Guide to Yosemite Part 2

Crossing Sentinel Bridge to ~Yosemite Village~ we halt at the ~Sentinel Hotel~ which, with the cottages opposite, occupies the site of the old Indian village Haw-kaw-koo'-e-tah, the home of the band called Yo-ham'-i-te, for whom the valley was named. A short distance beyond is the office of the U.S. National Park Service, where all campers should stop and register.

We continue up the canyon, now paralleling the south river margin thru a beautiful pine, fir and cedar forest. Thru the trees we now and then catch a glimpse of the ~Quarter Domes~ beyond the dominating ~Half Dome~, and finally the summit of ~Clouds Rest~. Three-quarters of a mile from the village is the picturesque ~Sierra Club Lodge~ at the right of the road. A short distance further is ~Camp Curry~, delightfully situated among the giant pines and cedars at the base of the towering cliff of Glacier Point. At this spot was the large Indian village of Too-yu'-yu'-yu, and a short distance to the northeast in the meadow was Too-lah'-kah'-mah. This famous hostelry, Camp Curry, is the final destination of all stages. The road continues up the canyon to Happy Isles.

ROAD TRIP I-A

POHONO BRIDGE TO YOSEMITE _via_ BRIDALVEIL ROAD

(5 miles--20 minutes by stage)

The ~Bridalveil Road~, ascending the south side of the valley, is scenically superior to the north, or El Capitan Road. Crossing Pohono Bridge to the south side of the Merced the road immediately enters a dense and beautiful forest. A short distance takes us to ~Fern Spring~, justly famous for the purity of its ice cold water. One-half mile beyond we suddenly emerge at ~Bridalveil Meadows~, obtaining a most charming view of the Gates of the Valley. At the right, ~Bridalveil Fall~ leaps 630 feet from its hanging valley, the one side of which is formed by the ma.s.sively sculptured ~Cathedral Rocks~, and the other by a solid granite ridge terminating at ~Leaning Tower~, another eminence of the turreted south wall. On the opposite side of the canyon rises the sheer face of ~El Capitan~. In the recess at its west the evanescent streamer of ~Ribbon Fall~ descends in a lace-like film.

At the edge of the meadow about 100 feet north of the road a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, Rose and Shurban, who were ma.s.sacred here by the Indians in May, 1852. Near the river was once the Indian village of Sap-pah'-sam-mah. The road now pa.s.ses near ~Bridalveil Fall~, charming glimpses of which are now and then revealed. A subsidiary road turns to the right and leads to the foot of the falls. This short side trip should be taken by all visitors. Just below a very large rock at the east margin of the stream is the site of the ancient village of Lem-me'-hitch'-ke. In view of this fact, our stories of the Indians' great fear of Pohono, "the spirit of the evil wind," may be somewhat overdrawn.

Just below the imposing b.u.t.tress of the lowermost of the Cathedral Rocks is ~El Capitan Bridge~, and near it ~Lo-to-ya~ (Flower) ~Spring~. North of the river is El Capitan Checking Station and the terminus of the ~Big Oak Flat Road~ (Road Trip IV). East of Cathedral Rocks we are treated to a sudden view of the two marvelously slender ~Cathedral Spires~, each rising 500 feet from its base and appearing to tower even above the Yosemite rim. Directly opposite across ~El Capitan Meadows~ is a most comprehensive view of the mighty wall of Tote-ack-ah-noo-la, the "Rock Chief" of the Indians, whose t.i.tle was merely translated into Spanish to make the present name. Chauffeurs often point out the likeness of the chief and other more or less imaginary mural images. In a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy Jeffrey pine 82.4 feet high and two feet in diameter.

In driving beneath the oaks, alders, pines and firs we enjoy ever-changing vistas across the placid river. ~Three Brothers~, ma.s.sively piled promontories of the north wall, are least harshly seen from this road. Directly ahead rises the watchtower of ~Sentinel Rock~. At its west flank the transitory ~Sentinel Fall~ descends in a series of cascades during the spring thaws. Below Sentinel Rock we pa.s.s the site of Galen Clark's cabin, of old Camp Awahnee, and of the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. About one and a quarter miles further is Yosemite Village. All campers should register at the National Park Service headquarters.

ROAD TRIP II

A TOUR OF THE FLOOR OF THE VALLEY

(9 miles--2 hours ride--1/2 to 1 day walk)

Every Yosemite visitor should spend at least one day within the valley itself before beginning the more strenuous trail trips. There is so much to be seen from the valley floor that weeks might be spent there were it not for "the call of the High Country" beyond the walls. The following itinerary includes a visit to most places of interest in the upper (east) end of the valley: Sentinel Bridge, Indian Village, Royal Arches, Washington Column, Indian Cave, Mirror Lake, Half Dome, Mineral Springs, Tenaya Bridge, Happy Isles, Camp Curry and Le Conte Memorial Lodge, in the order mentioned.

