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Early English Meals and Manners Part 42

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[Footnote 214: Mead, a pleasant Drink made of Honey and Water.

Phillips.]

[Footnote 215: A recipe for Musculs in Sewe and Cadel of Musculs to Potage, at p. 445 _H. Ord._ Others 'For mustul (? muscul or _Mustela_, the eel-powt, Fr. _Mustelle_, the Powte or Eeele-powte) pie,' and 'For porray of mustuls,' in _Liber Cure_, p. 46-7.]

[Footnote 216: ? a preparation of Muscles, as _Applade_ Ryal (Harl. MS. 279, Recipe Cx.x.xv.) of Apples, _Quinade_, Rec. Cxv of Quinces, _Pynade_ (fol. 27 b.) of Pynotis (a kind of nut); or is it _Meselade_ or _Meslade_, fol. 33, an omelette--'to euery good meslade take a owsand eyroun or mo.' _Herbelade_ (fol. 42 b.) is a liquor of boiled lard and herbs, mixed with dates, currants, and 'Pynez,' strained, sugared, coloured, whipped, & put into 'fayre round cofyns.']

[Footnote 217: _Eschalotte_: f. A Cive or Chiue. _Escurs_, The little sallade hearb called, Ciues, or Chiues. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 218: For to make potage of oysturs, _Liber Cure_, p. 17.

Oysturs in brewette, p. 53.]

[Footnote 219: Seales flesh is counted as hard of digestion, as it is gross of substance, especially being old; wherefore I leave it to Mariners and Sailers, for whose stomacks it is fittest, and who know the best way how to prepare it. _m.u.f.fett_, p. 167.]

[Footnote 220: Cullis (in Cookery) a strained Liquor made of any sort of dress'd Meat, or other things pounded in a Mortar, and pa.s.s'd thro' a Hair-sieve: These Cullises are usually pour'd upon Messes, and into hot Pies, a little before they are serv'd up to Table. Phillips. See also the recipe for making a coleise of a c.o.c.ke or capon, from the _Haven of Health_, in Nares. Fr.

_Coulis_: m. A cullis, or broth of boiled meat strained; fit for a sicke, or weake bodie. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 221: Shrimps are of two sorts, the one crookbacked, the other straitbacked: the first sort is called of Frenchmen _Caramots de la sante_, healthful shrimps; because they recover sick and consumed persons; of all other they are most nimble, witty, and skipping, and of best juice. _m.u.f.fett_, p. 167. In cooking them, he directs them to be "unscaled, to vent the windiness which is in them, being sodden with their scales; whereof l.u.s.t and disposition to venery might arise," p. 168.]

[Footnote 222: See the recipe for "Creme of Almonde Mylk,"

_Household Ordinances_, p. 447.]

[Footnote 223: "Mortrewes of Fysshe," _H. Ord._ p. 469; "Mortrews of fysshe," _L. C. C._ p. 19.]

[Footnote 224: See "Rys Lumbarde," _H. Ord._ p. 438, l. 3, 'and if thow wilt have hit stondynge, take rawe ?olkes of egges,' &c.]

[Footnote 225: See the Recipe at the end of this volume.]

[Footnote 226: 'Let no fish be sodden or eaten without salt, pepper, wine, onions or hot spices; for all fish (compared with flesh) is cold and moist, of little nourishment, engendring watrish and thin blood.' _m.u.f.fett_, p. 146, with a curious continuation. _Hoc Sinapium, An^ce._ mustarde.

Salgia, sirpillum, piper, alia, sal, petrocillum, Ex hiis sit salsa, non est sentencia falsa.

15th cent. Pict. Vocab. in Wright's Voc. p. 267, col. 1.]

[Footnote 227: Spurlings are but broad Sprats, taken chiefly upon our Northern coast; which being drest and pickled as Anchovaes be in Provence, rather surpa.s.s them than come behind them in taste and goodness.... As for Red Sprats and Spurlings, I vouchsafe them not the name of any wholesome nourishment, or rather of no nourishment at all; commending them for nothing, but that they are bawdes to enforce appet.i.te, and serve well the poor mans turn to quench hunger. _m.u.f.fett_, p. 169.]

