Guernsey Pictorial Directory and Stranger's Guide Part 3

_Flowers._--Floriculture has long been a favourite pursuit among the inhabitants, which no doubt has been the chief cause of rendering this department of gardening so famous. Although the best gardens are of no great extent, yet they often contain beautiful, rare, and valuable plants; and there are few cottages which have not a considerable s.p.a.ce dedicated to flowers. The mildness of the climate is such, that a variety of tender plants are grown in the open air, which would hardly endure the same exposition in the warmest spots of Devonshire or Cornwall. When the temperature falls to 6 degrees below freezing point, the season is considered unusually severe; consequently, many of the Cape heaths and hardier geraniums, together with a number of Australian shrubs and plants, and even those from central America endure our ordinary winters in screened situations without the least injury whatever. Thus, the eob[oe]a scandens, maurandia barclayana, and other creepers of a similar nature are found to spring up naturally from seed under the walls where they are planted; and even the Bath scarlet geranium has for several years been an ornament to cottage walls, to the height of ten or eleven feet. Fuchsias make such rapid progress that they finally become shrubs, when from their enc.u.mberance they are trained to poles like standard roses. Bulbs are cultivated with considerable advantage, as the frost is of such short duration, that it rarely ever freezes more than an inch or two in depth, and should a slight fall of snow happen it is their complete protection.

From a garden review, given by the late _Horticultural Chronicle_, it appears there were orange trees laden with fruit in every respectable garden; and in that of the dowager Lady De Saumarez there was one remarkably curious, from its rind being grown out into a kind of spar. In these gardens, and also in those of Sir Thomas Saumarez and Mr Brock, of Belmont, were montanariums, sanguisorb, large tree myrtles, creeping serius (eight yards long), mimosa (tree), paradoxia, candula, clematis azuria grandiflora; and in the green-house of Mr Brock were no less than from twelve to fifteen hundred calceolaria, together with innumerable others, all teeming with health and vigour.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

_Fogs and Mists._--At times rise up from the Channel, and consequently pa.s.s over the island, not unfrequently involving, throughout November, the Northern or lowland parishes in mist.

_French Women._--As the island is almost wholly supplied with provisions from France, these women may be seen located in the market in considerable numbers; and the English stranger at first sight wonders who and what they are. Sometimes they perambulate the country with baskets containing eggs, poultry, nuts, &c., and in this way things are often procured at the door exceedingly moderate. Their dress is peculiar to the provinces of France from whence they come, and as they never wear bonnets, the head-dress is most fantastically arranged. The annexed engraving represents one of their caps.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

_Frogs._--Are few, and only seen in marshy wet ground. There are no toads in the island, neither will they exist here, for the experiment has been tried from Jersey, where they abound in myriads, especially in umbrageous lanes. From a memorandum dated July 4, 1834, while living in Jersey, I find they creep from their lurking holes in the banks or hedges, throughout the summer evenings, in numbers almost incredible, especially in St Martin's parish, at times oft approaching in size nearly the Surinam toad.

_Frost and Snow._--Neither are severe, and the latter seldom remains on the ground beyond three days. One may be here two or three winters without witnessing both together, and not unfrequently without the least appearance of either. Like other maritime situations, the cold seems to be mitigated by caloric imparted to the atmosphere from the surrounding ocean; and the exuberance of the various exotics which flourish unguarded at all seasons in the open air, puts forth sufficient evidence of the mildness of the climate. The double camelias bloom abundantly in November, and orange-trees endure the winter with only a slight occasional covering of matting. A correspondent of the _Horticultural Chronicle_ observes that on riding towards St Saviour's he was much pleased to see two magnificent orange-trees hid in boxes as a shelter from the side winds, at the house of a Mr Hartley, and which then looked exceedingly handsome, as they were ornamented with some two or three dozen of fine ripe fruit.[A]

[A] In a memorandum, Sat.u.r.day, Feb. 6, 1841, I find that the winter of that year was the severest we have had for many years past. It destroyed many precious plants, especially myrtles and orange-trees, indeed its ravages were so extensive as to strip down huge limbs from the most robust trees, and in such quant.i.ties in the sister-isle, that many dreaded the consequences. This frost appears to have been very remarkable, for the preceding evening was marked by a dense mist, which in contact and in co-operation with a sudden frost, glazed the trees and shrubs with ma.s.ses of ice, and gave them the appearance of solid icicles, which gave rise to the following witticism: "If the whole island were not christianized, it was at least crystalized." It proved fatal to several interesting exotics, which had been the pride of many a garden. The Cape heaths and Australian shrubs were almost all destroyed. Every species of leptospermum, which had braved our winters for forty years, were killed. The general scenery at the time was so exceedingly beautiful, from the ramifications of the trees being wrought up into so many magical and fantastical shapes, that I endeavoured to make a sketch of one, but the cold was too intense to allow me to accomplish my object. The snow and frost continued to increase from Monday the 1st, and on the 3rd and 5th all creation was white.

