dense forest of oak, mountain laurel, scattered pines, cedar and Douglas fir. As the trail climbs rapidly by switchbacks, broad-leaved trees disappear, their places being taken by sugar pines and true firs from above. Frequently the trail emerges at vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of ~Half Dome~ and the north end of the valley. A climb of 2350 feet takes us past a balancing shaft of granite, ~Aga.s.siz Column~, to ~Union Point~ (Alt.

6314). At this fine view-point are a government shelter cabin and telephone (Central 1 ring.)

The remaining 900-foot climb to Glacier Point is thru a dense forest with some vast views to the northeast. A short level stretch near the end leads to ~Glacier Point~ (Alt. 7214). The view from the vicinity of the overhanging rock is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring sight readily accessible to tourists. The Yosemite Tribe called this lookout point Patill'ima. Yosemite is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.