Explorations in Australia Part 17

2nd.

Early this morning went with Pierre to look for water, while my brother and Windich went on the same errand. We followed up the brook about south for seven miles, when we left it and followed another branch about South-South-East, ascending which, Pierre drew my attention to swarms of birds, parroquets, etc., about half a mile ahead. We hastened on, and to our delight found one of the best springs in the colony. It ran down the gully for twenty chains, and is as clear and fresh as possible, while the supply is unlimited. Overjoyed at our good fortune, we hastened back, and, finding that my brother and Windich had not returned, packed up and shifted over to the springs, leaving a note telling them the good news.

After reaching the springs we were soon joined by them. They had only found sufficient water to give their own horses a drink; they also rejoiced to find so fine a spot. Named the springs the Weld Springs, after his Excellency Governor Weld, who has always taken such great interest in exploration, and without whose influence and a.s.sistance this expedition would not have been organized. There is splendid feed all around. I intend giving the horses a week's rest here, as they are much in want of it, and are getting very poor and tired. Barometer 28.24; thermometer 71 degrees at 5 p.m. Shot a kangaroo.

3rd.

Rested at Weld Springs. Light rain this morning. The horses doing well, and will improve very fast. Towards evening the weather cleared, which I was sorry for, as good rains are what we are much in need of. Did some shoeing. Barometer 28.13; thermometer 61 degrees at 5 p.m.

4th.

Barometer 28.16; thermometer 53 degrees at 8 a.m. Rested at Weld Springs.

Shod some of the horses. Repairing saddles. Rating chronometer. Windich shot an emu. Horses doing first-rate, and fast improving.

5th.

Barometer 28.28; thermometer 53 degrees at 6 p.m. Rested at Weld Springs.

Shoeing and saddle-stuffing. Ten emus came to water; shot twice with rifle at them, but missed. Rated chronometer.

6th.

Rested at Weld Springs. Took three sets of lunars. Pierre shot a kangaroo. Marked a tree F 46 on the east side of the spring at our bivouac, which is in lat.i.tude 25 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds South, longitude about 121 degrees 21 minutes East. Mended saddles. Horses much improved, and some of them getting very fresh.

7th (Sunday).

Pierre shot an emu, and the others shot several pigeons. This is a splendid spot; emus and kangaroos numerous, pigeons and birds innumerable, literally covering the entire surface all round the place in the evenings. We have been living on game ever since we have been here.

Intend taking a flying trip to-morrow; party to follow on our tracks on Tuesday. Read Divine Service. Barometer 28.38; thermometer 55 degrees at 7 p.m.

8th.

Started with Tommy Pierre to explore the country East-North-East for water, leaving instructions for my brother to follow after us to-morrow with the party. We travelled generally East-North-East for twenty miles over spinifex and undulating sand-hills, without seeing any water. We turned east for ten miles to a range, which we found to be covered with spinifex. Everywhere nothing else was to be seen; no feed, dest.i.tute of water; while a few small gullies ran out of the low range, but all were dry. Another range about twenty-four miles distant was the extent of our view, to which we bore. At twenty miles, over red sandy hills covered with spinifex and of the most miserable nature, we came to a narrow samphire flat, following which south for two miles, we camped without water and scarcely any feed. Our horses were knocked up, having come over heavy ground more than fifty miles. The whole of the country pa.s.sed over to-day is covered with spinifex, and is a barren worthless desert.

BACK TO THE SPRINGS.

9th.

At daybreak continued east about four miles to the range seen yesterday, which we found to be a low stony rise, covered with spinifex. The view was extensive and very gloomy. Far to the north and east, spinifex country, level, and no appearance of hills or water-courses. To the south were seen a few low ranges, covered also with spinifex; in fact, nothing but spinifex in sight, and no chance of water. Therefore I was obliged to turn back, as our horses were done up. Travelling south for five miles, we then turned West-North-West until we caught our outward tracks, and, following them, we met the party at 3 o'clock, coming on, about twenty miles from the Weld Springs. Our horses were completely done up. We had not had water for thirty-one hours. We all turned back, retreating towards the springs, and continued on till 10 o'clock, when we camped in the spinifex and tied up the horses.

