Dress design Part 7

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 43.--Period Henry VIII.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 44.--Cap shapes. Period Henry VIII.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 45.--Variety of shapes and slashing. Henry VIII.]

Long coats were still worn of the shape described at the end of the 15th century, but a short surcoat was the mode, reaching just below the knee, sleeveless, or with the various hanging sleeves of this period, the fronts usually turned back to form a wide collar, either round or square in shape on the shoulder, or at times falling to a deep square at the back.

The sleeves were full in the upper part, tightening to the wrist, sometimes open up to the elbow and laced, or they were pleated into a full round shape at the shoulder. Puffs and slashings increased in these designs, and by 1520 we find the sleeves mostly divided into puffed and slashed forms, which grew to fantastic proportions.

Very short, tight breeches or trunks, with a front flap or codpiece, were decorated to match the body design and colour schemes; they increased in length to the knee, or just below, during this reign, and usually finished in a serrated roll.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XI.--16 Leather Boots and Shoes. Between 1535 and 1860.

1. 1740-1780.

2. 1535-1550.

3. 1680-1700.

4. 1645-1690.

5. 1665-1685.

6. 1690-1710.

7. 1845-1860.

8. 1790-1820.

9. 1665-1670.

10. 1800-1820.

11. 1820-1840.

12. "

13. 1815-1850.

14. 1760-1780.

15. 1650-1670.

16. 1630-1660.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 46.--Footwear, 1510-1540.]

Shoes were of the square form, some very short in front, held on by a strap across the instep, others with fronts to the instep. The corners were often brought out to a point on each side of the toes, and the mode of decorating with slashing and punctures made them very interesting. The sides of these shoes are very low, from to 1 inch, and no heels are seen. A big, round shape was also favoured, which increased in width till a proclamation forbade it exceeding 6 inches.

Chains were still a decorative feature round the neck, and the belt carried a sword and pouch, or, amongst the working cla.s.ses, other necessities.

SIXTEENTH CENTURY. THE REIGNS OF EDWARD VI AND MARY.

FEMALE.

In the reign of Edward VI, which was so short, as also in that of Mary, there was little time to form a real character. These reigns form developing links to the Elizabethan era, so I have taken them in one chapter.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 47.

FIG. 48.

FIG. 49.

Elizabethan modes.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 50.--Costumes, 1554-1568.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 51.--Costumes, 1568-1610.]

With Edward VI the same shaped cap is seen as that of Henry VIII, and with Mary's accession, the head-dress is curved to the head in a like manner, but it now became more of a hat form and took a brim curved in on the brow; this was often worn over the little tight curved cap, or showed the hair waved out at the sides, often netted with gold and pearls. A fall of velvet, silk, or veiling was still retained till the very high ruff or collar came in the Elizabethan days. A small-crowned hat, with a brooch and feather in front, and a full gathered crown came in before Elizabeth's time, when we see many eccentric shapes, such as the tall hat with a feather at the side, and the witch-like hats towards the end of her reign.

The bodice, which became longer in the first reign, still retained the full belled oversleeve or the full puffed sleeve to the end of Mary's reign, also the same square neck shape with curved-up front, now often filled with silk quilted with pearls up to the neck. High-necked dresses set with a small ruff became general in Mary's reign. We also find a tight sleeve gathered in a circular puff at the shoulder or set in a rolled epaulet.

The same shaped skirt of the hooped bell form (sometimes very pleated in Mary's reign) or divided in front to show the underskirt as described under Henry VIII, was worn.

The short square shape and the heavy round shoe is seen in Mary's reign, but fashion then preferred a rather pointed oval shoe, well up the instep with higher sides, decorated with characteristic slashing.

Gloves are seen in many portraits up to this period, but of a plain make minus embroidery, and a circular fan of feathers was carried.

SIXTEENTH CENTURY. THE REIGNS OF EDWARD VI AND MARY. MALE.

With Edward VI and Mary a more refined and sober type of style set in.

The hair was now worn short and combed backwards. The flat hat of the earlier shapes lasted to Elizabeth's reign; becoming smaller in width, with a turned-down, curved brim and a fuller crown encircled with a gold band or set with a feather worn at the right-hand side. A small tight-fitting round hat with a rolled brim and a feather in front is also of this later mode. Through these reigns a small square turned-over collar or a very small ruff set on a high collar came into use, which increased to a larger ruff in Mary's reign. A small ruff was also worn at the wrist, many of these were edged with black-st.i.tch designs. The heavy puffed sleeves became tight and started from a small epaulet or puffed roll; some of these had a small cuff at the wrist or a frill.

Braided designs became very elaborate on a close-fitting, padded, and round-shaped jerkin with a short skirt, which appeared in the first reign, and this skirt was often long enough to fasten just under the codpiece. Short trunks at times worn half-way down the thigh were slashed, banded, and puffed for decoration. No parti-colour was now worn or striped effects on tights, except amongst the soldiers in the reign of Mary. Short capes to the length of the trunks of a plain round form sloping from the shoulders, or a square type with a high square collar and loose sleeves, are seen; a tunic also of the earlier character with a =V=-shaped collar and full sleeve comes into this reign, and we note the earlier types of shoes mingling with the newer pointed oval-shaped shoe which now continued for the remainder of this century.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 52.--Costumes, 1554-1580.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 53.--Costumes, 1570-1605.]

In Mary's reign the round-shaped doublet began to protrude from the breast to the waist in a round form with slightly longer skirts or small tabs, while the trunks a.s.sumed large circular proportions and were sometimes set on tight knee-breeches. The capes remained about the same.

SIXTEENTH CENTURY. ELIZABETH. FEMALE.

The costly splendour of attire is well known in Elizabeth's reign, which began with the same form of hair and head-dress as with Mary, the hat being set rather higher on the hair. The ruffs, which were imported already starched from Holland, a.s.sumed larger proportions and complications when the methods of starching became known in England about 1564. Stow describes ruffs growing to a quarter of a yard deep; these were no doubt supported by piccalilloes, though they are not actually mentioned till after 1600, but they surely came with the fan-shaped structures of these later days. White, red, blue or purple colours were used in the starching, and yellow in the latter days of this century. The introduction of this curved fanlike collar setting became a grand and complicated feature right into the 17th century.

"Make up" became very apparent on the faces at this time, for Bishop Hall censured the fashion in a choice sermon, saying, "Hear this, ye plaster-faced Jezabels! G.o.d will one day wash them with fire and brimstone."

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 54.--Elizabethan modes.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XII.--

(_a_) Lady's Outdoor Costume. 1785-95.

(_b_) Costume. Early 18th Century.

(_c_) Silk Brocade Dress. 1760-80.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 55.

1585-1610 1600-1620 1595-1605 1605-1615 1589-1600]

The bodices grew very long and pointed in the waist, the neck setting being mostly treated in the same =V= shape, even open down to the waist point was filled with a decorated stomacher, and a deep oval-shaped neck was seen at the end of the reign. An outer opened sleeve was now favoured, caught in front at the elbow and hanging to the knee over a fairly tight undersleeve with a turned-back lace cuff or ruffle. With this came the high-set fan ruff on its wooden support at the back of the neck, and consequently a higher coiffure.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 56.

Nos. 1, 2, 3, 1540-50, and other shoe forms worn in the reign of Elizabeth.]