Fast Food Nation Part 10

some of the meat used by Jack in the Box: See Terry McDermott, "The Jack in the Box Poisonings - Why Inspection of Meat Fails," See Terry McDermott, "The Jack in the Box Poisonings - Why Inspection of Meat Fails," Seattle Times Seattle Times, January 31, 1993; Frank Green, "Foodmaker, Suppliers Settle E. coli E. coli Claims," Claims," San Diego Union-Tribune San Diego Union-Tribune, February 25, 1998."This recent outbreak sheds light": Quoted in "Meat Inst.i.tute Urges Federal and State Agencies to Adopt Industry Guidelines Proven to Prevent Quoted in "Meat Inst.i.tute Urges Federal and State Agencies to Adopt Industry Guidelines Proven to Prevent E. coli E. coli 0157:H7 in Hamburgers," 0157:H7 in Hamburgers," PR Newswire PR Newswire, February 4, 1993."The presence of bacteria in raw meat": Quoted in Fox, Quoted in Fox, Spoiled Spoiled, p. 252.

208 had waited a week before acknowledging: had waited a week before acknowledging: See Robert Goff, "Coming Clean: After Its Tragic Outbreak of See Robert Goff, "Coming Clean: After Its Tragic Outbreak of E. coli E. coli, Jack in the Box Quickly Fixed Its Food Handling," Forbes Forbes, May 17, 1999.

210 A study of campaign contributions: A study of campaign contributions: See "The Captive Congress," a chapter in See "The Captive Congress," a chapter in Safety Last Safety Last, as well as the statistical tables, pp. 921, 7690.

212 prosecutors claimed... Both men were later found innocent: prosecutors claimed... Both men were later found innocent: See Scott Bauer, "Prosecutors: Former Hudson Foods Officials Lied about Meat Recall," See Scott Bauer, "Prosecutors: Former Hudson Foods Officials Lied about Meat Recall," AP AP, November 10,1999; "Tyson Unit Acquitted of Lying in Beef Recall; Hudson Quality Control Director Also Cleared," Arkansas Democrat-Gazette Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, December 4, 1999. health officials in Nevada did not learn from the company: health officials in Nevada did not learn from the company: FSIS Recall Policy Public Meeting. FSIS Recall Policy Public Meeting.

"had not been fully tested": Quoted in Elliot Jaspin and Scott Montgomery, "U.S. Mum on Fast Food Recalls," Quoted in Elliot Jaspin and Scott Montgomery, "U.S. Mum on Fast Food Recalls," c.o.x News Service c.o.x News Service, August 18, 1997, Jaspin and Montgomery have written a number of fine investigative pieces on the USDA and the meatpacking industry."We live in a very litigious society": Quoted ibid. Quoted ibid.

213 The USDA now informs the public: The USDA now informs the public: Interview with Elizabeth Gaston, USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service. Interview with Elizabeth Gaston, USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service.

"Its very frustrating for us": Quoted in Allison Young and Jeff Taylor, "Stealthy Meat Recalls Leave Consumers in Dark," Quoted in Allison Young and Jeff Taylor, "Stealthy Meat Recalls Leave Consumers in Dark," Denver Post Denver Post, May 13, 1999. See also Allison Beers, "Recalls Present Tough Decisions for Food Companies," Food Chemical News Food Chemical News, May 4, 1998; and Pan Demetrakakes, "Backlash: Recalls," Food Processing Food Processing August 1, 1999. August 1, 1999."Press releases will not identify": Quoted in "Recall of Meat and Poultry Products," FSIS Directive, January 19, 2000. Quoted in "Recall of Meat and Poultry Products," FSIS Directive, January 19, 2000.A recent IBP press release: "Ground Beef Product Recall," IBP news release, June 23, 2000. "Ground Beef Product Recall," IBP news release, June 23, 2000.

214 Nowhere does the press release mention: Nowhere does the press release mention: The story of the outbreak at Tiger Harry's is based on interviews with officials at the Arkansas Department of Health, including Dennis Berry, an epidemiologist; John Kraft, a field investigator; and Dr. David Bourne, medical director of the Preventive Health Section. See also "21 Ill, 11 Hospitalized for The story of the outbreak at Tiger Harry's is based on interviews with officials at the Arkansas Department of Health, including Dennis Berry, an epidemiologist; John Kraft, a field investigator; and Dr. David Bourne, medical director of the Preventive Health Section. See also "21 Ill, 11 Hospitalized for E. coli E. coli; Outbreak May Be Tied to Restaurant," Arkansas Democrat-Gazette Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, June 3, 2000; "266,000 Pounds of Bad Beef Recalled," Capital Times Capital Times, June 24, 2000; "Health Department Finds No Further Cases of E. coli E. coli Infection; USDA Investigating Ground Beef," press release, Arkansas Department of Health, June 16, 2000. Infection; USDA Investigating Ground Beef," press release, Arkansas Department of Health, June 16, 2000.

"We can fine circuses for mistreating elephants": Quoted in Carol Smith, "Overhaul in Meat Inspection No Small Potatoes, Official Says," Quoted in Carol Smith, "Overhaul in Meat Inspection No Small Potatoes, Official Says," Seattle Post-Intelligencer Seattle Post-Intelligencer, January 29, 1998.

215 demoralized and understaffed: demoralized and understaffed: See Allison Beers, "Plant Staffing Shortages Exacerbated by Excessive Absences, Low Morale," See Allison Beers, "Plant Staffing Shortages Exacerbated by Excessive Absences, Low Morale," Food Chemical News Food Chemical News, August 16, 1999.

the USDA had 12,000 meat inspectors: See Jake Thompson, "Meat Inspectors' Role Scrutinized: Critics Say That Despite a New Safety Program, There Are Too Few People to Monitor Plants," See Jake Thompson, "Meat Inspectors' Role Scrutinized: Critics Say That Despite a New Safety Program, There Are Too Few People to Monitor Plants," Omaha World-Herald Omaha World-Herald, August 24, 1997; "Industry Forum: State of the Union," Meat & Poultry Meat & Poultry, March 1998; and "Beefing Up Inspection," Government Executive Government Executive, February 1999.

215 the new HACCP plans are only as good: the new HACCP plans are only as good: For a strong critique of the current sys-tem from an unexpected source, see "Food Safety and Inspection Service: Implementation of the Hazard a.n.a.lysis and Critical Control Point System," U.S. Department of Agriculture, Office of Inspector General, Food Safety Initiative, Meat and Poultry Products, Report no. 240013-At, June 2000. For a strong critique of the current sys-tem from an unexpected source, see "Food Safety and Inspection Service: Implementation of the Hazard a.n.a.lysis and Critical Control Point System," U.S. Department of Agriculture, Office of Inspector General, Food Safety Initiative, Meat and Poultry Products, Report no. 240013-At, June 2000.

216 She routinely falsified her checklist: She routinely falsified her checklist: Gary Mickelson, a spokesman for IBP, told me that an employee who falsifies such doc.u.mentation is subject to disciplinary action by the company. He also told me that IBP employees have in fact been terminated for such behavior. Gary Mickelson, a spokesman for IBP, told me that an employee who falsifies such doc.u.mentation is subject to disciplinary action by the company. He also told me that IBP employees have in fact been terminated for such behavior.

220-degree steam: The number comes from "SPS 400: Information Update," a manual published by Frigoscandia Equipment, the manufacturer of steam pasteurization units. The number comes from "SPS 400: Information Update," a manual published by Frigoscandia Equipment, the manufacturer of steam pasteurization units.by about 90 percent: Ibid. Ibid."We have been informed that carca.s.ses": IBP memo from Dean Danilson to Leo Lang re: outrail cattle, May 19, 1997. IBP memo from Dean Danilson to Leo Lang re: outrail cattle, May 19, 1997.