10th.

We travelled on to the springs, which were only about three miles from where we slept last night, and camped. I intend staying here for some time, until I find water ahead or we get some rain. We are very fortunate in having such a good depot, as the feed is very good. We found that about a dozen natives had been to the springs while we were away. They had collected some of the emu feathers, which were lying all about.

Natives appear to be very numerous, and I have no doubt that there are springs in the spinifex or valleys close to it. Barometer 28.08; thermometer 62 degrees at 5.30 p.m.

11th.

Rested at the Weld Springs. Shot an emu; about a dozen came to water. My brother and Windich intend going a flying trip East-South-East in search of water to-morrow. Barometer 28.15; thermometer 60 degrees at 5 p.m.

12th.

My brother and Windich started in search of water; myself and Pierre accompanied them about twelve miles with water to give their horses a drink. About ten o'clock we left them and returned to camp.

FIGHT WITH THE NATIVES.

13th.

About one o'clock Pierre saw a flock of emus coming to water, and went off to get a shot. Kennedy followed with the rifle. I climbed up on a small tree to watch them. I was surprised to hear natives' voices, and, looking towards the hill, I saw from forty to sixty natives running towards the camp, all plumed up and armed with spears and shields. I was cool, and told Sweeney to bring out the revolvers; descended from the tree and got my gun and cooeyed to Pierre and Kennedy, who came running.

By this time they were within sixty yards, and halted. One advanced to meet me and stood twenty yards off; I made friendly signs; he did not appear very hostile. All at once one from behind (probably a chief) came rushing forward, and made many feints to throw spears. He went through many manoeuvres, and gave a signal, when the whole number made a rush towards us, yelling and shouting, with their spears shipped. When within thirty yards I gave the word to fire: we all fired as one man, only one report being heard. I think the natives got a few shots, but they all ran up the hill and there stood, talking and haranguing and appearing very angry. We re-loaded our guns, and got everything ready for a second attack, which I was sure they would make. We were not long left in suspense. They all descended from the hill and came on slowly towards us.

When they were about 150 yards off I fired my rifle, and we saw one of them fall, but he got up again and was a.s.sisted away. On examining the spot we found the ball had cut in two the two spears he was carrying; he also dropped his wommera, which was covered with blood. We could follow the blood-drops for a long way over the stones. I am afraid he got a severe wound. My brother and Windich being away we were short-handed. The natives seem determined to take our lives, and therefore I shall not hesitate to fire on them should they attack us again. I thus decide and write in all humility, considering it a necessity, as the only way of saving our lives. I write this at 4 p.m., just after the occurrence, so that, should anything happen to us, my brother will know how and when it occurred.

5 p.m. The natives appear to have made off. We intend sleeping in the thicket close to camp, and keeping a strict watch, so as to be ready for them should they return to the attack this evening. At 7.30 my brother and Windich returned, and were surprised to hear of our adventure. They had been over fifty miles from camp East-South-East, and had pa.s.sed over some good feeding country, but had not found a drop of water. They and their horses had been over thirty hours without water.

14th (Sunday).

The natives did not return to the attack last night. In looking round camp we found the traces of blood, where one of the natives had been lying down. This must have been the foremost man, who was in the act of throwing his spear, and who urged the others on. Two therefore, at least, are wounded, and will have cause to remember the time they made their murderous attack upon us. We worked all day putting up a stone hut, ten by nine feet, and seven feet high, thatched with boughs. We finished it; it will make us safe at night. Being a very fair hut, it will be a great source of defence. Barometer 28.09; thermometer 68 degrees at 5 p.m. Hope to have rain, as without it we cannot proceed.

15th.

Finished the hut, pugging it at the ends, and making the roof better. Now it is in good order, and we are quite safe from attack at night, should they attempt it again, which I think is doubtful, as they got too warm a reception last time. I intend going with Windich to-morrow easterly in search of water. Barometer 29.09 at 5 p.m.; thermometer 62 degrees.

16th.