Road Trips I and VI describe the region west of the village. The following excursion may be made by motor in two or three hours. Hikers will find it a moderately long half-day tramp or a leisurely one-day ramble. An early start should be made in order to see the sunrise at Mirror Lake. It is well to ascertain the hour beforehand, for this varies with the season of the year.

From ~Yosemite Village~ we cross Sentinel Bridge and follow the poplar-bordered road across the meadow. Straight ahead is ~Yosemite Fall~ and the ~Lost Arrow~, and at our right a most comprehensive view of ~North Dome~, the ~Royal Arches~, ~Washington Column~, ~Half Dome~ and ~Glacier Point~. At the Grizzly Hotel site the El Capitan Road (Road Trip VI) branches westward, while our route turns up the canyon.

The distant buildings to the left of the road are the Government barns, shops and warehouses. In this group is the menagerie which will well repay a subsequent visit. Nearer is the picturesque old cemetery where many pioneers of the region lie at rest. A little farther eastward on the largest open level area in Yosemite is the site of the important old village of Ah-wah'-ne, from which the valley took its Indian name.

Continuing along the ~Royal Arch Road~ we soon pa.s.s the new Rangers'

Club House. Just beyond, a cross road to the right leads to the garage. To the northward, high overhead, are the silhouettes of the ~Castle Cliffs~, and at their east the deep cleft of ~Indian Canyon~ which, to the Yosemite tribe, was "Le Hammo" because of the arrowwood which grew there. Along the precipitous cliffs of the east wall ran their main trail into Yosemite from the north. From the valley floor at the base of a cliff just west of the Royal Arches they first climbed a large oak and then made their way along narrow ledges toward the northwest. It was at this oak that old Chief Tenaya was captured in 1851 by Lieutenant Chandler and the scout Sandino.

At the mouth of Indian Canyon is ~Yo'-watch-ke~, the only Indian village in the valley which is still occupied. During the July celebrations it is picturesquely alive but at other times the few dirty o'-chums are almost repulsive. This area on the alluvial fan of Indian Creek is the warmest spot in the valley and botanists will here find many plants typical of the lower alt.i.tudes.

A short distance further we pa.s.s Camp 17 at the right of the road.

About a quarter of a mile beyond and on the opposite side is Camp 20.

At a road junction is a small settlement called Kenneyville, which occupies the site of the former Indian Camp of Wis'-kah-lah. Here the ~Le Conte Road~ turns south, leading to Camps 15 and 7, and across Stoneman Bridge to Camp Curry on the Happy Isles Road. Doubling back to the westward is ~Sequoia Lane~, a road leading to Camps 6 and 7, and to Yosemite Village, one mile distant.

We continue eastward, pa.s.sing Camp 8, which is above the road and just at the west end of the ~Royal Arches~. During the spring thaw the beautiful but ephemeral ~Royal Arch Fall~ descends over a cliff at the left. Its Indian name, Scho-ko-ya, meant "basket fall." In the next half mile our road is flanked by the overhanging cornices of the colossal arches. They must be viewed from afar if we would realize how aptly they were called by the Yosemites "Scho-ko-ni," which means "the movable shade to a cradle basket." At the left of the road and directly beneath the arches is Camp 9. As we continue along the road, breaks in the forest reveal intermittent views of ~Washington Column~ towering above to the left, and of the great face of ~Half Dome~ dominating all the east.

A short subsidiary road to the left now leads to ~Indian Cave~ immediately under Washington Column. The Yosemites named this retreat Hol'-low', but sometimes called it Lah-koo'-hah, which means "Come out!" It is a low, broad, deep recess under a huge rock and is said to have been occupied as a winter shelter; also when the Yosemites were attacked and almost exterminated by the Mono Lake Piutes. The overhanging rock is black with the smoke of ages, and far back in the cave large quant.i.ties of acorn sh.e.l.ls have been found.

Returning the short distance to the main road, we again turn eastward, soon pa.s.sing a group of excellent mineral springs at the right. The highway now bears gradually to the north into the mouth of ~Tenaya Canyon~ and in one-half mile ends in a "loop" at the west margin of ~Mirror Lake~. The relative darkness in this deep canyon and the absence of wind during the early morning hours insures a perfect reflection for almost every morning of the vacation season. Most perfect are the reflections of ~Mount Watkins~ (the Wei-yow or "Juniper Mountain" of the Yosemites) guarding the entrance to the forbidden gorge of Tenaya. Unfortunately the delta of Tenaya Creek has greatly encroached upon the mirror and has reduced it to but a remnant of the beautiful lake which the Indians called Ah-wei'-yo, or "quiet water." From the end of the road the Tenaya Lake and North Dome Trail (Trail Trips 4 and 6) continue around the western sh.o.r.e of the lake and up the canyon.