_Furniture._--Of all kinds may be obtained on reasonable terms, as it has of late been contrived by some speculative people to enter on a business of this kind. Families, ere they determine on taking up their abode here, would do well in being accommodated with a loan of furniture. On the contrary, should they purchase new, with a view to sell it hereafter, they will have just cause to repent, as it will not realize one quarter of its original value.

_Gardens._--Are considered, by eminent horticulturists, not only numerous, but beyond every thing exuberant and flourishing. Some few years ago, gardening was considered but an indifferent occupation; but as things take a change for the best, Guernsey was one of the foremost to bring this elegant amus.e.m.e.nt to its proper bearing. Aided and abetted by the natural good qualities of soil and climate, horticulture made rapid strides, and soon out-stripped some of the vaunted paradises of Europe, and the fruits, flowers, and vegetables that the Channel Isles' markets continually teem with, sufficiently testify the same. Among the list that may be seen continually pouring into our market, in their various seasons, may be enumerated the following: peaches, apricots, figs, strawberries, melons (rather inferior), walnuts, chesnuts, raspberries, mulberries, medlars, cuc.u.mbers, varieties of grapes, (in-door and out,) and abundance of apples and pears; the latter are exported to England in considerable quant.i.ties, together with grapes, figs, and melons; the last mentioned are imported from Lower Normandy and Britany, and are of a delicious flavour. Large chaumontel pears, being generally destined for presents in England, fetch a good price, and at times 3l. to 5l. per hundred is readily obtained for them, and even more, if they weigh from twelve to eighteen ounces. The small ones, which are generally the largest crop, may be obtained exceedingly reasonable by the bushel. The Guernsey fig being also much esteemed, large quant.i.ties are brought into the market, where they only fetch from 3d. to 4d. per dozen. Whole vergees of strawberries may be seen in the country for the same purpose, and yield 1-1/2d. per lb. Grapes (out-door) are from 2d. to 3d. do., Spanish muscatel 6d. do. Melons are from 6d. to 1s. The princ.i.p.al nurseries are Nant's, Luff's, and Lumby's.

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_Gas._--Is supplied to houses in town and the suburbs, from two s.p.a.cious gas-holders sufficiently large to supply three times the present consumption. The town is but partially lit with gas; the old oil-lamp being still in general use. The proprietor of the works is Mr Thomas Edge, of Westminster, who erected them in 1830.

_George, Fort._--Is the princ.i.p.al fortification of the island, and is constructed on the improved form of a square, having four bastions connected by curtains, with a ravelin to the South, and a counter-scarp to the South-West. It will admit about three thousand men, and has thirty-four pieces of cannon, four mortars, and a caronade. Most of the batteries are erected in a form for repelling the enemy at sea, and some of them are very formidable. From the ramparts or parade ground there is one of the most extensive and diversified prospects in the island; and underneath the former are s.p.a.cious casemates, which in case of a siege can be converted into barracks. It was completed in the year 1812, at a national cost of 200,000l., but was commenced immediately after the breaking out of the American war, in 1782.

_Goal._--The public goal was erected in 1811, and cost the island 11,000l.

It is a solid structure, built entirely with blue granite, and has a neat front elevation, in which are two galleries; the lower one for debtors, the upper one for criminals. The debtors have five cells, in all of which are fire-places, and the creditors by whom they are incarcerated are obliged to find them in blankets, a bedstead and straw pallia.s.ses; but must supply themselves with bed, bedding, and other furniture at their own expence.

They are unlocked throughout winter and summer at eight o'clock in the morning, and are locked up at sun-set every evening. They have a large court yard to walk in. The cells are provided with bell-pulls, communicating with the bed-room of the Governor, in case of sickness.