[Footnote 228: A Whiting, a Merling, Fr. _Merlan_. '_Merling_: A _Stock-fish_, or _Marling_, else _Merling_; in Latine _Marla.n.u.s_ and _Marlangus_.' R. Holme, p. 333, col. 1.]

[Footnote 229: After searching all the Dictionaries and Glossaries I could get hold of in the Museum for this _Torrentyne_, which was the plague of my life for six weeks, I had recourse to Dr Gunther.

He searched Rondelet and Belon in vain for the word, and then suggested ALDROVANDI as the last resource. In the _De Piscibus_, Lib. V., I accordingly found (where he treats of _Trout_), "Scoppa, gra{m}maticus Italus, _Torentinam_ nominat, rectius _Torrentinam_ vocaturus, a torrentibus nimirum: in his n[ominatim]

& riuis montanis abundat." (ed. 1644, c.u.m indice copiosissimo.)]

[Footnote 230: _Whales_ flesh is the hardest of all other, and unusuall to be eaten of our Countrymen, no not when they are very young and tenderest; yet the livers of Whales, Sturgeons, and Dolphins smell like violets, taste most pleasantly being salted, and give competent nourishment, as Cardan writeth. _m.u.f.fett_, p. 173, ed. Bennet, 1655.]

[Footnote 231: See the recipe in _Liber Cure Cocorum_, p. 30; and Felettes in Galentyne, _H. Ord._ p. 433.]

[Footnote 232: Veriuse, or sause made of grapes not full ripe, _Ompharium_. Withals.]

[Footnote 233: Hakes be of the same nature [as Haddocks], resembling a Cod in taste, but a Ling in likeness. _m.u.f.fett_, p. 153.]

[Footnote 234: 'Stocke fysshe, they [the French] have none,' says Palsgrave.]

[Footnote 235: Haddocks are little Cods, of light substance, crumbling flesh, and good nourishment in the Sommer time, especially whilst Venison is in season. _m.u.f.fett_, p. 153.]

[Footnote 236: Keling. R. Holme, xxiv, p. 334, col. 1, has "He beareth Cules a _Cod Fish_ argent. by the name of _Codling_. Of others termed a _Stockfish_, or an _Haberdine_: In the North part of this Kingdome it is called a _Keling_, In the Southerne parts a _Cod_, and in the Westerne parts a _Welwell_."]

[Footnote 237: See the Recipes for 'Pur verde sawce,' _Liber Cure_, p. 27, and 'Vert Sause' (herbs, bread-crumbs, vinegar, pepper, ginger, &c.), _H. Ord._ p. 441. Grene Sause, condimentum harbaceum. Withals. [[There is a herb of an acid taste, the common name for which ... is _green-sauce_ ... not a dozen miles from Stratford-on-Avon. _Notes & Queries_, June 14, 1851, vol. iii. p.

474. "of Persley leaues stamped withe veriuyce, or white wine, is made a _greene sauce_ to eate with roasted meat ... Sauce for Mutton, Veale and Kid, is _greene sauce_, made in Summer with Vineger or Verjuyce, with a few spices, and without Garlicke.

Otherwise with Parsley, white Ginger, and tosted bread with Vineger. In Winter, the same sawces are made with many spices, and little quant.i.ty of Garlicke, and of the best Wine, and with a little Verjuyce, or with Mustard." _Reg. San. Salerni_, p.

67-8.]] ]

[Footnote 238: Ling perhaps looks for great extolling, being counted the beefe of the Sea, and standing every fish day (as a cold supporter) at my Lord Maiors table; yet it is nothing but a long Cod: whereof the greater sised is called Organe Ling, and the other Codling, because it is no longer then a Cod, and yet hath the taste of Ling: _whilst it is new it is called_ GREEN-FISH; when it is salted it is called Ling, perhaps of lying, because the longer it lyeth ... the better it is, waxing in the end as yellow as the gold n.o.ble, at which time they are worth a n.o.ble a piece.

_m.u.f.fett_, p. 154-5.]

[Footnote 239: A brit or turbret, _rhombus_. Withals, 1556. Bret, Brut, or Burt, a Fish of the Turbot-kind. Phillips.]