217 The dirtiest meat was to be shipped out: The dirtiest meat was to be shipped out: When the memo leaked in June of 1998, IBP denied that it was shipping contaminated meat to outside suppliers, claimed its unusual outrail policy had been devised solely to address shelf-life concerns - and said that, in any event, the policy was no longer in effect. Gary Mickelson, an IBP spokesman, repeated the same a.s.sertions to me, adding that "IBP's quality and food safety programs... are considered by many to be the 'best' in the industry. We will not sell any products - whether it be boxed beef or beef carca.s.ses that we do not believe are safe for human consumption." See also "Ground Beef Guidelines Are Insufficient, STOP Says," When the memo leaked in June of 1998, IBP denied that it was shipping contaminated meat to outside suppliers, claimed its unusual outrail policy had been devised solely to address shelf-life concerns - and said that, in any event, the policy was no longer in effect. Gary Mickelson, an IBP spokesman, repeated the same a.s.sertions to me, adding that "IBP's quality and food safety programs... are considered by many to be the 'best' in the industry. We will not sell any products - whether it be boxed beef or beef carca.s.ses that we do not believe are safe for human consumption." See also "Ground Beef Guidelines Are Insufficient, STOP Says," Food Chemical News Food Chemical News, June 8, 1998.

research for the Star Wars antimissile program: See "t.i.tan to Put Whammy on Food Bacteria," See "t.i.tan to Put Whammy on Food Bacteria," San Diego Union-Tribune San Diego Union-Tribune, May 18, 1999.get rid of the word "irradiation": See "Beef Industry Recommends Irradiation Rule Include Ready-to-Eat Meats," See "Beef Industry Recommends Irradiation Rule Include Ready-to-Eat Meats," Food Labeling News Food Labeling News, June 23, 1999; Rick Lingle, "Food Irradiation Acceleration," Packaging Digest Packaging Digest, July 1, 1999; and Steven F. Grover, "Pasteurized Foods in Your Future?" Food Management Food Management, October 1999. Grover is a vice president of the National Restaurant a.s.sociation.A 1983 investigation by NBC News: For the story of Rudy "Butch" Stanko, see Wayne Slater, "Domestic News," For the story of Rudy "Butch" Stanko, see Wayne Slater, "Domestic News," AP AP, September 19, 1983; "Agriculture to Investigate a Meat Plant in Denver," New York Times New York Times, September 20, 1983; Judy Harrington, "Packing Company, Owner, Guilty of Selling Bad Meat to Government," AP AP, September 15, 1984; and Neal Karlen with Jeff P. Copeland, "A 'Mystery Meat' Scandal," Newsweek Newsweek, September 24, 1984.

219 an eleven-year-old-boy became seriously ill: an eleven-year-old-boy became seriously ill: For the Bauer Meat story, see Patricia Guthrie, "Government Says Bauer Meats Are Unfit to Eat," For the Bauer Meat story, see Patricia Guthrie, "Government Says Bauer Meats Are Unfit to Eat," Atlanta Journal Atlanta Journal, October 14, 1998; "Bauer Meat 'Unfit for Human Consumption,'" Meat Processing Meat Processing, November 1, 1998; "Bacteria Wars: How 3 Processors Responded," St. Petersburg Times St. Petersburg Times, February 14, 1999; Robert Trigaux, "Tougher Standards Battle Meat Bacteria," St. Petersburg Times St. Petersburg Times, February 14, 1999; and "E. Coli Suit Princ.i.p.als Confer; Child's Family Sues Florida Company," Suit Princ.i.p.als Confer; Child's Family Sues Florida Company," Florida Times-Union Florida Times-Union, May 15, 1999.

a dozen children in Finley, Washington: For the Northern States Beef story, see Elliott Jaspin and Scott Montgomery, "Feds Buy Bad Beef for Low Bid; For the Northern States Beef story, see Elliott Jaspin and Scott Montgomery, "Feds Buy Bad Beef for Low Bid; E. coli E. coli Outbreak Results from School Lunch Program Supply System," Outbreak Results from School Lunch Program Supply System," Atlanta Journal Atlanta Journal, March 28, 1999; and "Tainted School Tacos," Seattle Times Seattle Times, May 8, 1999.

219 as much as 47 percent of the company's ground beef: as much as 47 percent of the company's ground beef: See Bill Lodge, "Dallas Beef Plant That Failed See Bill Lodge, "Dallas Beef Plant That Failed Salmonella Salmonella Tests Challenges Screening System," Tests Challenges Screening System," Dallas Morning News Dallas Morning News, December 10, 1999; and Tiara Ellis and Michael Saul, "Dallas Meat Processor Recalls Beef After USDA Detects E. coli E. coli," Dallas Morning News Dallas Morning News, December 26, 1999.

about 1.4 million illnesses: Mead et al., "Food-Related Illness and Death." Mead et al., "Food-Related Illness and Death."the USDA continued to purchase thousands of tons: See Scott Montgomery and Elliot Jaspin, "USDA Purchased Meat from Texas Plant after Contamination Cited," See Scott Montgomery and Elliot Jaspin, "USDA Purchased Meat from Texas Plant after Contamination Cited," Atlanta Journal Atlanta Journal, Decmber 4, 1999.annually providing as much as 45 percent: Cited in "USDA Has a Valid Beef in Dallas," Cited in "USDA Has a Valid Beef in Dallas," Chicago Tribune Chicago Tribune, December 14, 1999.

220 the USDA resumed its purchases: the USDA resumed its purchases: See "USDA Satisfied with Changes in Meat Plant It Tried to Shut Down," See "USDA Satisfied with Changes in Meat Plant It Tried to Shut Down," AP AP, February 15,2000.

Judge Fish issued a decision: For the implications of the Supreme Beef case, see Marc Kaufman, "Texas Ruling Threatens USDA Meat Inspections," For the implications of the Supreme Beef case, see Marc Kaufman, "Texas Ruling Threatens USDA Meat Inspections," Washington Post Washington Post, May 26,2000; Todd Bensman, "Judge Rebuffs USDA; Agency Tried to Close Dallas Plant," Dallas Morning News Dallas Morning News, May 26, 2000; and John Taylor, "Court Ruling Won't Alter IBP Methods," Omaha World-Herald Omaha World-Herald, May 27, 2000.much of the beef used... repeatedly failed USDA tests: See Allison Beers, "Meat Groups Pet.i.tion USDA to Change HACCP Regulations," See Allison Beers, "Meat Groups Pet.i.tion USDA to Change HACCP Regulations," Food Chemical News Food Chemical News, January 10, 2000.

221 The meatpacking industry immediately opposed: The meatpacking industry immediately opposed: See "AMS Says It Will Continue with New Standards," See "AMS Says It Will Continue with New Standards," National Meat a.s.sociation Newsletter National Meat a.s.sociation Newsletter, August 7, 2000.

"You'd be better off eating a carrot stick": Quoted in Usha Lee McFarling, "Homey Kitchens Become Killers Before Our Eyes," Quoted in Usha Lee McFarling, "Homey Kitchens Become Killers Before Our Eyes," Austin American-Statesman Austin American-Statesman, August 12, 1998.sixty to one hundred other mutant E. coli E. coli organisms... Perhaps a third of them cause illnesses: organisms... Perhaps a third of them cause illnesses: Interview with Dr. David Acheson. Interview with Dr. David Acheson.

