Dress design Part 5

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 18.--Fourteenth century.]

Tights to the waist were worn with both long and short tunics, and retained the crossed binding up the legs to the 13th century, in the various designs of page 53. Parti-coloured tights came in with the 14th century, carrying out the heraldic character of dress, and this may be found till about 1530. A sandal shoe was much worn up to the 12th century, with strappings to various heights up the leg, this even over the short top-boots, but the usual shoe opened down the front of the instep to the toe, which was rather pointed in shape, and it was curved or square at the ankle. The ill.u.s.tration gives a good variety of the prevalent forms. The stocking-boot is also another characteristic of this earlier time, as well as the commoners' woollen gaiters, worn as in Fig. 30, on the seated figure, which were in use to the middle of the 16th century.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 19.--Twelfth and thirteenth centuries.]

In the ill.u.s.trations which show no shoe on the tights, it will be understood that a sole of leather was sewn on to the under part of the foot. This practice is even seen to-day on the Continent, where the clog is mostly in use. A soft boot, reaching to the calf, was worn till the 15th century, with the top folded or trimmed with fur, the latter being generally laced down the front, even to the instep: the shape of these only varied in the length of the pointed toes as the style developed.

The long-pointed shoes began to increase all through the 13th century, and in the 14th century they reached their greatest length, when the points were often tied up to a garter just below the knee. Wooden clogs were much used, and were often considerably raised. Iron circular supports were also in use at the end of this time; these were the foretaste of the eccentric chopins of the 16th century, which were more favoured on the Continent than here. The pointed toes also were made to curl outwards, giving a splay-footed effect, late in the 14th century.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 20.--Fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.]

CHAPTER IV

FIFTEENTH CENTURY. FEMALE.

We have now arrived at the height of eccentric fashion in mediaeval head-dress. The hornlike creations, studded with jewels, and peaks of wondrous height, both draped with fine muslins and often completely shutting away the hair from sight, had a supporting cap which mostly came over ears and cheeks, and a clutch is seen on the forehead, at times concealed by a jewel. The hair was generally allowed to fall loose under the back drape, or a long plait is sometimes seen at the back with the first-named head-dress. The back drape setting from the brow down the back was well conceived to balance the high spire, but it seems to have been discarded during the reign of Edward V, and light veil falls were worn which often came half over the face. In Henry VII's time the extreme fashion came in the shape of a closely-fitting curved cap, with a fall of material over the back. The ermine-trimmed jacket was still in favour to the middle of the last-named reign, when it was worn low down over the hips.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 21.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 22.--Middle of fifteenth century to sixteenth century.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate VII.--

(_a_) Herald's Coat. Embroidered Velvet and Silk. 1st half 17th Century. Measured pattern, page 301.

(_b_) Lady's Bodice of Black Velvet. 1630-60.

_Measurement, see p. 297._ (_c_) Black Silk Jerkin. 1640-60.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 23.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.]

The chief dress of this period had a =V=-shaped collar-front meeting at the waist, mostly made in black material or fur. It was wide on the shoulder, and seems to have been stiffened to set out; the =V= shape was generally filled in with velvet, and a very wide band encircled the waist; a girdle is occasionally noted. The keys' pocket and other requisites were generally carried on the underskirt during these times.

The skirt was full and gathered to the back in a train, the gathers often running into the bodice; a very wide border is prevalent, even to the middle of the thigh. Tight sleeves are usual, and hanging sleeves were worn, mostly set in a very short sleeve, which a.s.sume a puff-shape in Henry VII's reign; long cuffs, almost covering the hand, are seen on many sleeves.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 24.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 25.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate VIII.--(_a_) (_b_) (_c_) Three Suits. Period Charles II.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 26.--End of fifteenth century.]