The felons' cells are ten in number, eight for the men, and two for the women; but it has been observed by the benevolent Mrs Fry, that the cells for the latter are not sufficiently apart from those of the men, insomuch that when locked up they can converse with each other, especially when taking air, being only separated by a part.i.tion of sheet iron and bars.

Felons and criminals are allowed exercise on the gallery in front of their cells, and according to the prison regulations are to be unlocked from ten in the forenoon till two in the afternoon; though, in point of fact, this s.p.a.ce of time is generally extended by the Governor, particularly in the summer season. In four of the cells are fire-places, and prisoners are allowed straw pallia.s.ses, three blankets and a rug; firing they must provide at their own expence. On a prisoner becoming refractory he may be deprived of his liberty, and by a report of the case to the Baillif within twenty-four hours, may be confined to the black-hole. Irons are not used on felons about to undergo the last penalty of the law, and prisoners under solitary confinement perform no work. There is no sick ward nor chapel, neither is there a chaplain appointed to visit the prisoners, but bibles and religious tracts are provided for their use.

The Governor has a house within the prison walls in which debtors may be accommodated, provided they pay an additional sum of 1s. 9d. per week.

Debtors not having the wherewithal to maintain themselves, are allowed 9d.

per day, which the creditor at whose suit they are imprisoned is bound to pay them, otherwise they are set at liberty. Criminals are provided for out of the revenue belonging to the Crown. Strangers are permitted to visit debtors from nine in the morning until four in the afternoon, from the 1st of October to the 1st of April, and from nine in the morning until seven in the afternoon from the 1st of April to the 1st of October.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Goal.]

_Herbs and Medical Plants._--Are in great abundance in every part of the island, but as a list of them would be out of place in a work of this kind, it only remains for me to mention those which are in the greatest profusion under foot, and which, from close observation I have found to be most useful in medicine, cookery, and other purposes. They are:--wood-sage, camomile, samphire, lords and ladies, fools-stones, blue-bells, pennyworth,[A] ladies' smock, hagnebuts, eryngo,[B] fox-glove, night-shade, high-taper, mugwort, robin-run-in-the-hedge and mouse-ear, with numerous others.

[A] From a memorandum dated April 3, 1832, I find that pennyworth or hart's-tongue steeped in vinegar for twenty-four hours, to be the most efficient remedy for corns I ever knew, and on communicating it to a few others, they were pleased to acknowledge the same. I have many other memorandums on Guernsey herbs; but as they are written in Latin, and were mislaid up to the hour of publishing, are consequently omitted.

[B] Hops are antiseptic, and are an excellent thing for packing game in, for in a memorandum, Wednesday, September 7, 1842--"Received a hamper of grouse from a friend in Newcastle; were a fortnight at sea, and perhaps had been killed for upwards of a month: nevertheless, from their mouths and other parts being well stuffed with hops, arrived in pretty tolerable condition." Wild hops may be observed growing in several parts of the island, especially about some of the hedges in the Valle, and near the Friquet. Camomile flower is also remarkably abundant in this vicinity, and in a field called the Queen's meadow the ground is literally covered with it.--_Memorandum, August 12, 1842._

[Ill.u.s.tration: Lords and Ladies.]

_Hay._--Varies in price, but is hardly ever beyond 6l. per ton, if so, the season must be unusually bad. The upland hay is generally esteemed the best.

_Horses._--Are small, cross grained, and given to biting; but are l.u.s.ty and hard workers. They are cheaper than in England, and a hack may be kept in the best order for about 20l. per annum. Horses at the livery stables may be hired at from 4s. to 7s. per day. There are no taxes on horses, carriages or livery servants.

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_Hospital._--This excellent inst.i.tution, the admiration of every stranger, is under the direction of a Treasurer, Vice-Treasurer, six Directors, and six Collectors, elected by the rate-payers: and although called an hospital, partakes of the properties of a poor-house, a refuge for the dest.i.tute, a work-house, a penitentiary, and for the dest.i.tute youth of both s.e.xes a seminary of instruction; and, but for the receptacle for lunatics, its interior economy reflects the greatest credit on the island.