222 roughly 37,000 Americans suffer: roughly 37,000 Americans suffer: Mead et al., "Food-Related Illness and Death." Mead et al., "Food-Related Illness and Death." A 1997 undercover investigation by KCBS-TV: A 1997 undercover investigation by KCBS-TV: See Richard Martin, "L.A. County Cracks Down on Food-Safety Violators," See Richard Martin, "L.A. County Cracks Down on Food-Safety Violators," Nation's Restaurant News Nation's Restaurant News, December 1, 1997.

three teenage employees at a Burger King: See "Police Say Two Teens Tampered with Food," See "Police Say Two Teens Tampered with Food," AP, AP, May 10, 2000, and "Burger King Employees Charged," May 10, 2000, and "Burger King Employees Charged," AP AP, May 11, 2000.

10. Global Realization Global Realization Few West Germans are familiar with the unusual history of Plauen, though it is abundantly detailed in a number of locally published books. Plauen: auf historischen Postkarten Plauen: auf historischen Postkarten (Plauen, Germany: Plauen Verlag, 1991), by Frank Weiss, uses old postcards to ill.u.s.trate the history of the city during its most prosperous era. (Plauen, Germany: Plauen Verlag, 1991), by Frank Weiss, uses old postcards to ill.u.s.trate the history of the city during its most prosperous era. Plauen: 1933-1945 Plauen: 1933-1945 (Plauen: Vogtlandischer Heimatverlag Neupert, 1995) is an oversized book, full of photographs, that traces the effects of the Great Depression and the rise of the n.a.z.i Party. The Allied bombing of the city is vividly doc.u.mented through before-and-after photographs in (Plauen: Vogtlandischer Heimatverlag Neupert, 1995) is an oversized book, full of photographs, that traces the effects of the Great Depression and the rise of the n.a.z.i Party. The Allied bombing of the city is vividly doc.u.mented through before-and-after photographs in Plauen 1944/1945: Eine Stadt wird zerstort Plauen 1944/1945: Eine Stadt wird zerstort (Plauen: Vogtlandischer Heimatverlag Neupert, 1995), by Rudolf Laser, Joachim Mensdorf, and Johannes Richter. For life near the East German border, I relied on Ingolf Hermann's (Plauen: Vogtlandischer Heimatverlag Neupert, 1995), by Rudolf Laser, Joachim Mensdorf, and Johannes Richter. For life near the East German border, I relied on Ingolf Hermann's Die Deutsch-Deutsch Grenze Die Deutsch-Deutsch Grenze (Plauen: Vogtlandischer Heimatverlag Neupert, 1998). Plauen's 1989 uprising is chronicled in Rolf Schwanitz's (Plauen: Vogtlandischer Heimatverlag Neupert, 1998). Plauen's 1989 uprising is chronicled in Rolf Schwanitz's Zivilcourage: Die friedliche Revolution in Plauen anhand von Stasi-Akten Zivilcourage: Die friedliche Revolution in Plauen anhand von Stasi-Akten (Plauen, Vogtlandischer Heimatverlag Neupert, 1998). (Plauen, Vogtlandischer Heimatverlag Neupert, 1998). Plauen: Ein Rundgang Durch die Stadt Plauen: Ein Rundgang Durch die Stadt (Plauen: Militzke Verlag, 1992) gives a sense of the city after the Wall came down. (Plauen: Militzke Verlag, 1992) gives a sense of the city after the Wall came down.

John Connelly, an a.s.sistant professor of history at the University of California, Berkeley, is one of the few American academics who has both visited and written about postwar Plauen. Professor Connelly shared his recollection of the city with me and sent me the fine article he wrote about its rebellion: "Moment of Revolution: Plauen (Vogtland), October 7, 1989," German Politics & Society German Politics & Society, Summer 1990. Thomas Kuttler, the hero of that uprising, told me how it unfolded and shared his thoughts about its legacy. I am grateful to Cordula Franz for help in arranging interviews in Plauen and to Sybille Unterdoifel for introducing me to The Ranch. Frieder Stephan, the owner of The Ranch, helped me fathom the local youth culture and explained his musical journey from rock to disco to country and western. Christian Pollmann, who helps run a theater company in Plauen, as well as the German Social Union Party, gave me a strong sense of life under Communism and of the hunger for all things American. The photographer Franziska Heinze and journalist Markus Schneider helped me gather information about their home town. Siegfried Pater - filmmaker, environmentalist, and author of Zum Beispiel McDonald's Zum Beispiel McDonald's (Gottingen: Lamuv Verlag, 1994) - described some of McDonald's misbehavior in Germany. Barbara Distil, the curator of the Dachau Museum, spoke to me about the controversy surrounding the local McDonald's. For the history of the camp, I relied on a book that she edited with Ruth Jakusch: (Gottingen: Lamuv Verlag, 1994) - described some of McDonald's misbehavior in Germany. Barbara Distil, the curator of the Dachau Museum, spoke to me about the controversy surrounding the local McDonald's. For the history of the camp, I relied on a book that she edited with Ruth Jakusch: Concentration Camp Dachau 19331945 Concentration Camp Dachau 19331945 (Brussels: Comite International de Dachau, 1978). (Brussels: Comite International de Dachau, 1978).

The Ill.u.s.trated History of Las Vegas (Edison, N.J.: Chartwell Books, 1997), by Bill Yenne, conveys how the city has been radically transformed in recent years. (Edison, N.J.: Chartwell Books, 1997), by Bill Yenne, conveys how the city has been radically transformed in recent years. The Players: The Men Who Made Las Vegas The Players: The Men Who Made Las Vegas (Reno: University of Nevada Press, 1997), edited by Jack Sheehan, provides a good deal of insight into the unique culture that emerged there. Timothy O'Brien's (Reno: University of Nevada Press, 1997), edited by Jack Sheehan, provides a good deal of insight into the unique culture that emerged there. Timothy O'Brien's Bad Bet: The Inside Story of the Glamour, Glitz, and Danger of America's Gambling Industry Bad Bet: The Inside Story of the Glamour, Glitz, and Danger of America's Gambling Industry (New York: Times Business, 1998) explains precisely how the casinos make their money. (New York: Times Business, 1998) explains precisely how the casinos make their money.

Much of my information on obesity comes from articles in Science, the Journal of the American Medical a.s.sociation Journal of the American Medical a.s.sociation, and the New England Journal of Medicine New England Journal of Medicine. The nutritionist Jane Kirby placed many of the claims and counterclaims about diet into a calm and reasonable perspective for me. Greg Critser's "Let Them Eat Fat: The Heavy Truths about American Obesity," Harper's Harper's, March 2000, is a provocative essay on fast food and the poor.

My account of the McLibel trial is based on interviews with the two princ.i.p.als, Helen Steel and Dave Morris, and on the transcripts of the trial (which were available, along with other interesting material, at the anti-McDonald's Web site www. mcspotlight.org). Franny Armstrong - the director of an excellent doc.u.mentary, McLibel: Two Worlds Collide McLibel: Two Worlds Collide - was extremely helpful. John Vidal's book, - was extremely helpful. John Vidal's book, McLibel, McLibel, tells the whole, extraordinary story of the trial. The essays collected in tells the whole, extraordinary story of the trial. The essays collected in Golden Arches East: McDonald's in East Asia Golden Arches East: McDonald's in East Asia (Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 1997), edited by James L. Watson, reveal some of the unpredictable ways in which fast food is now being embraced by other cultures. (Stanford, Calif.: Stanford University Press, 1997), edited by James L. Watson, reveal some of the unpredictable ways in which fast food is now being embraced by other cultures.

Page 226 the city's population roughly tripled: the city's population roughly tripled: See Weiss, See Weiss, Plauen: Postkarten Plauen: Postkarten, pp. 34.

the most millionaires... and the most suicides: Interview with Thomas Kuttler. Also cited in Connelly, "Moment of Revolution." Interview with Thomas Kuttler. Also cited in Connelly, "Moment of Revolution."the highest unemployment rate: In 1933 the unemployment rate in Plauen was 15.6 percent, the highest in Germany. Cited in In 1933 the unemployment rate in Plauen was 15.6 percent, the highest in Germany. Cited in Plauen 19331945 Plauen 19331945, p. 55.