Left the Weld Springs with Windich and a pack-horse carrying fourteen gallons of water. Steered South-East for twelve miles over spinifex, after which we got into a gra.s.sy ravine, which we followed along three miles, pa.s.sing some fine clay-holes which would hold plenty of water if it rained. We then turned East-North-East for twelve miles over spinifex, miserable country, when we struck the tracks of my brother and Windich on their return, June 13th. We followed along them South-East for four miles, and then South-East to a bluff range about eighteen miles, which we reached at sundown. Spinifex generally, a few gra.s.sy patches intervening, on which were numbers of kangaroos. We camped close to the bluff, and gave the horses one gallon of water each out of the cans. Just when the pannicans were boiled, heard noises which we thought were natives shouting. We instantly put out the fire and had our supper in the dark, keeping a sharp look-out for two hours, when we were convinced it must have been a native dog, as there were hundreds all round us, barking and howling. The weather is heavy and cloudy, and I hope to get some rain shortly. We slept without any fire, but it was not very cold.

17th.

As the horses did not ramble far, we got off early and followed along and through the ranges East-South-East about, the distance being eighteen miles. Pa.s.sed some splendid clay-pans quite dry. The flats around the ranges are very gra.s.sy, and look promising eastwards, but we cannot find any water. Kangaroos and birds are numerous. Being about seventy miles from camp, we cannot go any farther, or our horses will not carry us back. We therefore turned, keeping to the south of our outward track, and at about eleven miles found some water in some clay-holes, and camped at about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. There is sufficient water to last the party about a week, but not more. The weather is dark and threatening, and I believe there will be rain to-night, which will be a great boon, and will enable us to travel along easily. It is in circ.u.mstances such as I am at present placed that we are sure to implore help and a.s.sistance from the hand of the Creator; but when we have received all we desire, how often we forget to give Him praise!

18th.

Rained lightly last night, and we had a nice shower this morning. Yet did not get very wet, as we had our waterproofs. Fearing that the rain would obliterate the tracks and the party be unable to follow them, I decided to return towards Weld Springs. Therefore followed along our outward track, but found, to our sorrow, that there had been no rain west of our last night's camp. We pushed along and got within eighteen miles of Weld Springs and camped without water, having left the cans behind, thinking we should find plenty of rain-water.

19th.

We had to go about two miles for our horses this morning; after which, we made all haste towards Weld Springs, as I knew the party would be coming on along our tracks to-day. When we were within six miles of the spring we met the party, but, being obliged to take our horses to water, I decided that all should return and make a fresh start to-morrow. The natives had not returned to the attack during our absence, so I conclude they do not intend to interfere with us further. On our way to-day we pa.s.sed some fine rock holes, but all were quite dry. Rain is very much required in this country.

20th.

Started at 9.30 a.m., and steering South-East towards the water found on the 17th for twenty-four miles; thence East-South-East for eight miles, and camped without water on a small patch of feed. The last ten miles was over clear spinifex country of the most wretched description. The country all the way, in fact, is most miserable and intolerable. Barometer 28.50; thermometer 56 degrees at 8 p.m.; lat.i.tude 25 degrees 13 minutes 36 seconds South by meridian alt.i.tude of Arcturus. Left the rum-keg and a pair of farrier's pincers in the stone hut at Weld Springs.

21st (Sunday).

Got an early start, and continued on East-South-East. At about three miles reached a spring on a small patch of feed in the spinifex and camped, but found, after digging it out, that scarcely any water came in.

I have no doubt that it will fill up a good deal in the night; but, our horses being thirsty, I re-saddled and pushed on to the water about sixteen miles ahead, which we reached at 4 p.m. There is not more than a week's supply here, therefore I intend going ahead with Pierre to-morrow in search of more. The country ahead seems promising, but there is a great deal of spinifex almost everywhere. From Weld Spring to our present camp is all spinifex, with the exception of a few flats along short gullies. Lat.i.tude 25 degrees 22 minutes 50 seconds South, longitude about 121 degrees 57 minutes East. Barometer 28.50; thermometer 62 degrees at 5 p.m.

22nd.

Left camp in company with Tommy Pierre, with a pack-horse carrying fifteen gallons of water. Steered South-East for four miles, then east for about eight miles over fine gra.s.sy country, then South-East towards a high range about twenty-five miles distant. After going about three miles, struck a flat trending South-South-East, which we followed down about four miles, pa.s.sing two small clay-holes with water in them; then we struck South-East for four miles, and came to a large brook trending South-East, which we followed along until it lost itself on the plain about six miles. Fine gra.s.sy country all the way, and game abundant.