There is a chaplain whose salary is 30l. per annum, and the medical department is under the most liberal regulations. The boys and girls have schools, in which they are educated in all things useful for their future occupations through life. Indeed, the system pursued is in accordance with the most approved methods of modern times, for the expences are partly defrayed by the labour of the inmates, together with a strict performance of all the other in-door work, which is effected with the utmost regularity, order and cleanliness imaginable. So much is the general system admired, that it is spoken of in exceeding high terms by Quail and several other writers and travellers. A late visitor says:--"On entering the hospital, the scene was an active one, insomuch that almost all the men were occupied, some in weaving cloth, some as tailors, others as shoe-makers, &c., whilst the women were engaged in washing.[A] On the whole, whether we regard this hospital as an asylum from misery, or as a school of morality, I must say that I have never yet seen any inst.i.tution in the kingdom that would stand in compet.i.tion with it."

[A] In addition to washing for the hospital, a great deal is taken in from families living in the neighbourhood; by which means the women do much towards paying the expence of their maintenance. The greater part of the cloth, shoes, &c., which the men manufacture, is sold. The men are also employed as scavengers.

The number of inmates admitted in 1840, were 121 men, 100 women, 34 boys, and 27 girls, forming a total of 282. In the same year were indentured, 6 boys and 2 girls, whilst those discharged, escaped, or expelled were 33 boys, and 25 girls. The total expenditure of the said year was 4,358 8s. 5d. The following items pretty clearly indicate the comforts that reign within, as also the good feeling and humanity of the people of Guernsey:--14,526 lbs. of beef; 4,085 lbs. of bacon and pork; 471 qrs. of wheat; 115-1/2 hhds. of beer; 3,964 lbs. of b.u.t.ter; 1,400 f.a.ggots; 2,562 gallons of milk, together with many other things in due proportion. The average yearly expence of each inmate, is not more than seven pounds, notwithstanding that at least half of those in the hospital are boys and girls who produce but little, being the greater part of the day in school; and then there are also many lunatics and infirm people who are totally unable to do any thing towards their own support, and who are treated with great kindness, and allowed abundance of good food and clothing.

The Country Hospital is nearly on the same principle, and is situated in a secluded kind of valley, in the Catel parish.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Hospital Bread Knife.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Hospital Bread Machine.]

_Inns and Hotels._--In town, these are replete with every accommodation and comfort. The princ.i.p.al are Marshall's and Gardner's, and from both being situated in High-street, a very little distance from the pier, the porters are enabled without delay to set the visitor at ease. At the country inns may be obtained good plain fare, such as bread, b.u.t.ter, eggs, bacon, milk, cream, fish, cider, beer, spirits and wine, which latter article is not always to be had, and if so, is sometimes of an indifferent quality.

Besides inns, there are other houses in the country that entertain pic-nic parties throughout the summer, some of which are very superior in their accommodations, and exceedingly moderate in their charges. They may be easily discovered as the drivers of the coaches and omnibuses which run round the island, either know or put up at them.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Marshall's Hotel.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: St James's Church.]

_James's Church, St._--Was erected in 1818, and was consecrated on the 6th of August in the same year. It is situated opposite the side of the new Prison and near the College play ground, and is generally allowed to be a handsome specimen of Grecian architecture, the tower, portico and dome being considered the chief features. The funds for erecting it were raised in part from the sale of the pews, and from liberal donations granted by the late Lord De Saumarez, of which 400l. went in purchase of four hundred free sittings for the poor and the children of the national schools; 120l.

for the dome and tower, and latterly a donation of 400l., together with many other contributions and a.s.sistance, amounting in the whole to upwards of 1000l. The rest was raised by public subscription.

The church contains 1300 sittings, amongst which are four for the use of the minister, and twelve for casual strangers. The service, on Sundays is at half past ten in the morning, and in the evening at half past six.

Prayers are also read on Wednesdays and Fridays at noon, and also on festivals. The sacrament of the Lord's supper is twice in the quarter. The bell of this church cost 100l. and the organ 500l.

_John's Church, St._--Was erected in the year 1836, and in its style emulates the early English, though many of those genuine features are lost sight of. Contrary to every other church, the tower is at the East and the altar at the West end. It is built of well-wrought blue granite, and from being situated in the centre of a woody district, forms a considerable addition to the landscape. The foundation stone was laid by the late Lord De Saumarez, and it contains 600 sittings, 200 of which are free for the poor. The services are in English; two full services on Sundays, and weekly evening lecture. The endowment consists of a parsonage-house, adjoining the church, and 13l. per annum secured on rents; together with the surplus of the pews, which after payment of the current expences of the church, may amount to about 90l. per annum, provided the pews are all let.

[Ill.u.s.tration: St John's Church.]