227 More bombs were dropped on Plauen: More bombs were dropped on Plauen: About 63.2 tons of explosives were dropped on each square kilometer of Dresden; about 185.4 tons per square kilometer struck Plauen. Cited in Laser et al., About 63.2 tons of explosives were dropped on each square kilometer of Dresden; about 185.4 tons per square kilometer struck Plauen. Cited in Laser et al., Plauen 1944/1945 Plauen 1944/1945, p. 14.

about 75 percent of Plauen lay in ruins: Kuttler interview. Kuttler interview.lost one-third of its prewar population: Cited in Weiss, Cited in Weiss, Plauen: Postkarten Plauen: Postkarten, p. 4.an "unusually low quality of life": Connelly, "Plauen: Moment of Revolution." Connelly, "Plauen: Moment of Revolution."

228 "We want freedom": "We want freedom": Kuttler interview. Kuttler interview.

229 "McDonald's and similar abnormal garbage-makers": "McDonald's and similar abnormal garbage-makers": Quoted in "Ban the 'Big Mac' from East Germany, Parliamentarian Demands," Quoted in "Ban the 'Big Mac' from East Germany, Parliamentarian Demands," Reuters Reuters, July 26, 1990.

"global realization": Quoted in "Blue Chip Blues," Quoted in "Blue Chip Blues," Economist Economist, September 26, 1998.Within the next decade: See "Some Things Old, Some Things New," See "Some Things Old, Some Things New," Franchising World Franchising World, NovemberDecember 1999.earns the majority of its profits: See "The McDonald's Corporation 1999 Annual Report"; Charlene C. Price, "The U.S. Foodservice Industry Looks Abroad," See "The McDonald's Corporation 1999 Annual Report"; Charlene C. Price, "The U.S. Foodservice Industry Looks Abroad," USDA Food Review USDA Food Review, MayAugust 1996.the most widely recognized brand in the world: See "McDonald's wins top spot in global brand ratings," See "McDonald's wins top spot in global brand ratings," Brand Strategy Brand Strategy, November 22, 1996."McWorld": See Benjamin R. Barber, "Jihad vs. McWorld," See Benjamin R. Barber, "Jihad vs. McWorld," Atlantic Monthly Atlantic Monthly, March 1992.when McDonald's opened its first restaurant in Turkey: See Gulsun Bilgen-Konuray, "Turkey - Franchising Market," See Gulsun Bilgen-Konuray, "Turkey - Franchising Market," Industry Sector a.n.a.lysis Industry Sector a.n.a.lysis, U.S. Foreign and Commercial Service, U.S. State Department, August 24, 1999.

230 "Americana and the promise of modernization": "Americana and the promise of modernization": Watson, Watson, Golden Arches East Golden Arches East, p. 41.

earning $200,000 in a single week during Ramadan: Cited in Bill McDowall, "The Global Market Challenge," Cited in Bill McDowall, "The Global Market Challenge," Restaurants & Inst.i.tutions Restaurants & Inst.i.tutions, November 1, 1994.In Brazil, McDonald's has become: See "McDonald's Employs 33,000 in Brazil," See "McDonald's Employs 33,000 in Brazil," AP AP, August 1, 1999."Sorry, No McDonald's": Quoted in George Lazurus, "You Won't Find a McDonald's on Unspoiled Tahiti," Quoted in George Lazurus, "You Won't Find a McDonald's on Unspoiled Tahiti," Adweek Adweek, January 13, 1986."A McDonald's restaurant is just the window": Quoted in Latha Venkatraman, "Keeping That Lettuce Crisp," Quoted in Latha Venkatraman, "Keeping That Lettuce Crisp," Business Line Business Line, July 5, 1999.

231 "It's a great little country": "It's a great little country": Simplot interview. Simplot interview.

"Kids are the same regarding": Quoted in "Barbie, McDonald's Find Common Ground," Quoted in "Barbie, McDonald's Find Common Ground," Selling to Kids Selling to Kids, September 30, 1998.

231 the number of fast food restaurants roughly tripled: the number of fast food restaurants roughly tripled: Cited in Richard Martin, "Special Report: Down Under's Bloomin' Dining Wonders," Cited in Richard Martin, "Special Report: Down Under's Bloomin' Dining Wonders," Nation's Restaurant News Nation's Restaurant News, October 7, 1996.

Ronald McDonald knew: Cited in Kay M. Hammond, Allan Wylie, and Sally Ca.s.swell, "The Extent and Nature of Televised Food Advertising to New Zealand Children and Adolescents," Cited in Kay M. Hammond, Allan Wylie, and Sally Ca.s.swell, "The Extent and Nature of Televised Food Advertising to New Zealand Children and Adolescents," Australian & New Zealand Journal of Public Health Australian & New Zealand Journal of Public Health, February 1999."funny, gentle, kind": Quoted in Quoted in Golden Arches East Golden Arches East, p. 64.Coca-Cola is now the favorite drink... McDonald's serves their favorite food: Cited in "Developmental, Cultural Issues Key in Marketing to Kids Globally," Cited in "Developmental, Cultural Issues Key in Marketing to Kids Globally," Selling to Kids Selling to Kids, April 1, 1998."If we eat McDonald's hamburgers and potatoes": Quoted in Vidal, Quoted in Vidal, McLibel McLibel, p. 42.In addition to being the McDonald's Corporation's partner in j.a.pan, Den Fujita is the author of best-selling books such as Stupid People Lose Money, How to Become Number One in Business Stupid People Lose Money, How to Become Number One in Business, and How to Blow the Rich Man's Bugle Like the Jews Do How to Blow the Rich Man's Bugle Like the Jews Do. See James Sterngold, "Den Fujita, j.a.pan's Mr. Joint Venture," New York Times New York Times, March 22, 1992.

232 "For a child growing up in the turmoil": "For a child growing up in the turmoil": Christa Maerker, "The Federal Republic of Germany: Second-hand Culture with Borrowed Dreams," Christa Maerker, "The Federal Republic of Germany: Second-hand Culture with Borrowed Dreams," Schatzkammer Schatzkammer, Spring 1990.

Americans with German ancestors: Cited in Tim Bovee, "German-Americans Largest U.S. Ethnic Group," Cited in Tim Bovee, "German-Americans Largest U.S. Ethnic Group," AP AP, December 16, 1992.less than one-third of the German foodservice market: Cited in Rupert Spies and Gretel Weiss, "Is Germany's Traditional Restaurant a Dying Breed?" Cited in Rupert Spies and Gretel Weiss, "Is Germany's Traditional Restaurant a Dying Breed?" Cornell Hotel & Restaurant Administration Quarterly Cornell Hotel & Restaurant Administration Quarterly, June 1998.the biggest restaurant company in Germany: See Richard Martin, "Germany Shows Appet.i.te for 'Fun' Themes and Foreign Flavors," See Richard Martin, "Germany Shows Appet.i.te for 'Fun' Themes and Foreign Flavors," Nation's Restaurant News Nation's Restaurant News, April 17, 1995.