[Footnote 240: These duties of the Chamberlain, and those of him in the Wardrobe which follow, should be compared with the chapter _De Officio Garcionum_ of "The Boke of Curtasye" ll. 435-520 below. See also the duties and allowances of 'A Chamberlayn for the King.' _H. Ord._ p. 31-2. He has only to see that the men under him do the work mentioned in these pages. See office of Warderobe of Bedds, _H. O._ p. 40; Gromes of Chambyr, x, Pages of Chambre, IIII, _H. O._, p. 41, &c. The arraying and unarraying of Henry VII. were done by the Esquires of the Body, _H. Ord._ p. 118, two of whom lay outside his room.]

[Footnote 241: A short or small coat worn under the long over-coat. _Petycote, tunicula_, P. P., and '.j. _petticote_ of lynen clothe withought slyves,' there cited from Sir J. Fastolfe's Wardrobe, 1459. Archaeol. xxi. 253. _subucula, le, est etiam genus intimae vestis_, a peticote. Withals.]

[Footnote 242: Vamps or _Vampays_, an odd kind of short Hose or Stockings that cover'd the Feet, and came up only to the Ancle, just above the Shooe; the Breeches reaching down to the Calf of the Leg. Whence to graft a new Footing on old Stockings is still call'd _Vamping_. Phillips. Fairholt does not give the word. The Vampeys went outside the sock, I presume, as no mention is made of them with the socks and slippers after the bath, l. 987; but Strutt, and Fairholt after him, have engraved a drawing which shows that the Saxons wore the sock over the stocking, both being within the shoe. 'Vampey of a hose--_auant pied_. Vauntpe of a hose--_uantpie_.' Palsgrave. A.D. 1467, 'fore _vaunpynge_ of a payre for the said Lew vj.d.' p. 396, _Manners & Household Expenses_, 1841.]

[Footnote 242a: ? _perhaps a comma should go after _hed_, and _'his cloak or cape'_ as a side-note. But see _cappe_, p. 65, l. 964._]

[Footnote 243: Henry VII. had a fustian and sheet under his feather bed, over the bed a sheet, then 'the over fustian above,'

and then 'a pane of ermines' like an eider-down quilt. 'A head sheete of raynes' and another of ermines were over the pillows.

After the ceremony of making the bed, all the esquires, ushers, and others present, had bread, ale, and wine, outside the chamber, 'and soe to drinke altogether.' _H. Ord._ p. 122.]

[Footnote 244: A siege house, _sedes excrementorum_. A draught or priuie, _latrina_. Withals.]

[Footnote 245: An a.r.s.e wispe, _penicillum_, -li, vel _anitergium_.

Withals. From a pa.s.sage in William of Malmesbury's autograph _De Gestis Pontific.u.m Anglorum_ it would seem that water was the earlier cleanser.]

[Footnote 246: In the MS. this line was omitted by the copier, and inserted in red under the next line by the corrector, who has underscored all the chief words of the text in red, besides touching up the capital and other letters.]

[Footnote 247: See the 'Warderober,' p. 37, and the 'office of Warderobe of Robes,' in _H. Ord._ p. 39.]

[Footnote 248:

o lord{e} schalle shyft hys gown{e} at ny?t, Syttand on foteshete tyl he be dy?t.

_The Boke of Curtasye_, l. 487-8.]

[Footnote 249: Morter ... a kind of Lamp or Wax-taper. _Mortarium_ (in old Latin records) a Mortar, Taper, or Light set in Churches, to burn over the Graves or Shrines of the Dead. Phillips.]

[Footnote 250: Perchers, the Paris-Candles formerly us'd in England; also the bigger sort of Candles, especially of Wax, which were commonly set upon the Altars. Phil.]

[[Footnote 250a: The nuisance that the number of Dogs must have been may be judged of by the following payments in the Church-Wardens' Accounts of St Margaret's, Westminster, in _Nichols_, p. 34-5.

1625 Item paid to the dog-killer for killing of dogs 0. 9. 8.

1625 Item paid to the dog-killer more for killing 14 dozen and 10 dogs in time of visitacion 1. 9. 8.

1625 Item paid to the dog-killer for killing of 24 dozen of dogs 1. 8.

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