Modes of opening the skirt up to the hips occasionally showed themselves, and even the sides to the hips are seen laced. In the earlier dress, about 1485, the neck setting of dress became very square, and was filled with fine-drawn lawn. The square shape rises in a curved centre before the end of this period, and a close-fitting robe was worn with a girdle, often opened up the sides. The short upper sleeve and full outer sleeve so much in vogue gave place to a divided upper and lower sleeve, laced or tied with ribbon, with puffs of lawn pulled through the openings at shoulder and elbow, and down the back of the forearm. Slashes are now seen in most sleeves, and an Italianesque character pervaded the fashion.

High, soft boots and shoes of a similar shape to the male description were worn, and changed when the square-toe shoes came in.

Through this period there are many interesting details of costume to study, while gilt tags, finishing laces, and ribbons are to be remarked from this period.

FIFTEENTH CENTURY. MALE.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 27.--Fifteenth century.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 28.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 29.--Middle of fifteenth century.]

The chief shapes to mark in this century in male head-dress is the increased height of the tall hats which rise to vie with the female fashions. We still see a round hat with a rolled edge and long fall over one side, besides shorter folds in the crown, both scalloped or foliated at the edge, and this shape may be noted till about 1460. Some of these hats were made without a crown, as in Fig. 28 (see p. 94); the roll was decorated, as a rule, with jewelled studs. A top hat, something like our present shape, appears, but more belled at the top and also a padded, rolled brim. It was made in various rich materials, and often decorated with jewels. The peak-fronted hat still continued to be favoured till about 1480, its chief difference being a crown more eccentric in height. Tall cylinder hats, with folded brims or no brim, and other shapes are ill.u.s.trated. The variety is so great through this period that it is well to study the vagaries of fashion which I have ill.u.s.trated in sequence as far as possible; they were mostly used till about the last quarter of this century, when the low-crowned flat hat with turned-up brim began to secure the fashion. This was generally worn tilted on one side and often over a scarlet skull-cap. A large bunch of plumes came in with this hat, set up from the front, curving backwards, and giving a very grand effect: with most of the tall hats the feather was set at the back.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 30.--Fifteenth century.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 31.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 32.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]

The notable change in the tunic, which was worn both very short and to the ground, was the arrangement of folds to the back and front, gathered to a =V= shape at the waist. The hanging sleeve began to go out of favour after the middle of the century, but the sleeve or cuff covering the hand was continued till the end of this century.

A sleeve, full at the shoulder, is found, and short, round, padded sleeves came in, worn over a close-fitting sleeve. This short sleeve became raised on the shoulder, and was cut or looped up the outer side: a long loose outer sleeve is also seen in conjunction with these short ones. A very short jacket is notable, of a plain square shape, with a plain sleeve on the left arm and a hanging sleeve on the right to the knee. The tight-fitting jerkin, laced down the front, was worn with this as with most other coats.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 33.--End of fifteenth century.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 34.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate VIIIa--

(_a_) Suit of Embroidered Silk. 1610-30.

(_b_) Three Sword Hangers Embroidered in Gold. Charles II.

(_c_) Braided Suit. 1670-90.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 35.--Fifteenth-century Shoes and Clogs.]

The high collar to the throat had gone out for a collar opened in front.

Very short and very long "chasubles" were worn with or without sleeves which were gathered high and full at the shoulders. The sleeves were now sometimes slit open at the back and held with several ties, as linen sleeves are now shown with these.

Parti-coloured tights were not so much favoured through this period, but a decorated thigh, or part of the thigh and knee, was a favourite method of enrichment.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 36.]

A long coat came in at the later part of this time, with a deep =V=-shaped collar meeting at the waist; it was also cut into a square shape at the shoulders, as in Fig. 43 (see p. 119). A loose bell-shaped sleeve usually went with this, often opened in the front of the upper arm. A short square cape is at times seen in conjunction with this. A low square or round neck shape came in during the last quarter of this century, filled in with a fine gathered lawn and a tight-fitting coat with a pleated skirt and full padded sleeves, or a tight sleeve with a full puff or spherical upper part.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 37.

Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, second half of 15th century.

Nos. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, variety of shapes from 1490 to 1630.]