233 It battles labor unions: It battles labor unions: Interview with Siegfried Pater. Interview with Siegfried Pater.

the number of franchised outlets: See "Germany-Franchising Market," See "Germany-Franchising Market," Industry Sector a.n.a.lysis Industry Sector a.n.a.lysis, U.S. Foreign & Commercial Service, U.S. State Department, July 7, 1998."The partnership scheme will undoubtedly be": Quoted in "German Wal-Mart Stores to Feature McDonald's Restaurants," Quoted in "German Wal-Mart Stores to Feature McDonald's Restaurants," Evening Standard Evening Standard, August 12, 1999.The McDonald's Corporation denied: See Steve Nichol, "Protesters Lambaste Mc-Donald's; Picketers Say Restaurant Is Trivializing Holocaust," See Steve Nichol, "Protesters Lambaste Mc-Donald's; Picketers Say Restaurant Is Trivializing Holocaust," Fort Lauderdale Sun-Sentinel Fort Lauderdale Sun-Sentinel, January 28, 1997.After the curator of the Dachau Museum complained: Interview with Barbara Distil. Interview with Barbara Distil."Welcome to Dachau": Ibid. Ibid.The McDonald's at Dachau is one-third of a mile: According to the odometer on my rental car. According to the odometer on my rental car.

234 Las Vegas is the fastest-growing major city: Las Vegas is the fastest-growing major city: See "Metropolitan Area Population Estimates for July 1, 1998, and Population Change for April 1, 1990, to July 1, 1998," U.S. Census Bureau, September 30, 1999. See "Metropolitan Area Population Estimates for July 1, 1998, and Population Change for April 1, 1990, to July 1, 1998," U.S. Census Bureau, September 30, 1999.

235 Over the past twenty years the population: Over the past twenty years the population: In 1980, the population of the Las Vegas metropolitan area was 528,000; today it approaches 1.5 million. See "Large Metropolitan Areas - Population: 1980 to 1996," In 1980, the population of the Las Vegas metropolitan area was 528,000; today it approaches 1.5 million. See "Large Metropolitan Areas - Population: 1980 to 1996," Statistical Abstract of the U.S Statistical Abstract of the U.S., p. 41; "Metropolitan Area Population Estimates... Population Change."

235 legally protected against the workings of the free market: legally protected against the workings of the free market: For a fascinating account of the Nevada Gaming Control Board and its powers, see "A Peculiar Inst.i.tution," by Sergio Lalli, in Sheehan, For a fascinating account of the Nevada Gaming Control Board and its powers, see "A Peculiar Inst.i.tution," by Sergio Lalli, in Sheehan, The Players The Players, pp. 122.

236 about two-thirds of a typical casino's profits... a profit rate of as much as 20 per-cent: about two-thirds of a typical casino's profits... a profit rate of as much as 20 per-cent: See O'Brien, See O'Brien, Bad Bet Bad Bet, pp. 4044.

"Those who hope we shall move": Mikhail Gorbachev, Mikhail Gorbachev, Perestroika: New Thinking for Our Country and the World Perestroika: New Thinking for Our Country and the World (New York: Harper & Row, 1987), p. 36. (New York: Harper & Row, 1987), p. 36.

237 "And the merry clowns": "And the merry clowns": George Cohon, George Cohon, To Russia with Fries To Russia with Fries (Toronto: McClelland & Stewart, 1999), p. xi. (Toronto: McClelland & Stewart, 1999), p. xi.

He reportedly earned $160,000: Cited in Maura Reynolds, "Russians Watch Gorbachev Pizza Ad," Cited in Maura Reynolds, "Russians Watch Gorbachev Pizza Ad," AP AP, December 23, 1997."all my money is gone": The German publication was The German publication was Bunte Bunte. Quoted in James Meek, "How Last Soviet Leader Lost His Roubles," Guardian Guardian (London), December 30, 1998. (London), December 30, 1998.a fee of $150,000 and the use of a private jet: Cited in Margaret c.o.ker, "Siegfried and Gorby?" Cited in Margaret c.o.ker, "Siegfried and Gorby?" Business Week Business Week, February 15, 1999."As if things weren't good enough": The executive was Bob O'Brien, president of NPD Foodservice Information Group. The executive was Bob O'Brien, president of NPD Foodservice Information Group."sensory evaluation specialist": The speaker was Richard Popper, vice president of Peryam & Kroll Marketing Sensory Research. The speaker was Richard Popper, vice president of Peryam & Kroll Marketing Sensory Research.

238 "A growing number of groups": "A growing number of groups": Mr. Nugent's speech, as well as all the others, was recorded by Convention Tapes International, Miami, Florida. Mr. Nugent's speech, as well as all the others, was recorded by Convention Tapes International, Miami, Florida.

240 the highest obesity rate: the highest obesity rate: Cited in Elizabeth Gleick, "Land of the Fat," Cited in Elizabeth Gleick, "Land of the Fat," Time International Edition Time International Edition, October 25, 1999.

More than half of all American adults and about one-quarter of all American children: Cited in James O. Hill and James C. Peters, "Environmental Contributions to the Obesity Epidemic," Cited in James O. Hill and James C. Peters, "Environmental Contributions to the Obesity Epidemic," Science Science, May 29, 1998.The rate of obesity among American adults... among American children: See Gary Taubes, "Demographics: As Obesity Rates Rise, Experts Struggle to Explain Why," See Gary Taubes, "Demographics: As Obesity Rates Rise, Experts Struggle to Explain Why," Science Science, May 29, 1998."We've got the fattest, least fit": Quoted in Maggie Fox, "U.S.: Obesity Will Be Hard to Treat, Experts Say," Quoted in Maggie Fox, "U.S.: Obesity Will Be Hard to Treat, Experts Say," AAP Newsfeed, AAP Newsfeed, May 29, 1998. May 29, 1998.about 44 million American adults are obese... 6 million are "super-obese": The adult population of the United States is about 200 million. Twenty-two percent of the nation's adults are obese and 3 percent are super-obese. See Jeffrey P. Koplon and William H. Dietz, "Caloric Imbalance and Public Health Policy," The adult population of the United States is about 200 million. Twenty-two percent of the nation's adults are obese and 3 percent are super-obese. See Jeffrey P. Koplon and William H. Dietz, "Caloric Imbalance and Public Health Policy," Journal of the American Medical Society Journal of the American Medical Society, October 27, 1999; "Resident Population Projections, by Age and s.e.x," Statistical Abstract Statistical Abstract, p. 17.A recent study: Ali H. Mokdad, Mary K. Serdula, William H. Dietz, Barbara A. Bowman, James S. Marks, Jeffrey P. Koplon, "The Spread of the Obesity Epidemic in the United States, 19911998," Ali H. Mokdad, Mary K. Serdula, William H. Dietz, Barbara A. Bowman, James S. Marks, Jeffrey P. Koplon, "The Spread of the Obesity Epidemic in the United States, 19911998," Journal of the American Medical a.s.sociation Journal of the American Medical a.s.sociation, October 27, 1999.when people eat more and move less: See Hill and Peters, "Environmental Contributions"; Eric Ravussian and Elliot Danforth, Jr., "Human Physiology: Beyond Sloth - Physical Activity and Weight Gain," See Hill and Peters, "Environmental Contributions"; Eric Ravussian and Elliot Danforth, Jr., "Human Physiology: Beyond Sloth - Physical Activity and Weight Gain," Science Science, January 8, 1999.

241 per capita consumption of carbonated soft drinks: per capita consumption of carbonated soft drinks: Cited in Jacobson, "Liquid Candy." Cited in Jacobson, "Liquid Candy."

During the late 1950s the typical soft drink order: Cited in Judy Putnam, "U.S. Food Supply Providing More Food and Calories," Cited in Judy Putnam, "U.S. Food Supply Providing More Food and Calories," USDA Food Review USDA Food Review, October 1, 1999.more fat than ten of the chain's milk shakes: See "Nutritional Information," CKE Restaurants. See "Nutritional Information," CKE Restaurants."Consumers savor the flavor": Kate MacArthur, "Fast Feeders Find Sizzle by Bringing on the Bacon," Kate MacArthur, "Fast Feeders Find Sizzle by Bringing on the Bacon," Advertising Age Advertising Age, March 27, 2000. See also Michael Pearson, "Lower Production, Higher Demand for Fast Food Bacon Restores Profitability to Hog Farming," AP AP, April 20, 2000.A decade ago, restaurants sold about 20 percent: Ibid. Ibid.second only to smoking: See Koplon and Dietz, "Caloric Imbalance." See Koplon and Dietz, "Caloric Imbalance."about 280,000 Americans die every year: Cited in Joyce Howard Price, "Fat Chance: The Goverment's War on Obesity," Cited in Joyce Howard Price, "Fat Chance: The Goverment's War on Obesity," Washington Post Washington Post, January 30, 2000.