After the appearance of the sun over the shoulder of Half Dome, we retrace the last half mile of our route, turning aside for a short visit to the mineral springs. A little distance further the main road forks and we take the left-hand branch which crosses ~Tenaya Bridge~.

A detour to the westward now takes us around and over a portion of the lateral moraine left at the junction of the ancient Tenaya and Merced glaciers. Near this point was Hoo-ke'-hahtch-ke', an Indian village inhabited up to about 1897.

A road which branches to the right offers a short-cut to Camp Curry, about three-quarters of a mile distant. It pa.s.ses Camps 11 and 14, and the site of the Lick House, one of the inns of early days. The main road, however, bears to the left and parallels the beautiful banks of the Merced. Less than a mile takes us to the ~Happy Isles Bridge~.

Here the main trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls, Glacier Point, Half Dome, Clouds Rest, Merced Lake, etc. (see Trail Trips), turns south and ascends the ~Merced Canyon~. At the right of the bridge is a U.S.

Weather Bureau observation station. On the west side of the stream is the old power plant and from it starts the footpath to ~Happy Isles~.

The short side trip from island to island should not be missed.

Especially are these charming garden spots noted for the beauty of their flowering dogwoods, maples and alders. The round trip to Sierra Point (Trail Trip 12) may easily be accomplished from this point in one hour. A refreshment stand is maintained in the vicinity. To escape the dust of the road one may follow the picturesque ~Happy Isles Trail~ from its beginning near the power house to Camp Curry, one mile westward.

Our road now bears to the northwest and rounds the imposing b.u.t.tress of ~Glacier Point~. One-half mile takes us to a spring at the left of the road which once supplied the large Indian village of Um'-ma-taw. A short distance beyond, our route is joined by the short-cut road from Mirror Lake. Near this road is a cabin often pointed out as having belonged to John Muir. It was really built and used by James C. Lamon, a pioneer and the first permanent resident of the valley. Muir's cabin has long since disappeared and its only existing photograph is in the possession of Dr. Wm. F. Bade. The orchard at the right occupies the site of Too'-lah'-kah'-mah, another vanished community of the Yosemite tribe.

Extending for a considerable distance along the road are the tents and bungalows of ~Camp Curry~. If we have time to stop, we may be refreshed by a swim in the huge open-air swimming pool, by cooling drinks at the soda fountain or by a rest beneath the great pines and cedars.

From the camp center a road to the north leads across the Stoneman Bridge to Kenneyville. At the right of the road is the site of the old Stoneman Hotel, which was built and maintained in the early days by the State of California, but which burned down in 1896. Close to the bridge, on the banks of the Merced, was once the large Indian village of Too-yu'-yu'-yu.

West of the Camp Curry bungalows we pa.s.s Camp 16, between the road and the river. Near this point the ~Ledge Trail~ turns to the south and mounts the talus slopes above Camp Curry. A short distance beyond is the new ~Le Conte Memorial Lodge~ picturesquely set among the pines and incense cedars where once was the Indian village of Ho-low, and where the old schoolhouse stood until 1911. The lodge is an ideal place to spend the remainder of the afternoon amongst photographs, flowers, books and maps, and in a cool and absolutely restful atmosphere. To the right of the road, where the river makes a big detour to the north, is Camp 19. One should note the remarkably perfect reflections in the river below the rock wall parapet during the remaining half-mile walk to Yosemite Village.

ROAD TRIP III

YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ CHINQUAPIN ROAD

(28 miles--4 to 5 hours by auto)

A trip to Glacier Point should be part of everyone's Yosemite itinerary. Many motorists prefer to make the excursion by road instead of by trail. The round trip from Yosemite can be made by machine in one day, but it is better to reserve accommodations in advance at the Glacier Point Hotel and remain there over night to view the sunrise over the High Sierra. Another excellent plan is to send one's machine around by road while one walks or rides to Glacier Point via the Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail (Trail Trip 1), returning to the valley via Chinquapin Road. The description of the first 14.5 miles of this trip, which follows the Wawona Road as far as Chinquapin, will be of interest to those leaving Yosemite by that route.