There were a few gallons of water here and there in the brook, but none large enough to camp at. I then turned east, and at about seven miles reached the hill seen this morning, which I named Mount Moore, after Mr.

W.D. Moore, of Fremantle, a subscriber to the Expedition Fund. Ascending the hill we had an extensive view to the South-West, South, and South-East. Fine gra.s.sy country all round and very little spinifex. To the south about nine miles we saw a lake, and farther off a remarkable red-faced range, which I named Timperley Range, after my friend Mr. W.H.

Timperley, Inspector of Police, from whom I received a great deal of a.s.sistance before leaving Champion Bay. A remarkable peak, with a reddish top, bore South-South-East, which I named Mount Hosken, after Mr. M.

Hosken, of Geraldton, a contributor to the expedition. I made south towards the lake, and at one mile and a half came on to a gully in the gra.s.sy plain, in which we found abundance of water, sufficient to last for months. We therefore camped for the night, with beautiful feed for the horses. I was very thankful to find so much water and such fine gra.s.sy country, for, if we had not found any this trip, we should have been obliged to retreat towards Weld Springs, the water where I left the party being only sufficient to last a few days. The country pa.s.sed over to-day was very gra.s.sy, with only a little spinifex, and it looks promising ahead. Distance from camp about thirty-five miles.

LAKE AUGUSTA.

23rd.

Steering south for about eight miles, we reached the lake, which I named Lake Augusta. The water is salt, and about five miles in circ.u.mference.

Gra.s.sy country in the flat; red sand-hills along the sh.o.r.e. It appeared deep, and swarmed with ducks and swans. Pierre shot two ducks, after which we pushed on North-East for about twelve miles to a low rocky bluff, which we ascended and got a view of the country ahead--rough broken ranges to the east and south. We continued on east for six miles, when, on approaching a rocky face of a range, we saw some natives on top of it, watching us. Approaching nearer, we heard them haranguing and shouting, and soon afterward came within thirty yards of one who was stooping down, looking intently and amazedly at us. I made friendly signs, but he ran off shouting, and apparently much afraid. He and several others ran up and joined the natives on the cliff summit, and then all made off. We turned, and steering East-North-East for six miles, and then east for about fourteen miles, the last few miles being miserable spinifex country, we camped, with poor feed, amongst some spinifex ranges. A good deal of gra.s.sy country the first part of the day.

Kangaroos very numerous, and emus also. Evidences of the natives being in great numbers.

24th.

Ascended a red-topped peak close to our bivouac and got a view ahead. A salt lake was visible a few miles to the east, towards which we proceeded. Pa.s.sing along samphire flats and over red sand-hills, we got within a mile of the lake. The country close to it not looking promising, I determined to turn our faces westward towards the party. Steering a little south of west for three miles, we struck a large brook trending North-East into the lake, and, following it up a mile, found a fine pool of fresh water, with splendid feed. This is very fortunate, as it is a good place to bring the party to. Elated with our success, we continued on westerly, pa.s.sing some fine rock water-holes, half full of water, and at twenty miles from the pool we found a springy hole, with plenty of water in it, within a few hundred yards of our outward track. We had missed it going out; it is in the centre of a very fine gra.s.sy plain.

Kangaroos and emus numerous, also natives. Giving the horses water, we pushed on for twelve miles and camped on some fine gra.s.sy flats. Every appearance of rain.

ANOTHER NATIVE.

25th.

Having finished all our rations last night, I shot two kangaroos while out for the horses, and brought the hind quarters with us. Continuing westerly for about ten miles, we reached the water, our bivouac on the 22nd. I awaited the arrival of the party, which should reach here this morning. At two o'clock heard gunshots, and saw my brother and Windich walking towards us. Found that they had missed our tracks and were camped about a mile higher up the gully, at some small clay-holes. We got our horses and accompanied them back. Rained this evening more than we have had before.

Very cloudy. Barometer 28.18, but inclined to rise. Everything had gone on well during my absence.

26th.