242 now approach $240 billion: now approach $240 billion: See Maggie Fox, "Obesity Costs U.S. $238 Billion a Year - Survey," See Maggie Fox, "Obesity Costs U.S. $238 Billion a Year - Survey," Reuters Reuters, September 15, 1999.

$33 billion on various weight-loss schemes: Cited in Robert Jablon, "Studies Show Obesity on Rise in U.S.," Cited in Robert Jablon, "Studies Show Obesity on Rise in U.S.," AP, AP, October 26, 1999. October 26, 1999.Obesity has been linked to: See William C. Willett, William H. Dietz, and Graham A. Colditz, "Guidelines for Healthy Weight," See William C. Willett, William H. Dietz, and Graham A. Colditz, "Guidelines for Healthy Weight," New England Journal of Medicine New England Journal of Medicine, August 5, 1999; Aviva Must, Jennifer Spadano, Eugenie H. Coakley, Allison E. Field, Graham Colditz, and William H. Dietz, "The Disease Burden a.s.sociated with Overweight and Obesity," Journal of the American Medical a.s.sociation Journal of the American Medical a.s.sociation, October 27, 1999.A 1999 study by the American Cancer Society: See Katherine Webster, "Study: Obesity Can Shorten Lifespan," See Katherine Webster, "Study: Obesity Can Shorten Lifespan," AP AP, October 6, 1999."The message is we're too fat": The researcher is Eugenia Calle, quoted ibid. The researcher is Eugenia Calle, quoted ibid.Severely obese American children: See Dennis Michael Styne, "Childhood Obesity: Time for Action, Not Complacency," See Dennis Michael Styne, "Childhood Obesity: Time for Action, Not Complacency," American Family Physician American Family Physician, February 15, 1999.the number of fast food restaurants in Great Britain: Cited in Gleick, "Land of the Fat." Cited in Gleick, "Land of the Fat."and so did the obesity rate among adults: Cited in Gary Taubes, "Demographics: Weight Increases Worldwide?" Cited in Gary Taubes, "Demographics: Weight Increases Worldwide?" Science Science, May 29, 1998The British now eat more fast food: Cited in Kate Watson Smyth, "Britons Eating 7M Pounds of Fast Food Every Day," Cited in Kate Watson Smyth, "Britons Eating 7M Pounds of Fast Food Every Day," Independent Independent, May 13, 1999.They also have the highest obesity rate: Cited in Gleick, "Land of the Fat." Cited in Gleick, "Land of the Fat."less of a problem in Italy and Spain: Ibid. Ibid.where spending on fast food is relatively low: See Smyth, "Britons Eating 7M Pounds"; "Fast Food Is Taking Over the World," See Smyth, "Britons Eating 7M Pounds"; "Fast Food Is Taking Over the World," USA Today Magazine USA Today Magazine, May 1, 1999; Dita Smith, "What on Earth? Fast-Food Feast," Washington Post Washington Post, May 27, 2000.In China, the proportion of overweight teenagers: Cited in Simon Pollock, "China's Biggest 'Little Emperors' Struggle to Tone Up," Cited in Simon Pollock, "China's Biggest 'Little Emperors' Struggle to Tone Up," j.a.pan Economic Newswire j.a.pan Economic Newswire, August 18, 1999.In j.a.pan, eating hamburgers: For a good account of how eating habits were transformed in j.a.pan, see Mark Hammond and Jacqueline Ruyak, "The Decline of the j.a.panese Diet: MacArthur to McDonald's," For a good account of how eating habits were transformed in j.a.pan, see Mark Hammond and Jacqueline Ruyak, "The Decline of the j.a.panese Diet: MacArthur to McDonald's," East West East West, October 1990.

242 the sale of fast food in j.a.pan more than doubled: the sale of fast food in j.a.pan more than doubled: Ibid. Ibid.

the rate of obesity among children: The statistic comes from the j.a.panese Education Ministry. Cited in "Western Fast Food Is Blamed for Overweight Children," The statistic comes from the j.a.panese Education Ministry. Cited in "Western Fast Food Is Blamed for Overweight Children," Food Labeling News Food Labeling News, May 13, 1998.about one-third of all j.a.panese men in their thirties: See Joseph Coleman, "More j.a.panese Men Are Overweight," See Joseph Coleman, "More j.a.panese Men Are Overweight," AP AP, June 15, 1998; "Time to Trim the Fat of the Land," j.a.pan Times j.a.pan Times, November 14, 1999.

243 a study of middle-aged j.a.panese men: a study of middle-aged j.a.panese men: The Ni-Hon-San Study is described in Hammond and Ruyack, "MacArthur to McDonald." See also Jeanette G. Kernicki, "A Multicultural Perspective on Cardiovascular Disease," The Ni-Hon-San Study is described in Hammond and Ruyack, "MacArthur to McDonald." See also Jeanette G. Kernicki, "A Multicultural Perspective on Cardiovascular Disease," Journal of Cardiovascular Nurses Journal of Cardiovascular Nurses, July 1997.

American children now get about one-quarter: Cited in Janet McConnaughey, "Chips, Fries Big Part of Kids' Diet," Cited in Janet McConnaughey, "Chips, Fries Big Part of Kids' Diet," AP AP, September 5, 1999.A survey of children's advertising: See "A Spoonful of Sugar - Television Food Advertising Aimed at Children: An International Comparative Survey," Consumers International, London, November 1996; "Advertising to Children: UK the Worst in Europe," See "A Spoonful of Sugar - Television Food Advertising Aimed at Children: An International Comparative Survey," Consumers International, London, November 1996; "Advertising to Children: UK the Worst in Europe," Food Magazine Food Magazine, January/March 1997."Resist America beginning with Cola": Quoted in Philip F. Zeidman, "Globalization: A Hard Pill to Swallow?" Quoted in Philip F. Zeidman, "Globalization: A Hard Pill to Swallow?" Franchising World Franchising World, July/August 1999."Maybe they think it's Italian": Quoted in "U.S. Companies in China Keeping Low Profile," Quoted in "U.S. Companies in China Keeping Low Profile," Colorado Springs Gazette Colorado Springs Gazette, May 11,1999."lousy food": The French phrase for what Bove scorns is "la mal-bouffe." See Sophie Meunier, "The French Exception," The French phrase for what Bove scorns is "la mal-bouffe." See Sophie Meunier, "The French Exception," Foreign Affairs Foreign Affairs, August 2000.

244 largest purchaser of agricultural commodities in France: largest purchaser of agricultural commodities in France: Cited in Carla Power, "McParadox," Cited in Carla Power, "McParadox," Newsweek International Newsweek International, July 10, 2000.

"servile slaves at the service of agribusiness": Quoted in John Lloyd, "The Trial of Jose Bove," Quoted in John Lloyd, "The Trial of Jose Bove," Financial Times Financial Times, July 1, 2000."Non a McMerde": Quoted in John Lichfield, "St. Jose Makes His Stand Against the Chicken 'McMerde,'" Quoted in John Lichfield, "St. Jose Makes His Stand Against the Chicken 'McMerde,'" Independent Independent, July 1,2000."epitomises everything we despise": Quoted in Christopher Dunkley, "The Greens Take a Bite at Big Mac," Quoted in Christopher Dunkley, "The Greens Take a Bite at Big Mac," Financial Times Financial Times, May 17, 1997.