From Yosemite Village we follow the ~Bridalveil Road~ (Road Trip VI-A) down the valley four and a half miles to the Bridalveil Checking Station, where the Wawona Road turns to the left. Here all motorists must register. For safety the park regulations permit the ascent on even hours only, and at a speed of not more than twelve miles per hour.

We now climb steadily beneath a dense forest of pines, fir, incense cedar, oak and laurel, and at one and a half miles halt at ~Artist Point~ (Alt. 4701, 750 feet above the valley floor). The view of the ~Gates of the Valley~ to the east is claimed to be one of the most perfect of all Yosemite landscapes.

Gradually climbing another 690 feet we finally halt at ~Inspiration Point~ (Alt. 5391). The view of Yosemite is similar to that from Artist Point, but with the depths and distances more impressively accentuated. Across the canyon is ~Fireplace Bluff~. A view-finder beside the road indicates each point of interest. All machines should be registered at the Government Checking Station. Telephone communication and water are here available.

About half a mile beyond Inspiration Point is ~Fort Monroe~ (Alt.

5540), an old-time stage relay station. This is a fair campsite for auto parties. A good spring will be found near the Pohono Trail junction. The visit to the wild-flower gardens and many fine lookout points of the ~Pohono Trail~ (Trail Trip 18) is an especially fine one-day walking trip from this point.

Our road now leads thru most magnificent pine forests, which open now and then to give us short glimpses of the canyon of the Merced, thousands of feet below. About two miles from Fort Monroe the ~Hennessy Trail~ (Trail Trip 25) branches to the right and descends to El Portal, ten miles distant. ~Grouse Creek Crossing~, a half mile further, is a good auto camp. Fishing is fair downstream.

Another two miles takes us to ~Avalanche Creek~. There are here no camping places and the stream contains no trout. _Caution_: The worst turn on the road is about 200 yards beyond the crossing. One mile beyond Avalanche Creek the ~Sunset Trail~ (Trail Trip 24) leaves the road at the right, descending to the Mid-winter Ranger Station near Arch Rock on the El Portal Road.

One mile further is ~Chinquapin~, an old stage relay station at the junction of the Glacier Point and Wawona Roads. There is here a ranger station and during the summer gas and oil can be obtained. In the vicinity are many good camp sites. An excellent spring will be found 200 yards north of the ranger cabin. Fishing is fair in ~Indian Creek~ about a quarter of a mile southward; best fishing is downstream. Many deer are generally to be seen in the region. Chinquapin is especially noted for its wonderful sunsets. Before leaving, all machines should take water.

The main road continues southward to Wawona and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees and thence to Merced, Madera and Fresno. Our route turns eastward and climbs abruptly 1300 feet in the next three miles to the head of the canyon of Indian Creek. This long, hard grade takes us to the 7500-foot level, where we are at last on the gently sloping plateau above the valley walls. The following eleven miles is a delightful succession of mountain meadows and forests of red fir, lodgepole pine and other sub-alpine species. Numbers of deer can almost always be seen from the road, especially early in the morning.

~Peregoy Meadow~, about five miles from Chinquapin, was famous in the early days for its wayside inn on the "Yosemite Trail" from Clarke's (now Wawona). The old buildings have long since disappeared, but the trail, now called the ~Alder Creek Trail~ (Trail Trip 19), is still used. From Peregoy Meadow to Glacier Point are many fine camp sites.

About one mile eastward is ~Bridalveil Creek Crossing~. Fishing is good upstream, and fair about one mile downstream, but generally poor near the road.

At a trail junction about one and a half miles further, the ~Ostrander Lake and Buck Camp Trail~ (Trail Trips 20 and 21) turns southward (right). Here one may park his machine and walk to ~Ostrander Lake~ via Trail Trip 20 and return, a fifteen mile one-day round trip. The lake offers some of the best fishing in this section of the park.

Swinging gradually to the northeast the road pa.s.ses to the east of ~Ostrander Rocks~. A trail to the right leads to Mono Meadow and the basin of the Illilouette. Three miles further at ~Pothole Meadows~ the ~Peregoy Meadow Trail~ (Trail Trip 19) leaves the road at the left. A short distance beyond and at the same side of the road is the ~Pohono Trail~ turn-off (Trail Trip 17). A half mile further, just as the road starts its final descent to Glacier Point, is a trail to the left leading to ~Sentinel Dome~. The summit is but a few minutes distant and from it is revealed a vast panorama of the High Sierra.

A gradual descent in the final one and a half miles takes us past several lookout points to the road termination at ~Glacier Point Hotel~. Excellent accommodations are here obtainable. The overhanging rock and ~Glacier Point~ are 200 yards northward. (For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 1, 2, and 16 to 23.)