245 "What's Wrong with McDonald's?": "What's Wrong with McDonald's?": See "What's Wrong with McDonald's? Everything They Don't Want You to Know," London Greenpeace, 1986. See "What's Wrong with McDonald's? Everything They Don't Want You to Know," London Greenpeace, 1986.

246 McDonald's threatened to sue at least fifty: McDonald's threatened to sue at least fifty: See Vidal, See Vidal, McLibel McLibel, pp. 4647.

about $18 billion: "McDonald's History Listing," McDonald's Corporation, 1996. "McDonald's History Listing," McDonald's Corporation, 1996.the court record included 40,000 pages of doc.u.ments: Cited in Colleen Graffy, "Big Mac Bited Back," Cited in Colleen Graffy, "Big Mac Bited Back," American Bar a.s.sociation Journal American Bar a.s.sociation Journal, August 1997.

247 McDonald's did "exploit" children: McDonald's did "exploit" children: Quoted in d.i.c.k Beveridge, "McDonald's Wins Marathon Libel Case, but Loses Publicity Battle," Quoted in d.i.c.k Beveridge, "McDonald's Wins Marathon Libel Case, but Loses Publicity Battle," AP AP, June 19, 1997.

"McDonald's don't deserve a penny": Quoted ibid. Quoted ibid.

248 During the trial, Sidney Nicholson... officers belonging to Special Branch: During the trial, Sidney Nicholson... officers belonging to Special Branch: See testimony of Sidney Nicholson, See testimony of Sidney Nicholson, McDonald's, McDonald's Restaurants, Ltd., v Helen Steel, David Morris McDonald's, McDonald's Restaurants, Ltd., v Helen Steel, David Morris, Day 249, May 14, 1996, pp. 3238.

"At no time did I believe they were dangerous": Quoted in "Interview: McDonald's Spy Fran Tiller on Infiltration and Subterfuge, Big Mac Style," Quoted in "Interview: McDonald's Spy Fran Tiller on Infiltration and Subterfuge, Big Mac Style," www.McSpotlight.org.

248 For Dave Morris, perhaps the most disturbing moment: For Dave Morris, perhaps the most disturbing moment: Interview with Dave Morris. Interview with Dave Morris.

249 some of the similarities between Dave Morris and Ray Kroc: See Vidal, McLibel some of the similarities between Dave Morris and Ray Kroc: See Vidal, McLibel, pp 5862.

"Fitting into a finely working machine": Quoted in Nick Hasell, "McDonald's Long March," Quoted in Nick Hasell, "McDonald's Long March," Management Today Management Today, September 1994.

250 Plauen has lost about 10 percent of its population: Plauen has lost about 10 percent of its population: Interview with Markus Schneider. Interview with Markus Schneider.

251 Plauen's unemployment rate is about 20 percent: Plauen's unemployment rate is about 20 percent: Ibid. Ibid.

"It was dumb luck": Quoted in Roger Thurow, "For East German Pair, McDonald's Serves Up an Economic Parable," Quoted in Roger Thurow, "For East German Pair, McDonald's Serves Up an Economic Parable," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, November 8, 1999.a third of the young people in eastern Germany: Cited in Leonard Ziskin, "Fa and Antifa in the Fatherland," Cited in Leonard Ziskin, "Fa and Antifa in the Fatherland," Nation Nation, October 5,1998.

Epilogue: Have It Your Way My views on how to restructure the nation's food safety system were influenced by a recent report by the National Academy of Science's Inst.i.tute of Medicine. Ensuring Safe Food: From Production to Consumption Ensuring Safe Food: From Production to Consumption (Washington, D.C.: National Academy Press, 1998) contains many reasonable recommendations that should not be - as so much of the previous food safety advice from National Academy of Sciences has been ignored. Dale Lasater was a gracious host during many of my visits to Colorado. His ranch is a national treasure. The family's role in the southwestern cattle industry is eloquently described in Dale Lasater's (Washington, D.C.: National Academy Press, 1998) contains many reasonable recommendations that should not be - as so much of the previous food safety advice from National Academy of Sciences has been ignored. Dale Lasater was a gracious host during many of my visits to Colorado. His ranch is a national treasure. The family's role in the southwestern cattle industry is eloquently described in Dale Lasater's Falfurrias: Ed C. Lasater and the Development of South Texas Falfurrias: Ed C. Lasater and the Development of South Texas (College Station: Texas A&M University Press, 1985). Laurence M. Lasater's (College Station: Texas A&M University Press, 1985). Laurence M. Lasater's The Lasater Philosophy of Cattle Raising The Lasater Philosophy of Cattle Raising (El Paso: Texas Western Press, 1972) outlines a holistic system of range management that treats both the animals and the land with respect. (El Paso: Texas Western Press, 1972) outlines a holistic system of range management that treats both the animals and the land with respect. The Shortgra.s.s Prairie The Shortgra.s.s Prairie (Boulder, Colo.: Pruett Publishing, 1988), by Ruth Carol Cushman and Stephan R. Jones, conveys through text and photographs the beauty of an American landscape that is largely unappreciated. (Boulder, Colo.: Pruett Publishing, 1988), by Ruth Carol Cushman and Stephan R. Jones, conveys through text and photographs the beauty of an American landscape that is largely unappreciated.

I am grateful to the Conway family, who allowed me to poke around their restaurants and hang out in the kitchens. The last hamburger I ate was served at the Conway's Red Top on South Nevada in Colorado Springs. It was as good as it gets.

Page 255 "Nature is smart as h.e.l.l": "Nature is smart as h.e.l.l": Interview with Dale Lasater. Interview with Dale Lasater.

257 Recent findings that gra.s.s-fed cattle: Recent findings that gra.s.s-fed cattle: See Francisco Diez Gonzalez, Todd R. Callaway, Menas G. Kizoulis, and James B. Russell, "Grain Feeding and the Dissemination of Acid-Resistant See Francisco Diez Gonzalez, Todd R. Callaway, Menas G. Kizoulis, and James B. Russell, "Grain Feeding and the Dissemination of Acid-Resistant Escherichia coli Escherichia coli from Cattle," from Cattle," Science Science, September 11, 1998.

259 one of America's most profitable fast food chains: one of America's most profitable fast food chains: It is difficult to gauge In-N-Out's financial details because the company is privately owned. Nevertheless, a decade ago the financial a.n.a.lyst Robert L. Emerson speculated that "In-N-Out enjoys the highest level of return on invested capital in the fast-food industry." See Emerson, It is difficult to gauge In-N-Out's financial details because the company is privately owned. Nevertheless, a decade ago the financial a.n.a.lyst Robert L. Emerson speculated that "In-N-Out enjoys the highest level of return on invested capital in the fast-food industry." See Emerson, Economics of Fast Food Economics of Fast Food, p. 94.

259 generating more than $150 million in annual revenues: generating more than $150 million in annual revenues: The estimate of $150 milion comes from a recent The estimate of $150 milion comes from a recent Los Angeles Times Los Angeles Times article on the chain and its future after Esther Snyder. The actual figure may be as much as two times higher; in 1990 Emerson claimed that individual In-N-Out restaurants had annual revenues of $1.7 million. See Greg Hernandez, "Family-Owned In-N-Out at Crossroads," article on the chain and its future after Esther Snyder. The actual figure may be as much as two times higher; in 1990 Emerson claimed that individual In-N-Out restaurants had annual revenues of $1.7 million. See Greg Hernandez, "Family-Owned In-N-Out at Crossroads," Los Angeles Times Los Angeles Times, July 2, 2000; Emerson, Economics of Fast Food Economics of Fast Food, p. 93.

The starting wage of a part-time worker: Representatives of In-N-Out declined my requests for an interview, citing the Snyder family's wariness of the press. The information on the chain's wages and food preparation techniques come from the In-N-Out Web site and from the following articles: Greg Johnson, "More Than Fare: A Simple Menu, Customer Service, and a Familial Touch Prove to Be a Recipe That Is Working for In-N-Out," Representatives of In-N-Out declined my requests for an interview, citing the Snyder family's wariness of the press. The information on the chain's wages and food preparation techniques come from the In-N-Out Web site and from the following articles: Greg Johnson, "More Than Fare: A Simple Menu, Customer Service, and a Familial Touch Prove to Be a Recipe That Is Working for In-N-Out," Los Angeles Times Los Angeles Times, August 15, 1997; Deborah Silver, "Burger Worship: In-N-Out - the Small Fast Food Chain with the Big Following," Restaurants and Inst.i.tutions Restaurants and Inst.i.tutions, November 1, 1999; Hernandez, "Family-Owned In-N-Out at a Crossroads."

260 In-N-Out ranked first: In-N-Out ranked first: See Deborah Silver, "Primary Choices," See Deborah Silver, "Primary Choices," Restaurants and Inst.i.tutions Restaurants and Inst.i.tutions, March 1, 2000.

the lowest-quality food of any major hamburger chain: Ibid. Ibid.

262 "advertising directed at children": "advertising directed at children": Quoted in Harry Berkowitz, "Pediatricians Want Check on Kids' Ads," Quoted in Harry Berkowitz, "Pediatricians Want Check on Kids' Ads," Newsday Newsday, February 9, 1995. See also "Policy Statement: Children, Adolescents, and Television," American Academy of Pediatrics, October 1995.

more than 90 percent of the children in the United States: Cited in Rod Taylor, "The Beanie Factor," Cited in Rod Taylor, "The Beanie Factor," Brandweek Brandweek, June 16, 1997 263 safest food supply in the world: safest food supply in the world: The National Academy of Science's Committee to Insure Safe Food from Production to Consumption recently found "little evidence to either support or contradict that a.s.sertion." The committee's reluctance to pa.s.s judgment was based on the unreliable reporting system for foodborne illness in the United States. The panel did not compare the American food safety system with systems in Western Europe. See The National Academy of Science's Committee to Insure Safe Food from Production to Consumption recently found "little evidence to either support or contradict that a.s.sertion." The committee's reluctance to pa.s.s judgment was based on the unreliable reporting system for foodborne illness in the United States. The panel did not compare the American food safety system with systems in Western Europe. See Ensuring Safe Food Ensuring Safe Food, p. 25.

about 0.1 percent of Swedish cattle: Cited in "Swedish Cited in "Swedish Salmonella Salmonella Control Programmes for Live Animals, Eggs and Meat," National Veterinary Inst.i.tute, Swedish Board of Agriculture, National Food Administration, January 16, 1995. Control Programmes for Live Animals, Eggs and Meat," National Veterinary Inst.i.tute, Swedish Board of Agriculture, National Food Administration, January 16, 1995.lower than the rate in the United States: At the time, roughly 7.5 percent of American ground beef contained At the time, roughly 7.5 percent of American ground beef contained Salmonella Salmonella. Cited in "Nationwide Federal Plant Raw Ground Beef Microbiological Survey, August 1993-March 1994," United States Deartment of Agriculture, Food Safety and Inspection Service, Science and Technology, Microbiology Division, April 1996.The Netherlands began to test ground beef: Interview with Steven Bjerklie. Interview with Steven Bjerklie.a dozen federal agencies: Cited in Cited in Ensuring Safe Food Ensuring Safe Food, p. 26.if a pizza has pepperoni on it: Ibid., p. 27. Ibid., p. 27.

264 Eggs are regulated by the FDA: Eggs are regulated by the FDA: This example of bureaucratic folly was cited by Carol Tucker Foreman, a prominent food safety advocate, during recent testimony before Congress. For an excellent critique of our current food safety sys-tem and some rational proposals for reform, see Prepared Statement of Carol Tucker Foreman, Director of Food Policy Inst.i.tute, before the Senate Governmental Affairs Committee, Oversight of Government Management, Restructuring, and the District of Columbia Subcommittee, August 4, 1999. This example of bureaucratic folly was cited by Carol Tucker Foreman, a prominent food safety advocate, during recent testimony before Congress. For an excellent critique of our current food safety sys-tem and some rational proposals for reform, see Prepared Statement of Carol Tucker Foreman, Director of Food Policy Inst.i.tute, before the Senate Governmental Affairs Committee, Oversight of Government Management, Restructuring, and the District of Columbia Subcommittee, August 4, 1999.

264 more than 500,000 people become ill: more than 500,000 people become ill: Ibid. Ibid.

on average, once every ten years: Cited in Cited in Ensuring Safe Food Ensuring Safe Food, p. 87.roughly 200,000 fast food restaurants: Cited in "Top 100 Share of Restaurant Industry Units by Menu Category," Technomic Top 100, Technomic Information Services, 2000. Cited in "Top 100 Share of Restaurant Industry Units by Menu Category," Technomic Top 100, Technomic Information Services, 2000.They said IBP slowed down the line: In 1996, an official at the U.S. Meat Export Federation recommended slowing down the line speeds at American plants on export days in order to improve the "hygiene." See Keith Nunes, "Att.i.tude Adjustment: U.S. Beef and Pork Exporters Need to Develop an 'Export Mentality,'" In 1996, an official at the U.S. Meat Export Federation recommended slowing down the line speeds at American plants on export days in order to improve the "hygiene." See Keith Nunes, "Att.i.tude Adjustment: U.S. Beef and Pork Exporters Need to Develop an 'Export Mentality,'" Meat & Poultry Meat & Poultry, March 1996.the maximum OSHA fine: See See OSHA Field Inspection Reference Manual OSHA Field Inspection Reference Manual, Section 8 - Chapter IV, C.2.M.

266 "I do not believe": "I do not believe": Quoted in Rudolph J. R. Peritz, Quoted in Rudolph J. R. Peritz, Compet.i.tion Policy in America, 18881992: History, Rhetoric, Law Compet.i.tion Policy in America, 18881992: History, Rhetoric, Law (New York: Oxford University Press, 1996), p. 15. (New York: Oxford University Press, 1996), p. 15.

"veggie libel laws" backed by agribusiness: See Ann Hawk, "Veggie Disparagement: Laws in 13 States Prompt Fears Activists and Journalists Will Be Stifled," See Ann Hawk, "Veggie Disparagement: Laws in 13 States Prompt Fears Activists and Journalists Will Be Stifled," The Quill The Quill, September 1998; Ronald K. L. Collins and Paul McMasters, "Veggie Libel Laws Still Out to Muzzle Free Speech," Texas Lawyer Texas Lawyer, March 30, 1998.

267 "Grow or die": "Grow or die": Quoted in Richard Gibson, "Beef Stakes: How Bill Foley Built a Fast Food Empire on Ailing Also-Rans," Quoted in Richard Gibson, "Beef Stakes: How Bill Foley Built a Fast Food Empire on Ailing Also-Rans," Wall Street Journal Wall Street Journal, December 2, 1998.

268 environmentalists criticized the chain: environmentalists criticized the chain: For the story behind the "greening" of Mc-Donald's, see Sharon M. Livesey, "McDonald's and the Environmental Defense Fund: A Case Study of a Green Alliance," For the story behind the "greening" of Mc-Donald's, see Sharon M. Livesey, "McDonald's and the Environmental Defense Fund: A Case Study of a Green Alliance," Journal of Business Communications Journal of Business Communications, January 1999.